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Installation and installation of water supply. Design and installation of water supply and sewerage systems in the house

Our topic today is the installation of a water supply system for a country house. We have to figure out how to organize an uninterrupted supply of water, and what materials to distribute it through plumbing fixtures. For the convenience of the reader, the article will be structured in the form of answers to the most frequently asked questions.

Water sources

  1. How to organize water supply in the absence of a main water supply?

Here is a list of all possible options:

  • Supplying water from a well or well “to the sand”;
  • Water supply from an artesian well;

Reference: artesian is an aquifer that is trapped between two impermeable layers. Artesian water differs from surface water in its high quality and does not require mandatory purification.

  • Many gardening partnerships and cooperatives practice supplying water on a schedule through a surface summer water supply. In regions with a warm climate, such water pipelines can be operated around the clock. In this case, the task comes down to creating a water reserve for its uninterrupted supply;
  • Finally, water can be imported. And in this case, you will need a reserve capacity to store it.

Cold water supply schemes

Now let's get acquainted with autonomous water supply schemes and the equipment required for their implementation. They are quite predictably determined by the water source.

The video in this article will help you learn more about how and how water supply installation is carried out in private homes.

Well

  1. What should be the installation scheme for water supply at home when supplying water from a well or shallow well?

When the depth of the water surface is no more than 8 meters, to supply it to the house you need:


Image Description
Pumping station. This is the name of a set of a surface centrifugal pump, a diaphragm accumulator and an automatic relay with a pressure sensor installed on a common frame. The hydraulic accumulator smoothes out pressure surges and allows the pump to idle with low water consumption, and the relay is responsible for turning the pump on and off when threshold pressure values ​​are reached.
Suction pipe. This should be a rigid pipe (for example, polyethylene) with a diameter equal to the diameter of the pump suction pipe (for younger models with a capacity of up to 100 liters per minute - 25 millimeters).
Check valve. It is placed on the suction pipe and prevents water from draining from the water supply system and the hydraulic accumulator when the pump is turned off.
Mechanical cleaning filter. It is mounted in front of the check valve and prevents sand and soil particles from entering the pump and further into the water supply.
Water supply input. It is laid in the ground below the freezing level. Most often, HDPE pressure pipes (made of low-density polyethylene) are used to install the inlet: due to their elasticity, they tolerate soil movements and even freezing in the water supply.

Hint: the pumping station can be located in an insulated house above a well, in a well caisson, or, at a short distance from the water source, directly in the house.

Well

  1. How to install water supply in a country house if an artesian well is used as a water source?

In this case, a submersible pump will be required to lift the water. If, in the case of a pumping station, the suction depth is limited by atmospheric pressure (it is this that displaces water into the suction pipe when a vacuum is created in it), then the pressure at the outlet of a submersible pump is determined only by its characteristics. Multistage borehole pumps are capable of lifting water to a height of tens and even hundreds of meters.

In addition to the pump, to organize the water supply you will need:

  • The already familiar check valve. It is mounted on the outlet pipe of the pump, and performs the same function as in the case of a pumping station - it prevents water from draining after the pump is turned off;
  • A hydraulic accumulator that creates a water supply of several tens of liters. The larger the capacity of the membrane tank, the less often the pump turns on. The tank is connected to any point of the water supply;
  • Pressure switch responsible for supplying and turning off power to the pump.

Capacity

  1. How to organize automatic filling of the reserve tank when water is supplied according to a schedule?

To do this, just connect the container to the summer water supply and install a float valve on its filler pipe.

  1. How to ensure the supply of water from the container to the water supply?

The easiest way is to install a reserve tank in the attic of your home.

This water supply scheme is energy-independent, reliable, but has a number of rather unpleasant features:

  • The attic must be heated, otherwise during the first frosts of the night the water in the tank will freeze;

However: as an option, the container can be insulated and equipped with cable heating.

  • The water pressure in the water supply will be equal to the height of the tank above the water collection point. Meanwhile, with a pressure of less than three meters, household appliances connected to the water supply system (instantaneous water heaters, washing machines, etc.) simply will not turn on;
  • The water supply will be limited by the strength of the floor beams. Placing a tank with a volume of several cubic meters on wooden beams is a very dubious idea.
  1. Is there a water supply scheme from a container that is free of the listed disadvantages?

Of course. The container can be moved to the ground floor or basement: these rooms usually maintain positive temperatures all year round, and the floor has an almost unlimited load-bearing capacity. Of course, a different installation scheme is used: the water supply to the house is provided by a pumping station.

DHW

  1. What devices can be used to heat water?

Image Description
A double-circuit gas boiler or gas water heater is attractive due to the low cost of the thermal energy it produces: its kilowatt hour costs only 50-70 kopecks. The disadvantage of the solution is the relatively low accuracy of water temperature regulation in younger models. In addition, main gas is not available everywhere.
A flow-through electric heater is compact and more than inexpensive, but it creates a significant load on the wiring: even younger models consume at least 3.5 kW.
An electric boiler provides stable hot water temperature with moderate power consumption (from 1 to 3 kW). Its main disadvantage is heat loss through the tank insulation: even in the absence of water consumption, 2-3 kilowatt-hours of electricity per day are spent just to maintain its stable temperature.
An indirect heating boiler is the most universal solution. It can be used with any heating boiler. Its heat exchanger is connected in parallel to the heating circuit.
Solar collectors are in demand primarily in warm and sunny regions of the country. In a day, a collector with an area of ​​2 square meters can generate up to 10 kWh of absolutely free heat.

Water distribution

  1. What water distribution schemes are used in cottages?

Tee (aka sequential), radial (or collector) and combined. The first involves connecting water collection points to a common supply line for all devices through tees, the second - its own supply line from a common collector to each device, the third is a combination of the first two (for example, faucets are connected using a radial circuit, and the drain tank and washing machine are connected through tees).

  1. Which wiring is more practical - collector or serial?

Both solutions have advantages and disadvantages:

  • Installation of water supply in a house with tee wiring will cost much less than with a collector one, since the total length of the connections will be several times shorter;
  • Tee wiring can be done openly: a pair of pipes on the bathroom wall is unlikely to spoil its interior. But it is customary to make the collector wiring hidden: a good dozen pipes will be a much more dubious decoration of the walls;

Practical consequence: installation of a water supply system for a private house using a tee scheme can be performed at any stage of its renovation or after finishing. Manifold wiring is carried out before finishing the walls or pouring the screed.

  • At the same time, in a collector water supply system there is no pressure drop on all devices when water flows through one of them. Simply put, if you open the cold water tap in the kitchen all the way, you won’t hear the scream of your scalded wife coming from the bathroom.

Materials

  1. What materials can be used to install a water supply system at home with your own hands?

First, let's remember what the operational parameters of the water supply system will be:

  • Pressure: not higher than 4.5 kgf/cm2;
  • Temperature: +5 - +75 degrees;
  • Water hammer: excluded due to the presence of a membrane tank in the system (in the case of a gravity water supply, excluded due to its design).

From a practical point of view, this means that pipes and fittings do not need a large margin of strength and heat resistance. If so, we can use very affordable polymer pipes. Which ones exactly?

Polypropylene

  • Service life: at least 50 years for cold water supply and 25 years for hot water supply.
  • Working pressure: from 10 to 25 kgf/cm2. It depends on the SDR of the pipe (the ratio of its diameter to the wall thickness) and the presence or absence of reinforcement.
  • Heat resistance: 90°C.
  • Price per linear meter: from 20 rubles with a diameter of 20 mm.
  • Connection: pipes are welded with fittings after reflowing on a soldering iron nozzle. Installation of one connection takes 30-60 seconds. All the tools necessary for the job (a soldering iron with a set of attachments and a pipe cutter) cost about 2,000 rubles.

Heat-resistant polyethylene

PE-RT differs from conventional polyethylene in its increased heat resistance, achieved by introducing copolymers into its composition.

  • Heat resistance: 90-110°C.
  • Price per linear meter: from 60 rubles with a diameter of 20 mm.
  • Connection: compression fittings (two adjustable wrenches are needed to assemble the connection) or sleeve welding with a soldering iron we are already familiar with.

Metal-plastic

Metal-plastic pipes appeared on the Russian market earlier than other polymer materials, and immediately became popular due to their ease and speed of installation. The pipe is an aluminum core glued between two shells of PE-RT or PE-X polyethylene (cross-linked, with cross-links between the polymer molecules).

  • Service life: at least 50 years.
  • Working pressure: up to 16 kgf/cm2.
  • Heat resistance: 90°C.
  • Connection: compression fittings with mandatory calibration and internal chamfering. The instructions are related to the peculiarity of the fittings: the tightness of the connection with the pipe is ensured by rubber O-rings. An uncalibrated pipe without a chamfer pulls the rings out of the grooves, and the connection leaks after a short time.

Please note: we deliberately ignore a number of materials that require expensive tools to install connections. Buying it for a one-time installation of a water supply system simply will not pay off. For example, installing a water supply for a country house using PE-X pipes and fittings using molecular memory of the material requires purchasing a set of tools costing about 10,000 rubles.

Conclusion

We sincerely hope that this material will be useful to the reader. Good luck!

moikolodets.ru

Even in the most remote village houses, not to mention modern country cottages, you can significantly increase the level of comfort by simply installing water supply in a private house. We won’t assure you that this is such a simple matter, especially if the house has already been built a long time ago, and not just at the planning stage, but still, many of the plumbing installation works can be done independently, without the help of specialists. In this article, we will try to tell you how to install water supply in a private house, while we will only touch on work inside the house without taking into account the arrangement of the water supply source.

  • Selection of pipe material
  • Plumbing in a private house: video review
  • Do not neglect such an important point as drawing up a water supply diagram.
    come up with excuses for yourself: I just need to get it into the kitchen and the bathroom. Immediately, as soon as you decide to install a water supply system in a private house, draw a diagram of its installation throughout the house, taking into account all the elements: water consumers, collectors, boiler, filters and pump. Mark the location of all elements and the route for laying pipes around the house. It is advisable to mark the distances on the diagram. This will greatly facilitate the task of calculating the number of pipes for the water supply.

    The pipe laying scheme can be done in two ways:

    1. Serial connection of consumers.
    2. Collector connection.

    Serial connection Suitable only for a small country house with a small number of water consumers, where 1 - 2 people live. For full-fledged country houses and cottages with permanent residence, such a system is not suitable. It consists of the following: water flows through the main pipeline throughout the house; a tee with a outlet in its direction is installed near each water consumer. It turns out that if you use several consumers at the same time, the most remote one will have very low pressure, unable to satisfy the needs.

    Collector connection consists in diverting individual pipes from a common collector to each consumer separately. This ensures almost the same pressure at every point in the house. Of course, there will still be some pressure losses associated with the distance from the pumping station, but these losses are much less than with a series connection.

    The choice of a collector distribution system significantly increases the cost of plumbing in a private home. Mainly due to more pipes. But it's worth it. Next, we will consider the collector system.

    Any water supply diagram for a private house consists of the following elements:

    1. Source of water intake (well, well).
    2. Pumping station. A pipe is laid in the ground from the water source and connected to the pump. Before connecting it to the pump, there must be a check valve so that the water does not return back.
    3. A hydraulic accumulator into which water is pumped.
    4. After the hydraulic accumulator on the outlet pipe, it makes sense to install a tee with a shut-off valve. One pipe will be used for household needs, and the other for technical needs (vegetable garden, car wash, etc.).
    5. A pipe with water for household needs is connected to a water purification and water treatment system, since water from an underground source may contain harmful impurities.
    6. After the filtering systems, a tee is installed to separate cold water and future hot water.
    7. The cold water pipe is connected to the cold water manifold. Shut-off valves are installed here for each line that will go to its consumer.
    8. The hot water pipe is connected to the water heater.
    9. The hot water pipe from the water heater is connected to a hot water manifold, which sends pipes throughout the house.

    There may be other additional elements in the plumbing system, but the typical diagram and connection sequence remain unchanged.

    In the work associated with laying water pipes in a private house, the most dusty and difficult part is making holes in the walls or floor for the pipeline. Otherwise, cutting and connecting pipes, connecting to consumers, connecting to a collector, installing a pumping station and connecting filter systems, although it will take a lot of time, will not require much physical effort. So doing the plumbing of a private house with your own hands is a completely feasible task even for a beginner. The main thing is that the desire is unshakable, then everything can be done.

    Selection of pipe material

    The first step is to decide what pipe material we will use.

    • Copper pipes the best and most expensive. They are not susceptible to corrosion, are not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, are indifferent to microorganisms, do not notice increased pressure, do not react to changes in ambient temperatures, are not afraid of harmful impurities in water, and in addition, they instantly give off heat. In general, it’s a dream, not pipes. One drawback is the price.

    • Metal-plastic pipes They are aluminum pipes protected on both sides (inside and outside) by a layer of polyethylene. The smooth surface of polyethylene does not allow deposits to accumulate and prevents the development of rust. The outer layer protects against the influence of ultraviolet radiation and condensation. Significant disadvantages of such pipes are: fear of high temperatures above 95 ° C (they become deformed), sensitive to water freezing, pipes with fittings cannot be bent.

    • Steel pipes- the good old option. They are durable, strong, but at the same time afraid of rust. It is also important that for installation it is necessary to either cut a thread for a connection on each pipe element, or weld the pipes, which is a very labor-intensive process.

    • Polypropylene pipes Recently they have become increasingly popular when installing plumbing in a private home. This is due to the fact that they have excellent performance characteristics, do not oxidize, are durable (up to 50 years), relatively easy to install, and the connections do not require frequent checking, which allows you to hide the pipes under the plaster. Among the shortcomings, only one can be highlighted - the need for a special electric welding machine to connect pipes to each other.

    Important! If your choice is polypropylene pipes, please note: for hot water supply, reinforced pipes (with fiberglass, aluminum or other material) are required.

    Considering the number of pipes required to lay a collector system, the price for water supply in a private house largely depends on the material of these pipes. So, when choosing, focus on the price/quality ratio and do not forget about your budget.

    Selecting the diameter of internal water pipes

    The correct diameter is no less important than the pipe material. This is due to the fact that a pipe diameter that is too small can lead to turbulence of the flow, which means that the water in the pipes will move noisily, leaving a lot of lime deposits on the walls. The maximum speed of water movement in the pipeline is 2 m/s, based on this, the diameter of the pipes must be selected.

    The diameter of the pipes also depends from pipeline length:

    • For a pipeline less than 30 m long, pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are suitable.
    • For a pipeline longer than 30 m, it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 32 mm.
    • For a short pipeline less than 10 m long, pipes with a diameter of 20 mm can be used.

    The correct installation of water supply in a private house largely depends on the correctly selected diameter of the collector pipe, so that it ensures the full simultaneous use of several consumers at once. To determine it, you need to perform simple calculations: for example, one tap with water flows 5 - 6 l/min, we calculate how many and which consumers we can have turned on simultaneously throughout the house.

    • A pipe with a diameter of 25 mm (1 inch) passes through itself 30 l/min;
    • 32 mm (1.25 inch) pipe flows 50 l/min;
    • pipe 38 mm (1.5 inches) - flows 75 l/min.

    If the family is large, many people live in the house at the same time, and there are few water points, quite often there will be situations when they will use the kitchen sink, the bathroom, the toilet, and the washing machine at the same time. The consumption of these devices per minute must be summed up - the diameter of the collector pipe will depend on this.

    If the family is small and there are many water consumers around the house, then the calculation is made differently. It is necessary to calculate water consumption at water collection points and reduce it by 25 - 40%. This will be the approximate cost of the family.

    Let's look at connecting pipes to each other using polypropylene pipes as an example.

    For cold water we use pipes with a diameter of 25 mm, wall thickness 2.8 mm.

    For hot water we use reinforced pipes with a diameter of 25 mm, wall thickness 3.2 mm.

    Technology for welding polypropylene pipes:

    1. We cut the pipes into pieces of the required size using special scissors. Be sure to keep the blade strictly perpendicular.
    2. We mark the welding depth on the pipes - in our case 16 mm.
    3. We clean the welding site from dust and dirt using damp alcohol wipes.

    1. We install nozzles of the required diameter on a special welding machine.
    2. Turn on welding and set the temperature to 260 °C. When it warms up, the lights will go out.

    1. We slide the parts of the pipes that we want to weld onto the welding attachments to a depth up to the drawn mark. At the same time, we do not rotate the pipes or make any twisting movements.
    2. As soon as the pipes are placed on the nozzles and begin to move along the nozzles, we count down 7 seconds. After this, remove the attachments; a second person must hold the welding machine.
    3. We connect the pipes to each other without making rotational movements - quickly and smoothly. Hold it for a few seconds.

    The result should be a smooth and beautiful perpendicular connection. If you are not happy with the result, cut off the section with the connection and repeat the procedure from the very beginning.

    Before using newly welded pipes, you need to let them cool slightly.

    Plumbing in a private house

    After the pipes are connected to each other, you can begin laying pipes inside the house. We recommend starting with the water consumer.

    First, we connect the pipe to the consumer using an adapter for a threaded connection, install a ball valve between the adapter and the faucet hose, which is necessary to shut off the water if repairs are suddenly needed, then we lay it towards the collector. There are a few simple rules that must be followed:

    • It is advisable that pipes do not pass through building structures (walls and partitions). But if this is not possible, when laying a pipe in the wall, it must be enclosed in a special glass.
    • So that pipes can be easily repaired, it makes sense to place them at a distance of 20 - 25 mm from the wall.
    • When installing drain taps, make a slight slope towards the tap.
    • When going around the outer corner, the pipe is located at a distance of 15 mm, and the inner corner - 30 - 40 mm.
    • The pipes are secured to the walls with special clips. Be sure to secure it in each corner joint; on the straight section we place clips at a distance of 1.5 - 2 m.
    • To connect polypropylene pipes at an angle, including 90°, special HDPE fittings and tees with identical and transitional diameters are used.
    • The fewer turns and corners there are in the line, the less pressure is lost.

    When connecting a pipe to a collector, a shut-off valve must be installed to allow the consumer to be disconnected from the system, including for the purpose of repair.

    Connecting the pumping station to the internal water supply

    Connecting a private house to the water supply is carried out through a pumping station, which pumps water from a source: a well or a well.

    The pumping station is best located in a house, basement, basement or heated technical room. This will protect it from freezing and make it possible to use the water supply even in severe frost.

    A pipe runs from the water intake source to the pumping station, which ends in a brass fitting with an adapter for a diameter of 32 mm.

    We connect a tee with a drain valve to this fitting in order to be able to turn off the water supply to repair the water supply. Then we connect a check valve so that the water does not return back. If you need to rotate the pipe to direct it towards the station, then use a 90° angle.

    • We connect the ball valve to turn off/on the water supply.
    • Next is a coarse mesh filter.
    • The finished pumping station must have a pressure switch and a damper tank. But if your pump is located in a water intake (well, well), and the rest of the equipment is in the house, then we connect a pressure switch on top of the pipe, and a damper tank or hydraulic accumulator on the bottom.
    • A sensor that protects the pump from dry running.
    • We connect a fine filter to the remaining connection.
    • Next comes the transition to a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm.

    Before further work, check that the connection is working properly: start the pump to see whether it will pump or not. If not, it means that something is connected incorrectly somewhere or the accumulator is over-inflated.

    What is a hydraulic accumulator and why is it needed?

    The hydraulic accumulator is a sealed tank divided into two sections. One contains water, the other contains air under pressure. This unit is necessary in order to ensure stable pressure in the water supply system and turn the pump on and off when needed.

    For example, the accumulator is completely filled with water, the pressure in the system is 3 bar. When someone opens a tap in the house and uses water, it leaves the accumulator, the pressure drops, the relay is activated and the pump starts. Water is pumped again, the pressure becomes 3 bar.

    The tank volume varies: from 25 liters to 500 liters, selected depending on the needs of the family.

    Installing a water supply system in a private house does not necessarily require the presence of a hydraulic accumulator. You can use a large storage tank and install it on the highest floor of the house. Water will flow to consumers under pressure created by its weight. But such a system is not enough for the washing machine to work.

    Water from the source must be tested in a laboratory for impurities and soluble salts. Depending on the results, various filter systems and water treatment units, iron removers, etc. are selected.

    Immediately after the hydraulic accumulator, water must enter the water treatment system. These devices must be located at a distance of 0.5 - 1 m from the hydraulic accumulator.

    Installation of collectors and boiler

    After the filter systems, the water should be separated into two streams: one to the cold water collector, the second to the water heater.

    Before the cold water collector, be sure to install shut-off valves and a drain valve. On every pipe in the manifold too. The number of pipes depends on the number of water consumers in the house.

    Laying a water supply system to a private home would be incomplete without providing hot water.

    On the pipe that leads to the water heater, we install a safety valve, an expansion tank and a ball drain valve immediately below the boiler.

    At the outlet of hot water and the water heater, we also install a ball valve. Then we connect the pipe to a hot water collector, from which we distribute pipes throughout the house.

    At this point, the installation of water supply in a private house with your own hands can be considered complete. Don’t forget to first check that the system is working and that there are no leaks in all areas of the water supply. If the results are positive, you can safely use it.

    strport.ru

    What equipment is needed

    To install water supply to a private house from an autonomous source, you need to stock up on the following equipment:

    • pumping station;
    • hydraulic accumulator (a special container into which a sufficient supply of water is pumped);
    • a water treatment system installed on a pipe through which water is supplied for domestic needs;
    • storage water heater.

    Shut-off valves must be installed in front of all equipment used in the system. This will allow you to disconnect devices from the system for repair or replacement without disrupting the water supply to the entire house.

    How to make plumbing in a private house with your own hands

    Water supply can be organized using two types of pumps:

    • surface models that are not immersed in the water intake source ensure the rise of water from a depth of 8-9 meters, which is why they are used in wells;
    • submersible models are placed directly in a well or well, and their power allows you to raise water to a height of more than 200 meters.

    Conducting from the well

    A trench is dug from an existing or newly constructed well to the house, the bottom of which should be below the freezing mark of the soil in the given area. Next, a 32 mm pipe (copper, steel, polypropylene or metal-plastic) is laid at the bottom of the trench at a slight slope towards the source. The slope is necessary to prevent water from stagnating in the pipeline. The pipe is led into the basement through a hole in the foundation, which is insulated. Otherwise, in severe frosts, freezing may occur in this place.

    From the well

    You can also supply water to your home from an autonomous source, which is usually a well or well. It is recommended to use water from open reservoirs only for technical purposes; it is not suitable for drinking or cooking.

    Video: how to provide yourself with clean water

    The laying of communications from the well, protected from freezing and the ingress of contaminated wastewater by a caisson (metal container), begins with assembling a bundle of cable, safety rope and water supply pipe covered with aluminum tape. Then a submersible pump is attached to them and lowered into the well. On the surface, the cord is wrapped in insulation, after which they begin to lay it at the bottom of a one and a half meter trench dug from the well to the house.

    Important! The depth of the trench may be different, depending on the degree of soil freezing in the area.

    They bring the pipe and cable into the house, then install:

    • a tank that will allow you to turn on the pump as needed;
    • a control unit designed to protect the system from voltage surges in the network, as well as from overheating.

    Features of connecting to the central highway

    If there is a central water supply in a populated area, it is not at all difficult to install a water supply system in a private house. Especially if the highway passes close to the object. After receiving permission to connect from the organization servicing the water supply system, within a couple of days the connection is made in accordance with the technical conditions and estimate documentation. Digging trenches to the required depth is carried out using special equipment, so excavation work takes only a few hours.

    Important! The work may take longer if you have to dig by hand. In some cases, special equipment cannot be used, otherwise previously laid communications may be damaged.

    Next, a pipeline is laid from steel or polypropylene pipes, and shut-off equipment is installed in the inspection well and in the house. After completing the external work, they begin wiring indoors according to the diagram.

    How to ensure good water pressure

    For normal operation of plumbing and household appliances, a certain water pressure must be maintained in the pipeline. To achieve a sufficient level of pressure in the pipeline, a water tank or accumulator is installed in the attic. A water intake is installed in the well, equipped with a filter mesh and a check valve. The water supply to the system is organized using a pump that can automatically turn on when the pressure drops and turn off when the value of this parameter is restored.

    When calculating the volume of a water tank, it is assumed that for each person permanently residing in a private house, 50 liters are required per day. In addition, a supply of water is stored to extinguish a possible fire. When choosing a hydraulic accumulator, the volume is calculated taking into account the fact that each tap should have 20 liters of flow per day.

    Internal wiring of water points

    The layout of water supply pipes can be done in two ways:

    • serial connection of consumers to the system;
    • collector connection.

    The first method is recommended for use in small houses with a small number of water consumers. The system can cope with the needs of one or two residents. With a larger number of residents, inconvenience may occur, since when several water points are turned on simultaneously, the pressure in the system drops. As a result, in the most remote place the water barely flows.

    The second method of installing a water supply system is more difficult, but during operation there are no problems with pressure. Therefore, in cottages, pipe routing is carried out according to a manifold circuit.

    If the consumer is significantly removed from the pumping station, there will, of course, be pressure losses in the pipeline. However, their quantitative values ​​are an order of magnitude less than losses when connecting water consumption devices in series.

    To install a water supply system yourself, you need to have free time and the skills to conduct construction work. If you feel a deficiency of the first or second, then it is better to contact specialists. Of course, you will have to pay for their work, but you will get fast and high-quality results. You should not save on installing the system, because this is a long-term investment that ensures the comfort of living in a private home.

    aqua-rmnt.com


    Drawing up a preliminary structure of connections should not be ignored, even if the water is supplied only to the bathroom or kitchen. By drawing up a detailed project, you can correctly calculate the materials and avoid problems during installation.

    The water supply scheme should be developed taking into account:

    • number of water consumption points;
    • estimated number of collectors;
    • boiler volume;
    • number of filters and pumps;
    • location and distance to each element of the water supply system.

    On the plan it is necessary to mark the exact locations of consumers and devices, as well as indicate the length of the pipeline through the premises of the home.

    The project should be drawn up on a single scale according to the measurements of the building. And the more accurate it is, the faster you can determine how much materials you will need for the job.

    There are two options for pipe marking:

    • consistent;
    • collector

    Features of serial connection


    The sequential method is suitable for a small house with 2-3 residents due to its low power. The principle of operation is as follows: water enters the building through a water supply system; inside the building, near each water intake point, a tee is installed, which drains the liquid to the end consumer.

    If several taps are in use at the same time, then the water pressure to the far tee will be weaker than to the near one.

    Collector connection type

    The collector circuit allows water to be supplied to each point with the same pressure because the water supply pipes are diverted from the collector and branched to all taps and mixers.

    Laying lines this way will require more pipes compared to a serial connection, but it is much more practical and convenient.

    Development of a diagram and connection plan


    A typical water supply scheme for a private home consists of the following components:

    • water source, that is, a well;
    • pumping station or pump. With its help, the internal pipeline is connected to a well or other source;
    • hydraulic accumulator for monitoring pressure level readings in the system;
    • shut-off valve to stop water supply in case of leakage or scheduled repairs;
    • to divide the flow of incoming water between domestic and technical needs (watering the garden, outdoor shower, etc.), it is necessary to use a tee;
    • filtration systems, which are equipped with a pipe that drains water into the house to purify the liquid from foreign impurities;
    • a tee separating the water flow into cold water and water used for heating.

    Next, the tube for cold water is immediately connected to the corresponding collector, and for hot water - first to the water heater (boiler, boiler). After this, both systems branch out throughout the building. Most often they are carried out together, with the exception of utility rooms where hot water is not needed.

    Plumbing in a private house: how to choose and install pipes


    The quality of the materials from which the pipes are made is of great importance for the water supply system, since the service life of the structure depends on them.

    There are several types of pipes


    • Copper. They are characterized by high resistance to ultraviolet radiation, corrosion, and bacteria. They can easily withstand pressure changes and high temperatures. Their disadvantage is their high cost.
    • Metal-plastic. Their base consists of aluminum, and the edges and core are covered with a ball of polyethylene. The inner shell prevents rust and prevents dirt and mineral deposits from sticking, and the outer shell protects the product from exposure to sunlight (when laid on the surface) and condensation. Such pipes are susceptible to deformation at high (95°C) and low (minus) temperatures, so thermal insulation with a heating cable is required for external systems.
    • Steel pipes are durable, but despite this, they are subject to rust. The installation process is labor-intensive, since to connect the parts it is necessary to cut a thread on each element of the tube or fasten it by welding.
    • Polypropylene. They are in greatest demand because they are easy to install, do not oxidize, are equipped with reliable connections and can last for over 50 years.

    An important point is the selection of pipe diameters, since the design and functioning of the water supply depends on it.

    The dimensions (diameters) of pipes should be selected according to the length of the pipeline:

    • for a line longer than 30 m - 32 mm is suitable;
    • for a pipeline of medium length (less than 30 m) 25 mm should be used;
    • for short wiring up to 10 m - 20 mm.

    It is not difficult to install water supply in a private house using plastic pipes, but nevertheless, the fastening must be carried out using a certain technology.

    The following are used as connecting elements-fittings: couplings, angles, tees, shut-off valves, elbows and flange fastenings (it is better to prepare them in advance with a reserve).

    1. The pipes are cut with special scissors (it will be convenient to use a KRAFTOOL pipe cutter) into pieces, taking into account the gaps for entering the fitting.
    2. Lay out on a hard surface in the order of assembly.
    3. To fix the parts, the fastening points are marked with a felt-tip pen.
    4. For polyfusion welding, a nozzle of the required diameter (under the pipe) is installed. The end of a plastic pipe and a fitting are placed on it. The device warms up to 260-300 °C (heating time depends on the size of the tube and is indicated on the back of the welding box). Then both ends are removed and fixed at the same time. In this position, the pipe and fitting are kept for 15-20 seconds until completely solidified.

    Distribution of pipes throughout the premises begins from the point of water collection. First, a ball valve is placed between the mixer and the pipe; it makes it possible to shut off the water in case an accident occurs or repairs are needed. After this, the line is connected to the collector.

    Pipelines are laid out according to certain rules.

    • When installing pipes (to make them easier to repair), it is necessary to retreat 20-25 mm from the walls.
    • Installation of drainage taps is carried out with a slight inclination in the direction of the subsequent mixer or tap.
    • Pipes for water supply are connected to the walls using clips, which are attached in all corner fastenings; in other areas, the gap between them is allowed from 1.5 to 2 meters.
    • To combine polypropylene pipes at an angle, HDPE fittings from Unidelta or other companies and tees with identical diameters are used.

    Source for water supply: which one to choose?


    The water supply scheme for a private house can be implemented in several ways:

    • From the central highway;
    • From the well.

    Connecting to a central water supply requires permission from the appropriate authority, and this is not always possible for private houses. If you decide to use this option, keep in mind that in the central water supply the pressure is already determined initially, and if several devices are used simultaneously, the water pressure in the one located further away will be lower than in the one located closer. Therefore, try to place consumers as compactly as possible.

    A well makes it possible to provide a site with water without official permission from government services, but this option is only suitable for seasonal use, and therefore is not suitable for permanent residences.

    The water supply system for a private house from a well allows you to use water of better quality than a well. But to lift it you need good pressure, so you will have to use more powerful equipment, for example, the deep-well electric pump OPTIMA (Optima) 4SDm 3/18 1.5 kW pumps liquid with a high sand content, filtering it without threatening the unit.

    Water supply system for a private house: how to organize

    Basically, pumping stations are used for arranging water supply systems. They are designed to pump water from a source directly into a system or reservoir. Additional water purification filters are also used.

    The system includes:

    • pumps;
    • storage tanks;
    • hydraulic accumulators;
    • various water heaters (boilers, boilers, heating elements).

    The complex is located closer to consumers, in the basement or ground floor. A pipe coming from the water intake with a bronze or brass fitting with a diameter of 32 mm is connected to it. Next, the drain drain and check valve are connected alternately.

    Then all the required components are connected using a connection, which is popularly called “American”.

    1. A ball valve is connected to open/close the water supply.
    2. Next, a coarse filter is connected to remove coarse particles. Protects against rust and sand.
    3. After this, the pumping station system is equipped with a hydraulic tank or accumulator, including a pressure switch. But if the electric pump itself is located in a well, and special equipment is located inside the building, you need to install a relay on the top of the pipe, and a container on the bottom.
    4. Then an automation sensor is installed to protect the pump from running dry and shutting down in a timely manner.
    5. The process is completed by installing a fine (soft) filter.

    Selection of a hydraulic accumulator for a pumping station

    The hydraulic tank is a sealed container with two sections. One contains water, and the other air. With its help, the pressure in the system is continuously maintained and, if necessary, the operation of the pump is regulated.

    It is necessary to choose a tank model in accordance with the number of residents and daily water consumption. Its volume can range from 25 to 500 liters. For example, Wester WAV 200 Top is designed for 200 liters of liquid, and Unipress - for 80 liters.

    Bottom line

    Do-it-yourself water treatment in a country house is quite possible without outside help, and for this it is not necessary to hire professionals. Follow the advice of specialists, and there will be no problems during installation.

    If you decide to entrust the work to a construction company, the recommendations of specialists will help you monitor the actions of the installers, independently draw up a water supply diagram for a private house and participate in the development of the project. As a result, this will help to avoid shortcomings in work and related problems in the future.

    vsadu.ru

    Scheme

    Drawing up a diagram can be called a fairly important matter that should not be neglected. When the decision about the presence of a water supply system has been made, you need to draw a diagram according to which it will be laid in the house. It is important to take into account all elements, including filters, pumps, boilers, collectors, etc. The path along which the pipes will be laid, as well as the placement of all other elements, is plotted on the diagram along with the designation of distances. This will help you calculate the required number of pipes.

    In the diagram, pipe laying can be marked in 2 ways:

    • Connecting in series. It is recommended for small houses, since this scheme requires a main pipeline, and a tee is provided from it to each water consumer. With a large number of consumers, the pressure will be insufficient.
    • Using a collector. Separate pipes go from it to consumers, so the pressure will be equal in all parts of the house. The cost of this option is more expensive, since the number of pipes will be greater.

    Let's look at the most common scheme. The pipe from the source of water intake is led towards the pumping station, where there is a valve that prevents the return of water. The outlet pipe pumps water into the accumulator, and a tee is installed behind it. Pipes for technical needs and for home water supply depart from the accumulator.

    The pipe carrying water for use in the home leads to a purification system to rid the water of harmful impurities. A tee intended for dividing the water is again installed behind the water purification system. The pipe that conducts cold water is directed to the collector, and the pipe that conducts future hot water is supplied to the heater. Shut-off valves are installed on the lines to water consumers from the cold water supply collector. From the water heater, the pipe passes into the hot water collector, and then the pipes are distributed throughout the building.

    DIY installation

    The most difficult and dusty work when laying water pipes is creating holes in the floor and walls. The remaining tasks (cutting and connecting pipes, installing a pumping station, connecting filters, connecting pipes to the collector and water consumers, and others), although they take a lot of time, do not require significant physical strength. And therefore, even a beginner can arrange everything on his own.

    Types of pipes depending on material

    Having planned the installation of a water supply system, the first task will be to select pipes, in particular the material from which they will be made.

    Copper

    Such pipes are the most expensive, but are considered the best. Copper pipes are not harmed by corrosion, microbes, ultraviolet radiation, increased pressure, temperature changes, or harmful additives in water.

    Metal-plastic

    These are aluminum pipes lined with plastic on both sides. Deposits do not accumulate on such pipes and rust does not develop. They are not affected by condensation or ultraviolet radiation from the outside. The disadvantages of such pipes are sensitivity to increased temperature (they deform at 95 degrees and above) and freezing.

    Steel

    Advantages of steel: durability and strength. Disadvantages: rust formation, labor-intensive work (the need for welding and threading when connecting).

    Polypropylene

    They are distinguished by good technical characteristics, durability (service life for 50 years), and ease of installation. For hot water supply, pipes made of polypropylene with reinforcement were created.

    Such pipes do not oxidize and do not need frequent inspection, so they can be hidden under plaster. The difficulty in choosing such pipes lies only in the need to use a special welding machine to connect them.

    Pipe diameter

    Choosing the correct diameter is also important. If it is insufficient, then due to turbulence of the water flow, more lime will be deposited on the walls, and the movement of water will create more noise.

    The diameter is selected taking into account that water should move at a speed of up to 2 m/s. It is also important to base the choice on the length of the pipeline. For a length of up to 10 m, pipes with a diameter of 20 mm will be sufficient; for a length of 10-30 meters, pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are suitable, and for a longer pipeline length, choose pipes with a diameter of 32 mm.

    To correctly determine the diameter of the pipes for a house with a large number of residents, it is important to take into account the simultaneous water consumption in the house - how many appliances and taps will be turned on at once (how much water they will flow per minute). For a small family, but with a large number of water-consuming appliances, you need to calculate the total water consumption of all points, and then subtract 25-40%.

    Welding of polypropylene pipes

    The connection of pipes made of polypropylene, including reinforced ones, is made by welding:

    1. The pipes are cut with special scissors, obtaining sections of a certain length.
    2. Mark weld areas that need to be cleaned using a damp alcohol wipe.
    3. Having installed the necessary attachments on the welding machine, turn on the device and set the temperature on it.
    4. After heating the device (the lights go out), we slide the pipe sections onto the nozzles up to the marks, but without turning them.

    When the pipes are already installed, wait a few seconds and remove the nozzles (let your assistant hold the device), after which we clearly and quickly connect the pipes and hold them together for a while. The result will be a smooth connection. When you don’t like the result, the connection section is cut off and the procedure is carried out all over again. The welded pipes are left to cool briefly and then used.

    Installation of water supply in private houses

    1. Prepared pipes are laid in the house, starting from water consumers.
    2. The pipes are connected to the consuming point with an adapter so that a tap can be installed to shut off the water.
    3. Pipes are laid to the collector. It is advisable not to pass pipes through walls or partitions, and if this must be done, enclose them in glasses.

    For easier repairs, place the pipes at a distance of 20-25 mm from the wall surfaces. When installing drain taps, create a slight slope in their direction.

    The pipes are attached to the walls with special clips, installing them in straight sections every 1.5-2 meters, as well as in all corner joints. To combine pipes at angles, fittings and tees are used.

    When connecting pipes to the collector, a shut-off valve is always installed (it is needed for repairs and the possibility of shutting off water consumption).

    Try to make minimal angles or turns so that less pressure is lost.

    We carry water from the well

    Water enters the well from shallow layers, so it often contains many impurities. Such water without purification is used for domestic and economic needs, and in order to make it drinkable, it is necessary to carry out water treatment, having previously submitted the water for analysis. The main advantage of constructing a well is that its construction does not require permission from government organizations.

    We carry water from the well

    Since the water comes from deep layers, it is cleaner than well water and has a stable chemical composition. Most often, such water is free of microorganisms and harmful compounds. When choosing this option for a water source for a private home, keep in mind that drilling a well requires a design and its approval.

    Centralized water supply

    A permit is required to connect to the water main. Engineers from the organization operating the central water supply system will evaluate your project, the power of your pump, and the volume of water consumption. To control water consumption, you will also need to install meters.

    Laying water pipes

    The outer part of the water supply can be laid openly or hidden in a trench. If the underground option is chosen, then it is important to install communications taking into account the depth of soil freezing. When installing a pipeline above the freezing level or above the ground, care should be taken to ensure thermal insulation.

    Pumping station

    From the source, water is pumped by a pumping station, which is usually located in the basement, on the 1st floor or in the basement. It is advisable to place the station in a heated room so that the water supply system functions in winter. A fitting is placed on the pipe from the source to the pumping station so that when repairing the water supply system, the water can be turned off. A check valve is also connected.

    If you need to turn the pipe, you need to use a corner. After this, with a quick connection we install a ball valve, a filter for coarse cleaning, a pressure switch, a hydraulic accumulator (if the pump is located in a well or in a well), a sensor against “dry” running, a filter for fine cleaning and an adapter. Finally, the serviceability is checked by starting the pump.

    Hydraulic accumulator

    It is represented by a sealed 2-section tank with water in one compartment and air, which is under pressure, in the other compartment. Such a device is needed to stabilize the pressure in the system and turn the pump on/off. When you open a faucet in a building, water flows out of this apparatus, which reduces the pressure. The result will be the relay activating and turning on the pump to increase the pressure.

    The volume of the tank is selected taking into account the needs of the people living in the house. It can be 25-500 liters. Installing a hydraulic accumulator is not a prerequisite - you can use a storage tank on the top floor or attic, then the pressure for water flow will be created by the weight of this tank. However, such a system will not work if there is a washing machine in the house.

    Water purification and preparation

    The water in your source will have to be tested in a laboratory, identifying soluble salts and other impurities. This is necessary for selecting filter systems. After passing through the hydraulic accumulator, the water enters the water purification system, located 0.5-1 meters from it.

    Installation of collector and boiler

    After the purification system, the water is separated into 2 streams. One is for cold water and goes to the manifold, and the second is for hot water and goes to the heater. It is mandatory to install a drain valve on all collector pipes and in front of it, as well as shut-off valves. The number of pipes will be determined by the number of water consumers.

    A drain valve, a safety valve, and an expansion tank must be installed on the pipe leading to the heater. You will also need a drain valve in the place where the hot water will come out. After this, the pipe is directed to the collector, which will contain hot water.

    Maintenance and repair

    The operation of the water supply system should always be monitored, and any leaks or other problems should be corrected without delay. If there is a small breakthrough at the site of damage, you can install a rubber gasket secured with a clamp.

    For quick repairs, you can use cold welding, covering the breakout area after degreasing with acetone.

    If there is a fistula in a new pipe, a bolt is screwed into the drilled hole (if the pipe is old, this method is not suitable, since it will lead to an increase in the fistula).

    dekormyhome.ru

    Workflow Description

    We divide the work into 3 parts:

    1. Calculations and purchase of materials;
    2. Laying the outer part of the system;
    3. Laying the internal part of the system.

    Calculations, design and procurement of materials

    Water can be supplied in three ways:

    • Taking water from a well. Most often this option is found in rural areas. In this case, a pumping station is installed in the house, which pumps water into the house. A diagram of such a system indicating all components is shown below;
    • Water intake from a well. The pump pumps water directly from the water source, so there is no extraneous noise in the house, and the system itself consists of simple components that are available in every plumbing store;
    • Connection to the central water supply. This is the most preferable option, but not every locality has running water, especially if we are talking about rural areas. If you are lucky and can connect to the central system, then your circuit will look something like the figure below.

    Now let’s look at the features of drawing up a water supply diagram for a private house with our own hands. There is no universal option; you must decide in advance where the water consumers will be located and, based on this, draw up a rough sketch.

    Necessary materials:

    Illustration Description
    Pump. Necessary if water is drawn from a borehole or well. Its configuration depends on the system and is selected separately in each specific case.

    HDPE pipe (low pressure polyethylene). Used for laying the external part of communications.
    • If the distance to a well, well or central water supply is more than 30 meters, then you need an option with a diameter of 32 mm;
    • If the length of the pipeline is less than 30 meters, then a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm will suffice.

    Fittings for HDPE pipes. The exact quantity and configuration of components are determined according to the project. As an example, use the diagrams presented above; they show in detail where certain fittings are used.

    Polypropylene pipe. Use the reinforced version (the photo shows how to identify it by eye), it is suitable for communications with cold and hot water.

    The optimal diameter is 20 mm, it is enough even with a large volume of water consumption. The quantity is calculated based on the length of all pipelines in the house.


    Distribution manifold. Necessary to maintain equal pressure in all lines of the system. Serial connection without a comb (also called a collector) is allowed in small houses where no more than 3 people permanently live.

    Fittings for polypropylene pipes. Calculated according to the system design. Every turn, branch and connection is made by a fitting, so the assortment and quantity differ in each house.

    Fasteners To fix the pipes, special clips are used, which can be connected to each other if several lines need to be installed.

    The elements are fastened to the wall using dowels or self-tapping screws, it all depends on the type of surface.

    Now let's look at the tools that are necessary when doing the work yourself:

    • . In common parlance it is called a soldering iron. This is the main tool with which the installation of water supply in the house is carried out; the price of the simplest options is about 1,500 rubles;
    • Pipe shears. A special device that allows you to cut plastic pipes at a perfectly right angle. With its help you can cut elements with a diameter of up to 63 mm;
    • Sharp knife. Sometimes there are burrs at the ends. To cut them, keep any knife handy.
    • Composition for degreasing pipes. Alcohol-based solutions are sold, with which the ends of the elements are treated before joining. You can also find special wet wipes for these purposes on sale.

    Laying the outer part of the system

    This part of the work consists of the following stages:

    Illustration Description of the stage

    Digging a trench. It can go to a well, borehole or centralized water supply pipe.

    The depth should be below the freezing point of the soil in your region. If it is impossible to dig to the required depth, then you will need to lay the pipe in a special insulation.


    If you have a well, the pipe is connected to the pump. This is done simply and quickly using a special fitting.

    The power cable is attached to the pipe using plastic clamps.


    If you have a well, then install an intake pipe. It is attached through an elbow, with a mesh filter placed at the end to protect the system from sand and other impurities.

    Insertion into the central water supply is made using a coupling. It is put on the pipe, after which a hole is drilled and the tap is screwed in. No welding is needed.

    The pipe is laid in the trench. Everything is simple here - the main thing is to carefully lay out the communications and bring them to the house. Make sure there is enough length.

    The pipe is led into the house. Before placing it under the foundation, I advise you to insulate the part of the structure that goes up, since it is the water supply to the house that freezes at low temperatures.
    The entrance to the house is being installed. A rotary coupling is installed, and a tap is attached behind it. Next comes a mesh filter with a sump and a water meter (if you have a centralized option), behind which there is a splitter for hot and cold water.

    If the water supply is from a well or well, then a meter and a splitter are not needed; a pressure gauge is located in their place.

    Laying the system in the house

    Do-it-yourself plumbing in a private house is done as follows:

    Illustration Description of the stage

    Preparing the soldering iron. To do this, first place attachments of the size you need on the tool, after which it is placed on a flat surface or secured to the tabletop if the design provides a clamp.

    The kit always comes with instructions; be sure to read it to know the heating time and other rules for operating the equipment.


    The pipe is cut into pieces of the required size. First, measurements are taken, after which the pipes are marked.

    You need to cut carefully, holding the tool strictly perpendicular.

    After cutting, check the ends; if there are burrs, carefully cut them off with a knife.


    The ends of pipes and fittings are degreased. To do this, use a rag soaked in a special composition or a damp alcohol wipe. It is important to carefully process the areas to be joined.

    Welding depth marks are made on the parts to be joined.. Marks are placed at a distance of 16 mm from the edge. Before making them, wait for the surface to dry after degreasing.

    Do not miss this nuance; to make reliable water supply in the house you need to carefully follow the technology.


    The elements are put on the nozzles and heated. This must be done on a fully heated soldering iron (when the red light goes out).

    As for the heating time, if there is no indicator on the tool, the parts should be held for 7-8 seconds and immediately removed.


    Elements connect. The pipe is inserted into the fitting, compressed tightly and held in this position for several seconds.

    Do not rotate the pipe under any circumstances, as this will reduce the reliability of the connection.

    When assembling the water supply with your own hands, look at the connections; they should form polypropylene rollers as in the photo, this is a sign of high-quality soldering.


    Each branch is made separately. The water supply system is assembled strictly according to the diagram.

    It is important to carefully connect each joint to ensure the reliability of the plumbing.


    Clips are attached. The pipe is carefully moved to the side, after which fasteners are installed along the line of its location.

    You can install fastenings in advance. Often the water supply communications in a private house are hidden in the wall; in this case, the grooves are made in advance.

    Do-it-yourself water installation in the house takes 2-3 days. The work is simple and you save huge amounts of money, because installation most often costs almost the same as the materials.

    Conclusion

    Using the article as instructions, you can draw up a project, purchase materials and install plumbing in the house. The video in this article will help you understand the topic even better, and if you don’t understand something, ask your questions in the comments.

      Equipment warranty

      Warranty for main equipment up to 3 years

      Insurance of installation works

      All installation work at your site is insured for 6,000,000 rubles

    Obion company carries out professional installation of water supply systems in Moscow and Moscow Region. We implement reliable and energy-efficient utility network projects for a store and industrial facility, for a sports complex and restaurant, for a summer house and cottage. Modern engineering communications meet the following criteria:

    • The type of network, as well as the selected material and technical equipment, optimally correspond to the mode of use of the facility, the source of water supply, soil characteristics, climatic conditions and other factors.
    • Technical solutions are provided for comfortable operation of the facility: water filtration, availability of hot and cold water supply, wastewater disposal.
    • The quality and composition of water meets sanitary and hygienic standards, as well as special customer requirements (especially important for manufacturing enterprises).
    • The network is energy efficient: the needs of the facility are fully satisfied with minimal operating costs.
    • Conditions have been created for easy removal of blockages and quick cleaning of the network, as well as for its maintenance.
    • Conditions have been prepared for integration with other engineering networks (for example, Smart Home or SCS). In the future, it is possible to modernize the network or its individual elements.

    Installation of a water supply system, sewerage system and connection to a water source always require serious preparation. It is necessary to conduct a site survey, carry out surveys and determine the most suitable design options. It is advisable to coordinate the installation of the water supply system with the installation of other communications. An approximate work plan for installing a sewer system for a country house may include:

    1. Design. It is important to calculate the optimal cross-section of pipelines, provide for consumption points, and determine the total amount of required materials and pieces of equipment. It is also necessary to obtain permits for the implementation of the project from the relevant authorities (in Moscow these are MTC, Mosvodokanal, MOEK, SES). Along with the project, a general estimate for installing a water supply at home is also being prepared.
    2. Equipment. The supply of pumps, pipes, shut-off and control valves and all other necessary elements is organized at the site. All supplied equipment for the water supply system has certificates, passports, and manuals.
    3. Main works. Using special equipment, trenches are prepared and water supply pipes are installed. Then the pumps are installed and configured, and work is done to equip the well or connect to centralized sewer lines.
    4. Commissioning works. When all the necessary fittings, valves and valves are installed, the water supply system and all its elements are checked. After setup and commissioning, a package of as-built documentation is prepared.
    5. Commissioning of the facility. The result of the work is an effective and reliable turnkey water supply system for a private house. We prepare all executive documentation for specialized supervisory structures. You also receive professional maintenance services for the facility.

    Each stage of work on the design, procurement of consumables and installation of a water supply and sewerage system is carried out by specialists with significant specialized experience. Therefore, we offer optimal options for pipeline installation, without extra costs.

    Before starting installation of the project
    We check it according to 3 criteria:

    1. Performance of all systems
    2. Compliance with SP, PUE, GOST R
    3. Possibility of optimization

    Timing and cost of implementation of the sewerage and water supply system project

    On our website there is a detailed price list, which indicates the cost of installation of water supply for objects of various purposes and of various sizes. In general, the final price depends on a number of factors:

    • Scope and features of the water supply system. The complexity and price of installation of sewerage and water supply depend on the intended purpose of the system. We implement projects for drinking water, watering, fire protection and industrial purposes.
    • Water supply system source parameters. The requirements for the power and performance of pumping equipment depend on this.
    • Complex solutions. A turnkey water supply and sewerage system costs less in total than ordering the design, installation and supply of network components separately.

    The cost of installing sewerage and water supply is calculated taking into account the optimal ratio of price and quality of materials, as well as necessary and additional work. The experience of our specialists allows us to make the most advantageous offer for any property, such as a private house, shopping center, industrial building, etc.

    Installation of water supply and sewerage systems does not always require a one-time payment. If the installation is carried out by unskilled workers, then over time you will have to invest in correcting errors and troubleshooting problems.

    The Obion company invites you to order turnkey installation of a water supply system for your home in Moscow and receive reliable and energy-efficient communications at a competitive price. In addition, you can always get meaningful and useful advice in our office.

    External sewerage: materials and equipment

    Not only comfort, but also the level of costs for future repairs and maintenance of the system depends on the quality of sewerage installation in a house or other facility. External sewerage, unlike internal sewerage, is located under a layer of soil - which means that proper installation will eliminate the problems of subsequent opening of the system.

    One of the common types of treatment facilities is a cesspool. This is a fairly simple design with a reasonable cost. To construct a cesspool, special concrete rings are used. Compared to brickwork, they:

    1. More durable and suitable for installation in any type of soil.
    2. The smooth inner surface of the concrete rings facilitates quick cleaning.
    3. More affordable.

    When installing a sewer system, the choice of pipe material is no less important.

    Installation of sewerage from plastic pipes


    Plastic consumables are increasingly used for the installation of sewer pipes. And there are reasons for this - the material has many positive aspects. Let's look at the main types, their advantages and disadvantages:

    1. PVC plastic pipes. They have an affordable price and are used for sewers where a large flow area is required. Sensitive to chemicals and high temperatures (above 60 degrees).
    2. Plastic sewer pipes made of polypropylene. Not always tough enough, but resistant to reagents and heat - they are often used for installing storm sewers.
    3. Polyethylene pipes. Suitable for external pressure water pipes, withstands water hammer, is not afraid of chemicals, and lasts more than 50 years. But they are afraid of ultraviolet radiation and high temperatures (from 40 degrees).
    4. Corrugated plastic pipes. This design corrects the common disadvantages of plastic pipes - they can withstand much greater loads.

    To install external sewerage, only pipes specially designed for this purpose can be used. Pipes for internal sewerage will not be able to withstand the conditions and loads.

    Installation of sewerage from cast iron pipes

    Cast iron pipes have increased strength and have not yet been replaced by plastic - especially in those areas where special wear resistance of the sewer system is required. Cast iron can easily withstand the physical stress of the soil and is also not afraid of temperatures. It also has reduced noise levels.

    Cast iron pipes are less often used for sewer installation in private homes - this is due to the difficulties of installation, maintenance, and creating new connections. Typically, cast iron is used for large sewer lines with a deep burial level.


    Using modern methods of water supply installation, we offer individual solutions for each client - optimal in individual cases.
    First you need to determine the source of water supply:

    • Well.
    • Well.
    • External highway.
    1. Between the source and the pipe entry it is necessary to dig a special trench in a straight line, with a slope. The usual depth is 1-2 meters, but depends on the level of soil freezing. A layer of gravel and sand is laid at the bottom of the trench.
    2. A glass under the pipe is installed in the upper ring of the well. An insulated sleeve is placed at the entry point into the house.
    3. The pipe is being laid and connected to the pumping station.
    4. The pipe is covered with insulation and filled with soil.

    An approximate diagram of the installation of water supply and sewerage in a private house allows you to assess the scale of the work. In practice, all installation work is preceded by careful network planning and design.

    This is an essential part of furnishing a private home. Storm drainage is necessary to prevent flooding of the site during prolonged rains or periods of snow melting. In addition, it prevents the foundation of the house from getting wet.
    The site can be equipped with any of three types of storm drainage:

    1. Underground storm sewer - installation occurs without any external outlets. This is a labor-intensive operation, but the most aesthetic and effective.
    2. Aboveground storm drainage system is equipment for drainage gutters.
    3. Mixed storm sewer is a combination of the two previous types.

    In order for storm drains to effectively remove water from the site and the foundation of the house, careful calculation and correct use of any of the listed types is necessary. You can find out more about the systems from our managers by phone or email.

    The Obion company invites you to order turnkey installation of water supply for your home in Moscow and receive reliable and energy-efficient communications at a competitive price. To pre-calculate the cost of services, call us or send an email. In addition, you can always get meaningful and useful advice in our office.

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    It is impossible to imagine a comfortable life without water supply and sewerage. The presence of water in the tap and flushing of the toilet has become an essential condition for the comfortable existence of all humanity. Few people living in apartment buildings think about how sewer lines are laid and how water is supplied to the premises. But those who are engaged in the construction of large buildings or private houses must understand all the intricacies of installing water supply systems.

    It all starts with a project

    Drawing up design documentation is the first stage of any type of construction work. And the correct installation of a sewerage and water supply system is simply impossible without the development of a competent project.

    This document not only indicates all the initial data and processes them, but also makes all the necessary calculations, selects the necessary equipment, etc.

    The approximate content of the water supply and sewerage project will be as follows:

    • collection of initial information and initial parameters;
    • determining the value of water consumption and wastewater disposal;
    • characteristics of general data;
    • passport of the water supply and drainage system;
    • general plan of the facility and plans of each floor with supply routes;
    • axonometric diagrams of the water supply system;
    • floor plans indicating the location of drainage communications;
    • system input and sewage outlet units;
    • non-standard items (water drainage by gravity, water heated floors, etc.);
    • specifications, estimates and certificates for equipment.

    In the process of drawing up a project, many questions arise, related, for example, to the number of people living (working) in the building, the location of the water source, where water drainage will be necessary, etc. Processing of all data is the basis for creating a technical specification for drawing up a water supply system project and sewerage.

    The design of the project is also of great importance; it must be completed in accordance with regulatory requirements and approved by the relevant authorities. Therefore, it is better to trust the preparation of this type of documentation to professionals with experience in this field.

    Stages of installation of water supply and drainage systems

    A properly developed project greatly simplifies the process of laying pipes and installing other elements of water supply and drainage systems. The document contains information about all the necessary equipment, dimensions of pipe sections, materials of parts, etc. Therefore, installation specialists will only have to properly install the main components of the systems.

    After coordination and approval of the project, the following procedures are performed:

    1. Preparation of highways. At this stage, in accordance with the developed schemes, the marking and installation of water supply and sewerage networks is carried out.
    2. Installation of supply pipelines. Using the chosen technology, water supply and drainage pipes are assembled and fastened.
    3. At the last stage, equipment for water supply and sewerage systems is installed. In this case, all devices must be adjusted and tested in various operating modes (normal, emergency, extreme). Security groups are also installed to ensure normal operation of the system.

    All processes must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of fire safety regulations, sanitary standards and other legislative acts.

    Subtleties of installing water supply and drainage systems

    There are several nuances that should be known and taken into account both before starting installation work and during its implementation.

    Firstly, the optimal pipe slope calculated in the project must be maintained. Here it is necessary to perform everything as accurately as possible, otherwise the operation of the entire system will be disrupted.

    Secondly, the installation of pipelines must begin from a certain fixed point. In an apartment, this mark is the main riser, and in a private house - the intersection of the foundation.

    Thirdly, the water supply must always be in optimal climatic conditions: temperature changes, too low or high degrees will negatively affect the operation of the entire system.

    Fourthly, it is not advisable to install pipes under stairs or on walls. As for plastic pipes, they should not be exposed to unnecessary mechanical stress.

    Installation of a modern water supply system requires the presence of a pressure reducer and filters, devices for monitoring leakage of check valves and other important elements.

    Installation of water supply- a responsible matter, and at the same time very interesting. Of course, you can turn to specialists, but doing something grandiose with your own hands is much more interesting. And besides, you will do it with your own hands exactly as you need, and not in the way the workers found convenient. And the cost savings will be significant.

    But let's get down to business. We have divided the stages of work on installing a water supply system into several points, and for convenience we have summarized them:

    It is worth noting that this stage is one of the most important in our work, because a correctly drawn up diagram will help to avoid mistakes, warn of possible problems, and also allow you to calculate the quantity and cost of materials. There is no need to spend too much effort and time on the plan - the main thing is to take into account all the details, and it doesn’t matter how you display them on a piece of paper.

    An example of a water supply plan drawn up “on the knee”

    To make a correct and convenient diagram of your future bathroom plumbing, take a sheet of paper (preferably squared) and a pencil. Decide what plumbing fixtures will be installed, where what furniture will be placed and how exactly you will lay the pipes. If the dimensions of the bathroom and finances allow, the pipes can also be laid behind the wall (if the walls are covered with plasterboard). The water supply diagram in a private house will be a little more complicated than indicated in the photo above, but the principle remains the same - the main thing is to take into account all consumers and calculate the dimensions and fittings, otherwise tapping into the water supply during operation will lead to inconvenience.

    An important point - for example, today you will want to use only a washbasin, shower and toilet in the bathroom, but if you plan to install any other amenities in the future (for example, a washing machine, urinal or), then take care of this in advance by providing in your plan separate terminals with plugs. This step will save you from completely reworking the water supply in the future.

    Installation of water supply from polypropylene pipes is versatile, but in this case you need to take care of the availability of certain parts in advance. For example, any bend is a corresponding corner (or several), they come in different angles - 90 or 45 degrees. Polypropylene pipes, unlike metal-plastic ones, cannot be bent, however, fittings for them are inexpensive (about 10 rubles apiece).

    Polypropylene pipes for water supply and fittings for them

    At the head of your water supply system (i.e. at the entrance) there must be a reliable tap that will be able to reliably turn off the water in an apartment or house for a long time. Don't forget about water meters. Take into account in your plan all the necessary parts (fittings, taps) and the size and type of pipes. Experienced craftsmen recommend not to skimp on the inlet valve of the riser, because... If it breaks down, there will be no way to turn off the water. Therefore, buy an inlet valve based on the quality and reputation of the company, and not on the price.

    If you want to save on materials, then there are some tips on this matter: for example, you can place the main decoupling nodes in the middle of your circuit (and not at the beginning), this will help save on the length of the pipes. Also, good savings in the system are provided by the so-called tees, when from one branch, for example, a washbasin branch, an additional water supply branch goes to the washing machine. This is not always beautiful and neat, but it saves a pipe the size of the distance to the sink.

    By the way, many home craftsmen, for greater clarity, additionally draw all the details of the plumbing on the wall of the bathroom (i.e. where the pipe will go, where it is possible to install a tap or tee, etc.).

    Let's hope you don't have any problems with the circuit, so let's move on to the next stage.

    Stage 2. We decide on materials and tools.

    To work, we will need a machine for welding plastic pipes (iron)

    Let's immediately talk about the types and materials of pipes and fittings (connecting parts) that we will use. The choice may be between metal-plastic and plastic pipes. Experts are clear on this choice - only plastic (or correctly speaking, “polypropylene”). The fact is that metal-plastic water supply is based on connecting metal fittings with rubber gaskets, and this, according to experts, is very unreliable. Therefore, if you do not want to regularly “tighten” the water supply elements, it is better to choose plastic. At the same time, plastic water pipes are often cheaper than metal-plastic ones precisely because of the expensive metal fittings.

    Therefore, we will opt for plastic pipes, which are assembled using soldering (don’t be alarmed ahead of time, it’s simple).

    To install a polypropylene water supply, you will need a special tool - the so-called “soldering iron (iron) for plastic pipes.” It is not expensive, from 800-1000 rubles.

    Moreover, if you do not plan to constantly work on plumbing systems, you should not buy expensive devices. Even if you are installing a polypropylene water supply in a private house, with a large number of connections, the cost of an “iron for soldering pipes” will ultimately have virtually no effect on anything. It is also worth taking care of how you will cut plastic pipes. For this there are special “scissors”, their cost is about 400-500 rubles. True, if your budget does not allow you to “spray too much” on such trifles, and there will not be many connections in the system, you can carefully cut the pipe using improvised means (for example, a hacksaw or a good sharp knife).

    As you can see, plumbing also requires special tools, but their cost in any case will allow you to significantly save on self-installation.

    The connecting parts (angles, tees, connectors, or in professional language - “fittings”) are made of the same material as the pipe, only they are larger in diameter. They are not expensive, so you can buy several spare ones (in case you didn’t take something into account in the diagram). It is also recommended to take PVC pipes with a small margin.

    According to your scheme, purchase all the necessary materials and tools, and you can start working directly “on site”.

    Stage 3. Dismantling the old water supply system.

    If your bathroom still has old, unusable plumbing, then you need to start dismantling it. This is not difficult to do if you shut off the main water riser in the apartment. But you shouldn’t rush and do “destruction”; it’s better to do everything carefully, because sudden movements can cause damage.

    It will be more difficult if there is a need to change the entire water riser in the apartment, i.e. communications “up to” the main shut-off valve in the apartment. In this case, you cannot do without the services of the housing department, because You will have to shut off the water riser in the house for a while. You just need to call your management company and ask who to contact about shutting off the riser during repairs.

    Stage 4. Installation of a new water supply

    An example of welding a pipe with a fitting on a stand

    So, let's get down to the most interesting part of this whole “epic”. Prepare all the necessary tools in advance, stock up on an extension cord (if it may be useful) and, of course, patience. It is most convenient to install the water supply system together with a partner. But if there is no one to involve in the work in the house, it is quite possible to cope on your own.

    At the second stage of this article, we decided that the best option for water supply is plastic pipes, which will have to be connected using a special apparatus for welding plastic pipes (iron).

    1. To begin, cut the PVC pipes for the initial stage of assembling the plumbing and prepare the necessary fittings and taps. Installation of the water supply system should begin “from the riser”.

    It is very important to take into account when cutting pipes that some part of the pipe will be inserted into the fitting (extension or angle). Therefore, in advance, using a ruler, measure how much the pipe fits into the fitting and, taking this into account, cut the pipe (usually 4-5 mm). The basic rule of home craftsmen applies here: “Measure twice, cut once.” Haste can lead to deviations in dimensions from the plan.

    Welding plastic pipes with an iron

    Carefully read the instructions for your welding machine (iron), because... Some features of each may differ. Assemble the device according to the instructions, install the nozzle of the required size (depending on the diameter of the pipes used).

    2. Clean the ends of the pipes to be welded from dirt and shavings (if you cut the pipe with a hacksaw). The cut should be smooth and clean.

    3. In the instructions for your welding machine, specify how long you need to heat the connecting parts, and when everything becomes clear, turn on the machine.

    4. Be sure to wear heat-protective gloves (usually they are included with the welding machine), because The slightest touch of the iron with bare hands will cause a severe burn.

    5. When the “iron” heats up to the desired temperature (usually an indicator will indicate this), take the pipe in one hand and the fitting in the other. At the same time, insert the pipe and fitting into the heated nozzle from both sides almost all the way (leave a couple of millimeters) and wait the required time. The time may vary depending on the power of the iron or the diameter of the polyethylene pipe. Usually you need to hold from 5 to 25 seconds.

    6. When the indicated time has passed and the plastic parts are sufficiently hot, carefully remove the pipe and fitting from the nozzle and immediately carefully insert the pipe into the heated hole of the fitting. Try to make it as even as possible. Hold the pipe and fitting in this position for 5-10 seconds so that the plastic has time to “seize.” It is important to note here that if the fitting is made at an “angle”, take into account during welding which direction the angle will be facing.

    Welding of plastic pipes was successful. Such a connection does not leak, simply because it is welded and has become one.

    So, moving from the beginning of the riser to the final plumbing fixtures or taps, make pipe connections using fittings. Do not rush, it is important that the joint is welded well and smooth. Installing such a water supply system with your own hands is quite simple and at the same time reliable.

    If you have thought through a detailed estimate in advance, you should take care in advance to hide the water pipes behind plasterboard walls or in special boxes. Thus, the design project will not be disturbed by white pipes that are quite noticeable to the human eye.

    This is how the installation of water pipes in the bathroom occurs. Although these instructions can be used for any other purposes, for example, installing a heating system.

    

    It is unthinkable to imagine comfortable housing, be it an apartment, your own cottage or a small country house, without running water. The supply of cold and heated water has long become a prerequisite for comfortable living. Homeowners try to choose the most practical water supply option.

    We presented all the methods for connecting polypropylene pipes and listed the types of fittings used in the construction of circuits. Typical errors indicated. The information we offer is supplemented with diagrams, photo collections and videos.

    Steel has long been considered the traditional material for water pipes.

    However, today this option is used quite rarely. It was replaced by various plastics, among them polypropylene.

    Image gallery

    It is advisable to use special scissors to cut elements. True, this shortcoming is easily corrected. Most stores selling polypropylene pipes provide soldering equipment for rent.

    Polypropylene pipes are an excellent alternative to traditional steel parts. They are not subject to corrosion, resistant to aggressive environments, environmentally friendly, reliable and durable

    Features of the assortment of polypropylene pipes

    Polypropylene is a type of plastic produced by cracking petroleum products and petroleum gases. Its basis is propylene gas. Under high pressure with the presence of a catalyst, a polymerization reaction is carried out, as a result of which polypropylene is obtained. Pipes are subsequently made from it. Two types of such products are produced for water supply systems: single and multilayer.

    The first option is intended mainly for various types of pipelines through which cold water is transported. Multilayer or reinforced parts are used to construct hot water lines; they are also used for the installation of heating systems. Their main difference is the presence of several layers of polypropylene, between which reinforcing material is laid.

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