Grapes are a favorite delicacy of many people. Some people try to grow the plant in their garden and it works out quite well, especially if the variety is selected in accordance with climatic conditions and is provided with proper care.
But it happens that the grape harvest can stun the owner in the literal sense of the word. By “peating” we mean the process of ripening very small fruits, i.e. the berries grow to the size of peas. What is the reason for this behavior of the grapevine and what to do to avoid such trouble?

Reasons for pea plants

When grapes pea, it is necessary to identify the reasons that influenced the process of fruit formation. Of course, professional winegrowers know why this happens, and many share their experience. Among the factors influencing the yield, the following should be highlighted:

• poor plant pollination;
• climatic conditions of the region;
• the formation of the grapevine was insufficient;
• deficiency of organic and mineral types of fertilizers;
• the gardener did not take into account the characteristics of the selected variety.

Let's look at each factor in more detail.

Pollination of grapes

During the flowering period of the grapevine, it is necessary to carefully examine the inflorescences and ovaries. If the pollination process is poor or insufficient, the flowers will begin to fall off; if everything is normal, then the inflorescences will have a large number of long stamens and pistils. When short vegetative reproductive organs are observed, the natural process of pollination will not be possible. Sometimes a gardener needs to carry out additional pollination himself, otherwise there is a risk of losing the harvest.

The grape inflorescence is divided into three types:

• feminine;
• masculine;
• bisexual.

To carry out the pollination procedure yourself, you need to cut a blooming flower from a plant of a bisexual variety. After this, it should be applied to the inflorescences that need pollination, according to the principle of powder puff. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the buds. The event is held in the morning from 7 to 9, after the dew has dried in dry weather. The first time pollination is carried out during the formation of the first inflorescences, the second and third times - during the period of mass flowering of the bush.
There is a second, less labor-intensive pollination option. To do this, take a small wooden spatula or stick and cover it with rabbit fur, which is first cut short. Then, with its help, part of the pollen is transferred from pollinating flowers to inflorescences that need additional pollination. If the procedure was successful, the stigmas in the flowers will acquire a brownish tint at the end of flowering. This method is widely used on grape plantations so that the grapes have a beautiful presentation.
In order for the bees to actively engage in the pollination procedure, you can place bait. It's very easy to prepare them. 300 g is diluted in a liter of water granulated sugar, a drop of honey and a handful of grape inflorescences. The composition is infused for 24 hours, after which it is poured into plates. Early in the morning, dishes with bait are placed near the bushes. To prevent bees from flying directly to the plates, they are first covered with a thin layer of moss.
Another way to protect the crop from poor pollination is to plant honey-bearing herbs around the vineyard, from which bees will carry pollen.

Weather

An important factor is the weather conditions of the region. Excellent conditions for high-quality and complete pollination are low humidity, dry weather and high air temperatures, which range from 15 to 30 degrees Celsius.
If, during flowering in June, the weather was cool, damp, and fogs appeared, then all the pollen will simply be washed away by the rains, which means that many small berries will form on the bush.
However, too hot and dry weather will bring a similar result. In this case, the pollen becomes too dry and is no longer able to stick to the stigma of the inflorescence. Therefore, if the weather fails, then you should take measures to independently pollinate the plant, which were prescribed above.

Leading the Vine

The newly planted grapevine begins to pea for the first time. Don't be upset about this. For a young seedling this is a common thing. Larger clusters form as the bush matures. If you regularly remove weakened branches when inspecting the vine, then everything nutrients will begin to move without loss to stronger parts of the bush. In this way, you can significantly speed up obtaining an excellent harvest.
Not only the branches, but also the fruit clusters are subject to careful inspection. If defective berries are found on it, the bunch should be removed immediately. Professional gardeners strongly recommend leaving only one full bunch on one vine. Compliance with this rule will allow you to get larger berries on the bush.
Stepchildren (side shoots) that appear during the growth of the shrub should be immediately removed so that the plant does not waste its energy and nutrients on them. This process significantly increases the green mass, allowing for greater photosynthesis. Thanks to this, the berries grow larger.
Another means of increasing yield is ringing of shoots. To refill old parts of the bush useful substances and carry out similar agrotechnical manipulation. In the zone where the ringing points are concentrated, in most cases clusters with large fruits are formed.

Deficiency of water, organic and mineral fertilizers

Among the reasons for grape fruits to pea is a lack of various types fertilizers, therefore, this cannot be allowed. This leads to negative consequences in the development of nurseries, especially in the cold season. Fertilizing plants is poorly received at low temperatures, and accordingly, the procedure for fertilizing inflorescences is not entirely of high quality. Hence the peas. Therefore, everything must be done in a timely manner.
The culture loves well-moistened soils and this should be taken into account when growing. To prevent the problem, you must:

• constantly check the soil to see if it needs watering;
• water the plants in a timely manner, preventing them from drying out;
• loosen the soil around the bush.

The drier the summer period, the more often the vineyards need watering. On average, irrigation is carried out at least 8 times during the summer.

Taking into account varietal characteristics

Before choosing a variety for breeding, you should study it thoroughly. If the description indicates a tendency to peas, then you should not expect abundant harvests with large fruits from it. Of course, increased care for it will make it possible to increase productivity, but only slightly. It will be a waste of time and effort. Therefore, it is better to opt for unpretentious hybrids, for example, Pleven (Augustin) and Arcadia, which begin to pea if they are not provided with at least minimal care.
It should be remembered that grapes prefer open, well-ventilated areas where sunlight constantly penetrates.
Peasing of grapes occurs in many gardeners. But it is necessary and possible to fight this problem, especially if you want to receive good harvests. To do this, it is enough to study the reasons that influence the appearance of small berries, and subsequently try to prevent their appearance.

Responsible winegrowers devote time to preventing diseases, caring for vegetation and soil, and ensuring the correct formation of bushes. And when faced with small underdeveloped berries during harvesting, counting on large ones filled with juice, they shrug their hands in bewilderment. But the reasons for grapes to pea are not so complicated; having become familiar with them, this problem can be avoided in the next fruitful season.

Peaing is the reduction of the volume of each individual berry, reducing the amount of the harvest as a whole. In this case, some of the fruits turn out to be unripe, not tasty and without seed material inside. For households and large vineyards, this threatens to reduce productivity and inventory levels.

Peasing of grapes is caused by a number of reasons:

• insufficient, poor-quality pollination of flowers as a result of negative weather conditions, incorrect location;
• lack of life-giving substances entering the filling bunches due to the bush being overloaded with shoots and fruits;
• choice for growing varietal varieties that are not characterized by large fruits;
• soil depletion due to lack of the required amount of moisture and microelements.

It is advisable to eliminate some negative factors (a pile of extra branches, soil conditions, planting location, characteristics of the variety) in advance, even before flowering begins. To ensure effective pollination, gardeners help the shrub.

Poor pollination

The first reason why grapes are small is poor pollination. On the site there are self-pollinating bisexual varieties (with long straight pistils and stamens), female varieties (with short, curved reproductive organs), requiring pollination from the outside. Shrubs are prone to peas for the following reasons:

• the predominance of female flowers in the area that do not self-pollinate;
• washing off pollen under the influence of water (rains and dampness in May-June reduce the quality of insemination);
• dry hot weather above 30 degrees dries out the pollen, which is not attached to the flowers and is blown away by the wind;
• unattractiveness of the vineyard to bees;
• the presence of bushes in places blocked by a fence, wall, or other plants prevents the wind from carrying pollen to the flowers.

Grapes that are not sufficiently pollinated drop many flowers and ovaries, which is accompanied by peas in almost 100% of cases.

Selecting varieties and planting sites that favor pollination is the task of winegrowers. They have the ability to independently attract bees in several ways. Negative weather conditions are an indicator that does not depend on the gardener’s abilities, but even with them it is possible to improve insemination.

Ways to increase pollination:

• ensuring air circulation in the area;
• purchasing varieties of different genders;
• planting honey plants on the territory;
• arrangement of baits for bees in plates covered with odor-permeable material (200 grams of sugar dissolved in water, honey and grape inflorescences are added);
• in dry early time plucking inflorescences from a bisexual plant, with the help of which the female stigmas of grapes are carefully pollinated;
• making a special panicle (rabbit hair is attached to a wooden holder), with which pollen is transferred to female flowers.

Pollination with inflorescences or with a hand pollen collector is carried out in the early morning (7-8 hours), when the dew has dried and there is no forecast of rain. The frequency of treatment is once every 2-3 days from the moment the first flowers appear and throughout the flowering stage. In hot weather, it is recommended to additionally spray the plant with water so that the pollen does not dry out and is fixed.

When the plant has sprouted many young shoots and foliage, branches are rarely pruned, an excessive number of ovaries have formed for the bush, and grape peas occur. What to do to avoid this trend? Correctly form the crown and fruit vines.

Young berry bushes are characterized by small fruits, as they gain fruiting strength with age. Overloaded with vegetation, adult members of the crop are faced with improper redistribution of water and nutrients within the branches. Flowering, ovaries, and developing clusters do not receive enough nutrition and produce a low set of fruit mass.

To avoid this phenomenon, the following procedures are carried out:

• periodic removal of branches that are weakened, damaged or increase the optimal crown density;
• pinching the tops of young shoots 3-4 days before flowering;
• on bushes that are sufficiently pollinated, plucking off excess clusters;
• ridding poorly pollinated plants of part of the underdeveloped bunches found at the stage of appearance of berries the size of peas.

If the weather is dry and the soil is depleted, the formation of vines is accompanied by fertilization and watering.

The bush, freed from excess vegetation, will not have anything to distribute between the clusters if there is a lack of water and microelements in the soil. It is important to normalize the supply of nutrition to the roots of the grapes during the formation of future fruits. For this purpose the following events are carried out:

• watering the soil when it dries out (more often in hot weather);
• loosening the top ball of soil for better penetration of moisture and fertilizers;
• root feeding with microelements, especially boron and zinc, which are responsible for the development of pollen.

The elements are interconnected; the penetration of some of them into the plant is impossible without others. The soil must be properly saturated with potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus, magnesium, boron, zinc, and safe preparations containing them are selected. Grapes indicate a lack of substances through peas, with the help of leaves and branches on which specific spots or other signs appear.

At the flowering stage, under bad weather conditions and low temperatures, it is justified to introduce into the soil or by foliar means special preparations that stimulate the growth and development of pollen (based on boron and zinc).

Varietal feature

Some representatives of grape crops are those that produce a small harvest due to their variety. Others are characterized by a predominance of the female type of flowering, which does not pollinate on its own.

Choosing varieties with peas inherent in nature is a personal decision of the gardener. In cases with female flowers, if it is not possible to plant the area with only bisexual plants, additional measures are introduced:

• mixed planting of both types of grapes next to each other;
• planting pollinators on the windy side so that they fall through the air onto female flowers.

The pollinating capabilities and characteristics of the varieties that are placed on the site are discussed with the seller before the moment of purchase. The climatic parameters of the area where the grapes are grown are also taken into account; some varietal varieties are not designed for low temperatures, and therefore are not able to bear large fruits. An additional safety measure is to study information regarding berry bush before going to the market.

Peaing of grapes is an unpleasant feature of the crop, reducing the yield and the degree of pleasure of winegrowers from their favorite activity. But it is possible to avoid the smallness of the berries if you provide for some nuances in advance. Even outwitting bad weather, which is an important reason for pea growing, will not be difficult if you help the plant to pollinate and fill the soil with useful substances.

Every novice gardener and experienced winegrower strives to grow a crop with large clusters and tasty fruits on their plot. However, instead of developed clusters, clusters of small berries appear. It is necessary to understand why this process occurs, what its causes are and, most importantly, how to deal with it.

Peaing in grapes is the appearance of small berries on a large bunch of grapes. The main reason for such underdeveloped berries is poor pollination of the plant in the spring.

The fact is that grape flowers come in three types: bisexual, female and male. Analyzing the structure of the bud, you can notice the different lengths of the pistil and stamens: if both organs are long, there will be no special problems with pollination. But if the stamens and pistil are short, then the vine will not be able to carry out the insemination procedure on its own.

In addition, another factor is climatic conditions. If the weather is favorable, hot, with low humidity, then pollination occurs naturally. As a rule, it lasts about two weeks. Otherwise, in cold, rainy weather (up to 15°C), the plant itself will not cope with the insemination procedure (the rain simply washes the pollen from the stigma). Too hot, dry weather is also undesirable - this also negatively affects the ovary of berries.

It is believed that the following conditions are most suitable for grape vines: air temperature from 15 to 30-34 o C, lack of precipitation, light wind.

Insect pollinators are another factor in low or high pollination rates in grapes. Bees “work” more often in calm and warm weather. To attract more bees, it is recommended to plant honey plants next to the grapes.

There is another factor why the berries on grape clusters become smaller: the uneven growth of the bush contributes to this. Overloaded or overgrown grapes, as a rule, will not bear fruit in the desired volume. In this case, the fruits do not have enough nutrients, since part of them is spent on the development and growth of greenery, stepsons and side shoots.

Additional common factors are lack of minerals(in the soil or lack of fertilizers), as well as insufficient watering.

Methods for eliminating grape peas

• Mechanical pollination. It is done manually using a special tool - a plywood spatula with any animal fur attached to it. Rabbit fur is considered the most acceptable. Before the procedure, the fur should be washed in warm soapy water and dried.

The procedure is carried out as follows: with a quick double clamp between two blades, pollen is transferred from one brush to another. Do not pull or squeeze the brushes, as this can damage the flowers and ovary.

Pollen is transferred from one brush to another, repeating every 3 days in the morning. It is recommended to take place at 9-10 am. It is better not to carry out the procedure in rainy and cold weather. After each use, the fur should be washed with warm water and soap and dried. And should be stored in plastic or paper bags.

• Chemical method. There are a number hormonal drugs, preventing the appearance of underdeveloped berries. The most suitable means for stimulating berry set are Gibberellin, Gibbersib, GibberROS, Ovary. When using them, care and precision in proportions and processing are required. Experienced gardeners Beginners are warned not to overdo it with chemicals; there may be a health risk.

The optimal fertilizers are nitrogen-containing preparations and fertilizers, which will improve the condition of the ovary and greenery of the grape bush. Or you can use chicken manure or wood ash. Treatment should be carried out before the flowering stage, then at the stage of fruit softening. Then you can use universal products.

Great importance is given to pinching and chasing grapes, which will also help correct the shape of the bush and remove excess shoots. This will have a beneficial effect on the ovary of large berries.

Advice!

To improve the insemination process, it is necessary to combine self-pollinating and non-self-pollinating bisexual varieties. This minimizes the chance of clusters of small berries appearing.

To reduce pea bunching, you need to carefully select the grape variety. It all depends on the characteristics of the variety, namely in what climatic conditions grows and bears fruit.

Winegrowers advise planting bushes in a sufficiently ventilated free space. A closed place, deprived of air and sufficient sunlight, will only worsen the problem and increase the number of bad, underdeveloped clusters with empty and small berries.

The role of pruning to improve berry quality

Trimming, complete or partial (stepping, chasing) allows you to increase vitality berries and inflorescences. The number of not only brushes, but also the ovary increases. Pinching is carried out several times a season, starting in June. They are not completely removed; usually a shoot with 5-6 leaves is cut off, leaving 2-3. Below the first clusters, the leaves are usually removed so that nutrients are not wasted on their growth.

Pinching off the top of the shoot (chasing) is carried out in July - August. It is noteworthy that this procedure improves the ripening of berries and their taste (in particular, sugar content). Timeliness is important: minting too early will begin to stimulate excessive growth of stepchildren, and if the procedure is not carried out, the wintering buds will begin to grow, bloom and, without ripening, may die in the autumn. winter period.

To summarize, it should be noted that the growth and development of grapes, ripening and accumulation useful properties berries depend on many factors. To learn how to get rid of the appearance of small berries, the so-called peas of grapes, it is necessary to observe not only the conditions for caring for the plant (watering, fertilizing, loosening the soil), but also keep in mind the weather conditions and the number of pollinating insects. If necessary, you need to take measures to attract bees, plant honey plants next to the grapes, monitor the growth of bush shoots, and regularly trim unnecessary branches. As a result of all these measures, you will receive a rich harvest of delicious, juicy fruits.

The reason for the appearance of fruitless shoots in grapes

The grape vines grow well, produce a lot of foliage, but do not produce bunches of flowers. Common situation? Find out why this happens.

Recently I heard from one winegrower that his Rizamat grape variety, which is already in its seventh year and which he grows in a greenhouse, is almost not bearing fruit. It produced only one harvest of several clusters. He does not cover it for the winter. Due to artificial heating of the greenhouse in winter, it maintains the temperature in it not lower than minus 14...16°C.

What is it that doesn’t produce a harvest when the shoots are growing? This means that the shoots of an adult bush grow sterile. I had to think about this phenomenon and try to understand what happened. After studying this phenomenon, it turned out that this phenomenon (maybe on a smaller scale) occurs quite often among winegrowers. We simply do not attach importance to this because we are not familiar with the reasons for this phenomenon. So, one of the signs of the appearance of barren shoots in grape bushes is the absence of inflorescences on young shoots. Then the question arises, why do some shoots have inflorescences, while others do not? As you know, inflorescences originate in the buds of grapes. This means that we only have to follow the embryonic development of the inflorescence from the moment it is laid in the wintering buds until the moment they bloom.

Overwintering eyes begin to appear in the axils of the lower leaves (at the base of the stepsons) during the flowering period of the grapes. For Rizamat, as more late variety, probably mid-June, and the flowering period lasts up to two weeks. It is at this time that inflorescences begin to form in the wintering buds and their formation occurs from June to September. In some varieties, the formation of inflorescences begins earlier, in others - later. At the nodes of the embryonic shoots, depending on the variety, age of the plant, location of the bud on the vine, but most importantly - on the availability of nutrients, from one to 3-4 inflorescences can form, and in some varieties more. in spring next year further development of shoots and inflorescences occurs on them.

This is what distinguishes a plant from humans and animals, that in humans and animals the generative organs, as they were laid down during fertilization, at the genetic level, will remain so until the birth of the child. No change in nutrition will affect the gender of the developing baby. And it’s a different matter with plants (grapes). Generative organs (inflorescences) may disappear due to insufficient nutrition. And right at the finish line.

Due to the lack of heat in the first half of the growing season, the end of active shoot growth and the beginning of berry ripening is often delayed until mid-September. In these cases, the influx of plastic substances to the eyes is insufficient, the initiation of inflorescences is greatly delayed, and their formation almost entirely occurs in the spring-summer period of the following year.

All your hopes for a normal harvest may not come true just at the end of the formation of inflorescences. Lack of normal nutrition in the spring of the second year due to cold, insufficiently warmed soil can transform your inflorescences into BERTLESS SHOOTS.

If there is insufficient supply of nutrients to the eyes in the spring, already formed inflorescences can transform into a tendril, and then a sterile shoot grows from the bud. In late-ripening varieties, in the fall the inflorescences are only slightly visible or completely absent. And since the inflorescences have not started or are slightly visible by the fall, their further formation is postponed until the spring of next year.

And to bring the matter to a formed inflorescence in the eye, we still need this season and the spring of next year. And when it is fully formed without a tendril, then we can talk about the upcoming harvest. But I was talking only about late-ripening varieties, and specifically about Rizamat. Earlier varieties manage to form inflorescences much earlier.

There are two critical periods for developing inflorescences. This is September - October, when the temperature does not allow the inflorescences or their primordia to be supplied with sufficient nutrients. Daylight hours are shortened, photosynthesis is reduced, the ground becomes colder, and the outflow of nutrients from the leaves and vines begins. And then there are unexpected early autumn frosts (if the vines are left without protection from them at this time), which can damage the wintering eyes. And the second critical period is the spring of next year, when the developing inflorescences have “grown” and require significantly more nutrition than in the previous season, when they were smaller. And the fact that the inflorescence was laid last year developed normally, but at the last stage this year in the spring it can transform into a tendril and a barren shoot, which is what I’m talking about.

The growth of the shoot and the development of buds on it occur under continuously changing conditions. The lower ocelli are formed in more early dates, during the period of increased growth of grape shoots; conditions for the establishment of inflorescences in the buds are usually unfavorable at this time, so the fruiting of shoots from the lower buds is usually weak. The eyes of the middle and upper parts of the shoot are formed at a later date; the conditions for the formation of inflorescences at this time are already favorable, therefore the eyes of the middle and upper parts of the shoot are characterized by higher fruitfulness. This point is especially important to consider when establishing the pruning length of different grape varieties.

At the same time, it is necessary to note the following: theoretically, each eye can develop into a fruit shoot. In other words, if a grape plant is provided with maximum optimal living conditions, every eye on the vine can produce a harvest. It has been established that under favorable conditions at the time of germination, barren buds in the eyes can develop into fruit shoots and, conversely, fruit buds with insufficient nutrition grow into barren shoots.

Insufficient heating of the soil in summer: while soil temperatures from +25° to +30°C are traditionally considered optimal for self-rooted grape crops, in vineyards in the risky farming zone in summer at a soil depth of 20 cm to 40 cm, temperatures rarely rise above +20°C. (Faddeenkov N.N.) But we must not forget about the slow warming of heavy and waterlogged soils in early spring due to deep freezing during light and harsh winters, which especially affects bushes with deep planting.

Also, soils located near unheated buildings, around metal supports buried in the soil, become very frozen and slowly warm up in the spring. The soil is slowly warmed up, covered with slag, sawdust, mulch on top, as well as in those places where there is too thick a layer of snow, which later melts and makes the soil waterlogged. And also in places where water drains from the roofs of buildings.

Artificial interruption of the growing season in the fall in the second half of September - early October with the first severe frost also reduces the amount of stored nutrients in grape bushes and slows down the formation of inflorescences in the buds of wintering buds.

These factors also contribute to the appearance of barren shoots. and the basis of all development processes in plants is nutrition, which enters the growing and developing organs. And the main reason for the appearance of barren shoots is insufficient supply of it to the developing inflorescences.

The reason for the appearance of fruitless shoots is also the formation of inflorescences in fattening shoots, which appear when the grape bush is underloaded due to an excess of nutrients supplied to these shoots. Underloading of bushes often occurs when growing vigorous varieties using small formations. In this case, the bioregulation of plant development is aimed at growth, and not at the formation of generative organs (inflorescences). Underloading results in multiple development of unfruitful shoots (shoots, tops, stepsons), thickening and poor lighting of the plant.

Another factor in the appearance of barren shoots may be deep freezing of heavy and wet soils in winter. With insufficient winter shelter and little snow and harsh winters, they freeze more slowly, but they also thaw slowly in the spring. And when planting grape bushes deeply, the soil at the depth of the root system warms up to temperatures favorable for root growth quite late. As a result, a time gap is created between the vegetation of the aerial part and the supply of nutrients from the root system and, as a result, the inflorescences in the eyes experience a nutritional deficiency, which is the reason for their transformation into an tendril.

Before a grape plant begins to bear fruit, all its shoots perform the functions vegetative organs. With the entry into fruiting, the function of growth and fruiting is combined in one shoot, which is characteristic biological feature grapes However, some of the shoots remain sterile, which depends on the genotype of the variety, internal and external conditions during the period of laying and formation of buds and inflorescence primordia in them. With abundant watering, excessive nitrogen fertilizer, shading and thickening of bushes, underloading of bushes, growth processes prevail over generative ones, and the plant begins to fatten. In this case, the formation of fruitful buds stops, and fruitless shoots develop from the buds. Sometimes fruitless shoots also develop from established fruitful buds. Fruitful buds are not formed even in the case of very weak shoot growth.

And another reason for the appearance of barren shoots may be too short trim fruit vines in grape varieties of Central Asian origin with late ripening and increased requirements for SAT (from 3000° to 4000°). Incorrect pruning of the bush, when the fruit shoots remain short. There is such a thing as a “fruitful eye”. A green young shoot with a bunch will begin to grow from it. In most varieties they are from the 4th to the 8th, counting from the base of the shoot. But there are varieties in which fruiting eyes begin only from the 8-10th or from the 12-14th (Talisman, Amber Muscat, Rizamat).

So it turns out that if the fruit shoot of such varieties is cut off by 8-10 eyes, then we cut off most of the harvest, leaving weak clusters. This is especially evident when the vines are poorly ripened. The vine ripens to a short length. And we usually cut off the entire unripe part of the vine in the fall. As a result, less than 5-6 buds remain on the vine, of which they are infertile. Sometimes winegrowers, without waiting for fruitful shoots (at least a few pieces) for several years and without receiving a harvest from these bushes, get rid of them, spending several years on their cultivation and formation.

Perhaps the bush simply freezes in winter (the buds are the first to suffer) or is subject to return spring frosts, and the fruit-bearing green shoots die. New ones grow, but their fruitfulness is very low.

There are cases of late onset of fruiting - sometimes 7 or even 8 years after planting. I have the following lazy varieties: Amethyst Novocherkassky, Arsenyevsky, Cherry. Elegant super early and Kishmish radiant. Perhaps the reason was the double transplantation of already mature bushes. The reason for the later entry into the fruiting season may also be the cultivation of grape seedlings from seeds (seedlings), or even on bushes grown from cuttings taken from non-fruitful shoots.

With a harmonious combination of growth and fruiting, the most favorable conditions for laying fruitful buds and developing fruitful shoots from them.

These are the main reasons for the appearance of barren shoots and, as a consequence, a decrease or almost complete absence of yield on fruit-bearing grape bushes. And this especially often happens with varieties of later ripening. Therefore, it is useful for winegrowers to know about the reasons for the appearance of fruitless shoots. There are many reasons, but at the root of it all lies malnutrition or its excess entering the developing inflorescences. In years with cool, cloudy and rainy summers, few fruitful shoots are also produced, because not enough nutrients are produced to set inflorescences. I hope that knowledge of these reasons will help you avoid losses and get an optimal grape harvest. Ultimately, we grow grapes to obtain a full harvest.

Addition:

This is what one winegrower writes, who visited Central Asia and talked with an old aksakal who grows grapes that bear fruit abundantly for many years. Therefore, he probably revealed many secrets to me. In general, what he conveyed to me, I experienced myself. Why do people say: “Babai gave an excellent cutting. He grew well. For three years I fed, watered, raised him, but he only tied 3-5 tassels and they were kind of stunted. So this vine will bear fruit until you uproot it. We have vine growers who cut cuttings from a bush that has not yet produced fruit. But that's not so bad. They cut a vine with a long internode, on which the bud sets an inflorescence very rarely. That’s why we see that Uncle Vanya’s bush is covered with fruits, but we can’t even try ours to the full.”

Vladimir Gornaulov , Mezhdurechensk

Hello. I planted several varieties of good grapes. But I don't know how to take care of him. The neighbors have brushes hanging, and there is almost no foliage on the vine (they specifically pick it off). Why do they do this?

Boris Chernyshev, Volgograd region, Volzhsky

Why are the vines bare?

Leaves on the vine are plucked for several reasons. Before flowering, remove a couple of leaves for better pollination. Grapes are wind pollinated, and dense foliage can make this process difficult. In principle, the operation is not mandatory. But it has been noticed that on poorly ventilated bushes thickened with shoots, the clusters are looser - there are fewer berries in them due to poor pollination.

In the future, a few more leaves are removed due to the desire to give the bunches a marketable appearance. Although the sun in extreme heat can burn the berry and cause burns on it, it also gives most varieties an unusually beautiful color. There is no shame in showing such grapes to your neighbors, and they are highly valued on the market.

Tearing off leaves also helps prevent diseases. The bunches are less damaged by oidium, gray mold and mildew. Until recently, this technique was the only one in the fight against gray rot. The better the ventilation, the faster the bunches dry out after dew and rain, the more difficult it is for fungal diseases to cling to the berries.

The reason for removing the lower leaves on the vine may also be the fact that some scientists consider the productive period of the leaf to be up to 60 days. Older ones consume nutrients, that is, they live at the expense of others.

Why are the brushes empty?

Clusters of torn leaves alone are not enough. They can be poorly pollinated due to unfavorable weather: rain, dust storms, extreme heat... Weather troubles are “corrected” by artificial pollination with down jackets, spraying with fruit formation stimulants (Gibberellin, Bud, Ovary and others).

Some varieties shed “extra” ovaries due to lack of nutrition. Therefore, in 7-14 days the bushes are fed and watered abundantly. And at the same time, they protect themselves by spraying the leaves with a solution of microelements, first of all - boric acid and magnesium.

Berries may also fall due to lack of water. Vineyards in industrial conditions are watered three to four times. True, their yields are significantly less than on amateur plots. In any case, if you water only three times, you need to wet the soil by one meter.

It is impossible to do this in one watering - the watering bowls are filled several times during the day. Or they break " water procedures"by 10 times.

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Over more than half a century of experience as a stove maker, I have had to make different versions of stove designs. In general, pr...

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