Onions are grown in at least four ways. By sowing onion sets, sowing nigella onion seeds, seedlings grown from nigella seeds and vegetatively from small-sized bulbs, the so-called pick onion.

Method of growing onions from onion sets. Historically, a method of growing onions has been developed - from sets. To obtain onions, onion sets with a diameter of 1...2 centimeters are selected; larger bulbs are used to obtain green onions; those less than 1 centimeter in size are used to obtain onions, subject to winter sowing. It should be taken into account that the larger the set, the faster it shoots. Sets with a diameter of less than 1 centimeter do not produce shoots.

Early turnip onions can be obtained by sowing a non-standard small set in the second half of September, but no later than October 10, so that the bulbs have time to take root before the onset of frost. Such onions overwinter well, do not bolt after wintering and produce very large bulbs by July 10...20, that is, a month earlier than a standard set planted in the spring.

A method of growing onions from nigella seeds. Many vegetable growers successfully grow onions from seeds. Seeds are sown as early as possible in the spring. To meet this condition, the soil for sowing onions has been prepared since the fall.

Onion seeds are also sown before winter. This makes it possible to obtain earlier products - two weeks earlier than with spring sowing. For winter crops, an area with a slight slope to the south or southwest with a flat, non-flooded surface and light, unclogged soils is allocated. On heavier soils that dry out later in the spring, winter sowing is even more effective, but only if they are mulched with peat or humus. Mulching the soil is also necessary on sandy loamy soils that dry out quickly.

Pre-winter sowing is best done on ridges in furrows. Seeds are sown after the first frost to a depth of 0.5 centimeters and sprinkled with peat or humus in a layer of 2...3 centimeters. Over the winter, the ridges, along with the surface layer of mulch, settle and by spring the seeds are at the optimal depth. Peat or humus contributes to faster warming of the soil and thereby accelerates the germination of swollen seeds. Mulching protects the soil from significant re-freezing.

Seedling method of growing onions. This method of growing onions is used quite rarely due to the additional labor required to grow seedlings. However, these labor costs are more than compensated by the high yield of large bulbs, which are used for canning and homemade preparations.

Vegetative propagation of onions. Northern local varieties of onions are mainly propagated vegetatively by small bulbs, during the development of which a nest of 8...20 bulbs varying in size is formed. In the northern regions, onions for propagation are usually grown on ridges or ridges, which are prepared in the fall. Four rows are usually placed on the ridge with a distance between them of about 25 centimeters. The distance between plants in a row depends on the degree of their branching and is 10...15 centimeters.

Usually planted in May. If, after the beginning of regrowth on compacted soil, the bulbs, rising on the roots, end up on the surface of the ridge, they are sprinkled with soil. Onions ripen in early August. After lodging of the leaves, the plants are removed from the soil, shaken off, dried well, the nests are divided into bulbs, finally dried indoors and stored. Vegetatively propagated onions give a high yield - 2...3 kilograms per square meter. Many varieties, having a relatively small bulb weighing 25...40 grams and a large number of rudiments, allow one to obtain high yields with a short growing season. If the productivity of a variety decreases, it is advisable to update the planting material by growing new ones from seeds.

Chives are grown to produce juicy, tender greens that are richer in vitamins and minerals than the common onion. Young chives are eaten, usually fresh, as a component of salads and okroshkas. Many gardeners grow some varieties of chives as a flower crop due to their bright purple inflorescences and the ability to form dense clearings (sods) that prevent the germination of weeds. These varieties of chives are called decorative. The most popular representatives are curb and Moscow.

How to plant onions - planting features

Decorative varieties of chives are popular in landscape design. Since they are unpretentious and frost-resistant, they are used in the design of alpine slides, rockeries, winter gardens, mixborders and other types of landscaping. Caring for decorative chives both in the open field and at home is simple and unpretentious. The flower beds decorated with chives look very unusual and impressive in the photo. It’s difficult to even determine what is more attractive about this plant – the tasty, healthy greens or the bright flowering turf that decorates garden plots.

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You've certainly seen the perfect lawn in a movie, on an alley, or perhaps on your neighbor's lawn. Those who have ever tried to grow a green area on their site will no doubt say that it is a huge amount of work. The lawn requires careful planting, care, fertilization, and watering. However, only inexperienced gardeners think this way; professionals have long known about the innovative product - liquid lawn AquaGrazz.

The first pruning of greenery is done before the chives begin to bloom, since the very first greenery is tender and juicy; subsequent pruning is done as needed, usually 3-4 times per season. Later chives are also eaten, but they are already denser and tougher, so they are heat-treated before use.

When to plant chives seeds?

Chives are planted in open ground with seeds or bulbs in early spring. Before planting, the bulbs are treated in a solution of potassium permanganate; the seeds do not require additional treatment. To plant seeds, you need to make small beds in the soil at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other, no more than 5 cm deep. The soil should be moistened, then the seeds should be sown and covered with soil, and then moistened again. Sown chives do not require special care, since they grow well, while preventing weeds from growing.

Onions in the garden - growing on the windowsill

Using the vegetative method, chives are planted twice - at the beginning of spring and at the end of summer. To do this, adult bushes are dug up, the roots are freed from the ground and treated in a solution of potassium permanganate, after which the roots are carefully divided and planted in prepared holes. With the vegetative method of growing chives, onions quickly take root in a new place and do not require additional care. After removing the rough leaves, it grows back, but not as easily and quickly as the onion.

Chives are sown in the spring, when the soil has already warmed up slightly (the second half of April). The seeds of chives, like all other onions, must be kept in water for about a day before planting, remembering to rinse them with fresh water every 5-6 hours. The chives seeds are deepened by 1-2 cm, the row spacing is at least 20 cm. After sowing, the soil is slightly compacted and mulched. On poor soils, a one-time fertilizing is carried out with complex fertilizer; further care consists of removing weeds and watering if necessary.

It should be noted that it is not recommended to cut chives in the first year of cultivation: the young plant, if it is not sufficiently rooted, may die. Cutting greens for food can be started in the second year of cultivation.

How to propagate chives?

Chives are easily propagated by dividing the bush; this method is often used in early autumn when planting plants in pots or boxes to obtain vitamin-rich greenery on the windowsill in winter. To do this, parts of the bushes are planted in prepared containers with moist soil, without deepening the chives beyond the initial level. The soil is compacted and watered generously.

The photo shows the flowering period of chives - growing on a windowsill

Growing chives at home is very popular among gardeners, since this type of onion does not require special care and is perfect for gardening on a windowsill. You can grow chives at home all year round: in the summer on the balcony, and in the winter on the windowsill. High yield of chives, allows for 1 sq. m to plant about 10 kg. Decorative varieties of chives look very beautiful in the photo and in the winter garden among other flowering plants.

A container for planting at home is filled with an earthen mixture. It is better to give preference to a shallow, flat container. You need to add drainage to the bottom of the container, then a layer of about 5 cm of universal soil mixture. You can grow chives at home using both seeds and bulbs. For planting using the bulbous method, it is necessary to select small, healthy bulbs. Professional gardeners recommend pre-freezing the bulb and placing it in a cool, dry place before planting.

When planting chives in the autumn-winter period, low feather growth may be observed. To stimulate abundant growth, the bulb must first be kept in warm water at a temperature of 40 degrees C, and the upper part must be trimmed or cut crosswise. Before planting, the bulbs, both at home and in the garden, must be treated in a warm solution of potassium permanganate to avoid the occurrence of various diseases and rotting of the root system.

How to plant chives in a container?

Before planting chives, the prepared soil in the container must first be moistened, then the bulbs must be spread in a bridge manner at a distance of 1 cm from each other. After this, the container with the planted chives must be removed to a dark, cool place for several days, so that the plant takes root in the new place and takes root. Then you can place the strengthened chives on a well-lit, warm windowsill.

The photo shows onion care

The optimal temperature for growing chives on a windowsill is 20-25 degrees C. At lower temperatures, the bulbs will go into a dormant state, and at higher temperatures, the feathers produced will have a yellowish color and a dry appearance. At home, chives should be watered as the soil dries with settled water at room temperature. Chives grown at home should be fed once with mineral fertilizer.

As a rule, after 2-4 cuttings it is necessary to change the planting material. In order for the chives to remain juicy and green, they must be trimmed at a level of 3-4 cm from the bulb, making room for new greenery. Caring for chives at home is simple; it is enough to provide the plant with regular watering and sufficient lighting.

When growing chives at home on the windowsill, all the beneficial properties are preserved, which allows you to have a storehouse of vitamins on hand all year round. From all of the above, we can conclude that chives can be grown both in garden beds and in containers; it can be grown using seeds or by dividing bushes. The most favorable period for planting this onion variety is spring, when seedlings or seeds grow quickly. At home, it requires minimal care, but weeds and other pests may appear in the beds, which must be constantly combated.

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Onions are one of the types of onions that are most common among gardeners. Plants of this species do not form underground bulbs; they are used as fresh herbs. The most popular are perennial onions, which can grow in one place for up to 10 years.

Planting onions

It is best to start preparing the soil in the fall. The soil needs to be dug up to a depth of about 20 cm and rotted manure or compost added. It is not recommended to apply fresh manure as it can cause disease because it may contain weed seeds that are not easy to remove. In case of high acidity of the soil, you need to add lime to get a good harvest. But it should be taken into account that it is impossible to apply both manure and lime at the same time, because the amount of nitrogen will decrease. You can replace lime with dolomite flour or wood ash.

With the arrival of spring, you need to fertilize the soil with minerals, but not immediately, but in several passes, because... high concentration of salts negatively affects the crop. Half of the mineral fertilizer should be applied when digging before planting, and the rest can be distributed over 2-3 feedings during the growing season.

Preparation of planting material

If the seedlings are purchased, they are dried before planting. To do this, you need to scatter it in a small layer in a warm room. If the seed is grown independently, it is heated to begin the growth process. It is recommended to warm it up in several stages: half a month at 20°C, and then about 10 hours at 30°C. Warming up the sets is carried out in order to activate growth and to prevent the onion from bolting in the future. It is important to ensure that the sets do not overheat, because... its germination will be significantly impaired.

If gradual warming up does not work, right before planting, the seedlings should be filled with hot water (45°C) for 15 minutes, then cooled with cold water. After heating, it is effective to treat with Zircon, Humisol or Rostom-1, which stimulate the growth of onions. The last thing to do before planting is to disinfect the seedlings with copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.

Landing

Weather conditions greatly influence planting time. If spring has come early, you need to plant the seedlings in third ten days of April, and in the case of a prolonged cold spring, wait until the soil warms up by 7-8 cm. If the soil temperature is below 12°C, you should not plant onions, because he will go into the arrow. But it is not advisable to be late with planting, especially in a dry and warm spring, because... The feather will begin to develop first, and the root will lag behind in development. As a result, the greens will not be able to germinate normally, and the bulbs that have already formed will remain small. You need to plant seedlings in the beds in rows, sorting them by size in advance. Small sets (up to 1 cm) are planted at a distance of 4-5 cm, sets with a diameter of up to 1.5 cm - at a distance of 6-8 cm; large sets (2 cm) - 8-10 cm.

It is recommended to make rows at a distance of 20 cm to make processing easier, as well as for good ventilation. Having placed the seedling in the ground, it needs to be pressed down with earth and covered with a layer of mulch of about 3 cm. After 6-7 days, most often the first shoots appear.

Onion care

Caring for onions includes loosening the soil, regular watering, weeding, fertilizing, treatment against diseases and insects, and timely harvesting.

Loosening

It is necessary to loosen the soil before germination, because During this period, a dense earth crust may form. It is recommended to loosen frequently, while simultaneously getting rid of weeds. Loosening is necessary to ensure that the roots of the plant constantly receive oxygen. It is especially important to carry out this procedure after moistening the soil. When the bulbs grow a little, you can rake the soil away from them so that they can grow larger and ripen faster.

Watering

Onions need to be watered regularly, especially in the first half of the growing season. During this time, watering should be done a couple of times a week. If the days are rainy, watering can be reduced. The main thing is that the soil is not dry. In July, when the bulbs begin to ripen, watering should be reduced and stopped altogether a couple of weeks before harvest. In the case of a hot and dry summer, onions need to be watered occasionally at this time so that the bulbs do not linger in growth and do not wither.

Weeding

The onions should not be overgrown with weeds, because... Because of this, the humidity will increase, which will provoke fungal diseases. Moreover, if onions grow in unweeded beds, a thick, juicy neck is formed, which complicates drying the onions in the future and storing them.

Fertilizer application

You need to feed the onions several times. The first is carried out half a month after planting with slurry or bird droppings. You also need to feed the plant after three weeks. If minerals are used as fertilizing, it is recommended to first add nitrogen, for example, ammonium nitrate. In this case, after three weeks you need to add nitrogen and potassium fertilizer.

Minerals are applied in dry form, sprinkling them on the beds before rain or artificial watering. Or dry minerals can be broken into water and watered with this solution.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Onions are a fungicidal plant, but despite this they also get sick and become food for insects, so it is imperative to carry out preventive treatment against fungal diseases and insects.

For processing, you can independently prepare a solution from copper sulfate (1 tsp), liquid soap (1 tbsp) and water (10 l). The onion should be sprayed with the prepared solution after its leaves grow 12-15 cm in length. Also, for preventive purposes, you can dust the onion and soil with wood ash or tobacco dust. After 20 days, the treatment is repeated.

Harvesting

In order for onions to be stored for a long time in the future, they must be collected in a timely manner. Winter onions are usually harvested in July, and spring onions - at the end of summer. When the feather no longer grows, and the old greenery has already dried out and lay down, the bulb is pulled out and inspected. If the husk is dry, bright and tightly covers the bulb, you can harvest. If you are late in harvesting the onions, they will continue to grow and produce greens. It can be eaten, but it is not suitable for storage.

Onion heads should be carefully dug up and, in dry weather, laid out in a row to dry. If the day is rainy, the bulbs are dried under cover. When they are completely dry, they must be carefully cleared of soil so as not to damage the husk. Afterwards, the harvest must be sorted, discarded, bruised, diseased and those without husks. The tails of the selected onions need to be cut to 6 cm. If the tail is not dry enough, the onions will not be stored for long. Then the onion needs to be transferred to a small box or box, and moved to a dry room, the temperature of which is from +5 to 20°C.

Onion propagation

Onions are propagated by seed. In August, arrows with “balls” containing seeds are formed on the plants. When the arrow dries and the seeds turn black, they must be carefully poured for further storage. The seeds are used to obtain a set, from which a full-fledged bulb is formed a year after planting.

If people had not once discovered this bitter vegetable, perhaps the whole history of mankind would have turned out differently.

The Egyptian slaves would not have built their pyramids - they would not have had the strength. Many conquering campaigns failed - warriors in foreign lands would have been mowed down not only by swords and arrows, but also by disease. Much later, great geographical discoveries would have been made, since travelers would not have achieved their goal, dying from scurvy and other diseases. And residents of northern latitudes would greet spring in a depressed state, suffering from vitamin deficiency and endless colds. Onions, which do not leave our table all year round, help, heal, feed, save from viruses and decorate life (with their decorative forms). And if grateful humanity erected monuments not only to animals, with the help of which scientific discoveries were made or nations were saved, but also to plants, the onion would certainly deserve a monument in its honor.

Onions are a valuable source of vitamins. It contains carotene, B, C, E, thiamine, biotin, riboflavin, nicotinic, folic and pantothenic acids. Onions are rich in sugars, mineral salts, and contain rare metals. The specific taste, smell and pungency are due to the presence of essential oils. We remember their presence when we start cutting onions.

Genus onion (Allium L.) is large enough. Today it includes 600 species of perennial herbaceous plants. There are about 10 species in culture. Interestingly, our most famous and most popular onion - onion (A. sulfur L.) was not found in the wild.

But there are many varieties of it in our country, which is not surprising: the best examples of folk selection have been selected for centuries. Entire regions still “live on onions”, feed themselves by growing their own local variety for sale, well adapted to growing conditions (“ Voronezhsky 86", "U Fima local", "Arzamas local"). The old Russian variety is still popular " Rostov onion". Cosmopolitan varieties (" Stuttgarter Riesen" And " Strigunovsky") are flexible, easily adapt to new conditions. It is worth taking a closer look at new breeding varieties (" Odintsovets", "Zolotnichok", "Chalcedony", "Ellan") and heterotic hybrids of foreign selection ( F1 Spirit, F1 Stardust, F1 Branko and etc.)

According to the ripening period, varieties are divided into early, middle and late. It is not difficult to find “your” onion both in taste (sharp, semi-sharp and sweet) and in color. This “grandfather” dresses not only in yellow-golden “fur coats,” but also in white and purple ones.

Traditionally, onions were cultivated as a biennial crop. In the first year, small onions (onion sets) were obtained from seeds (the so-called “nigella”). In the second year, a full-fledged turnip grew from the set. Now new varieties and hybrids have appeared that make it possible to produce turnip onions from seeds in central Russia in one season.

Long day culture; the area should be illuminated from sunrise to sunset.

It is demanding on soil fertility, prefers light and medium loams with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction.

Pests and diseases: downy mildew, neck rot, onion fly

Just a few years ago, even the most experienced gardeners looked at this plant with amazement. The multi-tiered bow does look a little strange. On its high arrow, several “floors” high, there are aerial “fruits”. Moreover, there is a pattern: the higher the tiers, the smaller they become. It is for this reason that this vegetable crop has earned its original name. However, it also has other names: “Egyptian”, “viviparous”, “horned”, etc. But many gardeners know it precisely as a multi-tiered onion. Planting and caring for it does not require special knowledge or skills, so it can become a decoration for any garden.

A little history

The first information about a form of onion similar in its morphological characteristics to this plant is in an ancient Chinese herbal book of the fourteenth century. It was called "lau-qi-tsun". The Chinese called it a grass that does not form seeds and grows in layers.

Biologists believe that multi-tiered onions, the cultivation of which began in East Asia, came to England in the nineteenth century. And it was from there that his victorious march through the countries of Europe began. True, then this plant was called tree or Egyptian onion. Due to the very strong aroma and pungent taste of its airy “bulbs”, it was already used then in the preparation of marinades of finely chopped vegetables as a seasoning. In Russia, this garden crop appeared much later - at the end of the last century.

Beneficial features

According to experts, the leaves of this onion have excellent phytoncidal properties and can be used as an anti-inflammatory agent. Its green part is very rich in nutrients. Compared to the onion variety, multi-tiered onions contain much more vitamin C and carotene.

Another valuable quality of this original plant is that it does not accumulate nitrates, and is significantly superior in nutritional value even to trumpet. In addition, this species enhances the secretory activity of the intestines and stomach better than others, and is characterized as a pronounced bactericidal and anthelmintic folk remedy.

Description

Belonging to the onion family, this garden plant has a very interesting appearance. Its leaves are wide, tubular, covered with a waxy coating, as a result of which they acquire a bluish tint. They grow up to forty centimeters in length. The tubular arrow ends in an inflorescence, on which aerial bulbs are then formed. The height of the first “link” of the arrow can reach up to a meter. From the first inflorescence a new one grows, which also ends in airy “fruits”.

Thus, on average up to four levels can form on one plant. Aerial bulbs, weighing about one and a half grams, hang in a bouquet on the inflorescences, forming from three to thirty such heads on each. The fruits are covered with a tough skin.

Multi-tiered onions, the varieties of which are few, have not yet received wide recognition in our country, although in their properties, if not superior, then not inferior to other varieties. Meanwhile, this plant is one of the best among those that produce greenery in early spring. It has a very elastic, crispy feather, whereas the batun, for example, is soft and not so juicy.

Bulbs

The multi-tiered variety differs from onion and other perennial varieties of its species in its exotic flower shoot. From two to five “floors” are formed on it, on each of which from three to eight elongated-rounded bulbs grow together in nests. They are dressed in purple, yellow or brown “shirts”.

The inner scales are whitish, with a faint greenish tint. The size of these amazing aerial bulbs gradually decreases from the first to the last tier. The largest of them are located below.

The arrows break under the weight of the harvest, so they need to be tied up. If this is not done, the peduncle may end up on the ground, and the bulbs will sprout in the soil where they fall. This is why a multi-tiered bow is sometimes called a “walking” bow.

Often, small white single flowers are formed on long stalks among the heads, but they are sterile.

This plant does not produce seeds; it reproduces only vegetatively or by dividing the bush. By July, its aerial bulbs sprout directly on the bush, since they do not have a dormant period. The underground ones ripen only by September.

Agricultural technology

Multi-tiered onions, planting and caring for which are carried out in almost the same way as, for example, the onion variety, under certain conditions can be grown in one place for up to five years. With proper agricultural practices, each such three-year-old plant can produce up to four kilograms of yield per square meter.

Many gardeners plant multi-layered onions on their greens in early spring. At the end of autumn, its above-ground part almost completely dies off, and in this form it goes to winter. The plant is very frost-resistant: according to experts involved in the breeding of vegetable crops, it is not afraid of even forty-degree cold weather - in the presence of little snow cover and when the soil is severely frozen. True, the plant must already have a fairly developed root system.

However, sudden changes in temperature can be dangerous for this onion, especially in March and April, when, after an early and prolonged thaw, severe frosts suddenly occur again. At the same time, even bulblets hidden under a layer of snow that have fallen from a bush retain their germination even on the very surface of the soil.

Landing

Experienced gardeners, who have already managed to harvest more than once, determine for themselves when to plant multi-tiered onions. When planted in summer, it has time to take root. Having sprouted and formed several leaves, the plant will go to winter and begin to grow back in early spring. If the heads are planted in the ground immediately after they ripen, then you need to take into account one feature of this crop: it will be possible to collect feathers only next year in mid-March. Otherwise, by harvesting the crop in the fall, you can destroy the onion, which in its fragile state will not be able to survive the winter.

Basal bulbs should be planted in a square nesting pattern with a distance of twenty centimeters between them. Multi-tiered onions can be planted more densely if the seedling is small. In this case, the depth of planting in the soil also changes: for large ones - about ten, for others - up to six centimeters.

In this case, each faction must be planted separately, since they differ not only in the type of sowing, but also in the timing of harvesting the feathers.

Some gardeners, already well familiar with the characteristics of this crop, use a more rational option. Having divided the bed into two parts, they plant the heads often on one, and less frequently on the other.

In early spring, from the first part, they harvest the greenery along with the bulbs, pulling out the plantings and thereby thinning out the area, and leave the second part until the summer, so that in June they will already have lush greenery, which will simply need to be cut off. The bulblets obtained from the tiers are immediately placed in the ground. Trimmed stumps will again produce a bountiful harvest, and the planted material will be able to take root and safely overwinter. Apparently, thanks to these features, many people prefer to have multi-tiered onions in their garden.

Growing

This plant is cultivated as both a perennial and an annual crop. It grows best on areas of southern or southwestern slopes that are early cleared of snow cover, on light fertile soils. In general, its cultivation differs little from the agricultural technology of batun, but it also has its own characteristics.

In non-chernozem zones, as a perennial crop, especially in northern and damp lands, the multi-tiered variety grows better on ridges, and as an annual planted in dry areas in the middle and southern regions - on a flat surface. At the same time, preparing the site with its planting scheme is no different from growing trumpet.

Peculiarities

In spring, multi-tiered onions are one of the first to germinate among perennials. Its leaves grow very quickly even with some shade in the area. Experienced gardeners say that growing this plant is not at all difficult. It will feel good on any soil and in any conditions.

Of course, on loose soil, free of weeds, with frequent watering and proper feeding, it will delight you with its harvest, but even in a forgotten far corner of the site it will bear fruit.

By the fifth or sixth year, many new root bulbs are formed, so the planting thickens. In turn, the underground part of the bulbs becomes noticeably smaller. Therefore, the plant is replanted or simply thinned out.

How multi-tiered onions propagate

As is known, this plant does not produce seeds. It reproduces by root or aerial bulbs. The latter take root much faster. It is better to take large material from the first two tiers for planting. In the first year, in the fall, they form two or three daughter bulbs.

The heads for sowing must be mature and have roots or root tubercles at the bottom.

Multi-tiered onions are best propagated using material collected from three- or four-year-old plants. Heads intended for forcing, as well as for winter or spring planting, must be dried and stored at a temperature of about zero degrees.

Care

After the snow melts from the onion bed, you need to remove all dead plant debris. After this, they begin feeding. Typically, by the third or fourth year after planting, beds of multi-tiered onions become too dense. Therefore, in the fall or early spring they are thinned out, leaving one, or maximum two, root heads in each nest. Some people use excess bulbs for food, but they are also excellent as planting material.

A two- or three-year-old bush has the highest yield. In prolonged cool and rainy weather, airy bulbs ripen worse. The leaves grow well and retain their green appearance right up to frost.

In dry, hot weather, aerial bulbs should be collected at the end of July, maximum at the beginning of August, since by this period the arrows, having turned yellow, begin to dry out.

In early spring, it is better to grow multi-tiered onions under film. In this case, greens can be obtained fifteen days earlier than in open ground. Moreover, as experienced gardeners say, it will have a lighter color and a less pungent taste.

Feeding

In early spring, mineral fertilizers must be added to the soil. Potassium chloride, ammonium nitrate and superphosphate are mixed at the rate of ten grams per square meter of area. A month later, fertilizing the bed with onions must be repeated again, not forgetting to loosen the row spacing.

In our country, unfortunately, only one variety of this amazing onion has been released so far: “Odessa Winter 12”.