Spotlights for plasterboard ceilings come in various types and designs. They look neat on the plane of the ceiling and give the maximum amount of white or colored light that can be directed to a specific area of ​​​​the room. Thus, with the help of them, you can divide the room into zones not only by the intensity of lighting, but also by the color scheme.

Spotlights are installed in suspended ceiling systems made not only of plasterboard, but also in mineral fiber slabs, for example, structures such as the Armstrong system.

The wiring for spotlights is hidden behind the suspended ceiling structure, so it does not have to do the laborious work of installing a strobe to drown the cable in them. In addition, the technical part of the device will also be hidden in the interceiling space or in the ceiling, and only the decorative part of the lamp will remain visible, so they will look aesthetically pleasing and neat.

In order to choose one of the types of spot lighting devices for different residential premises, to correctly draw up a project for their installation, it is necessary to understand their characteristics and classification.

Point devices are divided according to several criteria - these are the types of lamps, supply voltage, design, installation method and purpose for a particular room.

It is important to know these differences, since some of them will help save money, others will comply with certain safety requirements when operating appliances, and still others will help harmonize the design of the room.

Luminaire design

If the design of spotlights is considered from different points of view, then they can be divided:

- for built-in and overhead;

- on rotary (cardan) and non-rotary;

- for single and cardan (block);

In addition, there is a division according to the type of lighting elements (lamps) used, by voltage, as well as by the level of moisture and dust protection.

• Embedded and overhead models

The design of such lighting fixtures, first of all, differs in the way they are installed. They are divided according to this criterion into overhead and built-in.

- Embedded options are distinguished by the fact that their entire technical part is located in the inter-ceiling space, and the decorative frame and the entrance to the cartridge for screwing in or installing a light bulb are on the outside of the suspension system.

- Overhead lights are fixed directly to the plasterboard surface, and their installation is significantly different from the built-in version. The installation of such models sometimes has more similarities with the installation of a conventional chandelier, since the lamp holder is located in the ceiling, fixed on the outside of the false ceiling structure.

Can you hang a chandelier?

The suspension and connection of this lighting device has a number of nuances, taking into account the features of the model - read in a special publication of our portal.

• Rotary and fixed models

- Fixed lamps are rigidly fixed in one position and illuminate a certain area. Their light cannot be redirected to another area of ​​the room.

A fixed lamp is “tied” to its lighting area

- Rotary (they are also called cardan) models are distinguished by the fact that the cartridge in their design is built into a special additional articulated device, for example, two rings on the axle shafts. It can be rotated and installed at different angles with a lamp screwed into it. It is these models that allow you to direct the light in the right direction to illuminate a separate area.

Rotary blocks can be equipped with both built-in and overhead types of spotlights.

The same type includes lamps fixed on a rod, the so-called spots. The lamp holder is located in a special housing, which has a hinged swivel mechanism. The case is mounted on a leg, with which it is fixed on a bar or decorative panel.

• Single and block lamps

Spotlights can be single or assembled in blocks of several units.

- Single lamps are equipped with one cartridge, respectively, have one lighting lamp.

- Block lighting devices are a structure consisting of several lamps that are built into one housing, which is either a box of any shape, or a special rod.

Depending on the design of block lamps, they can also be rotary and non-rotary, built-in or overhead.

Any design of such models is more massive, but it is also much more convenient to use, since by installing one unit with several rotary lamps, their light can be directed to different areas of the room.

Types of luminaires by lighting elements

In spotlights, they can be designed for the use of various lighting elements - this must be indicated in the instructions for the lighting device. So, in such lamps can be installed:

- incandescent lamps

- LED bulbs;

- halogen lamps;

- mercury (fluorescent) energy-saving lamps.

Lighting devices equipped with certain elements consume different amounts of electricity and can vary significantly in price.

• Conventional incandescent lamps are now quite rarely used in spotlights, as they are uneconomical in operation.

Luminaires equipped with incandescent lamps are considered "classic" devices, since they do not require special equipment - it will be enough to stretch high-quality wiring.

In addition to the wastefulness of incandescent lamps themselves, lamps designed to work with them have several more significant drawbacks:

Firstly, this is their height, which varies from 86 to 110 mm. This parameter must be taken into account, since the ceiling will become much lower, because the suspended structure will have to be lowered to the height of the cartridge, adding about 15 ÷ 20 mm of margin.

Secondly, a pronounced “minus” of such a lamp can be called its strong heating, especially if a high-power lamp is installed in the cartridge. The plastic elements of the lighting device may not withstand high temperatures and begin to gradually melt under their influence.

The only advantage of incandescent lamps is their affordable price, however, it must be taken into account that their service life is usually not very long.

• Halogen lamps are used to obtain a powerful luminous flux, scattered by a special glass shade. However, when installing such lamps in lighting fixtures, it should be borne in mind that they do not contribute to energy saving in any way. Their price is slightly lower than for LED bulbs, but they will also last a shorter period.

Most often, halogen lamps have a plug base, so if you plan to use them, then you need to choose lamps with the appropriate connector in the cartridge.

The height of halogen lamps is comfortable enough to be built into a plasterboard structure, which will need to be lowered from the ceiling surface by only 50÷70 mm. Since some halogen lamps operate on a voltage of 12 V, you will have to purchase a transformer for the entire installed system. In addition, for any "halogen lamps" a very important condition for their long-term operation is a soft starter - the lamp does not reach full power immediately, but within a few seconds. Often this device is combined with a step-down transformer.

Halogen lamps create a powerful luminous flux, which exceeds that of conventional or LED lamps. Lamps of this type allow you to use a special dimmer to adjust the intensity of lighting. The luminous flux from fluorescent lamps has its own shades - warm and cold.

Given all the positive qualities of this type of lamp, they can be called the most popular among all existing lighting elements used in spotlights.

• Energy-saving mercury lamps, which are most often called fluorescent lamps, save electricity quite effectively, but they have several significant drawbacks.

- First of all, it is that they adversely affect vision, can cause rapid eye fatigue.

- Such lamps require special disposal, as they contain substances harmful to the human body, in particular, very toxic mercury.

- Another disadvantage of this type of lamps is their height, which is almost the same as that of conventional standard incandescent lamps.

The intensity from these devices will be higher if they are installed in overhead fixtures. Well, if they are screwed into built-in models that are deepened into a plasterboard structure, then there is a significant weakening of the luminous flux, even despite the reflective surface of the ceiling.

In a word, for spotlights they can hardly be called a good option.

• LED lamps are quite expensive, but they justify themselves by the fact that during their operation a minimum of electricity is used, and this helps to significantly save on its payment. In addition, high-quality LED devices last much longer than any other lighting elements.

The most economical option is LED bulbs.

LEDs can have different luminous flux, as well as cold or warm light. Lamps that have a cool shade are usually used for installation in office spaces, as they increase efficiency. Elements that give warm lighting contribute to rest and relaxation, creating coziness, so they are recommended to be used in living rooms.

If it is decided to install spotlights with LED lamps, then you can use a special device that regulates the brightness of the lighting - a dimmer. It will allow you to create the right atmosphere in the room with the help of light intensity, scattering or "compacting" it.

Some types of these lamps are equipped with a special shade that can create various shadow or color patterns on the ceiling. This effect can be used to decorate a certain interior style.

Often, LED lamps are given a "classic" look.

LED lamps are made with different pinouts - for a conventional threaded cartridge (with Edison thread 14 or 27 mm) and with a plug connection characteristic of "halogen lamps". In addition, spotlights can also have specific sockets for GX70 and GX53 LED lamp bases. A sample is shown in the figure below.

Special base types - GX70 and GX53

Based on the foregoing, it can be argued that LED lamps are the best option for installation in spotlights today. The price is still high, however, they are safe, durable and economical, and quickly justify their purchase.

Differences in spotlights by voltage

As a rule, there are two main types of spotlights:

- devices designed for 220 V AC;

- lamps designed for 12 V;

You can find models with LED lamps that require 3 V DC.

This parameter is indicated on the packaging of both the lighting device itself and the lamps intended for it.

The voltage supplied to the lamp will directly depend on its type, so you need to decide in advance on the lighting elements, since connecting and drawing up a diagram of point devices has its own characteristics.

If you need to lower the voltage, you will need to use a transformer. The operation of certain types of LED lamps will require the installation of an additional device - the so-called driver.

If it is decided to change the types of lamps installed in the lamps to others having a different design, principle of operation and supply voltage, then most likely it will be necessary to make changes to the wiring diagram.

Luminaire protection level

Spotlights can be open and closed - the place of their installation depends on this parameter.

The open design is suitable only for rooms with normal humidity, but they cannot be installed in bathrooms, and even more so in bath rooms. In such devices, the lamp is not covered by a ceiling, so moisture can significantly reduce the life of the prior or even cause a serious accident. Most of the lamps with rotary mechanisms can also be attributed to open - they also try not to use them in rooms with high humidity.

For bathrooms, swimming pools and bath rooms, it is necessary to purchase special moisture-proof lamps.

In order for lighting fixtures to serve for a long time and do not pose any danger, they must be protected not only from moisture, but also from dust. Usually, the degree of protection is indicated on the prior itself and, of course, in its technical documentation. This is the IP index followed by two digits.

The first indicator will tell about the degree of protection against the penetration of solid dust bodies:

- 0× is a complete lack of protection;

- 1× - the device is protected from fragments up to 50 mm in size;

- 2× - indicates protection from 12 mm particles;

- 3× - from particles up to 2.5 mm in size;

- 4× - maximum size - 1.0 mm;

— 5× – partial penetration of fine dust is possible

- 6× - the device has a guaranteed protection against dust.

The second digit of the indicator will characterize the electrical appliance in terms of its protection from moisture:

- ×0 - moisture protection is completely absent;

— ×1 – the luminaire is protected from vertical ingress of water drops;

- ×2 - protection against drops falling at a small angle;

- ×3 - protection against splashes falling on the lamp at a large angle;

- ×4 - the lamp is protected from splashes falling on it at any angle;

- ×5 - there is protection against water jets;

- ×6 - the lamp is not afraid of direct exposure to a strong flow of water;

- ×7 - the device can be briefly immersed in water;

— ×8 – the luminaire can be under water for a long time, for example, when it is installed in swimming pools.

What is important to know about waterproof lamps?

If you plan to install lighting in the bathroom, then special requirements are imposed on the choice of devices. Read more about in a separate publication of our portal.

Preparation for work and installation of fixtures

Installing these devices in a plasterboard ceiling requires some preparation. This process includes the purchase of the necessary materials and tools, if the latter are not available in the house.

What is needed for installation

The following items are included in the set of materials:

• Electrical cable for wiring and connecting lighting fixtures. Its length is selected depending on the size of the room and the layout of the installation of fixtures. The cable can be two-wire, but some types of fixtures require grounding of their housing - in these cases, three-wire wiring is used. Preference is given, of course, to copper. Usually, a section of 1.5 mm is sufficient for a room.

• Insulating corrugated pipe, in which the cable will be protected from various influences. The length also varies depending on the length of the wiring.
• Terminals for connecting wires when connecting fixtures. These can be screw terminals, spring terminals, or. And the best option is Vago reusable clamping terminals. Although they are more expensive, but not so much as to save on the convenience of work and on the security of connections.

• Voltage transformer. It will be required if 12 V halogen lamps are selected for installation. This device must correspond to the required power. Usually it is chosen with the expectation that its output power exceeds the total power of the installed lamps by at least 20 ÷ 25%.

• A current driver will be required when installing some low voltage LED fixtures. This device simultaneously plays the role of both a step-down transformer-rectifier and a current and voltage stabilizer - many LEDs are very sensitive to changes in circuit parameters.

In the case of choosing a series connection of fixtures, the driver must have a current margin for the normal functioning of the entire circuit.

However, it should be noted that the serial connection has one important drawback - if one of the lamps fails, the entire circuit stops working. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out parallel installation, but in this case you will have to purchase a separate driver for each lamp. Some models of luminaires are equipped by manufacturers with their own drivers, in which case they can be connected in parallel without any problems. In any case, when purchasing, you should always carefully read the technical documentation of the devices.

• The spotlights themselves. Their number is determined depending on the drawn up scheme and the size of the area. Usually, their installation is carried out at a distance of 500 ÷ 1200 mm from each other.

Tools for installing spotlights

For convenient and high-quality installation of fixtures, you will need the following tools:

• Electric drill or screwdriver for cutting holes in drywall.
• A drill bit for cutting holes of 60÷75 mm or an adjustable version of the drill ("ballerina"), on which you can set the desired hole diameter.

• Roulette and a long ruler.
• Indicator for determining the phase of the voltage.
• Screwdriver Set
• Wire cutters, pliers - if you plan to crimp the connecting sleeves.
• Insulating tape or heat shrink tubing of the correct diameter
• A sharp knife or wire stripper for stripping wires before splicing them, or a protective device.

Installation of spotlights on a plasterboard ceiling

In order not to be mistaken in the amount of material purchased, to determine in advance the location of the fixtures, and also to plan the cable layout for them, you need to draw up your own or find a ready-made scheme.

• The first thing they do before starting the marking and installation of cabling is to mount a frame made of a metal profile or a wooden beam for a plasterboard ceiling.

Here you need to take into account which fixtures will be installed - overhead or built-in, since their installation is somewhat different from each other.

For example, for overhead lighting fixtures, it is necessary to fix a rigid base to the ceiling or to the frame, on which the panel of the overhead model will be installed and screwed through the plasterboard.

• The frame crate can be used to attach cable wiring to it, which is best to immediately “put on” in a corrugated plastic pipe.
• The tube is fixed on the crate on special brackets or screwed onto plastic clamps in several places, and the cable segments or loops 200 ÷ 300 mm long, to which the lamps will be connected in the places determined for their installation, are left in a free state.
• For ease of installation of lighting fixtures and for aesthetic reasons, they are placed at the same distance from each other - usually it is 500 ÷ 1200 mm. Later, the cable loops will be passed through the holes cut for them in the drywall and passed to the outside of the ceiling.
• Further, along the crate, drywall sheets are fixed, on which, using a tape measure and a ruler, focusing on the sheet connection line, the places where the lamps will be installed are marked. At the same time, it is very important to prevent a very common mistake by novice electricians when the intended hole suddenly falls on the frame guide.
• You also need to take into account that between the center of the future circle for installing the lamp and the wall there should be a distance equal to no more than 550 ÷ 600 mm
• If the circuit provides for the installation of a transformer, it is installed above the false ceiling, in the interceiling space, fixed on the crate elements or even simply laid on top of the sheet surface.

1 - overlap;

2 - plasterboard false ceiling;

3 - power cable supplied to the lamp;

4 - clips (clamps) holding the cable on the floor;

5 - transformer or driver.

• All wire connections that remain above the ceiling surface must be insulated with high quality. The best option is to use modern Vago terminals. If twisting is planned, then it is pressed into a copper sleeve, and then it is qualitatively insulated with a heat shrink tube or insulating tape. Bare contacts or connections must not be left.
• It is very important to remember that no matter how the wiring diagram is drawn up, it is not recommended to run the cable diagonally, since if a malfunction occurs, it will be much more difficult to detect it.
• If a complex wiring diagram is chosen, then a junction box is used for it, into which the main supply cable is connected, and the rest of the branches are made from it.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	In the marked places, using a drill-crown for wood or a “ballerina”, as in the illustration, nests are drilled with a diameter several (2÷3) millimeters larger than the installation size of the lamp, but necessarily less than the outer diameter of the decorative flange that will close the hole. Work should be carried out with great care, carefully, slowly, so as not to damage the cable and not crumble the drywall sheet.
	Further, through the hole, the ends or cable loop extended to the installation site are pulled out. If it is difficult to get the segments, then they can be picked up with a hook made of wire.
	The next step is stripping the ends of the wires by 5 ÷ 7 mm to insert them into the terminal.
	It is very important to observe the correct connection of the wires, otherwise, when connected to the power supply, the lamps may burn out, especially when they are switched in series. This is easy to observe, based on the color marking of the conductors. The blue color is always the “working zero”, yellow, green or yellow-green is the “ground zero”, and the color of the “phase” can be different. White, brown or red phase wires are more common, but this is not a dogma. If the luminaire itself also has a color code for the wires, this should also be observed. In the circuit breaker, only the phase wire should open.
	After the cable ends are cleaned, they are inserted from one side of the terminal and clamped with a screwdriver. If spring terminals are used (only for single-core wires or when a special tip is installed on the "multi-core"), then the wire is inserted until a secure clamp is provided.
	Even more convenient - Vago reusable crimp terminals with a locking lever. They are versatile and reusable. The wires are inserted with the stripped section into the hole until the insulation, and then the lever snaps down all the way.
	Similarly, wires coming from the lamp are connected to the terminals. Often there are devices that are not equipped with wires. In this case, the power wires coming out of the above-ceiling space can be attached directly to the lampholder terminals, as shown in the figure. However, it is more convenient, nevertheless, probably, at first to connect the wire segments to the lamp, and then - just as described above, through the terminal - if necessary, dismantling will simplify the work. But twists, even with reliable insulation, should be avoided - in the space above the false ceiling it is difficult to control their "behavior" - and sparking, heating, etc. are not excluded.
	When connected, the spotlight looks something like this.
	On built-in spotlights, special stoppers are provided - "antennae", which return to a horizontal position with springs. With the help of this simple “lock”, the lamp will be fixed to the plasterboard.
	Most models install directly into a slot cut into the drywall surface.
	The kit of other models (usually those that are also suitable for stretch ceilings) includes a special ring that frames the cut out hole. This is a fairly sensible solution - drywall along the cut edge will not crumble when installing or removing fixtures, and the device itself will be securely tightly installed in the socket. When installing, the "antennae" located behind the facing decorative flange of the luminaire are compressed, the luminaire is carefully inserted into the prepared hole. After installing the stopper, they open themselves and securely hold the lamp on the surface of the plasterboard ceiling.
	As a result, the lamp should neatly, tightly, without the slightest sag, stand in the place prepared for it.

Installation of an overhead spotlight, after fixing the drywall on the crate, takes place in a similar way, but with some features.

• When installing an overhead luminaire, the hole in the plasterboard false ceiling should not be made large, since the technical part of the luminaire will not be inserted into it. It will serve only to pull the cable loop to the ceiling surface for connection. A hole is also made in a certain place, where a rigid base (a platform or a piece of timber) is installed on top of the suspended ceiling to fix the fixtures.
• Further, the elongated cable is cut, its ends are stripped, and then, switched in the terminal.
• The contact wires of the lamp with stripped ends are also connected in the terminal, according to the wiring diagram, observing the color marking of the wire (phase-zero).

• On each overhead luminaire, the manufacturer provides a special bracket (mounting plate) (pos. 2), which must be fixed from the outside of the false ceiling to a rigid base. It should be noted that in different models of devices, such brackets may have different designs - but it is usually not difficult to deal with this.
• Excess cable (pos. 4) is tucked into the hole so that it does not interfere with the fixing of the bracket.
• Then, the bracket is screwed through the false ceiling to the rigid base.
• Further, the lamp itself is installed and fixed in it. Depending on the model, it can be screwed on both sides to the housing (pos. 1) with a plafond (pos. 3), open or with rubber seals, or even the plafond itself can be screwed into a mounting bracket.

Upon completion of the installation work on cabling and installation of fixtures, the wires are connected to the switch (phase with phase, and zero with zero). this work must be carried out according to the drawn up scheme. And it remains to turn on the power supply to the room in order to check the operation of the installed lighting.

The article should end with an important note: if there is no practical experience in installing electrical appliances with complex wiring, then it is better to entrust this process to a specialist. Amateurs do not like high voltage!

Video: an example of the practical installation of spotlights on a plasterboard ceiling

The installation of spotlights in drywall is preferable, since the height of the lighting fixtures is no more than 5 cm, which allows installation at the lowest point of a metal frame arranged under a suspended ceiling. And it saves space in the room.

Installation includes several stages, which are performed in a certain sequence:

• Planning;
• Wiring laying;
• Connection.

It is convenient to make notes with a felt-tip pen on the ceiling as the frame is assembled. Guided by this marking, wiring is quickly assembled in subsequent work. To do this, they make a drawing of the ceiling in advance, on which they determine the number of light points, the connection diagram, find out the footage and cross section of the power cable, etc.

It looks like the location of the wiring without GKL

Luminaire layout

For optimal distribution of light throughout the room, 3 types of connection schemes are used:

• In rows in a straight line from the window, the distance between the points is 1 m, the gap from the wall to the point is 60 cm;
• In a checkerboard pattern, taking into account the same rules for the arrangement of lamps as described above, it is effective, optimally distributes light in the room and uses spotlights as the main source of illumination;
• Along the periphery, where the main light source is a chandelier, and spotlights are located around it for additional illumination, their installation takes place 40 cm from the wall and at a distance of 80 cm from each other.

Often a combined arrangement of fixtures is used. They think over which type of backlight to use at the preparatory level, since the length of the wire and the number of connecting terminals depend on the number of light points, which are installed before sheathing the metal frame of the ceiling with drywall sheets.

The main points in working with wiring

As the main wire used for the installation of fixtures, a three-core cable with copper conductors is used. The cross section depends on the power of the lamps used. So for a 35-46 W lamp, a cable of 3x1.5 square meters is suitable. mm. Powerful lamps are not used for 2 reasons: they consume a lot of energy, they overload the cable. With insufficiently powerful fixtures, a step-down transformer is connected.

To spotlights, wires are carried out in a special corrugated pipe. It is mounted on the ceiling using plastic brackets / special metal loops, or through holes in metal profiles. The latter option is suitable for suspended structures of a complex type, designed for a large weight of a drywall sheet, otherwise the corrugated sleeve will put an unnecessary load on the frame and violate its integrity.

The connection points can be serial or parallel. The first type evenly distributes the voltage between all elements of the circuit, with the second type, installation is faster, but during operation, if one lighting element burns out, the rest also fail.

Working with drywall

After the wiring is connected, the frame is sheathed with drywall. To place the fixtures in the same plane as the ceiling, holes are made in the GKL sheet with a perforator / drill / screwdriver with a nozzle (wood crown or cutter). If there is none, use a clerical knife. The main thing is not to press hard on the surface of the sheet, otherwise it will deform, which will lead to damage to the material.

Hole locations are selected based on the location of the connecting terminals. The dimensions of these holes must match the diameter of the lamp body, otherwise the fixation of the lamps will not be reliable. This is checked based on the design of the lamp, which consists of:

• Cartridge with wires for connection;
• Terminal block;
• Lamp retainer on the body;
• Housing equipped with spring fasteners;
• Lamps (sold separately).

When the luminaire is connected, the spring fasteners are bent. If the hole is small, then the springs will not go through it and will not open. If too large, after installation, the lamp body will not hold securely due to the space created between the body and the plasterboard edge. Because of this, the lamp can jump out, roll, etc. The optimal hole diameter is 68 mm (the most common size for spotlights), its size is covered by the lamp.

Connection steps:

• Pull out the wires from the hole made;
• Connect the cartridge wires to the terminal blocks using screws and a screwdriver;
• Using an indicator screwdriver, in the wires inserted through the holes, find those that correspond to phase, zero and ground.

If the screwdriver indicator lights up, this is a phase. Zero is detected using a test lamp (a base connected to wires whose ends are bare). One end of the wire is connected to the phase and held, the second is selected from zero or ground, changing the position of the wire. If the lamp lights up when the wire touches, zero is found. The remaining wire is ground.

• Next, the wires from the holes are connected to the base terminal block;
• The spring fasteners on the lamp are bent, the lamp housing is mounted;
• A lamp is inserted into the cartridge (it is recommended not to touch the lamp with bare hands, but to use a piece of textile, so it will not burn out);
• A fixing ring is installed in the case fixed to the ceiling (to its inner radius), which will prevent the lamp from falling out;
• The same manipulations are carried out with the rest of the spotlights.

All work is carried out with the electricity turned off, only after all the lamps are connected, the power supply is restored to check the correctness of the connection scheme. You can find out what the installation of spotlights includes, how the wiring is connected, what to look for when choosing them, in the video below.

Is this connection technology suitable for all luminaires?

Spotlights come in different types of installation: recessed, overhead pendant, the installation of each of them is slightly different. The technology for laying wires and identifying phases remains unchanged, some nuances are observed only in the method of attaching the lamp housing to the ceiling. The above described installation technology suitable for gypsum craton suspended ceiling by connecting recessed lighting.

The overhead/suspended method involves installing the luminaire on a special rail, which is fixed to the ceiling with screws. To do this, a small hole is made on the gypsum board with a drill, through which the power cable is pulled out. It is connected through the terminal blocks to the wires of the lamp. The luminaire is then attached to the ceiling and connected to the mounting rail through the side screws.

For a stretch ceiling, it is suitable to install spotlights in special plastic rings that are glued on both sides of the canvas to protect it from deformation. Then they continue to install lighting fixtures, which are additionally attached to the base ceiling with suspensions or on wooden planks.

In contact with

Today is an article about installing and connecting spotlights to the ceiling: theory and practice, subtleties and tricks.

There is not much to say about merit. First of all, it is an opportunity to realize any designer's idea and save space by hiding a light bulb and a lamp in any cavity, which are many in a modern apartment. For example, suspended, stretch, plasterboard ceilings, hollow partitions.

These lamps are called spotlights because they represent a point source of light (spot - spot). Unlike chandeliers, sconces, linear fluorescent lamps, which occupy a certain volume in the room.

The following types of lamps are used in spotlights:

• Halogen as well as incandescent. The cheapest lamps.
• Compact fluorescent (CFL).
• LED bulbs.

The last two types of lamps are most preferable, of the minuses they have - basically only the price, of the pros -

• low heat,
• low power consumption (power consumption),
• no need to think about transformers and,
• long service life, especially for LED.

The most common sockets for lamps for spotlights are with two pins (type G).

Preparing for installation - laying the wire.

If there are a lot of lamps and they are separated from each other at a small distance (40 - 50 cm), then it is enough to lay a wire to the first of them. This is done before the installation of the ceiling. Then, after installing the ceiling, the wire is pulled from point to point.

Which wire to choose? From the point of view of connection to socles - multi-core flexible. From the point of view of reliability and quality of installation - the same as in all wiring. Usually it is hard (or soft) copper, for example VVG-3x1.5, SHVVP or PVA.

If a step-down transformer is used, there is one important subtlety. With a low supply voltage for halogen lamps (usually 12 volts), the voltage drop across the wires is essential. For those who are interested in the details - article. And here I will say that the wire should have a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. Mm, and preferably 2.5. And the length of the wires to each light bulb must be the same so that the voltage drop is also the same.

In any case, it must be laid in such a way that later it would not be excruciatingly painful to look for ends at the connection stage. About the connection of spotlights will be discussed below.

Making a hole for a spotlight

In order to install a spotlight in a plastic or plasterboard ceiling, it is necessary to cut a hole of the appropriate diameter under it. The diameter of the hole for a spotlight is usually written on the packaging of the lamp, but it will not be superfluous to measure it once again.

Most popular hole sizes for spotlights - 75 mm and 60 mm. Accordingly, in order to cut a hole for a spotlight, you will need crowns with a diameter of 74-75 and 59-60 mm. Irregularities and distortions are acceptable, expanding the hole in some places by 3-5 mm.

A suspended ceiling of the Armstrong type does not require a crown - it is enough to use a clerical or penknife.

Stretch ceilings are a different story - there all the holes, their diameter and location are laid at the design stage of the ceiling. Thermal rings are installed to prevent overheating of the ceiling film from heating the lamp. Thermal rings also provide mechanical strength to the installation site of the lamp, I wrote about this on My Electrician in an article. It is necessary to immediately take into account the power of the lamps to be installed, their number, “crowding”.

This point needs to be discussed in detail. There was a case when a customer asked for 6 halogen lamps in a bathroom with an area of ​​about 2.5 m2. The company that made the ceiling assured that the thermal rings would prevent overheating, and halogens could be installed.

As a result, the ceiling had to be changed - the film around the rings melted after a few hours of burning the lamps :(. And put LED bulbs, although this is several times more expensive.

It happens that when cutting a hole for a lamp with a crown, there is such a failure:

It is then difficult to fix it without damaging the ceiling. Especially if the ceiling is curly, stepped and already painted.

In this case, up to 20% of the slot area can be closed, the lamp can already be installed.

It gets even worse:

Undoubtedly, such situations spoil the nerves, the instrument, the hands. Here you need to understand the design of drywall fasteners, be present at the installation stage, or enter into an agreement (labor) with drywall workers so that they put marks or make holes themselves.

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There is a smarter way - to use search magnet. This method is more versatile and preferred.

After that, the ceiling can be finished - painted, glued, etc.

Installation of spotlights in drywall

Installation must be carried out after painting or pasting the ceiling. This is a clean job, after us no one will correct the flaws.

We start by laying a wire in each hole.

Then we proceed to the actual installation of the lamp itself. It has special clips-antennae-springs that hold the lamp on the ceiling. It is necessary to bring them together, then insert the lamp into the hole in the ceiling, and then they will disperse, pressing the lamp.

All this is somehow inconvenient. In addition, you can damage an expensive ceiling, especially if the springs are strong, and the lamp did not get into the right place the first time, and you have to move it.

Therefore, I propose such a know-how, or a chip. The antennae are brought together “on the ground” with a technological piece of wire, which is then cut in the ceiling. Here is a photo:

Installation trick - technological jumper

Chip during installation - technological jumper

Such a device is convenient when many expensive lamps are placed in an expensive ceiling, when it is undesirable to scratch and smear it.

We carefully install the lamp in place, then we act with wire cutters and - click! - the lamp stands as it should without problems and effort.

The jumper is best made from a rigid insulated wire. Rigid uninsulated (as in the photo - this is a steel broach from the corrugation) can damage or short something.

Connecting spotlights

Connecting spotlights means connecting a base with flexible leads to our mounting wire.

Connecting spotlights - in progress

Of course, this connection scheme is not entirely correct - it is better to make all connections in the junction box, and connect a separate wire to each lamp. But the photo shows real life (connection with a loop), when the customer came up with such figured ceilings after laying the wires and installing the boxes.

So, we install the lamp, as shown above, and make connections using. I love these terminals very much, they are very convenient to connect different types of wires - copper + aluminum, thick + thin, flexible + rigid.

Connecting a spotlight - to the Vago terminal blocks

We connect the connector (cartridge) under the G5.3 base.

We dress the cartridge on the lamp, insert the lamp into the lamp, and fix it with a latch.

That's all. It is also worth saying that it is preferable to use step-down electronic transformers for halogen lamps and from burnout at the moment of switching on.

An example of a transformer that can be bought very cheaply in China is transformer 12V 60W. I recommend you just have to wait...

For halogen lamps can also be installed. This partially compensates for the shortcomings of halogens - the lamp burns out at the time of switching on, heating, high power consumption, short service life.

In conclusion - photographs illustrating the use of spotlights in ceilings.

Ceiling with spotlights. Photo 1

Ceiling with spotlights. Photo 2 (this is the ceiling))

If you need an electrician and you are in Taganrog - ready. Contact me for a free phone consultation.

That's all I wanted and could tell about installation of spotlights. If something is not clear or there is something to add - ask and write in the comments. If you are interested in what I will publish on the SamElectric blog next - subscribe to receive new articles.

Spot lighting is the best choice for rooms with false ceilings. Installing spotlights will provide additional light and effectively emphasize the interior of your apartment.

Modern design solutions are not complete without the use of this fashionable element. In addition to enhancing lighting, spotlights are used as lighting in furniture and decorative structures.

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Choice of luminaire model

Recessed luminaires are distinguished by design:

• Swivel. In this form, a more complex design is provided, which to a certain extent makes their installation more troublesome. But at the same time they have a significant advantage - the ability to focus the rays to a certain point. There are even rotary overhead models equipped with a micromotor for remote control.
• Fixed lamps arranged quite simply. In the case of choosing stationary models, the installation of spotlights in drywall does not cause any particular difficulties. True, such a light bulb will shine only in one direction, so its placement should be carefully considered.

Today, there is also a huge selection of decorative overlays that hide the gap between the light bulb and the edge of the surface. These characteristics do not affect the technical capabilities, so you can choose according to individual preferences and the interior of the room.

When purchasing spotlights, you also have to choose lamps for them. It can be:

— traditional incandescent lamps

— halogen lamps

— fluorescent lamps.

A competent choice of a light source is important, since not only the consumption of electricity, but also the spectrum of rays produced depends on it. In addition, the light bulb is selected according to the parameters of the lamp itself.

Note!

The size of devices with incandescent lamps can reach 12 cm, they should only be installed on large ceilings.

Fluorescent and LED elements are designed for compact designs that are easily hidden in the 6 cm ceiling. The cost of such devices is higher, but the difference cannot be called critical. And the costs are more than offset by very low energy consumption. Experts recommend purchasing lamps with a mirror coating, which produce a “soft”, comfortable light for the eyes and are not subject to overheating.

Ceiling mounting principle

Self-installation of fixtures: rules, stages of work

1. Planning and placement

Deciding to decorate the interior with built-in lighting without the help of specialists, first of all, you need to correctly determine the location of the spotlights on the ceiling. You need to place them on the ceiling in rows. The main task is to achieve uniform and efficient lighting. To do this, you must adhere to the following parameters:

- the distance between the rows of lamps should not exceed 1 meter;

- in a row, the fixtures should be separated by an interval of up to 1.5 m;

- the distance from the wall should be no more than 60 cm.

You need to take into account the presence of other light sources in the room. For example, when it is planned to hang a chandelier in the center of the ceiling, spotlights can only be placed along the perimeter of the box.

Work on the installation of built-in lighting is carried out at the stage of ceiling installation. On the ceiling, you must first mark the location of the fixtures. It is important that the distance from them to the metal profiles of the frame is more than 25 cm.

Spot lighting is successfully used for zoning space. For this purpose, the following scheme is used: lamps are placed in functional areas and in areas where additional lighting is needed.

According to the designers, the most effective and productive is the placement of devices in a checkerboard pattern. If two to four light bulbs are usually enough to illuminate shelves or plasterboard decor, then a decent amount of them will be needed for ceiling decoration. In order for recessed lighting to look harmonious, it is preferable to install fixtures of the same design and color in the same room.

1. Wiring

The most critical stage in the entire process is. This work is carried out in parallel with the manufacture of a plasterboard ceiling frame. For convenience, it is better to make a drawing of all future wiring indicating all the elements: wires, switches, light bulbs, transformers. The scheme for connecting spotlights is identical to that used in connecting standard lighting equipment: a power source (220v), a switch and the device itself. To illuminate a plasterboard wall, you need to make additional wiring on the wall, while each device has its own wire.

Accession and connection of cables is carried out by special terminal blocks and bolted connections. The ideal mounting method is copper-tinned sleeves. All areas where wires are connected should be protected with insulating tape.

As for the reliability of the wires, it is worth using a soft stranded type to connect fixtures. For the overall system, hard or soft copper types are suitable: VVG-3x1.5 and ShVVP. When luminaires are connected using terminal blocks, the first type is more acceptable.

As a safety measure, the wiring must be protected from external influences by enclosing it in special corrugated plastic pipes.

Note!

Additionally, clamps for fixing pipes can be installed on the frame elements.

In the absence of experience in self-laying electrical wiring, it is better to reinforce the recommendations by studying the corresponding video lesson.

1. Hole preparation for fixtures

When you have already decided how to arrange future fixtures, and have made the wiring, you can proceed to a simpler step - preparing the holes. Before starting this procedure, you must read the instructions for the lamp, which should contain information about the desired hole diameter. For insurance, it is better to measure the size yourself. Traditionally, the hole diameter is 65 or 75mm. For their drilling, they are used with a special cutter for drywall.

It is much easier to make holes in the drywall sheet when it is not yet fixed to the ceiling or box. In this case, the chance of an accurate hit is higher. If you have to drill in already reinforced sheets, experts advise checking the location of the metal frame with a magnet so as not to get into it.

After all the inputs for the spotlights are formed, and the box is finally made, you can proceed to the finishing work. All intended surface finishing must be done before connecting the spotlights.

Lamp installation

1. Connecting fixtures

When the finishing stage of finishing the drywall is completed, it's time to start installing and connecting the fixtures. Before starting work, be sure to make sure that there is no voltage in the network.

First, the cable loops provided for connection to the light bulbs are brought out through the prepared holes. Next, the loops need to be cut at the bend and each wire should be exposed on each side by about 10-15mm. One end of the wire is connected to the terminal of the device, and the other is screwed to the power cable. The luminaire is marked, where L is the phase, N is zero, and PE is ground. According to this scheme, the connection must be made.
When all the elements of the circuit are installed, it's time to connect the main wire to the junction box and to the switch. LED devices must be connected to a step-down power supply. Next - check how you managed to connect spotlights with your own hands. If the lighting works, you can proceed to the final stage.

Connected light

1. Installation of fixtures

Insert the lamp housing into the prepared hole. Usually, the fastening mechanism of modern models consists of two brackets located on the sides. These staples (antennae) just need to be brought together and inserted into the drywall, preventing the wires from getting under the clamps. After entering, the spring mechanism itself will spread the staples to the sides, so the device will fit snugly against the edge.

As a rule, the installation of the device itself does not cause difficulties. In some cases, the design of the mount does not allow it to be freely inserted into the hole. Then you have to resort to a little trick: connecting the brackets, tighten them with a piece of wire. To avoid a short circuit, insulated hard wire must be used. The antennae tied together can be easily inserted into the cell, then simply cut the wire with wire cutters and push the device to the end.

Once you have successfully installed the housing, you can insert the light bulb into the socket. Now it's just a decorative overlay. This is just the part that will be visible from the outside, and with the help of which it is easy to hide the joints and possible defects that occurred during the drilling of the web.

This was the last procedure. Having completed it, it is only necessary to check the viability of the manufactured system. And, if everything is in order, you can safely call your loved ones to show off the magnificence created by your own hands.

Do-it-yourself installation of spotlights video:

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In a plasterboard suspended ceiling, spotlights play not only a practical role. With their help, you can create a harmonious design in the room, divide the room into zones, and illuminate hard-to-reach areas. Moreover, the market today offers a wide variety of models.

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Installation of plasterboard suspended ceilings "eats" part of the height of the room. Compensate for it with the help of properly organized lighting. However, this is not the only reason why various types of lamps are more often mounted in suspended structures than traditional stationary chandeliers. Such lighting allows you to zone the room and focus on individual elements of decor.

Types of fixtures for plasterboard suspended ceilings

• Point. The most common type. The market offers many models that differ in design, voltage type and type of lamps. Most often used for zoning a room.
• LED. Low power consumption, durable. They are mainly used to create an accent on some decorative elements, since they are not used as an independent source of lighting due to low power.
• fiber optic. Fireproof, differ in original appearance. Used to implement various design ideas. They won't be cheap, but they will last a relatively long time.

• Embedded. They can be equipped with a special swivel mechanism. If not, then the illumination radius is usually 30 degrees. There are open and closed models. The latter, as a rule, have a higher class of protection against dust and moisture.
• Suspended. Small shades that are mounted on a pre-prepared mortgage profile.

Varieties of lamps for fixtures in plasterboard ceiling

You can apply:

1. Incandescent lamps. Classic models of lamps operating from 220 V. They are connected in a standard way and are of low cost. To improve light perception, it is permissible to use a dimmer. The main disadvantage of the products is their large size. For their installation, an additional 7-8 cm of ceiling height is required, which is categorically unacceptable in some rooms. In addition, excessive overheating of the case is possible, therefore it is recommended to take additional safety measures.
2. Fluorescent. They are relatively energy efficient. Among the disadvantages are the overall design and the need for open use for sufficient light scattering. It is impossible to connect a dimmer to such lamps.
3. Halogen. The most common models. They are economical, compact (height 3-4 cm), work with a step-down transformer from a 12 V network, and have an interesting light spectrum. In operation, the use of a dimmer is possible.
4. LED. They consume a minimum amount of electricity, can emit light fluxes of different colors, and are fireproof. They are small in size but high in cost.

Recommendations for choosing lighting equipment for plasterboard ceilings

The first shows the degree of protection against dust, where "0" - no protection, and "6" - full protection. The second digit indicates moisture resistance, where "0" - no protection, and "8" - installation under water is possible.

For rooms with high humidity, where moisture-resistant sheets are installed, devices with a protection class of IP 42 are suitable. For example, in the kitchen, such a lamp will be protected from dust and moisture.

Some manufacturers make models with special inserts to diffuse light. Well-known companies even use crystal for this purpose. However, this product is not cheap.

Electrical wires for connecting fixtures are used with a cross section of 1.5 cm 2.

As for the step-down transformer, there are two types:

• Induction. Overall, inexpensive, weighs 2 kg, has a long service life.
• Electronic. It is relatively more expensive, and the service life is almost half as long. The main advantage is compactness.

It is important to choose the power of the transformer with a margin of 20-30%. This will significantly extend its service life.

Rules for drawing up a lighting scheme for a plasterboard ceiling

To do this, you must follow the following rules:

1. If you decide to arrange the bulbs in rows, then the distance between the lines should be less than 1 meter, and to the wall - less than 0.6-0.8 meters. Otherwise, the devices will illuminate the walls, not the room.
2. The symmetrical arrangement of fixtures is used more often than others, especially if you do not have special design skills and want to achieve uniform lighting.
3. The distance between the lamps depends on their diameter. For models up to 10 cm, you need to maintain a segment of about one meter. If the diameter of the device is 15 cm, then the distance is increased to 1.7 meters.

Installation of a recessed spotlight in a plasterboard ceiling

After creating a schematic drawing, we work as follows:

• We install a frame of guides and ceiling profiles according to the level of the suspended structure. We make sure that the distance to the base coat is sufficient to accommodate the selected lamp.
• We fix the lighting box. Please note that it should be located in an easily accessible area.
• We put all the wiring from the lighting box into a special corrugated sleeve made of non-combustible plastic.
• Install the switch. Please note that it should open only the phase wire.
• We fix the sleeve to the ceiling with the help of special fasteners. It is important that the wires do not come into contact with the metal profile during insulation breakdown.
• If there are sections of wires with twists, they are placed in a copper sleeve and additionally insulated.
• At the locations of recessed fixtures for plasterboard ceilings, we draw wire conclusions. It is not advisable to make a serial connection. This may cause the terminal block of the first lamp to be overloaded.
• We sheathe the frame with drywall. At the location of the lamp, we make a hole with a drill with a special crown, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the lamp body.
• We pull out the wire and connect it to the device. For this, either special fasteners or a terminal block are used. We carefully monitor that there are no kinks on the wires.
• We fix the housing in the hole with springs.
• We insert the selected lamp and, if necessary, attach the housing protection.
• Repeat the process for connecting each lamp.

1. We clean 0.5 cm of insulation on each side of the wires.
2. We insert the stripped ends into the terminal blocks on the transformer and the lamp.
3. We completely tighten the screws and additionally isolate the ends of the wires.
4. We connect to the terminal block for 220 V.

Please note that when screwing the lamp, it is advisable to work with gloves so as not to leave fingerprints on the surface of the product.

Attaching pendant lights to a plasterboard ceiling

Fastening is carried out as follows:

• We draw up a diagram of the suspended structure and the installation location of the devices.
• We install guides and ceiling profiles, fix the jumpers.
• We attach a special mortgage profile to the suspension in the place where the lamp is equipped.
• We equip lighting wiring and lay wires in the corrugated sleeve.
• We draw conclusions for devices in the form of a loop 20-30 cm long.
• We sheathe the structure with drywall.
• At the installation site of the fixtures in the plasterboard ceiling, we drill holes with a crown.
• We pull out the wires and connect to the ceiling.
• We fix the product to the mortgage profile with special clamps.
• We install a decorative plug between the coating and the device.

If the weight of the structure is less than 2 kg, then it can be attached to the sheet using a butterfly dowel.

Installing a fiber optic luminaire in a plasterboard ceiling

The installation process is carried out in the following order:

1. We mark the surface and assemble the frame from metal profiles.
2. Separately, we make a ceiling niche in which the projector will be located. It is recommended to do it near the installation site of the lamp.
3. We sheathe the structure with drywall. At the place of its installation, we mark up a sheet that has not yet been fixed and drill a lot of holes with a diameter of 0.5-1 cm in a circle. The area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe circle should be less than 50% of the sheet area. It is recommended to keep a distance of 2-2.5 cm between the holes.
4. We connect bundles of fiber optic strands to the projector. If necessary, we use special lenses and nozzles to create various lighting effects.
5. We pass the optical fiber through the holes made and pull it to an arbitrary length, which depends on the height of the ceilings. If possible, the lamp can be equipped even to the floor.

The main thing is not to kink the threads so as not to damage them.