Steel roofs are currently of limited use due to metal savings. Roofing steel is used in residential construction to cover eaves, gutters, dormers, protruding decorative elements of buildings and for drainpipes. In addition, roofing steel is used for repairing existing steel roofs, as well as for covering industrial buildings, belts, sandstones and window flashings on building facades.

Installation of a steel roof. The steel roof is made from galvanized and black roofing steel sheets measuring 1420x710 mm. Before use, determine the correctness of their dimensions and the squareness of the corners. Sheets with deviations from standard sizes are sorted and subsequently used to prepare roofing elements that do not require exact dimensions, for example, for drainpipes and drains. On standard sheets, bulges are removed with hammers. To prepare various products, the material is marked onto the workpieces using measuring instruments and tools, and marks are made on the metal. Then, according to the markings, the steel sheet is cut with various types of scissors, depending on the thickness of the sheet. Pictures are prepared for ordinary covering of roof slopes, eaves overhangs, wall gutters, and gutters. The picture is an element of the roof covering, the edges of which are prepared for a seam connection. Usually they are made of two sheets, less often single. The paintings on the roof are connected into strips the length of the slope, i.e. from the cornice to the ridge. The strips are attached to the sheathing with narrow strips of roofing steel (clamps), which are inserted into the standing seams when they are bent at one end, and nailed to the sheathing beam with the other. Double lying folds are coated with mortar, and the folds of galvanized paintings are soldered. Roofing sheet steel for preparing pictures or links of drainpipes must have smooth planes with right angles. In Fig. Figure 30 shows types of seam connections.

Rice. thirty. :
a - bend of the edge for a single recumbent fold; b - joining sheets with a single folded seam; c - edge bend for double rebated fold; d - joining sheets with a double folded fold; d - bends in edge sheets for a single standing seam; e - joining sheets with a single standing seam; g - bends at the edges for a double standing seam; h - intermediate bend for double standing seam; and - double standing seam connection.

Seam joints are divided into recumbent and standing according to their appearance, and into single and double according to the degree of compaction. Rebate dimensions in Fig. 30 are given for sheets with a thickness of 0.45...0.7 mm. For thicker sheets, the dimensions of the bends increase by 20%. The long lateral edges of the sheets running along the slope are connected by standing folds, and the horizontal ones by lying ones. Roof slopes are covered with strips made up of sequentially connected patterns. To cover the roof, 85...90% of double paintings and 10...15% of single paintings are required, which are sometimes necessary for addition in stripes. The eaves overhang begins with the installation of pins with brackets and T-shaped crutches, nailed to the sheathing. The pins are placed along the axes of the water intake funnels, and the crutches are placed 700 mm apart from each other with tolerances of ±30 mm. The distance between the pin and the nearest spike should be 200...400 mm (Fig. 31).

Rice. 31. :
a - general view; b - recumbent fold; c - standing seam; d - a picture of two sheets; d - fastening sheets with clamps.

Pictures for covering the eaves overhang are connected at the watershed with a single recumbent seam. Gutters, trays, funnels of drainpipes and the pipes themselves are elements of a single water intake system. Bends of lying folds are made in the direction of the slope. The top part of the trays is secured under the sheets of the gutter, and the sides are fastened to it. The funnels of the drainpipes should be attached not to the trays, but to the descent of the eaves with a special stepladder; When attached to trays, the funnel together with the tray may come off if clogged or frozen. The design of the wall gutter and water inlet funnel is shown in Fig. 32.

Rice. 32. :
1 - pin with bracket; 2 - water intake funnel; 3 - tray; 4 - flooring of grooves; 5 - rafter leg; 6 - cornice flooring; 7 - sheathing; 8 - picture of the wall gutter and eaves overhang; 9, 13 - nails; 10 - crutch; 11 - cornice overhang; 12 - hook for gutters; 14 - clasps.

Drainpipes are also assembled from pre-prepared links, consisting of a trunk, elbow and funnel. The pipes are hung vertically on the walls and secured with pins with brackets installed every 1.4...1.5 m. The installation of pins with brackets and the installation of drainpipes are carried out simultaneously with the laying of brick and large-block walls. Sheets of non-galvanized steel are coated with drying oil before being laid in place. In the future, such a roof requires systematic painting once every 2...3 years. Galvanized roofs do not need to be painted. The advantages of a steel roof are light weight (approximately 5...10 kg/m2) and the ability to create relatively small slopes (16...24%). When the roof is adjacent to a wall or firewalls, the edge of the row covering must be inserted into a groove against the wall masonry; in this case, the depth of the furrow must be at least 7 cm, and the height - at least 13 cm; the edge of the row covering inserted into the furrow must end with a vertical bend at least 10 cm high (see Fig. 31). In this case, the edge must be strengthened with spikes driven through 250...300 mm into the joints of the masonry or into tarred plugs embedded in the masonry.

When covering gable overhangs, belts, sandriks, turn-off strips are installed at the outer edge of the sheets. The side walls of lanterns and dormer windows should be covered with sheets connected to each other and with row coverings. When covering dormer windows of a semicircular shape, the sheets should be joined with a double seam, and dormer windows with flat slopes should be joined with a ridge. In places where the row covering adjoins the chimney, the width of the vertical bends of the edges of the collar placed under the otter must be at least 150 mm on the ridge side and 100 mm on the bottom and side sides. The gap between the pipe laying and the collar must be filled with putty. Chimney caps must have overhangs of at least 20 mm. The caps are fastened to the pipe using wire and nails driven no closer than into the second seam from the top of the pipe.

Steel roof repair. When repairing a steel roof, two types of patches are used in certain places: along the width of the picture, when the roofing sheets are worn out on the plane, and intermediate ones - when there is damage in or near the ridges. To apply the patch, a sheet is prepared with some allowance for the size of the worn areas. Allowances are used for connections. The damaged area is uncovered, a patch sheet is placed on this area, connecting it to the old sheet using standing and lying folds. The patches are joined by double rebated seams in valleys and wall gutters. On particularly flat slopes, the patches are connected to the old sheets by soldering the seams. Before installing the patches, they must be dry-dried, and after final connection with the old sheets, they must be painted over with weather-resistant paint compounds, while simultaneously painting over the joints to prevent corrosion.

If repairs to steel roofs are carried out in separate patches, then roofing paste, mastic, canvas, and tarpaulin are laid on holes in the roof ranging in size from 30 to 200 mm. If holes up to 30 mm in size are repaired without patches, they are covered with red lead putty, hot bitumen, or roofing mastic. Holes 30...40 mm around should first be cleaned of dirt, rust and coated twice from the roof and attic. Repair of gutters, eaves overhangs, gutters and drainpipes is carried out more often than the roof itself, since these elements are often subject to mechanical stress when ice is carelessly chipped and snow is thrown off; moisture is retained on these parts of the roof longer.

If half of the entire roof has become unusable, replace the entire roof with new sheets of roofing steel. The sheet material of the roof covering is especially susceptible to corrosion at the joints or between the sheathing bars on the attic side when the normal temperature and humidity conditions in it are disrupted. Connecting parts such as nails, bolts, wire are made of non-galvanized steel and at the points of their connection with galvanized sheets of roofing steel, an electric couple is formed, which acts destructively on galvanized steel. In this case, it is recommended to lay one or two layers of roofing material. The same phenomenon is observed when using non-galvanized clamps when installing drainpipes made of galvanized steel sheets. A sheet steel roof becomes unusable due to highly developed corrosion processes if the roof slope becomes insufficient, causing water stagnation. If it is necessary to replace the entire roof or most of it, it is necessary to install sheathing with a changed slope angle. When partially replacing a steel roof, work on preparing and laying roofing panels is carried out in the same way as when installing new steel roofs. Well-preserved old sheets removed from the roof are reused for row covering on the southern slope. They are pre-cleaned, cut around the perimeter, dried and painted. It is not recommended to use them for critical parts of the roof, such as valleys, eaves overhangs, etc. Only new sheet steel should be used for them. All folds, both standing and lying, are thoroughly coated with red lead putty before they are compressed.

In order to save steel, roofs with a high degree of wear can be repaired with rolled materials. Before starting work, defects in the sheathing are eliminated, then gutters, slopes and drainage devices are repaired. The torn sections of the roof and swollen areas are secured with nails, and the roof surface is cleaned of debris and rust with metal brushes. Cloths of rolled materials are laid along and across the standing seams of the roof (Fig. 33).

Rice. 33. :
a - in rows parallel to the ridge; b - in rows perpendicular to the ridge;
1 - pressing ridges of standing seams; 2 - hot bitumen; 3 - roofing felt.

When covering longitudinally along standing seams, triangular cross-section slats of the same height as the seam are nailed on both sides. Then the surface of the roof and bars is covered with hot bitumen, onto which sheets of material are glued; the work is carried out from the cornice to the ridge so that each subsequent row overlaps the previously glued one by 8 cm. When covering with transverse stripes, the standing seams are first bent to the plane of the roof. The work is carried out from the cornice to the ridge, gluing the panels with hot bitumen. Each row is laid so that the next one overlaps it by at least 8 cm.

Repair of drainpipes may involve partial replacement of individual links, elbows, funnels or their complete replacement. When changing individual straight pipe links and elbows, you should first lower the lower part of the pipe barrel by 8...10 cm, having first freed it from the tightening and stirrup. The part being replaced is then removed, a new one is put in, it is secured at the top end in the stirrup, and then the lower part of the pipe is lifted and connected to the new one. When completely replacing the drainpipe, installation begins from the bottom. When painting a repaired roof, it is necessary, if possible, to use drying-free paint compositions, for example, grade A coal varnish, the so-called Kuzbasskraska, which is obtained by grinding coal tar varnish with red lead in ball mills. Before applying Kuzbasslak to a steel roof, the surface is primed with divinyl acetylene paint. Painting steel roofs in hot weather, in the sun, during rain, on surfaces that have not dried out from rain or dew and at temperatures below +3°C is not allowed. Roofs made of non-galvanized sheet steel are painted with oil paints, which necessarily contain red lead or chromium oxide as a pigment. These paints are available ready-to-use or thickly grated. For the latter, the required working viscosity is obtained by diluting with drying oils.

© 2000 - 2002 Oleg V. site™

This is a lightweight fireproof durable roofing. The service life of a galvanized steel roof is 25 - 30 years or more, and a black roof is 18 - 25 years. After 10 years, galvanized steel sheets are usually painted with oil paint, then this operation is repeated every 2 to 3 years.
Black steel roofing requires systematic painting every 2 to 3 years.
The roof slope for a steel roof ranges from 18 to 30°; The steeper the slope, the more materials are required, but also the longer the roof lasts, since water drains from it faster.
Lathing under a steel roof they are made from dry bars, slabs, boards, laid from the slope strictly at the same level with a gradual transition to the ridge.
When using paving stone sheathing, boards must be placed at the transverse joints of the sheets (the joint should be in the middle of the board). In this case, the sheet will not sag and allow water to pass through even with heavy snow or other load on it.
A continuous sheathing of boards or slabs 500 - 700 mm wide is usually installed under the descent or grooves. It is more expensive than paving stones, but it better protects a steel roof from destruction.
Some developers believe that the roof only rusts on top. This is completely false. The underside of the sheets is destructively affected by various vapors penetrating through the attic floor from the kitchen, dining room, and living rooms. That is why steel sheets removed from the roof in the space between the battens are always rusty. A continuous sheathing, absorbing vapors, protects the steel roof from destruction from the underside and extends its service life by 2-3 times, especially if the sheathing is additionally covered with glassine, overlapped by at least 10 cm, or the seams between the boards are sealed with putty made from chalk or fine sawdust. and drying oils. It is best to paint the sealed seams of the sheathing 1 - 2 times with oil paint.
Preparing steel sheets for coating is as follows. Standard dimensions of black or galvanized steel sheets are 710 x 1420 mm. If the roof is without wall grooves, an average of 5.1 kg of roofing steel and 12 - 14 g of nails are required per 1 m2.
Galvanized steel can be used without preparation, but black steel must be dried by adding red lead or ocher to the drying oil. Apply drying oil to the sheets with an ordinary rag, brush, etc. The sheets are laid on a workbench, covered with drying oil on both sides and placed on an edge to dry under a canopy or in a barn. You can place sheet to sheet, but with the obligatory installation of wooden spacers between them.
A thin layer of lubricant is applied to the surface of the roofing sheets, protecting them from rusting during transportation and storage. Before drying, it is recommended to remove this grease with a rag soaked in gasoline, and then wipe the sheets with a dry cloth. If you remove the grease with a rag not soaked in gasoline, a thin film will remain on the sheets, preventing good adhesion of the paint to the steel surface.
To prevent the underside of the sheet laid on the sheathing from rusting, after drying and preparing the sheets, it is recommended to paint it with oil paint once (preferably twice) and dry it well.
If the continuous sheathing is covered with glassine, then the sheets (made of black steel and galvanized) are not drying oil, but are coated with oil-resin varnish No. 6, to which dry red lead is added.
The edges of the coated sheets of roofing steel are bent for a seam connection. Such a sheet is called a picture. It is used for ordinary coating. Pictures can consist of two sheets or more.
To lay a steel roof, the following basic tools are required: two roofing hammers - a large (handbrake) and a small (undercutter), a mallet (wooden hammer) and hand-held roofing shears. It is advisable to have large scissors, usually attached to a piece of wide thick board. In addition to the main tool, you also need a chisel, a punch, a square steel block (mandrel) 1700 mm long, a piece of angle steel of the same length, a workbench made of thick boards at least 2 m long and 1 m wide, laid on trestles. Tools for working with roofing steel are shown in Figure 173. Steel roofing can be installed in a variety of ways. The easiest way to cover it is to nail sheets of steel to the sheathing. You can also nail the bars to the sheathing, bend the edges of the sheets, lay the latter between the bars, bend the edges to the bars and nail them.

But most often, sheets of roofing steel are connected to each other with seam seams, which can be lying (running along the length of the slope) or standing (running along the height of the slope). There are single - simpler and less reliable seams - and double - more difficult to manufacture, but also more durable. With this method, the sheet is fastened to the sheathing not with nails, but with the help of clamps - strips of roofing steel 150 - 180 mm long and 30 - 50 mm wide, one end of which is nailed to the sheathing, the other is bent over the standing seam.
Row coating(Fig. 174) do this. Sheets of roofing steel are connected to each other using lying and standing seams. Lying folds are made according to the width of the sheet, and standing folds are made along its length. The prepared sheets are placed in recumbent folds either along the length of the slope or parallel to the ridge. These folds must be made so that they do not retain water flowing down the roof. Standing seams, which give the roof rigidity, are located along the height of the slope, i.e. from the overhang to the ridge.

Pictures can be placed one at a time, but it is more convenient to work with blanks consisting of two or more sheets (Fig. 175).
When preparing a steel roof, on the side of the workbench to which the steel angle is nailed, place the sheet with its wide side, so that its edge hangs down by 10 mm. By striking the corners of the sheet with a mallet, they make so-called beacon bends that prevent the sheet from moving. Then, at the risk, they bend the entire edge, turn the sheet over so that the folded edge is on top, and bend it to the sheet with blows of a mallet until a gap of 5 mm is formed. The second edge of the sheet is folded in the same way, but in the opposite direction to the first.
Edges for standing folds are folded along the long side of the sheet only after the lying folds are folded. The edges are bent on both sides at right angles and in one direction. On the left side they are bent to a height of 20 - 25 mm, and on the right - by 40 - 50 mm, ensuring that they do not reach the recumbent folds by 100 mm. This prevents the folding of folded folded folds from collapsing and ensures free engagement of individual paintings or blanks made from them (Fig. 175a).
When laying individual paintings or blanks, the lying folds should be positioned so that the fold of the second painting is on top.
Having connected the folds, they are compacted (knocked down or flattened), resulting in the formation of a lock (Fig. 175,b). Preparation of sheets for the eaves overhang is shown in Figure 175, b.
With row covering, the workpieces are lifted onto the roof and laid in rows from the ridge to the overhang. Then the overhang pictures are connected with a lock to the first pictures of the row cover. When connecting into a lock, it is advisable to pre-coat the folds with putty. Seams can be sealed on the sheathing, but it is better when a steel strip 900 - 1000 mm long, 50 - 60 mm wide, 4 - 5 mm thick is placed under them. Having assembled a strip from the paintings (blanks) from the ridge to the overhang and compacting the folds, the previously bent ridges of the standing seams are raised at the joints of the paintings. Then the strip is laid in place, so that it hangs over the cornice and sheathing along the slope by 70 - 100 mm. After this, take an oiled or painted clamp, bend a tab 20-30 mm long at one end at a right angle, place the flat side of the clamp against the standing seam, and the clamp against the sheathing and fasten it with a roofing nail, driving it on top of the tab. The clamps are placed one from the other at a distance of 500 - 700 mm (Fig. 176). The clamp foot is subsequently covered with a sheet of roofing (Fig. 176,a). This type of fastening is quite simple, but has the disadvantage that both the nails and the roofing steel rust. In addition, if the sheathing is made of insufficiently dry material, then when it dries out, the nails can easily be removed and the roof can rise (especially in windy weather). In this case, the nails need to be hammered into the sheathing at a certain angle, and the head should be painted over with thick oil paint, covered with putty, or covered with a piece of cardboard painted on both sides. It is better when the clamp is attached to the sheathing not from the top, but from the side, and the remaining end is rotated 90° around its axis. In this case, the plane of the clamp falls directly into the seam (Fig. 176.6).

The second strip is placed next to the first so that its edge with the small edge bent is adjacent to the high edge of the first strip. It is desirable that the lying folds are not at the same level (one against the other), but are shifted by 15 mm. This provides easier and more convenient bending of standing seams (ridges).
When the lying folds coincide, it is more difficult to bend the standing folds; In addition, thick spots are formed, which sometimes leads to tearing of the edges.
The correctly laid second strip is tightly attached to the first. Then, at the places where the clamp is installed, you should bend the high edges onto the low ones to a length of 100 - 150 mm. When fastening the strips, they must be pressed as tightly as possible to the sheathing so that the sheets do not rise and rattle in the wind.
Near the second strip of the roof, clamps are nailed, located in a checkerboard pattern in relation to the previous ones, a third strip is laid and also secured.
Clamps are also attached to the third strip, the fourth strip is attached to it, secured, etc.
The edges of the standing seams are folded after laying each strip, several or all strips. The latter method is preferable, since the entire sheathing is closed at once.
They begin to close the folds from the ridge to the overhang, standing facing the ridge (this allows you to see the folded fold). The work is carried out in the sequence shown in Figure 177.
First of all, the high edge is folded onto the low one. To do this, on the side of the small edge, at the same level with it, place a large hammer flat with your left hand. With a smaller hammer in the right hand, the high edge is bent at a right angle above the low one. Having thus bent the ridge to a length of 1 m, it is finally bent and compacted. To do this, you need to return to the beginning of the formed ridge, place the side of the large hammer on the side of the high edge, and strike with the small hammer on the high edge, completely bending it onto the small edge and compacting it. In this sequence, the entire standing seam is bent. Instead of a large hammer, a bar is usually used - a clapper (Fig. 178), which you can easily make yourself.

When folding a large edge, you must ensure that the standing folds are straight, of the same height and well compacted (for this, two or three blows are usually applied to the same place).
The ridge is completed after the entire roof has been laid. First of all, a standing seam is arranged. To do this, the excess roofing above the ridge is cut off with hand scissors, but so that a small edge can be folded on one side of the slope and a large one on the other. The fold is done as usual. The standing folds (ridges) of the slopes are first bent to the formwork at a distance of 100 mm from the ridge, i.e. they are made recumbent. This allows you to bend the standing seams on the ridge (Fig. 179).
Double folds- the most reliable. There are recumbent and standing double folds.
The first of them is done as follows. First of all, the edges of the sheets are folded twice. Then the sheets are connected by pushing the curved edges of one sheet into the edges of the other, and compact them (Fig. 180). Such folds will never come apart; if they are coated with putty, then they do not allow water to pass through at all.

Standing double seams (Fig. 181) do this. On one side of the first sheet, a low edge (33 mm high) is bent, and on the other, a high edge (45 mm). The high edge is folded over the low edge and sealed. The resulting standing seam (ridge) is folded again, bringing its total height to 26 mm. The bent ridge is compacted again.
The holes in the chimneys are sealed with collars made of galvanized or black roofing steel (see Fig. 166).

When covering the roof with steel sheets (as well as repairing and painting it), it is necessary to wear soft shoes - felted or with soft rubber soles. Such shoes do not slip on the roof and do not harm it. Shoes with leather soles not only slide on the sheets, but also scratch the paint on them, which accelerates the rusting of the metal in such places. While working, you should tie yourself with a strong rope to strong parts of the roof (mainly the rafters). For convenience, it is recommended to use portable stepladders - ladders. At one end of such a stepladder, hooks are attached, which hook it to the sheathing.
Maintenance, repair and painting of steel roofing. Steel roofing and oil paint applied to it expand differently when heated by the sun. The metal expands more strongly, so after some time it tears off the outdated paint that has lost its elasticity. Moisture gets into the cracks formed in the paint and the steel begins to rust. Such places should be immediately cleaned with a soft steel brush, dust removed and painted 1-2 times with oil paint.
Dust and dirt that retain moisture should be systematically removed from the roof with a soft broom.
Repairing the roof in this order. Small rusty (thin) places on the roof can be sealed with patches made of burlap or some dense fabric. Rusted places are identified as follows. On a sunny day, two people inspect a roof that has been cleared of dirt and dust. One of them walks around the attic with a stick, and the second with chalk in his hand walks along the roof. The one in the attic, having found a rusty place, knocks on it with a stick, and the one on the roof outlines it with chalk. All marked areas are cleaned with a steel brush, dust is removed and painted over with paint, which dries for 2 - 3 days. Patches of the required size are cut from burlap or thick fabric, thickly diluted paint is prepared, and the patches are placed in it for 1 - 2 hours. Then the excess paint is squeezed out, the patches are placed on the area to be repaired, carefully smoothed (especially the edges) and allowed to dry. Then they are painted.
Patches can be applied in other ways. The area to be repaired is painted over with thickly diluted paint, a dry patch is placed on it, carefully smoothed with a brush or spatula and left to dry. However, the first option provides a better repair.
Small holes on the ridges can be covered with regular putty or also sealed with a patch.
Painting an old roof in this order. Before painting, the roof is cleaned of adhering dust and dirt, swept with a soft broom: fresh paint applied to an uncleaned roof does not adhere well to the previously applied one.
It is recommended to paint the roof slope in one layer after a year, in two layers after 2 years. The fact is that on slopes moisture lingers longer and the paint deteriorates faster. Service life of oil paints on natural drying oil: ocher and mummy - 3 years, red lead - 5 years, verdigris - 10 years.
After the glued patches have dried thoroughly, it is recommended to sweep the roof again with a soft broom or hair brush. The entire roof (including patches) is painted with the prepared paint. The paint should be applied in as thin layers as possible, rubbing it in thoroughly. Typically the paint is applied in two or three layers. First, the slope is painted, and then the entire roof - from the ridge to the slopes. While working, hold the brush so that the hair is perpendicular to the surface. You need to press the brush equally, and periodically rotate it in your hands (so that the hair is washed evenly).
The roof can be painted with various paints, but red lead is the most widely used.
The consumption of paints depending on their type is given in Table 24.

Table 24

Requirement of materials for painting 10 m2 of roofing, g

The paint is prepared like this. Drying oil is added to the thickly grated mass, and everything is mixed well until smooth (the clots are thoroughly ground). Then it is recommended to strain the paint on a fine sieve. Whitewash is pre-mixed with drying oil until completely homogeneous. If white is added to liquid paint of a different color, the mixture must be thoroughly mixed until the color is exactly the same.
To prevent the pigment from settling on the bottom of the dish while working, the paint should be stirred periodically.

I, Varzin Leonid Nikolaevich, began my activity as a tinsmith on steel and copper roofs in 1987.
In 1994, our roof repair and installation company was founded. One of the significant achievements of our organization is the receipt in 2004 of an international patent for the invention of roofing panels (No. 2275479)
Over 22 years of work, we have selected a staff of first-class roofers who know their job. And our engineers will help you make the roof in accordance with your financial capabilities. The rise in roofing costs does not affect the quality of work. But it affects long-term operation.
Over the years, we have repaired and installed many roofs. And our customers always receive high-quality and reliable roofing over their heads.

We are waiting for your proposals for the work.

CEO L.N.Varzin

Any material, no matter how high-quality and durable it is, over time gradually succumbs to the influence of external factors and loses its original functional characteristics. Metal products are no exception, which may be the reason for carrying out such a service as metal roof repair. In Moscow, this service is very relevant, since the capital and its surrounding regions are densely dotted with private houses and cottages that may need professional repair services.

The Delema company specializes in providing services for working with various types of roofing systems and is always ready to provide professional assistance. The prices for metal roof repairs will pleasantly surprise you and will allow you to order repair work for your roof today.

As a rule, repairs of metal roofing systems are divided into two types: major and local (spot). The first type involves the complete replacement of old roofing elements, their dismantling and installation of a new sheet. The second involves carrying out work in certain areas whose condition is the most deteriorated. Major repairs of metal roofing in Moscow are carried out, as a rule, during the reconstruction of the building, as well as during the conversion of the attic.

The company's experienced employees will definitely advise you on all your questions and provide you with all the necessary and useful information.
Our contacts

Phones:
8 (495) 505 – 00 – 40;
8 (495) 507 – 10 – 08.

Cost of metal roof repairs

Price, rub.)

340 (material)

380 (material)

420 (material)

160 (with material)

600(with material)

380 (material)

760 (material)

Comprehensive roof repair from 1100 RUR/m2! Warranty up to 5 years!
Departure, measurement and consultation on repairs - free of charge!

Carrying out this type of repair work is a very labor-intensive process that requires a high degree of training and practical experience from the roof repair worker. In order for your roofing system to be repaired to the highest possible quality, in this case you need to contact the Delema company, where you will be provided with the highest level of service. The prices for metal roof repairs in our company will pleasantly surprise our clients with their affordability, and our highly qualified specialists will complete even the most complex work in the shortest possible time.

The involvement of highly competent specialists and the use of modern equipment allows us to quickly carry out all work, while the prices for metal roof repairs at Delema are distinguished by their affordability.

The average price for working with the material is 750 rubles per m2. The price may decrease due to large volumes of roofing, and may also increase due to roof connections.

Our metal roof repair work

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On the construction market today you can find many different materials that differ in price. It is simply impossible to definitively answer the question of which roofing material is the best, since in certain conditions one must proceed from certain advantages and disadvantages. Many homeowners give their preference to bitumen materials or ceramic roofing, but steel is in no way inferior to them, and sometimes is even a much better solution.

Steel roofing sheets amaze with their diversity. It can take the form of smooth sheets that are joined by seams, but it is also found in the form of tiles. To create such a material, galvanized steel is used, additionally coated with a layer of polymer. Thanks to this, roofing sheet steel copes well with corrosion and external factors.

Such sheets of metal are called paintings. A roofing steel thickness of 0.5 mm or more is sufficient to provide high quality home protection. For roofs with a large surface area, rolled steel is used, which speeds up the installation process. For a small country house it is much more convenient to purchase ready-made, cut sheets.

Fastening is carried out with clamps. All connections have the form of folds, that is, curved seams. They can be single or double, standing comb or flat lying. The specific choice depends on the junction of the paintings and the need for waterproofing. It is recommended to additionally treat the folds with silicone sealant.

Steel roofing - main types

Today, such roofing can be made from various materials:

Tools and materials for work

Steel roofing is installed after certain preparatory procedures have been completed. Necessary:

• check the angles of the slopes, since the roof should have a slope of no more than 30 degrees and no less than 16;
• check the strength of the sheathing, the pitch of the beams and the reliability of the fastenings. This procedure is especially important, since poor-quality sheathing can lead to sagging of the roof;
• carefully check all steel sheets for dents, cracks, bubbles and other damage.

Then begins the preparation of the tools that will be needed for roofing work:

• roofing nails 4*50 mm with a special head for fastening to the sheathing;
• nails 4x100 mm for fixing hooks and crutches;
• special hooks designed for attaching gutters. They are usually made from steel scraps 2 cm wide and 42 cm long;
• crutches for eaves overhangs. Used for fixing overhangs (more details: " ");
• picture clamps;
• machine for folding seams (also exists). To lay the roof of a small house, you can get by with a manual machine.

Stages of installation work

Work begins with the installation of crutches along the entire cornice. The distance from the edge is 150 cm, the laying step is 70 cm. All crutches are nailed to the sheathing. They are necessary to support the paintings. To prevent the crutches from moving, they are first placed along the edges of the cornice. After this, a cord is stretched between them, along which the individual elements are aligned.

Next they move on to the installation of paintings. This can be done using a variety of tools, but the best way is to use a folding machine. Types of folds are distinguished depending on the location of installation: lying folds are made along the short side, standing folds are made along the long side. This allows for good drainage of water from the roof surface.

Roofing sheet steel GOST provides for fastening with seams, both single and double. In areas where water accumulates the most, only double connections are used.

The finished sheets are attached to the base using clamps, which are nailed with one end to the beam and the other into the rebate. All clamps are attached to the ends of each sheet. In this case, each sheet is shifted by 5-6 cm so as to spread the lying folds to the sides. The ridge folds also shift in a similar manner.

After installation, all excess elements are cut off with metal scissors. The resulting sections are treated with a primer. To make them more airtight, the folds are treated with silicone sealant.

Installation of a steel roof must be accompanied by the following features:

Repair work: what are the specifics?

Repair work on such a roof has a number of features. The fact is that disassembling a separate section of the roof is very problematic; the procedure itself is labor-intensive and time-consuming. But there is an alternative approach that allows you to quickly carry out repairs at a very high level.

Small damage up to 5 mm in size is sealed with sealant (acrylic or silicone) or special red lead grease. Such compositions are applied using a spatula in a layer up to 8 mm thick. In addition, the use of bitumen-based adhesive tape shows good results. After repair, the work site is sanded and painted with special paints.

In most cases, such roofs do not require frequent repairs. Damage is often caused by extreme loads or mechanical stress. For example, accumulation of snow, higher than the calculated amount or a fall of a tree branch. Also, in case of careless behavior with the material and damage to the protective polymer layer, the metal begins to corrode, which leads to rusting and the appearance of holes in the roof. Therefore, it is recommended to handle the material very carefully during installation. In addition, regular inspections should be performed to check for rust spots and accumulations of snow or fallen leaves.

Installation of a metal roof: installation and installation ").