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Actinidia: growing an ornamental vine on the site. Planting, care and use in landscape design

Actinidia kolomikta or Amur gooseberry are much more hardy. This liana winters well even in Siberian conditions. Its fruits weigh from 2 to 5 g and have an excellent taste.

For a long time, Amur gooseberries were cultivated only on Far East, but with the development of new varieties it spread throughout the country.

It is quite easy to purchase actinidia seedlings in specialized stores or at garden fairs. When choosing them, pay special attention to root system: a plant with weak, overdried or damaged roots may not take root when planted.

Actinidia, or Amur gooseberry, is a dioecious plant; for its successful fruiting, simultaneous planting of vines of different sexes is necessary. Main hallmark The female plant has solitary flowers. Male specimens are characterized by raceme-shaped inflorescences.

It is almost impossible to determine the sex of actinidia before flowering, so it is advisable to buy planting material from trusted suppliers.

To pollinate 5 female plants you will need at least 2 male plants.

Find out how to plan 6 acres in a dacha.

Protection from diseases and pests

Young plants secrete essential oils that attract cats. They peel off the bark, which has an extremely negative effect on the growth of the vine. For protection, actinidia is fenced with a low mesh fence. After fruiting begins, cats lose interest in the plant and the fence can be removed.

In the conditions of the middle zone, actinidia kolomikta is often affected by fungal diseases. Their main symptom is the appearance of a whitish coating on inside leaves. Infected shoots are cut out and burned, and the plant is treated with any fungicidal preparation.

Varieties

The first breeder of Amur gooseberries was I.V. Michurin. He believed that this plant was worthy of wide distribution in the gardens of the Middle Zone and Siberia. Currently, several dozen high-yielding varieties of Actinidia kolomikta have been developed. The most famous among them are:

  • Waffle- high-yielding variety. Sweet and sour berries ripen in mid-August.
  • Grape– the berries ripen in early August and have a pronounced apple aroma.
  • Gourmand– large berries weighing about 5 g ripen in mid-August.
  • Clara Zetkin– large berries, weighing up to 6 g. The variety is resistant to major fungal diseases.
  • Leningradskaya– the variety was bred for cultivation in the North-Western region of Russia. Fruits weigh about 6 g.

For pollination of female plants, male varieties Komandir and Adam are used.

The varieties listed above are shown in the photo:

Actinidia, which is also called “northern kiwi”, because. to taste - this is ripe kiwi in pure form, is a perennial tree-like vine, which is characterized by sufficient endurance and unpretentiousness, however, only if it is initially planted correctly.

There is no point in being afraid to plant actinidia in Middle lane(Moscow region). She will be able to grow well and overwinter even in Siberia. Moreover, Actinidia species Kolomikta will not even need to be covered.

Although the plant is exotic, it is not tropical and grows not only in the South(like kiwi).

Before planting actinidia on your summer cottage, you should familiarize yourself with its varieties, as well as correctly select and prepare a place for its planting and further cultivation. Let's find out!

When to plant actinidia in spring and autumn, in what month: optimal timing

Actinidia can be planted in the ground all year round(even in summer), especially if you purchase a seedling in a container (with a closed root system).

Planting dates in spring

As for the timing of spring planting of a seedling with an open root system (not in a pot), it must be done before the leaves bloom, i.e. until the buds have opened and the plant is still sleeping.

Planting in autumn

Autumn planting of actinidia seedlings in open ground is carried out in September-October, during the leaf fall period, i.e. in the middle zone earlier, in the south - later. But it is strictly necessary 2-4 weeks before the first stable frost. This time is enough for the vine to take root in a new place and prepare for wintering.

In Siberia, it is better to plant actinidia in spring rather than autumn.

When to replant

Accordingly, it can be replanted both in early spring, before the leaves bloom, and in the fall, with leaf fall, in other words, similar to planting a seedling with an open root system.

According to the lunar calendar in 2019

This can help you choose the optimal date for planting actinidia seedlings in open ground. Lunar calendar.

So, favorable days for planting actinidia in 2019, according to the Lunar calendar, are:

  • in April - 11-17; 21-26.

Yes, this is not a mistake! Saplings of fruit and berry crops, according to the Lunar calendar, it is recommended to plant in spring only in April.

  • in September - 17-24, 30;
  • in October - 2-4, 12, 13, 21-25, 30, 31.

Of course, it is not always possible to get to the dacha exactly in favorable days, so the main thing is not to land in unfavorable times.

Unfavorable days, according to the Lunar calendar for 2019, The dates for planting actinidia seedlings are:

  • in March - 6, 7, 21;
  • in April - 5, 19;
  • in May - 5, 19;
  • in June - 3, 4, 17;
  • in July - 2, 3, 17;
  • in August - 15, 16, 30, 31;
  • in September - 14, 15, 28, 29;
  • in October - 14, 28;
  • in November - 12, 13, 26,27.

According to lunar calendar, from the magazine “1000 tips for a summer resident.”

How to plant actinidia correctly in spring

Selection and purchase of quality seedlings

If you want to buy high-quality and varietal plants of the desired sex, then seedlings should be purchased only from specialized garden centers or nurseries, or from trusted sellers who are responsible for their products.

Optimal purchase seedlings 2-3 years old - they take root much better than annuals or older specimens.

Kolomikta or Arguta: choose the type

Kolomikta:

  • The plant is very light and relatively fast-growing (can reach a height of 10-15 meters).
  • The leaves are more delicate and soft, and of male plants; by August they turn white or white-pink (but only if grown in the sun), and the female ones are usually simple and green.

Interesting! However, today variegation is no longer an exclusive feature of only male forms Actinidia Kolomikta. Some female varieties also have pronounced variegation.

Moreover, as mentioned earlier, in certain conditions (in the shade) not all male plants have variegation (only in the sun).

Variegated varieties of Kolomikta are ideal for landscaping to increase decorativeness.

  • Capable of bearing fruit already in 2-3 years of life (but in cool conditions, more often in 4-5 years).
  • It tastes sweet, but without a strong aroma.
  • The berries are smaller (up to 6-10 g) and crumble.
  • The fruits ripen in September, sometimes earlier - at the end of August (blooms in early June).
  • Kolomikta is a more frost-resistant species than Arguta.

Distinctive Features and characteristics of actinidia Arguta:

  • It begins to bear fruit only in 3-4 years (in cold northern regions, most often only in 5-9 years).
  • The liana is heavier and more powerful, it grows “brutally” quickly (it grows up to 20-30 meters).
  • The leaves are dense and smooth (hard and glossy), simple green in both male and female plants.

Therefore, it is ideal to use Arguta for landscaping gazebos and arches in order to shade them from sunlight and moisture (protection from rain).

  • The berries are larger (from 8-12 to 20 grams), have a very rich taste, even better than kiwi (somewhat reminiscent of kiwi, feijoa and gooseberries mixed together).
  • The berries do not fall on their own (they do not crumble).

  • They ripen in late September-early October (begins to bloom in late June-early July).They become soft, which means you can remove them).

They can withstand light frosts, but if there is a threat of severe frosts, it is better to pick the berries hard - ripen well at home.

Video: actinidia Kolomikta and Arguta

Landing location

Choice suitable place for planting actinidia - this is one of the most important factors successful cultivation of vines.

The fact is that this plant is not only picky about the planting site, but also very fast-growing (it has truly powerful growth): in a matter of months it will envelop all the supports, trees and buildings surrounding it.

All climbing plants (lianas), especially actinidia, love to be the roots were in the shade(because they have a superficial root system). At the same time vines should be in the sun(they will reach out to him themselves).

If the place chosen is relatively sunny, then at first you will need to shade the lower part of the vine, for example, using a covering material that does not allow ultraviolet rays to pass through (put a frame and stretch it around the perimeter).

Respectively, optimal place for planting actinidia will be north, west or east side house, gazebo or other building. Only do not plant on the south side, otherwise the scorching sun will constantly dry out the surface root system of the plant and it will suffer.

By the way! Actinidia does not produce shoots, so it can be planted along the foundation and blind area.

Actinidia looks very beautiful on the arches.

Also a plant does not tolerate stagnation of moisture, which means it should not be planted in lowlands where rainwater accumulates. In this case, groundwater in the area should lie no closer than 1.5 meters to the soil surface.

When choosing a place, naturally, you should make sure that the plants do not interfere with each other. Over time, the liana will grow greatly and can simply entwine and strangle a neighboring bush or branches of a fruit tree.

Regarding planting schemes, then actinidia are planted at a distance of about 1-2 meters from each other (colomikts are closer, arguts are further away).

Pollination

The actinidia plant is dioecious (like sea buckthorn), therefore, if you want your vines to bear fruit, then you need to plant 3-5 female plants and 1 male.

Moreover, it should be taken into account that they do not have interspecific cross-pollination, and if you plant a male plant of the Arguta species, and a female plant of the Kolomikta species, you will not get any fruit!

In other words:

  • No bees are needed for pollination (but are desirable), the main pollination is due to pollen being carried by the wind through the air (like corn).
  • If you only have a girl, even if she blooms profusely, there will be no fruit.
  • The same applies to the situation if you only have a boy - there is no point in expecting fruit without a girl.

However! Some varieties of actinidia may be bisexual, they also say “ self-pollinating", i.e. have both pistils and stamens, and pollinate themselves. But in this case, the berries will be smaller and not so sweet.

For example, the most popular variety of self-fertile Arguta is Viti-kiwi.

Kolomikta can also be self-fertile, namely the variety Doctor Szymanowski. However, in fact, it is a female plant: although there will be self-pollination, it will be up to 30%. For abundant pollination you need Male plant Kolomikty, For example, Adam varieties.

How to distinguish a male plant from a female one

First of all, sex can be determined during flowering:

  • Female plants will have flowers with pistils (which will later swell and develop into fruits) and stamens (sterile),

  • and in males - only with stamens (barren flowers).

  • As you remember, in Actinidia Kolomikta the leaves of male flowers acquire color (in the sun), however, some female varieties can also become colored.

In Arguta, it is completely impossible to determine gender in this way, because the leaves are the same.

  • It was also noticed that female plants have single flowers along their entire length, while male plants have several flowers together.

Video: actinidia - boy or girls

Suitable soil

Actinidia loves light and relatively fertile(in nature it also grows on poor soils), but the most important thing is slightly acidic soil(or at least neutral) and completely does not tolerate alkaline soils. And this means that:

  • if you are doing drainage, then under no circumstances use limestone;
  • Abundant fertilizing is unacceptable (this potassium fertilizer has an alkaline reaction);
  • Again, mulching with humus and compost is not the best idea, because... it is alkaline organic.

However, if your soil is acidic, then these fertilizers can and even should be used, because actinidia grows well in slightly acidic soils, not acidic ones.

Another thing is that if you have excessively alkaline soil, then, on the contrary, you need to acidify it so that it becomes slightly acidic.

Planting pit: dimensions and necessary fertilizers

To plant actinidia seedlings, planting holes are dug small sizes, approximately 40-60 cm in depth and width (diameter).

If you have a container seedling (in a pot), then it is simply 2-3 times larger than the container itself (earthball).

  • the top fertile layer that remains after digging a hole;
  • buckets of humus or compost (if you have non-alkaline soil);
  • river sand (for loosening the soil so that it is light);
  • acidic peat (if you need to get slightly acidic soil);
  • (100-120 grams) and potassium sulfate (60-80 grams) or even better nitroammophoska (with spring planting) or diammofoski (for autumn planting) 80-100 grams.

Important! If you add mineral fertilizer, then it must be mixed well with the soil so as not to burn the roots of the plant. Moreover, the fertilizer must be at the bottom - above the drainage, and after it there should be a 5-centimeter layer of ordinary fertile soil.

However, there is an alternative opinion. Yes, some people advise conduct an experiment and do not make a big hole. It is enough to dig a hole slightly larger than the root system in depth and width (literally 2-5 cm) and do not use any organic or mineral fertilizers(humus, compost or). According to them, you will be surprised how much a plant planted in this way will outstrip those that were planted “according to all the rules.” Moreover, what is most surprising, this applies to planting specifically on poor soils, and not on initially fertile ones. Here is a paradox, which in fact is not such (according to some gardeners).

Support (trellis)

Actinidia should only be grown on a support. Without support, it will not bloom or set fruit, i.e. fruit.

What kind of support is required for actinidia?

  • Need support proportional to the plant. Those. While the bush is small and the support is thick, you need to tie it to the support with a thin rope (twine) so that the shoots begin to curl around it (the plant gets caught).

The size of support you provide is how your actinidia will grow. Most likely even more!

  • The support can be a good strong lattice or plastic mesh - the same gazebo.

It's better to have support wooden: in this case, you won’t have to take it off for wintering (wood is a warm material).

Main - It is not advisable to use metal or stone supports.

Video: trellis for actinidia

Direct landing

Step by step instructions planting actinidia in open ground:

  • Remove the seedling from the pot and place it in the planting hole.

If you have a seedling with an open root system, then pour a mound and spread the roots down to the sides.

  • Cover with soil and compact thoroughly so that there are no voids left around the roots.

  • Water generously. Wait until the water is absorbed and the soil settles. Water again.

Good watering is needed to bring the roots into contact with the soil.

  • Add more soil.

As a result, the root collar should be at ground level, it is better even if it is slightly buried than located higher.

  • Mulch.
  • Tie it to a support (trellis).
  • Fence off animals (cats) with a net.

Video: how to plant actinidia

Caring for actinidia after planting

After planting a young seedling, you need to carefully look after it monitor and promptly untwist twisted young shoots, directing them to a support so that they do not choke each other.

Alternatively, they can also be trimmed. The main thing is not to allow the shoots to twist around themselves and each other.

Certainly, do not forget to water (the plant loves moisture, but not stagnant water), or even better right away mulch well(so that the moisture does not evaporate, since the roots are superficial).

Pay attention! Young shoots of actinidia are very fond of being nibbled by cats, so after planting the plant must be protected in some way from their encroachment, for example, using a net.

Don't forget in the fall properly prepare a young plant for winter, namely to cover.

Interesting facts about actinidia

  • Actinidia fruits unlike kiwi - hairless, not furry, while their you can eat the whole thing.
  • Need to eat not green and hard berries, but soft ones.

They collect green berries and put them at home to ripen. Then every day they sort through and select the yellowed soft berries.

  • The fruits have enough strong laxative effect.

That's why you need to eat them carefully and not in large quantities.

It's another matter if you have chronic constipation. Then actinidia berries, according to some sources, will help cope with it.

  • As mentioned earlier, actinidia attracts cats because produces the same pheromones as valerian.

The main advantages of growing actinidia:

  • Fast growth- the vine is ideal for creating a shady gazebo, weaving and covering a fence.
  • Delicious and useful fruits (especially rich in vitamin C).
  • Late maturation(you can enjoy it when there are no other berries, not counting rowan and viburnum).

Well, now you know how to properly plant actinidia on your site, so that soon (although you still have to wait) it will please you with a harvest of delicious and useful fruits, and before that I shaded your gazebo.

Video: Actinidia or Northern Kiwi - description and characteristics of species, features of planting and care

Actinidia planting material can be purchased in nurseries, at various fairs and markets. However, when buying seedlings, you need to remember a few simple rules.

1. Actinidia has a very vulnerable root system. Plants left with bare roots in the wind or heat even for 5-10 minutes may die, and those that survive have difficulty adapting after planting and are stunted for a long time. Therefore, you need to purchase seedlings with a closed root system: with a lump of earth, in a container or securely packaged in bags, and no older than 3 years.

2. Since actinidia is a dioecious crop, it is necessary to purchase both female and male plants. Otherwise you won’t get fruiting. It is recommended to plant 2 male plants for 5 female plants. It should be borne in mind that pollination of actinidia kolomikta, argut and polygam occurs only by plants of their own species. Cross-pollination is possible only between male and female female plants actinidia arguta, giralda and purpurea.

3. Before flowering external signs The sex of actinidia cannot be determined. Therefore, purchase planting material from nurseries and not from the market.

4. Seedlings grown from seeds (seedlings) may not retain varietal characteristics. It is more prudent to purchase planting material grown from cuttings. They can be distinguished by external signs. In seedlings grown by cuttings, thin young shoots grow from the lateral buds, and the stem itself has the appearance of a stump. The seedling forms the main axial shoot, growing from the apical bud.

5. Actinidia kolomikta seedlings are most often sold. They are easily distinguished by the appearance of a one-year-old woody shoot. Its color is rich, varying from tobacco, greenish-brown to reddish-brown, almost chocolate. Small, round, convex, light lenticels are clearly visible on the bark. Because of them, the shoot feels rough to the touch. In other types of actinidia, the shoots are smooth, light, greenish, sandy or brownish shades predominate.

Selecting a location

Since actinidia grow in the open penumbra of sparse forests in their natural habitat, it is advisable to choose a place with similar conditions. But on a garden plot, which is usually small, at first glance, it is simply impossible to find such a place. Therefore, let's think together about where it is best to place the purchased vines.

First of all, it is worth remembering that climbing plants we need supports on which they will grow in a vertical plane. This means that they will not take up a lot of garden space. Actinidia can be placed on trellises around the perimeter of the garden and along the walls of a house or other outbuildings. It is also suitable for creating gazebos, green canopies and hedges.

We should not forget about the decorative nature of actinidia. The vines are attractive all year round; in winter with the intricate interweaving of branches against a background of snow, in spring with the bright greenery of young foliage, during the flowering period with the delicate aroma of flowers. By mid-August, the leaves of Actinidia kolomikta, starting from the edge of the leaf blade, acquire reddish-brown shades.

ABOUT beneficial properties Actinidia fruits- Actinidia fruits: both food and medicine

The material was published in the Library of the newspaper "Gardener's World" "Garden. Vegetable garden. Flower garden", No. 12, 2010.

Photo: Maxim Minin, Rita Brilliantova

Actinidia is easy to grow. Choice suitable type and plant varieties, proper care and compliance with agricultural techniques will provide you with a guaranteed result. You will collect the fruits every year, and the decorative appearance of the climbing vines will delight summer residents all summer. Protect young shoots from cats, don’t forget about support, water and feed them on time - and enjoy the vitamin-rich berries.

Actinidia arguta or kolomikta
First of all, you need to deal with . If you don’t want to annually cut out dead shoots that couldn’t withstand frost and harsh weather, plant actinidia on your plot kolomikta . If you have the opportunity to find a secluded place for the plant, which is well warmed up by the rays of the sun, then you can try planting actinidia arguta – it is less winter-hardy, but still endures most winters without loss. Other types and varieties of actinidia are more difficult to obtain, and you don’t need them - they are more capricious to care for and less winter-hardy.

In general actinidia kolomikta more attractive for many reasons: winter hardiness, monoecy, and appearance more interesting. Actinidia leaf tips kolomikta about five days before flowering they look as if they were dipped in a can of paint - white. Then they begin to turn pink, turning crimson. During this period, the leaf consists of three colors and looks decorative in autumn.

How to choose actinidia seedlings
Nurseries usually sell two-year-old seedlings. They are 45-50 cm long and have signs of a vine - elongated and rather thin shoots. The roots are usually well developed - choose those seedlings on which they are not torn or trimmed.

Actinidia male and female
When choosing a variety in a nursery, be sure to buy both male and female specimens for, because this vine is a typical dioecious plant, like sea buckthorn, for example. On one plant, only flowers with stamens, that is, male, are formed, and on the other, only with pistils, that is, female. Both of them, planted separately, will only bloom, but will not bear fruit.

You can plant 5 female plants for one male plant, no need to worry, there will be enough pollen for all the flowers. They will be pollinated by the wind and insects, such as bees and bumblebees, which happily fly to the actinidia for nectar.

Actinidia self-fertile
In their work, breeders are trying to obtain bisexual and monoecious varieties. For example, monoecy is characteristic of actinidia kolomikta . Her male flowers are often located at the bottom of the vine, and the female flowers at the top. They are quite capable of being pollinated by their own pollen. However, the yields from such pollination are not very large, and I would still advise planting male plants too.

Actinidia propagation by cuttings
Actinidia is usually propagated by rooting green cuttings. This is a fairly simple and extremely effective process for propagating this plant. Cuttings are harvested in late May - early June. Shoots that have not yet become lignified are cut 12-15 cm long and immersed in the nutrient soil of the greenhouse, consisting of river sand, peat and humus in equal parts. The greenhouse is covered with film, the soil is constantly moistened, and the temperature in the greenhouse is maintained at a high temperature.

Under such conditions, more than 80% of the cuttings take root, but these are not yet ready-made seedlings. To plant a rooted cutting in a permanent place, it needs to be grown for another season in a bed with loose and nutritious soil. You can plant cuttings after digging them out of the greenhouse in September in the same fall. In the spring you need to apply fertilizer - nitroammophoska in the amount of 1 tbsp. l. per 1 sq. m of planted cuttings.

Preparing the planting hole
I advise planting actinidia seedlings in a permanent place in the spring, when the soil is rich in moisture, and there is a long season ahead, so that actinidia gains strength before wintering. You need to place the root system of the seedling in holes, but first you need to prepare the soil well - dig it up with a shovel full, break up the clods, and level it.

In areas where the soil is poor, before digging, it is advisable to scatter rotted manure (3-5 kg ​​per 1 sq. m) or wood ash (500-600 g per 1 sq. m) over the surface, and then dig up the soil. If you decide to do this, then it is better to apply fertilizers in the fall. In the spring, the soil will need to be dug up and leveled again.

It is recommended to make the holes 50 by 50 cm in size, but in general they should correspond to the size of the roots, so they can be larger if the roots are strong, and smaller if the roots are weak. It is advisable to pour a layer of drainage (2-3 cm) at the bottom of the hole, then approx. 2 kg (peat and humus in equal parts). Water the prepared area (half a bucket of water) and place the seedling, straightening the roots and covering them with nutritious soil.

Immediately after planting, be sure to water the plants (half a bucket of water) and mulch the surface with peat or humus.

Actinidia planting scheme
When planting seedlings, maintain a distance of 30 cm between plants and 50 cm between rows. If you plant actinidia in a row, then leave at least 3 m between the plants, because they grow actively, they can become very intertwined, and the yield will decrease.

Advice - when planting, try to deepen the root collar by 2-3 cm.
They say that this way plants develop faster and are more resistant to freezing of the root system.

Support for actinidia
About a month after planting, you will need to install the first supports - pegs on which to attach the vine, and on next year a full-fledged trellis. A simple trellis structure with a pair of pillars on the sides and three rows of wire in the center can be used as a support.

The vine is often planted near the gazebo, veranda and arch, along a hedge or fence. Well, if you build a frame in the form of some kind of figure, actinidia will cover the entire structure, and a bizarre green creature will grow on your site.

Further care for actinidia consists of regular fertilizing, watering, loosening the soil, pruning and covering for the winter.

Feeding actinidia
In spring, nitroammophoska will be a suitable fertilizer. For plants 3-4 years old, 1/2 tbsp is enough. l. of this fertilizer, diluted in water, for older vines - a whole tablespoon. I pour the solution directly under the bush.

During the flowering period I use superphosphate - 1/2 tbsp. l. under a bush. In autumn - potassium salt in the same dosage.

Watering and loosening the soil
Watering actinidia is recommended only in severe drought - if, for example, there is no rain for 3 days and it is really hot. One bucket of water in the evening will be enough.

When loosening the soil, do not forget about the weeds - they must be removed. It has long been noted that with a clean bite area and loose soil plants develop better.

Actinidia pruning
Only those vines that become impudent and extend far beyond the boundaries of the plant, often creeping right along the ground, will need to be trimmed regularly. Sanitary pruning is usually carried out at the end of February, when it is necessary to remove all broken shoots, poorly developed or thickening, growing deep into the crown. Annual shoots that grow more than a meter can be shortened by half.

Actinidia shelter for the winter
In the middle zone, I do not cover actinidia, but for the winter I add sawdust to a height of 10-15 cm around the root collar. In early spring, I remove them as soon as they have moved away from the frost.

Actinidia harvests in September. The fruits may fall off, so you shouldn’t delay harvesting - they have become soft, which means you need to pick them. It is quite possible to collect it by shaking it onto burlap. If you need to pick earlier, then place the slightly unripe berries on a newspaper in a dark place in the living room - they will arrive in 5-7 days.

Actinidia is a perennial tree-like vine. In garden plots, it is grown not only for decorative purposes, although the bush looks very beautiful and is simply a godsend for creating vertical decorative compositions due to the variegated color of the leaves and the incredible beauty of the inflorescences. In addition, actinidia also produces fruits, the size and taste of which differ depending on the variety. In some varieties they are small and smell like pineapple, others are larger and slightly resemble ordinary gooseberries, and others are almost indistinguishable from hairy kiwis. However, in general the berries are very tasty and sweet.

In order to grow a strong, healthy plant, and also get a harvest from it, it is necessary to feed actinidia in a timely manner, it is especially important to do this in the spring. The culture responds well to the application of both organic and mineral fertilizers.

Organic fertilizers

In spring it needs organic matter to activate growth processes. The first feeding should be done in early April, when the buds begin to actively bloom. Rotted manure must be spread around the bush; the layer thickness must be at least 5 cm. Manure will provide actinidia with the necessary amount of nitrogen, and will also serve as mulch. Weeds do not grow very readily under it, but moisture in the soil remains longer.

The second time you need to add organic matter after flowering has ended. Actinidia responds well to fertilizing based on waste from birds and cattle. Under one adult bush you will need to pour at least 2 buckets of working solution. Its concentration depends on what served as the basis for the infusion:

  • chicken manure – dilute in a ratio of 1:20;
  • – for 1 part of infusion 10 parts of water.

During the season it is enough to feed actinidia twice. When growing vines on poor soils, in order to achieve an increase in yield, additional application of complex mineral preparations will be required.

Mineral supplements

To stimulate the formation of young shoots, increase productivity, as well as winter hardiness of actinidia, in the spring it is necessary to carry out two mineral fertilizings. At the end of March - beginning of April, add per 1 sq. m. area where the liana grows:

  • 35 g of nitrogen fertilizers;
  • 20 g of preparations containing potassium and phosphorus.

Actinidia does not tolerate lime and fertilizers containing chlorine.

The second time such mineral fertilizer will need to be applied during the fruit set phase, and the proportions of the preparations must be halved.

Atinidia: planting and caring for vines, video

 


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