The idea to make a master class came to me while I was working, so I’m presenting my short photo master class. I hope that my photographs with explanations will help to capture the essence of the whole process, and you will be able to make flowerpots of the size and color you desire. We made four flowerpots for ourselves: one large (86x30x72 cm) and three smaller ones (43x30x72 cm). In this master class I will show you how to make one large and small flowerpot.
Necessary materials:
- block house board;
- planed block;
- self-tapping screws;
- Pinotex or any other wood impregnation;
- liquid insulation;
- paint (we took Tikkurila);
- azure (V33 Lasure Bois);
- metal pallets (or any other frame for pots).
Tools:
- saw;
- screwdriver;
- roulette;
- brushes;
- a simple pencil.
First, we cut the boards into equal lengths of 72 cm each (the height of the flowerpot) in the amount of 26 pieces (16 pieces for a large flowerpot and 10 pieces for a small one). The block house board has a perfectly smooth surface and no additional sanding is required. For a small flowerpot we make two sides from three boards and two sides from two boards. We connect the boards by inserting them into grooves.

For a large flowerpot we make two sides from six boards and two sides from two boards.

WITH inside We fasten all our boards using self-tapping screws (we additionally secured the boards with small sections - the remains of the block house, as can be seen in the photo, where they have already been painted).

From the block we saw off small pieces of legs for flowerpots (four legs for each flowerpot).

We carefully paint all our blanks from the inside. We had some Pinotex left, so we finished painting the blanks for the small flowerpot with it, and the blanks for the large flowerpot were already painted.

Next, we coat all joints and legs with liquid waterproofing (additional protection against moisture). At this stage, we don’t care much about beauty, since the main thing is practicality. The only problem liquid waterproofing- takes a long time to dry, so we collected our flowerpots only the next day.

We assemble the flowerpot and fasten the sides with self-tapping screws (we used self-tapping screws No.: 52.70 and 120 mm). To be honest, at this stage, without male power there's simply no way around it. You can fasten the sides with special corners, but self-tapping screws are cheaper. I took a photo of the already assembled flowerpot, as I was doing my best to help my husband screw the boards in place :)

Next we paint our flowerpots on the outside. We paint alternately: glaze and paint. Glaze has a triple effect: it protects, impregnates and decorates wood (firing effect). You can paint everything with azure, it will also be beautiful, but we chose stripes, since our terrace is striped (and we selected the paint to match the color of our roof).

We install metal pallets of suitable size on top of the bars (luckily we had them, but in the absence of them, we can make a wooden lattice).

We place pots with hanging flowers on pallets. Our flowerpot is ready!

And here I couldn’t resist and drew a lizard :)

From the remaining board my husband made original stand for bicycles (painted with glaze in three layers). It turned out to be an original parking lot for iron horses :)

Wooden decoration of the interior of the house is a timeless classic. Its lovers will appreciate the modern block house natural material for interior decoration.

Block house - what is it?

Under the foreign word block house (variants that are found when writing block house, blockhouse) hides a well-known lining, only its front side has a rounded shape. It is made from the outermost part of a log, the middle of which is used for the production of boards. If the front side is processed in the form of a rectangle rather than a semicircle, then the result is a block house imitation of timber.

What is a block house made of?

The most common block house for interior decoration is made from coniferous wood: pine, spruce, larch. Depending on the quality of the wood used in production, there are several categories of blockhouse: from class C, when logs with black knots, bark residues and noticeable wormholes are used, with small darkened areas and mechanical damage in the form of microcracks and chips, to blockhouse Extra-class with a perfect surface without flaws. Logs for an elite block house are selected only by hand.

Minor defects in wood (knots, small cracks, darkening), as in a class A and B block house, will give interior decoration a touch of antiquity and naturalness.

Block houses with noticeable defects in the material are used for interior decoration of saunas, baths, gazebos, where it is not the appearance of the decorative covering of the walls that is important, but its resistance to temperature changes and rotting, hygroscopicity and strength.

The house block is produced both in the form of individual boards with tongue-and-groove grooves on the sides to connect them, and in the form of panels of several cylinders. WITH reverse side both boards and panels have one or more longitudinal grooves to prevent cracking and provide ventilation.

In addition to coniferous wood, block houses are made from linden, aspen, and birch. At high temperatures, softwood lumber releases a resinous substance that remains on the walls. Resin drips spoil the appearance of the walls, and the resin is not so easy to clean off. In addition, panels made of coniferous wood become very hot, which can cause burns when used to decorate steam rooms and saunas.

Why block house?

The finishing of the block house inside the house is made from Extra-class and class A grades.

A high-quality imitation will create the complete illusion of log walls in a room, fill it with an incomparable aroma and create a special microclimate, thanks to the environmental properties of coniferous wood, especially if a house block made of cedar or larch is used to decorate the room.

When using a blockhouse imitation of timber, the “log-likeness” of the walls will not be as pronounced, the relief of the walls will be softer, but will retain the charm inherent in interior decoration made of natural wood.

Finishing a block house inside stipulates that the material must be selected taking into account the characteristics of wood species, both according to their physical characteristics, and in terms of their aesthetic appearance.

Properties of wood for a block house

Pine is durable and resistant to rot, but has a tendency to develop blue spots caused by wood-staining fungi, so a pine house block requires additional treatment with an antiseptic and an external coating. Pine wood is light, distinguished by its brightness and numerous veins.

Spruce is more suitable for interior decoration, since, unlike pine, it has a greater ability to absorb and retain moisture from the air. In terms of strength, after drying, it is not inferior to pine. Its wood has a light yellow color with a golden tint.

Larch is much more expensive than spruce and pine due to its unique properties. It is very resistant to dampness and rotting, heavy and durable. The annual rings are clearly visible in the sections, due to this the larch house block looks very beautiful on the walls, the color of the wood ranges from red-brown to brown.

A cedar house block has the ability to destroy almost all pathogenic microbes due to great content in him essential oils. When the temperature rises, cedar wood releases a balsamic aroma; inhaling it is good for health; it is not without reason that this species of coniferous tree is considered healing. Cedar wood is heterogeneous and has a brownish-pink color.

For interior decoration of a steam room in a bathhouse or sauna, there is nothing better than linden panels. Linden wood has a strong structure, does not warp or crack when dried, and is resistant to rot.

When the choice of blockhouse is made, you need to estimate the amount of material needed for finishing. In order to calculate the need, you need to multiply the height of the wall and its length. From the obtained value, subtract the area of ​​the window and doorways and add 10%. The resulting number is the required volume of material to cover one wall.

Block house processing

Building materials made from natural wood must be treated with antiseptic compounds, because no matter how strong and resistant the wood is to external influences, they cannot be completely avoided. Moisture can lead to mold, and wood can be damaged by a bug or fungus.

The most reliable method of processing a blockhouse is vacuum-hydraulic. In industrial conditions, workpieces are processed chemical compounds in vacuum pressure chambers, where solutions are supplied under pressure. This method allows you to saturate the wood to a depth of at least 5 mm, but the cost of the material treated in this way will be higher.

Antiseptic treatment of a block house can be done with your own hands using a roller and brush, but the quality and depth of coating will be lower than with industrial processing, however, any impregnation will protect the block house from pests, fungus and mold, reduce the likelihood of cracks and extend its service life .

Internal installation of block house

The work of installing a block house involves several stages:

• surface preparation;
• installation of sheathing;
• fastening of panels.

Finishing with a block house inside suggests that the material must be allowed to “sit out” in the room where it is planned to be installed, freeing it from packaging, for 1-2 days in order to avoid deformation of the panels after installation.

Then, if industrial treatment has not been carried out, the panels are treated with an antiseptic in two steps. At the same stage, minor surface irregularities are eliminated using sandpaper.

Preparing the wall surface for installation

The house block is mounted on flat walls. Before the beginning installation work the walls are cleaned of old coating, if any, and leveled.

Regardless of the type of walls - wooden, brick or block, they are treated with an antiseptic to prevent the appearance of fungus, and then a primer is applied to them with a brush or spray to strengthen the surface.

Installation of sheathing

The frame for mounting a block house is most often made from timber that has undergone antiseptic treatment. The beam is attached to the wall vertically with self-tapping screws, if the wall is wooden, to stone and concrete walls The timber is fastened with dowels into holes drilled with a hammer drill.

The thickness of the timber for the sheathing must correspond to the thickness of the insulation if the walls need insulation. If necessary, waterproofing material is placed under the sheathing, secured with a stapler or staples. The bars are placed on the wall in increments corresponding to the length of the panels or the size of the insulation, but it is better that it does not exceed 50-70 cm. The lathing must be installed, checking the level, starting from the middle of the wall towards the corners, since the appearance depends on this mounted structure.

Before the installation of the house block begins, a distribution box is installed in the room, locations for sockets are outlined and cables are supplied to them.

Block house finishing of walls inside the house

When attaching panels horizontally, which is preferable, assembly should begin from the bottom corner, leaving a small gap between the panel and the floor for free air circulation. A small gap for ventilation should be left between the top panel and the ceiling. Ventilation will prevent deformation of the material and the appearance of fungus and mold behind the panels.

The panel is laid with the tenon facing up, and the board is carefully adjusted to the board.

The panels are secured with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the base of the groove, then the tenon of the top board will hide the joint and the cladding will not be damaged. For fastening, clamps and special fastening brackets for the block house are also used.

Although nails are the cheapest means of fastening, they will not provide sufficient structural strength, as they become loose over time.

Assembling the panels of a block house on a flat wall surface is not particularly difficult, but the design of the corners has some peculiarities.

Design of corners when installing a block house

To make the corners look neat, it is advisable to secure planed five-millimeter timber in the corners of the room before starting installation work, at the frame manufacturing stage. Then the blockhouse panel can be attached to the beam and the angle will be neat. This method can be used for both external and external internal corners.

Another option for decorating corners is to cut the panels at an angle of 45 degrees. If correct angle It won’t be possible to withstand it - no big deal, a decorative corner will help hide minor fastening errors.

The places where there should be holes for sockets and switches are marked on the panel in advance, and they are cut out using a drill and a crown, choosing the latter according to the diameter of the socket.

Coatings for block house

Finishing a block house inside a house requires additional protection of the surface to protect it from minor damage - scratches and chips.

You can protect a wooden surface with stains and varnishes, which will simultaneously reveal and enhance decorative features wood.

First, a layer of stain is applied to the blockhouse; it acts as a tinting layer. Next, the surface is coated with a one-component varnish in two steps using a paint brush or foam roller.

You can replace varnish and stain with a glazing compound or glaze; it will also protect the surface of the block house and give it, depending on the type, either a matte or glossy shine. If desired, the azure can be tinted, and then the wall covering will acquire a colored tint. It is recommended to apply it in three layers using a roller, paint brush or sprayer.

Another option to diversify wood covering Hausa block - use of water-soluble paints. Although they are not particularly durable compared to paints based on organic solvents, they are environmentally friendly and recommended for finishing works inside the house. They will give wooden surface shades of red and ebony, cherry, walnut, maple, oak and various shades yellow color– from lemon to gold.

Among other profiled lumber that is intended for finishing, the blockhouse is rightfully considered the most difficult in terms of installation. The problem lies not in any special technology for fastening the boards or in unique frame configurations - everything is standard here (which you can read about in our other article).

Most inexperienced users have difficulty implementing high-quality joints and connections. Correct docking is far from just beauty. Excess cracks and gaps cause wall structures to blow through, internal layers to become wet, insulation to erode, and the strength of the cladding to decrease...

Therefore, we decided to devote a separate publication to this issue.

Tool for cutting and fitting a block house

Hand saws will not work and chain saws will not. the best option. We can definitely say that for cutting a block house (as well as lining itself, imitation timber or floorboards...) the ideal tool is a miter saw. We are not talking about an ordinary “circular saw” or “parquet”, but about a device with a frame and a movable cutting part.

With the help of such a tool, it is possible not only to clearly trim lumber (and block house in particular) at right angles, but also to cut at almost any angle. required angle. When you need to clad a house with a bay window, you immediately understand the value of such an opportunity. By the way, the selected angle is fixed and you can repeat it as many times as you like, or quickly change/adjust it as necessary. For this reason, these devices are often called “electric miter boxes”.

Interestingly, if you have to work with a wide block house of 240 mm, then the diameter of the saw blade may not be enough. For such conditions, there are models with the so-called “broaching”.

The most important advantage of crosscut saws is the high speed of rotation of the equipment. If everything is done correctly, then a special wood disc with carbide tips will not leave behind even raised lint. Moreover, high speed makes it possible not only to saw, but also to slightly “shape/adjust” the already sawn edge. For example, a jigsaw cannot do this at all.

Electric jigsaw

A jigsaw on a site with a block house also has a right to exist. It is usually used as additional option in pair with the crosscut, or as the only alternative option.

A jigsaw is ahead of the curve when it comes to making curved cuts. If the lamellas of a blockhouse on adjacent walls are spaced apart, then it is precisely the shape that has to be cut to the junction.

A jigsaw is also good when you need to make L-shaped and U-shaped cuts. You can’t do without a jigsaw when you need to saw a block house longitudinally (the beginning or end of a plane), or when you need to trim an imitation log in place (for example, on slopes).

• Cut from the front side.
• Use “clean cut” files with the teeth pointing down.
• Use a support pad with a plastic protector to avoid scratching the wood. If the protector is not supplied, then the area must be covered with masking tape.

Once properly trimmed with a good power tool, sanding as such is not required. But with the help of emery, you can quickly and quite accurately grind in articulated parts that will be used in visible areas. This is especially true when the task is to remove a few millimeters from the figured end of a blockhouse that has already been cut out using a jigsaw.

Among various types sanders, the most useful would be a belt sander equipped with medium and coarse sanding consumables.

Is it necessary to somehow modernize the frame in the area where the block house joins?

Carpenters and builders and finishers in general have a main (let’s call it FIRST) unwritten rule, which roughly sounds like this: “edges should never hang.” This means that in the area of ​​mutual junction of the lamellas or in the area of ​​abutment of the blockhouse cladding to other surfaces, there should always be a frame element well secured to the load-bearing base. For example, on a long wall (where the house block needs to be connected longitudinally), an additional stand must be installed in advance precisely under the joint of the planks.

Rule TWO: “if possible, always change the dressing.” The concept of dressing is not at all limited to the “chessboard order” of the arrangement of some elements, although this is also important.

Let's imagine that we have a wall 9 meters wide. We could make one articulation line (let's assume on the right), which would go from the base to the roof overhang. But it is much more reliable, and sometimes much more aesthetically pleasing (since it is also less noticeable) - to separate the joints of each next row in different directions. For example, in the first row we place a whole 6-meter long board on the right, and an additional 3-meter long one on the left. The next row is the opposite.

Bandaging consists of joining mating planks on one frame beam. This is much more reliable than if we placed, even if next to each other, two separate support beams. It is for this reason that racks with increased width are often used for the end connection of a blockhouse on a flat area. For example, you can use a 40X40 block for the entire wall, and for the joint you need to take lumber of at least 60X40 mm so that there is support for two planks.

A similar story with the outer corner. The surest way to make it stable, level and reliable is to install a stand at the very corner (instead of two, located at the edges of each of the walls), so that the boards of both walls are attached to it.

Note that if a board is used as elements of the subsystem, as in frame houses, then a board is also used on the corner. It is impossible to replace this corner post with timber, since then instead of insulation in this zone vulnerable to freezing there will be too much solid wood and not enough insulation.

The inner corner is bandaged differently. To do this, it is recommended to sheathe the walls not in a “well”, but separately, one by one. First, we completely sew the blockhouse onto the first plane, then we assemble the frame of the adjacent wall, while we attach the outermost vertical bar of the frame perimeter to the already finished cladding.

The massiveness of the boards of the block house allows you to avoid installing an embedded rack inside the frame, but when sheathing with plasterboard or thin lining is carried out, then an additional element must be installed in the area of ​​the corner or T-shaped junction.

Adjusting joints and decorative tricks

Is it necessary to do a fine adjustment or can the joint be made relatively roughly and covered with something?

Of course, you don’t have to limit yourself to just trimming. Moreover, many homeowners like the look of a house clad in a blockhouse and complemented with various trims. The building actually gets a, let’s say, “finished” appearance. But you can also highlight the additions a little by color.

But it is very important that there are no critical gaps left under the additional elements that will impair the insulation capabilities building structures. And this solution, of course, does not cancel the requirements for the power organization of the frame in the joint area.

Among the moldings on the facade, outer wooden corners (usually the widest ones) are most often used, and sometimes they are replaced with a combination of a pair of edged boards. To close and emphasize the joint on the plane of the wall, as well as to form the junction, use a strip (“layout”).

Indoors, try to avoid using corners and strips. In some cases, by analogy with the arrangement of a log house, jute rope can be laid in the internal corners along the joints of the blockhouse (for decorative reasons).

How to make extensions to a blockhouse if there are no additional additions?

Option one (suitable for connecting planks on the plane and in corners). It consists of preliminary installation of a docking bar into the frame. The block is mounted so that its “front” face is approximately in the same plane as the resulting cladding. The block house planks are then cut at right angles, which makes the work much easier. Another thing is the aesthetics of this solution; not everything is so smooth here.

Option two (suitable for outer corner and inner corner). It is also called “on the mustache”. The essence of this solution is to cut the parts to be joined at an angle. Typically, blockhouse planks are cut at 45 degrees, but do not forget that there are also indirect angles in houses, for example, on bay windows - then the miter cut will be different.

Option three (used for an internal corner, if the rows of the blockhouse on adjacent walls are shifted relative to each other by half the width of the board). In this case, to tightly join the profiled materials, you need to make a shaped cut. It's actually not as difficult as it seems.

You can refuse to use a template, and instead draw the necessary outline directly on the board.

How and according to what principle should I attach the block house at the joints?

If the rule “the edges should not hang” is followed, then it is always possible to install fasteners here. And he is definitely needed here.

The hardware can be used the same as for the entire wall - both finishing screws and nails will do.

When making a connection without corners or layout (flashing), the option of hidden fixation is selected. That is, a clamp is nailed near the edge of each plank, or a nail is installed at an angle through the body of the blockhouse tenon.

If a flashing or corner is used to disguise the joint, then it makes sense to secure the blockhouse through the body, but not in the lock area, but through the front visible surface. 2 (sometimes 3) nails/screws are placed on each board. This option is certainly the most reliable.

As a conclusion

When describing the technology for arranging corners, joints and abutments of a blockhouse, it is extremely difficult to formulate a single universal instruction. Since users set slightly different tasks for this material, practice different (but valid) approaches to installation, and need to arrange different, sometimes completely unique, structural units...

We tried to outline the basic principles in the form of questions and answers. Use them flexibly, and everything will definitely work out.

The unusual name “block house” hides a modern cladding material made from solid wood. It differs from its competitors in that it perfectly imitates a rounded log. Neither rounded vinyl siding nor metal analogs come close to providing the required visual effect.

Unlike other lumber, the blockhouse does not need to be modified; it is ready for installation right out of the package. Thanks to the tenons and grooves cut into the edges, assembling the sheathing is quite simple; anyone can do it House master with little carpentry experience. However, before starting work, it is advisable for beginners to watch a video of how a house block is finished; it would also be a good idea to look through the pages with photos.

Preparation

In order for the blockhouse board to acclimatize to the conditions in which it will be used, the material must be brought indoors or vice versa - taken outside (just not under open sky, and under a canopy). The packs, freed from the film, should lie there for at least a day or two.

Before installation, it makes sense to treat a block house that will be used outdoors with an antiseptic on all sides, so its service life will increase significantly and, with timely renewal of coatings, will last for decades.
While the load-bearing wall is still accessible, it needs to be repaired if necessary; if it is made of wood, it should also be treated with fire and bioprotection.

Then they begin to hang the planes using a plumb line and stretch the beacons from nylon threads.

Assembly of the frame subsystem

If you type into a search engine the query: block house installation video, you will come across videos that at most show how this lumber is already attached to the finished sheathing. But creating a frame is a more complex and responsible operation.

To assemble the supporting frame, they usually use edged timber with a section of 50X50, 40X50 mm and the like. The bars are placed vertically, because the blockhouse planks should be oriented horizontally.
The pitch between the sheathing posts is chosen within the range of 500-800 mm. It all depends on the thickness of the cladding material: for a plank with a thickness of 28 mm, a denser frame is needed, and for a massive cladding with a thickness of 36 or 45 mm, a thinner frame can be made.

For setting up racks and attaching them to load-bearing wall It is better to use reliable metal fasteners. In some videos on how to install a house block with your own hands, an error immediately catches your eye when the so-called “pawns” (direct suspension) are used. For these conditions, the ideal option would, of course, be specialized facade consoles, or perforated corners made of steel at least 1.5-2 mm thick. In rooms and on the facade, brackets are placed at intervals of 70-80 mm, and if the bar is relatively thin, then 50-60 mm.

Fitting and fastening the planks

The house block is quite difficult to join in the inner corners, since its front surface is rounded. The easiest way to perform the pairing is if, before installation, you first install a planed block in the corner, to which the blockhouse planks will be adjacent. There is another method, which is discussed in several well-known videos on finishing a block house inside a house. Its main feature is mixing adjacent rows and cutting boards according to a template.

External corners are easier to assemble. Here they either make a rather rough connection, and then cover this place with a wooden corner (we sell ready-made special lumber for such purposes). Or the cutting will be done “on the miter” - that is, at an angle of 45 degrees (or at some other angle as necessary).

The sheathing is fastened using nails or thin self-tapping screws.

In both cases, this technique is used so that the fasteners on the wall are not visible:

• A clamp is put on the groove, then the clamp is nailed to the frame beam.
• The fastener passes through the body near the tenon, and its head is overlapped by the groove of the next board.

In most videos, finishing a block house from the outside of a house is done from the bottom up, with the groove directed towards the ground and the tenon towards the overhang of the roof. They do this precisely so that rainwater does not get into the sheathing lock and accumulate there. Indoors, this “iron” façade rule may not be observed.

The final operation for installing a block house is the protective and decorative treatment of the finished surface.

Block house came to us from Europe. Thanks to the beautiful appearance and good technical specifications gained popularity. The building material is made from wood or materials replicating natural wood.

Let's look at the design features of a façade finished with a block house and describe the sequence of covering the house with wood panels.

Block house siding: design features

Block house is a popular building material used in the external and internal decoration of house walls. The surface covered with a house block resembles a wall finished with natural wood. The elements are made of wood or galvanized steel, coated with a polymer film, the shape of the elements is double or single “logs”.

Sheathing boards have a convex front wall and a flat back. The ribs are provided with tenons and grooves for joining the elements.

Before you start arranging a house from a block house, you need to understand the structure of a ventilated facade of this type. The design includes the required elements:

1. Insulation - protects the insulation from moisture vapor. The vapor barrier layer allows steam to pass towards the wall, preventing it from penetrating to the insulation.
2. Lathing - creates a cavity between the wall of the house and the block house, serves as the basis for attaching slats. The sheathing is made from wooden beam with a cross section of 100*40 mm or 50*40 mm (depending on the type of thermal insulation material). This structural element serves as a frame for attaching the block house.
3. Thermal insulation layer - polystyrene foam, mineral wool etc. The thickness of the insulation should be at least 10 cm.
4. The wind barrier is mounted on the sheathing beam and additionally protects the insulation from the humidity contained in the air.
5. The counter grille provides space between the wind barrier film and the block house. The counter-lattice is made from beams of small cross-section - 20*40 mm. If we neglect this element façade design, then the wooden slats of the block house will quickly rot.
6. External cladding - block house.

Cladding a house with a block house: photo

Advantages and disadvantages of different types of block house

The main criterion for classifying a block house is the material of manufacture. For finishing work, wood, metal and vinyl panels are often used.

In the production of a wooden block house, coniferous and deciduous wood species (cedar, pine, Siberian larch and spruce) are used. These types of wood are resistant to rot and will last a long time.

Wooden slats are made using the following technology:

1. Logs are sawn using the “square in a circle” method. The result is four blanks.
2. The workpieces are placed in a drying chamber.
3. Drying lasts about 2 weeks. If you dry the wood naturally, it will take about 6 months.

A block house made of wood has a number of advantages:

• strength - the surface of the panels can withstand high mechanical/physical stress without losing its original appearance;
• a damaged finishing element can be restored - sanded or replaced;
• the material is light in weight;
• ease of installation;
• environmentally friendly material;
• walls covered with a wooden block house “breathe” - a favorable microclimate of the room is created;
• the block house additionally insulates the house;
• high decorativeness and attractiveness of the wooden facade.

A block house made of wood needs regular cleaning and varnishing - these measures increase the moisture resistance of the material and extend the life of the cladding

The façade is often finished with metal sheets of the block house, which have some features:

• the building material is made of steel with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm;
• the steel body of the element is coated with zinc;
• from the inside metal plate it is treated with primer and paint, and a pattern imitating natural wood is applied to the front side of the house block;
• the main advantages of a metal facade are durability and high strength; a block house of this type can withstand temperature fluctuations, is resistant to moisture and does not change its characteristics under the influence of unfavorable climatic conditions;
• The metal house block has different shapes - one or two logs.

Vinyl panels contain protective reinforcing components and additional plasticizers. A vinyl block house has many of the advantages of wood panels, but it is stronger, cheaper and comes in a wide range of colors.

How to choose a material for finishing a house with a block house

Choosing a block house is not an easy task. The boards differ from each other not only in the material they are made of, but also in other parameters. When purchasing slats, it is advisable to be guided by the following tips specialists:

1. For facade work, it is necessary to use boards with a width of at least 15 cm; it is desirable that all lamellas have the same dimensions.
2. It is better to choose long boards - this will reduce the number of joints. The standard lamella length is 6 m.
3. External siding is made of a house block made of coniferous wood. Perfect option- larch.
4. Boards from the northern regions are denser - this property improves other characteristics of the material. The density of wood can be checked by annual rings. The closer they are to each other, the denser the material.
5. Not worth buying wooden boards, if they have defects: cracks, rotten knots, mold or bluish spots.
6. There must be tarring small sizes: width - about 8 mm, depth - 3 mm.
7. The permissible moisture level for wooden boards is 20%. This value must be shown on the building material certificate.
8. The packaging of the block house must be intact and without damage.

Rules for installing block house lamellas

Cladding a house with a block house with your own hands must be done in compliance with a number of rules:

1. Installation is carried out along guides, and not directly to the wall.
2. It is preferable to fix the block house using clasps or metal brackets. To fasten thick house block boards, it is better to use self-tapping screws with an anti-corrosion coating.
3. Before installation, it is advisable to keep the wooden boards indoors for several days. This will reduce the moisture content of the material.
4. During fastening, the panels are positioned so that the groove is at the bottom and the tenon is at the top. This method reduces the risk of dust/dirt accumulating in the groove and increases the service life of the sheathing.
5. A gap must be left between the floor/ceiling surface and the cladding for natural ventilation.
6. There should be a small gap between the boards. This measure will prevent deformation of the material in case of moisture and temperature changes.

Finishing the facade of a house with a block house: step-by-step progress of work

Let's look at how to properly cover a house with a block house. Let's look at the installation process using wooden panels as an example.

Tools and materials

In addition to the block house itself, other materials will be needed for work:

Important! It is better not to use polystyrene foam as insulation. This heat insulator does not combine well with wood, as it has low vapor permeability and supports combustion

Required tools:

• level;
• brush;
• hammer;
• sandpaper or sander;
• saw;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver

Preparatory activities

Before you start decorating a wooden house with a block house, you need to carry out preparatory measures.

Cladding a house with a block house

Installation of boards begins from the bottom corner, fastening of panels is horizontal. Fixing a block house using climbers:

1. Attach the clamps to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.
2. Insert the first panel into the fastener tabs. The location of the board is with the groove down.
3. Place the groove of the next panel onto the tenon located below the installed sheathing element.
4. The cladding work continues until the entire wall is covered with block house panels.

If the clamps are replaced with self-tapping screws, then before installing the boards it is necessary to prepare recesses for the fasteners. Fixation occurs in increments of 40 cm. Self-tapping screws are screwed in at an angle of 45°.

In order for the finish to have an aesthetic appearance, the screws must be disguised. Remains of wooden panels, ready-made plugs or wooden “paste” are suitable for this.

To decorate the internal corners, “boats” are suitable; special plinths or planed timber 5*5 cm are placed on the external corners. Experts recommend securing the timber before starting the sheathing - this will allow the panels of the block house to be fixed to the timber and will make the finishing as attractive as possible.

Door and window openings are decorated with platbands. The main function of platbands is to hide cracks and protect against the penetration of cold air, precipitation and debris.

You can choose decorative trims with interesting carved patterns and unusual ornaments. The shape of the platbands can be flat, round or curly. The choice depends on the style and overall facade of the house

Decorating a block house inside the house

Installation of a block house inside a house is practically no different from external cladding, but has some nuances:

• boards of small width are used for work;
• external and internal corners are fixed upon completion of installation of the block house.

Important! It is better not to use wooden panels of a block house for finishing interior walls wet rooms. Otherwise, the material must be coated with a layer of varnish.

Processing and care of block house panels

To ensure long-term use of the finish wooden houses The block house must be treated with protective coatings: stain, antiseptic, varnish, paint and mastic.

Processing sequence:

1. Prime the surface of the block house.
2. Apply a layer of varnish or clear paint.
3. Every 5-7 years the protective coating must be renewed. It is advisable to reapply the same varnish or paint, otherwise the previous layer will have to be removed with a sander.

Important! To avoid the appearance of white stripes when drying wooden panels, the tenon house block must be varnished before installation

Cladding a block house house: video