Types of cesspools

The principle of operation of a cesspool in a country house was invented a long time ago, and is still relevant today. All waste from the toilet is collected in a prepared hole in the soil. Thanks to a specially selected design and reinforced walls, such a cesspool can perform all the assigned functions. It is arranged as follows:

• made of brick or rubble stone;
• from a plastic or metal container;
• from reinforced concrete rings;
• from a ready-made container for septic tanks;
• made of monolithic concrete.

After a lot of liquid has accumulated in this recess, you can begin pumping out the waste. This must be done using a special vacuum cleaner or manually. Many owners of country houses choose an option that involves filling up the cesspool after 3-4 years. In this case, you need to focus on the degree of its filling.

When the waste fills 70% of the pit, it can be backfilled, after which the toilet itself is moved to a new place in the country. After 7-8 years, the entire biological mass is broken down and ordinary black soil is formed. At this point you can dig a hole again and install a toilet with your own hands.

Cesspool for a country toilet made of tires

Choosing the right place on the site

If you decide to use a cesspool to build a toilet in your country house with your own hands, you need to choose the right place on the site. If this is not done, waste from the bathroom will negatively affect the supporting structures of neighboring buildings, pollute the soil and drinking water. Follow the following recommendations when choosing a place on the site for arranging a cesspool with your own hands:

• distance to any body of water – 25 m;
• if the site is on a sloping area, install the toilet at the lowest point;
• in the presence of clay soils, the distance from the bathroom to the well with drinking water can be 20 m, on loam - 30 m, on sandy or sandy loam - 50 m;
• there must be at least 12 m to the nearest basement, cellar, residential building;
• to the sauna or bathhouse it can be 8 m;
• the distance to the barn with animals should be 4 m;
• the nearest tree can be at a distance of 4 m, and a bush - 1 m;
• the fence at the dacha should be at least 1 m away from the bathroom;
• take into account the prevailing direction of the wind to prevent spread unpleasant odor Location on.

Also take into account the depth of groundwater. If it is located at a distance of 2.5 m or more from the ground surface, then you can safely dig a hole for a toilet in the country with your own hands. If this is not the case, then use sealed structures to arrange an outdoor bathroom on the site.

Dimensions of pits for outdoor toilets

To build a toilet in your country house with your own hands, you need to dig a small pit. Its depth should be at least 2 m, but not more than 4 m. The cesspool should not be too deep, since in this case it will not be possible to pump out all the sewage. The sewer truck simply will not reach the bottom if the depth of the pit is too deep.

The optimal width and length of the cesspool should be approximately 0.8-1.2 m. This will be enough for a dacha where 2-5 people live permanently or periodically.

Sealed storage systems or earthen ones?

When selected optimal place at the dacha, you need to start digging a pit with your own hands. After the cesspool is ready, you need to choose the type of arrangement of its bottom. It can be in the form:

• filtration field;
• solid slab.

In the first case, you can save on pumping waste from the pit, since excess liquid will gradually be absorbed into the soil. In this case, you need to carefully choose the location of the toilet in your summer cottage. A cesspool with an earthen bottom can handle 1 cubic meter. m of waste per day.

If you think that you have more of them, then you need to choose another option for installing septic tanks. To make a filtration field with your own hands to reduce harmful impurities that can get into the soil, you need to lay a layer of gravel 10-15 cm thick at the bottom of the hole. Be sure to compact it thoroughly, then pour several buckets of sand.

When arranging a sealed bottom, you need to understand that you will have to pump out stagnant liquid several times a year. But in this way it is possible to prevent contamination of groundwater and soil on the site. To arrange such a foundation you need:

• Compact the soil at the bottom.
• Arrange the sand cushion with a layer of 10-15 cm.
• Lay the reinforcing mesh.
• Fill the screed with a height of 30-40 mm. To increase strength, prepare a cement-sand-crushed stone mixture.

When the base has hardened, you can begin to strengthen the walls of the pit.

We use brick

If the conditions on the site allow you, you can make not only the bottom of the pit filtration, but also its walls. This will allow you not to pump liquid out of the toilet for at least 4-5 years. To do this, it is necessary to lay the brick on a cement-sand mortar, leaving a gap of 1-2 cm between the rows. It is recommended to fill the space between the walls and the ground with small crushed stone, which will additionally filter out biological waste.

To create a sealed pit you need:

• Fill the concrete bottom.
• Lay out the walls using red bricks and cement-sand mortar. Use seam dressing to keep the masonry strong. Brick can be laid on edge.
• Use a plumb line to check the verticality of the walls. Check this after laying each row of bricks.
• Plaster the inside surface of the pit.
• Additionally, apply bitumen mastic to achieve complete sealing.
• Brick walls should protrude 10-15 cm above the surface so that rainwater does not flow inside.

DIY brick drainage pit

We strengthen the walls with reinforced concrete rings

This type of strengthening the walls of a cesspool is considered very reliable, but expensive. Install hardware concrete rings It’s difficult to do it yourself, since the weight of one element can reach 400 kg. To install them, you need to use the services of special equipment - a manipulator or a small crane.

The installation process of reinforced concrete rings consists of the following steps:

• The cesspool should have a width and length of about 1.1-1.2 m to install a ring with a diameter of 1 m. Its height is 0.9 m, so use 2-3 pieces.
• Lower the reinforced concrete rings into the hole so that they protrude 10-15 cm on the surface.
• As an alternative option for installing reinforced concrete walls, you can place a ring on the ground surface in the desired location. Then dig under it. From their own weight, the rings will gradually sink into the soil.
• Connect the elements together using metal plates or staples. Cover the joints with cement-sand mortar.
• Next you can pour the concrete bottom.
• Fill the gap between the rings and the walls of the pit with sand and compact it.

If you decide to make a cesspool from monolithic concrete, then you need to use formwork into which the finished mixture is poured. This is a long process that requires high costs. Therefore, arranging walls in this way is justified only if there is groundwater close to the ground surface.

We use containers

A do-it-yourself cesspool from a ready-made container is considered one of the most profitable options. It takes a little time to arrange it, since such containers weigh little and are easy to install. It is best to use a plastic barrel, which is not subject to corrosion and has a long service life. To install it you need:

• The hole should be 15-20 cm larger than the plastic tank so that it can be installed without problems. In this case, you can use either a solid barrel or a container without a bottom, depending on the conditions on the site.
• If the bathroom will be located on heaving soils, pour a concrete screed under the barrel.
• After installing the barrel, fill the free space between its walls and the ground with sand. At the same time, compact it thoroughly.

Ready-made containers for septic tanks are installed in the same way. If they have significant weight, you cannot do without the services of a manipulator or crane.

After the pit for the bathroom is completely ready, you can begin installing the above-ground part of the bathroom.

Video: Cesspool - stages of construction

Construction documentation contains the term “temporary buildings and structures”.

They are built primarily on site, there can be no talk of all the modern amenities in these sanitary cabins.

They are quick and effective, consisting of simple steps like digging a hole for a toilet and placing a box over it.

At the dachas and rural houses prefer to have a closet in a secluded place.

Even the installation of amenities inside the building can break down, and the help of qualified plumbers is not quickly available in a remote area, then a street house will come in handy.

The secrets of the buildings are shared among the developers; not only the preferences of the inhabitants are provided for, but also the characteristics of the land plots.

They solve the question of how to dig a hole under if there is water nearby. Because in this case, you need to choose an alternative, since it is not advisable to dig deep holes with groundwater located at a depth above three meters.

It's important to choose comfortable corner for the location of the booth, away from prying eyes and at the same time with easy accessibility.

Despite the fact that individual construction is being carried out on owned land, compliance with sanitary standards is not canceled. According to the rules, the toilet is placed at a distance of 10 m from the living space and 20 m away from water sources.

The interests of neighboring properties must also be taken into account; the space between their fence and the toilet should be about 2 m. The owner calculates the possibility of free access for a sewage truck and access for pumping equipment. For example, a car operates with a barrel connected. From the hoses (7 m) lowered into the pit, sewage enters the container; their length should be enough.

The house must be placed in a place that is easily accessible in any weather, so that it is not blown by the wind, and the pit does not quickly overflow from precipitation, spring melting of snow and the influx of groundwater.

• the cesspool must be placed in a place from which it is not possible to enter a water source
• maintain a distance between the restroom and living spaces, both your own and those of neighbors
• distance is necessary with washing facilities - showers
• the distance from the neighboring fence should be normal
• It is better to install toilet doors towards your yard
• the site is chosen in an area from which the smell from wind currents is not heard, both in your own recreation areas and in neighboring ones

Observing the little things will save you from quarrels with neighboring residents in the future, and will not cause unpleasant moments with guests when the smell from the restroom drowns out the aroma of barbecue.

What are the differences between pits?

Digging a cesspool is characterized by the tightness of the bottom and its filtration.

Hermetically sealed structures are somewhat more expensive.

The waste will go towards consumables and the frequency of cleaning fecal matter.

The base is filtering, less expensive, but requires compliance with sanitary standards; restrictions exist in the possible contamination of adjacent areas.

The circumference of the walls must be strengthened, for this they use various materials from:

• bricks
• plastic
• monolith
• concrete rings

Having taken into account all the nuances, construction begins with clearing the site, removing old buildings unnecessary in this place, uprooting roots from trees, etc.

It is better to choose a warm and dry time so as not to have to decide how to dig a hole for a toilet in winter. During the cold period in regions with harsh winters, the soil will freeze and additional equipment will be required; it is physically impossible to dig into the ground with a shovel.

In this case, a drill or mini excavator with a bucket will be useful. In warm areas, ground freezing is not a problem; people still choose a more favorable season to start construction.

An idea of ​​the design features of the finish

The owner can build any top in terms of complexity and shape, but the hole under it must be reliable, properly dug and equipped:

• Installation of concrete rings occurs using pre-purchased structural elements. Their number is equal to that dug; installation requires special equipment, dexterity and special knowledge. It is impossible to lift and install the bulky part manually; the rings are not cheap; in total, certain costs will be incurred.
• Simpler construction work involves lining a cesspool with bricks. To do this, you don’t need the specifications of an elite mason; any owner of his own home can lay it around the walls himself. Hiring costs will go down work force, and illiquid material is suitable for masonry.
• Manufacturers share good results after installing reinforcing mesh around the perimeter of the hole, it is filled with concrete. It is necessary to follow the concrete manufacturing technology and pouring rules; the installation of formwork will help to implement them.
• The wide variety of containers that have appeared in the trade make it possible to use them for cesspools. They can be plastic, metal, whatever you don’t mind using as a waste place.
• A profitable and economical way is to install unnecessary car tires. They are reliable and strong, even barrels are inferior to them, if of course you have access to purchasing them. Near car repair shops and landfills you can get such a shortage for free.
• Summer residents cover their otkhodniks with slate sheets, however, this material is quite fragile, and the formation of debris on the surfaces is possible. It is necessary to select solid sheets in height, join the edges, and repair is a rather unpleasant procedure; it is better to perform a more stable structure once.

Some craftsmen lined the hole with boards and scraps of wood. They can be successfully placed, the elements can be selected according to size, but the tree will quickly rot due to the specific nature of its habitat, and you will have to clean out not only waste products, but also remove the remains of the formwork.

How to dig a cesspool

Having decided on the terrain and location of the toilet, you need to prepare necessary tool for digging and further arrangement:

• purchase finishing materials
• shovel
• roulette
• bucket

Start digging along with preliminary actions:

• It is necessary to clean the area and mark it with pegs driven into the ground around the perimeter.
• The first layer is removed, if there is a problem with the volume of land, the soil is divided into fertile, clay and sand in piles, then the unnecessary is removed, the useful is used for its intended purpose.
• They try to dig a hole that is the right size with smooth walls and bottom.
• Additional work is done with the bottom, which includes filling the sand cushion and compacting it. Depending on the choice of further finishing, crushed stone or reinforcing elements are laid and poured with concrete mixture.
• When the base dries, they begin brick lining the perimeter, plastering the walls with a strong concrete solution, and possibly coating the surfaces with bitumen. They provide for raising the walls a few centimeters above.

An interesting method is offered by private owners for installing a metal barrel in a prepared hole.

How to arrange and install a metal container

It is important to properly process the base for the metal barrel.

The installation location should be 30 centimeters higher.

Prepare the container by randomly hollowing out the bottom with a tool, leaving a few ribbon bundles.

The pit is backfilled with any available material, crushed stone will do, crushed stone, broken brick.

It is necessary to form a porous, insoluble 30 cm layer. Then they place a vessel with a hole in the bottom on an elevated platform and sprinkle crushed grain around it.

Between the layers, a spacer made of polyethylene, oilcloth or roofing felt is laid to prevent the soil from mixing with the “cushion”. The previously dug soil is poured on top, and the missing upper elements are equipped.

What are the stages of ring installation?

In order not to overshadow the beauty of suburban life, you just need to build your own sewer system in the most convenient way, with a functioning year-round system.

A small modernization will allow you to transform a simple cesspool into a sewer with the greatest possible comfort.

The principle of lining walls with building materials involves the absorption of waste through the bottom into the ground. Sanitation is opposed to such methods of feces disposal.

It allows you to use a large amount of liquid, diluted with modern detergents and chemicals, they are absorbed into, mixed with underground sources that enter the drinking source, according to the principle of the cycle of substances in nature.

Therefore, orderlies put in place prohibitive measures to prevent the free penetration of hazardous substances into water sources. The most the best option is the installation of septic tanks, which will eliminate many problems and create a civilized way of waste disposal.

The device is installed in accordance with all the previously listed standards for the location of the latrine away from water and people.

Before digging a hole, the volume of septic elements is calculated; it depends on the number of inhabitants of the house and the number of people passing through this area. And the design consists of compartments for settling and filtering liquid. Therefore, the pit will need to be large to accommodate all the functional vessels.

If there are funds, special equipment is hired for digging, since it will also be needed to install the rings. The base is finished with concrete with the entire step-by-step procedure, and a sand cushion must be poured.

The filter well is installed with an appropriate base from:

• gravel
• sand
• crushed stone

Backfilling is carried out with half a meter. The trade offers ready-made concrete bottoms; they are installed before lowering the rings. On the prepared base, they are lowered using a lifting mechanism, one by one, concrete structures, fastening the joints with concrete mixture.

Additionally, the parts are secured with staples or metal plates. Strengthen surfaces to prevent wall deformations due to spring soil movements.

Using pipes, a drain is organized into another pit with a shape that provides the required bend. The top of the structure is covered with a hatch, through which sewage will subsequently be pumped out during the period of mandatory annual cleaning.

Construction work of any category requires compliance with certain rules. For septic pits you will need:

• a circle or square with a perfectly even bottom, made according to specifications, these conditions affect the fit of the rings
• installation must be entrusted to specialists who have all the necessary equipment and technical equipment
• Initially, you should start digging a pit, then purchase required material by its size
• Before lowering the products into the pit, you need to drill circles in them for outlets

This option is suitable for country living, but it should be borne in mind that filling occurs quickly and sooner or later will require pumping out sewage. To save money and time, you will need to install other septic tanks; they are now sold and installed in a wide variety. The functions of some consist of waste treatment and further use of the liquid for technical needs.

Topside

Cabins for outdoor toilets are installed from different materials:

• wooden
• block
• brick
• corrugated sheets

The inside of the individual room is decorated in an original way with comfortable seats and toilets. Wooden houses are still in demand.

For this building you will need to construct a rectangular frame with columnar foundation. The corners are reinforced with block or brick linings. Install the insulating layer with roofing felt plates between foundation base and a wooden box.

The toilet assembly procedure consists of the following steps:

• frame bars are primed and painted to prevent rotting
• based on the dimensions of the dug pit, they knock together a frame and install it on the frozen
• vertical risers are nailed to the frame, vertical risers are secured with bolts and plates, they are leveled with a building level
• designate and arrange racks for the doorway
• they are fastening beam ceilings for the future roof, they protrude beyond the perimeter of the box, the slope of the roof must be observed, for this the rear wall is shorter in height than the front
• Inside, above the sump located, a small elevation is built for the seat; it will also require a small frame
• slate or profile sheets for roofing are fixed to the top
• Using pre-prepared material, walls are covered with siding, corrugated sheets, and boards. They are attached to crossbars nailed to the frame along with a box for the future seat
• nail the hinges into the opening and hang them on them
• conduct electricity into a temporary structure, install a lampshade, and screw in a lamp

Inside, now the premises, you can arrange everything cheaply and cheerfully:

• painting
• wallpapered
• plastering and puttying
• cover the floors and place rugs on them

To prevent mustiness and smell coming from the pit in the house, homemade ventilation is installed. Just one plastic pipe, attached to the surface of the rear wall using tin clamps, will allow unpleasant air to escape and fresh air to enter.

To do this, one end is lowered into the cesspool through a cut-out circle on a raised platform for the seat. The other edge is released into the cut roof hole. This design works effectively, providing fresh air for breathing.

When there are no conditions or opportunities to install expensive equipment, a device in the form of powder closets is used. There is no need to dig holes, settling tanks or filtration for them. Under a chair made at a relative elevation, a vessel is installed into which natural needs are fulfilled, and when the container is filled, it is pulled out with a simple movement and taken away.

Of course, this method does not satisfy the conditions of complete, but for temporary use it is quite suitable. How to make a toilet in the country without smell and pumping is presented in the video:

Having your own corner away from centralized engineering systems forces you to think about how to arrange your life more or less comfortably. If from washing machine, the soul (theoretically) can be refused, then you need to go to the toilet somewhere. Therefore, dacha owners have a question: how to make a dacha toilet with cesspool.

Features of a country toilet

Whatever it is called - toilet, toilet, water closet - all these names often refer to a simple wooden booth, under which there is a cesspool. It is she, the cesspool for the toilet in the country, that deserves special attention. After all, the ease of handling and maintenance, as well as the safety of the toilet for the environment, depends on how correctly it is equipped.

There are strict sanitary standards regarding the placement of a water closet with a cesspool on the site; it is better to comply with them so as not to have problems with neighbors and not to poison your own drinking water. Among the requirements:

• 12 meters to the foundation of a residential building, at least 4 meters to outbuildings, 8 meters to a shower or bathhouse.
• To a drinking source - a well, a borehole - 25-30 m.
• It is impossible to place the pit at a distance closer than 4 m to trees and 1 m to bushes.
• There must be at least 1 meter to the neighboring area.

Other features of choosing the location of the pit for a country outdoor toilet:

• If the site is rough, you should not choose the lowest place for construction. Otherwise, the pit will be filled not only with feces, but also with waste and melt water.
• There is also no need to have a point that is too high, otherwise there will be a risk that the structure will collapse due to erosion of the soil.
• Since the cesspool at the dacha will have to be pumped out from time to time, and therefore the sewer trucks will have to be called, it is worth taking care of convenient access; it is advisable that there are no flower beds in the way of the pumping hose. The length of the hose for similar machines is 7-15 meters, this must also be remembered.
• The depth of groundwater also needs to be taken into account. The size of the pit can be any, if they are located lower than 2.5 m. If the groundwater is high, only sealed structures can be used to construct a toilet - tanks, barrels, etc. (we recommend the article “”).

Important! There is another very important point, which needs to be taken into account before digging a hole for a toilet in the country and installing it - this is the wind rose. You won't be able to avoid trouble if the smell from the toilet blows directly onto your neighbor's property.

Pit size

The pit for the toilet should be of such a size that it does not have to be pumped out every month. If only a toilet in a country house with a cesspool is equipped, then its depth is within 1.5 m, the size of the side walls is any, but the optimal width is up to 1.1 m.

Important! You should not make a hole that is too wide - it will be difficult to cover it from above.

It is worth considering that the size of the hole is affected by the type of soil that is available on the site. So loose, sandy soil absorbs up to 95% of liquid waste in 1 month, that is, the size of the pit may be smaller. If the soil is clayey, then it poorly absorbs liquid, so reducing the volume is not recommended.

The depth of the pit cannot be more than 3 meters; if this is not enough, according to calculations, it will have to be pumped out more often. Another option is to make a septic tank for a toilet in a country house with wastewater discharged to filtration fields.

As a working example of a cesspool for an outdoor toilet for 2 people who constantly live in a country house in the summer (May - September), we offer the following dimensions: 1 m x 1 m x 0.8 m. Where, at a depth of 1 m, it protrudes above the ground 0.2-0.3 m, i.e. total working volume: 0.7 x 1 x 0.8 = 0.56 m3. The soil is clayey, but this volume is enough to not think about pumping.

Working example of a cesspool for an outdoor toilet for 2 people

Pit construction options

A DIY pit for a toilet in a country house can be completely different. If there are not many options for digging - only a shovel or an excavator will help, then the design of the tank itself may be different. The service life of the pit depends on how correctly the installation of the pit for the outdoor toilet is carried out. There are 2 large groups regarding tightness: with a filter bottom or sealed containers. As for the materials for constructing the walls of the pit, it can be brick, concrete rings or any other walls - you should learn in detail about each type.

Brick pit

It can be completely sealed or have a filter bottom. At the first stage, the process of arranging a pit is similar - this is digging a pit. Was it dug by the owner himself or used? technical means it doesn’t matter, because the main thing is that the hole is dug. Its size is larger than the required usable volume of the pit. This is necessary for:

• Wall thickness compensation.
• The outside of the structure will be lined with waterproofing, and in order for this to be possible at all, space is needed.

Advice! The shape of the excavated tank is better if it is cubic, in which case the walls will be more convenient to lay.

When arranging the bottom, there will be different technologies for a sealed and filter pit, namely:

• Sealed - to build one, you need to tightly compact the earthen layer at the bottom of the pit and make a 15 cm thick layer of sand on top. This layer also needs to be compacted. Next, the brick halves are laid, loosely. Mesh reinforcement is laid on top. Next, the bottom is filled with concrete with a thickness of at least 15 cm.
• As for how to make a cesspool with a filter bottom at your dacha with your own hands, it’s even easier. You also need a fill of sand, on top of which a layer of large crushed stone/shawl, 15 cm thick, is arranged. In order to build walls at the bottom of such a cesspool for a summer house, a shallow concrete foundation is poured along the perimeter of the filter area.

Brick pit tank

The design of the walls of such a pit is similar for the two types. They are erected using ½ brick. To do this, you need to use only red brick; silicate brick will not work. If it is possible to buy cinder blocks, they will be ideal option. The brickwork is standard.

Once the walls are erected, their entire height is plastered using concrete mortar/bitumen mastic. Final stage- This is to cover the hole with a concrete slab. In the future, install pipes to it or install holes and an outdoor toilet booth on top.

Brick cesspool

Plastic barrel

Before making a cesspool from a plastic barrel, you need to select (buy) a tank of suitable volume. They are sold in specialized stores. Since the tanks are already sealed, an additional gap between the walls of the pit and the container is not needed - 20 cm is enough.

When constructing a pit from a barrel or other sealed container, you must also cement the bottom. The technique is similar to that presented above for brick. There is one important point - at the stage of forming the reinforcing mesh, there should be loops above the surface of the future screed. They will become fasteners for the tank. This technique is needed to prevent the lightweight tank from being pushed to the surface by groundwater.

Important! Since the plastic tank can become deformed, it must first be filled with water during the backfilling process. After this, backfilling and compaction are carried out, only then the water is pumped out.

Cesspool at the dacha made from tires

Concrete rings

The option of creating a toilet pit from ready-made concrete rings is quite convenient. After all, they can be mounted as a constructor. For this, of course, you need special equipment. The technique for arranging the bottom is similar brickwork, but in this case the process of building walls will go much faster. Digging a hole will have to involve a little manual labor, since an excavator will not be able to make it round, and the rings are just like that. Although you can make any shape, and then carry out a longer backfill.

Note! There is a technique for installing concrete rings without the use of special equipment. The rings are not immersed in the finished hole, but are dug in and deepen as the soil is removed. This is done with the required number of rings. The bottom is settled after digging the rings. But this option has ill-conceived aspects - since the ring is dug from the inside, the distance between the walls of the earthen pit and the concrete element will be too small for arranging external waterproofing.

Cesspool made of concrete rings

Concrete pit (monolith)

This option is perhaps the best in terms of tightness. Arranging such a toilet with a cesspool will take a little more time, but the result will be guaranteed if the technology is followed.

How to properly dig a hole is indicated in the description for a brick one; here the technique is similar. The following is the order:

• Fasten sheets of roofing felt to the earthen walls.
• Create a reinforcing mesh around the perimeter of the pit and secure it to the concrete reinforcement of the bottom.
• Begin concreting from the bottom. Next, raise the formwork along the walls and gradually pour concrete. Work on the construction of walls must be completed in 1 day.
• The formwork can be removed after 7 days.
• Leave the tank to harden for a month.

After such drain hole at the dacha it will completely strengthen, it will become absolutely airtight, its service life is tens of years.

Pit for a country toilet made of monolith

Septic tank at the dacha

Making a septic tank for a country toilet is not difficult. However, it is not necessary to buy ready-made systems Once you understand the technology, you can do such an installation yourself.

In order to obtain high-quality filtered wastewater, you need to make 3 tanks using any of the above techniques, and it should be like this:

• The first is the smallest in volume with a sealed bottom. Sewage flows directly from the toilet (house) into it - it settles, filling 2/3 of the tank, and passes into the second.
• The second one also has a sealed bottom, in which anaerobic bacteria work with wastewater. Overflow occurs when approximately half is filled.
• The third tank has a filter bottom - part of the purified liquid waste goes into the soil, part into the filtration field.
• The filtration field is designed in the same way as the filtering bottom of the pit, only its area is approximately 25-30 m².

This system is relevant if you visit your dacha regularly. For a small number of drains there is no point in equipping it.

Standard septic tank layout

A do-it-yourself cesspool in the country and even a septic tank is not a problem. You just need to approach the process extremely carefully. Compliance with technology is the key to success.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other water intake points, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible liner is also used during installation gas equipment. It differs from similar water devices in its manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

The flexible hose for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Thanks to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, there is an upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid, which is made from the following materials:

• Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 °C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity, aluminum braiding is prone to rust.
• Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water line is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
• Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 °C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

The fasteners used are nut-nut and nut-fitting pairs, which are made of brass or of stainless steel. Devices with different permissible temperatures differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used for connecting to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - with hot ones.

When choosing a water line, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that prevents the rubber from releasing toxic components during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, water heaters and other types of equipment, flexible hoses are also used. Unlike water models, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixation, end steel or aluminum reinforcement is used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

• PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
• made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
• bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Santekhkomplekt holding offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and devices for connecting it to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials from well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, each client is assigned a personal manager. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.

Drainage is a drainage and drainage measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the site for a long time, the soil becomes gleyed, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (get wet), you need to urgently take action and drain the site.

Causes of soil waterlogging

There are several reasons for soil waterlogging:

• clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
• aquifer in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
• high groundwater table;
• technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that interfere with natural drainage;
• disruption of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
• The landscape area is located in a lowland, ravine, or hollow. In this case, they play an important role precipitation and the influx of water from higher places.

What are the consequences of excess moisture in the soil?

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

• the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to disruption of air exchange processes, water regime and nutritional regime in the soil;
• oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
• the supply of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become unavailable for absorption;
• intensive breakdown of proteins occurs and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell you at what level groundwater lies

Take a close look at the flora of your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the ground water layers are located:

• perched water - it is best to dig a reservoir in this place;
• at a depth of up to 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges grow - bladderwrack, holly, foxweed, Langsdorff's reed;
• at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass, ;
• from 1 m to 1.5 m – favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse peas, rank;
• from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

• with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow in high beds;
• depth of water layer up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetables, grains, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
• if the groundwater is more than 2 m deep, fruit trees can be grown;
• optimal depth of groundwater for Agriculture– from 3.5 m.

Is site drainage necessary?

Record your observations for at least some time. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along the bypass channel, rather than allowing it to flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

A specialist will give you the exact answer, and we strongly recommend calling him. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness on this issue.

Upon completion of technological and production tasks related to the arrangement of the sewer system in apartment building, industrial building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task is used to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire involved sewerage part, and the test report for internal sewerage and drainage systems will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the facility.

A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, recently a new one has been applied updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.