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Do-it-yourself paving stones - this is not very difficult decision and you can implement it yourself. For arranging paths in a garden plot or near a house, they most often use paving slabs or paving stones.

The use of paving stones for landscaping is very popular, because. it does not retain moisture during rains, and also has a beautiful appearance.

What is needed to make paving stones?

As an arrangement of the territory, many people prefer paving stones, and not asphalt or solid concrete pavement, since puddles do not form on it. If it becomes necessary to carry out new communications or repair those that have already been laid, then the paving stones can be easily removed and then laid in place, which cannot be done with asphalt or solid concrete pavement. They will have to be torn off and a new coating laid, while the paving stones are used the same. If the asphalt, when strongly heated in the sun, emits harmful substances, then at the paving stones indicated deficiency no.

If you decide to make paving slabs on your own, then this is only half the battle, it still needs to be laid correctly, only in this case it will look attractive and have a long service life.

To create paving stones with your own hands, you will need:

• a separate room or at least a canopy;
• table or sheet of metal;
• rack;
• special forms;
• mortar, which consists of cement, sand, water; plasticizer, dye can be added;
• reinforcement to increase the strength of the tiles.

You can create molds for paving stones with your own hands, or you can purchase ready-made ones. In order to make a pattern and create a relief of the pavement surface, it is necessary to prepare a stamp first. For this, rigid wire is most often used, from which various figures are made. When, after pouring, the surface hardens a little, a prepared stamp is placed on each tile and a relief surface is obtained.

In order to get a stronger, more reliable paving stone, you can reinforce it or add screenings, a plasticizer, and to make it more beautiful, use a dye or fillers (pebbles, glass, pieces of tile).

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Features of the choice of form

Any home craftsman can make molds for paving stones with his own hands, but you can also buy them in the store. The variety of forms is very large, and you can choose exactly those that will satisfy all your requirements.

Forms are of the following types:

1. Rubber. They can be glossy or matte, ready to use. Such forms are designed for 500 cycles of work. You can do more, but the quality will already be worse.
2. Plastic. They are most often sold in stores, come in a variety of shapes, but are designed for only 250 cycles.
3. The polyurethane mold is used to create tiles with fine details and is designed for no more than 100 cycles.
4. The form itself can be made from boards, metal sheets, pieces of pipes, plastic containers and other materials. To create them, you need to show imagination and just bring it to life, you can even use milk bags or similar containers.

The main disadvantage of homemade forms is that they will have to be lubricated, otherwise it will be difficult to get the paving stones. For lubrication, you can use engine oil or its working off, drying oil.

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Mixing mortar and making paving stones

The basis for the manufacture of paving stones with their own hands is always cement and sand.

Molds for making paving stones can be purchased at the store or made by yourself.

To change the appearance of paving stones, you can use different sand or special dyes. Water is added until a creamy consistency of the solution is obtained. In order for the tile to be stronger and look like natural stone, screenings can be added to the solution. The use of plasticizers allows you to increase the strength of the product, its frost resistance and other indicators.

To make a mortar, take one part of cement and three parts of sand. If gravel is added, then it must be mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 1.

There are two ways to use dyes: they can be added directly to the mortar during its manufacture, or you can sprinkle it with dye while the tile dries and gently smooth it with a metal trowel.

The second method allows you to get a brighter and more saturated color, but you need to work with a trowel carefully so as not to damage the surface of the paving stones.

If white cement and sand are used, then the dye can be poured directly into the solution. The color will turn out to be less saturated and bright, in other cases you risk getting a dirty-colored tile.

After you prepare the solution, you can start pouring it into the prepared forms. First, half the mold is poured, after which a reinforcing layer is laid, it can be wire and pieces of reinforcement. Then the rest of the solution is poured and it is well rammed, then the surface is finally leveled.

If you decide to make a relief surface, then you can take the brand and press it into each tile to the required depth. As decoration, you can use pebbles, broken glass or pieces ceramic tiles, which are placed in a solution that has not yet dried in random order. In order to make a smooth shiny surface of the tile, before it has dried, it is ironed: the surface is sprinkled with dry cement and smoothed over it with a trowel.

• Homemade tiles from Kostya9
• Homemade vibrating table and homemade tiles from Commander

Homemade tiles from Kostya9

Kostya9 Member of FORUMHOUSE

To implement the idea, specialized network resources were studied on the topic of forms and the portal forum, on the topic of the process itself - the necessary equipment, raw material base, production technology. As it turned out, plastic and other forms are available, whatever you want, the main materials are left over from the construction site, and the existing units require a relatively simple, feasible refinement. Unforeseen complications arose only with the purchase of the five hundredth cement - due to the low demand from local merchants, it simply was not there, so I had to go to a neighboring town.

Manufacturing

To make the tile as strong as possible, a circular saw was remade under the vibrating table - the working surface was replaced by a heavy plate (with springs from nine racks), and a vibration motor under the plate. A typical concrete mixer for mortar preparation, ready-made polymer molds, with an imitation of the surface of sandstone, for drying - an old refrigerator, placed sideways.

The ratio of the proportions of concrete was also selected on the forum.

In addition to the existing screenings, washed river sand and purchased cement of the desired brand, a plasticizer was required for the tiles, the choice fell on SP-1. This is a universal additive that improves the characteristics of the mortar, its use increases the mechanical strength of concrete, reduces the number of pores on the surface, gives smoothness and increases the vibrating efficiency. Although it was dreaming of colored tiles, the cost of dye and white cement, in order to obtain a rich color, made it necessary to make do with a natural, gray tint.

The batch proportions are as follows:

• Screenings (crushed stone fraction 0-5) - 38 kg (three ten-liter buckets);
• Sand (river, washed) - 18 kg (one ten-liter bucket);
• Cement (M-500) - 17 kg (fourteen liter bucket);
• Plasticizer - 80 grams per batch (diluted with a liter of warm water);
• Water - 8.5 liters (if the weather is hot, another 0.7 liters).

Mixing technology:

• Screenings (all) are put into the concrete mixer first;
• Water pours in;
• Added plasticizer;
• The mixture is thoroughly mixed;
• Added cement;
• Thorough mixing again;
• Added sand;
• Last mixing (if necessary, water is added).

The consistency of the solution is quite thick, reminiscent of wet earth - this is a conscious choice, although many prefer to work with more fluid solutions.

Kostya9

Liquid concrete that liquid mud– no strength.

Forms previously lubricated with engine oil (in the corners, with a brush) are placed on a vibrating table. Filling with a solution should be uniform.

Processing time - from three to seven minutes. Vibration should not only compact the mixture, but also expel air bubbles from it. In the process of processing, the forms are interchanged and rotated around their axis - so that the impact is uniform. As it shrinks, the mortar is added until the mold is completely filled, you can slam it with your hand to ensure that there are no voids left. From the vibrating table, the forms are sent for more than a day (25-30 hours) to the dryer. On the advice of the participants in the branch, the old refrigerator, also known as a drying chamber, was turned from its side, onto its "back", which greatly simplified the process of laying and removing the product.

After this period, the finished tile easily comes out of the mold due to lubrication, and thanks to ongoing hydration processes that keep the raw material hot. If you overexpose the tile and it cools down, it will be more difficult to get it out of the plastic - you will have to pour boiling water over it so that the plastic expands. However, if you overdo it not for a couple of hours, but for a couple of days, and it has time to completely cool down, it will be difficult to take it out, even using boiling water.

Having stuffed his hand on a square tile, the craftsman moved on to figured tiles and decided to use chromium oxide as a dye.

The first test of adding the dye according to the norm, at the rate of 1% of the binder (170 grams per batch), practically did not give a result. It was not a color that appeared, but a light, almost imperceptible shade, so the dosage was doubled, which gave the desired green. Like a plasticizer, the dye was previously diluted in water.

Homemade tiles from Commander

Commander Member of FORUMHOUSE

He covered both the barn and the yard with tiles of his own manufacture, paths to the greenhouses too. Very good and profitable!

And in this case, a homemade vibrating table was used. Here's the "recipe" for anyone interested:

• Motor - from washing machine(on rubber shock absorbers);
• From her - a pulley for a belt drive from the engine to the eccentric;
• Eccentric - the former rotor of the electric motor: cut off by a grinder 1/3, a cage for bearings is machined, holders are welded, the whole structure is screwed to an iron sheet;
• On top of the sheet / table - wooden flooring 60x60 cm (for tiles 50x50 cm);
• High sides - so that you can make tiles 6 cm thick.

For household purposes - paths to the barn, in the garage, along the edges, the Commander makes large, square tiles measuring 50x50 cm, and for decorative paths resembling sidewalks - figured. The forms, as in the first version, are polymeric, soft - unlike hard plastic ones, they do not break for several years.

The composition of the solution and the proportions for batching:

• Gravel - a bucket;
• Cement - a bucket;
• Screening - 3 buckets;
• Plasticizer - 2/3 cup;
• Water.

Water is poured into a working mixer, a plasticizer is added, gravel is next, after gravel is wetted, cement is added. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, screenings are added. The commander does not add sand, as there is a large amount of dust in the screening, which replaces it and prevents the formation of voids. Forms before use are lubricated with palm oil, as they become dirty, they are easily washed with Karcher. But they become contaminated if the technology is violated and the tiles do not withstand the prescribed day, so it is better not to rush.

If the owners plan to equip paths on their suburban area or sites around a private city house, then you will inevitably have to make a decision about what material will do it better and more economically. Today, a fairly popular coating used everywhere has become paving slabs of various colors and configurations.

However, this material, as well as its transportation and unloading, is not cheap, especially during transportation, losses are possible, which means purchasing tiles with a margin, and this will also be extra spending. Therefore, many homeowners are thinking about how to make paving slabs at home and save a decent amount at the same time.

Benefits of making your own tiles

It is quite possible to make this material yourself. Of course, the lack of special equipment and accumulated experience will make this process quite lengthy, but it will save you from searching for a variant that is suitable in terms of pattern and color.

If a decision is made to engage in independent production of paving slabs, then you need to be prepared for a rather laborious work. However, the result obtained from it will exceed all expectations, when the paths or the playground near the house will have exactly the look that the owners intended when developing landscape design their possessions.

The advantage of home-made is the fact that you can independently create an exclusive version of the tile, which is not produced either on an industrial scale, or in general, or by anyone else.

In the process of developing your own version of a tile, there is always the opportunity to experiment with colors and even shapes, since molds for casting can also be made independently.

Forms for the manufacture of paving slabs

In the event that a tile of the desired configuration was not found in the store, or it was found, but it has a too high price, or its color does not quite suit the owners, then you can always find a way out of this situation by making matrices for its manufacture yourself. Such forms are usually prepared in the amount of several pieces, and already with their help they produce as many paving slabs as will be necessary for the improvement of paths and sites on the site.

paving slabs

For this, only a few copies of the finished tile of any color are purchased, according to which forms are made. In addition to tiles, a board with a beautiful textured pattern, or a stone that you like with its outlines, can be used as an initial sample.

Matrices can be single, that is, designed for one tile, or complex, in which several products are made at once. The second option is more difficult to make, but already during the production of tiles, the work will go much faster.

To make a form, you will need formwork material and, of course, a special composition for casting the matrix.

The formwork is made larger than the size of the original sample by 20 ÷ 30 mm in height and 12 ÷ 15 mm in width. At the same time, it should be taken into account that paving slabs must have a thickness of at least 35 ÷ 60 mm. A plywood box, a cardboard box, or any other material that can withstand the pouring of a plastic mold compound is suitable as a formwork. The matrices themselves are made from a two-component polyurethane-based compound, or from silicone sealant.

Polyurethane mold

In the assortment of hardware stores you can find several types of compound, specially designed for the manufacture of matrices for gypsum castings, artificial facade stone and paving slabs. One of the most popular of them can be called the domestic composition "Silagerm 5035", as it has excellent technical and physical characteristics. The molding composition is made on the basis of polyurethane and is produced in two hardness parameters - 30 and 40 units. according to the Shore table. Its main indicators are shown in the table

The manufacture of a matrix from a compound is carried out as follows:

• The sample for the manufacture of the matrix must be well washed and dried.
• Further, the original sample and the interior of the prepared formwork are covered with a solution consisting of white spirit and wax. This composition is applied in two layers. It can be replaced with a ready-made wax lubricant.
• Then a two-component mixture is prepared. To do this, a hardener is added to the paste in proportions of 2: 1, and the mass is mixed until smooth. It is very important to observe the proportions, since the correct hardening of the finished material will depend on them.

If a large amount of the mixture is being prepared, then the preparation process is carried out using a drill with a mixer nozzle, but a small volume can be mixed with a spatula. When kneading the mass, the drill turns on at low speed, otherwise the composition will turn out with a large number of air bubbles. If the unmixed components of the compound are not fully used, then the containers with them must be tightly closed with standard lids to prevent contact with air.

• The finished mixture is carefully poured into the formwork, in which the template is laid face up. The filling composition must cover the original sample completely and the thickness of its layer above its upper part must be at least 8÷10 mm.
• Upon completion of the pouring, the formwork should be moved back and forth a little, shaking slightly to rid the mixture of air bubbles. Then, with pouring, it should stand for 5 ÷ 7 minutes - during this time, air bubbles will rise to the surface, and they can be carefully removed with a spatula.
• After 24 hours, the mixture will harden and the mold can be removed from the formwork. However, it is allowed to use it for its intended purpose only after 72 hours, after the material acquires all the qualities declared by the manufacturer. After this time, the form will be able to withstand even the poured mass, heated to 80 ÷ 120 degrees.
• The mold from the compound will last for a long time if, before filling it with a solution for making tiles, it is treated with a special compound "Type 90".

This compound is sold in buckets weighing 1.5 and 7.5 kg.

paving slabs brick

Silicone matrix

The silicone compound can also be two-component, packed in buckets, and requires preparation according to the instructions (generally - similar to the process described above). But you can also use ordinary silicone, which is known to everyone as a sealant. You need to buy it as much as it takes to make the mold, since after opening the package it immediately begins to set. Therefore, the factory packaging of one-component silicone should be opened after the formwork and the original sample are greased and ready for pouring. As a lubricant, ordinary grease is most often used.

A sample of the future tile is laid with the front side up, also lubricated with grease and filled with silicone. The thickness above the top of the source should also be 8÷10 mm.

If a tile made of gypsum is used as a sample, then it must first be treated with several layers of drying oil or varnish.

To distribute silicone over the formwork, a spatula or brush is used, which are dipped in a soap solution prepared in advance.

A thick layer of silicone dries much longer than a compound - this period can be from two weeks to a month, and sometimes more. The duration of the period depends on the thickness and depth of the filled layer. Therefore, it is better to prepare the form for tiles in advance, for example, devoting winter time to this, so that the matrices are guaranteed to be ready for summer, since it is better to work with cement from which paving slabs will be made in the warm season, or at least at a positive temperature .

When the form is ready, it is removed from the formwork and washed well to remove grease. Next, you can start making tiles.

The main parameters of a standard one-component silicone sealant are shown in the table:

It should be noted that if the owners have no desire to engage in the manufacture of matrices on their own, then it can be purchased at a specialized store. However, in this case, the paths on the suburban area may not differ at all from the neighboring ones.

When choosing a ready-made matrix, you should not buy a plastic mold (without special need, as will be discussed below). It is better to give preference to polyurethane, silicone or rubber.

Making paving slabs at home

Not every home has special equipment with which you can quickly and efficiently do. Therefore, further we will consider methods that allow you to make it using improvised means. Of course, special molds are indispensable, and they can be made according to the instructions above or purchased at ready-made. Ideally, for high-quality and fast production, it would be good to have a vibrating table. However, as will be shown below, on a small scale it is quite possible to cast tiles without it.

Making square tiles using a plastic mold

Square tiles can be called traditional. It does not go out of fashion, as it gives the paths rigor and accuracy. It is especially important to use this version of the tile to decorate the path leading to the house from the entrance to the site.

Illustration
	In this case, a plastic mold with a size of 300 × 300 mm and a thickness of 30 mm is used to make tiles. The relief pattern of this version of the matrix is ​​​​called "California shagreen". Plastic molds are convenient in that they have sufficient rigidity and do not deform during the laying of the mortar, but it is more difficult to extract the finished product from them due to the same rigidity. In order for the form to last as long as possible, and it was easier to remove the finished tile from it, it is recommended to treat the matrix with grease before pouring the solution.
	To mix the mortar required for one such tile, you will need coarse sand - 3 kg.
	In addition to sand, you need to prepare cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, ordinary tap water 0.5 liters, red color powder 70 g, and plasticizer - 25 ml.
	To mix the solution, you will need to prepare a container - it can be a plastic or enameled bucket. It is not recommended to use a galvanized container, since the dye or plasticizer can cause oxidation, as a result of which the color chosen for the tile can change.
	Sand and cement are poured into the prepared container. In this case, the master chose such a mixing technology, but it will be easier to mix the mass if the dry mixture is prepared in advance - sand and cement are pre-mixed.
	So, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed using a drill with a mixer nozzle.
	The next step, in a separate container, water, dry dye and plasticizer are mixed until homogeneous.
	As a result of this mixing, a red liquid should be obtained.
	The finished solution is poured into a dry cement-sand mixture.
	All components are thoroughly mixed with a mixer - this process should be carried out for at least 3 ÷ 5 minutes.
	After kneading, a sufficiently thick viscous coarse-grained mass should be obtained. It will acquire the necessary density in the process of putting it into shape and tamping.
	Next, the resulting mixture is laid out in a greased form. First, half of the finished mixture is laid out in the matrix.
	The mass must be distributed with the greatest possible uniformity in shape, lifting it and shaking the matrix.
	Then the remaining mixture is laid out and first distributed with a spatula or trowel. When filling the matrix with a solution, it must be carefully compacted by pressing with a trowel. Pay special attention to the corners of the form - they must be well filled.
	Further, the matrix is ​​“shaken” for a long time - this process occurs until the mass is compacted to the maximum and forms a completely flat surface. When shaking, air bubbles will come out of the solution. It is advisable to carry out this work until the air stops coming out completely. When the tiles are produced in large quantities, a special vibrating table is used to compact the fills - it greatly facilitates the work. However, if molded products are made for only one track, then it will not be profitable to buy or make a vibrating table on your own. The form is left to harden for 24 hours. This indicator is valid for an air temperature of +20 degrees, and can change upwards in cooler weather - this will have to be determined experimentally.
	After the required period of time has elapsed, the matrix is ​​turned over, and the tile is carefully removed from it.
	If necessary, you can press a little on some areas of the bottom of the form, so that the product is easier to lag behind.
	The result is a neat, smooth tile, but it cannot be used immediately, as it must finally dry out and gain strength. To do this, the tiles are placed on edge and left for at least three days. And the final set of the necessary strength, with the possibility of applying the full load on the laid tiles, will end approximately two weeks after manufacture.

Production of original paving slabs "pine cut" in polyurethane form

The original design of the sites and paths is the laying of wooden round timber on them. However, wood absorbs moisture well, is subject to gradual decay and damage by various insects. Concrete tiles imitating a cut of wood will be an excellent substitute for natural material.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	This one is very original version paving slabs, having a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 40 mm, consists of two layers made from solutions of different colors. It is somewhat more difficult to make it than a single-color one, since the work will have to be carried out very carefully, making sure that the solutions do not mix with each other. This tile is called "pine cut" as it imitates the cut round timber of a tree trunk. The inner part has a beige color and the relief of annual rings, while the outer frame repeats the pattern of coarsened pine bark.
	For the manufacture of such products, a polyurethane flexible form is used, which can be made independently using the technology described in the article above. Since the polyurethane matrix does not have the proper rigidity, it must be installed on a perfectly flat surface. For a stand under it, a plywood sheet is usually used, which in the future will help to shake the solution after filling the form. Shaking a flexible matrix filled with a rather heavy solution will be extremely difficult.
	To get a core with "annual rings", for one such tile you will need white cement 100 ÷ 150 g, sand of medium fraction - 300 ÷ 350 g, yellow or beige color - 50 g, plasticizer 20 ÷ 25 ml. and 200÷250 ml. water.
	Water, color and plasticizer are combined in one container and mixed well.
	Next, the resulting solution is poured into a mixture of white cement and sand. All components are well mixed until homogeneous. If necessary, you can add a small amount of water.
	The result should be about 0.5 liters of the finished mixture.
	The mass is laid out in the middle of the form, previously smeared with wax grease. It may seem that it is too small, but this is a misleading impression, since when the mixture is distributed, it will fill all the space intended for it. The mass is distributed only along the inner part of the mold, which imitates the core of a round timber with annual rings. This layer should have a thickness equal to or slightly less than the height of the side that separates the middle part of the "round timber" from the improvised "bark".
	The solution should be thick enough. Therefore, it is first distributed with a spatula, gently pressing it to the bottom of the mold. It is impossible to dilute the mixture, since the mass that will be laid on top of it can mix with the more liquid bottom, and spoil the whole intended effect of the tile.
	Since there is little mixture in the matrix, the mold after the initial distribution is moved back and forth on the surface of the table and gently shaken.
	Further, the mass is again distributed with a spatula, and it is pressed tightly against the mold.
	After that, the matrix with the mixture is shaken again until the mass fills all the space allotted for it. The result should be an even, smooth pancake when viewed from above.
	The next step is to prepare a solution for pouring the framing of the core of the round timber with “bark”. For the mixture intended for the formation of this layer, and indeed the entire main part of the tile, it is necessary to prepare gray cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, water 0.5 l, plasticizer - 35 gr., brown color 60 ÷ 70 gr., sand coarse fraction 3.5÷4 kg.
	Sand and cement mix well with a mixer. Then, a solution is prepared separately from water, dye and plasticizer.
	Half of the solution is added to the mixture and mixed with the same mixer. During mixing, some or all of the remainder of the solution is added. The mass should be quite thick and crumbly.
	With the help of a trowel, the mixture is laid out in a matrix. First, the edges of the form are filled with it, which will imitate the bark of a tree.
	Then, the mixture is laid out on the entire plane of the container. When the entire composition is laid out, it forms a slide, which must be carefully distributed with a trowel. The form needs to be shaken a little. Since it is quite plastic, a sheet of plywood laid under it will come to the rescue, one of its edges is lifted and shaken, that is, they produce vibrating movements.
	Then, the mixture is again compacted with a trowel, continuing to distribute it.
	The mold filled with the mixture continues to be subjected to vibration until its surface of the solution becomes even and smooth. It should fill the entire relief pattern on the side walls of the matrix. The finished mixture is left in the mold for a day to harden.
	After 24 hours, the matrix is ​​gently inverted.
	Then, the mold is carefully removed from the tile. A polyurethane or silicone matrix has an advantage over a plastic one in that it is much easier to remove it from the finished product, and the risk of damaging it is not so high.
	The finished tile must finally dry and gain strength, this will take at least 2-3 days. When dried, the product will acquire a lighter shade, so if you want to get a rich color, you can add more color. However, it must be taken into account that too much dye makes the solution less durable.
	If it is decided to make a mold for such a tile on your own, then it is necessary to take as a basis natural round timber from any tree you like in terms of texture, with a well-defined structure of coarsened bark. Before pouring silicone or compound in the process of manufacturing the matrix, it is necessary to process the sample, deepening the textured pattern, otherwise the desired effect may not work. Pay attention to the groove between the bark and the wood itself - it also needs to be deepened - as a result, a small rim will appear on the matrix, which helps to carry out high-quality layer-by-layer filling. After laying the tiles, this thin gap will quickly fill with soil and become invisible. You can also carefully fill it yourself with a grout or ordinary cement composition.

Paving slabs made "in place" using a stencil

Another affordable way equip garden paths- this is pouring them with concrete mortar using a polypropylene stencil. With the help of this convenient device, it is quite possible to quickly ennoble not only narrow paths, but also entire areas.

This guide can help you figure out how to properly prepare a space for tracks, and how to use a stencil. In addition, attention will be drawn to how the concrete surface can be decorated.

paving slabs

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	For such work from the tools you will need to prepare: - building level; - large and small spatula; - Master OK; - bayonet and shovel; - pump-action sprayer; - container for mixing mortar or concrete mixer, - a wheelbarrow is desirable for delivering the mixture to the place of pouring. After familiarization with the work process is carried out, each master can add to the list with tools that are convenient for him, or remove unnecessary ones from the list presented.
	From the materials you need to prepare: - plastic mold for tiles; - cement M-500; - coarse sand; - dye, if you plan to make the tile multi-colored; - black polyethylene for flooring on the ground; - slag or crushed stone of fine fraction. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that from one bag of cement of 50 kg, 6 ÷ 7 slabs with a size of 600 × 600 mm and a thickness of 60 mm can be obtained. This list can be replenished with curbs, since the path will not last long on an unenclosed site - the edges will begin to collapse.
	A few words need to be said about the stencil itself. The design of the form is well thought out - its side walls are wider than the middle ones that separate the tiles. Thanks to this arrangement, after pouring concrete into it and gaining strength, not individual stones are formed, but a solid slab, divided by gaps in the upper part by only ⅔ of the total thickness. Besides? the form should have two technological holes in which handles are fixed, which will help to remove the stencil from the set concrete without any problems.
	In order for the path to serve for a long time and not overgrown with grass, it is necessary to prepare a place for pouring it. To do this, first of all, a fertile soil layer is removed from the marked area, approximately 100 ÷ 120 mm deep. Then, the soil is compacted, and it is advisable to lay a black plastic film on top of it, which will prevent the germinating grass from breaking through. Next, there is a layer of cement-gravel, cement-sand mixture, just sand or slag 50 mm thick. Some save on bedding and make it only 30 mm thick, but this will not be enough. If you do it honestly, then 50 mm is the optimal thickness. This layer is moistened and compacted again.
	If a narrow path is being laid, it is recommended to immediately install curbs. If it is planned to protect the path with curb stones, then they can be installed after the formation of the path.
	Next, a stencil is laid on the prepared place, treated from the inside with engine oil using a brush. In order to save the solution, as well as to increase the strength of the created slab and its peculiar reinforcement, crushed stone of a large fraction can be placed in the inner space of the mold.
	The next step is to mix the cement mortar. It can be made in a concrete mixer or in a container of suitable size. The concrete mixture should be prepared in this way: for 1 kg of cement and 3 kg of coarse sand, 35 gr. plasticizer and, if desired, dye is added.
	If 5 ÷ 6 forms are poured at once, then it is better, of course, to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is kneaded in the following proportions: for 50 kg of cement, 250 g must be prepared. plasticizer-accelerator, 9 buckets of fine gravel, 6 buckets of clean river sand. Water is added as much as necessary to achieve the desired consistency of the mixture. With such a volume of solution, a concrete mixer designed for 0.3 cubic meters can handle. m. In order to adjust the composition for a smaller concrete mixer, it is necessary to proportionally reduce the component composition. If colored tiles are made, then it is permissible to add color in the amount of 2 to 8% of the amount of cement, depending on how light or dark the paving is supposed to be.
	The prepared solution is filled in the laid form. It is very important that the mixture completely fills the entire space of the stencil. Particular attention must be paid to filling the corners.
	The solution is distributed with a trowel. Thanks to its pointed spatula, the mass will be easy to place in the corners under the stencil webs. It is better to put more mixtures than required than not to report, as the excess is easy to remove with a trowel.
	The solution is leveled on the upper jumpers of the stencil using a wide spatula. Excess mixture is removed with a trowel. It is recommended to level the surface of the future tile to perfect smoothness, as its wear resistance and durability will depend on this.
	After waiting 20 ÷ 30 minutes until the solution sets, the stencil is removed from the tile by grabbing the handles screwed into the technological holes. This must be done very carefully and strictly vertically, since the concrete has not yet completely hardened, and it is likely that one of the corners of the tile will be damaged during an awkward movement.
	The result should be such a concrete slab.
	The form removed from the previous plate is placed next to it, observing a gap of about 10 mm. Then, the stencil is checked with a building level for evenness, and, if necessary, sand bedding or a support of flat stone or ceramic tile is made in one or two corners.
	Further, the process is repeated, that is, crushed stone is placed in the form, then it is filled with a solution that is leveled, and so on, until the entire planned path (site) is closed.
	If the path is framed by curbs already installed along it, then after the coating is completely ready, the gaps between the plates and curbs are also filled with mortar. In addition, the gaps formed between the tiles can also be filled with concrete mortar, covered with sand or soil with special seeds. lawn grass, which rises only 30÷50 mm.
	The gaps between the plates can be left empty. However, it must be taken into account that over time they will become clogged with soil, which may contain weed seeds, and it can subsequently clog the entire path and even contribute to the destruction of the plates.
	If desired, in the process of manufacturing such a coating, it can be decorated with broken ceramic tiles. It is pressed into the solution that has just been poured into the stencil, and then the surface is again leveled with a spatula.
	If you want to add color to the garden plot, then the tile can be made multi-colored by filling the stencil cells with solutions in which different colors are added. This process will take more time and effort, but a site with such interesting paths will always cheer you up. Using several dyes, it is advisable to prepare two or three molds for pouring. So the work will be more efficient, since it is possible to fill areas in several stencils at once with a solution of the same color.

Starting work on arranging paths in this way, it is imperative to take an interest in the weather forecast for the coming days, otherwise all work may go down the drain if it suddenly rains heavily on the very first night after the formation of the paths.

The stencil will greatly facilitate the work on arranging the site. Although this form is quite expensive, but having only two or three such matrices, you can quickly lay paths and ennoble the sites of the entire territory without the involvement of third-party craftsmen.

Another important point. When purchasing a finished tile, you should remember that laying it correctly is not so easy. Therefore, if it is not possible to make paving on your own, you will have to invite specialists and pay them for the work an amount that will at least be equal to the cost of the tile itself.

The stencil will not allow you to make gross mistakes. Even without any experience in this area, any site owner will be able to independently make high-quality neat surfaces. Of course, if all technological recommendations are followed, increased accuracy will be manifested, and the novice master himself will mobilize all his abilities and skills.

Video: the work of the master - the manufacture of paving slabs for natural wood

Ideal for paving paths and playgrounds. Such a coating does not gas like asphalt, does not crack when the soil heaves and does not collect puddles on itself.

Another important advantage: it will significantly reduce the cost of construction work.

There are two ways to make paving slabs:

1. vibrocompression. It includes two stages: shaping the mixture in a vibropress under the influence of vibration and pressure and drying in a heat chamber under conditions of elevated temperature and humidity. Tiles made using this method are highly durable and suitable for use in places with a significant load;
2. vibrocasting. The compaction of the solution is carried out only due to vibration, for which the forms are set to. Drying - in natural conditions.

Equipment for vibrocompression is expensive and therefore this method is not suitable for a home workshop. The vibrating table can be made independently, so that adjustment in artisanal production conditions by vibration casting will not require serious costs.

Vibro-cast tiles are suitable for areas with light foot traffic. But for the device of the automobile platform, its strength is no longer enough.

Necessary tools and materials

For production you will need:

• concrete mixer. In extreme cases, you can replace it with a powerful drill with a mixer nozzle;
• vibrating table. How to make it yourself - is described below;
• . Sold in stores, but you can;
• building level: they control the horizontality of the vibrating table and racks for drying. When skewed, the tile will turn out uneven;
• shovel, trowel, bucket;
• brush.

Materials used:

1. cement. Sulfate-resistant (with a reduced content of 3-calcium aluminates) Portland cement grade not lower than M400 is used. Suitable PTSII / A-Sh-400. The preferred color is white: gray looks messy when stained. Production date is important: 3-month cement even with proper storage loses 20% strength, 6-month - 30%, annual - 40%;
2. filler: large - granite screenings, pebbles or slag 3 - 5 mm in size; fine - sifted clean river or quarry sand with fineness modulus. The purity of the sand is checked by trying to make a lump out of it: if it works, the material contains a lot of clay inclusions;
3. pure water. In terms of quality, in most cases, ordinary tap water is suitable;
4. plasticizer. Makes concrete durable, moisture and wear resistant. Good feedback Received "Superplasticizer S-3" from tile manufacturers. Also used are the compositions of the brands "Component", Master Silk, Plastimax F.

The function of reinforcement is performed by:

• crushed fiberglass;
• polypropylene fiber Micronix 12 mm;
• basalt fiber MicronixBazalt 12 mm.

To give the tiles the desired color, dyes are used:

• mineral: give a bright color, resistant to chemical attack and temperature extremes;
• organic: give soft, natural shades.

Paving slabs are painted in two ways:

1. surface. Dry dye is rubbed into the surface of still wet modules or painted with a solution using an airbrush. The method gives a bright color, but is labor intensive. In addition, as abrasion and chipping, the tile loses color;
2. volume. The dye is added to the solution during mixing, in the amount of 7% by weight of dry substances, which, due to the high cost, is associated with costs.

In order to save money, the modules are poured in two layers: first, a third or a half - with colored concrete, then the rest - colorless. The maximum admissible time interval between fillings of layers - 20 min.

The production cycle

The tile manufacturing process includes the following steps:

• preparation of the solution in strict accordance with the recipe;
• laying in forms with vibration compaction (performed on a vibrating table);
• hardening in forms for about 2 days;
• stripping (removal of castings from molds);
• holding until complete curing.

Preparation of molds for the production of vibrocast products

Forms are purchased in the store (the most durable) or made independently.

Homemade are of two types:

1. simple. Represent a 4-coal or 6-coal frame made of wooden bars or metal profiles. The form is left without a bottom - just install it on a rubber mat covered with plastic wrap;
2. curly.

Figured forms are made of plastic materials in the following way:

• check the horizontal level of the table for work;
• knock together formwork from wooden bars;
• a sample tile is laid in it: it is purchased or made of wood / gypsum;
• gypsum, molten plastic, polyurethane or silicone are poured into the formwork.

Plastic material will repeat the contours and relief of the sample tile.

The smallest details reproduce silicone and polyurethane. But on the other hand, plastic surpasses them in resource (more modules can be made from one form). Before pouring concrete, the form is lubricated from the inside to prevent the solution from sticking.

With an excess of fat in the lubricant, shells will appear in the tile, with a lack, the solution will stick to the mold. Therefore, it is important to use either special formulations (Emulsol, Lirossin), or prepare the lubricant yourself according to a proven recipe.

For example, for plastic mold the remedy is prepared as follows:

• 50 g of engine oil is poured into 1.5 liters of water;
• shake the mixture long and thoroughly until it becomes an emulsion.

Mixing concrete composition

The ingredients for the solution are taken in such quantities:

• cement: 21%;
• granite screening: 23%;
• sand: 56%;
• plasticizer: 0.5-0.7% by weight of dry matter (m.s.v.);
• dye: 2 to 7% w.m. (the more, the brighter and more durable the color will turn out);
• fiberglass: 0.05% w.m.s.;
• water: 5.5% w.m. or 70% of the volume of cement.

As you can see, the solution is prepared semi-dry: only 2 buckets of water are poured into 3 buckets of cement. This is a feature of vibrolaying: the solution in the form will even seem liquid.

Cooking process:

1. dissolve the plasticizer in hot water (70-80 0 C). Approximate ratio: 1 liter per 200 g of powder. It is important to stir thoroughly, because the plasticizer is fed little by little;
2. dye is dissolved in water with a temperature of 40-50 0 C. Approximate ratio: 3 liters per 800 g of powder. When calculating the required amount of water, one should take into account the liquid contained in the dye and plasticizer solutions;
3. lubricate the concrete mixer by twisting the liquid cement mortar in it for several minutes (then it is poured out).

After that, the components are loaded into a working concrete mixer in the following sequence:

• a fifth of water;
• cement and sand;
• coarse aggregate (when cement in water forms an emulsion or, in everyday language, milk);
• solutions of plasticizer and dye;
• the remaining water;
• fiberglass.

Do not overmix with stirring as the water evaporates. Mix for 1 to 3 minutes.

In a small concrete mixer (less than 0.5 m 3), the ingredients can be fed as follows:

• sand and half gravel: interfere with 30 - 40 seconds;
• cement: all together interfere for another 1 minute;
• the entire volume of water provided for by the recipe, including solutions of plasticizer and dye;

Then the remaining crushed stone and fiber are added, and the last mixing is performed for 1 minute.

Shaping, curing and stripping

Forms are filled with a solution and installed on a working vibrating table. Approximate time of vibrolaying - 5 min. The solution level drops due to compaction, so it has to be topped up.

When white foam appears, the vibrating table is turned off: this indicates the release of all air from the solution, further vibro-laying will lead to its delamination. Forms are installed on a rack and covered with polyethylene.

After a day or two, the castings are removed (formwork stripping): having laid a cover, they are knocked out of the mold with light blows of a rubber hammer. If they come out badly, molds for 5 minutes. immersed in water with a temperature of 60-70 0 C.

Forms before the next use are washed with saline (it is better to soak them in it for a while), prepared at the rate of 30 g of salt per 1 liter of water.

Making a vibrating table with your own hands

As a vibrating table, you can use a washing machine - an automatic machine turned on in the spin mode.

A simple version of the table for 1-2 forms is done like this:

• lay a car tire horizontally;
• top - steel sheet up to 10 mm thick;
• a jigsaw is screwed to the sheet.

A more complex version is made in the form of a table from a sheet of the same thickness and a rolled profile:

1. frame is cooked. The legs are strengthened with crossbars, bosses are welded on top. A shelf is mounted at the bottom of the frame;
2. springs are put on the bosses;
3. glasses are welded at the points of contact of the table top with spring supports. The finished structure is freely installed on elastic elements;
4. an engine with an eccentric is mounted on the lower shelf of the frame. A unit with a power of 500-900 W is suitable, for example, IV-98E or IV-99E.

You can use the motor from the washing machine. It is not designed for mass production, but when replacing bushings and standard bearings with reinforced type bearings, the resource will increase significantly.

What can ruin the finished product?

1. the rack for storing castings before stripping is set in a strictly horizontal position according to the level;
2. castings are protected from direct sunlight;
3. rapid evaporation of moisture is excluded: castings are covered with polyethylene, there are no drafts in the storage area. Water reacts with cement, therefore, with its lack, concrete loses its strength. In hot weather, castings are periodically sprayed with water.

Under these conditions and subject to the recipe, home-made tiles are not inferior in strength to factory ones.

Related videos

Step by step instructions on how to make paving slabs at home:

Having mastered the production of paving slabs at home, you can not only save money, but also earn money: among the residents of the district, there will certainly be those who want to purchase this popular building material.

The process, apparently, does not differ in complexity, therefore the basis of success is not so much skills and qualifications, but hard work and perseverance.

The only reason that makes you think about this method of paving from a negative point of view is the high cost of the material in retail chains. However, there is an option available to significantly reduce costs. Tiles can be made at home and then its cost will be significantly lower. Therefore, this article will address the question of how to make paving slabs at home.

factory technology

On an industrial scale, the production of vibrocast, vibropressed and clinker tiles for paving sidewalks is carried out. At the same time, depending on the manufacturing technology, the quality of products varies greatly.

The technology is quite simple to use. It is based on the fact that a cement-based mortar is poured into curly molds and compacted on a special surface by vibration.

vibropress.

Such products are distinguished by rich color shades and are sold at a low price. However, the strength and frost resistance of such paving slabs is an order of magnitude lower than that of other types.

vibropressed tiles made on special equipment that compacts the concrete mixture with high pressure. Such paving stones are stronger, but also more expensive due to the use of a press and increased power consumption.

The best tile is clinker. Clinker production of paving slabs occurs by firing specially prepared clay in a kiln at a very high temperature. The final product turns out to be very durable, frost-resistant and beautiful, while not yielding in terms of durability even to hard natural stone.

But the high energy consumption for the manufacture of paving slabs and the need to use expensive industrial equipment raises the cost of this material several times.

Equipment and inventory for work

In the conditions of homestead farming, special industrial equipment, of course, is absent, and therefore the technology for manufacturing paving slabs at home is based on the vibrational compaction of concrete. To complete the work, you will need the following equipment and inventory:

• small;
• wide capacity for acceptance of finished concrete;
• sieve for sifting sand;
• or other flat vibrating surface;
• molds for pouring concrete mix;
• rubber mallet;
• shovels, buckets, spatulas.

In addition, a strong stable rack is needed for drying tile blanks in molds.

Necessary materials

From building materials would need:

• cement brand PC500 or PC400;
• washed or river sand, preferably medium fraction;
• gravel fraction no more than 10 mm;
• natural or mineral pigment;
• mold lubricant.

In the event that the gravel is dirty or contains a lot of dust, then it must be washed, as impurities can adversely affect the quality of products and their color shade.

Work site organization

First of all, it is necessary to correctly install the concrete mixer, vibrating table and rack for placing forms with concrete. These are the largest objects and all actions will take place near them.

The concrete mixer, as the main equipment for the production of paving slabs, should stand in such a way that there is enough space for placing a sand pile and gravel near it.

You should also leave room for buckets of water or a watering hose. The best place for a vibrating table is in a straight line between the concrete mixer and the rack for storing molds with concrete.

The rack can stand indoors or outdoors, but in a place where it will be reliably protected from direct sunlight. Cement can be stored near the rack.

Forms for making

Manufacturers offer molds of various configurations and sizes, made from different materials. You can buy standard square or rectangular, multi-element or monoblock shapes. These can be cups for the manufacture of each product separately and for the simultaneous pouring of several plates.

If desired, molding equipment will be easy. In this case, you can get exclusive products that no one else has. For this use various materials— from wood and polystyrene to metal and plaster.

It is important to remember that tiles made by vibrocasting have a reduced strength and frost resistance. That's why an important factor when choosing forms, their depth determines the thickness of the future product.

In the case of home-made, its thickness must be at least 40 mm for footpaths and sidewalks and at least 60 mm for driveways or parking lots of a car. The movement of freight transport on such a tile is highly undesirable.

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Manufacturing instructions

The production of paving slabs by vibrocasting is carried out in several stages, which include:

1. preparation of concrete mix;
2. preparation of forms before laying concrete;
3. pouring concrete mixture into molds and vibrating table operation;
4. hardening period of concrete;
5. dismantling and storage of finished paving stones.

Each of the stages has its own technological features, some of which may have several versions.

concrete mix requirements

Certain requirements are imposed on materials for the manufacture of concrete. Sand must be sieved through a sieve to remove particles of clay, earth and other undesirable impurities that reduce the quality of concrete. The gravel must be clean. Otherwise, it must be rinsed with water. The use of PC300 cement is unacceptable even when it is added in an increased proportion.

In order to increase the strength of the tile, synthetic fibers (fiberglass) can be added to the concrete composition. Expensive industrial plasticizers can be replaced with liquid detergent. The applied pigment dyes must be resistant to ultraviolet radiation and are intended for outdoor use.

The ideal ratio of the components of the mixture for the manufacture of tiles according to the calculations of specialists is:

• cement PC500 - 21% or 30 kg;
• gravel or granite screenings - 23% or 32 kg;
• sifted sand - 56% or 75 kg;
• pigment dye - no more than 7% by weight of concrete or 700 g;
• industrial plasticizer C-3 - 0.7% by weight of the mixture or 50 g;
• water - 5.5% by weight of concrete or 8 liters;
• fiberglass up to 0.05% by weight of concrete or 60 g.

Since it is almost impossible to maintain such exact proportions at home, the solution is usually prepared based on the following calculation:

• 1 part PC500 cement, 1.5 parts gravel, 3 parts sand;
• 1 part PC400 cement, 1 part gravel, 2.5 parts sand.

As a plasticizer, liquid detergent is added at the rate of 1 glass per batch. Water is added gradually until the mixture becomes homogeneous, and the density will resemble thick sour cream.

If a dry pigment dye is used in the work, then it must first be dissolved in water, and then added to concrete in an amount of not more than 1.2 liters per batch.

Initially, dry components are poured into the mixing equipment for the production of paving stones, and after they have been mixed, water is gradually added. In this case, it is recommended that you first fill in half the required sand and gravel, and then pour out the cement, mix and add everything else. In this case, the cement will not stick to the walls of the mixer.

Mixing of concrete mixture with added water should not be less than 15 minutes. The finished mixture is poured into a trough or other similar container, and from there it is transported or loaded directly into the molds.

Placement of ready-mixed concrete in molds

The types of forms and their possible choice or DIY were discussed above. Therefore, the process of their filling and compaction on the vibrating table will be described directly here.

In order for the finished tiles to be removed more easily after the mold has hardened, it is necessary to carry out pre-treatment. To do this, they are lubricated from the inside with light machine or vegetable oil. In extreme cases, it is allowed to use a thick soapy solution.

If financial resources allow, then in stores you can purchase a special composition for lubrication. It will provide easier demolding, but will require additional costs.

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For quick filling of forms, it is recommended to install a low table near the vibrating table. It will be possible to put forms on it and fill it there. This will reduce the amount of grout spilled onto the working vibrating surface.

The filling process can be done in three ways:

1. Pre-painted throughout the volume, the concrete mixture is poured into molds in one go, the surface is leveled with a spatula and placed on a vibrating table.
2. Initially, a quarter of the volume is filled with a colored solution, and the rest of the volume is filled with ordinary gray concrete.
3. The colored layer occupies approximately 15-20% of the volume, and a reinforcing mesh or pieces of wire are placed between the colored and gray layers to increase the strength of the products and better connect the layers.

The first option will be technologically the simplest, but a concrete mixture with a large amount of dye may have reduced strength.

In the second case, clean concrete will act as a solid base, resulting in a stronger tile. In addition, the cost of purchasing the dye is reduced. However, it will be necessary to simultaneously prepare two different solutions - colored and gray, which complicates the production technology.

The third option allows you to get the strongest and most beautiful tile, but it is even more difficult to perform. Ultimately, the choice of technology in this case depends only on you.

Tile coloring methods

To obtain color shades on the surface of paving slabs, four different methods are used:

1. The tiles are made of colored concrete throughout;
2. Products are made two-layer, where upper layer tiles - from colored colored mortar, and the rest of the mass - from the usual gray concrete mixture;
3. Before concrete is poured into molds, their inner surface is coated with a water-based coloring agent;
4. Surface.

The most stable color in the manufacture of paving slabs can be obtained by using the first two methods, but they are quite costly from a financial point of view. The fourth option allows you to save money, but the paint from the surface will be easily erased, as a result of which it will have to be tinted periodically.

Placement of completed molds on a vibrating platform

After the required number of forms is filled, they are placed on the surface of the vibrating table. In this case, it is allowed to put the forms one on top of the other, but not more than in 2 rows.

Vibration processing of paving slabs allows you to displace all the air and compact the concrete mixture with high quality. If during the vibration process a strong subsidence of the solution occurs, then you need to add it to the bowls that are not completely filled and level the surface with a spatula.

The strength and frost resistance of products, and, hence, their durability, directly depend on the quality of compaction of the concrete mixture. Therefore, the vibration treatment process must continue required time. The exact duration depends on the oscillation frequency and engine power and is determined experimentally (on average it is 40-120 seconds).

The process of curing concrete

After processing on a vibrating table, the completed forms must be transferred to a storage rack. Shelves of the rack must withstand a large weight load, and the rack itself must also stand in the shade, excluding direct sunlight on the surface.

The process of initial setting of concrete during the manufacture of paving slabs takes 12-18 hours, but full hardening will end only after 72-96 hours, depending on temperature and humidity. Only after that you can proceed to the removal of products from the molds and their storage.

Forming and further storage of finished products

The process of removing finished products from the molds after the concrete has set is called demoulding. It must be done carefully, trying not to damage the plates and keep the possibility reuse forms.

If the inner surfaces of the molds were machined before pouring the concrete, then demoulding will not be so difficult, especially in the case of soft models.

If complications arise, treatment of the outer side of the molds with hot water can be recommended. Plastic or silicone materials will expand from hot water and free the tile. During demoulding, it is allowed to tap the molds and tiles with a rubber mallet.

The removed tiles are stored on pallets, observing the dressing between the individual products when laying. The height of the stack on the pallet should not exceed 1.2 meters. This condition allows you to protect the tiles of the lower rows from destruction due to the weight load.

Conclusion

As you can see, it is quite possible to make paving slabs with your own hands, since this technological process is not very complicated and does not require special knowledge from the performer.

True, for successful work, you need to have such equipment for the production of paving slabs as a concrete mixer and a vibrating table, but they can be bought, rented or made independently. The most important thing to get quality result— exact observance of technology and use of high-quality raw materials.

Independent production of paving slabs gives the developer the following advantages:

• financial costs for the improvement of a personal plot are reduced;
• it becomes possible to choose any shape and color of the material;
• you can prepare any amount of material for paving;
• independent quality control of the manufactured material.

By laying homemade vibrocast tiles, each owner can fully show their creative abilities and equip the site according to their taste and desire.