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How and with what to seal the grooves in the wall. How to cover the grooves with wiring? How to putty a wall after gating

Often, when carrying out repairs, it becomes necessary to move electrical points, which requires cutting walls to lay cables. This is not the easiest job, especially if you don’t have a good hammer drill at hand, but the process does not end there, since you not only need to punch through the technological channels, but also correctly fix them in them cable, and also correctly seal the grooves.

Tools and materials

To work you will need -

  1. -Several metal spatulas (10 and 15 cm),
  2. -Building gypsum,
  3. -Primer and brush,
  4. -Rotband type gypsum mixture.

Sealing instructions

First thing after completion installation work When gating, it is necessary to prime the technological channels for the reliability of further adhesion of the mixture and the inner walls of the grooves. The soil creates a thin film on the walls of the channel and this significantly facilitates the work in the future. If the primer is for interior work concentrated, then it must be diluted in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer with water and applied liberally with a brush to the inner walls of the punched channel.

After completing the priming, you don’t have to wait as you did before filling, but immediately begin sealing the groove channel with gypsum plaster. First, the cable is fixed, for which ordinary building plaster is used, which is mixed in a minimal amount, since it can only be worked normally for a few minutes. During this process, you should try to fasten the cable as tightly as possible at intervals of no more than 1 meter, and in places internal and external corners walls should be 3-5 cm away from the corner on both sides.

After this, gypsum plastering comes into play, which contains special polymer fillers, which allows you to avoid cracks in the walls in the future and increases the working life of the material to 1-2 hours. Technology channel is completely filled with a thick mixture over an area of ​​1-2 meters, after which the excess plaster is removed with a metal spatula moving along (!) the channel.

You can start painting a wall or ceiling with in-depth wiring immediately after the gypsum composition has set, as a rule, this is 12-24 hours.

Video

If you perceive information better on video, then we offer a short video that presents the simplest technology for sealing grooves -

Questions and answers

How long after coating the grooves with primer can they be plastered?

Immediately, since in this case the primer is needed not so much to reduce absorption and strengthen the groove bed, but to remove dust from the channel. If you want to wait, wait, but you don’t have to waste time.

At what distance from the floor (ceiling) is it better to drill?

The question is off topic - this is for electricians. Okay, 10-20 cm and write down this indentation on a piece of paper that you need to save. In this case, the risk that you will forget the location of the wiring and damage the cable while trying to hang a picture or sconce is minimal.

After renovating your home, you want to get even, smooth walls that can be covered with wallpaper, decorated with paintings and hanging shelves. To do this, you need to lay the wiring in a hidden way, placing it inside. During repairs, special recesses of the required length are formed in the walls.

You can lay the wires openly or place it in plastic cable ducts that are attached to the finished wall. But the method of hidden wiring has many advantages. A smooth, painted or wallpapered surface looks much better. In this case, there is no possibility of accidentally snagging the wires.

Why are grooves needed?

Grooves are channels in concrete or plaster for cable placement. To create such pockets, that is, grooves, you need a wall chaser - a special tool that is capable of making deep furrows in various materials. With its help, brick, plaster, concrete and other surfaces are tapped.

How do you seal the grooves for wiring?

Before starting work, you need to find out how to seal the grooves for wiring and prepare necessary tools and building materials. We must remember that we are dealing with electricity, and also follow safety precautions.

The recesses for electrical wiring are sealed with plaster. The channels with the laid cable are covered with plaster, having previously secured it in the right place.

Tools

To lay wires in a hidden way, you will need the following tools:

  • wall chaser;
  • spatula or trowel;
  • brush (width matching the recess);
  • mixing container.

The work may require tools to prepare the solution and sandpaper to level the surface. The better you prepare the surface, the easier it will be to carry out further steps of painting or wallpapering.

How to cover the wiring groove

To seal grooves under electrical wiring, the following compositions can be used to choose from.

  1. Gypsum plaster is used even in damp rooms; you can putty a channel of any depth. Drying time is 1 day.
  2. Ready-made mixtures of the following brands: “Rotband”, “Volma”, “Osnovit”. These are special materials for performing finishing works. They can be purchased in the form of dry substances, which are easily converted into a plastic mixture. Dries quickly.
  3. Gypsum or tile adhesive. This option is suitable when facing tiles are intended. In order not to purchase additional material, use adhesive intended for laying tiles.
  4. Cement-sand mortar.

Closing it up correctly

Before sealing such a pocket, you need to clean it with a brush. It is recommended to do this with safety glasses and protective clothing, since a lot of dust remains in the recesses. Then the cable is laid. After execution electrical installation work seal the electrical wiring box. If it is a gypsum solution or a ready-made mixture, it is recommended to use a spatula. It allows you to evenly distribute the composition and create a smooth surface.

If you are filling in depressions using a cement-sand composition, you need to level it with a trowel and wait until it dries completely. This mixture is difficult to distribute evenly, so sanding with sandpaper will be required. Choose paper with the coarsest grain.

Is priming necessary?

If you plan to lay tiles, priming is not necessary. If the wall will be covered with wallpaper, you need to assess its condition. When using a high-quality mixture to seal the groove, the surface will be smooth and without priming. If a cement-sand composition was used, additional primer may be needed.

Solution application technique

The plaster is applied with a spatula after installation and laying of the cable with the electricity turned off. It is recommended to plaster from top to bottom so that the flowing mixture can be leveled in time and prevent it from drying out.

Sequence of actions

It is important to correctly mix the solution with which the channels will be sealed, since the grooves in the wall with electrical wiring must be sealed evenly. A mixture that is too thin will drip down, while a mixture that is too thick will form ridges that will be visible. Therefore, it is recommended to achieve the desired consistency by trying to distribute the composition in a small area, and only after that begin large-scale work.

If necessary, the wires are fixed with alabaster during operation. If the cable protrudes from the wall and does not allow you to level the solution, you need to clean the channel again and deepen it using a grinder or hammer drill.

Greetings to all visitors! The topic of today's lesson may seem far-fetched, but in fact, few people know how to seal grooves correctly.

A groove is a groove in concrete, brick or plaster used for laying wires or pipes. It is clear that after laying the appropriate communications, this groove needs to be sealed.

It would seem that there could be something complicated here - I stuffed the solution into it and removed the excess with a spatula. But the other day I saw with my own eyes the wild horror that is depicted in the photo for the post, and I decided to write a short article about it. Sealing grooves and various kinds of holes is not a difficult task, but it still requires compliance with certain rules. Which ones?

The first rule is the need for priming

The first and most important rule is not to forget about the primer. The small area of ​​a groove or hole does not give us the right to neglect its use. But how to do this correctly? Very simple - with a brush. It needs to be thoroughly blotted in the primer and watered in small areas of the groove. Do not smear, but rather water, something like sprinkling with holy water. There is no need to skimp on the primer. This way we can treat the entire surface of a groove or hole, no matter whether it contains a pipe or a wire. Ignoring the priming process can lead to cracks and subsequent crumbling of the plaster. By the way, you need to prime not only the inside of the grooves, but also the area around them.

The grooves formed when removing plaster beacons do not need to be primed.

The second rule is a special technique for applying the solution

There are some subtleties here too. Firstly, it is advisable to fill surface defects after the soil has completely dried. Secondly, immediately before applying the plaster, it would be good to moisten the surface of the groove or pit with water, especially for brick walls, since it absorbs moisture very powerfully. This is done to reduce the shrinkage effect of the mortar, which can cause shrinkage cracks. They are not dangerous, but you don’t really want to see them. With a high degree of probability (the deeper the defect, the higher the probability), some shrinkage will still occur; in this case, you just need to repeat covering the grooves or holes again.

Thirdly, the plaster solution is not simply pushed into the furrow or hole. Movements with a spatula when applying should be directed towards its walls. In the case of a groove, we have two walls, which means that the movements should be alternately towards one and the other. Here is a picture to explain my words:

Sealing is usually carried out from the bottom up. Thus, the solution is applied alternately in the “northeast” and “northwest” directions. This is necessary so that the plaster adheres properly to the walls of the grooves. In the case of holes, the solution is applied along their perimeter using the same rule, after which the central area is already filled.

The third rule is a special technique for removing excess solution

And this is also very important. It is best to remove excess solution with a steel trowel, using its outer side, that is, the one to which the handle is attached. This method eliminates the phenomenon when the solution can be pulled behind the instrument. I recommend removing the excess not with a straight, but with a zigzag movement, which will further strengthen the adhesion of the plaster to the walls of the groove. I usually fill with plaster about linear meter grooves and then immediately remove the excess. As a rule, 2-3 “pulls” with a smoothing iron are enough.

But in the case of a hole in the surface (if its dimensions are larger than the length of the trowel), a rule is used to remove excess plaster. Removal is also carried out with zigzag movements and is carried out several times, each time in different directions from the center to the edges, so that the solution does not lag behind the walls. The tip of the rule, naturally, should be directed at right angles to the surface.

So, it seems that I have quite clearly explained how to fill surface defects correctly, and shared with you the main “tricks” of this process. Now sealing the grooves should not cause you any difficulties. Please, do not neglect this technique, otherwise you will be “admiring” the fruits of your sloppiness for a long time:

Good luck with the repair! =)

Proper sealing of grooves

It may seem to many that sealing grooves is a very simple matter, and anyone can perform this operation. But experience shows that this is far from the case. For some, the solution bulges out of the grooves, for others it cracks, for others, on the contrary, it turns out to be a depression. In addition, not everyone knows how to seal the grooves.

Let's first figure out what a stroba is. This is essentially a groove laid in brickwork, plaster, concrete or other hard building materials, for the purpose of laying communications along it. Usually these are wires or pipes. Grooves are also grooves remaining after beacons are removed from the plaster. Of course, they always need to be sealed.

Here are examples of how not to do this:

Of course, repairing defects does not require the performer to have a diploma higher education, but for good result only three must be observed simple rules.

  • Rule #1. The entire surface of the groove must be primed with a deep penetration compound. We also recommend that you read the article about priming before plastering. It’s like, well, why is this necessary, they’re narrow? But, as you understand, they contain a lot of dust. And if you try to simply cover the ditch with plaster, it will simply lie on the dust and will not stick to the walls. The ringing sound and subsequent coloring are guaranteed. You need to prime the grooves with a narrow, wide brush; do not skimp on the primer. If the brush doesn't fit into the groove well, simply spray it with primer with strokes of the brush. The main thing is not to get your hands wet, because it is quite difficult to wash off dried primer from your skin.

Important: you should prime not only the inside of the groove, but also the area around it, since the plaster solution will also fall on these places. In addition, you must wait until the soil is completely dry before sealing.

  • Rule #2. The solution for sealing the grooves is applied in a special way. First, immediately before applying the solution, the surface of the groove must be generously moistened with water. This is done in order to reduce the absorption of water from the solution. Thus, we reduce its shrinkage and prevent the appearance of shrinkage cracks. Sand-lime brick and foam concrete absorb moisture from the plaster especially strongly. But some shrinkage of the solution, as a rule, still occurs. Therefore, the actions described below must be performed twice.

For sealing, it is best to use ordinary gypsum plaster rather than alabaster. After all, the very rapid setting of alabaster is one of the main reasons for jambs when covering grooves.

How should the solution be applied? To begin with, its consistency is made a little thicker than with plaster. Again, so that less moisture leaves it and it does not sag. It is applied crosswise. That is, movements with a spatula should be directed not along the groove, but towards its walls. First to one, then to the other. This way the solution will adhere well to its entire surface.

If you are not filling up a groove, but a relatively large hole, you should first apply plaster along its perimeter and only then in the center.


Tip: it is best to move the ironing iron not straight, but in a zigzag manner. This move will additionally strengthen the adhesion of the plaster to the walls of the groove.

Again, if you need to seal not a groove, but a hole, you will have to remove the excess solution not with a trowel, but with an aluminum rule. You need to hold it the same way - at right angles to the surface. Here you already need to perform several removals. All of them are made from the center of the hole to its edges, as in the picture:

It is in this way, and not from edge to edge, that is important!

Here are three simple rules for properly sealing grooves with your own hands. By following them, you will definitely get excellent results.

How to properly seal grooves

No construction site is complete without electrical wiring. If cables are laid along the walls in grooves, then improperly sealed grooves with cables can spoil the results of the work of a large team. First of all, it is necessary to take into account that the layer of plaster or putty in the groove can be many times greater than the layer of this material on the rest of the wall surface. Consequently, the drying time of the sealed groove is significantly longer than the drying time of the rest of the wall surface. For example, if the grooves are sealed simultaneously with the wall putty using a fugenfüller, then within a day the wall may already be ready for applying the finishing putty to it, and the grooves have only just begun to set, although surface layer will appear dry. In the strob, the fugenfüller dries completely, usually within three days. If a layer of finishing putty is applied over an undried groove, then after drying it begins to prevent the evaporation of moisture from the groove, as a result of which the drying of the putty in the groove slows down significantly. In this case, the slightest deformation in the relatively thick layer of fugenfüller in the groove leads to cracks, which are transmitted to the finishing putty.

When sealing grooves, you should never try to complete the job in one pass. The same fugenfüller expands when it dries, and if it is used to seal a groove with several cables in one pass, trying to immediately level the wall, then after drying, a tubercle will form along the groove, protruding from the surface of the wall by 1 - 3 millimeters. After just two days, cleaning it off will be a big problem.

Therefore, grooves are always sealed in several passes. In the first pass, the groove is filled to 80 - 90 percent. All voids in the groove are carefully filled. If excess putty is formed, it is removed. After the putty (or cement plaster) has completely dried, the groove is sealed under the finishing putty, almost at the same level as the rest of the wall surface. When using dry plaster mixture M-150 to seal grooves, it is advisable to add a small amount of M500 cement to it, which will ensure increased hardness of the plaster layer above the cables.

Often, rough sealing of grooves is carried out by electricians who, without having the proper skills plastering work, the grooves are not primed before embedding, which reduces the reliability of adhesion of the material filling the groove to the wall.

Grooves cut with a double-disc wall chaser. it is much easier to repair than those knocked out with a hammer drill. Therefore, it is always necessary to purchase modern, high-quality equipment. If there are a large number of grooves, a double-disc wall chaser will pay for itself even due to the lower consumption of plaster and putty required to seal the grooves.

After sealing the grooves, plastering and painting work is carried out, as a result of which the terminal boxes on the walls in which the conductor connections are made often become inaccessible. Although, in accordance with the requirements of the standards, it is necessary to provide access to the connections of wires and cable cores. You can read more about this problem and ways to solve it in the article Typical violations of electrical installation rules.

How to seal grooves in a wall

Often, when carrying out repairs, it becomes necessary to move electrical points, which requires cutting walls to lay cables. This is not the easiest job, especially if you don’t have a good hammer drill at hand, but the process does not end there, since you not only need to punch through the technological channels, but also correctly fix them in them cable, and also correctly seal the grooves .

Tools and materials

To work you will need -

  1. -Several metal spatulas (10 and 15 cm),
  2. -Building gypsum,
  3. -Primer and brush,
  4. -Rotband type gypsum mixture.

Sealing instructions

The first step, after completing the installation work on gating, is to prime the technological channels for the reliability of further adhesion of the mixture and the inner walls of the grooves. The soil creates a thin film on the walls of the channel and this significantly facilitates the work in the future. If the primer for interior work is concentrated, then it must be diluted in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer with water and applied liberally with a brush to the inner walls of the broken channel.

After completing the priming, you don’t have to wait as you did before filling, but immediately begin sealing the groove channel with gypsum plaster. First, the cable is fixed, for which ordinary building plaster is used, which is mixed in a minimal amount, since it can only be worked normally for a few minutes. During this process, you should try to fasten the cable as tightly as possible at intervals of no more than 1 meter, and in places of internal and external corners of the walls you should retreat from the corner 3-5 cm on both sides.

After this, gypsum plaster comes into play. which contains special polymer fillers, which allows you to avoid cracks on the walls in the future and increases the working life of the material to 1-2 hours. The technological channel is completely filled with a thick mixture over an area of ​​1-2 meters, after which the excess plaster is removed with a metal spatula moving along (!) the channel.

You can start painting a wall or ceiling with in-depth wiring immediately after the gypsum composition has set, as a rule, this is 12-24 hours.

Video

If you perceive information better on video, then we offer a short video that presents the simplest technology for sealing grooves -

Questions and answers

How long after coating the grooves with primer can they be plastered?

Immediately, since in this case the primer is needed not so much to reduce absorption and strengthen the groove bed, but to remove dust from the channel. If you want to wait, wait, but you don’t have to waste time.

We close the grooves correctly

Greetings to all visitors! The topic of today's lesson may seem far-fetched, but in fact, few people know how to seal grooves correctly.

A groove is a groove in concrete, brick or plaster used for laying wires or pipes. It is clear that after laying the appropriate communications, this groove needs to be sealed.

It would seem that there could be something complicated here - I stuffed the solution into it and removed the excess with a spatula. But the other day I saw with my own eyes the wild horror that is depicted in the photo for the post, and I decided to write a short article about it. Sealing grooves and various kinds of holes is not a difficult task, but it still requires compliance with certain rules. Which ones?

The first rule is the need for priming

The first and most important rule is not to forget about the primer. The small area of ​​a groove or hole does not give us the right to neglect its use. But how to do this correctly? Very simple - with a brush. It needs to be thoroughly blotted in the primer and watered in small areas of the groove. Do not smear, but rather water, something like sprinkling with holy water. There is no need to skimp on the primer. This way we can treat the entire surface of a groove or hole, no matter whether it contains a pipe or a wire. Ignoring the priming process can lead to cracks and subsequent crumbling of the plaster. By the way, you need to prime not only the inside of the grooves, but also the area around them.

The second rule is a special technique for applying the solution

Sealing grooves and grouting boxes - which is better?

07/21/2007 at 03:12 #11

User J.Walker wrote:

I added 15-20% heat to the alabaster before mixing. Slows down hardening from 3 to 10-15 minutes. It's more convenient to work. Spend less time kneading and washing plaster.

You can also use entirely plaster (the savings between alabaster and Rotband/Teplon are meager). I still have all the distribution boxes and socket boxes laid out first (tens or hundreds of them), so in these few hours everything will have time to set and the wiring can be laid out.

User Vladimir_Vas wrote:

Sources:

Fight against rats and mice: To get rid of rats or mice you need to make balls from special dough and put them in their habitats. Melt two parts of fat, add seven parts of flour and three parts of barium carbonate.

24.11.2013, 19:28

24.11.2013, 21:20

Quote(Fuel @ 11/24/2013, 9:37 pm)

find another plasterer (normal) - otherwise many more questions will arise

and she herself needs to blow out the extra holes)))

Costa Rica

24.11.2013, 23:09

Quote(fredigar @ 11/24/2013, 9:28 pm)

Then Fuck all the putty Will fall off to hell and take off the Wallpaper!

in the second photo, the white one connects two boxes, and in the third, the old wiring

Too kind

25.11.2013, 21:27

Because they don’t seal the grooves in the walls polyurethane foam:)
That’s why it’s called an installation room because it’s used when installing doors and windows. I don’t know how to explain, but I covered my grooves with a rotband. Well, even if you foam it, then you will have to cut it evenly in order to paste the wallpaper.

26.11.2013, 23:54

After wiring the electrics, there were impressively sized cavities in the walls, please advise what is the best way to seal them? The plasterer says seal it yourself with foam, a friend says foam is expensive, better with a rotband, in the end what is the correct way and should it be primed and in what order?
Should I cover the cable with corrugation or something else?

It is best to seal the grooves with gypsum plaster (optimally Rotband). It is not necessary to prime, so as not to spend extra money on primer. Well, if you don’t mind the money, then it’s natural to prime it first, then plaster it. It is advisable to remove grooving products in the form of dust and dirt from horizontal grooves, especially from deep grooves, before covering them. There is no need to cover it with corrugation. If the grooves are deep, then the cable could be laid in a corrugation along the entire length of the groove, with the prospect of changing it if something happens, but only if it can be pulled out of the embedded corrugation.

Costa Rica

29.11.2013, 9:53

The plasterer said if you put some pebbles and cover them up

I saw some interference with the cement.. But they were plastering the walls.. TS, what’s the problem? Is Rotband expensive? Take an alternative such as Osnovit

Costa Rica

29.11.2013, 17:47

I wouldn’t have delved into this issue at all if it weren’t for the plasterer, who told me that very large depressions need to be sealed with something

29.11.2013, 18:10

29.11.2013, 18:21

Quote(Mikh@il @ 11.29.2013, 19:10)

Then buy MP75 if you want to save money. Well, or a more expensive gold band.

Quote(Costa Rica @ 11/29/2013, 6:47 pm)

Yes, everything has already been covered up by the Rotband, calm down

Great topic)))

29.11.2013, 20:15

Quote(V@Dik @ 11.29.2013, 21:02)

you have a lousy plasterer biggrin.gif

I agree))). Before it’s too late, find someone else.

What is the best way to fasten the wire in
Strobe? On the website http://krepcom.ru/blog/sposoby-krepleniya/chem-krepit-provod-v-shtrobe/
I read some advice
I don't know which is better. Tell
how correct.

24.11.2013, 20:28

Quote(Costa Rica @ 24.11.2013, 20:28)

Should I cover the cable with corrugation or something else?

depends on which one is installed, look at the cable markings, then check its characteristics on the Internet for in-wall installation, especially interested in the white wire.

and one more thing - how many wires are there in the groove in the last photo? Aren't there a lot of them thrown together there? Maybe you should first widen the groove and secure them separately? Quote(Costa Rica @ 11/24/2013, 11:09 pm)

explain in more detail why? what about the doorway? he's covered in foam

then the trim is installed, not the wallpaper Quote (igorok @ 11/25/2013, 10:35 pm)

Cement-sand mixture, and handles...

this is cement with granulated sugar what? if you meant a cement-sand mixture, then it would be easier to use foam Quote (Costa Rica @ 11/29/2013, 10:53)

I’ve never heard of adding pebbles to a rotband
I think it’s not worth saving on Rotband
My mind is blown!
If I were thinking about how to cover up the groove...... Quote (Costa Rica @ 11/29/2013, 10:53)

Thanks for the answers, well, since you can’t use foam, can you mix Rotband with something?

How to properly seal the grooves with mortar after installing the electrical wiring?

the plasterer said if you put some pebbles and cover them up


Why all this complexity? saving on material? Quote(Costa Rica @ 11/29/2013, 10:53)

Thanks for the answers, well, since you can’t use foam, can you mix Rotband with something?

The miser pays twice. Lay the foam rubber, and do not forget about the reinforcing bandage. Quote(ODYS @ 11/29/2013, 11:58)

If I were thinking about how to cover the groove......

1
Quote (VaNyoK @ 11/29/2013, 12:09)

Why all this complexity? saving on material?

On the topic - I did the ditching myself, I laid out the wiring myself, I did it myself sand covered it up at home...

You're a lousy plasterer Quote (VaNyoK @ 11/29/2013, 11:09)

oooo.... Maybe add some sand? sugar... =)))

By the way, the finishers I know plaster large volumes with a rotband and sand in half, I once adopted their experience - plastering with such a mixture is no worse than just a rotband, only then putty with steam because of the stones that come across in the sand, but under the tiles in the bathtub with nothing I’m in the way, suddenly Quote (Fuel @ 11/29/2013, 11:38 pm)

By the way, familiar finishers plaster large volumes with rotband and sand in half


So you can sift the sand... Quote (VaNyoK @ 12/1/2013, 9:20)

a kilo of rotbant is cheaper than a kilo of sugar)))
So you can sift the sand...

Yes, it’s probably easier to pick up pebbles than to sow half a ton of sand)), it is advisable if the layer of plaster is 5-10 cm, this also happens)

To view the full version of this page, please follow the link.

Proper sealing of grooves


  • Rule #2. The solution for sealing the grooves is applied in a special way. First, immediately before applying the solution, the surface of the groove must be generously moistened with water. This is done in order to reduce the absorption of water from the solution. Thus, we reduce its shrinkage and prevent the appearance of shrinkage cracks. Sand-lime brick and foam concrete absorb moisture from the plaster especially strongly. But some shrinkage of the solution, as a rule, still occurs. Therefore, the actions described below must be performed twice.

How should the solution be applied?

How to seal grooves for wiring - step-by-step instructions

To begin with, its consistency is made a little thicker than with plaster. Again, so that less moisture leaves it and it does not sag. It is applied crosswise. That is, movements with a spatula should be directed not along the groove, but towards its walls. First to one, then to the other. This way the solution will adhere well to its entire surface.


How to seal grooves in a wall

Tools and materials

To work you will need -

  1. -Building gypsum,
  2. -Primer and brush,
  3. -Rotband type gypsum mixture.

Sealing instructions

Video

Questions and answers

We close the grooves correctly

07/21/2007 at 03:12 #11

User Vladimir_Vas wrote:

Unscrewing a rusty screw: If you need to unscrew very old and rusty wood screws, you need to bring an electric soldering iron to the head, slightly heat the screws and repeat the unscrewing process.

Cleaning leather items: If you need to clean a leather jacket or hat, take an onion. Peel until the bulb darkens, then cut off the dirty layer and continue peeling.

How to seal grooves with wiring

Proper sealing of grooves

It may seem to many that sealing grooves is a very simple matter, and anyone can perform this operation. But experience shows that this is far from the case. For some, the solution bulges out of the grooves, for others it cracks, for others, on the contrary, it turns out to be a depression. In addition, not everyone knows how to seal the grooves.

Let's first figure out what a stroba is. It is essentially a groove cut into masonry, plaster, concrete or other hard building materials for the purpose of running utilities through it. Usually these are wires or pipes. Grooves are also grooves remaining after beacons are removed from the plaster. Of course, they always need to be sealed.

Here are examples of how not to do this:

Of course, repairing defects does not require the performer to have a higher education diploma, but for a good result, you must follow only three simple rules.

  • Rule #1. The entire surface of the groove must be primed with a deep penetration compound. We also recommend that you read the article about priming before plastering. It’s like, well, why is this necessary, they’re narrow? But, as you understand, they contain a lot of dust. And if you try to simply cover the ditch with plaster, it will simply lie on the dust and will not stick to the walls. The ringing sound and subsequent coloring are guaranteed. You need to prime the grooves with a narrow, wide brush; do not skimp on the primer. If the brush doesn't fit into the groove well, simply spray it with primer with strokes of the brush. The main thing is not to get your hands wet, because it is quite difficult to wash off dried primer from your skin.

Important: you should prime not only the inside of the groove, but also the area around it, since the plaster solution will also fall on these places. In addition, you must wait until the soil is completely dry before sealing.

  • Rule #2. The solution for sealing the grooves is applied in a special way.

    How to seal wiring grooves?

    First, immediately before applying the solution, the surface of the groove must be generously moistened with water. This is done in order to reduce the absorption of water from the solution. Thus, we reduce its shrinkage and prevent the appearance of shrinkage cracks. Sand-lime brick and foam concrete absorb moisture from the plaster especially strongly. But some shrinkage of the solution, as a rule, still occurs. Therefore, the actions described below must be performed twice.

For sealing, it is best to use ordinary gypsum plaster rather than alabaster. After all, the very rapid setting of alabaster is one of the main reasons for jambs when covering grooves.

How should the solution be applied? To begin with, its consistency is made a little thicker than with plaster. Again, so that less moisture leaves it and it does not sag. It is applied crosswise. That is, movements with a spatula should be directed not along the groove, but towards its walls. First to one, then to the other. This way the solution will adhere well to its entire surface.

If you are not filling up a groove, but a relatively large hole, you should first apply plaster along its perimeter and only then in the center.


Tip: it is best to move the ironing iron not straight, but in a zigzag manner. This move will additionally strengthen the adhesion of the plaster to the walls of the groove.

Again, if you need to seal not a groove, but a hole, you will have to remove the excess solution not with a trowel, but with an aluminum rule. You need to hold it the same way - at right angles to the surface. Here you already need to perform several removals. All of them are made from the center of the hole to its edges, as in the picture:

It is in this way, and not from edge to edge, that is important!

Here are three simple rules for properly sealing grooves with your own hands. By following them, you will definitely get excellent results.

How to properly seal grooves

No construction site is complete without electrical wiring. If cables are laid along the walls in grooves, then improperly sealed grooves with cables can spoil the results of the work of a large team. First of all, it is necessary to take into account that the layer of plaster or putty in the groove can be many times greater than the layer of this material on the rest of the wall surface. Consequently, the drying time of the sealed groove is significantly longer than the drying time of the rest of the wall surface. For example, if the grooves are sealed simultaneously with the wall putty using a fugenfüller, then in a day the wall may already be ready for the finishing putty to be applied to it, and the grooves have only just begun to set, although the surface layer will seem to be dry. In the strob, the fugenfüller dries completely, usually within three days. If a layer of finishing putty is applied over an undried groove, then after drying it begins to prevent the evaporation of moisture from the groove, as a result of which the drying of the putty in the groove slows down significantly. In this case, the slightest deformation in the relatively thick layer of fugenfüller in the groove leads to cracks, which are transmitted to the finishing putty.

When sealing grooves, you should never try to complete the job in one pass. The same fugenfüller expands when it dries, and if it is used to seal a groove with several cables in one pass, trying to immediately level the wall, then after drying, a tubercle will form along the groove, protruding from the surface of the wall by 1 - 3 millimeters. After just two days, cleaning it off will be a big problem.

Therefore, grooves are always sealed in several passes. In the first pass, the groove is filled to 80 - 90 percent. All voids in the groove are carefully filled. If excess putty is formed, it is removed. After the putty (or cement plaster) has completely dried, the groove is sealed under the finishing putty, almost at the same level as the rest of the wall surface. When using dry plaster mixture M-150 to seal grooves, it is advisable to add a small amount of M500 cement to it, which will ensure increased hardness of the plaster layer above the cables.

Often the rough sealing of grooves is carried out by electricians who, not having the proper skills in plastering work, do not prime the grooves before sealing, which reduces the reliability of adhesion of the material filling the groove to the wall.

Grooves cut with a double-disc wall chaser. it is much easier to repair than those knocked out with a hammer drill. Therefore, it is always necessary to purchase modern, high-quality equipment. If there are a large number of grooves, a double-disc wall chaser will pay for itself even due to the lower consumption of plaster and putty required to seal the grooves.

After sealing the grooves, plastering and painting work is carried out, as a result of which the terminal boxes on the walls in which the conductor connections are made often become inaccessible. Although, in accordance with the requirements of the standards, it is necessary to provide access to the connections of wires and cable cores. You can read more about this problem and ways to solve it in the article Typical violations of electrical installation rules.

How to seal grooves in a wall

Often, when carrying out repairs, it becomes necessary to move electrical points, which requires cutting walls to lay cables. This is not the easiest job, especially if you don’t have a good hammer drill at hand, but the process does not end there, since you not only need to punch through the technological channels, but also correctly secure the cable in them, and also correctly seal the grooves.

Tools and materials

To work you will need -

  1. -Several metal spatulas (10 and 15 cm),
  2. -Building gypsum,
  3. -Primer and brush,
  4. -Rotband type gypsum mixture.

Sealing instructions

The first step, after completing the installation work on gating, is to prime the technological channels for the reliability of further adhesion of the mixture and the inner walls of the grooves. The soil creates a thin film on the walls of the channel and this significantly facilitates the work in the future. If the primer for interior work is concentrated, then it must be diluted in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer with water and applied liberally with a brush to the inner walls of the broken channel.

After completing the priming, you don’t have to wait as you did before filling, but immediately begin sealing the groove channel with gypsum plaster. First, the cable is fixed, for which ordinary building plaster is used, which is mixed in a minimal amount, since it can only be worked normally for a few minutes. During this process, you should try to fasten the cable as tightly as possible at intervals of no more than 1 meter, and in places of internal and external corners of the walls you should retreat from the corner 3-5 cm on both sides.

After this, gypsum plaster comes into play. which contains special polymer fillers, which allows you to avoid cracks on the walls in the future and increases the working life of the material to 1-2 hours. The technological channel is completely filled with a thick mixture over an area of ​​1-2 meters, after which the excess plaster is removed with a metal spatula moving along (!) the channel.

You can start painting a wall or ceiling with in-depth wiring immediately after the gypsum composition has set, as a rule, this is 12-24 hours.

Video

If you perceive information better on video, then we offer a short video that presents the simplest technology for sealing grooves -

Questions and answers

How long after coating the grooves with primer can they be plastered?

Immediately, since in this case the primer is needed not so much to reduce absorption and strengthen the groove bed, but to remove dust from the channel. If you want to wait, wait, but you don’t have to waste time.

We close the grooves correctly

Greetings to all visitors! The topic of today's lesson may seem far-fetched, but in fact, few people know how to seal grooves correctly.

A groove is a groove in concrete, brick or plaster used for laying wires or pipes. It is clear that after laying the appropriate communications, this groove needs to be sealed.

It would seem that there could be something complicated here - I stuffed the solution into it and removed the excess with a spatula. But the other day I saw with my own eyes the wild horror that is depicted in the photo for the post, and I decided to write a short article about it. Sealing grooves and various kinds of holes is not a difficult task, but it still requires compliance with certain rules. Which ones?

The first rule is the need for priming

The first and most important rule is not to forget about the primer. The small area of ​​a groove or hole does not give us the right to neglect its use. But how to do this correctly? Very simple - with a brush. It needs to be thoroughly blotted in the primer and watered in small areas of the groove. Do not smear, but rather water, something like sprinkling with holy water. There is no need to skimp on the primer. This way we can treat the entire surface of a groove or hole, no matter whether it contains a pipe or a wire. Ignoring the priming process can lead to cracks and subsequent crumbling of the plaster. By the way, you need to prime not only the inside of the grooves, but also the area around them.

The second rule is a special technique for applying the solution

Sealing grooves and grouting boxes - which is better?

07/21/2007 at 03:12 #11

User J.Walker wrote:

User Vladimir_Vas wrote:

I added 15-20% heat to the alabaster before mixing. Slows down hardening from 3 to 10-15 minutes. It's more convenient to work. Spend less time kneading and washing plaster.

You can also use entirely plaster (the savings between alabaster and Rotband/Teplon are meager). I still have all the distribution boxes and socket boxes laid out first (tens or hundreds of them), so in these few hours everything will have time to set and the wiring can be laid out.

User Vladimir_Vas wrote:

Fight against rats and mice: To get rid of rats or mice you need to make balls from special dough and put them in their habitats. Melt two parts of fat, add seven parts of flour and three parts of barium carbonate.

Itching from mosquito bites: To eliminate itching from mosquito bites, you can smear the bite areas with ammonia.

 


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