Modern cottages and private houses require the presence of 2 or more floors, and the topmost of them can be either residential or non-residential premises. In any case, a ladder is required.

Make your own reliable interfloor or attic staircase made of concrete or metal structures is quite heavy, which cannot be said about wood.

Even a novice master can assemble it.

From this article you will learn what types of wooden stairs there are, what are their differences, what material is used to make the spans. In addition, each of you will be able to make a wooden staircase to the second floor yourself - in the article we will provide approximate calculations and photos.

Types and types of structures

There are several species wooden staircase designs:

• Marching stairs. Easy to manufacture and convenient to use, but require large area premises. A flight of stairs can be placed along the wall or mounted in the middle of the room;
• . Usually located in limited space. Since the structure's capacity is very small, it is better to move through it one at a time. A spiral staircase (if you build it yourself) will cost much less than other structures, and will last about the same;
• Combined stairs. Can be used in the construction of a private house, if the layout allows. Most often, flight stairs are made with a screw element.

Types of structures wooden stairs are the following:

• Stairs on pain– the steps are attached to huge hanging bolts (balusters);
• stairs on the bowstrings– the flight of stairs is mounted to a beam with special cutouts on inside end-to-end;
• stairs on stringers. Stringer is an inclined beam on top of which steps are attached.

What kind of wood can a staircase be made from?

Material selection for depends on the preferences of the owner of the house or apartment, the characteristics of the tree and the cost of it. Various breeds have their advantages and disadvantages:

1. Maple. A staircase made from this type will be the strongest and most durable. Color – light brown. The disadvantage of a maple staircase is its high price.
2. Larch. The color of the structure is golden yellow or dark yellow with brown veins. Great tolerates exposure to external factors. A larch staircase will be strong and solid.
3. Oak. The peculiarity of oak stairs is that the older they are, the darker the shade.
4. Spruce. The most popular material due to its low cost. Spruce wood has a uniform structure and light shade.
5. Pine. Due to the low density of wood, it is very easy to process. An additional advantage of pine is low cost material. The disadvantage of a pine staircase is its short service life. It is best to install a pine staircase in the country house where it will be used seasonally.

Pros and cons of wooden stairs

Wooden stairs have their advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at them.

Positive aspects:

• Low cost of building materials;
• environmental friendliness of wood;
• ease of processing;
• possibility of DIY installation;
• light weight;
• aesthetic appearance.

Disadvantages of wood:

• Low strength compared to concrete or metal stairs;
• tree - natural material and it tends to deteriorate and change. Therefore, after some time, preventative work may be necessary;
• fire hazard of the material.

Materials for making stairs

For installation of stairs to the second floor You will need:

• Bars for steps;
• beams for risers (leg supports);
• boards;
• beams width 30 - 40 mm;
• beam for stringer – 50*240 mm;
• screws, self-tapping screws;
• wood glue;
• building level, square, tape measure;
• handrails and, but it is better to purchase them at a hardware store.

Staircase calculations

If you decide to make a wooden staircase with your own hands, think over the nuances of the design: determine its dimensions, calculate the number of steps and supports. It is important to initially imagine what function the staircase will perform: connecting the floors or leading to the top of the attic. (You can read information about insulating the attic yourself).

Draw diagram It’s also easy to do it yourself. Most often they make straight staircase. It connects the first floor with the second, and reaches a height of several meters. For convenience, the angle of inclination of the structure should be equal to the value in 30-40 degrees.

Pay attention! Wooden houses experience significant shrinkage in the first two years after construction, so the angle of inclination may change.

So, for your convenience, we will provide basic calculations elements of the staircase (using the example of a wooden one) standard designs:

• Base length - 3.5-4 m;
• flight of stairs - 2.5 m;
• width of steps – 30 cm;
• height of steps – 15-20 cm.

Necessary calculations

1. 1. We define height of the stairs. Average value from ceiling to floor – 250 cm. To this value you need to add the thickness of the interfloor overlap. Its average 35 cm. We get:
      250+35=285 cm

1. 1. calculate number of steps: divide the height of the stairs by the height of the steps. It is better to take the last value (i.e. the height of the steps) as average - 17 cm. We get:
      285 cm/17 cm =16.76

The value is rounded up. Total we get 17 steps.

1. 1. define step width. It is believed that the permissible tread width (flat facing part of the step) can range from 22-40 cm. In Russian practice, to calculate the width of the step and rise (risers), the formula is used: a + b = 47 cm, Where A- riser height, b- step width. We get:
      47-16.67=30.3 cm

The value is rounded to 30 cm. - this is the width of the step.

1. 1. The width of the flight of stairs must be a multiple of the width of the step. In our case, this value can be equal to 60 cm, 90 cm, 120 cm. etc.
   2. calculate length of stairs. The length of the staircase is equal to the product of the number of steps and their width. We get:
      17*30= 480 cm

• calculate stringer length. We make calculations according to the Pythagorean theorem: the sum of the squares of the legs is equal to the square of the hypotenuse. That is A²+B²=C². In this formula:
  A– height of the stringer,
  IN– length of flight of stairs,
  WITH– stringer length. We get:

230400 + 81225 = 311625
The root of this number is 558.23 cm. Can be rounded to 560 cm.

Advice! If it is difficult to make geometric calculations, you can draw a staircase on paper on an appropriate scale and measure the angle and length of the base.

Assembling the stairs

Before you begin assembling the stairs to the second floor, you need to decide place for installing stringers(supporting structure of a flight of stairs). Installation stairs (in our case, a marching structure) includes several stages:

1. 1. Installation of stringers. We fasten the lower part of the stringer with a support beam. From above we cut the stringer into the ceiling beam.

1. grinding stairs, coating with a protective composition.
2. varnishing And painting. To do this, use a roller or brush. Paint over need a ladder in 2-3 layers, each subsequent layer must be applied after some time so that the previous layer has time to dry.

Cost of a finished staircase

Those who decided to buy ready wooden staircase or make it order, should be aware that the cost will depend on the complexity of the design and the type of wood.

For example, the most common design of a flight of stairs with a turn 90 degrees pine will cost 60-80000 rub.., from birch – 100,000 rub..,made of oak – 150,000 rub..

You can order a wooden staircase in a specialized store or on company websites. Manufacturing On average it takes up stairs 5-10 working days.

It’s up to you to make a wooden staircase yourself or order it from specialists. Self-installation It's not a quick process, but it has its advantages. First of all, this saving cash and visual quality assessment building materials.

This is how to make a wooden staircase with your own hands video.

The construction of a two- or three-story cottage requires the presence of stairs. Without it, access to the basement, underground garage, or attic space will be problematic.
It is important not to forget that stairs are complex engineering structure. Its design and construction cannot be carried out on a residual basis. The location, material, and design are determined in advance. Wooden staircase on the second floor - the most nice option for your choice.

Private households are characterized by the use of two main types of staircases: flight and spiral. Marching - with one or several spans separated by intermediate platforms. Screw ones are considered the most effective, but also the most expensive. It is recommended to involve specialists with relevant experience in their construction and calculation of the number and width of steps.

In this article we will look in more detail at all popular types of stairs, their advantages and disadvantages. But you need to start with choosing wood:

• maple looks good, varnishing will emphasize the structure. But when bending, cracks and breaks will appear on the surface;
• beech is considered one of the most durable options, but is not intended for use in conditions of high constant humidity;
• oak is both durable and beautiful. The only drawback is the high price;
• larch and pine - budget options. Allowed for use subject to antiseptic treatment against rot and bugs.

How to make a wooden spiral staircase to the second floor with your own hands

If, in accordance with the house plan, a minimum space is allocated for the placement of interfloor passages, a screw modification will be indispensable. It can be mounted either in the center of a room, hall or corridor, or against a wall.

Types of spiral staircases

There are four main types depending on the method of fastening the steps:

• directly to the central supporting column, assembled from metal parts, lined with brick or stone;
• treads are placed on top of each other. Their intersection becomes a supporting column;
• with attachment to stringers or bowstring. The central support may be absent or used as an additional element to provide strength. Railings and railings are used as a connecting link;
• In addition to the stringer or central post, the steps are attached to the wall.

Advantages of a spiral staircase

The first thing to mention is its elegant appearance. The number of design and finishing options is endless: from Gothic and wrought iron railings to high-tech and postmodernism. There is no feeling of “heaviness”; the light “transparent” design does not distract attention, while at the same time visually “increasing” the height of the ceilings.

Don't forget about saving space. Not everyone has the opportunity to allocate half of the floor for staircase placement. A modern technologies and materials make it possible not to spend half a fortune on organizing transitions from floor to floor.

Important points during construction

A spiral staircase is built subject to the following criteria:

• the distance between floors or intermediate platforms is at least 2 meters;
• For the manufacture of the central support, a pipe with a wall thickness of 4 mm or more is used. Column diameter - 50-60 mm or more;
• at the support, the depth of the steps is no less than 10 cm, at the railing - 40 cm. For rectangular-shaped treads, the optimal depth is 20 cm or more. For one full revolution (3600) at least 12 steps up to 1 meter wide are required. It is quite difficult for two people to move at the same time, not to mention lifting or lowering furniture.

You can build a spiral staircase yourself. But calculating the number of treads, their height and rotation requires special knowledge. To avoid mistakes and subsequent rework, it is better to contact specialists, at least at the design stage. If you decide to go through all the stages yourself, listen to the following tips:

• The optimal material is beech or oak wood. It has good strength and can withstand decades of use;
• There should be no sharp edges or jagged edges. After sanding and sanding, all wooden parts are coated with parquet varnish;
• The first baluster is not attached to the first step, but to the floor nearby for greater structural strength.

Straight wooden staircase to the second floor

A one-flight flight is the simplest option for organizing movement around the house. It has both advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include:

1. simplicity of design, ease of movement and a minimum of preliminary calculations. Even with little experience, but with due diligence, the manufacture and installation of stringers can be completed in a few days;
2. It is enough to make a sample of the tread and riser, and then cut out all the details from them;
3. if a space along the wall is chosen for placement, then it is advisable to attach one edge of the steps to a brick or concrete partition to increase strength.

There is also a drawback to be noted. IN ideal the slope ranges from 26-450, and the stairs take up a lot of space. You will have to decide where to place it and what to do with the space under the stairs.

Design parameters

The design stage should not be neglected even if we're talking about about 2-3 steps. The project helps to decide on appearance, and with total length and other technical characteristics. Regardless of the owner’s wishes regarding the design, the SNiP requirements remain the same for all modifications of staircases:

• step height - no more than 20 cm. Both the riser and the tread itself are taken into account;
• depth - at least 25-30 cm;
• When calculating the width, they are guided by the dimensions doorways. The standard prescribes that a flight of stairs designed to carry one person should not be narrower than 80 cm;
• The boards selected are well-dried, at least 4 cm thick, without knots, cracks, or other defects that can lead to deformation. If you order the production of wooden parts in a factory, make sure that they are of the same size, sanded, cleaned and polished.

Why do you need a layout?

Construction work begins with a plywood model. Don't give it up if you lack experience. Better to spend a few additional days, but avoid fatal mistakes.

Exact copies of stringers, risers and treads are cut out of plywood. They are assembled and “fitted on” at the installation site. The dimensions, ease of use, and placement of balusters under the railings are specified. It is quite possible that you will have to add/reduce the number of steps, or adjust the height of the lowest one.

The layout is ready, let's move on to working on the original

If you are completely satisfied with the plywood copy, move on to working with the boards. You should not immediately install stringers or bowstrings in a permanent location. Assembly is carried out on the floor. First, the risers are installed, then the treads. The heads of fasteners (nails or wood screws) should not protrude above the surface.

For fastening to the floor and stairwell, special mounting loops or parts are used that are installed in the ceilings during the construction of the main building.

Upon completion of work on the steps, proceed to installing railings: made of wood, metal, profile pipe. A specific option is selected taking into account the general style, wall material, and floor. Experts recommend placing one baluster on each tread. The presence of crossbars is individual. It is advisable to install them if there are small children in the house, or the railings are made of metal. On wooden structure crossbars are unnecessary.

Stairs with a 90 degree turn

If the space for placing a flight of stairs is limited or the structure has more than 10-12 steps, experts recommend making an intermediate platform with a rotation of 90 or 180 degrees, mounted into the walls of the house on two or three sides.

Calculations of the number and width of treads are carried out in the same way as for a standard single-flight span with a few exceptions. Does the turntable consist of winder steps? They are designed like a spiral staircase. In the very bottleneck depth - at least 10 cm, at the widest - 40 cm.

To facilitate calculations, graph paper is used. On it, in compliance with scale, the upper and lower spans, the transition platform are drawn, and the winder steps are laid out. Along the midline, their depth is at least 20 cm. Otherwise, going up/down will be problematic. Do you critically evaluate your own drawing abilities? Refer to special calculation programs distributed free of charge.

If the turntable does not provide for the use of winder steps, a frame corresponding to the width of the flights is prepared. To fasten the platform frame the following are used:

• one or two walls of the house;
• general stringer;
• support pillars. They are subsequently used as a base for a built-in wardrobe in the under-staircase space.

For reliability, it is recommended to make a rough version from plywood or scrap planks. A turning staircase is a complex design. It is almost impossible to correct errors. On a plywood model it is easier to adjust the number of steps or the angle of rotation if there are inaccuracies in the calculations.

Installation of stairs with a 90 degree turn

• The stringer is attached to the wall with anchor bolts;
• support pillars are installed if they are provided for in the project. They can be concreted into the floor and additionally reinforced with mounting loops and bolts;
• An external stringer is attached to the supporting pillars. At each stage, slopes and the presence/absence of deviations from the plan are carefully checked;
• On stringers or bowstrings, first the risers are attached to the grooves, then the treads. For greater strength, it is recommended to glue all seams;
• installation of the upper span ends with the installation of winder steps. The presence of gaps between structural parts is unacceptable;
• railings and balusters are installed last.

DIY wooden staircase to the second floor with a 180 turn

In a private house, there are often situations when there is no space for placing a straight staircase, and it is undesirable to build a spiral staircase. For example, elderly people live in the building. In this case, you should pay attention to modifications with a rotation of 1800, made using one of two technologies:

• two flights “meet” on an intermediate interfloor platform, equal in width to the spans plus an additional gap separating them. The site can be capital ( reinforced concrete slab) or wooden on supports or mounted in the wall. For each march a standard calculation is performed;
• in place of the platform there are winder steps that form a turn. The option is more difficult to manufacture, but more ergonomic. When ascending/descending, you do not have to change the pace of movement. But, it is necessary to take into account that the winder treads have a trapezoidal shape. They are more difficult to navigate than standard rectangular ones.

Project development

projections of the stairs are drawn vertically and horizontally on a sheet of graph paper, observing the scale;

• the steps of the upper and lower flights are marked taking into account the requirements of SNiP for height, depth, width;
• They do the same with outsiders. In the simplest case there will be four. But this option may be inconvenient if the site is large. Experts also recommend making winders not only the steps directly on the site, but also part of the nearest marching ones to make the movement more comfortable;
• the basis of the entire composition is a central support column with a cross-section of 10 x 10 cm or more. Both the stringers of the spans and the winder steps in the narrow part are attached to it.

Installation of stairs with a 180 degree rotation

Preparing stringers with grooves for treads: two shorter ones and four longer ones. The short ones reach the support pillar, the long ones reach the wall behind the transition area. The lower span stringers are secured with anchor bolts to the first floor floor support beam. In the upper part - either to a pillar or to a wall. The stringers of the upper span are attached to the ceiling, pillar and wall;

• for treads, risers (if any), and transition area, a board with a thickness of 4 cm or more is used without knots or nicks that can damage the structure;
• All parts are cut out according to the template and carefully polished. At the initial stage, risers are installed, then treads. For fixing, you need flat head screws and glue. It is possible to replace screws with dowels;
• transition steps are installed. The wide edge is attached to the wall, the narrow part is attached to the support post;
• on last stage railings are installed. Holes are drilled in the steps. For fastening, bolts at least 10 cm long or wooden pins are used. The lower (topmost) baluster is located on the floor, even before the first step.

Outdoor wooden staircase to the second floor

The construction of a wooden staircase outdoors is practically no different in technology from the process indoors. The type of structure is selected, the number of steps and the parameters of the transition platform are calculated. There are also nuances:

• wood does not like moisture. There are several ways to avoid excessive water absorption and rapid destruction, for example, placing it under a canopy. It is necessary to choose wood types that are resistant to water, such as oak or larch. But at the same time the project becomes significantly more expensive. You can make railings and treads from wood, and use metal or reinforced concrete for supporting structures;
• a strip or belt is installed under the lower supports. Otherwise, soil subsidence is inevitable. Mounting loops are attached to the ends of the stringers and then embedded in concrete. This will make the design more reliable.

How to paint a wooden staircase

The staircase is ready, railings are installed, steps are lined, mounted decorative panels and strips masking stringers and fasteners. It's time to move on to painting or varnishing.

Industry offers different options paint solutions. Each of them deserves separate consideration.

Alkyd paints

• dry quickly;
• the composition includes special substances with an antiseptic effect to protect against insects and putrefactive processes;
• approved for indoor use, non-toxic, do not cause an allergic reaction;
• wide range of colors.

Acrylic paints

• drying time is minimal;
• no unpleasant odors;
• dyes do not change color and saturation when exposed to sunlight or artificial light;
• the color palette can satisfy the most sophisticated taste.

Oil paints

• minimum cost;
• the structure of the wood is not preserved when painted, the surface does not “breathe”;
• if the stairs are used intensively, it will be necessary to periodically re-paint them;
• takes a long time to dry while maintaining an unpleasant, pungent odor.

Enamel paints

• ideal for indoor work as they dry very quickly;
• the composition does not contain toxins or elements that give a strong odor;
• in the process of work it is necessary to constant mode ventilate the room. It is advisable not to work during periods of rain or high humidity.

Lucky

• most of them are not recommended for use outdoors, as they cannot withstand low temperatures;
• dry quickly;
• preserve and emphasize the structure of the tree;
• the surface is smooth (provided that at least 3 layers are applied) and shiny;
• It is better to choose alcohol-based options;
• The “yacht” modification cannot be used for interior decoration due to the high content of toxic substances and unpleasant odor, persisting for a long time.

stain

• used both as an independent means for wood processing and as a base for paint;
• preserves and emphasizes the structure of the original material, has fire-retardant properties, especially in combination with layers of polish.

Experts say that the best option Alkyd paints are used for painting indoor stairs. For greater effect, the top is coated with varnish.

Painting options

The stairs are painted in one of two ways:

• before installation. Each element is painted separately. Assembly work begins after complete drying. The main difficulty in this case is not to damage the layer of paint or varnish during the assembly process or drilling holes;
• after installation. There are options here. If the second floor is residential, and there is only one staircase, paint one step at a time. After the first “batch” dries, they move on to the second.

If it is possible not to use the second floor yet, or an additional descent is provided, painting is carried out without skipping. This option is preferable, since there will be no different shades.

Regardless of the chosen dyeing method, you must add at least 5 hours to the time specified by the manufacturer. The direction of the strokes is along the grain of the wood.

Subtleties of painting pine stairs

Pine boards require special handling. Resin is actively released on their surface. If it is not eliminated before painting, the paint will lie unevenly, will not penetrate deep into the structure, and will darken in places over time. Removing resin is a mandatory stage of work.

For degumming, a 25% acetone solution is used. It is applied to all surfaces, followed by wiping with a damp cloth. Apply paint or varnish after complete drying. If there is too much resin in certain areas, it is recommended to cut them out and putty the surface to level it.

General technology for painting wooden stairs

• cleaning the surface from debris, construction dust, shavings;
• grinding, priming of chips, cracks, scratches;
• after the soil has dried, a new sanding cycle is carried out to remove debris;
• Ideally, surfaces are primed again 24 hours after initial treatment. But this only applies to coloring. The wood is not primed for varnish;
• paint or varnish is applied in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. It is not recommended to choose days that are too hot or rainy for work;
• there should be no dripping drops on the surface during the painting process;
• The varnish is applied in 3-5 layers.

When choosing a color, you need to focus on your own preferences, the style of the room, and the design solution of the house. If steps or balusters of several colors are planned, it is better to paint them before the assembly process.

Building a staircase to the second floor with your own hands is a difficult task, but not hopeless. With a little effort, everything is done in a few days.

A staircase is a rather complex and very important design, but every home craftsman with at least minimal experience working with wood can make it. The main thing is to first familiarize yourself with the basic rules, requirements and nuances of its manufacture, which will be discussed further.

Design, or how to make a staircase comfortable and safe

It is necessary to decide on the design of the future staircase. It can be of the following types:

• spiral - the steps of such a staircase are winders (rotary), located around one axis. The main advantage of the screw design is its compactness. The disadvantages include inconvenience of use and complexity of manufacture. Therefore, if you are going to make a staircase for the first time, it is better to abandon the screw design;
• marching - has smooth flights of stairs (one or several), as a result of which it is much more convenient to use. True, the flight of stairs takes up a lot of space.

Next, we’ll look at how wooden flight stairs are made, and we’ll start with calculations and design. To make the structure comfortable and safe, when performing calculations, it is necessary to take into account the following rules and requirements for it:

• steps cannot be made of different widths and heights - this is one of the main rules, failure to comply with which can lead to injury;
• steps cannot be made below 160 mm and above 190 mm;
• the step should not be narrower than 220 mm and wider than 330 mm;
• the width of the march should not be less than 900–1000 mm;
• the number of steps must be odd, which will allow you to start and finish moving up the stairs with the same foot;
• for the stairs to be comfortable, the flights must have 11-15 steps;
• between the flight and the ceiling (the ceiling of the second floor) the distance must be at least 2 m, however, this rule applies more to the size of the opening, and not to the design of the staircase itself.

We begin the design calculation by measuring the height between the floor of the first and the floor of the second floor. Then you must measure the width and length of the site.

For example, the ceiling height is 2500 mm. Let's take the average - 170 mm. To count the number of steps in a flight, you need to divide the total height by the height of the steps. The result will be 2500/170=14.7. So the number of steps should be an integer, let’s adjust their height – 2500/15=166 mm. Please note that in fact the march will have not 15, but 14 steps, since the function of the last step will be performed by the ceiling of the second floor.

Now you need to decide on the width of the treads. To do this, we will use the following formula: step height, tread width = 430–450 mm. As a result, we get 450-166 = 284 mm, round it up and get 280 mm.

If necessary, adjust the height of the step or its width, within the acceptable values, so that the design matches the dimensions of the platform. The only thing is, when changing one parameter, recalculate the other parameters of the ladder, since they are interrelated.

If you do not have space for a staircase more than four meters long, it can be divided into two flights. They should be separated by a landing. The depth of the latter is always equal to the width of the span.

You can save even more space by using turning steps instead of a landing. But in this case, the ladder becomes less convenient to use. As for the flights, they can be located L-shaped if the staircase is angular, or at an angle of 380 degrees, i.e. parallel to each other.

Finally, you need to calculate the length of the beams. Knowing the height of the stairs and the length, this can be done using the Pythagorean theorem a 2 b 2 =c 2. Our legs are the length of the staircase (the projection of the flight onto the floor) and the height of the staircase. Accordingly, we need to calculate the length of the hypotenuse.

Now you need to decide on its main design points. The fact is that there are several types of flights of stairs:

• on bowstrings - the treads are attached between the beams, while the beams (strings) themselves are even, i.e. without cutouts for steps. Therefore, to fasten the treads, grooves are milled in the face of the beams or bars are attached - supports for the treads;
• on stringers - they are distinguished by the presence of cutouts for steps, so the treads are not located between the beams, but are placed on top of them. This design provides the staircase with greater strength and also looks more attractive. But in terms of manufacturing, staircases on stringers are more complex.

Then you need to decide on the method of installing the beams. If the staircase has one flight, then it will not need supports: the flight rests on the floor and ceiling of the second floor. Double-flight stairs require the installation of support pillars on which the upper part of the lower flight, the landing and the lower part of the upper flight rest. Each bowstring or stringer requires its own support. The exception is beams located near the wall - they can be fixed to the wall without supports.

When you have decided on all the main points of the staircase, draw the design on paper, maybe even schematically, and indicate the dimensions of all the elements of the staircase in millimeters.

We manufacture staircase parts - calculation details

Start by cutting the boards to the length of the stringers. Then you need to mark the stringer - this is the most difficult and responsible operation. We begin marking by marking the points from which the cuts for the steps will be made. You can determine the distance between the cutouts on the stringer using the same Pythagorean theorem. Since the legs are the width of the tread and the height of the step, the distance between the edges of the steps in our case is 280 2 166 2 = 105956. We take the square root and get 325 mm.

Thus, dots should be applied to the edge of the future stringer in increments of 325 mm. Then you need to use a square and draw tread and riser lines through the resulting points, which form a right angle. The result should be rectangles, the hypotenuse of which is the edge of the stringer, and their vertices, respectively, are points located on the edge with a pitch of 325 mm.

The marking of bowstrings is done in the same way. Then bars under the steps are attached to it or grooves are milled.

Now you need to make cutouts for the steps according to the resulting markings. To do this, you can use a jigsaw or a regular hacksaw. The edges of the stringer must be cut at an angle to ensure maximum support area on the floor and beam of the landing or ceiling.

Use the resulting stringer as a template for marking the counter beam. Then make the cutouts in the same way. Using this principle, make stringers for all flights of stairs.

Then prepare racks for supports from 70x70 or even 100x100 mm timber. Their height should correspond to the height of the lower flight. To calculate it, multiply the number of steps of the first flight by their height. If the staircase is L-shaped, then you will need four racks for the landing. In this case, the landing itself will turn out to be square, as mentioned above, its width is equal to the width of the flight, most often it is 1000x1000 mm.

If the marches are parallel to each other, 8 racks will be needed. In this case, the depth of the platform should be equal to the width of the march, i.e. 1000 mm, and length 1000 1000 distance between marches.

You also need to make beams for tying the racks. You can use the same timber from which the racks themselves are made. The length of the beams is equal to the distance between the racks of the landing.

To complete the work, you need to make steps and risers. To make them, use 30x300 mm boards. The length of the treads should correspond to the width of the march or be a couple of centimeters longer so that the tread hangs slightly from the stringers. The risers are made of the same length, but their width should be less than the height of the step by the thickness of the riser, i.e. in our case – 166-30 = 136 mm.

Please note that the treads should hang over the lower steps by about 1 cm.

Assembling a staircase from ready-made parts

Now we begin the installation of the stairs. First of all, you need to apply markings to the floor and walls adjacent to the stairs. This operation requires accuracy and attention, since the quality of assembly of the entire staircase depends on this.

Then, according to the markings, you need to install the supports of the staircase opening. If the floor is concrete, you can use special glasses for these purposes that correspond to the cross-section of the racks.

The glasses are attached to the floor using dowels. Then the racks are inserted into the glasses and fixed with self-tapping screws. When installing the racks, be sure to ensure that they do not deviate from the vertical.

Tie the installed racks with horizontal beams. If you have a router, you can make a tongue and groove connection; to do this, you need to mill grooves in the racks, and make tenons in the beams for these grooves. If such a tool is not at hand, the connection can be made using steel angles and self-tapping screws. To give the structure rigidity, coat the joints of all parts with wood glue.

Now we install the stringers. If the march is adjacent to the wall, fasten the beam to it according to the markings. In a wooden house, you can use screws to attach the beam to the walls, but if the wall is brick or concrete, secure the stringer with anchors. Use fasteners in pairs, installing them 10 cm apart vertically. Make the pitch of each pair of fasteners 20–25 centimeters.

The counter stringer usually rests only on the landing post. It is advisable to secure it to the rack using the tongue and groove method and self-tapping screws. If this is not possible, use self-tapping screws and also fasten another horizontal beam under the stringer, on which it will also rest. According to this principle, stringers are installed for all flights of stairs. When installing joists, be sure to use a level to ensure that the tread cutouts are aligned opposite each other in the same horizontal plane.

Then we install the treads and risers. The treads are laid on the cutouts in the stringers and fixed with self-tapping screws. To subsequently hide the heads of the screws, drill out the holes to a depth of several millimeters.

In order not to fasten the risers with self-tapping screws, you can mill a groove in the steps above and below them. The width of the groove should correspond to the thickness of the riser. As a result, the risers will be fixed only by treads. If it is not possible to make grooves, secure the risers with self-tapping screws. When installing treads and risers, also use wood glue.

So that the space under the stairs does not go to waste, you can make a cabinet under it. To do this, you just need to install walls between the stringers and the floor, and also install doors.

Installing stair railing

Now you need to install the fence (railing). It can be anything - forged, chrome-plated, stainless steel or even glass. But as an example, let’s look at how a wooden fence is installed.

The design of a wooden railing consists of figured posts (balusters) and a handrail. Subject to availability lathe You can make curly columns yourself. If such equipment is not available, balusters can be purchased ready-made - the cost of a solid pine post starts at an average of 150 rubles per piece.

Keep in mind that you will need two types of balusters - intermediate and extreme. The latter differ in size - they are larger. In addition, you will need dowels for fastening, which can be purchased at a furniture store.

Step-by-step instructions for installing the fence are as follows:

1. 1. Mark the location of the fence: draw a straight line above the stringer on which the balusters will be installed;
2. 2. Drill holes in the treads according to the diameter of the dowels. The holes can be located in the center of the tread;
3. 3. Coat the holes with glue and hammer dowels into them;
4. 4. Drill holes in the lower end of the posts according to the diameter of the dowels, then coat the holes with glue and place the balusters on the dowels;
5. 5. Cut the intermediate balusters at an angle corresponding to the slope of the march. To do this, attach a flat board to the edge of the posts, parallel to the stringer. Along this board, cut off the edges of the posts.
6. 6. Attach the handrail to the balusters by screwing in the screws from below at an acute angle.

Finishing is the final touch

Now that the staircase is assembled, you need to finish it. First of all, the surface should be thoroughly sanded. Doing this work with your own hands is quite difficult and time-consuming, so use an angle grinder.

Then you need to fill all the cracks, cracks and screw heads. If you plan to later varnish the staircase, choose a putty that matches the color of the wood. After the putty has dried, be sure to sand it with fine sandpaper.

Now you can cover the stairs with paint and varnish material. It is best to use water-based varnish - it has good abrasion resistance, dries quickly and is odorless. The only thing is that after applying the first layer of varnish, the stairs need to be sanded again, since under the influence of moisture, the wood fibers rise, as a result of which the surface becomes rough. After this, you need to apply another 1-2 layers of varnish.

In order not to spoil the surface of the stairs, apply high-quality varnish paint brush, from which the lint does not come out.

At this point ours is ready. As you can see, in general there is really nothing super complicated in its manufacture.

A staircase is an important functional element not only for multi-story buildings, but also for houses with attics and basements. In order for the structure to be comfortable and reliable, its dimensions must correspond to SNiPs, and the material and shape must correspond to the type of structure. How to assemble the structure with your own hands and what nuances should be taken into account - read below.

Metal stairs are considered the most durable and durable. But, firstly, in order to collect them you need to have experience working with welding machine. And, secondly, the metal frame does not always fit into the interior of the room (“bare” metal stairs would be appropriate in loft, hi-tech, minimalist interiors).

The easiest way to make a structure on a metal frame with your own hands is to purchase a modular device with fasteners included, which is assembled like a construction set. The convenience and durability of this design is evidenced by numerous positive reviews on the Internet. In private wooden houses and cottages you can often find wooden stairs, which are distinguished by their spectacular appearance, reliability and lightness (which is important for wooden house). In addition, wood should also be chosen for stairs in new buildings made of timber (due to shrinkage of the material).

According to regulations fire safety, in houses with two or more storeys, metal stairs should be installed that can guarantee evacuation from the upper floors in the event of a fire.

Simple staircase shape

The shape of both metal and wooden stairs can be any: from straight structures to spiral ones. Standard straight single-flight stairs are considered the easiest to assemble with your own hands. The disadvantages of the structures include the fact that due to the angle of inclination (if the staircase is designed taking into account all SNiP) they take up quite a lot of space on the lower floors.

Therefore, in a room of limited size, two-flight structures should be placed. The advantage of such stairs is that they can be used to save space in a small space: for example, the intermediate platform can be used as a “box” for storing household equipment and tools, and under the flight itself you can place a closet or a sanitary unit.

A simple staircase in the house: basic requirements

Regardless of the material of manufacture and shape (straight or rotary), the simplest stairs are divided into the following types: with one or two stringers; open (without risers) and closed. The most comfortable and reliable designs are those with two bowstrings and risers.

In addition, for maximum safety and convenience, the design must:

1. It was designed for a load exceeding the weight of a person with an average build.
2. It had handrails and balusters with a height of at least 900 mm, located at a distance of no more than 15 cm (if there are small children in the house, then you can fence the stairs on the sides using plexiglass or mesh).
3. It was inclined at an angle of 35-45 degrees (for a staircase in a utility room, the angle of inclination may be greater).
4. It was equipped with steps with a width of 25-35 cm and a height of 15-20 cm.

In addition, a comfortable staircase should be well lit, have upper and lower frieze steps, and a passage height of at least two meters.

When designing a staircase, it should be taken into account that the height of the passage should be 50 mm greater than the height of the tallest family member.

Dimensions of a simple staircase

The dimensions of the staircase determine the level of its convenience and safety. According to fire safety rules, structures with a march width of 1.25-1.50 m are considered the safest (for garden house this value can be reduced to 800 cm provided that a simple structure is located along the wall). The height of the stairs is calculated based on the finished floors of the upper and lower floors. The number of steps in a flight is calculated by dividing the height of the stairs by the optimal riser height.

There are two ways to calculate the length of the stairs:

1. Using the Pythagorean theorem (the length of the structure will be equal to the sum of the height of the room and the length of the projection of the stairs onto the floor in a square).
2. By multiplying the number of treads by their depth.

Using the second method, you should remember that the last treads and steps in front of the winder are not taken into account.

DIY simple metal staircase to the second floor

An ordinary staircase on a metal frame is a strong and durable design that allows you to quickly and safely climb to the second floor.

Assembling a staircase on a metal frame with your own hands involves the following procedure:

1. Calculation of all components of the staircase: from parts of the metal frame to the height and width of the steps (made of wood, plasterboard, glass, etc.).
2. Cutting metal and selected material for steps. You can do it yourself or in a hardware store.
3. Making fillets from metal corners - elements on which the steps will be installed. The size of the fillies is calculated individually for each design. The elements are welded with the shelves down and inward.
4. Installation of fillies on stringers using welding.
5. Installation of metal crossbars across each pair of corners and holders for steps.
6. Installation of stringers.
7. Sanding irregularities and joints in welding areas.
8. Priming the metal frame and painting it with waterproof paint.
9. Installation of steps from selected and prepared in advance material.
10. Installation of balusters, railings.

Balusters can be installed on the base by welding or to the end of the step using bolts.

Do-it-yourself wooden ordinary staircase

It is easier to assemble a staircase made of wood: lumber can be cut to order at a hardware store, and to install the elements, most often, a regular screwdriver is used.

When choosing lumber for stairs, you should focus on hard types of wood: for example, a 4 cm wide pine board for stringers. You can also make steps from pine, and risers from pine needles.

A wooden staircase is assembled from the installation of a winder platform (if the staircase has two flights): a frame is made from timber, reinforced in the middle with stiffening ribs, on which a wooden rectangular flooring is mounted. Simply put, the assembled platform should resemble a stool in appearance.

Next comes the assembly of the flight of stairs (first the bottom one - up to the landing): steps and risers are installed on the stringers using nails and self-tapping screws. There is another installation method - the steps cut into the bowstrings. Anchors or studs are used to install balusters and fence posts. Afterwards, handrails are installed.

To give the structure additional strength, after installing the steps, the stringers are tightened with metal ties installed on the threads at a distance of 2-3 steps.

Upon completion of assembly, the structure is sanded and puttied, painted in the desired color and covered with several layers of varnish.

Construction of a simple staircase (video)

A staircase is an important architectural component of any building, which allows you to move freely between the tiers of the building. The simplest design can be made on either a wooden or metal frame. Which option to choose depends on the wishes and skills of the master. The main thing is that the stairs are assembled taking into account building codes and rules. Then the device will be as convenient and safe as possible!

Multi-storey private construction requires the presence of a building in the house. This architectural detail of the room today is represented by a fairly wide range, both in terms of design and in terms of the materials from which it is made. In today's review, we will look at how to make diagrams of stairs to the second floor in a private house with your own hands and what parameters require mandatory calculation.

Read in the article

What kind of stairs are there?

Let's start with design features stairs, because this criterion is the main one in choosing this architectural element.

Marching stairs

This is the most common staircase model used in private homes due to its simple design. They can be straight, that is, connecting the first and second floors with one flight. They can be rotary with a change of direction by 90° or 180°.

It should be noted that direct stairs from the second floor are the simplest option. Their assembly is quite simple, the main thing is to correctly calculate the number of steps taking into account the angle of inclination of the structure. Because safe movement along it depends on these two parameters.

Attention! The optimal angle of inclination of a flight of stairs is 45°. The steeper the flight, the more difficult it is to move along it.

The standards indicate that an ideal flight of stairs should consist of 10 steps, no more. If the quantity exceeds this figure, then you need to think about using a rotary model.

In addition to the direction of location of stair structures, flight stairs differ in the load-bearing element of the structure. There are two positions here:

• on stringers;
• on the bowstrings.

Stringers are a beam (one or two) on which steps are installed on top. If you look at such a staircase from the side, the entire structure will be visible. Bowstrings are also beams (there must be two of them), only the steps are attached to them from the side to the back. They find themselves inside the structure, and if you look at the latter from the side, the steps will not be visible. They are closed with bowstrings. The photo above shows the staircase to the second floor on stringers, in the bottom photo on bowstrings.

Spiral staircases to the second floor

The unusual nature of spiral staircases has made them popular. Today, many owners are trying to give the interior of their rooms a certain charm, so screw models are increasingly found in country houses. But, firstly, such structures are not appropriate everywhere, secondly, in terms of assembly technology they are the most complex, thirdly, it is inconvenient to move around them, especially for older people, fourthly, it is simply impossible to move around them.

But in some situations you cannot do without them. For example, if the staircase is installed in cramped conditions, where it is not possible to build an inclined model. Because for her, an area of ​​1.5x1.5 m is a real option for location and placement.

Stairs on rails

First of all, let’s define what Bolts is. This is a special fastener that is inserted into the wall, and a step is installed on it. This can be a regular pin, it can be a metal corner that is attached to the wall or with metal dowels. That is, the main purpose of this element is the load-bearing basis for the step.

Purely structurally, staircases on rails do not have load-bearing beams, because the wall of the house acts as a support for the steps. As for the opposite side of the steps from the wall, they are usually installed on top of each other using special supplies. The latter can be made of metal or. But this design is not always used. The photo below shows a staircase on rails, the design of which has no additional elements. This structure looks light and elegant.

Combined designs

This category includes designs that use two different types: marching and screw. It must be said honestly that such models are rarely used in private homes. They are difficult to assemble; precise calculations are required here, especially with regard to the dimensions of the interface between the flight and the screw part, where the winder steps will be used. As practice shows, combined stairs to the second floor are purchased in finished form or made to order. It is difficult to make them with your own hands due to the complexity of the design itself.

It’s easy to assemble the finished version according to the instructions. But we must take into account the possibility of installing the structure in the space allocated for it. That is why experts recommend not installing such stairs yourself. They will require adjustment, which is associated with changes in the size of the structure or room.

Materials for making stairs

When the conversation turns to building an interfloor staircase for a private house with your own hands, you must assume that the construction should not be difficult. Therefore, you should not choose non-traditional materials for staircase structures, which are used today in finished products. The best option– tree or .

Wooden stairs

How to make a metal staircase to the second floor with your own hands

First of all, you need to select the supporting elements. Typically, channel No. 16-20 or profile pipe 100×100 or 150×150 mm. They, as in the case of wooden stringers, are selected according to their length, taking into account the angle of inclination and height of the ceilings.

Two profiles are laid between the floor of the first and second floors and secured to them by any means and means. Most often they use or metal dowels. Although it can also be used if the floors contain embedded parts in the form of corners or plates.

The difficulty begins at this stage, because it is necessary to form supports for the steps. Essentially, you need to create two combs from two profiles. There is no need to cut anything here, because this will weaken the load-bearing elements. We will build up the beams. To do this, you will have to make several supports in the form of corner structures from a 35×35 or 40-40 mm corner. Their number is twice the number of steps. Because under each you will have to lay two supports.

The dimensions of the corners determine the height of the riser and the depth of the step. After which these elements are welded to the beams at the location of the steps. The photo below shows the distribution diagram of the corner supports.

Attention! Stringers can be assembled separately on the floor, and then installed at their location. Or you can install load-bearing profiles, and only then weld supports under the steps onto them.

Now, regarding the fastening of the steps. The simplest option is with bolts. To do this on upper plane corner supports, two holes are made with a drill and a drill bit. The step (usually wooden) is installed in place and marks are made from below through the holes on it with a marker. Through the latter, through holes are made. On the front side (top), the hole must be widened to fit the size of the bolt heads. This is done to ensure that the heads are flush with the surface of the steps. Now you need to install the steps on the supports, insert four bolts into them with the head on top, and tighten them from below with a nut with a wide washer inserted.

The risers, if any are used in the stairs, can be attached to the vertical parts of the supports in exactly the same way, or to the steps with self-tapping screws from the bottom to the end.

Compact staircase to the second floor

What does a compact staircase mean? Most likely, this term means the construction small sizes, which can fit in a small area. In any case, it should not take up much space and not interfere. Such structures can be erected from both screw and marching types. And in this regard, screw ones are preferable, although if you make the staircase steep, they will take up little space. Usually these are built from or on.

So, let's look at how you can install a compact staircase in a house to the second floor.

How to make a compact staircase with your own hands

Let's consider the screw version. The design is based on a support pillar on which the degrees will be attached. For a pole, it is better to choose a pipe with a diameter of 80-100 mm. That is, we will assemble a metal structure using .

1. To do this, you need to know the length of the circle that forms the outer boundaries of the steps. For example, if the diameter of a compact staircase is 1 m, then the circumference is calculated by the formula: 2πR or πD, where D is the same diameter of 1 m. From here we find that the circumference is 3.14 × 1 = 3.14 m.
2. Now this value must be divided by the number of steps, which should be no more than 10. Even if 10, then the external width of each is 3.14/10 = 0.314 m or 31 cm. Since the staircase is compact, there will be no more than There are 6 steps, so the calculation must be carried out for them.
3. Next, you need to calculate the exact number of steps along the entire height of the stairs. This will require three parameters: ceiling height, floor thickness, step thickness. For example, the first is 2.7 m, the second is 15 cm, the third is 2 cm. For calculations, we take the standard distance between steps, let it be 20 cm. The height of the stairs is 270 plus 15 equals 285 cm. Divide this parameter by 22 (this the thickness of the steps plus the distance between them), we get 13 steps by rounding. In this case, the bottom step is the first floor.

So, first of all, 12 steps are made according to the obtained dimensions. They can be made of angle or sheet iron with a thickness of at least 6 mm. Then the support pole is installed and secured. After that, steps are welded to it evenly along the length. The main requirement for them is horizontal location.

The following drawings of spiral staircases.

And the latest drawings of straight flight stairs.

Prices for finished stairs to the second floor and installation services

As for staircase installation services, they vary by region. For example, the manufacturer of the Spiral Color 160 model produces installation for 25,000 rubles. At the same time, separately 1500 rubles. will take measurements. If tinting is ordered, then another 11,000 rubles are added.

It is difficult to understand the huge variety of staircases offered for private houses. And if you have difficulty choosing, our editors are ready to help. Leave your questions in the comments and we will definitely answer them.