When homeowners are constructing fencing around their properties or in the process of constructing garages, the need to solve the problem of building a gate always arises. First of all, it is necessary to accurately determine the appropriate type of gate. In this matter, an important role is played by the calculation of the smallest nuances, since situations often arise when, after installing the gate, you have to do additional work to arrange your site. It is for this reason that the design features of various types of gates should be studied before purchasing materials.

• Recoil;
• Swing;
• Lift-and-swivel.

Each such design has its own specific differences, so it is necessary to study them separately.

DIY swing gates

Construction stages:

1. Installation of hanging racks.
2. Making the gate itself.

The sequence, of course, can always change.

The following materials can be used as racks:

• Profile pipe with a certain cross-section;
• Reinforced concrete pillars;
• Masonry made of brick or natural stone. In most cases, stone is used for cladding purposes;
• Ordinary wooden beam.

Let's consider the existing methods of installing poles:

• Metal pipes are buried in the ground to a depth of approximately 1.5 m. This technique will always differ from others in terms of financial benefits and time savings. There is also always the possibility of emergency replacement of the rack. To avoid misalignment, it is recommended to strictly maintain the same level when burying pillars;
• Equipment of a kind of concrete foundation as a base for pillars.

More attention should be paid to the second installation method.

Sequencing

• Using an earth drill, a pit is dug, the minimum depth of which should be 1 m;
• A special cushion for concrete made of sand and crushed stone with a thickness of 150-200 mm is equipped. Such a platform is necessary so that the rack never deepens;
• The pillar is installed and gradually leveled using a regular building level;
• The stand is poured with concrete.

To assemble the gate, you need to determine the size of the upcoming structure. To simplify the work, it is recommended to create a drawing in which all dimensions will be indicated.

After this, you can begin manufacturing parts for the frame according to pre-made drawings. When performing welding work, you should always remember safety precautions. It is advisable to entrust this matter to a qualified specialist. You should always remember that the number of stiffeners largely determines the resistance of future gates to external weather conditions. If pipes are used as racks, it is advisable to prevent water from entering them.

Gates can also be decorated with products made by cold forging. After the gate is assembled, you can put it on the hinges.

We list the main advantages of swing gates

• Economical;
• Relative ease of installation;
• All stages of installation can be carried out on your own without much difficulty;
• To make such a structure, different materials can be used.

Disadvantages of swing gates

In general, installing swing gates is not difficult.

DIY sliding gates

Sliding gates are a little more difficult to install. When equipping such a structure, brick pillars are placed on both sides, on which rollers are fixed, holding brackets and fixing elements at a certain height.

The main weight should always be supported by the channel, which is fixed to a securely installed foundation on the inside of the gate or to iron supports.

You can install a solid foundation or several strong pillars under the channel. For the foundation, you will have to equip a pit, at the bottom of which there will be a cushion of crushed stone and sand. After this, formwork with waterproofing is placed in the pit. A reinforcing grid is installed in the formwork, after which concrete is poured into the pit.

A channel with reinforcement is mounted on a concrete foundation. This element is strongly pressed into the solution until it is completely immersed. When the concrete hardens completely, you will get a fairly strong iron platform. Only after the concrete has hardened and the channel has been installed are the gates themselves installed.

For the frame, you can use a square pipe or an ordinary iron corner. Additional stiffening ribs are necessarily welded to the square frame to increase the stability of the created structure. Each weld seam must be cleaned of the resulting slag. The frame is primed and then covered with a special paint that can protect against corrosion. Only after this can corrugated sheeting be installed on the frame.

When all the constituent elements of the structure are prepared, and the foundation with the built-in cantilever channel becomes strong enough, you can begin attaching the components of the sliding system.

Installation of a sliding system

Cantilever beams are mounted at different heights. When developing such structures, sizing must be done with particular accuracy, since the console can be deformed even with the smallest errors.

The disadvantages of sliding gates include only 2 features

1. Compared to swing gates, sliding gates are a little more expensive.
2. To be able to roll back, you will need a little space along the fence.

We list the main advantages of such gates

More information on installing sliding gates can be found in this video:

Installation of overhead gates

First of all, it is necessary to design the lifting and turning system. To do this, you need to change the dimensions of the opening and draw up a suitable sketch yourself or find a suitable drawing. After purchasing all the components and tools, you can begin installation, which consists of the following steps:

After the assembly is completed, finishing and painting work can be carried out. There should be a special groove for the seal at the bottom of the profile.

Advantages

The disadvantages of lift-and-turn systems include

More information about installing lift and slide systems can be found by looking at this
video:

To ensure the safety of a residential premises or industrial facility, it is customary these days to install fences and gates. Today, modern homeowners use three main gate assembly technologies. The essence of technology lies in the way it is discovered. Collecting any variety with your own hands will not be difficult for anyone.

Owners of private houses and garages have long appreciated the convenience of swing-type entrance gates.

This is natural, because such a design was almost the only one for hundreds of years.

Ease of operation and reliability have always been at a premium. Even now, summer residents and cottage owners continue to improve their design.

And if previously these were basically wooden blind gates, then their modern type can be represented by a high-tech automated complex.

Types and types of swing gates

As noted above, swing entrance gates, depending on the material, can be of two types: wooden and metal. By design, it is customary to distinguish gates with two floors (double-leaf) and with one hollow (leaf).

Very often, especially in the construction of gates for garages, hangars and warehouses, a combined type is used - double-floor gates with a wicket. This saves space and materials for a separate entrance. But in most cases they are made as “blind” elements, and only in some places (government institutions, hospitals, etc.) can you find forged, lattice or tubular swing gates with an entrance to them.

Another type of gate is a metal swing gate with two wings using artistic decoration and (or) lined with painted profiled sheeting. The gate floors have a lightweight appearance, and the entrance (wicket) is made next to them.

This type is perfect for a private home. It is widely used because it lasts for decades and requires virtually no repairs, unlike its wooden counterparts. Additionally, the design can be equipped with automation, which will further increase their functionality.

Swing gate device

Let's look at a drawing of a typical gate design made from corrugated sheets. It is based on a frame made from the profile of a square or ordinary pipe with a diameter of 20 to 40 mm. Each leaf can have one or two horizontal veins to enhance the rigidity of the structure (Scheme 1).

Other options are also possible, for example one horizontal and two diagonals. This arrangement clearly maintains the geometry of the gate (diagram 2).

Any owner can make swing gates with his own hands, provided he has sufficient skills in assembling metal structures. You will need to be able to use a welding machine, drill, grinder, screwdriver and measuring instruments. May also need painting.

Each gate leaf is screwed onto self-tapping screws or welded onto hinges to the posts. Two hinges with a diameter of 20 or 30 mm are enough per sash. The pillars are also made in the form of a metal pipe with a diameter of 70 -76 mm, or a profiled pipe 20 x 40 mm.

Iron pipes (hanging post) can be used directly as a gate support, but depending on the design of the fence, they are mounted in brick (concrete) columns. To do this, you need to provide two embedded parts in the brickwork, onto which the hinged gate posts are welded. For diagonals (slanted) and transverse, it is recommended to use a profile of 20 x 20 or 20 x 40 mm.

Practice has established that the optimal width for private entrance gates can be considered 3 meters. This is quite enough for any car or truck. If you want to save money, then you should not reduce the size by more than 20 cm. The height of the gate in most cases, excluding the rise above the ground, is equal to two meters.

The gate locking mechanism, as a rule, consists of an “L” shaped pin (stopper) located at the bottom of each gate. At the base of the ground in the place where the gate is fixed, holes are provided from pipes, the internal diameter of which is 5-10 mm greater than the thickness of the stopper. There are no strict restrictions on the length, but it is still advisable to make them no more than 50 cm. In addition to the stoppers, you can provide a horizontal shutter, transverse along the line.

As already mentioned, the simplest and most practical option for finishing gates is lining them with corrugated sheets. The corrugated sheeting will fit organically into the overall design if the fence is kept in the same style. Typically, corrugated sheets are attached to gates at a distance of 5-7 cm from the level (base).

Gate automation

So far we have looked at the design of a conventional swing gate. But what if you suddenly get tired of manually constantly opening and closing the doors, or for some reason you want to modernize them. For this case, design engineers developed so-called linear electric drives (automation).

This system consists directly of the linear electric drives themselves (2 pieces), as well as a control unit, warning lamp, antenna and electromagnetic lock. Automatic swing gates are powered by a regular household AC voltage of 220 W. In the photo, all elements of the system fit elegantly into the original antique design of the gate.

It is very important to provide supporting pillars in advance before installing the automation. As in the previous examples, it is advisable to make them from concrete, or even better from brick.

There are three options for installing automatic gates depending on the opening direction of the gate: outward, inward, and inward with modification of the supporting pillars. In each of them, installation of automation is carried out in a certain sequence. In our case, external installation may be required, or the latter option (for the future), since we initially considered the option for future automation.

The location of the system control unit may be different (left or right), it is important to select the correct wire cross-sections. The figure below shows an approximate diagram of the arrangement of system elements and wire cross-section.

The drive for installation has a special feature; for it, a special distance from the supporting pole must be provided. If this is not provided and the gate needs to be made inward, as in our case, then you just need to carefully hollow out and arrange the places for it.

The price of linear drives ranges from 23 to 36,000 rubles. For example, an electric drive from DoorHan Swing-5000 (up to 5 meters) costs around 25 thousand.

Assembly and installation technology for swing gates

Gates should be made in stationary conditions on the ground and a leveled surface (carriage). The dimensions of your gate must exactly match the design drawings. That is, all workpieces must be sawed off with a grinder with a tolerance of 1 mm. Then, checking the right angles, they weld the parts of the future perimeter of the gate leaves, and then the crossbars and diagonals.

The markings for the hinges are made at a distance of at least 30 - 40 cm from the edge of the frame and then welded to it. Hinges can be bought in a store or ordered from a lathe. Then they bring up the hanging pole and do the same actions with welding, using the tack method.

If everything is exactly the right size, the loop is completely scalded. You don’t have to use welding, but then you’ll have to screw each canopy through thick steel onto self-tapping screws. After painting the metal, you can screw the corrugated sheet with screws and a press washer.

The installation of swing gates begins with marking the support (concrete or brick) pillars along the centers of the main axis of the gate. At the base of the pillars, an iron pipe with a diameter of 100 mm must be mounted on the concrete. It must be dug to a depth of 130 -150 cm. This is best done using an auger (drill) of the appropriate diameter, leaving a space for pouring concrete of approximately 10 cm around the circumference.

When setting up the base of a brick pillar, use a level and check the vertical in both planes. A gap of 20 mm is required between the gates, which can be covered from the outside with a metal strip 50 mm wide. So tolerance is necessary, because on hot days, when heated, the metal expands, and your gate may simply jam. Homemade swing gates will look no worse than their factory counterparts if you approach the process of assembling them wisely.

There are many options for gate design, but it is simply impossible to describe them all. Each case is individual and therefore the manufacture of swing gates can be called a creative process, where each owner can implement his own ideas or take existing ones.

Do-it-yourself sliding gates - drawings, diagrams, installation and design details. We have made 100% free sliding gate drawings for you.
You no longer need to scour the Internet in search of sensible drawings, stumbling upon ancient drawings that are devoid of practical meaning, you don’t need to give your Viber or other messenger so that sectarian managers will call you for months. There is no need to buy components at exorbitant prices from companies that promise a “free” drawing when you purchase their product, etc.

"HOW TO MAKE SLIDING GATES WITH YOUR OWN HANDS"

We tried to create a database of sliding gate drawings so that every user who decides to make a sliding gate with their own hands can easily find useful information for themselves. You can find out the general theory about the design of sliding gates in the article sliding gate diagram. It is better to view the drawings on a large-diagonal tablet, desktop computer, or print it out.

BUY SLIDING GATE ACCESSORIES.

A few words on how to use the database. Let's say you have a classic opening 4 m wide. Find a drawing in the range that your opening falls into and feel free to make a gate along it. The fact is that sliding gates must cover the opening in each direction by 100-200mm. Firstly, the gaps are closed, and secondly, such overlap is necessary for proper fixation of the gate with catchers and an upper limiter. In the drawings, the covering of the opening with a sash is indicated - D, there is never too much of it, there is only a little. This is another important advantage of sliding gates - it’s harder to “mess up”
That is, for an opening of 3.9 m and 4.1 m, the sash will be the same, only parameter D will differ, 200 mm and 100 mm, respectively, which is within normal limits. For the required opening of 4 m, the covering will be 150 mm in each direction, which is excellent.
If your opening is, say, 4.15 m, then do it either like 4.1 or like 4.2, it will still work out correctly.

BUY AUTOMATION FOR SLIDING GATES PRICE

Regarding the height of the gate. The database contains drawings for an opening 2 m high from the level of the finished floor; if you have more or less than 2 m, then add or subtract the desired distance from the frame heights and that’s it.
Example: let’s say the height of your gate from zero (in the drawings - H) is not 2m, but 2.5m.
Add 500mm to all heights. and we get: H=2500mm, H2=2430mm, H1=2370, h3=2310mm, h4=2230mm. All.
The same thing applies to the direction of opening - the database contains gates that open to the left, when viewed from the yard; with a right opening, everything will be the opposite without any design changes.

HOW TO CHOOSE THE CORRECT ACCESSORIES FOR SLIDING GATES.

The recommended fittings for sliding gates with a width of 3-5.4 m are SP PREMIER STANDART-500. Your gate will move easily, smoothly and silently. That's how it is in the video.
With fittings from another manufacturer, such a smooth and quiet gate operation may not be possible.

As they say, feel the difference. Gates with fittings from one brand widely advertised on the Internet:

FREE DRAWINGS OF SLIDING GATES:
Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 3.0-3.2 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 3.3-3.5 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 3.6-3.8 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 3.9-4.1 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 4.2-4.4 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 4.5-4.7 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 4.8-5.0 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 5.2-5.4 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 5.5-5.7 m (click to enlarge)
Please note that from this gate size onwards a large guide 94x85x5 is used.
Recommended fittings for gates with a width of 5.4-10 m are STRONG-800 or Roll Grand #1 up to 800 kg.

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 5.8-6.0 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 6.0-10.0 m (click to enlarge)

For such gates, fitting kits for 800 kg with a guide 94x85 and a wall thickness of 5 mm are also used. We recommend STRONG-800 or Roll Grand #1 up to 800 kg.
The technology and methodology remain the same. We calculate the length of the gate structure using the formula: Lopening*1.5+200mm. Where Lopening is the clear width of the opening, the length of the counterweight is 0.5 from Lopening, 200mm is covering the opening with a canvas of 100mm on each side. For such large gates, it is highly advisable to make the counterweight part equal to half the opening. That's all the nuances.

In this article we will tell you about the main secrets and nuances of manufacturing sliding gates. Sliding gates are the best solution for organizing entry into a yard or enterprise territory. Let's consider their advantages: simple kinematics - sliding gates move (roll away) along the fence, requiring less labor to opening and closing are easily and cheaply automated, do not require fixation in the open position - they will not be closed unexpectedly, for example, by the wind, as happens with swing gates. To manufacture sliding gates, special components are required - the so-called fittings for sliding gates or otherwise sliding gate mechanism.
In addition, sliding gates, unlike classic swing gates, require space for rolling back the door leaf and a special foundation. See fig.

To calculate how much space is needed to roll back the gate, you need to multiply the clear width of the opening by 1.4. In other words, the space for sliding should be 40% greater than the width of the opening, since sliding gates consist of a door leaf and a counterweight, the length of which is 40% of the door leaf.

If your site meets these conditions, then you can get down to business. If there is a shortage of space, then the minimum possible length of the counterweight for normal operation of the gate will be 33% less; it is no longer possible - the gate will peck and it will be difficult to “walk”; if there is no space at all, then we must admit that sliding gates cannot be installed and it is worth considering other types, for example, swing, roller, etc. Sliding gates with a wicket - these nuances are described.

So, if everything is in order with the place for the sliding gate, then we proceed to constructing the opening for the sliding gate. First, you need to install pillars enclosing the opening, we will not dwell on this in detail because everything is clear here, we will only note that the pillars should not wobble, be concreted taking into account the depth of soil freezing, and also mortgages (3 pieces each) should be placed on the surface of the pillar facing the courtyard, the strips will subsequently be attached to these mortgages, we will come to this later. The optimal size of each mortgage is 60x60mm. The mortgage must be flush with the brick or protrude slightly; connection with the central pipe in the column is required. If the pillars are metal, then mortgages are not needed - the strips will be welded directly to them. An example of a well-prepared opening:

Scheme of concreting the foundation of sliding gates with electrical wiring: Clickable. More about the foundation -

After installing the pillars, we proceed to pouring the foundation. You need to dig a hole half the width of the opening. We start from the edge of the opening and move towards the rollback of the gate. The width of the pit is 400-500 mm, the depth is 1000-1500 mm, depending on the soil. For quicksand, swamps, and quicksand, we study construction documentation for foundations. The foundation should not sag, be subject to seasonal sinking or pushing, etc.
After our pit is ready, we make a “banquette”, see fig. higher. We take a channel 10-16 cm wide and also half the width of the opening, weld reinforcement with a diameter of 10-14 mm to the shelves and form an adequate spatial grid from the reinforcement. Next, we fix the bench in the hole, set the surface of the channel to the level of the “finished floor” (final asphalt or tiles), in addition, the surface of the channel must lie exactly at the horizontal level, this is important. We lay the channel close to the post. After this, we fill the pit with solution and wait a week or two.
As a result, after this we will get the following foundation:

The photo above shows the foundation for the sliding gates laid out in the “clean zero” of the yard, but the area will still be filled. Therefore, it is also important to determine the level of the finished floor of your site before pouring; you may have to install formwork. Now let’s move on to manufacturing the supporting frame of the sliding gate.
As a rule, profiled pipes 60x30 and 60x40 with a 2mm wall are used for the external frame, but 50x50, 60x60 are also possible. First, we fence our pipes - remove rust, degrease and prime. In Fig. these pipes are shown in green. We form an external frame from a 60*30 pipe, make sure that all the necessary angles are right, the canvas is in the same plane, and we do not make the common mistake when the frame, usually in the area of ​​the counterweight, lifts up a little along with the guide - everything should be smooth and neat. Welding seams must be continuous, without holes. To weld the gate frame, it is also convenient to use a specialized T-profile, this will significantly reduce the amount of welding work, since in itself it is already the desired combination of pipes 60x40 and 40x20.

Drawing diagram of a sliding gate device in the general case. External frame (green), internal sheathing (red), guide from the fittings kit (black).

The principle of forming a frame for sliding gates:

FREE DRAWINGS OF SLIDING GATES.

And this is a cross-sectional drawing of a sliding gate to help you understand the components of the gate height:

An example of a drawing of a gate frame for an opening of 4 meters and a height of 2 meters.

After this, you need to weld the internal frame (sheathing), which serves to ensure the rigidity of the structure, and also serves to fasten the lining - corrugated sheets, boards, polycarbonate, block house, etc.). The internal frame is made from a 20*20mm, 20*40mm pipe; it is easier to get into a 20*40 pipe with a rivet or a self-tapping screw. The internal frame is shown in Fig. above in red.
Distance “a” is equal to the width of the corrugated sheet used (often 1150mm); the joints of the sheets must pass along the vertical pipe of the sheathing. Distance "b" is equal to the distance remaining after sewing with solid sheets. The outermost sheet is usually always carefully cut to width using a grinder
It should look like this:

If the gate is sewn up on one side, then the inner sheathing can be moved to the edge of the outer frame towards the yard, this is true if the sheathing material is thick, for example corrugated sheeting with a “high wave”, sandwich panels, boards, etc. Welding work, as I already said, is carried out competently so that the pipes do not “lead”, we follow the principle of “chessboard order”. When the outer frame is ready and the sheathing is welded, we weld the guide from the fitting kit to the frame from below along the entire length. It is advisable to fix them with clamps. The guide rail must also be welded in a “checkerboard pattern”, otherwise the gate frame and guide may “lead” from welding and it will resemble a propeller. After this, we clean the weld seams, prime and paint the damaged areas. Sliding gate frame before covering with corrugated sheets:

When the paint is completely dry, we move on to sewing the fabric. We attach the lining material to the internal frame (sheathing) using rivets or self-tapping screws. Sliding gate frame after covering with corrugated sheet:

Please note that this section of the sliding gate counterweight is level and not “lifted up” and this is correct.

Let's consider some of the features of large openings, more than 5 meters. The figure below shows a drawing of a sliding gate for an opening 6 m wide and 2 m high. Please note the design of the counterweight part here is not triangular, but in the form of a rectangle with two diagonals. In addition, with a large opening length of more than 5.5 m, the counterweight should be made at 45-50% of the opening.

Well, the time has come to install the gate. The entire process of installing sliding gates with your own hands is perfectly illustrated in this video.

To begin with, we place the carriages on the foundation and spread them as far as possible within the limits of our counterweight (triangle). See fig.

but we mean that the end roller has a size of about 110 mm, so we place the carriage closest to the opening from the opening, taking into account this distance, and we place the carriage farthest from the opening so that it does not knock out the plug when closed. The wider between the carriages the better, but without fanaticism.

After that, we “roll” our sliding gate frame onto the carriages, set the sliding gates to the level and “grab” the heels of the carriages to the channel by welding, if everything is good, then we scald the heels, if we don’t like something, we set it up again, we achieve the desired result (the position of the gate in level, absence of distortions, etc.) and then scald. Then we weld the upper support rollers, install the end roller, and weld the upper and lower catchers. The rolling roller must roll onto the lower catcher and unload the gate in the closed position.
If your posts are made of metal pipes or channels, then the catchers and upper limiter can be welded directly to the post. If brick, concrete or stone pillars are used, they need to be attached to a profile pipe-plate (usually 60*30, which is attached to the pillar using mortgages, and in their absence, to dowels, anchors, fittings, etc.

Installation of the upper limiter (upper rollers)

:

If you have peaks or a semicircular arch of peaks on your gate, then a so-called portal is used - a U-shaped structure is welded near the pillar, allowing your peaks to pass through in height. The upper limiter is cut in two and welded to the portal so that the rollers “clasp” the gate on both sides. To do this, you need to provide a pipe (flat surface) along which the rollers of the upper limiter will roll. See pic:

Or using a remote pipe (60x40), if it is not possible to implement it as in the photo above, i.e. this way: More details.

Attaching catchers to the strip.

To mount the carriages, you can use a special accessory - adjustment platforms, with their help you can adjust the gate height and eliminate distortions, within some reasonable limits. And also to “get out of the situation” in case of any miscalculation. But if all the levels are set correctly and the foundation level is not “filled up,” then your gate will stand correctly and without any adjustments.

The supports are welded to the channel and the carriage is secured with nuts. Do-it-yourself sliding gates will cost you significantly less than ordering a turnkey gate from a company. To do this you will need We are always ready to provide you with a wide selection of components for sliding gates and affordable prices. This material will certainly help you make your own sliding gates easily, quickly and without unnecessary overpayments! Assemble the sliding gates yourself - save your money.

Still have questions? Call and our managers will be happy to advise you on all questions! Call or request a consultation.

When arranging a summer cottage or a country house, the question arises of how to make a gate with your own hands. Before starting the work process, you should decide on the type, materials and installation method. Taking into account all the nuances, you can make the gate yourself, without resorting to the help of professionals. Each type of gate is different from each other and has its own characteristics and quality characteristics. They are worth considering in more detail.

Swing type

In the photo of the gate you can see the easiest model to implement. The design of this plan is equipped with a gate. This is a fairly common option for a private home. Pillars are used as a basis; they are installed in width. The third post is necessary in order to establish the exact width of the gate.

Mounting occurs according to the following gate diagram:

First, the gate leaves and gates are installed on welded hinges that are located on the posts. This is an important stage, because depending on it in the future the direction of their discovery will be determined.

In general, sashes are frames made of metal. Other options are also possible, for example, a profile pipe, or a corner that is sheathed with a metal sheet, wood, or corrugated board.

There is a manufacturing option that involves using exclusively wood. In this case, it is worth securing the boards to a reinforced frame.

Heavy gate structures should not be used, as this places a significant load on the hinges and support posts. It is best to adhere to the weight of the sashes. A closing device is useful for the lock's hinge; you can use a powerful latch.

This type is really easy to install. The work can be done independently. It is worth considering the disadvantages in this case as well.

During installation, the support pillars may tilt, as well as the sashes may sag. This drawback is observed if the installation was initially broken. Reasons also include incorrect calculation of the weight of the sashes. It is important to deepen the foundation of the supports. Heavy material will make the situation worse. The weight of the loops must match the material.

The advantages of this choice are as follows:

• economical, fairly compact placement, there is no need to clear additional space for installation;
• easy installation work.

The working process

For a successful final result, you need instructions for installing the gate yourself. If the weight of the gate is normal, then the choice of metal poles made from pipes is considered optimal. Their diameter averages about 80-100 mm.

A profiled pipe with a similar diameter is also suitable. This type of support elements copes with the task perfectly.

The following installation methods can be distinguished:

• clogging;
• concreting.

If we are talking about the first method, then the depth to which the pillars are driven is 1.2-1.3 m. This type has its advantages. Among them, reliability and speed of work are of particular importance.

You should drill the hole you need. This should be a depth of half the future depth of the pillar.
Columns should be installed in the wells. You can hammer them in with a sledgehammer or impact head. When doing this, pay attention to the verticality of the stand.

The next step is to attach the posts to the fence posts. Then you need to weld the hinges. Designate a place for this in advance.

After this, you should hang the doors on the hinges. At the same time, the correct convergence of the elements to the central part is checked.
The second installation method is concreting.

This method increases rigidity as well as stability. This method will require the use of heavy and wide sashes.

Reinforcement is not carried out. You will need a reinforcing glass. The workflow steps for beautiful homemade gates look like this:

• drilling The diameter is about 200 – 250 mm, the depth is about 1.9 mm;
• prepare sand and crushed stone, they will be needed to fill the bottom of the hole. The components should be compacted carefully, each layer should be about 100 mm;
• the pillar is installed directly on a bed of sand and gravel;
• It’s worth pouring the solution around its area. Until it hardens, it is important to install the post vertically. Use supports as anchors.

You can use a reinforced structure for installation. In this case, installation work is carried out in the same way as without the use of reinforcement.

conclusions

After carefully studying the drawings, as well as step-by-step instructions, you can do all the work yourself. It is necessary to pay attention to the selection of necessary materials and get into the flow of work.

It is best to carry out work together with a person who has experience in this area. Then the quality and duration of work will pleasantly surprise you.

DIY gate photo

In this article we will try to tell you how to make swing gates with your own hands. You will understand that there is nothing complicated about this. When producing a sash, the most difficult thing is to weld the frame. If you do not know how to use welding, then hire a welder for a couple of hours.

How to make a gate with your own hands - choosing materials

Gates can be made of wood or metal. Please note that you are unlikely to be able to make decorative gates yourself with curved lines using forging; only a professional can do this. To make decorative gates you need equipment, a special room, expensive tools and, of course, experience. It is better to buy such gates ready-made.

It would be wiser for a home craftsman to make a regular gate with a metal frame covered with profiled sheets.

How to make a gate with your own hands - installation of supports

• If the yard is already fenced with a fence with support posts and a gate, then this greatly simplifies the matter. Secure the hinges by welding directly on them. If there are no supports, then you need to perform a number of simple steps.
• Treat the metal supports with primer and paint them.
• Depending on the width of the gate, you need to dig 2 holes 1.5 meters deep.
• Place a cushion of sand and gravel at the bottom of the pit.
• Insert the supports into the holes and secure them with reinforcement.

Align the supports plumb and fill with concrete.

Hinges can only be installed after the concrete has completely hardened.

How to make a gate with your own hands - gate frame

• To make the frame correctly, you need to prepare a drawing of the metal structure in advance and at this stage adhere to a certain sequence of actions.
• In accordance with the required dimensions indicated in the drawing, cut the metal pipe strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.
• The frame must be assembled on a flat horizontal surface and immediately secured by welding.
• Check the internal dimensions and compare the diagonals of the resulting frame.
• Make the necessary adjustments and weld the frame completely.
• In the sash where the gate is not provided, weld several corners from the inside for reinforcement.
• In the second leaf, assemble a special opening in which the gate door will be fixed.
• Once you have finished preparing the door opening, assemble the door. According to the prepared dimensions, assemble the frame of the gate in a strictly rectangular shape.
• The rigidity of the gate door should be at the same level as the ribs on the leaf.
• Weld 2 cross members to the frame.
• According to the drawing, weld the canopies and bolts in the required places.
• After welding, the elements are ground and primed.
• Paint the structure.

How to make a gate with your own hands - covering the frame with corrugated sheets

After the frame has dried, you can use corrugated sheeting to cover the frame. Place the profiled sheet on the frame and carefully attach it using rivets or self-tapping screws. The use of rivets allows you to achieve an attractive appearance.

Rivets and self-tapping screws must be secured in the recesses of the corrugated sheet. Consumption: for 1 square meter of corrugated sheeting you need to use at least 6 rivets or self-tapping screws. This quantity is due to the fact that in addition to the weight of the gate, they must withstand strong wind loads. After fixing the sheets of corrugated sheets, you can begin hanging the gate on the hinges.

How to make a gate with your own hands - installation nuances

Before installing swing gates, you need to make sure that the ground surface is even. Since most craftsmen make gates that can open in both directions, keep in mind that gates that open “pull” open more conveniently and last longer. Such gates are difficult to break open from the street side, since more force must be applied against the direction of opening than in the direction “along” the gate. This is important, because in critical situations every minute is valuable.

Making your own gates from corrugated sheets is a reliable and economical way to protect your property from prying eyes and uninvited guests. This entire system can be automated, which will improve the practicality and functionality of using the gate. Automated equipment is used for this.