The technology for growing tomatoes in a greenhouse differs from cultivation in open ground. In particular, care in a greenhouse is more demanding regarding the watering regime, staking and pinching, as well as the prevention of tomato diseases.

Being a heat-loving crop, tomatoes are one of the most common “tenants” of greenhouses among gardeners in the northern regions. This method of cultivation allows you to protect the plant from the vagaries of a changeable spring, cultivate early varieties or obtain fresh fruits all year round.

One of the best options is a polycarbonate greenhouse, due to its durability, high light transmittance and low heat loss, which makes it possible to save on heating and lighting. The crop in such a shelter ripens earlier than in film analogues, while caring for tomatoes after planting in a polycarbonate greenhouse is not much more difficult than caring for a plantation on open ground. However, caring for tomatoes in a greenhouse has some nuances.

Watering

The first step is to water the seedlings planted in the greenhouse. Water should be given abundantly, moistening the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm. If tomato seedlings are planted immediately after planting, their rooting and development will occur slowly. After waiting until the top layer of soil becomes moist and not wet, you should loosen it. This procedure will ensure the saturation of the roots with oxygen; it must be performed after each watering.

There is no need to care for tomatoes in the first days after planting in the greenhouse. It is necessary to give plants time to adapt to new conditions. Only after a week the irrigation is repeated. The frequency of subsequent watering depends on the rate of drying of the top layer of soil. At an early stage of development, tomatoes need frequent watering because their root system is not developed enough to absorb moisture from the deeper layers of the soil. On average, you need to moisten the soil every 5 days, spending 4-5 liters of water per 1 m2 of planting.

Attention!

Tomatoes, especially young ones, should not be watered with cold water. Its temperature should be about 20-22°C.

Watering methods

Among the irrigation methods, the drip irrigation method is considered ideal for greenhouses. Sprinkling should not be used even if grown outdoors, since wetting the leaves of the plant can provoke the appearance of fungal diseases.

By the way, many summer residents are inclined towards the latter option, since with proper care the chance of getting a good harvest is slightly higher. Let's look at the features of growing tomatoes in the most modern version of a greenhouse - a polycarbonate structure and find out whether it is as profitable as it seems at first glance.

How to choose a variety

Of course, it is necessary to start planting any crop from the point of view of the taste characteristics of the fruit, but also based on the requirements of the plants in matters of cultivation.

So, not all varieties are suitable for growing in conditions of high humidity and temperature, so if you decide to grow tomatoes from polycarbonate, then it is better to give preference to hybrid varieties, as they are more resistant to and.

Modern experienced gardeners already know all these options from memory, but for beginners A list of varieties may be very useful:

• "Samara" - a variety intended for cultivation in closed ground and is distinguished by its juiciness and sweetness of fruits. 3.5-4.0 kg of fruits are usually harvested from one bush, although when planting no more than three bushes per 1 m², the yield increases to 11.5-13.0 kg per plant.
• “Miracle of the Earth” is one of the most popular varieties among summer residents, with deep pink fruits of medium ripening. One brush contains up to 15 tomatoes, weighing about 300 g each.
• - a pouring and very sweet variety that feels great in greenhouse conditions.
• “Moneymaker” is an early-ripening and very productive variety, with rounded red fruits collected in clusters of 7-12 pieces. From one plant you can harvest up to 9 kg of crop.
• "Long Keeper" - unripe fruits are pale milky in color, and when fully ripe they acquire a pink-pearl color. From 4 to 6 kg of fruits are collected from one bush.
• “Dina” is a fertile variety for growing in a greenhouse, which allows you to harvest up to 4.5 kg of crop from one bush.
• - a vigorous bush, reaching a height of 170 cm. If grown in closed soil, up to 12 kg of not only red, but also yellow or even blackish tomatoes can be harvested from one plant.
• "Marfa" - elastic, fleshy fruits, very pleasant to the taste. Up to 20 kg of crop is harvested from one square meter.
• "Typhoon" are round fruits that ripen on the 80-90th day after planting. From 1 m² you can collect up to 9 kg.

It is these varieties that are easiest to find in the greenhouses of modern summer residents, however, when planting seedlings in closed ground, you should definitely take into account the most suitable time for this procedure. Some varieties are especially sensitive to this nuance.

Did you know? The name of the fruits of the described plant comes from the Latin word "pomo d"oro", which translates as "golden". The second name came from the French "tomate", the French, in turn, slightly modified the name of the fruit used by the Aztecs ("tomatl").

Features of cultivation

If the substrate contains a large amount of peat, you can lighten the soil by adding 1 bucket of turf soil, small shavings and humus per 1 m².

Coarse sand (0.5 buckets per 1 m²) will also not be amiss. For active plant growth, it is useful to immediately add others, for example, (2 tablespoons) and (1 tablespoon), and then dig up the greenhouse area. Immediately before planting seedlings you will need carry out soil disinfection

, which is performed using a weak, barely pink solution of potassium permanganate. The preparation of such a disinfectant occurs by diluting 1 g of pharmaceutical substance in 10 liters of water (its temperature should be about +60 ºС).

Greenhouse beds for tomatoes are usually slightly higher than the main surface level (about 20-40 cm), since the soil raised above the ground warms up better, and in a shorter period of time. The height of the location depends on the possibility of filling the bed with a suitable soil mixture, as well as on the physical ability of the owner to constantly cultivate it in a bent position.

The greenhouse must be fully prepared for occupancy 5 days before planting. Taking this fact into account, it is necessary to choose methods of cleaning it and timing of its breakdown.

There are several simple rules for planting tomato seedlings in closed ground, but it is important not only to know how to properly plant and grow tomatoes in a greenhouse, but also when exactly to start planting them there. Let's talk about everything in order.

Deadlines

Tomato seedlings, which previously grew in pots, are planted in a greenhouse with the appearance of 3-4 leaves. Before performing this task, they must be prepared in advance for conditions of further growth, gradually lowering the temperature, and then completely placing them together with the boxes next to them. After standing there for several days, the seedlings will be completely ready for planting.

The life cycle of tomatoes varies between 110-130 days, which depends on the individual characteristics of a particular variety. So that the crop has time to go through all stages of its life path, it is planted in the greenhouse quite early.

If you live in the middle zone, then this period occurs at the beginning - mid-May so that by the twentieth of the month the seedlings have already managed to settle well in the new place. As for the northern regions, the planting dates will undoubtedly be delayed, which depends on specific climatic conditions.

Preparation of planting material

We have familiarized ourselves with the first stage of growing tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse; now we just need to figure out how to prepare planting material - seedlings. The easiest way is to buy already grown seedlings, which will save you time and effort, but you can never be completely sure that all the norms and requirements for growing such seedlings are met.

In addition, as we already know, not all varieties of tomatoes successfully take root in greenhouse conditions, and those that are ideal for these purposes are not always available for public sale. The only correct option in this case would be to grow seedlings yourself, especially since the technology of this process is no different from preparation.

Important! In addition to hybrids, determinate tomatoes can also be used for growing in a polycarbonate greenhouse, which reach 0.7-1.5 m in height and stop growing with a set of 6-8 ovaries.

Seeds of hybrid varieties do not require pre-soaking, germination or hardening, and their forcing is carried out as follows: we prepare plastic bags, small boxes or boxes with holes for water drainage (the height of the planting container should be about 7 cm) and, filling them with a nutrient substrate, place the seeds in it (you cannot sow different varieties of tomato in one container).

In modern stores, you can increasingly find tomato seeds that have already successfully undergone pre-sowing treatment, as evidenced by the brightly colored seeds colored by the manufacturer.

If there are no marks on the packaging of the selected variety indicating the type of preparation of the seeds, and they themselves are of a completely natural color, then all preparatory measures (calibration, dressing, processing, testing for germination and germination) will have to be carried out independently. In addition, many gardeners add several additional procedures to this list: bubbling.

Those seeds that successfully go through all these stages are planted in a box, where they will remain for the next 30 days, that is, until 2-3 leaves appear. During this time, they are watered three times (the seedlings should not be allowed to stretch too long): immediately after planting, when the seedlings hatch, and 1-2 weeks after that. The soil should be moist, but not waterlogged.

The optimal length of a seedling before planting is 25-30 cm, and your task is to timely force the plants to the time of their “relocation” to greenhouse conditions. In order to slightly restrain the growth of the stem until this moment, plants with leaves that have appeared are again planted in separate containers, since in a more spacious pot the root system of the plants can develop more actively.

Seedlings planted in separate pots should be watered every week, and by the time of the next watering the soil should be well dry.

12 days after transplantation, along with watering, small tomatoes should be added to 10 liters of water, 1 tablespoon and.

For each sprout there is half a glass of this nutritional composition. After 15 days, young plants can be fed with ready-made compounds (for example, “Fertility” or, and pale green seedlings with “Ideal”). By correctly performing all the above steps, you will receive excellent planting material that will take root in greenhouse conditions without any problems and will soon yield a good harvest.

Technology

Standard and determinate tomatoes with only 1 stem can be planted thicker (the distance between rows is 45-50 cm, between neighboring plants 35-40 cm).

Important! In any case, do not allow thickening, since growing strong and tall tomato seedlings, even in a polycarbonate greenhouse, will be quite problematic.

Tall tomatoes are also planted in a checkerboard pattern, maintaining a distance between rows of 75-80 cm, and between plants - 60-70 cm.

Young sprouts are planted only in heated soil with a temperature of +12…+15 °C. To achieve this result, the substrate is covered with black film in advance, although as an alternative, you can heat water and pour it into the holes just before planting.

When planting seedlings don't push them too deep into the ground, otherwise the stem, covered with soil, will sprout new roots, and the growth of the tomato will stop. You shouldn’t get carried away, since fresh ones placed in the holes in large quantities will either lead to forcing out the tops, instead of the plant putting all its energy into forming fruits.

Having prepared the beds, you can proceed to planting seedlings, the process of which takes place in the following sequence:

• we tear off 2-3 lower leaves of the seedlings;
• turn the container with the plant over and, lightly tapping, release the container from it;
• the root system of the seedling had to retain the shape of the pot, so we install it in the soil so that the cotyledon leaves are above the surface;
• We fill the free space in the hole with the soil that was dumped during their formation and, having compacted the soil a little with our hands, we leave the plants to take root.

10-15 days after planting the seedlings in the greenhouse, its first planting is carried out. To prepare a nutrient solution in 10 liters of water, you need to dilute 0.5 liters of 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska, calculating the amount of the finished solution so that each plant receives 1 liter of the mixture. The second feeding of tomatoes in the greenhouse is carried out after 10 days using 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. In one season you need to perform 3-4 such feedings.

Behind mature plants

When the plant grows a little and begins to prepare for active fruiting, the temperature in the greenhouse should be up to +25 °C, with nighttime drops to a maximum of +15...+16 °C. The ideal temperature conditions for fertilizing a tomato flower are +23...+32 °C, and if this value drops below +15 °C, then you will not see flowering.

Too high a temperature is also detrimental to the plant itself, since photosynthesis processes are inhibited and pollen grains do not germinate.

As with young seedlings, adult plants need regular watering and ventilation, which, by the way, is an excellent prevention of various diseases.

Since tomatoes are native to South America, growing them in cool climates without a greenhouse is quite problematic. Breeders are constantly working to develop varieties that are resistant to low temperatures. But the greenhouse still allows for an earlier and full-fledged harvest. In addition, tomatoes require care, and this should not be forgotten.

The timing of planting seedlings in a greenhouse directly depends on the technical characteristics of the structure and weather conditions. If the greenhouse is heated, tomatoes can be planted at the end of April. For a stationary polycarbonate greenhouse without heating, the deadline is shifted to the 1st ten days of May. The plants are transferred to the film greenhouse in the 2nd half of May.

On a note! The timing of planting tomato seedlings varies significantly depending on the region. You need to focus on warming the soil to 13-15 degrees Celsius and the air to 18-20 degrees. Night temperatures should not fall below 10 degrees.

If the seedlings are exposed to hypothermia or suffer frosts, their growth will stop. After experiencing stress, young plants will need a lot of time to recover - this will negatively affect the timing of fruiting.

By the time of transplantation, the seedlings should be sufficiently mature. Each bush requires 7-10 leaves. Plants should be approximately 50 days old. At this stage of development, tomatoes have strong immunity; they will easily take root in a new place and quickly grow.

Before planting in a greenhouse, seedlings must be hardened off to avoid a sudden change in conditions. At first, for this purpose, a window is opened in the room. After the temperature outside rises to 12 degrees, pots with plants can be placed on the balcony or terrace. The time the seedlings spend outdoors is gradually increased. It is advisable to start with half an hour, adding 10 minutes of being outside every day.

5-6 days before planting seedlings in a permanent place, the plants must be sprayed with a solution of boric acid (1 g per 1 liter of water) early in the morning or in cloudy weather. This will help preserve the buds on the 1st fruit cluster, which will increase the yield.

The beds are always formed along the greenhouse; their number will depend on the width of the structure. Each of them should be 60-90 cm wide and 40 cm high. A passage of 50-60 cm is left between the ridges. The land is prepared a week before planting.

If the base of the soil is peat, add coarse sand (half a bucket) and one bucket each of turf soil and humus. Additionally, 2 tbsp are added to the bed. spoons of superphosphate and 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate. All components are dug up for their uniform distribution.

Just before planting, water the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. You can pour the drug solution directly into each well. 3 days before the seedlings are planted in the greenhouse, the 3 lowest leaves of the seedlings must be cut off.

This procedure will help to better ventilate the bushes, and therefore reduce the risk of diseases. In addition, in this case the plants will have more strength to form the first flower cluster.

Hybrids and tall varieties are planted in beds in one row with an interval of 60 cm, or in a checkerboard pattern. As the experience of summer residents shows, increasing the distance between plants will reduce the yield by half. The bushes will begin to branch heavily and become overly tall.

Advice! Squat seedlings are planted vertically at the same depth as they were in the pot. Overgrown plants are placed in the hole at an angle, while deepening the stem by 1/2 of its length.

Planting tomato seedlings in a greenhouse: video

How to properly care for tomatoes in a greenhouse

After planting in the greenhouse, the seedlings are not watered for 10-12 days so that they do not elongate. After this period, the bushes are tied to a trellis and provided with further care for normal growth.

Each crop has its own irrigation technology. It is necessary to take into account that both poor and excessive watering is harmful for them.

If you water them excessively, evaporation will increase air humidity, which will promote the appearance of fungal diseases. An excess of water in the ground can also damage the roots - they will begin to rot. Lack of moisture will cause dehydration, which will lead to wilting of foliage and possible death of plants.

On a note! You can determine the lack of moisture in tomatoes by curling the leaves along the central vein.

• It is necessary to water the bushes 1-2 times a week, focusing on the air humidity and temperature inside the structure.
• It is recommended to moisten the soil in the morning so that the water does not evaporate too quickly under the influence of sunlight. On hot days, tomatoes are watered twice a day, with additional watering in the evenings 3-4 hours before sunset.
• The water temperature should be equal to the air temperature. Water the plant strictly at the root, trying to prevent moisture from getting on the stem and leaves.
• Each bush should receive 4-5 liters of water during watering.

In small greenhouses, manual watering with settled water using a watering can is most often used. Water is poured into large barrels in advance so that it heats up and settles. If a container of water is placed inside a greenhouse, it must be covered with a lid so as not to increase air humidity in the building. Some people use a hose for watering. The disadvantage of this method is the lack of control over the amount of water poured onto the bed.

Drip irrigation is considered convenient and less costly in terms of effort. To organize it in the greenhouse you will need to install a special system. Tubes for drip irrigation are dug in at a shallow depth, and the water goes directly to the roots of the plants. This method prevents the evaporation of moisture from the surface of the earth, prevents water from entering the stems and leaves, and makes it possible to moisturize at any time. With this type of irrigation, the soil is not washed away and does not become salty.

Each stage of tomato growth requires its own watering schedule. When planting, water is poured into the hole, then the soil is not moistened for 10-12 days. After this interval, the tomatoes are watered twice a week, spending 2-3 liters of water on each bush until flowering begins. This frequency of watering with a small volume is due to the fact that the roots of the plants are still weak and cannot absorb large amounts of moisture.

With the beginning of flowering, the volume of water per plant is increased to 5 liters, reducing the frequency of watering to once a week. When the fruits appear, the tomatoes begin to be watered again 2 times a week; the amount of moisture added should be moderate. As soon as the tomatoes begin to turn red, the plants again begin to “water” once a week with a small amount of water. If you neglect this rule, the fruits may crack.

Gartering involves attaching tomato stems to a support using strips of fabric, ropes, special plastic fasteners, and the like. They begin this procedure immediately after removing the stepsons, and later they additionally tie up the formed fruit clusters and new growth of the stem. Only compact, low-growing varieties of tomatoes do not need this technique.

It is advisable to fasten clusters with heavy fruits in 2-3 places at once. The knot cannot be tightened tightly; there must be a gap between the stem and the support. When gartered, the bushes grow vertically, which allows them to receive more air and light, and makes it easier for the gardener to care for the plants.

On a note! Using this technique prevents branches from breaking off due to the weight of the fruit. Hanging tomatoes are easier to pick, are inaccessible to slugs and are not affected by late blight.

It is best to plant indeterminate varieties and hybrids in the greenhouse, which bear fruit until frost. The peculiarity of these tomatoes is that if the bush is not formed, then by mid-summer it will be impossible to enter the greenhouse due to dense thickets.

The plants will devote all their energy to the growth of the vegetative mass, and there will be no resources left for the formation and ripening of fruits. Overgrown bushes will be poorly ventilated, and disease outbreaks will begin. That is why it is necessary to form tomatoes in a greenhouse. The general principle is to leave no more than 3 trunks and no more than 8 brushes on the bush.

At the same time, the formation methods themselves may be different:

• The first time the stepsons are removed 2 weeks after planting the tomatoes in the greenhouse.
• Subsequently, the procedure is repeated every 10-15 days.
• The shoot on which the first brush was formed is considered the main one. All other branches coming from the leaf axils must be removed, not allowing them to grow more than 5 cm in length.
• You need to break off the stepson by tilting it to the side.
• If the bush is formed into one stem, absolutely all the stepsons are removed.
• When forming a bush with 3 trunks, leave two strong shoots located below the first fruit cluster.
• When forming a plant into 2 trunks, one lower shoot is preserved, extending from the main stem.
• Subsequently, all the stepsons are also removed from the additional stems, just like from the main one.

If you are not sure that you can carefully stitch by hand, use sharp scissors. The instrument must be disinfected. It is recommended to leave a stump 1.5 cm long in place of the stepson - this will prevent the re-emergence of shoots in this place.

For full ripening, no more than 4 clusters are left on each stem. If you want to get an early harvest, the plant is formed into 3 trunks, pinching the top of each of them. Then all the efforts of the tomato will be directed not to the growth of the bush, but to fruiting.

Important! After the maximum number of fruit clusters is formed on each bush, the tops of the shoots are cut off, since the new ovaries still will not have time to fully ripen. There is no point in the plant wasting its energy on them.

The first feeding is carried out a few days after planting. Due to high humidity in greenhouse conditions, nutrient absorption processes occur faster, so the concentration of fertilizers must be slightly reduced. You can prepare a mixture of 1 tbsp. spoons of nitrophoska and 0.5 liters of mullein per 10 liters of water. Use 1 liter of fertilizer solution for each bush.

The next feeding is carried out during the period of mass flowering. Any complex mineral fertilizer for vegetables or special fertilizer for tomatoes is suitable for this. 1 teaspoon of the drug per bucket of water is enough. One plant should receive 0.5 liters of fertilizer.

After the ovaries begin to form, the tomatoes are fertilized leaf by leaf. To do this, in the evening, spray the leaves with an infusion of wood ash, a solution of magnesium sulfate or superphosphate. These drugs promote active fruit set. The last feeding is carried out during the period of mass fruiting. Dissolve 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of superphosphate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium humate. Fertilizer is applied 1 liter at the root of each bush.

Attention! After fruits appear on the plants, foliar feeding is eliminated.

How to feed tomatoes in a greenhouse for better fruit set: video

It is impossible to give specific dates for the ripening of tomatoes in a greenhouse. They depend on the specific variety and method of cultivation. In the middle zone and in the northern regions, early-ripening tomatoes are usually planted, which ripen quite early. Thanks to the correct temperature conditions in the greenhouse, it is easy to obtain ripe red fruits. Of course, you can pick green tomatoes, but it is more practical and correct to wait for them to fully ripen on the branch.

By simple manipulations you can speed up this process. For example, spraying the bushes with iodine solution will help achieve faster ripening. To prepare it, only a few drops of pharmaceutical iodine are used in a bucket of water. Another technique is to turn the branches with fruits to the sunny side, after which they are fixed in this position.

If large brown fruits ripen on plants, it is better to pick them at the stage of incomplete ripeness so that the ripening of the remaining fruits is not inhibited. Pinching the top of the plant will also help speed up the reddening process. For the same purpose, all leaves located below the fruit cluster are torn off (this must be done gradually, and not at once). On low-growing varieties, it is necessary to leave a maximum of 4-5 bunches, in this case the tomatoes will ripen much faster.

On a note! Another trick to achieve accelerated ripening of fruits is to tighten the trunk with copper wire at a height of 5 cm above the ground. This technique reduces the supply of moisture from the roots to the vegetative mass, which limits the growth of leaves and forces the plant to devote all its energy to fruiting.

Hybrids always ripen earlier than varietal representatives of tomatoes. The difference is about a month. Determinate varieties ripen faster than indeterminate (tall) varieties. It is permissible to harvest fruits at the stage of technical maturity. It can be determined by the cut of the fruit. If the inside of the tomato is pink, it means that it is already quite suitable for eating.

By selectively harvesting fruits, you will increase the total amount of harvest. It is permissible to leave saturated green tomatoes on the bushes until the first days of September. Tomatoes that were not picked from the branch in time lose their taste and reduce overall yield.

On a note! If you need to preserve the harvest for as long as possible, pick tomatoes at the stage of milky or brown ripeness. They can be stored for a month or more.

After the harvest is harvested, it is time to take care of the greenhouse. The first step is to restore order in the building. The presence of pathogenic microorganisms and pests in the greenhouse largely depends on cleaning. It is necessary to carefully collect all plant debris and remove the top layer of soil 5-7 cm thick - this is where the larvae of pests live, which do not always die in winter. You cannot add soil to replace the removed soil after growing other plants. It is better if it is absolutely fresh soil.

The walls of the greenhouse also need to be given attention, removing all dust and dirt from them. Next, it is recommended to carry out disinfection using sulfur bombs, fumigating the entire structure with them. After airing the greenhouse, the walls are washed with a brush and rinsed with a hose. The soil is carefully dug up and then fertilized with a mixture of manure, peat and humus. Sand and ash are scattered over the fertilizers, after which straw is laid out. After the first snow appears, it is advisable to throw a snow mass on the beds, which will protect the ground from freezing, and in the spring it will become a source of moisture.

Tomatoes in a greenhouse. Details about care: video

When caring for tomatoes in a greenhouse, even experienced gardeners can make mistakes. Plants will immediately signal this with their appearance, so you should always carefully monitor tomatoes in order to adjust watering, fertilizing or temperature. Let's see how this can manifest itself:

• It happens that with developed and powerful stems, the upper leaves of plants curl. This phenomenon can occur with excessive watering and the application of excessive amounts of nitrogen organic fertilizers. In this case, you need to stop watering the tomatoes for 7-10 days and not ventilate the greenhouse so that the temperature inside rises and the soil dries out faster.
• If you notice that the “butts” of some tomatoes are turning black, it means that the plants have been affected by blossom end rot. An outbreak can occur due to a sharp increase in temperature and improper feeding. To correct the situation, diseased fruits are removed and the tomatoes are treated with an infusion of wood ash.
• Due to insufficient watering at high temperatures, ovaries and flowers may fall off. In this case, it is necessary to water the plants more often and regularly ventilate the greenhouse.
• Plantings should not be too dense, as this promotes the development of late blight. When planting seedlings in a greenhouse, you need to maintain a distance of about 60 cm between plants, promptly remove the resulting shoots, and tear off the leaves on the lower part of the trunk. Late blight can also develop in conditions of low temperature and high humidity. If the temperature in the greenhouse has dropped, water the tomatoes less often.

If you follow all the rules for caring for tomatoes in a greenhouse, then problems with growing them will be avoided. Over time, you will definitely find “your” varieties that will delight you with excellent taste and high yield. If desired, every gardener can “make friends” with this crop.

Today it is difficult to find gardeners who would not grow tomatoes in their garden plots. With equal success, this vegetable can be grown in open ground and greenhouses. The possibility of getting a good harvest and the ease of caring for tomatoes makes them quite popular among summer residents and gardeners.

We will tell you how to properly grow tomatoes in greenhouses.

Selecting tomato varieties for growing in a greenhouse

In specialty gardening stores you can find dozens, if not hundreds of different varieties of tomatoes. All this invariably complicates the choice; summer residents often cannot choose the right variety that would be suitable for growing in greenhouses. Breeders have developed special varieties intended exclusively for cultivation in greenhouses.

With proper care, these varieties of tomatoes will allow you to get a harvest with excellent taste. You just need to properly care for the plantings and follow the technology for growing vegetables in a greenhouse.

When choosing tomato varieties, you should first determine whether the grown crop will be used for canning or fresh consumption. You can choose varieties of tomatoes that differ in the size of the fruit and their purpose.

The Cherry, Ryabchik, and Hermitage varieties are very popular when growing tomatoes in greenhouses.

Preparing the greenhouse

When growing tomatoes, remember that this is a light and heat-loving crop. The favorable temperature for growing this vegetable is in the range of 20 - 25 degrees.

That is why you need to correctly determine the place where the greenhouse will be installed. Experts advise choosing the most illuminated areas for the location of such a greenhouse.

If you use film greenhouses, then you should build structures with several layers of polyethylene, and the air gap inside will provide additional insulation to the greenhouse.

Do not forget about the need to install vents on the sides, which will provide adequate ventilation in the greenhouse.

By properly arranging your greenhouse, you can greatly simplify growing tomatoes.

Preparing the soil for tomato seedlings

When growing tomatoes, remember that the quality of the soil determines the subsequent yield and success of growing tomatoes in a greenhouse. This crop is fastidious in terms of proper soil preparation. The optimal content of microelements in the soil will ensure the full growth of plants and their high-quality fruiting.

• It is recommended to dilute loamy soils with sawdust, humus and peat.
• Turf, humus and dry sawdust are added to peat soils.
• It is recommended to add sand with humus to the black soil.

Regardless of the type of soil, it is necessary to add appropriate mineral fertilizers: superphosphate with saltpeter, after which the soil is thoroughly dug up.

Note that without soil preparation, even high-quality seedlings will not give any good results. That is why pay due attention to soil preparation issues.

The beds are formed a week before the seedlings are directly planted in the ground. It is necessary to form beds about 40 centimeters high and 100 centimeters wide.

To simplify the use of the greenhouse, leave a 70-centimeter wide passage between the beds. Before directly planting tomato seedlings in the ground, the soil should be well loosened and moistened.

Transplanting tomato seedlings into the ground

As soon as the seedlings reach a height of 30 centimeters, they can be transplanted into the ground. Most summer residents perform this transplantation of seedlings in early May.

When planting plants, it is necessary to maintain a minimum distance, which for medium-sized varieties is 40 centimeters, and for tall bushes 60 centimeters.

Young bushes must be planted vertically and the stem covered with soil up to the first leaves. A small amount of mineral fertilizers and organic matter is added to the prepared soil before planting. It is also recommended to spill the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Tomato care

When growing tomatoes, you need to remember that the yield of this vegetable directly depends on how well the plant was cared for. Proper care of tomatoes is as follows:

• Carrying out gartering of bushes.
• Loosening and weeding of the soil.
• Stepsonning.
• Timely application of fertilizers.
• Regular and timely watering.
• Protection from diseases.

Only an integrated approach to growing this vegetable will allow you to get an excellent harvest. Seedlings need to be watered every five days.

Excessive watering has a negative effect on the condition of tomatoes, so try to water this garden crop correctly.

Many gardeners have a negative attitude towards the prospect of using fertilizers and refuse to fertilize. However, in reality, this only worsens the harvest, and with the right choice of fertilizers and compliance with dosages, you will in no way worsen the quality of the tomatoes grown.

Mullein and nitrophoska are used for feeding. They also fertilize with potassium sulfate, and additionally add superphosphate and ash.

Watch a video on how to plant tomatoes

The fight against various pests that harm tomato plantings presents certain difficulties for gardeners. Common pests include wireworms, mole crickets, and whiteflies.

You can purchase the appropriate chemicals to avoid problems with such pests. You should not forget about treating plantings against late blight and blackleg.

This protective spraying against diseases is carried out three times:

• The first treatment is 20 days after transplanting the seedlings into the ground.
• The second treatment is performed after 20 days.
• The third spraying is performed when flowering appears on the bushes.

Also remember the need to regularly harvest ripe tomatoes, this will help increase the overall yield when growing tomatoes.

Alina Sokolova, especially for

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Even a novice gardener, growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, can achieve quite decent results in the form of well-developed fruits and increased yield (about 2-3 times more than with open planting). In addition, tomatoes in greenhouse conditions ripen already at the beginning of summer, when their value is at its peak. Having a well-ventilated greenhouse, thoughtful organization of watering and following several recommendations are the necessary requirements for obtaining early vegetables.

Early tomatoes are very nutritious

To harvest early, start growing tomatoes in a greenhouse by sowing seeds for seedlings. This method gives the planned number of young plants with a strong root system and an earlier entry into the fruiting period. The subsequent development of the plants and, accordingly, the final result depend on how strong the seedlings turn out.

An important step is choosing a tomato variety.

So that the quality of purchased seeds does not disappoint, and caring for tomatoes does not turn out to be unexpectedly labor-intensive, take care in advance about choosing their variety. You should not give preference to high-yielding varieties - they are often more demanding, and it becomes quite difficult to provide the necessary conditions. Pay much more attention to endurance, which determines the plant’s margin of safety under adverse circumstances.

It is also advisable to decide whether the seeds of hybrid tomatoes are suitable for achieving the goal - they are quite resistant to diseases, ripen early and produce tomatoes of even size and color, but are completely unsuitable for preparing seeds for the next season. Hybrids can be easily recognized by the F1 marking. If there is no such designation, therefore, this seed material will produce plants capable of reproduction.

There are also determinate and indeterminate varieties. The first include plants with limited growth potential, which are suitable for a small greenhouse or for planting along the perimeter of an arched greenhouse. The latter grow as far as conditions allow and produce 40–50 fruit clusters - these types are optimal for growing tomatoes in a greenhouse in winter. During the period of development, they must be tied up and shaped.

Table of popular tomato varieties

The process of preparing planting material

Preparing tomato seeds for sowing involves culling, disinfection and germination. First, on a clean sheet of paper, select the largest and most even samples, removing broken and visually weak ones. Then dilute 2 tbsp in a liter of water. l. salt and leave the seed in the resulting saline solution for 5–7 minutes. The floating seeds are hollow and must also be removed.

Disinfection helps accelerate the germination and development of healthy tomatoes. According to the classical method, soak the seeds for 20 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 gram of potassium permanganate per 1 liter of water), however, disinfection can also be carried out in an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide (3 ml of peroxide per 100 grams of water). Heat the liquid to 40 degrees and immerse the grains in it for 10 minutes. After both procedures, wash them thoroughly in clean water.

It is better to germinate seeds not immediately in the ground, but after placing them on damp foam rubber or cloth and covering them with a napkin on top.

Do not carry out this procedure in water, as the seed requires oxygen and may suffocate. After 16–18 hours, the seed should swell - all this time it is necessary to monitor it so that the wet base does not dry out. After the sprouts appear, you can begin to prepare the soil for planting.

Requirements for soil for seedlings

Ordinary garden soil is not suitable for tomato seedlings - it is heavy, poorly permeable to moisture, and unbalanced in composition and acidity. Instead, it is better to purchase a ready-made soil mixture for growing tomatoes in a greenhouse - the video below explains their advantages and disadvantages. The purchased soil mixture can be improved by adding equal parts of black soil and sand to it. Such soil will be highly nutritious, loose and have optimal acidity.

High-quality soil can also be prepared from 3 parts of high-moor peat and 1 part of sand. Add vermiculite as a natural growth stimulator (the proportions in relation to the finished soil are 1:2), and to regulate humidity - hydrogel granules (1:5). Place shell rock, broken brick or expanded clay on the bottom of the seedling boxes - this 10-15 mm thick layer will serve as drainage.

Sowing seeds - basic rules

Start preparatory and sowing work 2 months before the planned transplantation of seedlings into the greenhouse. You cannot rush and plant seeds too early, since the greenhouse soil will not have time to warm up, and the seedlings will outgrow and stretch out. In this regard, if possible, coordinate the planting time as accurately as possible with local climatic conditions or use special calendars for agricultural technicians.

There are few rules for sowing, but they are important for obtaining uniform, strong seedlings:

• follow a pattern in which small tomatoes will feel comfortable: 1–2 cm between sprouts and 3 cm between rows;
• planting depth - no more than 10 mm, otherwise the seedlings will be weakened;
• after sowing, moisten the soil with a spray bottle so that it settles;
• Cover containers with future tomatoes with film or glass and place in a warm place (about 23 degrees).

If everything is done correctly, after 3–7 days friendly shoots of tomatoes should appear, after which remove the cover.

As the soil dries, it is necessary to water it, strictly avoiding waterlogging. Rainwater, purified tap water, or water that has been standing for 24 hours is ideal for irrigation. Ventilate the room regularly and gradually reduce the temperature to 17–19 degrees. When the cotyledon leaves open, calibrate the seedlings by removing defective ones and those that have not dropped the seed capsule.

Tomato seedlings in a box

Tomatoes are quite demanding in terms of lighting, so in cloudy weather they should be illuminated with phytolamps so that the daylight hours reach 12 hours. If you do not have special equipment, place the boxes with seedlings on a well-lit windowsill, placing blocks under them and thus creating a slope of about 25 degrees. On the other hand, experienced gardeners advise placing a sheet of foil or a mirror that will reflect light rays.

You can increase the quality and yield of tomatoes using fertilizing. Carry them out along with watering, adding to 10 liters. heated water 10 g ammonium nitrate, 30 g superphosphate, 20 g potassium sulfate. Fertilize the soil with this solution 10 days after the first thinning of the seedlings. If it grows poorly and the stems are purple in color, the composition of the first feeding should be different: per 10 liters. water - 0.5 kg of organic fertilizer and 70 g of ash.

Technique for picking tomatoes

After 3-4 weeks, when the seedlings have thrown out two true leaves, they will need more space to feed and grow. At this time, perform a dive, that is, transplant the tomatoes into separate containers - paper or peat cups, cassettes, tablets, homemade nutrient cubes or plastic bags. To stimulate the formation of a fibrous root system, when transplanting, shorten the main root by about a third.

The day before the pick, prepare everything you need:

• a special spatula (can be replaced with a peg or a disposable teaspoon);
• containers filled with the same mixture that was used to sow the seeds;
• 1% solution of potassium permanganate;
• water for irrigation;
• spray.

To eliminate pathogens of various diseases, disinfect containers and soil with potassium permanganate within a few hours (solution consumption is approximately 500 ml/m2).

Picking tomatoes in progress

To make replanting easier and minimize damage to the roots, water the seedlings themselves thoroughly and wait until the water saturates the soil. After this, use a spatula to pry up part of the soil along with several plants, removing weak and damaged specimens. For strong seedlings, pinch off part of the root and transplant them into a hole of such depth that the root remains even. Compact the tomato soil a little and moisten it well.

After picking, hide the seedlings from direct sunlight in a cool place. After 2-3 days, when it has taken root, return it to the windowsill, while protecting it from excessive overheating. 2 weeks before planting tomatoes in the greenhouse, take care of hardening the seedlings: open the window during the day, and then at night, take them outside, gradually increasing the period of their presence in the fresh air.

Final planting of tomatoes in greenhouse soil

As soon as the threat of frost has passed and the seedlings have 1-2 formed inflorescences, move them to the greenhouse. A few days before this, carry out the preparatory work: break the holes and water them generously, remove the yellowed and cotyledon leaves from the seedlings, as well as the 2-3 lowest true leaves. Their removal promotes more adequate ventilation and lighting.

The further scheme of work looks like this:

1. Before planting, water the tomatoes in pots so as not to injure the root system when removing them.
2. Transfer the seedling along with the earthen ball into the hole, placing it strictly vertically.
3. Cover the root with soil, spread some compost around the stem, cover it with soil and tamp it down lightly.
4. Fill the hole with 1.5 liters of water and mulch it with peat or dry grass.
5. Install a 60 cm high peg near each plant - it will be needed for gartering tomatoes in the greenhouse.

The distance between tomatoes depends on the variety, so when replanting, follow the recommendations of the seed manufacturer.

Find instructions on agricultural technology on the packaging

Plant staking and artificial pollination

12 days after planting, tomatoes can already be tied up, but quickly ripening and low-growing varieties do not need this procedure. Before staking the bush, first remove the stepsons - additional shoots that grow in the axil of the true leaves. Ovaries and fruits may also appear on them, which leads to overload of the entire plant. This cannot be allowed, so pick the stepsons before they reach a length of 5 cm.

It is convenient to tie medium-sized tomatoes to pegs (they can be any available material - fittings, slats, rods) with a fairly wide string or twine. It is more advisable to fix tall tomatoes to a trellis - a vertical support, which is a mesh of wooden or metal posts and wire stretched over them. After making the trellis mesh, it is enough to thread the twine or wire in turn on one and the other side of the bush.

Ripening of the tomato variety Pepper-shaped

Since there are virtually no insects in the greenhouse ecosystem, artificial pollination is required to set tomatoes.

To do this, gently shake each flower cluster, then spray them with a spray bottle and water the soil near the stem. It is optimal if this procedure is carried out from 8 to 10 am and repeated after 2–4 days. For better tying, you can use specialized preparations such as “Ovary”, “Bud”, “Energen”.

Basic Care and Supplementation Methods

Caring for growing tomatoes consists of sufficient, but not excessive watering: do not pour more than 6 liters of water at a temperature of about 20 degrees per 1 m2 more than once every 5-6 days. During the period of flowering and fruit set, increase the volume of water to 10 liters. It is very important to ensure regular ventilation (for this, even at the design stage of the greenhouse, provide several side and end windows).

Ventilating the greenhouse during the day

The question of whether it is necessary to fertilize tomatoes in a greenhouse is often disputed by experts, since well-prepared greenhouse soil can “feed” a sufficient volume of the crop. Opponents of this opinion argue that plants in an enclosed space, especially during the growth stage, quickly deplete their nutrient reserves, therefore, they need to be replenished regularly.

A compromise option is to fertilize twice during the entire growing season for healthy plants, or every 10–12 days for tomatoes with visible growth defects. Prepare organic additives yourself from dry manure or chicken droppings (1 bucket or 2 kg per 100 liters of water, respectively). Let the mixture brew for 24 hours, and only after that pour it over the tomatoes at the rate of 2 liters for each stem.

Alternate organic fertilizers with complex mineral fertilizers, for example, nitroammophos. The nutritional composition can also be prepared from equal parts of potassium sulfate, superphosphate and ammonium nitrate. It can be applied either in dry form, scattered on the ground, or in liquid form, dissolved in water for irrigation.

Ground feeding of tomatoes

By studying the basics of growing seedlings and providing proper care for tomatoes in a greenhouse, you can achieve an impressive harvest in the first year. If, for some unknown reason, tomatoes grow poorly or look sickly, contact a specialist who, based on the appearance of the plant, will determine how to correct this or that error. And, of course, as you gain experience, the results will only delight you!