The device is a panoramic indicator (scanning receiver) with a spectrum image displayed on a graphic liquid crystal display.

I call this device a “scanner”. What he can do:

• The device allows you to observe the power spectrum of the signal emitted by the satellite (for the scanner, the signal source is a downconverter). Each satellite has its own unique spectrum, which allows it to be identified.

There are 2 observation modes:

• overview 950…1950 MHz (first IF)

In this mode, there is a moving viewfinder at the bottom of the screen. Only the frequency of the viewer, the presence of a 22 kHz signal and polarization (H/V), a low battery indicator and current consumption in the converter circuit are displayed.

• stretch mode 4 times. (photo taken in this mode)

If you switch to this mode from the overview mode, the signal to which the viewfinder was aimed appears in the center of the screen. In this mode, the level, frequency of the converter local oscillator, air frequency, introduced attenuation, and the channel number of the disk switch are displayed.

Some options:

• input signal level 30…88 dB/µV.
• smooth sensitivity adjustment 0...25.5 dB (indicated). + 15 dB fixed button (total 40.5)
• On the LCD screen, for the convenience of assessing the signal-to-noise value, there are 3 color-inverting lines - every 5 dB. The entire dynamic range (across the LCD screen - 20 dB)

The device allows you to control a disk switch, a disk motor:

Move left

Move right

Movement in ZERO

Maintain positions 58 and 59

Go to positions 58 and 59

You can record and play back from non-volatile memory 1 photograph of a spectrum image along with the viewer frequency, signal level, air frequency, para. 22K and polarized.

It is possible to save the tuning frequency and LNB type (when turned on)

Supply voltage 10…15 volts.

Consumes about 200 mA (without powering the converter), about 500 mA (with 180 mA consumption through the converter circuit).

The principle of operation is the formation of a code for a PLL tuner, measurement of the level after the amplitude detector, indication of a vertical line on a logarithmic scale, and so on 128 times - a picture of the spectrum is obtained.

At the input we use a selector (tuner) from an old analog receiver NTV+ STRONG 300, a synthesizer there at 7215, then we lower the 480 MHz IF to 38 on the TV selector, then the detector and on the ADC PIC16F873A (28 legs). By changing the AGC voltage on the TV selector, we change its gain by adjusting the sensitivity. The program guesses about the introduced attenuation by measuring the AGC voltage and converts it into dB to indicate the introduced attenuation and calculate the signal level.

When installing, you often have to carry a rather bulky set of setup equipment with you. Therefore, if we take into account that the satellite dish itself may be in a hard-to-reach place, then this setup method becomes very inconvenient. In this regard, some users use special equipment for this setup (signal indicators, analyzers, etc.), which are connected near the installed satellite dish.

Nowadays, a fairly popular way to set up a satellite dish is to set up the antenna using the Sat-Finder device.

Based on this, in this article we will talk about setting up a satellite dish yourself using one of the few budget models Sat Finder.

Sat Finder:

Below in the photo (Photo 1), one of the Sat-Finder satellite antenna setting indicators, from the manufacturer ATLANTA, is shown.

Photo 1. Sat-Finder - ATLANTA.

This Sat-Finder is equipped with an audible signal for the presence of a satellite signal, a sensitivity regulator, an indicator of the type of polarization, and an indicator for the presence of a “22 KHz” converter band control signal. The cost of such a device, at the time of writing this page, ranged from 400 to 700 rubles.

To make it easier to understand how this device works, let's first consider the more common option for setting up satellite dishes at home, using a satellite receiver and a portable TV. This option is more popular because it usually does not involve additional costs. That is, you already have a satellite receiver, and a portable TV is often present in almost every home.

Here is the setting principle. In the very place where the satellite dish is already installed, place a small portable TV and a satellite receiver (receiver, tuner), purchased complete with the satellite dish itself. At the same time, to the installation site of the equipment, for its power supply, mains voltage 220 volt.
After this, having set the required transponder parameters in the receiver, the satellite dish is tuned to the satellite, while simultaneously looking at the TV screen until a signal appears.

With this setup option, satellite dish connected to the receiver (Fig. 1), according to the same scheme as during constant operation, with only one difference. In place of the permanent cable that goes from the converter to the room itself (where the satellite receiver will be located), a specially prepared “tuning” cable is connected.

Rice. 1 Connecting tuning equipment directly at the installation site of the satellite dish.

The length of such a cable is usually 1.5...2 meters, that is, it is just long enough from the converter to the receiver standing next to the antenna.

At setting up a satellite dish with this device, place it directly behind the satellite dish mirror itself. By doing this, you will protect the Sat-Finder from the influence of electromagnetic radio waves reflected from the spherical mirror of the antenna (since radio waves reflected from the antenna can lead to chaotic readings of the device).

Unfortunately, this setup option has a number of disadvantages, and these are:

1. At the site where the satellite dish is installed, you have to temporarily install a receiver and a portable TV.
2. If the installation site of the satellite dish itself is in a difficult-to-reach place, then difficulties arise with the placement of tuning equipment (that is, with the placement of the receiver and portable TV).
3. To power the tuning equipment, a mains voltage of 220 volts must be supplied to the location where the satellite dish is configured. In some cases, it is necessary to use an extension cord whose length can reach several tens of meters.
4. IN winter time year, there is a risk of failure of the tuning equipment due to hypothermia, since the receiver and portable TV are designed for operation at room temperature.
5. With this setup option, it takes quite a lot of time to place all the setup equipment. This is very burdensome if, for example, you are engaged in setting up satellite dishes professionally (that is, several times a day).

This fairly common option for setting up a satellite dish has advantages, and they often outweigh all the disadvantages listed above.

After setting up a satellite dish, using a receiver and a portable TV, you will be able to see the entire result of the setup at once, that is, without leaving the location where the satellite dish is installed.

With this tuning method, the mistake of tuning into the wrong satellite is also eliminated (believe me, this happens too), since by scanning this satellite, you can make sure that the package of television and radio programs belonging to it is available immediately on the screen of your portable TV.

Let's return to our device.

When using the Sat-Finder Tuning Indicator, there is NO need to install it near the satellite dish of the TV receiver. All you need is to take the device itself with you, which will easily fit in your pocket.

Connecting the Sat-Finder indicator is quite simple. You can leave the satellite receiver with a coaxial cable connected to it (going to the satellite dish converter) and leave everything as is. That is, leave the receiver in the place where it will constantly stand when watching TV channels.

There is no need to turn on the receiver's power yet.

Attention! Since there is some differential voltage potential between the converter and the receiver, in order to avoid failure of the receiver and converter, connect and disconnect the coaxial cable only when the receiver’s power is turned off (when the plug is touched to the connector, a discharge spark may slip through).

To connect the Sat-Finder indicator, as in the first option, we need a setup cable with connectors installed at both ends.

The length of this cable can be 0.5...1.5 meters, whatever is convenient for you (it is not advisable to make it too long).

Sat-Finder is connected between the converter and the satellite receiver directly at the installation site and. When connecting, pay attention to the inscriptions near the connectors on the device body itself. The setup cable (going to the converter) is connected to the connector marked “LNB”, and the cable that goes to the receiver is connected to the connector marked “REC”. The general connection diagram is shown in the figure below (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2 Connection of the Sat-Finder indicator, for satellite dish settings.

The image below (Photo 2) shows the already connected Sat-Finder to an offset satellite dish, it is placed in front of the satellite dish mirror for example only, therefore, for protection from radio waves, try to hang the Sat-Finder directly from the back of the antenna, on satellite dish hanger.

Photo 2 Connected Sat-Finder indicator.

After connecting the Sat-Finder indicator, alas, you need to return to the receiver and apply power to it. If you connect Sat-Finder while the receiver is turned on, the consequences may be different. In the best case, nothing will happen, or, for example, the receiver may freeze and you will have to “re-enable” it (turn it off and on), in the worst case, the converter or the tuner of the receiver itself may fail. In any case, I would not advise you to experiment, although... here, of course, it’s up to you to decide.

You must enter a valid transponder into the satellite receiver (or select from the list) that belongs to the satellite on which it is happening. To be more confident, I would recommend entering the transponder on which several TV channels are broadcast at once (the parameters of this transponder, as a rule, change quite rarely). Now, we leave the receiver turned on, and you can return to the installation site and satellite dish settings.

Setting up a satellite dish
using Sat-Finder

Principle satellite dish settings using the Sat-Finder indicator, quite simple. When the receiver's power is turned on, voltage is supplied to the converter itself (13 or 18 Volts), and the Sat-Finder device also turns on, which will be indicated by the illumination of its dial indicator, and a slight deflection of the device needle itself.

After turning on the power, use the indicator sensitivity control knob to set the instrument’s needle reading to approximately half the scale, or a little less (4..5 divisions). If at this level of sensitivity of the device, the Sat-Finder emits a squeak, then reduce the sensitivity further until the squeak disappears.

In order to avoid unnecessary waste of your nerves and energy, at this point I want to warn you that the model of the Sat-Finder indicator described here did not work quite correctly with some models of satellite receivers. Therefore, if you are going to study setting satellite antennas professionally, you should think about choosing a more expensive Sat-Finder model, or still use a receiver and a portable TV, since professional analyzers are quite expensive.

At the next stage, you should already have some experience in setting up satellite dishes. If this is not the case, then I recommend that you read the section Installing and configuring a satellite dish.

Now, point the satellite dish towards the desired satellite. By changing the vertical position of the antenna and its tilt, achieve the deflection of the indicator needle, if possible to the maximum value. If the indicator needle goes off scale (that is, goes to the right side beyond the edge of the scale), you should reduce the sensitivity of the device. When satellite antenna will be set according to the maximum indicator of the Sat-Finder indicator arrow, the antenna fasteners can be tightened until it stops.

Next, do not rush to disconnect the device from the satellite dish. First, you should go to the receiver and scan the selected transponder. Here, you will need to make sure that you are tuned to the correct satellite (since the parameters of some transponders may be the same for different satellites). After this check, making sure that you are configured correctly, Sat-Finder can be removed. That's basically it, setting up a satellite dish using the Sat-Finder indicator, completed.

digital automatic device

It is much easier to search for satellites and fine-tune them using a digital automatic device. The difference between a dial gauge and this one is that this gauge is fully automatic. There is no need to adjust the sensitivity of the device.

Device price : 1500-2500r.

Using the device is quite simple. The device must be connected between the receiver and the converter being tuned in close proximity to the antenna.

If you have a DiSEqC 1*4 switch installed and four converters are connected to it, then you need to connect the Satfinder before the DiSEqC switch.

Before searching for a satellite, you need to select the satellite you want to tune in the receiver’s antenna settings menu and turn on the LNB power. It is necessary to approximately point your satellite dish in azimuth by setting the approximate elevation angle (installation information should be supplied with your satellite dish). When the receiver's power is turned on, the supply voltage (13 Volts or 18 Volts) is supplied to the converter. Happening automatic switching on device, while only two segments will light up on the indicators. Slowly move the azimuth (right/left) and elevation angle (up/down) of your satellite dish until the largest number of segments on the left scale of the indicator light up. The result of measuring the signal level received by the antenna from the satellite is visually displayed on 2 LED scales and is accompanied by an audio signal. You can turn the sound signal on and off using the sound button, which is located next to the green LED. The frequency of the sound signal increases as the accuracy of the antenna alignment to the satellite improves. The green LED displays V/H (vertical/horizontal polarization). The red LED indicates the presence of the 22 kHz frequency. The right scale of the device is more sensitive and displays units of measurement, the left scale is coarser and displays tens of units of measurement. After this, tuning to the satellite is completed. Now you need to disconnect the coaxial cables from the device and connect the LNB converter to your receiver. If you have several antennas or several multi-feed converters are installed on one antenna, then you need to tune to satellite signals for each converter.

An example of indicator readings when searching for and tuning to a satellite.

In the 1st picture the antenna is not tuned to the satellite, in the 2nd the antenna is poorly tuned to the satellite, in the 3rd the antenna is tuned to the satellite by maximum level signal.

The device is a panoramic indicator (scanning receiver) with a spectrum image displayed on a graphic liquid crystal display.

I call this device a “scanner”. What he can do:

• The device allows you to observe the power spectrum of the signal emitted by the satellite (for the scanner, the signal source is a downconverter). Each satellite has its own unique spectrum, which allows it to be identified.

There are 2 observation modes:

• overview 950…1950 MHz (first IF)

In this mode, there is a moving viewfinder at the bottom of the screen. Only the frequency of the viewer, the presence of a 22 kHz signal and polarization (H/V), a low battery indicator and current consumption in the converter circuit are displayed.

• stretch mode 4 times. (photo taken in this mode)

If you switch to this mode from the overview mode, the signal to which the viewfinder was aimed appears in the center of the screen. In this mode, the level, frequency of the converter local oscillator, air frequency, introduced attenuation, and the channel number of the disk switch are displayed.

Some options:

• input signal level 30…88 dB/µV.
• smooth sensitivity adjustment 0...25.5 dB (indicated). + 15 dB fixed button (total 40.5)
• On the LCD screen, for the convenience of assessing the signal-to-noise value, there are 3 color-inverting lines - every 5 dB. The entire dynamic range (across the LCD screen - 20 dB)

The device allows you to control a disk switch, a disk motor:

Move left

Move right

Movement in ZERO

Maintain positions 58 and 59

Go to positions 58 and 59

You can record and play back from non-volatile memory 1 photograph of a spectrum image along with the viewer frequency, signal level, air frequency, para. 22K and polarized.

It is possible to save the tuning frequency and LNB type (when turned on)

Supply voltage 10…15 volts.

Consumes about 200 mA (without powering the converter), about 500 mA (with 180 mA consumption through the converter circuit).

The principle of operation is the formation of a code for a PLL tuner, measurement of the level after the amplitude detector, indication of a vertical line on a logarithmic scale, and so on 128 times - a picture of the spectrum is obtained.

At the input we use a selector (tuner) from an old analog receiver NTV+ STRONG 300, a synthesizer there at 7215, then we lower the 480 MHz IF to 38 on the TV selector, then the detector and on the ADC PIC16F873A (28 legs). By changing the AGC voltage on the TV selector, we change its gain by adjusting the sensitivity. The program guesses about the introduced attenuation by measuring the AGC voltage and converts it into dB to indicate the introduced attenuation and calculate the signal level.

Antennas and radios

I. NECHAYEV, Kursk
Radio, 1998, No. 6

Developed in the laboratory of Radio magazine

The instruments and devices developed by designer I. Nechaev receive the warmest response from our readers. Radio amateurs especially liked high-frequency devices that were simple in design - a sweeping frequency generator in the form of an attachment to a regular oscilloscope, a device for tuning NTV equipment. Since the hobby of receiving satellite programs is becoming most popular among fans of television equipment, based on numerous requests from readers, the author has developed a simple small-sized indicator for pointing parabolic antennas at a satellite, which is convenient to use directly at the antenna installation point.

The small-sized indicator is designed for precise pointing of a parabolic antenna to a geostationary satellite. It works in conjunction with a converter of the 11 and 12 GHz bands with an intermediate frequency range of 0.85...1.9 GHz. The minimum level of the indicated signal is 50 µV. The device, as well as the converter, is powered either from autonomous source voltage 12...20 V, or from the receiver of the satellite receiving system via a reduction cable.

A feature of this design is selectivity, and unlike the similar one described in, it allows not only tuning to the maximum signal, but also analyzing the frequency loading of the IF range of the output signal of the converter, which makes it possible to determine with great reliability the satellite to which the antenna was tuned . This property is very important, since it is easy to make an initial orientation error of just a few degrees, but the abundance and close positional arrangement of satellites can lead to the fact that you tune in not to the desired one, but to the neighboring satellite. Therefore, reliable antenna tuning is usually impossible without visual monitoring of the received programs using the receiver and TV, and this in turn requires communication between the operator at the antenna and the observer at the TV, which is not always convenient or possible.

The schematic diagram of the device is shown in Fig. 1. It is built according to a superheterodyne receiver circuit with zero intermediate frequency. Its microwave part includes a current-controlled generator in the range 0.85...1.9 GHz, assembled on transistors VT3, VT4, a buffer stage on VT2 and a mixer on VT1. The IF path includes an amplifier on transistors VT5 - VT7 and a detector on diodes VD1, VD2.

Satellite dish pointing indicator diagram

The signal level is indicated by microammeter PA1. Sensitivity is quickly regulated by resistor R9.

A parametric voltage stabilizer is assembled on transistors VT9, VT10 and a zener diode VD3, and an adjustable current source for powering the generator is built on transistor VT8. The generator frequency is changed by changing the current using resistor R17.

The device works as follows. The microwave signal from the output of the converter through socket XW1 is supplied to the input of the mixer - the base of transistor VT1, and at the same time the generator signal is sent to the emitter of this transistor. The IF signal is isolated on resistor R5 and goes to the input of the first stage of the IF on transistor VT5, then to the level regulator on potentiometer R9, and from it to the final stage on transistors VT6, VT7.

The bandwidth of the amplifier is approximately from 0.1 to 10 MHz. And since the receiver has zero central IF, the total bandwidth is about 20 MHz, which approximately corresponds to the frequency band of one satellite television channel. Due to the fact that the satellite signal has frequency modulation, its energy is not concentrated on one frequency, but is, as it were, “spread out” in a certain frequency band. It is this that the amplifier amplifies, and then the signal is detected and sent to the level indicator - microammeter RA1.

To create normal working conditions in poor lighting, backlight lamps are introduced into the device, which are turned on by switch SA2. Switch SA4 is used to control the supply voltage. It connects the microammeter to the power bus through resistor R21. Turning on the converter's power is performed by switch SA1, and switching operating modes by switch SA3: in its upper position the device is turned off, on average it is powered from an autonomous source (batteries or network block power), which is connected to the XS1 socket, and in the lower one - power is supplied from the receiver through a reduction cable. The converter is connected to socket XW1, and the reduction cable is connected to XW2.

The converter is powered through the L1C4 filter, and when powered from the receiver, the voltage to the device and the converter is supplied through the L2C7 filter.

Structurally, the device is designed like this. Its basis is a printed circuit board made of double-sided foil fiberglass 1.5 mm thick. At the same time, it serves as the front panel, on which most of the parts are located (except for the parts of the amplifier), all the switches, a microammeter, as well as sockets XW1, XW2 (on metal corners). A sketch of the board is shown in Fig. 2. Its second side is left metallized and connected by soldering along the circuit to the common power bus of the first side.

The amplifier is assembled on a separate printed circuit board (Fig. 3). It is attached directly to the microammeter using glue and connected to a common wire in several places.

The following parts can be used in the device: transistors VT1, VT2 - KT3123A-2, KT3123B-2, KT3123V-2; VT3, VT4 - KT3132A-2, KT3132B-2, KT3124A-2, KT3124B-2; VT6, VT7 - KT316, KT315 with letter indices from A to D; VT8 - KP302B,V, KP307A; VT9 - KT815, KT816 with letter indices from A to G and similar; VT10 - KP303G, KP303D.

In the microwave part, it is necessary to use frameless capacitors - K10-17, K10-42 and high-frequency resistors C2-10, RN1-12, in the rest you can use KM, KLS and similar imported ones. Trimmer resistor - SPZ-19, variables - SPO, SP4. Fixed resistors - MLT, S2-33.

Coils L1 - L3 are wound with PEV-2 0.4 wire on a 3 mm mandrel and contain 7...9 turns. Coils L4, L5 are made in the form of strip lines (see Fig. 2) - they are similar to those described in detail in. Coil L6 is a normalized inductor of the DM-0.1 type, its inductance can be selected within the range of 200...500 μH.

Diodes - any high-frequency low-power ones, preferably germanium or with a Schottky barrier, zener diode - low-power for a stabilization voltage of 10...12 V.

Switches and socket XS1 - any small ones, incandescent lamps - SMN 6.3-20, microammeter - M4762-M1 with a total deviation current of 200 µA.

When installing a microwave part, the leads of the parts must be made to the minimum possible length. If you use a housing of a different configuration, then printed circuit board can be remade by doing it in any form (except for the microwave part).

The setup should begin by setting up the microwave generator. To do this, it is better to use a frequency meter with an operating frequency of up to 2 GHz; it is connected to the collector of transistor VT2. In the left position of resistor R17 in the diagram, by selecting resistor R16, the lower limit tuning frequency is set, and by choosing the value of resistor R17, the tuning range is selected. In the author's copy of the device, the generator frequency varied from 700 MHz to 2 GHz when the current through transistors VT3, VT4 changed from 13 to 0.8 mA. To obtain a smoother setting, you will have to select a resistor R17 with a small jump in the initial resistance and a logarithmic characteristic.

If you don't have a frequency meter, you can use your receiver to set it up. To do this, its input is connected to the input of the device (socket XW1). The receiver is tuned in frequency, and resistor R17 is used to tune the generator to the same frequency; the moment of tuning is determined by the appearance of the signal in the form of interference on the TV screen. In this way, you can calibrate the scale of this resistor.

Then resistor R9 is set to the top position in the diagram and resistor R18 is used to set such a level of its own noise so that the pointer of the pointer device is slightly deflected. After this, it is advisable to check the sensitivity and tuning range using a measuring microwave generator. If this cannot be done, you need to connect the device to a converter installed on the tuned antenna. The noise should increase, and after that, by adjusting the device in frequency, they tune in to satellite channels.

If the arrow goes off scale, then the gain must be reduced using resistor R9. Having tuned to a weak signal, far removed from more powerful ones, by selecting resistor R3, maximum sensitivity is achieved. For ease of use, the most frequently received satellite television programs, for example, “NTV-plus” or “Eurosport”, are marked on the scale for different polarizations. It happens that without connecting to the converter, the arrow constantly goes off scale at any position of R9 or goes off scale in certain parts of the range - this means that, most likely, the device is self-exciting. It will be necessary to carry out the installation more carefully, reduce the length of the connecting wires and, possibly, increase the capacity of the blocking capacitors.

If you have a measuring generator, the instrument scale can be calibrated in voltage units; in this case, resistor R9 must be replaced with a switch with a resistive divider, which will act as a fixed attenuator.

LITERATURE

1. Zhuk V. Indicator of antenna pointing to the satellite. - Radio, 1994, No. 12, p. 4, 5.
2. Nechaev I. Prefix-GKCH for the ranges 300...900 and 800...1950 MHz. - Radio, 1995, No. 1, p.ZZ.
3. Nechaev I. Device for setting up NTV equipment. - Radio, 1998, ╧ 3, p. 10 - 12; No. 4, pp. 14, 15.

In any group, be it large or small, in a student group, in a school class, in a word, wherever people live or work, in addition to their first and last names, for some reason they assign nicknames to each other. Whether it’s because it’s shorter or more fun, I don’t know. In our village, many people also have such nicknames.

I won’t write about other people’s nicknames here, but I’ll say it for myself – here behind my back they call me TELESPUTNIK. This is because I repair TVs and stuff. household appliances, and also very often install and configure satellite dishes.

I’ll tell you how to quickly and correctly set up any satellite dish at minimal cost using the example of the Tricolor satellite.

First, a little economics.
When purchasing a set of satellite equipment, the seller will definitely offer you the services of specialists (usually his friends) to install it, because the vast majority of buyers do not know how to install satellite dishes.

With the cost of equipment sets, for example, 9...10 thousand rubles (Tricolor), or 5...8 thousand rubles. (Telecard), the cost of installation services in our area ranges from 1.5 thousand rubles to 2.5 thousand rubles, depending on the complexity installation work. Not 15 kopecks, however.

And in order to install an antenna in a rural area, you will also have to pay for the technician’s travel there and back, at the rate of approximately 7...8 rubles. per kilometer, because he will come to you not by bus, but with his tools and instruments in his car. And then the cost of installing a satellite dish increases significantly.

That’s why they turn to me, because I do it cheaper, and I don’t charge money for the journey...

To install a satellite dish yourself, you will need the following.

1. Set of satellite equipment (dish, receiver, converter, antenna wire)
2. Sat Finder antenna tuning device (any brand and model)
3. Adapters, F-connectors, 2 pcs.
4. Three self-clamping anchor bolts M6 X 120..150 mm, if the walls of the house are stone
5. Three large bolts - wood self-tapping screw M6 X 150...200 mm, if the walls are wooden
6. Hammer, if the walls are stone
7. Wrenches or adjustable wrenches, 10, 13, 14, 17 (depending on the bolts)
8. Compass.
9. A piece of antenna wire 1.5..2 meters

There are many satellites in the sky (or rather, in space). They hang there motionless, in geostationary orbit, rotating with the earth, at a distance of approximately 36,000 km, and naturally, are not visible. Each satellite is located in its own point of space assigned only to it. The location of each satellite is precisely known, it is immutable, and it is very precisely maintained. In order to understand how the satellites are located and where they are, imagine...a rainbow. The satellites are located in approximately the same arc above the horizon, from its left edge to the right. Depending on where in our big country Where you live, you will be able to “see” with your antennas a little more or a little less of various satellites.

In addition, the name of the satellite usually contains a number, for example, 36E, 85E, 90E, 5W, 9W, which indicates the longitude over which it hangs, that is, the approximate direction to this satellite on the horizon.

But in our case, the sun and compass will be used to determine the direction to the satellite.

First of all, before installing the antenna, you need to decide on which side of the house it should be installed. For the area where I live (Bashkortostan, 56 degrees east longitude) and the Tricolor satellite, this will be the southern side, approximately the place from which the sun is clearly visible from 12 to 14 o'clock in the afternoon. There should be no interference in the form of trees, roofs, or high-voltage power lines between you and the sun (satellite). The height of installation of the antenna on the wall does not matter; mount it where it is more convenient for you to adjust it, just so that the antenna does not interfere with the driveway or passage. For example, I have one of the antennas standing directly on the ground, on an iron stand. I don’t recommend placing an antenna on the roof; you’ll be tortured to climb later if something happens to it. Naturally, the dish should not be mounted under the edge of the roof either, so that rain, snow and ice do not subsequently fall on the antenna. It should be possible to rotate the antenna when adjusting to the left and right as widely as possible.
Here's an example of what it looks like.

Therefore, the procedure for adjusting the position of the plate is approximately the same as if you came to a shooting range and began to aim at the target, standing with your back to it, through a mirror.

If the wall of the house is wooden, then the process of attaching the plate should be treated with special care, making sure that the screws get into the supporting structure of the house, into a beam, into a log or into a partition. If you simply screw a plate onto boards or onto a lathing, then when the humidity changes (summer - autumn - winter - spring), the wood will swell a little or shrink a little, the plate will move, and the signal will disappear. This has happened many times in my practice.

The accuracy of the installation of the satellite dish greatly affects the quality of reception; the permissible vibration or error here is no more than 3 (three!) millimeters.

After the plate is secured, first set the position of the mirror strictly vertically, level or plumb, and then tilt it back a little by 1.5..2 centimeters. Do not overtighten the bolts on the plate mounting.

This photo clearly shows how far the plate needs to be tilted.

Now that all connections have been checked and you can hear the noise crackling in the device, begin to slowly, very slowly move the plate horizontally to the left and then to the right. As the dish moves, you will hear several different signals from different satellites (there are many of them). Your task is to choose the strongest of them and leave the plate in this position.

Return to the TV. According to the instructions for the receiver, conduct an initial search for channels. Operator – Tricolor, region – Chelyabinsk or Ural. If the dish is configured correctly, you will see a list of many channels. Check if there is Tricolor - Info and Tricolor channels - Promo, TV-TV, TV2-TV among them. These channels should work even without activating the access card.

After all the channels have been found, return to the dish and carefully, so as not to lose the setting, secure all the fastenings of the dish and all the bolts and nuts with keys, controlling the signal strength on the device.

After fixing the antenna and checking the image on the TV, turn off the device and connect the wire from the receiver to the converter on the dish. This completes the setup. From the Tricolor satellite you will be able to watch about ten free channels and about 300 paid ones. Now you should register your equipment with the operator by calling the special number specified in the instructions for the receiver. After registering the equipment, all channels found during setup will become available for viewing.

I think that viewing will be much more pleasant if you consider that the entire budget of our enterprise (with nails and electrical tape) is at the level of 700...800 rubles.

As practice has shown, the Sat Finder device will come in handy more than once. Whether there is a strong wind, or snow and ice, or some kind of reconstruction in the house, you can always go and adjust the shifted antenna, both at your place and at your neighbor’s.

Yes, just in case, I will give the parameters for the Intelsat 15 85E satellite, for the Telecard. The azimuth is 143 degrees, the elevation angle, that is, the “falling over” of the plate, is the same as that of the Tricolor. The rest of the setup method is exactly the same.

Enjoy watching!