I once ordered 5630 SMD LEDs from China for a future robot, which I’ve been assembling for half a year, and now a lot of diodes arrived, a whole bay, and the excess needs to be used somewhere :) I decided to assemble a backlight for the door at the entrance to the house. Having started experimenting, it turned out that you can make good lanterns for illumination in various places of the house, and most importantly, everything can be made from scrap materials! 🙂

The first step is to collect the necessary materials, namely:

1. The kefir or milk lid is the basis of the flashlight body
2. SMD 5630 or 5730 LEDs
3. Resistors 3.3 – 12 Ohm (depending on power source)
4. Circuit board or printed circuit board
5. Wires
6. Plexiglas - as a housing cover
7. 3.7 Volt battery or 5 Volt power supply

In this article, I used SMD 5630 LEDs with an operating voltage of 3.3 Volts and a current of 150 milliamps. The power source is a cell phone battery with a capacity of 5000 MAh and a voltage of 3.8 Volts. At this voltage, 3.3 Ohm resistors are needed, but in the absence of them, I had to use 2.2 Ohms.

When the battery is discharged, its voltage drops and generally does not exceed 3.6 volts, which is quite consistent with the resistance ratings of 2.2 Ohms.

A small piece of circuit board is suitable for attaching LEDs and resistors.

We solder the diodes, resistors and power wires according to the diagram.

The diagram shows resistor values ​​for 3.7 and 5 Volts. For a brighter glow, you can add additional LEDs - 3, 4 or more, depending on the size of the housing cover and the required brightness.

After this, you should check the functionality of the circuit by applying power to the corresponding wires.

Now you can fix the board in the cover using hot glue.

We pass the wires through the side hole of the cover, also fixing them with hot glue.

Now we attach the transparent plexiglass cover using one-second super glue.

I cut out the lid using a 44 mm crown and a screwdriver from a sheet of plexiglass.

Apply glue along the edges of the glass. It can be dots, or it can be a solid line.

Press the flashlight body tightly and hold it for a few seconds.

The cover is in place. The flashlight is almost ready.

The hole in the center of the flashlight, obtained by drilling a circle of plexiglass, can be closed using a furniture plug.

The flashlight body is ready. If desired, you can rub the plexiglass with sandpaper to obtain a matte surface. In the photo below, on the left is a flashlight with transparent glass, and on the right is a frosted one, obtained using sandpaper.

Connect both flashlights to a power source.

This is what the finished product looks like.

These lanterns are bright enough to illuminate an entire room.

For example, you can make a backlight on a bookshelf.

Or on the clothes shelf in the closet.

New generation light sources - LEDs - despite their still high cost, are becoming increasingly popular.

Due to their low energy consumption, they are successfully used not only in stationary lighting devices, but also in autonomous ones powered by batteries.

In this article we will talk about how you can make an LED flashlight with your own hands and what advantages it will have in comparison with a regular one.

A light-emitting diode (foreign name - Light Emitting Diode or LED), like a regular diode, consists of two semiconductors with electron and hole conductivity.

But in this case, materials were used that are characterized by glow in the pn junction zone.

Generally speaking, LEDs have been used in electronics for quite a long time.

But previously they barely glowed, and therefore were used only as indicators, for example, indicating that the device was turned on.

With the development of technology, LEDs have become much brighter, so that they have become full-fledged light sources.

At the same time, their cost is constantly decreasing, although, of course, they are still very far from an ordinary light bulb.

1. But many buyers are willing to overpay, because LEDs have a number of advantages:
2. They simply have a huge resource, which is expressed in 50 thousand hours of work. Moreover, manufacturers back up their promises with a warranty period of 2 or even 3 years.
3. They emit white light, very similar to natural light.
4. Much less susceptible to shock and vibration than other light sources.
5. They are also highly resistant to voltage surges.

Thanks to all these qualities, LEDs today confidently displace other light sources almost everywhere. They are used in everyday life, in car headlights, in advertising, and in portable flashlights, one of which we will now learn how to make.

Necessary elements for manufacturing

There are not many of them at all:

1. Light-emitting diode.
2. Ferrite ring with a diameter of 10 - 15 mm.
3. Wire for winding with a diameter of 0.1 and 0.25 mm (pieces of 20 - 30 cm).
4. 1 kOhm resistor.
5. N-p-n type transistor.
6. Battery.

It’s good if you can get the housing from a purchased flashlight. If it is not there, you can use any base to attach the components.

Assembly diagram

If everything is ready, we can start:

1. We make a transformer: the magnetic core of a homemade transformer will be a ferrite ring. First, 45 turns of winding wire with a diameter of 0.25 mm are wound onto it, forming a secondary winding. In the future, an LED will be connected to it. Next, from a wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm, you need to make a primary winding with 30 turns, which will be connected to the base of the transistor.
2. Selection of resistor: the resistance of the base resistor should be approximately 2 kOhm.

But the value of the second resistor needs to be selected. This is done like this:

1. a tuning (variable) resistor is installed in its place.
2. Having connected the flashlight to a new battery, set such a resistance on the variable resistor so that a current of 22 - 25 mA flows through the LED.
3. Measure the resistance value on the variable resistor and install a constant resistor with the same value instead.

As you can see, the scheme is extremely simple and the probability of error can be considered minimal.

DIY LED flashlight - diagram

If the flashlight still turns out to be inoperative, the reason may be as follows:

1. During the manufacture of the windings, the condition of multidirectional currents was not met. In this case, no current will be generated in the secondary winding. For the circuit to work, you need to either wind the windings in different directions, or swap the leads of one of the windings.
2. The winding contains too few turns. It must be borne in mind that the required minimum is 15 turns.

If they are present in the winding in smaller quantities, current generation will again be impossible.

DIY 12 volt LED flashlight

Those who need not a flashlight, but a whole spotlight in miniature, can assemble a device with a more powerful power source. The latter will use a 12-volt battery. This product will be somewhat larger in size, but it will still be quite easy to carry.

To create a high-power light source, you need to prepare the following:

• polymer pipe with a diameter of about 50 mm;
• glue for gluing PVC parts;
• a pair of threaded fittings for PVC pipe;
• screw-on plug;
• toggle switch;
• 12V LED;
• 12-volt battery;
• auxiliary elements for installation of electrical wiring - heat-shrinkable tubes, electrical tape, plastic clamps.

As a power source, you can use several batteries from broken radio-controlled toys, which are combined into one 12 V battery. Depending on their type, you will need from 8 to 12 batteries.

A 12-volt LED flashlight is assembled like this:

1. We solder pieces of wire to the LED contacts that are a couple of centimeters longer than the battery. In this case, it is necessary to ensure reliable insulation of connections.
2. The wires connected to the battery and LED are equipped with special connectors that allow quick-release connections.
3. When assembling the circuit, the toggle switch is installed so that it is on the opposite side in relation to the LED. The electronic filling is ready and if tests have shown that it works properly, you can begin manufacturing the case.

The body is made of polymer pipe. This is done like this:

1. The pipe is cut to the required length, after which all the electronics are placed inside it.
2. We place the battery on glue so that it remains motionless while carrying and manipulating the flashlight. Otherwise, the heavy battery may hit the LED element and damage it.
3. We glue a threaded fitting to the pipe at both ends. There is no need to save glue - the connection should be tight. Otherwise, water may seep into the housing in this place.
4. We fix the toggle switch inside the fitting installed on the side opposite to the LED. We place the switch on the glue, but it should not protrude outward so that the plug can be screwed onto the fitting.

To switch the toggle switch, you will need to unscrew the plug and then put it back in place. This is somewhat inconvenient, but this solution ensures complete sealing of the case.

Question of price and quality

Everything else can be obtained for free: batteries, as already mentioned, are removed from radio-controlled toys, plastic pipes and parts very often remain as waste after installing plumbing or heating in a house.

If absolutely all the components have to be purchased in a store, then the cost of the lighting device will be approximately 10 USD.

A homemade lamp from LED strip can be built easily and quickly. – see the manufacturing instructions and make your own unique product.

Read about how to properly install an LED strip with your own hands.

Conclusion

A convenient flashlight that provides bright light and at the same time can work for a long time without recharging the battery is always needed on the farm. As you can see, you can easily do it yourself, which will save you some money. The main thing is to be careful and strictly adhere to all the recommendations outlined in the article.

Video on the topic

LED pocket flashlights are in great demand among potential consumers. Diode designs have gained particular popularity. They have bright light and have minimal energy consumption. You can purchase this device in specialized stores or make it yourself at home.

Our article provides detailed instructions for a DIY flashlight. All the subtleties of the workflow are displayed here. Advice from experienced professionals will help you cope with the task.

Advantages of LED flashlights

LED lamps are the most economical source of light radiation. They provide an uninterrupted flow of bright radiation at the lowest power. In addition, it has a number of technical advantages over other lamps. These include:

• efficiency;
• safety;
• reliability;
• a variety of simple types and ideas for homemade lanterns;
• long-term operation.

Since the finished installation consumes a minimal amount of power, many microcircuits have been developed for this purpose, in which the main power source is one alkaline battery.

As for the color scheme, several shades of diodes are available for sale: green, blue, red, yellow, pink. For a cool shade, you need to choose white light bulbs. They have a wide lighting angle.

Where are diode lamps used?

The portable design of the flashlight with LED illumination has a wide range of applications. It is used where there is no access to a lighting fixture. It can be used in the garage, cellar or when working in the garden.

The device can operate for up to 6 days without replacing the battery. Some models are equipped with a replaceable battery pack that can be constantly charged from an electrical outlet. For this purpose, the package includes a special socket with clamps.

In the process of making a homemade flashlight, you can make an additional mount. As a result, the device is attached to any surface while freeing your hands.

Before you begin the work process, you need to choose the right diagram that will show you how to make a flashlight with your own hands. Technical images indicate detailed requirements for electrical parts.

Master class on assembling a flashlight with a bright diode

How to make a flashlight with your own hands? The assembly process is quite simple, but interesting. To manufacture this design, you need to purchase a DFL-OSPW511P LED. These lamps have a powerful lighting component that produces powerful illumination within 1m.

For this you will need:

• two power supplies. To do this, it is enough to purchase two coin-shaped batteries;
• food department. This will reduce energy loss during operation;
• bright diodes 5 pcs.;
• button to turn the device on and off;
• hot melt adhesive. It will ensure tight fixation of the microcircuit in the housing of the structure;
• soldering iron;
• resin for soldering parts.

When all the components are prepared, we move on to the work process. It includes the following items:

Using a soldering tool, fix the battery compartment on the old motherboard. We solder the wires from the power button to the positive pole of the power department. The other end is to one of the diode legs.

We fix the second section of the diode leg to the minus of the battery section. The result is a simple electrical circuit. When you press the button, all sections will close, which will ensure the desired glow of the device.

When all the elements are in place, you can place the circuit in the device body.

Upon completion of assembly, install the battery and turn on the finished structure to check its functionality. It is necessary to insert batteries in compliance with their polarity. Incorrect installation will lead to premature failure of the light fixture. The photo of a homemade flashlight shows the finished model.

Photos of DIY flashlights

LED strips are now used everywhere and sometimes you end up with pieces of such strips or strips with LEDs that have burnt out in places. But there are plenty of whole, working LEDs, and it’s a pity to throw away such good stuff, I want to use them somewhere. There are also various battery cells. In particular, we will look at the elements of a “dead” Ni-Cd (nickel-cadmium) battery. From all this rubbish you can build a good homemade flashlight, most likely better than the factory one.

LED strip, how to check

As a rule, LED strips are designed for a voltage of 12 volts and consist of many independent segments connected in parallel to form a strip. This means that if any element fails, only the corresponding element loses functionality, the remaining segments of the LED strip continue to work.

Actually, you just need to apply a supply voltage of 12 volts to the special contact points that are located on each piece of tape. At the same time, voltage will be supplied to all segments of the tape and it will become clear where the non-working areas are.

Each segment consists of 3 LEDs and a current-limiting resistor connected in series.

For these purposes, you can use a laboratory, regulated power supply or a mobile phone charger. It is not recommended to connect the charger directly to the LED, because its voltage is about 5 volts and theoretically the LED can burn out from the high current. To prevent this from happening, you need to connect the charger through a 100 Ohm resistor, this will limit the current.

I made myself such a simple device - charging from a mobile phone with crocodiles instead of a plug. Very convenient for turning on cell phones without a battery, recharging batteries instead of a “frog”, and so on. It's also good for checking LEDs.

For an LED, the polarity of the voltage is important; if you confuse the plus with the minus, the diode will not light up. This is not a problem; the polarity of each LED is usually indicated on the tape; if not, then you need to try both ways. The diode will not deteriorate from mixed up pluses or minuses.

LED lamp

For a flashlight it is necessary to make a light-emitting unit, a lamp. Actually, you need to dismantle the LEDs from the strip and group them according to your taste and color, according to quantity, brightness and supply voltage.

To remove it from the tape, I used a craft knife, carefully cutting off the LEDs directly with pieces of the conductive wires of the tape. I tried to solder it, but somehow I wasn’t able to do it well. Having picked about 30-40 pieces, I stopped; there was more than enough for a flashlight and other crafts.

LEDs should be connected according to a simple rule: 4 volts per 1 or several parallel diodes. That is, if the assembly will be powered from a source of no more than 5 volts, no matter how many LEDs there are, they must be soldered in parallel. If you plan to power the assembly from 12 volts, you need to group 3 consecutive segments with an equal number of diodes in each. Here is an example of an assembly that I soldered from 24 LEDs, dividing them into 3 consecutive sections of 8 pieces. It is designed for 12 volts.

Each of the three sections of this element is designed for a voltage of about 4 volts. The sections are connected in series, so the entire assembly is powered by 12 volts.

Someone writes that LEDs should not be connected in parallel without an individual limiting resistor. Maybe this is correct, but I don’t focus on such trifles. For a long service life, in my opinion, it is more important to select a current-limiting resistor for the entire element and it should be selected not by measuring the current, but by feeling the operating LEDs for heating. But more on that later.

I decided to make a flashlight powered by 3 nickel-cadmium cells from a used screwdriver battery.

The voltage of each element is 1.2 volts, therefore 3 elements connected in series give 3.6 volts.

We will focus on this tension.

Having connected 3 battery cells to 8 parallel diodes, I measured the current - about 180 milliamps.

It was decided to make a light-emitting element from 8 LEDs; it will fit well into the reflector of a halogen spotlight.

As a base, I took a piece of foil fiberglass about 1cmX1cm, it will fit 8 LEDs in two rows. I cut 2 separating strips in the foil - the middle contact will be “-”, the two extreme ones will be “+”.

For soldering such small parts, my 15-watt soldering iron is too much, or rather the tip is too large.

You can make a tip for soldering SMD components from a piece of 2.5mm electrical wire. To ensure the new tip stays in the large hole in the heater, you can bend the wire in half or add additional pieces of wire into the large hole.

The base is tinned with solder and rosin and the LEDs are soldered in observing polarity. The cathodes (“-”) are soldered to the middle strip, and the anodes (“+”) are soldered to the outer strips. The connecting wires are soldered, the outer strips are connected with a jumper.

You need to check the soldered structure by connecting it to a 3.5-4 volt source or through a resistor to a phone charger. Don't forget about the switching polarity. All that remains is to come up with a reflector for the flashlight; I took a reflector from a halogen lamp. The light element must be securely fixed in the reflector, for example with glue.

Unfortunately, the photo cannot convey the brightness of the glow of the assembled structure, but I will say for myself: the dazzle is not bad at all!

After scouring the Internet, I discovered important information about nickel-cadmium batteries: the nominal voltage of each element is 1.2 volts, the bank should be charged to a voltage of 1.4 volts (voltage on the bank without load), discharged should be no lower than 0.9 volts - if several elements are stacked in series, then not lower than 1 volt per element.

You can charge with a current of a tenth of the capacity (in my case 1.2A/h = 0.12A), but in fact it can be higher (the screwdriver charges for no more than an hour, which means the charging current is at least 1.2A). For training/recovery, it is useful to discharge the battery to 1 V with some load and charge it again several times. At the same time, estimate the approximate operating time of the flashlight.

So, for three elements connected in series, the parameters are as follows: charging voltage 1.4X3 = 4.2 volts, nominal voltage 1.2X3 = 3.6 volts, charging current - what will a mobile charger with a stabilizer made by me give.

The only unclear point is how to measure the minimum voltage on discharged batteries. Before connecting my lamp, the voltage on the three elements was 3.5 volts, when connected it was 2.8 volts, the voltage quickly restored when disconnected again to 3.5 volts. I decided this: with a load the voltage should not fall below 2.7 volts (0.9 V per element), without a load it is desirable that it be 3 volts (1 V per element). However, it will take a long time to discharge; the longer you discharge, the more stable the voltage will be, and it will stop dropping quickly when the LEDs are lit!

I discharged my already discharged batteries for several hours, sometimes turning off the lamp for a few minutes.

The result was 2.71 V with the lamp connected and 3.45 V without load; I did not dare to discharge further. I note that the LEDs continued to shine, albeit dimly.

Charger for nickel-cadmium batteries

But this scheme did not fit into my idea - versatility and maximum convenience for charging. After all, for this device you will need to make a transformer with a rectifier or use a ready-made power supply. I decided to make it possible to charge the batteries from a mobile phone charger and a computer USB port. To implement it, you will need a more complicated circuit:

The field-effect transistor for this circuit can be taken from a faulty motherboard and other computer peripherals; I cut it off an old video card. There are plenty of such transistors on the motherboard near the processor and not only. To be sure of your choice, you need to enter the transistor number into the search and make sure from the datasheets that it is a field effect one with an N-channel.

I used the TL431 microcircuit as a zener diode; it is found in almost every mobile phone charger or other switching power supplies. The pins of this microcircuit must be connected as in the figure:

I assembled the circuit on a piece of PCB and provided a USB socket for connection. In addition to the circuit, I soldered one LED near the socket to indicate charging (that voltage is being supplied to the USB port).

A few explanations about the diagram Since the charging circuit will always be connected to the battery, the VD2 diode is necessary so that the battery does not discharge through the stabilizer elements. By selecting R4, you need to achieve a voltage of 4.4 V at the specified test point, you need to measure with the battery disconnected, 0.2 volts is the reserve for drawdown. And in general, 4.4 V does not exceed the recommended voltage for three battery cells.

The charger circuit can be significantly simplified, but you will have to charge only from a 5 V source (the computer’s USB port meets this requirement); if the phone charger produces a higher voltage, it cannot be used. According to a simplified scheme, theoretically, batteries can be recharged; in practice, this is how batteries are charged in many factory products.

LED current limitation

To prevent overheating of the LEDs, and at the same time reduce the current consumption from the battery, you need to select a current-limiting resistor. I selected it without any instruments, assessing the heating by touch and controlling the brightness of the glow by eye. The selection must be made on a charged battery; the optimal value between heating and brightness must be found. I got a 5.1 Ohm resistor.

Working hours

I performed several charges and discharges and got the following results: charging time - 7-8 hours, with the lamp continuously turned on, the battery discharges to 2.7 V in about 5 hours. However, when turned off for a few minutes, the battery regains its charge a little and can work for another half hour, and so on several times.

This means that the flashlight will work for a long time if the light is not on all the time, but in practice this is what happens.

Even if you use it practically without turning it off, it should be enough for a couple of nights.

Of course, a longer operating time without interruption was expected, but do not forget that the batteries were taken from a “dead” screwdriver battery.

Flashlight housing

The resulting device needs to be placed somewhere, to make some kind of convenient case.

I wanted to place batteries with an LED flashlight in a polypropylene water pipe, but the cans did not even fit into a 32 mm pipe, because the internal diameter of the pipe is much smaller. In the end, I settled on couplings for 32 mm polypropylene. I took 4 couplings and 1 plug and glued them together with glue.

By gluing everything into one structure, we got a very massive lantern, about 4 cm in diameter. If you use any other pipe, you can significantly reduce the size of the lantern.

Having wrapped the whole thing with electrical tape for a better look, we got this lantern:

Afterword

In conclusion, I would like to say a few words about the resulting review. Not every USB port on a computer can charge this flashlight, it all depends on its load capacity, 0.5 A should be enough. For comparison, cell phones may show charging when connected to some computers, but in reality there is no charging. In other words, if the computer charges the phone, then the flashlight will also charge.

The field-effect transistor circuit can be used to charge 1 or 2 battery cells from USB, you just need to adjust the voltage accordingly.

Reasons to use LEDs

Lanterns were not spared either. Thanks to powerful LEDs, it has become possible to assemble a super-powerful and at the same time fairly autonomous flashlight. Such lanterns can emit very strong and bright light over a long distance or over a large area.

In this article we will tell you about the main advantages of high-power LEDs, and we will tell you how to fold an LED flashlight with your own hands. If you have already encountered this, then you will be able to supplement your knowledge; for beginners in this area, the article will answer many questions related to LEDs and flashlights with their use.

If you want to save money by using LED, there are some factors to consider. Since sometimes the price of such a lamp can exceed all the savings. If you have to spend a lot of money and time on maintaining light sources, and the total number of them consumes a lot of electricity, then you should consider whether an LED would be a better replacement.

Compared to conventional lamps, LEDs have a number of advantages that elevate them:

• There is no need for maintenance.
• Significant energy savings, sometimes savings up to 10 times.
• High quality luminous flux.
• Very high service life.

Necessary components

If you decide to assemble an LED flashlight with your own hands, for moving in the dark or for working at night, but don’t know where to start? We will help you with this. The first thing you need to do is find the necessary elements for assembly.

Here is a preliminary list of required parts:

1. Light-emitting diode
2. Winding wire, 20-30 cm.
3. The ferrite ring is approximately 1-.1.5 cm in diameter.
4. Transistor.
5. 1000 ohm resistor.

Of course, this list needs to be supplemented with a battery, but this is an element that can be easily found in any home and does not require special preparation. You should also select a housing or some kind of base on which the entire circuit will be installed. A good case would be an old, non-working flashlight or one that you are going to modify.

How to assemble it yourself

When assembling the circuit, we will need a transformer, but it was not added to the list. We will make it ourselves from a ferrite ring and wire. This is very simple to do, take our ring and start winding the wire forty-five times, this wire will connect to the LED. We take the next wire, wind it thirty times already, and direct it to the base of the transistor.

The resistor used in the circuit should have a resistance of 2000 ohms, only by using such resistance can the circuit work without failure. When testing the circuit, replace resistor R1 with a similar one with adjustable resistance. Turn on the entire circuit and adjust the resistance of this resistor, adjust the voltage to approximately 25mA.

As a result, you will know what resistance should be at this point, and you will be able to select a suitable resistor with the resistance value you need.

If the circuit is drawn up in full accordance with the above requirements, then the flashlight should work immediately. If it doesn't work, then you may have made the following mistake:

• The ends of the winding are connected in reverse.
• The number of turns does not correspond to what is required.
• If the wound turns are less than 15, then current generation in the transformer ceases.

Assembling a 12 volt LED flashlight

If the amount of light from the flashlight is not enough, then you can assemble a powerful flashlight powered by a 12-volt battery. This flashlight is still portable, but much larger in size.

To assemble the circuit of such a lantern with our own hands, we will need the following parts:

1. Plastic pipe, about 5 cm in diameter and PVC glue.
2. Threaded fitting for PVC, two pieces.
3. Threaded plug.
4. Tumblr.
5. Actually the LED lamp itself is designed for 12 volts.
6. Battery for powering the LED, 12 volts.

Electrical tape, heat shrink tubing and small clamps to keep the wiring in order.
You can make your own battery from small batteries that are used in radio-controlled toys. You may need 8-12 pieces, depending on their power, to give a total of 12 volts.

Solder two wires to the contacts on the light bulb, the length of each should exceed the length of the battery by several centimeters. Everyone is carefully isolated. When connecting the lamp and battery, install the toggle switch so that it is located at the opposite end from the LED lamp.

At the ends of the wires coming from the lamp and from the battery pack, which we made with our own hands, we install special connectors for easy connection. We assemble the entire circuit and check its functionality.

Assembly diagram

If everything works, then we proceed to creating the case. Having cut the required length of the pipe, we insert our entire structure into it. We carefully secure the battery inside with glue so that it does not damage the light bulb during operation.

We install a fitting at both ends, secure it with glue, this way we will protect the lantern from accidental moisture getting inside. Next, we bring our toggle switch to the opposite edge from the lamp, and also carefully secure it. The rear fitting must completely cover the switch with its walls, and when the plug is screwed in, prevent moisture from entering there.

To use, simply unscrew the cap, turn on the flashlight and screw it back tightly.

Price issue

The most expensive thing you will need is a 12 volt LED lamp. It costs about 4-5 dollars. After rummaging through children's old toys, batteries from a broken car will be free for you.

The toggle switch and pipe can also be found in the garage; cuttings of such pipes are always left after repairs. If there are no pipes and batteries, you can ask friends and neighbors or buy them at the store. If you buy absolutely everything, then such a flashlight can cost you about $10.

Summarize

LED technology is gaining more and more popularity. Having good characteristics, they can soon completely displace all competitors in the field of lighting. And assembling a powerful portable flashlight with an LED lamp yourself will not be difficult for you.