A fairly common situation is when the established number of sockets in a particular room of the apartment is not enough to simultaneously connect all the necessary household electrical appliances to the network. In this regard, you have to connect one or more electrical appliances to the network one by one, which is not very convenient and ordinary household chores are delayed in time. How to solve this problem?

If the wiring is quite old and is in unsatisfactory technical condition, then it is necessary to replace it, installing new wiring with the number of plug sockets necessary for convenient operation. But this option, as a rule, is combined with a major renovation of an apartment or private house, since when completely replacing the electrical wiring, it will be necessary to violate the integrity of the finishing coating of the walls and ceiling throughout the home.

If major repairs are not planned in the near future, then the most optimal and least expensive option is to install an additional outlet or several outlets in a particular room. Also, this option will be relevant for the case if the electrical wiring is in normal technical condition or when a complete replacement of the apartment electrics was carried out relatively recently. In this article, we will consider in detail the question of how to install and connect an additional outlet to the electrical wiring.

Choosing the method of installing the socket and installing the cable

If you need to install an additional outlet, first of all you need to decide what type of outlet to choose - external or internal installation, that is, surface-mounted or built-in. The same applies to the cable from the outlet to the electrical wiring section to which it will be connected - in this case, you can also choose a hidden or open method of installing the cable. Which method of installing the socket and laying the cable should I choose?

A built-in socket, as well as a hidden electrical wiring line, is the most acceptable option from an aesthetic point of view. But it should be taken into account that in order to lay a new hidden wiring line, as well as install a built-in socket, it will be necessary to groove the wall and make a hole for the mounting box. This will create a lot of dust and dirt, which is unacceptable in a residential apartment or house. Also, when installing hidden electrical wiring, the finishing coating of the wall will be damaged.

While installing the cable in an open manner, as well as surface-mounted sockets, allows you to perform the work with the least labor costs, with a minimum amount of dust and dirt, and the finishing coating of the wall where it is planned to lay the cable and install the new socket will not be damaged. But in this case, the mounted section of electrical wiring will be visible, which is not very aesthetically pleasing.

In this case, when choosing a cable installation method and choosing a socket type, you must choose the most optimal option, depending on the relative arrangement of interior elements in the room. For example, if a section of electrical wiring will pass behind some element of the interior, then it is more advisable to choose the simplest method - the external method of installing electrical wiring, since it will not be visible anyway.

If the walls are finished with plasterboard, the installation of hidden electrical wiring elements is greatly simplified. To install the socket in this case, you need to select an empty opening between the profiles mounted on the wall and make a hole for the mounting box.

If the socket is located under the distribution box, then the wiring line wire can be laid in the void between the profiles. Or stretch the wire down, and at the bottom lay the wire in a cable channel for open electrical wiring or in a plinth, which structurally has a channel for laying cables. There are many options - it all depends on local conditions and personal preferences.

The next, most important stage is choosing the most optimal way to connect an additional outlet to one of the sections of the existing electrical wiring. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the expected load that will be plugged into the new outlet being installed and, based on this data, choose one of the connection methods discussed below.

Connection from another outlet (daisy chain)

Let's consider the first and simplest method. This method involves connecting a cable to a new additional outlet from an outlet already in the room. This method can be used only if it is necessary to connect an additional outlet to power a small load.

In this case, we mean such a load value that, in total with the load of the outlet from which the connection is planned, will not exceed the permissible value for the cable and other electrical wiring elements supplying the first outlet. That is, you can use a cable to connect one outlet from another, provided that the total load of these two outlets does not exceed what is permissible for a given section of electrical wiring.

In this case, it is also necessary to remember that when connecting an additional socket with a cable, the total load current of both sockets will flow through the contact terminals of the first socket. Therefore, it is impossible for the total load of two outlets to exceed the permissible load for the first outlet.

For example, if the total load of two outlets is 20 A, then for a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters. mm, feeding the first socket, this load will be lower than the rated one, but for the first socket, the permissible current for which is no more than 16 A, this load will be unacceptable and the socket will quickly fail if both sockets are used simultaneously.

Connection from distribution box

The next method is to connect an additional outlet in the nearest junction box. Before connecting an outlet from an existing distribution box, you must make sure that the section of electrical wiring feeding the given distribution box has sufficient load capacity to connect the new outlet.

For example, you need to connect an additional socket to power a 10 A load. In the nearest distribution box, two sockets with a total capacity of 14 A are already connected. The cable that is laid from the home distribution panel to this distribution box has a cross-section of 4 sq. mm. Currently, a circuit breaker with a rated current of 16 A is installed to protect this wiring line.

When installing a new socket, the total load of the three sockets will be 24 A. For the cable that powers this junction box from the panel, such a load is permissible. That is, this option for connecting the outlet is allowed. But it should be taken into account that if the load on this section of the wiring increases, it will be necessary to replace the circuit breaker from 16 to 25 A. Such a circuit breaker will protect the cable from overload, but the sockets will not be fully protected, since the rated current of each socket is 16 A, and the rated one for the circuit breaker is 25 A.

Direct connection from the main distribution panel

The third method involves directly connecting an additional outlet from the main distribution panel of the apartment. This method is relevant for connecting powerful electrical appliances, as well as for cases where the load capacity of a particular section of electrical wiring or the installed electrical wiring as a whole does not allow connecting an additional outlet using one of the methods discussed above - from a junction box or from another outlet.

The main advantage of direct connection of the socket from the distribution panel is high reliability, which is due, firstly, to the absence of intermediate contact connections, and secondly, reliable protection, since to protect this area an individual circuit breaker is installed, selected taking into account the permissible currents for all elements this wiring line.

In all cases, you must select the required cable cross-section to connect an additional socket. As a rule, a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters is selected to power regular outlets. mm. But if we are talking about connecting a powerful household electrical appliance (direct connection from the panel), then in this case the cable cross-section must be selected based on the load of this electrical appliance, since 2.5 sq. mm may not be enough.

Installing and connecting an additional outlet

When a suitable method for connecting a new outlet has been selected and its location has been determined, we carry out preparatory work. If a hidden method of laying the cable and installing a hidden socket is chosen, then the groove and space for the mounting box for the new socket are prepared. In the case of an open method of laying electrical wiring, a cable channel for a new cable is installed, and fasteners for a surface-mounted socket are installed.

The final stage is laying the cable, installing a new socket and connecting the cable, depending on the chosen option - in the panel, in the junction box or with a cable from another socket.

It should be noted that before starting work on installing a new section of electrical wiring and socket, you must make sure that the existing cable of another electrical wiring line does not pass through the intended location for laying the cable and installing the socket. It is also necessary to take into account the convenience of the location of the new socket and the laid cable, so that in the future, if it is necessary to mount any interior elements on the wall, the installed socket will not interfere or so as not to damage the mounted cable.

Immediately before connecting the cable, it is necessary to take safety measures, that is, turn off the power to the section of the electrical wiring where the connection work will be performed.

If the additional socket is connected in a distribution box, then it must be taken into account that the load will be increased and, accordingly, the existing connectors may not be designed for this load. Accordingly, it is necessary to purchase new connectors for the rated current, taking into account the new load in this junction box, or choose another method of connecting conductors that will ensure sufficient reliability of the contact connections. For example, you can connect conductors by soldering or welding.

Andrey Povny

One of the main electrical elements in an apartment or house is a socket. Without it, it is difficult to connect a household appliance to the network. Every owner should know and also be able to install it, since the process is quite simple and can be mastered by anyone without special skills. The ability to use simple tools is enough here. In addition, it is necessary to have a basic understanding of electrical safety.

Preparation

Before making sockets in the apartment, you need to draw up a diagram that should indicate:

• installation location;
• load power and number of connections;
• wiring supply;
• connection method.

The places where the sockets will be installed depend on the location of the electricity consumers: TV, computer, refrigerator, washing machine, electric stove, etc. Where many pieces of equipment are concentrated, it is advisable to install socket blocks (up to 5 pieces). It is necessary to ensure the convenience of connecting temporary devices: power tools, vacuum cleaners, chargers for gadgets. At high humidity, sockets are used with connection through an RCD from the control panel. An indicator that the sockets in the rooms are installed correctly is the absence of extension cords and tees.

Socket device

To reduce connection problems, you should adhere to the same standard for sockets. Previously, domestic products of type C5 were installed in apartments, where there was no grounding, and the diameter of the pins was 4 mm. Now it has been completely replaced by a Euro socket C6 with a 4.8 mm connector (German standard). Its power can reach several kilowatts. The basis of the socket is a contact block, which includes the following elements:

1. Identical phase and neutral contacts.
2. Ground contact located separately.
3. Plastic or ceramic base (block).
4. Fastening feet.
5. Terminals for connecting wires to contacts.

Sockets are available in indoor and outdoor versions. The first is installed in the socket box, and the second is installed through the substrate on the wall surface.

Protection of sockets from external influences

Protection of sockets from environmental influences is classified according to European standards. Its degree is indicated by IP with two digits. The first means resistance to dust and solid objects. If it is 0, then the model is not protected in any way. The maximum level is expressed as 6. This means that dust and solid particles cannot get inside. The second digit (from 0 to 8) indicates the degree of protection against liquid ingress. Here, complete moisture insulation is ensured at a value of 8. Maximum protection should not always be strived for. Already with the number 5, complete moisture insulation in domestic conditions is achieved.

Installation Rules

It is recommended to install sockets at a height of 80 cm. It is possible lower, but not less than 30 cm. If there is protection from moisture and an RCD is used, the installation height can be reduced. Nowadays even the baseboard is made with a socket if the wiring is done through it. So, it is convenient to connect floor-standing devices. In this case, there is no need to groove the walls. In children's sockets along with switches are installed at a height of 150-170 cm so that children cannot reach them. It is customary for electricians to place the phase contact in the socket on the window side. If the wall is without it, the phase is on the left when you stand facing the socket.

During installation, a small supply of wire is left in case of thermal deformation. The cable is passed under the terminal block. If the thickness is large, the outer shell is removed. If wires are routed around the block, the phase is carried out separately. It is allowed to insert two wires into the terminal when creating a group or module. Connecting wires through the socket to other stationary consumers is not allowed. For this purpose, a socket module with a built-in terminal block is used.

Tools and materials for working with electrical fittings

For work you will need the following tools:

• Voltage indicator.
• Straight and Phillips screwdrivers.
• Pliers with insulated handles.
• Side cutters.
• Knife for installation.
• Cotton and vinyl insulating tape.
• Type C insulating caps.
• Cold solder.
• Silicone sealant.
• Electric drill with attachments for drilling drywall or concrete.
• Hammer.
• Dowels.

Basic operating techniques

If you are thinking about how to make a socket, every little detail will be important to you. One of them is to remove the insulation, which should be done by biting it with side cutters without touching the copper. It is important to develop a skill here so as not to leave a bite on the metal, where corrosion and local heating from the load subsequently occur. For a beginner, a puller-plier with adjustment to the diameter of the wire is a good choice.

Sockets often have to be moved to another location. To do this you have to splice the wires. Despite the fact that modern installation methods do not recommend doing this, there is a reliable way to create such a connection. It is necessary to remove the insulation from the ends of the wires and twist them together with pliers. Then apply cold solder to the twist and immediately put on the insulating cap. After the paste has hardened, the sealant is squeezed into the socket. The problem - how to make sockets correctly - is first solved depending on whether it is installed in a wall or in a plasterboard partition.

Installing a hidden socket in concrete

Before installing the socket, you should first carry out the electrical wiring. When replacing an old outlet, you can use the wires already connected. Most often, for new wiring, you need to cut a groove in the wall. The wire is laid in it and sealed with alabaster or cement.

How to make a socket in a wall made of concrete or brick? Using a crown, a hole is selected for the socket box. To install it along the plane of the wall, drilling is done with a margin of depth. The hole is filled with a solution of gypsum or alabaster. The socket box is inserted into it and aligned. While the solution is liquid, a pair of “flea beetles” are screwed into it. It is important not to forget to thread the cable through the socket.

How to make a socket hole if a block of several pieces is installed? Drilling with a crown is also performed here, but precise markings must be made first. The wall for the block can be tapped in the same way as for wiring.

How to make a socket at home in a plasterboard partition?

They have a distinctive feature: they have sliding or rotating stops. The installation technology is simpler than in concrete:

1. First of all, the drywall should be drilled. The problem (how to make a hole for a socket in a gypsum board with a diameter of 67 mm) is solved very simply, since the material is easy to process. A fine-tooth saw will do here.
2. The cable is pulled through the hole and pulled through the socket box, which is installed in place and fixed.
3. The wires are stripped and inserted into the terminals.
4. The block is placed in the socket box and secured with claws.
5. Install the cover and check how it fits against the wall. If necessary, the foot screws are loosened and tightened again after adjusting the position of the shoe.

Location of sockets in the apartment

The question of how to make an outlet is important for any room in the house. Each room has its own specifics. And this must be taken into account when installing electrical accessories. Before making a sketch, make a sketch in advance, taking into account the placement of furniture and electrical appliances. The main rule for determining the number of outlets is that there should be at least 20-25% more of them than stationary and permanently connected consumers. Thus, for 10 devices there are approximately 12-13 sockets. In this case, additional tees and extensions will not be needed.

For places where moisture and steam can enter, a degree of protection of at least IP 44 is required. The same applies to the bathroom. In models to which electrical appliances are not constantly connected, plastic curtains for contacts are needed. Note! The total power of devices connected to one outlet should not exceed the nominal value. If it is designed for 2.5 kW, then it cannot simultaneously include a 1 kW microwave and a 2 kW electric kettle. In places where office equipment is connected in an office or a group of appliances in the kitchen, blocks are used. The module sockets are connected by a cable - parallel to each other and with a common power supply. To do this, you can use special combs or a continuous wire, stripped at the contacts with the terminals. Grounding is provided separately to each outlet. Otherwise, all leakage currents will accumulate at the first of them.

Switch socket

The power lines to lights and outlets are usually separated. If you need to install an additional connector and not conduct wiring from the panel, you need to know how to make a socket from a switch. The connection is made in one socket is connected to the neutral and power phase. Zero is supplied directly to the lamp. The phase is connected through the switch to its other terminal. Thus, the outlet is constantly supplied with voltage, and the switch operates independently of it.

Connecting the left socket

Sometimes it becomes necessary to connect the welding machine to the network at the dacha. To do this, you need to know how to bypass a low-power meter, and how to make a left socket into which you can connect a powerful load. To do this, connect to the power input in an inconspicuous place in front of the control device. Here, an additional circuit breaker should be installed for the load. Otherwise, a fire may occur if there is a short circuit or the current exceeds the nominal value.

If the load is small, craftsmen install the left socket after the meter and connect the phase with the “collective farm” zero to it. For example, from a metal water pipe. Then, when electricity is supplied, the meter will not rotate. But when the load is connected, voltage appears at the homemade zero, which poses a danger to life. In addition, electricians easily find such tricks, and this can lead to a considerable fine.

Conclusion

If you follow all the installation rules, you can install the outlet at home yourself. As you can see, it's not that difficult. In this case, you should know how to make a socket, as well as pre-select all the necessary tools and materials. Solving complex problems of installing electrical accessories should be trusted to professionals.

Installing an indoor outlet

It must be said right away that all sockets are divided into internal and external. Their operating principle is the same. The difference between them is that external sockets are installed directly on the wall, and internal ones - in boxes (socket boxes), which are “hidden” in the wall.

First of all, for safety reasons, it is necessary Disconnect all electrical wiring in the apartment from the power supply. We are talking about automatic switches in the electrical panel, which is usually located in the hallway of the apartment or on the landing.

If you are left completely without electricity in your home, you may need to lighting in the workplace. It’s good if there is enough daylight, but in the dark you need to think about alternative lighting sources, for example, a flashlight may come in handy.

Necessarily! Additionally, use a multimeter or an indicator screwdriver to make sure that there is no voltage in the outlet.

Prepare your tools:

• Wire cutters
• Level
• Pliers
• Screwdriver
• Pencil

How to connect an outlet

For convenience, the wires for the socket should protrude 50 - 80 mm. To ensure that the future socket stands level, Use the level periodically.

1. First, mark with a pencil the place where the socket will stand, after placing it in a box or a special recess (if you decide to install the socket without a box).

2. Carefully pull out the wires, the ends of which are stripped of insulation on 10 mm. Please note that the wires should not be intertwined.

3. We are considering connecting a modern socket with three wires, one of which is the ground wire, the second is the phase, and the third is the neutral wire.

The socket with an internal block has three terminals. It is to these three terminals that you need to connect the three wires of the socket.

4. The internal socket block has mounting screws on the front side. If you screw in these screws one by one with a screwdriver, the external tabs on the socket will begin to move apart and rest against the plastic box or directly against the wall (depending on what exactly you have).

Thus, we attach the internal block according to the previously made markings.

Attention! The mounting screws on the front side of the internal block of the socket should be screwed in one at a time, then the entire structure will be secured evenly.

Modern sockets are increasingly less often made on the basis of the above-described fixing tabs. Recently, preference has been given to sockets, the housing of which is fixed to an internal plastic box.

5. All that now needs to be done is to snap the protective frame or socket body into place, and tighten the screws, if any.

Determine phase, neutral and grounding

It is difficult for a person who does not understand electricity to understand which of the three wires should be connected to the outlet, and attaching contacts at random is fraught with unpleasant consequences. However, in reality this is a fairly simple task, which we will help solve.

First of all, it wouldn’t hurt to tell the theory briefly and simply. We have the entire electrical wiring system from which apartments and residential buildings are powered three-phase.

Typically the voltage between two phases is 380 volts and this is line voltage. But our sockets still have 220 volts, why? For this you need a neutral wire. Taking one phase with a neutral wire, between the phases there will be a potential difference of 220 volts, which is the phase voltage.

To put it quite simply, then Each apartment has one zero and one phase.

Determining the phase with an indicator screwdriver

This method is only appropriate if your outlet has a only two wires.

1. First, you need to de-energize your apartment (house) by turning off the circuit breakers in the switchboard.

2. We separate the wires, stripped of insulation, from each other so that they do not touch, which will help prevent short circuits.

3. Now we turn the circuit breakers back on, thereby supplying current to our wiring.

4. Now we directly determine the phase wire. Taking the indicator screwdriver by the small metal part of the handle, we touch the wire with the working (also metal) part.

When the light in the screwdriver comes on, it means that it is phase wire, and if the light does not light, then this wire is neutral.

Determining phase with a multimeter

However, with three wires available for the socket, only an indicator screwdriver is not suitable. For this you need a device multimeter, with which we can determine where the ground, zero and phase are.

We have already found out where the phase wire is using an indicator screwdriver. But the phase can be determined without an indicator screwdriver using a multimeter. To do this, you need to select range measurements on the multimeter 220 volts and above and connect two probes to the sockets "V" and "COM".

We take the probe connected to the socket "V", and apply it alternately to the three existing wires. When you touch a phase, the device will show 8-15 volts, and when touching zero or ground, the multimeter generally won't react.

1. We take a multimeter and switch it to the voltage measurement range of 220 volts or higher.

2. With one multimeter probe we clamp the phase (and we already know where exactly this wire is), and with the other one of the remaining two wires.

3. We observe and remember the value that our multimeter is currently showing.

4. Now, leaving one probe on the phase, with the other we clamp the third wire and also record the value that the measuring device showed.

If we touch zero and phase at the same time, then the multimeter shows the mains voltage 220 volt(a small run-up is acceptable). And if we touch ground and phase, then the value should beless previous one.

Installing an outdoor outlet

In fact outdoor socket It is very easy to install and requires minimal effort from you.

Such sockets are usually used in rooms where all wiring is external. In addition, this method of electrical wiring is recommended for use in structures made of materials that can easily ignite (for example, wood).

The disadvantage of external sockets is, first of all, in an unaesthetic way, since all the wiring is visible. However, when there is a choice between life safety and aesthetic appearance, it is better to choose the first option. After all, problem areas, if any, appear, are clearly visible on this electrical wiring.

So, installing an outdoor socket.

1. We disassemble the housing, unscrewing the fastening bolts, and remove it.

2. Using screws, we screw the socket body to the surface on which dowels must be prepared in advance, or, if it is, for example, a wooden surface, then you can screw in ordinary self-tapping screws. It’s better to play it safe and place a material between the outlet and the surface that cannot burn (gypsum plaster, paronite).

3. Connect the outlet to the power supply. You can find out more about this above in the table of contents “How to connect an outlet.”

4. Once you have connected the wires, you can screw the front part to the socket body.

How to change the socket

A situation in which the electrical outlet fails, quite common. Then the question may arise "How to change an old socket to a new one with your own hands?" Next we will talk about this in detail.

We will consider the most hopeless case: when the spacer legs are loose, the wires are not fastened well, and the socket has a burnt appearance. In general, we completely change the outlet.

You will need:

• Phase indicator
• crosshead screwdriver
• Straight screwdriver
• New socket
• Podzetnik (plastic box into which the inner side of the socket is attached)
• Small spatula
• Wire cutters
• Level.

1. We completely de-energize the entire apartment from the power supply using automatic switches.

2. We remove the old socket. To do this, you need to unscrew the bolt in it, which is usually located in the center, with a straight or Phillips screwdriver, depending on the type of head of this bolt.

3. Now make sure that the contacts have definitely been de-energized using the indicator. You should have one neutral wire and the other phase wire. If the socket has voltage, then by touching the phase wire with the indicator, the light bulb on it will light up.

If the light bulb does not light up when you touch these two wires, then the socket is completely de-energized and you can touch the line without fear.

5. In the same way, loosen the bolts of the socket legs and remove it completely.

6. If the socket being replaced was without a plastic box (socket box), then this is incorrect, so we will install a new socket box. If the hole in the wall is not deep enough for a new socket box, we trim its back part.

However, if the plastic box does not fit on the sides, then the hole in the wall should be expanded directly.

Once your socket box fits perfectly into its place, you need to fix it. It is better to do this with gypsum mixtures (for example, using putty).

For your information! It is better not to use a metal socket box, as it is inconvenient to use.

Therefore, if the old socket was attached to a metal socket, then before installing a new socket, you should remove the old metal one, but this must be done as carefully as possible, without destroying the walls.

7. To prepare the mixture you will need about 100 g of putty. Mix the putty with water to a state in which the socket box will adhere even to the putty solution that has not yet dried.

8. So, our solution is already ready. Now, using a small spatula, apply the solution evenly into the hole.

9. We insert the socket box into the hole using fresh putty.

10. We seal all existing cracks and damage in the wall with mortar.

11. After this, you need to wait until the solution dries completely. Considering the small amount of putty, it will not take more than a day to dry.

12. Once the putty is dry, you can continue. We remove the insulation of the wires using wire cutters approximately by 1 cm.

If the length of the wire is excessive, then it is better to hide this wire in our plastic box rather than shorten it.

If the wire is not long enough, you can attach a small new piece to it. However, you should know that aluminum wires are extended using a terminal block. Copper wires are simply twisted, and then soldered and the connection is insulated.

13. We are completing our socket replacement. We insert the bare wires into the inside of the socket and secure them with bolts.

Typically, the neutral wire is connected to the left contact, and the phase wire is connected to the right contact. For convenience, they can be marked in advance with a marker.

14. Now we insert the socket into the socket box, align it and fix it with the upper and lower screws. To prevent the socket from twisting, screw in the mounting screws one at a time until they are securely fixed.

15. Finally, install the panel cover. As a rule, such a cover has one central bolt, which needs to be tightened, but do not overdo it, as you can damage the thread.

16. In order to make sure that the socket replacement is carried out correctly, insert the electrical plug of any electrical appliance into it and immediately pull it out. If the socket does not move, holding firmly in its place, then everything is done correctly.

17. We restore power supply in the apartment (house). The socket replacement is complete.

But! It is worth mentioning the most common breakdown, which can be repaired quite simply. We are talking about the legs of the indoor unit moving out of their place if you do not hold the socket while pulling out the electrical plug. Due to such a breakdown, a short circuit may occur in the electrical circuit, which can ultimately lead to a fire.

All that needs to be done in this case is to disassemble the front part of the socket body, loosen the tabs by unscrewing the bolts, insert the inner part of the socket into place and fix the tabs by screwing the bolts back.

In addition, we highly recommend for the legs of the inside of the socket make indentations if the paws just rest against the wall. If the paws are fixed in a plastic box, then you can use a chisel cut slits in the plastic. This way you can securely fix the socket.

However, don't forget! When unplugging the electrical plug from the socket, you still need to hold the socket with your hand.

Installing an outlet (video)

is an extremely responsible matter, requiring certain knowledge and experience in performing such work. Therefore, such large-scale events are most often entrusted to electrical specialists. But some problems that arise, for example, during cosmetic repairs or simply during the operation of electrical equipment, can be solved on your own. Such accessible operations include connecting stationary lighting fixtures, installing new or replacing faulty sockets and switches.

In this publication we will focus our attention on sockets - they are the ones we deal with most often. The saturation of everyday life with useful electrical appliances is constantly growing, and new equipment often requires new connection points. In addition, any socket does not last forever, it is designed for a certain number of plug connections. And sooner or later it exhausts its resource, begins to spark, become loose, and sometimes completely crumbles into dust. And simply when carrying out cosmetic repairs, owners often want to replace all sockets and switches with new ones that best suit the style of the chosen finish.

So, he is considering the question of how to connect the outlet on his own, without calling a technician.

Briefly about the types and design of sockets

For a person who will be installing an outlet for the first time, it would be logical to first understand how it works. Its structure is not particularly complex, but nevertheless.

Let's look at it in the diagram. True, it does not reflect the entire variety of designs of modern sockets, but the principle of the device is approximately the same.

The main role is played by the housing (item 1), which contains contact groups and terminals, as well as devices for fixing the socket in the socket box or directly on the wall surface. The body is made of dielectric material - most often it is plastic, but it can also be ceramic. Sockets with ceramic cases are somewhat more expensive and are considered to be of higher quality. However, they require careful handling during installation - if the socket is accidentally dropped or, for example, the fastening screws are overtightened, the housing may break and cannot be repaired.

On the front side, the socket is closed with a plastic cover (pos. 2). The cover has a shaped groove with socket holes into which the pin contacts of the plug enter. The lid can be solid or collapsible - often it has an additional decorative frame (item 3). When installed correctly, this frame will be pressed tightly against the wall and will completely cover the location where the outlet is installed. The cover is attached to the body using a screw (item 4). There may be several screws - for example, on double or triple sockets. As a rule, the screws are equipped with a simple stopper on the inside, so that when unscrewed they do not fall out of their sockets.

The housing contains a contact group. Since we will only consider single-phase 220 V sockets, there are two such contacts - for connecting zero and phase (position 5). The most commonly used are petal (plate) contacts. Spring ones are considered more reliable for switching and durable, but they are now rarely found on sale.

To connect to the contacts of the wiring suitable for the socket, each of them is equipped with a terminal (item 6). There are many types of terminals, but they can be roughly divided into two categories.

— In one (predominant) fixation of the conductor is ensured by tightening the screw. By the way, the screw head in different models of sockets can be located differently - at the back, on the front, on the side or from top to bottom.

Many sockets today are equipped with additional contacts for connecting to the ground loop. Most often in our area there are models with two grounding curved petal contacts, located at the top and bottom, respectively (item 7). The metal plate of this PE contact also has its own terminal (pos. 8) for connecting the wire.

To secure the socket in the socket box, two types of clamps can be used simultaneously or separately.

— Firstly, these are special clamping feet that have pointed serrated edges (item 9). Each of these tabs is equipped with a screw (item 10), when tightened, it moves to the side and firmly rests against the body of the socket box.

— Secondly, most modern socket boxes also provide for fastening the socket with a screw (self-tapping screw). For these fasteners there are special eyes (item 11) with a characteristic arched shape - this makes it possible to slightly correct the position of the socket.

By the way, what was shown above is perhaps not the most typical example of a socket. The overwhelming number of modern models are also equipped with a metal support (item 12) - a special plate that significantly simplifies the installation process.

When installed, this support rests perfectly on the plane of the wall, that is, it is impossible to make a mistake with the depth of placement of the socket body. The plate itself will then be completely hidden by a decorative cover.

The support is always provided with the above-mentioned eyes for screw fastening to the socket box. In addition, there may also be holes in the corners (pos. 13). They are very useful when the socket is installed on a rigid base without a socket at all. For example, on a wall covered with clapboard or other panels, provided that under the finishing there is a small space sufficient in depth for the socket body. In this case, a window of the required size is simply cut out, and the socket itself is attached to the finishing surface through a caliper with four self-tapping screws. It couldn't be simpler!

As mentioned above, sockets can be single or even triple, that is, designed to connect several electrical appliances at once. Another approach is when several single sockets connected in parallel are installed for these purposes.

A few words about the types of sockets.

• In the recent past, type “C” prevailed - only two contacts, zero and phase. It is still widely used today - it is quite suitable for electrical appliances of small and medium power that do not require mandatory grounding.

This type, by the way, is also not very homogeneous. Surely many have encountered that such sockets of the old “Soviet” type do not fit the plugs of many electrical appliances, since the pins have a larger diameter than the holes. However, now, it seems, the “Soviet” type is no longer available for sale, so the problem becomes insignificant.

• Type “F” has the same two sockets for the plug pins, but is also equipped with grounding contacts. It was this type that was shown in the diagram when the socket design was considered.

Such sockets dominate in our time, as human life is increasingly saturated with a variety of equipment, the safe operation of which requires grounding. However, such an outlet allows you to connect other electrical appliances without any problems. With the exception, perhaps, of only old forks with a round body rim that does not have figured cutouts.

• It is permissible in our conditions to install “E” type sockets. The sockets for phase and neutral do not differ from the “F” type, but the grounding contact has the shape of a protruding pin.

Such sockets are not particularly popular among us. But if you pay attention to the design of the plugs of most modern electrical appliances, you will notice that it is suitable for both types, “F” and “E” - it has a special hole with a contact for the pin to enter. But another plug clearly won’t work, that is, the socket is not very versatile. In addition, turning the plug 180 degrees in the socket is completely eliminated, and this sometimes becomes useful when using electrical appliances.

Of course, there are many more types of sockets. Only three were highlighted here, since they are the ones that are used most often in Russian conditions.

Sockets also differ in the degree (class) of protection of the housing. This indicator is indicated by the IP index and a two-digit number. The first number indicates the class of protection against penetration of solids and dust, the second – about protection from the effects of water.

— For ordinary premises of a house or apartment, class IP22 or IP33 is quite sufficient. If the socket is planned to be installed in a children's room, then it is better to purchase a model with a class of at least IP43. A special feature of such products is the presence of a cover and special curtains that cover the sockets for the plug pins when the socket is not in use. This will make it difficult for a curious young “researcher” to access live contacts.

- But for bathrooms, showers, and kitchens, models with a class of at least IP44 are purchased - here the humidity is high, and there is a very high probability of water splashes hitting the socket.

— IP44 class is also suitable for installation in an unheated basement.

— An even higher class is needed if the socket needs to be installed on the street or, for example, on an open balcony. Here, both the impact of dust and direct exposure to atmospheric precipitation are taken into account. So, for safety reasons, it is recommended to use models with a protection class of at least IP55.

Now that the general concepts about the design and types of sockets have been obtained, you can refer to the schematic diagrams of their connection.

Schemes for connecting sockets to the electrical network

Socket connection diagrams are not particularly complex. But it is still necessary to consider them.

First, a diagram for connecting sockets to a single-phase network, which does not have a ground loop.

The diagram shows digital symbols:

1 – general safety coupled machine.

2 – automatic switch that disconnects the phase on the line to which the sockets will be connected.

3 – zero bus.

4 – distribution switching boxes. According to the rules, wiring in the house must be located exactly above the sockets, so that the vertical outlet section goes down. Each outlet (or block of several outlets) must have its own junction box.

5 – the cable of hidden or open wiring is conventionally shown.

Find out from our new article on our portal.

Please note - in accordance with the rules followed by professional electricians, it is customary to place the phase on the socket on the left, and zero on the right. Unfortunately, not everyone does exactly this. Although such installation greatly simplifies the operation of some devices (those that fundamentally require the mandatory position of phase and zero), and carrying out diagnostics and repair work if there are problems in the network.

Where is the best place to install sockets?

This publication is devoted specifically to connecting sockets, and not to planning their location and rules for laying wiring. These questions are so important that they are given a separate article on our portal. In it, by the way, a lot of attention is paid to the peculiarities of placing sockets in the kitchen, where there is usually a maximum “concentration” of large household appliances.

The second scheme is also single sockets, but of the “F” type, with a connection to the grounding circuit.

6 – bus for connecting grounding (PE) wires. They are shown in green in the diagram.

However, another option for wiring is also possible, which is often used, for example, in utility rooms, especially with an open type of wiring. In this case, the ground loop runs from below, along the floor along the perimeter of the walls. And a separate wire rises from it to the socket. And the eyeliner itself on top is the usual phase and zero. The switching on the socket terminals does not change in any way.

Now let’s slightly increase the area for connecting sockets and see how switching is performed if it is necessary to install a block of two or more pieces.

If the connection is to a network without a ground loop, then everything is relatively simple. In this case, the sockets are connected with a so-called loop. That is, the phase wire approaches the first, and is connected from it to the second by a jumper. Further, from the second jumper goes to the third. The neutral contacts of sockets are switched in the same way.

The method, it must be said, is not without its drawbacks. For example, if there is insufficient contact of one of the wires, say, on the second socket, the third a priori becomes inoperative. However, this is easily diagnosed, and for preventive purposes it is recommended to tighten the screw terminals annually.

If the design of the terminal in sockets provides such an opportunity, the optimal solution would be to make connections not with jumpers, but with a solid wire. The insulation is removed in a small area, the wire is bent into a loop and this loop is clamped into the terminal of the first socket. Then the section of insulation for the second outlet is removed - and so on. There is, of course, a lot more fuss; it is necessary to provide in advance the required length of the supply line wires, but the sockets are obtained according to the degree of their performance - they are independent of one another.

It would seem that sockets with a grounding contact can be connected using a cable in the same way. However, such a connection (using jumpers) is undesirable, since it is not reliable. If the absence of a phase or zero becomes immediately noticeable to users, and measures to restore the functionality of the outlet are taken immediately, then the unreliability of the protective grounding may remain undetected for a very long time. And this can pose a very serious threat when operating electrical appliances.

By the way, the operating rules for electrical installations directly prohibit the serial connection of the ground wire.

"PUE-7

1.7.144. The connection of each open conductive part of the electrical installation to the neutral protective or protective grounding conductor must be made using a separate branch. The serial inclusion of exposed conductive parts into the protective conductor is not permitted.”

Therefore, as a last resort, you should proceed as shown above - with a common ground wire and creating several sections on it for terminal connections (although this will not be entirely correct).

And the best thing is to perform high-quality twisting (unsoldering) on ​​the grounding wire suitable for the first socket box. And from there, lead a separate grounding wire to each socket of the unit for individual connection.

Will such a twist fit in the socket of the first socket? Numerous examples presented in photographs on the Internet convince us that this is possible.

You can also install a deeper socket box for the first socket - not 40, but 60 mm - it will be much easier to fit the wires there. By the way, if space allows, nothing prevents you from performing similar twisting (unsoldering) for the phase with zero - the reliability of the socket block will only benefit from this. Naturally, all connections are carefully insulated with electrical tape or heat-shrinkable tubing. And the twists themselves are very convenient to make using special PPE caps - it turns out quickly, accurately, and very reliably. Wago terminals are also very convenient for such purposes, but for loaded lines, high-quality twisting will still be more reliable.

Sometimes they do this too - they put one more socket box, and it is used as a local mounting box. Then, after switching the entire block, it is covered with a plug, and then with decorative wall trim. In this case, certainly nothing will prevent you from making reliable, high-quality connections to all sockets of the block.

Socket installation process - step by step

In this article we will not focus on laying wires to the installation site of sockets, installing boxes and socket boxes. This is a topic for a separate and very detailed consideration, and it has already found coverage on the pages of the portal.

How to install wiring in a house or apartment yourself?

The task is not simple, requiring certain knowledge and very high care when carrying out work. In addition, during its implementation it will be necessary to perform a lot of general construction operations. The theoretical foundations and all stages of installation are described in great detail in a large instructional article on our portal.

When installing sockets, you should adhere to the established color markings of the wires. It is customary to connect zero with blue wires, grounding with green-yellow wires. There can be different options with the phase - brown, black, white, red and others, but in any case - always different from zero and grounding.

When installing sockets, and during other electrical installation operations, in any case, the first step is to make sure that the line is completely de-energized. Some measures are being taken to prevent unauthorized switching on - this must be constantly monitored until the work is completed.

Below we will discuss several options for installing sockets. All of them are certainly similar, but have some differences due to the characteristics of specific cases.

Single outlet installation

A very common case - it has been manufactured, and it’s time to install new sockets. A cable is connected to the socket box, which is still inside it in an insulated state.

Illustration
	When wallpapering a wall, two diagonal cuts at once marked the location of the socket box. This is where the outlet will be installed.
	First of all, you need to completely open the socket itself. Fragments of wallpaper around the perimeter are carefully trimmed with a sharp knife...
	...and are deleted. The action is carried out carefully so as not to accidentally damage the finish in the area that will remain uncovered by the outlet.
	The end of the power cable hidden inside is pulled out.
	After finishing work, a lot of debris, mortar residues, and dust can accumulate inside the socket box. All this needs to be cleaned out.
	After removing large debris, small debris can be quickly cleaned with a vacuum cleaner.
	That's it, the place is prepared - you can proceed to installation work.
	First of all, if necessary, shorten the cable suitable for the outlet. Usually it is assumed that it should protrude beyond the surface of the wall by 60÷80 mm.
	Next, you need to remove the outer layer of protective insulation (braid) from the cable. Here it is shown that the master is using an ordinary knife. It’s possible, of course, but still it’s not entirely correct, since it’s easy to damage the insulation of the wires. Below, in the following table, a more competent approach to this operation will be shown.
	The braid is removed, freeing the wires. Its remains are carefully cut off and removed so that they do not interfere with work.
	The freed wires are immediately separated somewhat to the sides, exactly in the order in which they will be connected in the socket: phase on the left, neutral on the right and grounding in the center. The ends of the wires (about 25 mm) can be slightly bent downwards.
	Using an insulation stripper, the ends are exposed - approximately 10 mm from the edge.
	The ends of the wires are stripped and ready for installation.
	The example shown here uses a socket equipped with self-clamping spring terminals. That is, the work is simplified to the limit. The stripped end of the wire is inserted into the hole in the terminal and simply pushed into it until it stops. Switching the socket takes only a few seconds.
	After this, it is necessary to check the reliability of fixation of all three wires in the terminals using a pulling motion. If everything is fine, you can move on.
	The connected wires are slightly bent so that they are located along the back side of the socket body.
	In this form, the socket is ready for installation in the socket box.
	In this example, the mounting screws still remain in the socket box. Of course, they should be unscrewed. But usually this operation is carried out a little earlier, when cleaning the socket box from construction debris.
	The socket body is inserted into the socket box and approximately, by eye, is aligned horizontally. Then it is temporarily fixed with self-tapping screws. First on the one hand...
	...and then the opposite one. The screws are not yet tightened.
	The next step is to align the top edge of the socket strictly horizontally. To do this, a level is applied to the upper edge of the caliper, and the necessary position adjustments are made. Arc-shaped cutouts under the screws make it possible to slightly rotate the socket in the desired direction.
	Then, without disturbing the set position, tighten the fastening screws. After this, the screws of the stopper claws are screwed in, which, moving apart, will rest against the walls of the socket box and finally fix the socket.
	You can proceed to the final assembly. For the model of rosette shown, the decorative frame consists of two parts - first it is assembled.
	Then the central cover with a socket for the plug is inserted into it.
	In this form they are connected to the body of the installed socket. The system of grooves and protrusions on these parts will ensure an ideal, unambiguous alignment - somehow installing the cover unevenly will simply not work.
	All that remains is to tighten the fixing screw in the center - it will finally press the cover to the socket body. True, you should not make “fanatical” efforts when screwing in so that the plastic of the lid does not crack.
	That's it, the socket is installed - the correct placement is checked. If this was the only electrical task, you can turn on the machine and check the functionality of the outlet.

Installing a block of two sockets

The situation is similar - after finishing it is necessary to install a block of two single sockets. The master will connect them to each other using a loop. The negative aspects of this method have already been discussed above, but many people do just that.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	Even before the finishing work begins, two socket boxes are placed in the right place at a set distance from one another. The power cable is connected to the left
	Two single Legrand sockets will be installed and covered with one common frame.
	This is the remnant of a three-core cable coil that was used for hidden wiring. A piece of it will be needed to connect the sockets to each other.
	After cleaning the socket boxes from construction debris, you can immediately unscrew the fastening screws from them. After installing the socket boxes before finishing, they are usually left in place so that the holes are not clogged with mortar, but now they should be removed.
	The end of the supplied cable is pulled out of the socket box. When cutting off the excess, the master is guided by the “4-finger rule” - this is how much the cable should protrude beyond the wall surface for the convenience of further electrical installation work.
	The braid is removed from the cable. But here the master first deliberately demonstrates how to do it. When cutting the braid with a knife, there is a high probability of damaging the insulation of the wires located inside.
	This is the kind of trouble that can happen. In addition, damage to the insulation may be almost unnoticeable, but one day, already during the operation of the outlet, it will play its fatal role.
	To remove the outer insulation of the cable, a special knife with a heel must be used.
	When working with such a tool, the risk of damaging the insulation of the cable wires is completely eliminated.
	The torn cable braid is cut off and removed so that it does not take up space in the box and does not interfere with work.
	After this, the ends of the three wires are exposed by about 10 mm. For this, a special tool must also be used - an insulation stripper. Making cuts with a knife means provoking a break in the conductor. In addition, scratches on the conductor are very unhelpful for quality contact when connecting to the terminals.
	Stripped ends of the wires in the first socket box. Now it is necessary to insert wires into it for switching with the second outlet.
	To do this, take a piece of the same cable that was used for the liner. This is important, because if you are going to make a cable, then only with completely identical wires. The braid is removed to a length from the edge of approximately 200 mm. After this, the wires from the side of the second socket box are inserted into the first through the channel between them.
	This is what it will look like in reality after pulling the wires.
	The ends of the inserted wires are also stripped of insulation and you can proceed to connecting the first outlet. This model has three screw terminals, but each has two identical sockets for inserting wires.
	Wires with the same color markings are inserted into them in pairs. In the left pair - white (phase), in the central - green-yellow (grounding), in the right - blue (zero). After installing each pair, the terminal is immediately tightened tightly with a screwdriver. After tightening all three terminals, the wires at the back are slightly bent down along the socket body...
	...and then the socket is carefully inserted into the socket box and approximately aligned.
	The socket is not yet secured with self-tapping screws - first you need to immediately install the second one. Here everything is even simpler.
	First, the required length of the wires is measured with “four fingers” and the insulation is stripped from their ends.
	Then the wires are inserted in the same order into the socket terminals and tightened with screws.
	After this, the wires are folded along the body in the same way, and the socket is installed in the socket box.
	Now you can provide preliminary fixation of the sockets with self-tapping screws - two pieces for each, left and right. The screws are not yet fully tightened.
	The next step is to align the sockets horizontally. The master has a special tool for these purposes - miniature levels. Firstly, they are well fixed with magnets to the socket supports and do not tie your hands, and secondly, they allow you to perform alignment with very high accuracy. It is clear that if there are no such levels, you will have to make do with the usual ones.
	After the necessary adjustments to the position of the sockets have been made, they are finally fixed. First, the self-tapping screws are screwed in until they stop, and then the screws that will release the sockets’ stop legs.
	After the sockets are aligned, and after fixing, the correctness of their position is once again checked, you can proceed to the final procedures - installing the outer cladding and covers. The overall frame is unpacked and tried on.
	Then the covers are inserted one by one and finally secured with screws.
	That's it, installation of the double socket block is complete.

By the way, often when you need to have two sockets in a certain place, but there is no desire to bother with two sub-grids and assembling the block, they simply install one double one. In fact, its installation is practically no different from the usual installation - it is just larger in size. But there is one important nuance that should not be forgotten.

The fact is that in most models, in order to provide contacts on both plugs being connected, two plate bus bars are installed inside the socket - for phase and zero. But sometimes it happens that each of the buses has two terminals - seemingly for convenience during installation. And a fairly common mistake made by those performing such installation for the first time is that the phase and neutral wires are clamped into the terminals of one busbar.

The consequences of such inattention are completely obvious. When the power is turned on, there is an instant short circuit. And it will be very good if the matter is limited to just a burnt or melted socket. Things could be much worse.

So attentiveness and accuracy when carrying out electrical installation work must be mobilized to the fullest.

Features of installing sockets on a plasterboard wall

Another option that is often encountered during repairs is that the socket (one or a block of several) must be installed on a partition made of plasterboard or on a wall lined with it.

Naturally, this issue is thought through in advance, and a cable, enclosed in a special corrugated pipe for safety, is pulled to the installation site to be coated even before installing the plasterboard sheets.

The process of installing sockets, in principle, does not differ much from the options discussed above. The nuance here is rather the installation of socket boxes.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	For this task, special socket boxes for plasterboard are used. There are several similar models, but they all have one common distinctive feature.
	On both sides of such a socket there are pressing feet, which move upward along the groove intended for this purpose when the screw (screw) is screwed in. Thus, the paws will press the socket box from the back of the plasterboard sheet.
	The design of the socket box body and the legs themselves can be different. In this example, the body has the shape of a truncated cone, that is, when moving upward, the legs will also diverge to the sides. In other versions, the shape of the guide groove is made such that when the screw rotates, the tab first rotates 90 degrees and then progressively moves upward. But this does not particularly affect the installation order. Before installation, the tabs must be in their lowest position.
	In the socket boxes, windows are cut and then squeezed out to allow wires to pass through. In the first - from the bottom for cable entry and from the side for the switching channel with the second socket. In the second - only on the side for switching.
	The socket boxes are prepared - you can move on to markings on the wall. The location of the sockets, that is, the area where the supply cable is hidden under the drywall, should be known to the owners. In this case, a block of two sockets will be installed, and they, naturally, should be placed on the same horizontal line.
	A vertical line is also drawn - this is the axis of the first rosette. At the intersection point, a round window for the socket box will be drilled.
	The standard distance between the centers of socket boxes, if they are planned to be assembled into a single block, is 71 mm. This segment breaks off along a horizontal line. Naturally, when marking the centers of the holes, the location of the elements of the frame structure of the wall is always taken into account, so as not to hit the racks or lintels.
	Both centers are marked - you can proceed to drilling.
	For this, a special crown with a diameter of 68 mm is used. You can, of course, cut with a knife or file, but there is a very high risk of accidentally making a mistake, going beyond the boundaries of the cut, and the socket may not have sufficient support for reliable fixation. When drilling, you don’t need to make any special efforts - drywall is easy to cut. Excessive pressure may damage the back cardboard covering of the gypsum board. In addition, do not forget that somewhere behind the plasterboard wall there is also a cable that can be damaged if, due to great force, the crown uncontrollably falls deep into the wall.
	The first window for the socket box is ready. Move on to drilling the second one.
	Both sockets for socket boxes are drilled out.
	Now you need to find the cable laid there behind the plasterboard lining...
	...and carefully pull its end out.
	Then the cable is passed through the hole in the bottom of the first socket, and the socket itself is carefully inserted into the cut out socket...
	...all the way, so that the edge along the outer circumference rests against the surface of the drywall.
	After this, the second socket box is inserted into its socket.
	The socket boxes are aligned along the vertical axis, and then they are fixed. To do this, rotate the screws (or self-tapping screws) clockwise to ensure the movement of the presser feet. On many models (in particular, on the one demonstrated), this movement is clearly visible visually. For some, it is invisible, and you have to rely on the force on the screwdriver. In any case, rotate the screw until you feel that the foot has rested on the drywall. They move to the opposite paw and bring it to the same position. After this, another half turn is made on both screws - and that’s enough. Under no circumstances should you overtighten - the foot may begin to crumble the drywall from the inside.
	Similar actions are repeated on the second socket box. We can assume that they have been successfully installed.
	Next, the cable braid is removed. In principle, sockets can also be installed. But it is also recommended to putty this unit - this will increase its strength. And, in general, it is better to finally install the sockets after the finishing is completed.
	This means that the ends of the wires need to be insulated...
	...and then carefully roll it up and hide it in the socket. The installation of the sockets themselves, when the final conditions for this are created, is no different from the examples discussed above.

* * * * * * *

So, the issues of self-installation of sockets were considered. Of course, the variety of possible installation options is not limited to the examples shown.

If, after reading the article, a reader inexperienced in electrical engineering still has unresolved questions, or the fear of self-installation has not passed, it is better not to undertake it. Call an electrician - it will be more reliable and safer.
But if you decide to do it yourself, then always make sure that the network is completely de-energized before starting work. And after completing the installation, carefully check the correctness of all connections, the quality of the insulation - and only then can you carry out a test by turning on the voltage.

At the end of the publication, there is an interesting video on the same topic:

Video: Nuances of correct installation of grounded sockets

Any work, including installation of electrical wiring, is usually done following a certain sequence. Thanks to this, you will save both your time and resources.

And the question of redoing any group of wiring in a room or the entire apartment as a whole will no longer arise even in the distant future. Let's look at the order of work in as much detail as possible, following which you will ultimately get a high-quality result.

Electrician before or after plastering

First of all, remember that all electrical installation is done properly after plastering. Therefore, the finishers work first, then the electricians come in.

In extreme situations, you have to do the opposite, but then you will encounter a lot of problems that could have been avoided in the first place.

Electrical markings

Any quality work begins with accurate markings. Most often, professionals use laser levels and axle builders for this.

With their help, you can quickly and accurately mark the centers for all the sockets in the room. It would seem that a couple of millimeters will not play a decisive role here. What's wrong with one block at the beginning of the room being slightly higher than the other at the end.

However, very often in apartments you come across wallpaper with horizontal or vertical stripes. And these stripes will clearly show when the socket box is not installed level.

The same can be said about the seams on the tiles.

Therefore, place all socket boxes in the room in the same plane. The recommended distances are as follows:

• for sockets – 30cm from the floor

• for light switches – 60-90cm

• everything above the countertop, in the bathroom or kitchen – 110cm

After all the centers of the socket boxes have been marked, then proceed to marking the mounting points for the lamps, both on the walls and on the ceiling.

At the same time, you can mark out places for hanging plasterboard structures. Since in the future, when all the cables and corrugations are on the ceiling, marking the fasteners for drywall will not be very convenient.

But it’s worth bothering with all this if you will also be installing the structures.

After all this, proceed to making marks for the corrugation fasteners. The most important thing is that they do not interfere with each other.

Usually, competent marking, even with the use of modern measuring instruments, takes a full day of work. Prepare yourself in advance for exactly this period. If you are in a hurry, it will definitely backfire on you during further installation.

Drilling out socket boxes

Next begins the noisiest and dustiest part of electrical installation work - drilling and chipping.

In order to minimize the amount of dust, construction vacuum cleaners are used.

In addition, each tool in this case must have an outlet with a pipe or a dust removal device.

Small hammer drill, medium hammer, large hammer, wall chaser, all of these tools must have dust removal, otherwise your vacuum cleaner will be of no use.

There are also special attachments that fit on a regular grinder and all work is carried out with almost complete dust removal. You can purchase both expensive models from the famous companies Hilti or DeWalt, and absolutely affordable ones, for example Mechanic AirDuster.

First, the centers of the socket boxes are drilled out using a d-6mm drill. Then, based on the material of the walls, a tool is selected for arranging niches for socket boxes.

It could be:

• wall chaser with a cut 60mm deep

Wall chipping

After making niches for sockets and switches, gating for cable lines begins. You need to do it in exactly this order.

Otherwise, if you first groove and then try to make niches, your center drill will lead into the groove.

The easiest way to cut grooves is with a laser level. Sometimes several lasers are used for this work simultaneously.

For example, if you have two grooves going down to the socket block - one power, the other low-current, then it will be faster to set up two laser levels and, without descending from the stepladder, cut both parallel straight lines from top to bottom at once.

When all the niches and grooves are ready, the premises are cleaned and all the socket boxes are installed.

Next comes the adjustment of the clips for the corrugations on the ceiling. This is easiest and fastest to do using .

If it is not there, then use a regular hammer drill to drill holes d-6mm and the clips are placed on the dowel and nails.

Is it possible to lay cable routes without corrugation and how this can all end, read in a separate article.

You only need to use gray PVC corrugation. Unlike other multi-colored species, it does not support combustion. Its flammability class is A1.

In addition to being non-flammable, the corrugation protects the cable from mechanical damage. You can step on it, hit it lightly with a hammer, or catch it with the sharp edge of the profile.

Of course, you will damage the shell itself, but nothing will happen to the cable. Well, among other things, installation in a corrugated sleeve looks more aesthetically pleasing.

The corrugated cable can be laid with equal success both on the wall and on the floor and ceiling. True, in all cases there are a number of significant differences.

Number of groups by room

Where and how many cable routes should be laid? As for living spaces (living room, bedroom), previously there were only two lines in them.

Today, three have become practically the norm:

• sockets

• lighting

• plus air conditioning or other powerful equipment

You can run a separate wire for the TV socket in the children's room. This is done so that the child can be safely in this room, even without your supervision.

If your child is busy watching cartoons, then the remaining sockets in the nursery are turned off at the switchboard. At the same time, you will be absolutely calm that a curious child will not climb anywhere.

It turns out that a minimum of two cables are installed into the living space:

• lighting

• sockets

On average three:

• lighting

• air conditioner

For the nursery - four.

As for the kitchen, the situation is a little different. Electricity consumption in the kitchen is the highest in the entire apartment.

Among the powerful and critical devices that require a separate cable, the following stand out:

• washing machine

• dryer

• microwave

• fridge

Separate lines are also connected from the panel to each block of sockets above the work surface. That is, if you have 2-3 blocks of socket boxes on your work surface, then each of these blocks should have a separate group.

Why is this being done? At the moment, kitchen electrical appliances are very energy-intensive, and so that when using a bread machine with a kettle and toaster at the same time, the machine does not get knocked out and the contacts do not get hot, so many separate lines are initially laid.

Thanks to this, you can safely use all the necessary electrical appliances and not be afraid that something will burn or melt somewhere. This is especially true on holidays, when cooking in the kitchen is in full swing.

It turns out that the minimum requirement is to install at least 10 cable lines in the kitchen.

The cable cross-section should be selected based on the following recommendations:

• for low-power devices and lighting - copper cable with a cross section of 3 * 1.5 mm2

• for sockets and air conditioning - 3*2.5mm2

• oven – 3*4mm2

• electric stove, hob, instantaneous water heater – 3*6mm2

Cable brand VVGnG-Ls or NYM.

If we sum up all the above routes, it turns out that on average about 30 power lines are installed in a two- or three-room apartment.

These are the realities of today.

As for low current, two twisted pairs of UTP or FTP cable are installed at each access point where there will be Internet or TV.

Plus, don't forget about a shielded TV cable.

It can also be connected directly or provided with a separate television socket. Thanks to it, your video equipment will not be tied to any one place.

Connection in junction boxes

When all the routes have been laid, it’s time to connect the wires in the junction boxes.

Since according to the PUE there must be access to distribution boxes, it is not recommended to install them on the ceiling. Boxes built flush with the walls also don’t look nice in modern renovations.

Therefore, the best option is to use special recessed socket boxes in which all switching is carried out. Most electricians use regular socket boxes with a depth of 45mm.

Some installers choose deeper options – 60mm.

However, there are even wider examples, for example from Kaiser. They are called Kaiser 1068-02 electronics mounting box.

Often, in order to leave a sufficient supply of wire, even in a regular recessed socket box there is not enough space. And this box perfectly accommodates all the wires, plus connecting terminals.

All switching in them is done in the upper part. Then the whole thing is puttied and an ordinary socket box remains.

For subsequent access to the connections, you just need to remove the electrical installation equipment (socket, switch), remove the plug, pull out the supply of wire and carry out any manipulations with the wires.

If you do not have a single block, but a double or triple one, then here too you can use in-depth options up to 60mm.

Internal jumpers in such blocks can be dismantled. Due to this, the supply of wire that remains in such a box sometimes reaches 30 cm.

Switching wires inside can be done in several ways:

• soldering

• pre-twist welding

• crimping

• Wago clamp

It is not recommended to use daisy chaining in outlet lines. Also, all outlet lines are looped. That is, an additional wire is pulled from the first socket to the very last one.