The leaf roller lays eggs in the fall under the bark of trees, a layer of leaves, and old stumps. In early spring, larvae emerge from them - caterpillars with a green-brown color. There are about 200 eggs in one clutch, so the scale of infection of the flowerbed is quite significant.

On a note!

Leaf roller larvae go through several stages of development, the entire process lasting about 2 months. The threat of flower infection appears in early spring, with the peak of pest activity occurring in May-June. By mid-summer, the caterpillars pupate and after a while turn into butterflies.

There are different ways. Broad-spectrum chemicals are commercially available that easily destroy larvae and resist re-infestation. It is recommended to spray roses against aphids and caterpillars in dry weather early in the morning or in the evening.

• Nitrophen. To get rid of caterpillars on roses at the initial stage of their infection, and to prevent significant damage to the plants, in early spring the crop is sprayed with a Nitrophen solution. The fungicide effectively destroys larvae at the initial stage of their development and protects the plant from repeated attack for about 60 days. One treatment is enough to ensure excellent flowering for the entire season. In 10 l cold water dilute 300 ml of the drug. Roses should be sprayed using a watering can, spray bottle or spray bottle.
• Aktara. Broad-spectrum insecticide. You can get rid of caterpillars on roses in just one treatment. The systemic drug penetrates the leaf blade, the poison is not washed off by rain, and does not lose effectiveness at high temperatures. Poisonous properties are present for about 30 days. This is quite enough to save the entire flowerbed from aphids and caterpillars. Dilute the drug in warm water. For 10 liters of liquid, 8 g of the drug is required. It is allowed to re-treat roses against leaf roller after a month, if necessary.
• Actellik. Professional chemical product for exterminating garden and indoor pests. The plant can be sprayed during any growing season. To prevent infection, roses should be treated in May and early June. The toxic properties last for about a month. The maximum effect is observed during the first 2 hours, when pests receive a dose of poison by contact and die in a few minutes. Subsequently, caterpillars are poisoned during feeding. To prepare a solution, dissolve 2 ml of the drug in 2 liters of cold water.

You can fight green caterpillars on roses using biological agents. The active components gradually disrupt the life processes in the caterpillars’ bodies and kill them within 10 days. The plant must be sprayed twice a month while there is a threat of infection.

On a note!

You can treat roses against aphids and caterpillars with such preparations as Intavir, Iskra bio, Fitoverm.

Folk remedies

If your rose is being eaten by caterpillars, you need to act quickly. A large colony of pests can destroy a flowerbed in a few months. Treat roses for caterpillars folk remedies can be done at any time during the growing season of the plant.

• Mustard powder. Sprinkle the paths in the flowerbed, and also use mustard to prepare the solution. Add powder and a little laundry soap to the water. Spray the leaves. Properties last for several days in dry weather. If pests are detected again, repeat spraying every 3 days.
• Ash. The fight against black caterpillars on roses is not complete without wood ash. The same remedy saves flowers from aphids, leaf roller larvae and many other pests. Ash is sprinkled on the soil in the flowerbed and watered generously. The active components penetrate the plant juice, making it bitter and unattractive to caterpillars. A solution with the addition of laundry soap and ash is sprayed onto the leaves. The product irritates the skin of the larvae and forces them to leave the plant.
• Sagebrush. Poisonous plant not only repels larvae with a persistent odor, but also leads to death. 1 kg of wormwood is poured into 3 liters of water, boiled over low heat for 20 minutes. Let it brew for at least 2 hours. Spray the bush and water the soil.

You need to systematically fight caterpillars using folk remedies. If the flower bed is heavily infested, one time will not be enough. Methods people's struggle are the same for vegetables, shrubs and trees. , plum or roses are the same.

To reduce the number of larvae, they are collected by hand. Repels with solution table vinegar, ammonia, boric acid, tobacco, garlic tincture, ordinary soapy water with added salt, baking soda. You can get rid of pests with live plants by planting calendula, marigolds, and peppermint nearby.

Roses are not only a beautiful flowering plant, but also quite troublesome to grow. The rose bush is constantly attacked by various pests. To protect the rose from them, you need to carry out preventive spraying, starting from the moment the buds swell.

There are holes in the rose leaves, what should I do?

Holes on the leaves of a rose bush are the work of several pests (chafer beetles, caterpillars of various butterflies, leaf rollers and cocoon moths). Let's consider measures to combat them:

1. Chafer. This insect eats irregularly shaped holes on rose leaves from May to June. However, an adult beetle causes much less problems than its larvae living in the soil. With their vital activity they make the rose bush weak, and young plants may even die. Control measures: adult beetles are collected and destroyed. The rose bush must be treated with bifenthrin.
2. Butterfly caterpillars. It could be larvae different butterflies. First, holes appear on the leaves small sizes, but in a short time only veins may remain from the leaf. Control measures: manual collection, treatment with any insecticides.
3. Leaf roller. The caterpillars of this insect feed on the buds and pulp of rose leaves. Small holes remain on them, and the leaves themselves become deformed. If there are many such damaged leaves, the bush weakens due to lack of nutrients. In rose flowers, the caterpillar eats away the stamens, pistils and petals. At the end of May, a silvery web appears on the leaves - a sign that the caterpillar will soon become a butterfly. Such leaves must be removed along with the cocoon. Control measures: for prevention in the spring, you need to spray rose bushes with a nitrophen solution (before the buds open). 0.3 kg of the substance is diluted in 10 liters of water. In May, preventive spraying is continued using bifenthrin (it is in the drug Talstar, Semaphore). If a leaf roller has already appeared on the rose bush, you need to act differently. If the number of caterpillars is small, they must be collected manually and destroyed. It is much more difficult to deal with large concentrations of this insect. In this case, insecticides Aktaru and Decis are used. It is also necessary to carry out measures to catch leaf roller butterflies before they lay eggs, from which caterpillars will appear next year. You can make effective traps yourself: houses are glued together from paper, inside which sheets with a sticky substance containing pheromones are laid out. Such traps attract leaf roller butterflies. Traps are hung not only near rose bushes, but also in the garden. This product will get rid of a large number of insects.
4. Cocoon worms. These butterflies have caterpillars that are gray, orange and white. The caterpillars gnaw irregularly shaped holes in the leaves of the rose bush and, in large concentrations, completely expose the branches. Cocoon moths can be easily recognized by their “tents” made of cobwebs. Control measures: you need to manually destroy insect nests, treat them with Talstar or Semaphore. Treatment with Actellik, Decis or Fosbecid gives a good effect.

Care for your roses properly and eliminate their pests in a timely manner!

Issue #28

— How does rhubarb reproduce?

— Rhubarb is propagated by seeds and vegetative way, most often by dividing the rhizomes of 4-5 year old plants. Rhubarb from seeds is grown through seedlings. Seeds are sown in early spring on a ridge in open ground. During the growing season, the row spacing is loosened, weeded and the plants are watered 2-3 times. In the second year, as soon as the buds appear (late March - early April), the plants are dug up, the best ones in terms of the number of long and thick cuttings or large buds and well-developed rhizomes are selected and transplanted to a permanent place.
When propagating rhubarb by dividing bushes, in early spring the bushes are dug up, their roots are divided into parts with a knife so that each has 1 - 2 growth buds with a well-developed rhizome. From one root you can get 5-7 planting seeds. Divided rhizomes are immediately planted. When planting, you must ensure that the apical bud is covered with soil by no more than 1-2 cm, and the soil is pressed tightly to the roots. If the soil is not moist enough when planting, it needs to be watered.

— Holes appeared on the leaves of the rose. Perhaps it is a disease or some kind of pest? Tell me how to help my rose?

- It’s a pity that I didn’t see the leaves of this rose of yours. It is difficult to make a “diagnosis” from such a meager description. But I can say one thing - if there are holes, then these are pests (although they are not visible)! This means that it is necessary to use insecticides appropriate for pest control (Aktara, Fufanon, Aktelik, etc.)

— The rose gained color, even a small bud appeared, which then suddenly dried up. What happened to the rose? How can I help her so that she blooms again?

— Several reasons can lead to the fact that an adult plant is in right time does not bloom. Most likely reasons: oversupply minerals, dry air, thrips. They don't like roses:
cold irrigation water; overheating in hot weather; injury to roots during transplantation or tillage; emergence of pests and diseases. The cause may also be the appearance of spider mites. If there is a pest, get rid of it by spraying it with Akletik, and after a week with Aktara.

— Beet leaves curl and dry out. Tell me what to do?

— In July, aphids appear on the dining room. It damages the beet leaves from the underside, causing the entire plate to become deformed and twisted, and the leaf petioles become bent. The leaves turn yellow, wither and dry out. Beet aphids damage not only beets, but also spinach, rhubarb, pumpkin, parsnips, and wild plants - nettles, sow thistles, and thistles. If you do not use beet leaves, you can now treat them with any insecticide against aphids. If you still don’t want to use chemicals, you can periodically spray the plants with an infusion of onion peels (200 g per 10 liters of water).

— This year I have very few Victoria berries. There are even bushes that have no berries at all. Although the leaves are large. I noticed that last year there was no Victoria on these bushes either. What to do with these bushes? Why does this happen?

- If you have not seen normal berries on garden strawberries since the moment you purchased them, for more than one year in a row, the problem is in the planting material. There are so-called weedy “varieties” of strawberries that do not bloom at all, others form empty flowers or small crooked berries even with the most good care. Such plants are usually larger than cultivated ones and produce countless tendrils. Of course, you will have to get rid of them. Perhaps the variety is not suitable for the conditions of your site - perhaps it is too capricious and demanding of care.

— Do I need to prune strawberries? How can I treat it now if the leaves are all full of holes? What to feed in the fall?

— Personally, I recommend trimming strawberry leaves after fruiting. Especially if there are signs of disease and pest damage. You cannot cut it too low so as not to damage the growing point. Ideally, there should be 3-4 leaves left in the middle of the bush, which will provide nutrition to the plant in the fall. To prevent the development of diseases, plantings are watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate or ready-made products (for example, “Maxim”), which help prevent the development of diseases on plants. After this, the ground around the bushes is slightly loosened. If there were pests on the plants, when the first leaves grow after pruning, treat the plantings with insecticides (Fufanon, Karbofos, etc.).
Then you need to feed both the old bushes and the newly planted ones with organic fertilizers. It is best to use natural products for this, such as humus or mullein infusion (1:10). They simply mulch the soil around the bush with humus, and water it accordingly with mullein. You can prepare the following fertilizer: any sealed container is filled halfway with any grass (tops, weeds, etc.), then nitrogen fertilizer is added and everything is filled with water to the brim. Then it all ferments and after about 10 days it is ready for consumption. This “living water” is used in a diluted form (in a 1:1 ratio). One strawberry bush requires 1 liter of diluted fertilizer. This fertilizer works better than any humus, and also neutralizes soil acidity. Can be applied mineral fertilizers- phosphorus and potassium. There is no need to apply nitrogen fertilizers in the second half of summer.

Spider mites on roses (photo)

Spider mites are especially dangerous for roses in dry, hot summers. The optimal conditions for its development are a temperature of +29...+31 °C with air humidity below 35%. Under such conditions, the number of ticks increases rapidly, because every 10-15 days a new generation of the pest appears. Mites suck out the cell sap from the leaves, as a result of which small light spots (pricks) appear on them, the leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off.

The most effective in the fight against spider mites are Iskra-M and Fufanon. Spraying roses in the presence of a mite must be repeated after 10-12 days until its harmfulness decreases. How else can you treat roses against spider mites to get rid of this pest? At temperatures above +22 °C, colloidal sulfur or “Tiovit Jet” can be used. These drugs inhibit the reproduction of ticks.

Treatment of roses, as well as other plants, should be carried out in the evening or morning hours. If simultaneous protection against diseases and pests is necessary, all recommended insecticides can be mixed with fungicides immediately before spraying, except Bordeaux mixture.

Look at the photo of this rose pest and measures to combat it:

Processing roses in the photo
Spider mite in the photo

On the leaves of roses and rose hips at the end of June-July you can see regularly cut oval or completely round holes.

Rose pest leafcutter bee in the photo

This is the job of the leafcutter bee, which uses them to build its nest. Having chosen a suitable ready-made cavity - an abandoned bee burrow, a barbel burrow or an earthworm burrow, the bee begins to stuff it with carelessly cut pieces of rough leaves of oak, grape, or hawthorn. This plug serves to protect the nest.

After the cork is made, the bee begins to cut out oval pieces of the more delicate leaves of roses, lilacs, acacias, and rose hips. Sitting on the sheet, she carefully “cuts” it, like scissors, starting from the edge and gradually turning in a circle. First from large leaves, covering about a third of the circumference of the channel, the outer layer of the cell is made, so that the individual pieces overlap each other, and their lower ends are folded in, forming the bottom of the cell. After this, the builder closes the gaps remaining between the first pieces with smaller pieces of leaves and thickens the walls.

As you can see in the photo, this rose pest, in order to seal a cell filled with food, cuts out completely round pieces of leaves:

Cut oval or perfectly round holes after leaf cutter bee
Damaged rose leaf in the photo

In this case, the diameter of the first of them is exactly equal to the diameter of the cell, and the subsequent ones are cut out large and turn out to be concave inward, forming the bottom of the next cell. The first cell is followed by the second and so on. The largest nest of a leafcutter bee has up to 17 cells. In total, it takes more than 1,000 pieces of leaves to build the nest, including the plug.

The finished nest of a leaf-cutter bee is a long cylinder that easily breaks down into individual cells. The leaves from which each one is made are easy to disassemble. Later it is more difficult to do this, since, when pupating, the larva releases a sticky liquid into the spaces between the pieces of leaves, which? solidifying, it holds them together.

You can protect roses from this bee by spraying the plants in the late evening with one of the systemic preparations that destroy aphids and other pests.

How to deal with rose pests: bronze and sawfly

Golden bronze on roses (photo)
A shiny green beetle with a coppery-golden hue loves yellow and white roses (photo)

The Golden Bronze Beetle is a shiny green beetle with a coppery-golden hue and is very fond of yellow and white roses.

The beetle is quite large (10-15 mm long and 12-14 mm wide). The underside is bronze-green with a metallic sheen. The elytra have transverse thin, irregularly shaped, white stripes.

Gardeners call it the "Chafer bug." The larva of the bronze beetle lives in the ground, it is six-legged, thick, white, up to 60 mm long, very similar to the larva of the cockchafer, but unlike the latter, it feeds on humus and does not damage the roots.

The beetles fly from May to August, damaging the flowers of not only roses, but also white lilies and fruit plants.

There are several types of sawflies.
Rozanny sawfly in the photo

Slimy sawfly in the photo

Pink, slimy,
Sawfly combed sawfly in the photo

Descending sawfly in the photo comb-moustached, descending

- eat leaves from the edges or scrape off the upper skin of the leaf, eat holes on the leaves. And the descending sawfly, appearing at the top of a young shoot, penetrates the shoot, makes a passage up to 4 cm long there, as a result the shoot hangs, the leaves on it wither. Sawflies overwinter in the soil in cocoons.

To combat these pests, the same drugs are used as against aphids.

Here you can see photos of rose pests, the descriptions of which are presented above:
Sawfly pest of roses (photo)

Spider mite pest of roses in the photo

Fighting aphids: how to treat roses to get rid of the pest
aphids on roses (photo)

Damages roses and rose hips, harms greenhouses and open ground . The pest, among other types of aphids, is quite large and shiny. Green, sometimes brown with very long black antennae.

In the spring, larvae hatch from overwintered eggs and turn into wingless females. Among subsequent generations, winged female dispersers appear, flying to other plants, where they form new colonies. Ten generations or more develop during the year.

The number of aphids in open ground usually increases in June, and they cause damage until the end of summer. Aphids settle mainly on the ends of young shoots and buds; there are few aphids on the leaves. Damaged rose shoots often become bent and the buds do not open.

How to get rid of aphids on roses using effective drugs? Spraying roses against aphids begins when the first larvae appear and is repeated as needed every 10-12 days until the aphids completely disappear, alternating for this purpose “Inta-VIR”, “Fufanon”, “Konfidor”, “Commander”, “Alatar” , or "Biotlin". How to treat roses against aphids in especially hot weather? In this case, you can use Iskra Zolotaya, Iskra Double Effect, Iskra-M, Zubr and Tanrek.

In the fight against aphids on roses great importance the application of chemicals begins at the first appearance of the pest; in the future, with repeated sprayings, it is necessary to alternate the above-listed drugs for greater effectiveness of their action.

In nature, aphids are destroyed by the lacewing and ladybug.

Rose weevil pest and its control

Rose pest weevil (photo)
Weevil in the photo

Weevils (leaf beetles) are pests that gnaw the edges of the leaves of all types of roses. The leaves are damaged by fairly large beetles (up to 1 cm). They are black and gray and flightless. They lead an active lifestyle at night, and during the day they hide under lumps of soil. That's why we don't see them. But not only weevil beetles are dangerous for roses, but also its legless larvae, which are just as large and colorful. Ivory. The larvae live exclusively in the ground and eat roots.

If the pest population is large, rose bushes may die. Due to severe damage to the leaves, their useful area is reduced and the plants wither, and then there are weakened roots.

Weevils pose a particular danger to bushes growing in the shade of trees, in dense plantings, in quiet areas with poor ventilation, as well as old bushes weakened by time and poor agricultural practices.

Beetles can be controlled by spraying roses in the evening at sunset with one of the insecticides recommended for destruction.

Beetles can be collected manually at nightfall by the light of a flashlight, of course, if there are not too many of them yet.

Rose pests: leafhoppers, cutworms and gallworms

When the pest population is large, damaged leaves fall prematurely
Rose leafhopper in the photo

The roseate leafhopper in adulthood resembles an apple leaf flea beetle. The larva is white or pale yellow with a wedge-shaped, pointed abdomen. The length of the larva is 2-3 mm, width is 0.8 mm.

Cicada larvae settle on the underside of leaves and suck out the juice. Top surface the leaves change color, they turn white, acquiring a marble color. When the pest population is large, damaged leaves fall off prematurely. Roses growing in warm, sheltered places are especially affected by leafhoppers.

The pest itself is a small white-yellow insect with two pairs of wings, which in a calm state fold over the back like a roof. The length of an adult insect is 3.5 mm, width is 0.7 mm.

The eggs overwinter on branches at the base of the buds and in the forks. The larvae appear during bud break. Develops during May-June. Unlike the larvae of aphids and psyllids, they are very mobile: when disturbed, they quickly run away to the opposite side of the leaf.

At the end of June, the larvae develop wing rudiments and turn into nymphs. At the beginning of July, leafhoppers fledge and adult insects appear. Winged leafhoppers, like larvae and nymphs, settle on the underside of leaves, sucking the juice from them. After fledging, the adult leafhopper leaves the leaf on which it was nursed and flies to grass and other plants or branches.

On leaves damaged by the leafhopper - whitish with marbled colors - white skins remain on the underside after the molting of larvae and nymphs.

In addition to roses, leafhoppers damage rose hips and other plants from the Rosaceae family.

How to deal with these rose pests in the garden? When fighting leafhoppers, use the same drugs as when fighting aphids. When spraying, make sure that the underside of the leaf is thoroughly covered with the poison solution.

Cutworms are caterpillars (photo)
Rose pest: Cutworm in photo

Cutworms are caterpillars that live in the soil and feed mainly at night, so often only traces of their activity are visible.

If there is a lot of damage, use pest control drugs (the same as against aphids), spraying in the evening after sunset.

Nutcrackers cause the formation of characteristic knobby growths - galls (photo)
Nutcrackers in the photo

Nutcrackers cause the formation of characteristic knobby growths - galls. They are capable of destroying the entire rosehip crop and depleting the bush. With severe damage, growth decreases and the winter hardiness of plants decreases. The gallworms overwinter in the form of larvae in damaged fruits, adult insects fly, and infection of young ovaries occurs in late May - early June.

In the fight against gallworm, it is necessary to spray the rose hips twice immediately after flowering with the same pesticides that are used against aphids and other pests. At the same time, carry out mechanical control (cut and burn emerging galls).

Thrips pests of rose leaves (with photo)

Small (up to 1 mm) sucking pest. Larvae, nymphs and adults of this pest feed on buds, flowers, leaves and young shoots of roses. They are light yellow in color.

As you can see in the photo, thrips weaken roses by sucking juices from leaves, buds and flowers:

Larvae, nymphs and adults of this pest feed on buds, flowers, leaves and young shoots of roses (photo)
Thrips in the photo

Buds and flowers damaged by pests, especially those in light colors, become covered with characteristic small red specks. The flower becomes disheveled and quickly fades. At the base of the petals, pests are clearly visible to the naked eye. Small yellow spots appear on the leaves. They acquire a silvery tint, as if damaged by spider mites.

These pests of rose leaves overwinter in top layer soil and under plant debris. Roses that are most at risk are those growing in warm, dry places, such as against the walls of a house, on south-facing terraces, or near tiled or asphalt paths and areas. In spring, thrips feed on weeds, then fly to rose bushes.

In the fight against thrips, in case of severe damage, the same preparations are used to spray roses as in the fight against aphids.

How to spray roses against pests: preparations for treating plants

In this section of the article you will learn how to treat roses from pests in your garden.

"Akarin" is a biological preparation against insect pests. It has a wide spectrum of action: all types of herbivorous mites, sawflies, leaf rollers, thrips, as well as all types of aphids.

The drug does not pollute environment, quickly breaks down in soil and water. The waiting period from the last treatment to harvesting is no more than 3 days. Remains highly effective in hot weather.

Preparation of a working solution for treating roses against pests: pour 0.5 liters of water into a bucket, open the ampoule and pour its contents into a bucket of water and mix thoroughly, then bring the working solution to the required volume and mix again.

Spray plants in dry, clear and windless weather in the evening or morning, evenly wetting the leaves. Optimal temperature during treatments - from +18 to +34 C. The period of protective action is from 3 to 5 days. The speed of exposure is 4-8 hours.

When used on private farms, do not mix with other drugs. Not phytotoxic. Storage of the working solution is not allowed. The shelf life of the drug is 2 years.

"Agravertin" is a biological insectoacaricide (anthelminth). This domestic product is a new generation of plant protection products, successfully combining high efficiency, selectivity, ultra-low doses of active substance consumption and soft sanitary and hygienic properties. environmental characteristics. Treatment should be carried out in the presence of pests.

"Agravertin" is a natural, environmentally friendly, enteric-contact drug for pest control, isolated from a non-pathogenic soil fungus.

To destroy pests on indoor plants The ampoule of the drug should be dissolved in 1.5 liters of water. Spraying is carried out in the evening 2-3 times with an interval of 3-4 days.

The drug is highly effective against spider mites, red mites, all types of openly sitting aphids, and thrips. Valid on nervous system insect, causing first paralysis and then death. Feeding and physical activity stop 11-16 hours after treatment, the death of pests occurs on the 2-3rd day after treatment, and the maximum effect from using the drug occurs on the 5-6th day.

The drug is used to treat plants by spraying with any type of sprayer that provides fine atomization and uniform wetting of the treated surface. To protect against pests, roses are sprayed in dry, clear, windless weather at a temperature of +18...+20°C, when precipitation is unlikely in the first 8-10 hours. Light precipitation or heavy dew reduces the effectiveness of the drug.

To prepare the working solution, do not use food containers; carry out processing in the absence of children and animals. Store ampoules separately from food products and medications, in a dark, inaccessible place.

"Fitoverm" is a biological insecticide and acaricide. Recommended for controlling mites, aphids and thrips on roses.

Dissolve the contents of the ampoule (4 ml) in water. Spray the plants with the resulting solution when a pest appears.

Spraying roses against pests is carried out with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather in the morning and evening hours, evenly wetting the leaves. In protected ground, mass death of pests occurs after 6-8 hours, in open ground - 8-16 hours. The duration of the protective effect is from 7 to 20 days after treatment.

The drug is dangerous for bees, do not apply treatment during flowering. Dangerous for fish, do not allow it to enter water bodies.

“Spark Double Effect” is a universal tablet against insect pests that successfully protects plants from more than 60 types of pests.

Advantages of this remedy for rose pests:

• Versatility and quick action, allowing it to be used as an ambulance.
• The action is enhanced by the addition of a second active component.
• The presence of potassium fertilizer in the composition, which allows the plant to accelerate the recovery of the damaged part. Today this is the only dual-action insecticide.
• Low cost of treatment combined with high efficiency, especially against weevils and aphids.
• Easily dissolves in water.
• Does not accumulate in plants.

"Iskra Zolotaya" is a highly effective universal preparation for the destruction of pests, which has a contact and systemic effect.

Advantages of the drug:

• Highly effective against a wide range of dangerous pests: whiteflies, aphids, thrips and other insects of flower and ornamental crops.
• Long-lasting protective effect. After spraying, the drug is absorbed into the upper cellular layers of the leaves and spreads throughout the above-ground part of the plant. Thanks to this, the drug is not washed off by rain or watering, remains in plants for more than 25 days, protects them from pests that have flown from other areas, and protects shoots that appear after treatment.
• Destroys insects resistant to other drugs.
• It works flawlessly in hot weather, which is especially important for the southern regions.
• When used according to instructions, it is highly safe for humans and warm-blooded animals, birds, fish, beneficial insects, and earthworms.

The drug is available in the form of liquid and powder, packaged in ampoules of 5 ml and vials of 10 ml, drug powder - in bags of 40 g.

To prepare a working solution of a liquid drug, pour 1-2 liters of clean water into a bucket, open the ampoule or bottle, pour the required amount of the drug into a bucket of water and mix thoroughly. Bring the working solution to the required volume and mix again.

Iskra Zolotaya powder combines all the advantages of Iskra Zolotaya in an ampoule and has a number of additional advantages.

“Iskra Zolotaya” in powder is a special form of increased safety. The preparative form is 5-10 times safer than drugs from other groups (pyrethroids, organophosphates).

“Golden Iskra” powder contains nutritional supplements, implementing the idea contained in “Iskra Double Effect”; 40 g of the drug contains 1 g of active ingredient, the rest is an effective supplement.

How to treat roses against pests: preparations for spraying bushes

If you don’t know what to spray roses against pests, use the following products.

"Confidor" is a water-soluble, systemic insecticide with contact-intestinal action against sucking and gnawing pests. Used for spraying plants during periods of mass pest emergence.

The working solution is prepared immediately before treatment. 2-3 liters of water are poured into a bucket, the required amount of the drug is measured (in accordance with consumption rates) and poured into a bucket of water, mixed thoroughly, then the solution is brought to the required volume (5-10 liters) and mixed again.

Spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, preferably in the evening (18-22 hours) or in the morning (up to 10 hours), evenly wetting the leaves, 4-6 hours before the rain.

It is necessary to avoid contact of the working solution with neighboring crops. Strictly observe the waiting period after processing. Do not spray against the wind.

The effect of the drug begins immediately after contact with pests or when they eat the treated plant surface. Already in the first hours the food stops. The maximum effect occurs within the first day after use. Duration of action of the drug is up to 4 weeks, depending on weather conditions (precipitation, temperature), method of application and the number of pests.

It is prohibited to pour the drug and working solution into ponds and water sources. Spraying of plants should be carried out in the late evening or early morning, when there is no active bee flight.

"Commander" is a highly effective universal drug for the destruction of aphids, thrips, and whiteflies. The drug has contact and systemic effects. It penetrates the upper cellular layers of leaves and provides long-term protection against pests. Thanks to its properties, “Commander” is not washed off by rain and, most importantly, unlike many pyrethroid drugs, it works reliably in hot weather.

The drug protects shoots that have grown after treatment; It is enough to treat the upper side of the leaves to completely protect the plant, while the toxicity of the drug is 7.5 times lower than that of conventional insecticides. When using "Commander", as a rule, one treatment per season is sufficient.

"Commander", packaged in 1 ml ampoules, is very convenient to use.

To get the maximum effect, spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution, wetting the leaves evenly. Carry out the treatment in dry, windless weather in the morning or evening. The optimal air temperature during processing is from +12 to +25 “C. The maximum effect on insects occurs 1-2 days after treatment. The period of protective action is at least 20 days.

When used on private farms, it should not be mixed with other drugs.

"Commander" is dangerous for bees, so do not apply the treatment during flowering. "Tanrek" is a highly effective product for protecting flower crops from pests. To protect against aphids, wildflowers, thrips, and whiteflies, you need 5 ml of Tanrek. Dissolve the indicated dose rate of the drug in 1 liter of water, mix, then add water to 10 liters and mix again. During the growing season of plants, use 10 liters of working solution per 100 m2. Spray with freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather early in the morning or evening.

The speed of action of the drug on pests is within 24 hours, and the period of protective action is 20-25 days. Not phytotoxic. Release date for handmade: 7 days after treatment.

When using Tanrek on private farms, it should not be mixed with other drugs.

"Iskra-M from caterpillars." Sawflies, cutworms, etc. cause enormous harm to roses. To combat them, a special preparation “Iskra-M for caterpillars” was created. This drug has a fast effect. Successfully used in greenhouses.

Sergei Iskra solves almost all problems of pest control, and alternating these drugs prevents pests from becoming accustomed to them.

To get the maximum effect, spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution, wetting the leaves evenly. Carry out the treatment in dry, windless weather in the evening or morning.

The optimal air temperature during processing is from +12 to +25°C. The maximum effect on insects occurs 1-2 days after treatment. The period of protective action is at least 20 days. When used on private farms, it should not be mixed with other drugs.

Spraying is carried out during the period of mass appearance of pests. The waiting period is 20 days.

"Zubr" is a systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action for the destruction of insect pests on plants.

After spraying, it quickly penetrates the leaves, spreads throughout the plant and provides long-term protection to treated and new young stems and leaves. Pests feeding on such leaves die within a few hours after treatment. Within 1-2 days, almost all harmful beetles and larvae die.

The significant advantages of the preparation “Zubr” are its high efficiency even in hot weather and the fact that it is not washed off from plants by rain. The mechanism of action eliminates the acquisition of pest resistance to the drug and guarantees 100% results.

The preparation "Zubr" is highly effective against sucking pests (aphids, whiteflies and thrips) on flower crops.

The drug is available in two packages: 1 ml and 5 ml. The contents of the ampoule (5 ml) are designed to prepare 50 liters of working solution.

For ease of use of the drug, you can first prepare a concentrate by diluting 5 ml in 1 liter of water, and then diluting 200 ml of concentrate in 10 liters of water to prepare a working solution. The concentrate and working solution must be used on the day of preparation. Treat plants when pests appear in dry, windless weather in the morning or evening, evenly wetting the leaves.

"Aktara" is a drug with enteric contact and systemic action. It is used to protect flower crops from a complex of pests.

"Aktara" has good rain resistance. If it rains 2 hours after treatment, then there is no need to re-treat.

The drug penetrates into the leaves of plants, which promotes long-term and effective protection regardless of weather conditions. At the same time, the drug does not penetrate potato tubers.

"Aktara" has proven itself in protecting potted and flower crops from aphids, whiteflies, thrips, scale insects and false scale insects. To protect potted flower plants when spraying, dissolve 4 g of the drug in 5 l of water, the flow rate of the working fluid is 2 l/100 m2.

On flower and ornamental crops, to protect against aphids and whiteflies, 4 g of the drug is diluted in 8 liters of water - this amount is enough to treat 80 m2.

Against thrips, 4 g of the drug should be dissolved in 5 liters of water. This amount is enough to process 50 m2.

"Aktara" can be used not only by spraying, but also by applying it to the soil along with watering. Thus, on potted plants to protect against aphids, whiteflies, thrips, scale insects and false scale insects, the drug can be used by watering the soil under the plants.

When watering, the consumption rate of the drug is 1 g/10 l of water, with plant heights up to 40 cm. The consumption rate of working fluid is 10 l/100 m2 (250 pots).

Period of protective action: 14-28 days when spraying plants; for soil application - 40-60 days.

The advantages of the drug are:

• wide temperature range at which it is effective (from +10 to +30 ° C);
• easily dissolves in water and does not generate dust, available in the form of granules;
• safe for humans and the environment.

What else can you spray roses against pests?

Here we describe what else you can spray roses against pests to get rid of insects.

“Molniya” is a drug for exterminating insect pests of ornamental and other crops on private farms. It is distinguished by a fast initial and long-lasting protective effect. The drug is economical and easy to use, meets international standards quality and safety of use.

Prepare a solution for spraying plants immediately before treatment. Pour 1-2 liters of water into a bucket, open the ampoule (2 ml) or bottle (10 ml), pour the required amount of the drug into a bucket of water and move carefully, then bring the working solution to 10 liters and mix again.

For best results, spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather in the morning or evening. Apply the working solution using a sprayer, giving a fine spray on the underside and top of the leaves. When spraying, it is necessary to ensure uniform wetting of the leaves. The optimal temperature for treatments is from +12 to +25°C.

The speed of impact on insects is within the first hour after treatment. The period of protective action is at least 14 days. To prevent insects from becoming accustomed to the drug, the use of insecticides from different chemical groups should be alternated.

When used on private farms, do not mix with other drugs.

This product against rose pests is dangerous for bees, so do not treat during flowering. Do not allow the drug to get into bodies of water.

"Fufanon" is a means to combat insect pests.

In the fight against numerous pests of garden crops, we are forced to use different kinds drugs. "Fufanon" is one of them. This is an analogue of Karbofos.

When preparing the Fufanon working solution, pour 1-2 liters of water into a bucket, open the ampoule, pour 5 ml of the drug into a bucket of water and mix thoroughly.

Spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather in the morning or evening, wetting the leaves evenly. The optimal temperature for treatments is from +12 °C to +25 °C. Avoid contact of the working solution with neighboring crops. Strictly observe the waiting period after processing. Do not spray against the wind.

The speed of impact on insects is within the first hour after spraying. To prevent insects from becoming accustomed to the drug, the use of insecticides from different chemical groups should be alternated. The period of protective action of “Fufanon” is at least 14 days.

Fufanon is dangerous for bees, so do not treat the plant during flowering. Dangerous for fish - do not allow the drug to get into water bodies.

"Actellik" is a pest control product for a wide range of crops in different conditions their cultivation (in a greenhouse, in a garden, in a vegetable garden).

In greenhouses it is effective against pests, including spider mites, whiteflies, aphids, thrips, with a waiting period of 3 days between the last treatment with the drug and harvest.

Actellik has a wider spectrum of action than pyrethroid drugs because it contains organophosphorus compounds. It causes the death of pests through contact action (drops of working fluid falling on the outer covers of the insect); intestinal (the drug enters the pest’s body along with food), as well as fumigative action (the effect of drug vapor on pests).

Actellik’s ability to destroy pests with its vapors makes the drug indispensable when it is necessary to treat hard-to-reach places. Redistribution of the drug throughout the plant enhances its effect on pests living on the underside of the leaf.

Actellik is used by spraying plants. 15-30 ml of the drug is stirred in 10 liters of water. Spray if there are pests on plants. Repeated treatment (if necessary) - with an interval of at least 5 days. The consumption rate of working fluid is 4-7 liters per 100 m2.

To successfully combat whitefly, 3-4 times treatment is recommended. Such a spraying schedule will disrupt the pest development cycle and provide high-quality plant protection from both larvae and adults. Pest control in the wintering stage is less effective.

To protect against spider mites and thrips, two and three times treatment is recommended with an interval of 7-10 days.

One spray is enough against aphids.

For high-quality spraying, use a sprayer with a fine-droplet or fog-forming spray, which ensures uniform coverage and wetting of the leaf surface of plants.

Warm and humid conditions of protected soil enhance the effect of the drug in vapors and ultimately increase its effectiveness.

In open ground, Actellik is used against aphids, moths, beetles, butterflies, caterpillars, mites, and whiteflies.

"Aktellik" can also be used to combat household insects (cockroaches, flies, fleas, ticks, mosquitoes). Read the instructions for the drug.

"Pochin" is a soil-dwelling insecticide against soil-dwelling insect pests of flower and other horticultural crops.

To apply the drug evenly, fill a liter container 3/4 full with dry sand, add the contents of the bag (30 g) and mix thoroughly.

The drug is not phytotoxic. The effect of the drug appears within 24 hours after use. The period of protective action is 6 weeks. Pochin should not be mixed with other drugs. Insects do not become accustomed to the drug.

"Zemlin" is a product for protecting flower crops from soil-dwelling insect pests.

The contents of the package (30 g of the drug) are designed to treat 10 m2 of flower crops.

To uniformly apply the drug, fill a half-liter container with dry sand or sawdust, add the contents of the bag and mix thoroughly.

For flower crops, apply the mixture to the soil before planting.

"Alatar" is a universal drug for controlling insect pests in gardens and private farms. Destroys 28 types of pests! Deals a double blow to pests, as it contains two active ingredients at once.

Consumption of the drug - 5 ml per 10 liters of water for spraying 100 m2 of vegetable or flower crops or from 2 to 5 fruit trees depending on their age and crown size.

It will protect apple, pear and quince trees from codling moths, leaf rollers, sawflies, flower beetles, copperheads, apple moths, aphids, and moths.

The frequency of spraying is no more than two, the waiting period before harvesting is 30 days.

Good day to all readers!

Insect pests can cause such serious damage to roses that it can lead to weakening and even death of the plant. Correct and timely measures taken to combat uninvited guests simultaneously reduce the risk of the queen of flowers being affected by infectious diseases.

It is necessary to begin preventive measures with the preparation of protective equipment - rubber gloves and respirators. After finishing the treatments protective equipment, wash your face and hands with running water and soap.

Pest attacks are most dangerous during growth and flowering. All pests are divided into sucking, gnawing and miners.

Sucking insects and their larvae feed on liquid. They pierce the tissues of a leaf or shoot and draw out the contents of the cells. The natural course of physiological processes is disrupted.

The main sign of the destructive activity of insects is a change in the color of the leaves, their curling into a tube of the leaf plate and premature fall of the foliage. Such results appear when the plant is infested with aphids, mites, leafhoppers or scale insects. Pests can appear both indoors and outdoors.

Aphid

Green aphid- the largest species of all. A shiny insect of green, less often brown color with long black antennae. In the spring, larvae hatch from eggs laid in the fall. Over time, they grow into wingless females. From the eggs they lay, winged insects appear, which settle throughout the area, creating new colonies.

If you don’t fight aphids, more than a dozen generations develop over the summer. The most favorite habitats of aphids are young shoots and buds - these are the most delicate integumentary tissues. The leaves are tougher, and aphids settle on them less often. Damaged shoots become bent and the buds do not open.

rose aphid. Found on rose bushes in numerous colonies. They settle on the underside of the leaf, on young shoots, peduncles, and buds. The larvae, barely visible to the naked eye, quickly grow into wingless female founders of new colonies, laying up to hundreds of larvae.

Hatched larvae are capable of laying up to 100 larvae each after 8-10 days. And so all summer. Winged individuals - males and females - appear towards the end of summer. Mated females lay fertilized eggs, from which larvae hatch only in the spring.

Pest control measures:

Chemical means

After removing the cover, the bushes are treated with a strong urea solution, a half-liter jar of the product is dissolved in 10 liters of water. The bushes are sprayed with the solution at an air temperature not lower than +5 C. When the first insects appear, anti-pest products are used, such as Inta-Vir, Iskra, Tanrek. You need to repeat the treatment after 15-20 days. These drugs have a systemic effect, quickly penetrate the plant tissue and are almost not washed off by rain.

Aphids spread throughout the plantings and are guarded by ants. Having scared away the ants, we leave the aphids unprotected, and they will be destroyed by natural enemies. You can drive ants away from the plant using Phenaxin powder.

Folk remedies

You can fight aphids without using chemicals. A small number of pests can be destroyed by mechanical removal of insects by removing them with a damp cloth. You can trim off shoots infested with aphids.

You can destroy a colony of aphids by spraying the pests with a soap solution - dissolve a grated piece of laundry soap in 10 liters hot water. The cooled solution is used to treat rose bushes.

An effective method of killing aphids using improvised means is an infusion of wood ash. A glass of ash is added to a bucket of hot water. Leave for a day, stirring occasionally. The plants are treated with the strained infusion.

Hot weather with low air humidity leads to the appearance of a grayish-brown coating on the underside of rose leaves. These are traces of thrips. Insects at any age suck out cell sap. At first, you may notice yellowish or colorless spots or streaks on the leaves. The number and size of spots increase and merge together. Holes from the dead part appear on the damaged part. The leaves turn brown and die. Formed buds become deformed and fall off prematurely. Insects are very mobile and can quickly move from an infested plant to a healthy one.

Sticky secretions of thrips accumulate on the surface of damaged plants, on which sooty fungus multiplies.

As polyphagous insects that can settle on any plant, thrips can carry viruses that are dangerous to plants.

Prevention

You can prevent the appearance of the pest in closed ground by maintaining high air humidity, regularly spraying plants, and periodically washing them with a shower.

Regular inspections of plants to detect the pest will also help to notice and begin pest control in a timely manner.

Pest control measures:

Chemical means

Preparations such as Actelik, Confidor, Inta-Vir, Fitoverm, Agravertin or Vertimek will help you cope with thrips on roses. These drugs are diluted and used according to the instructions supplied with them. Multiplicity of treatments at least 2 times with an interval of 7-10 days. The first treatment will destroy adult insects, and subsequent larvae that appear later.

Folk remedies

You can detect and reduce the number of pests by using yellow or blue paper strips coated with an adhesive substance, hung among the roses. Thrips, attracted by these flowers, stick to the stripes.

Before using non-chemical products, it is necessary to increase the air humidity by washing the plant with a shower.

You can destroy the pest at the initial stage with a solution of laundry soap or infusion of ash. The alkali contained in the solutions destroys pests at a certain stage of development.

Home remedies can eliminate small pest colonies. Heavily infected bushes should be treated only with systemic chemicals that penetrate the cell sap.

Decoctions of various plants, such as mustard, tobacco, celandine, capsicum, and yarrow, will help you cope with thrips.

Marigold decoction. An infusion of marigold flowers can destroy thrips. Boil 50-60g of crushed flowers in 1 liter of water for 1-2 minutes. The resulting decoction is infused for 3 days. The strained decoction is sprayed on infected plants.

Garlic infusion. 3-5 crushed cloves of garlic are infused for 24 hours in 250 ml of hot water. Strain the infusion and pour it into a sprayer.

You can treat indoor roses for thrips like this: place chopped garlic cloves in a pot near the stem and cover the entire plant with polyethylene. Within a few hours the pests die.

The most common pest found on roses is the spider mite. It is this pest that most often causes weakening of the plant. Leaves fall on the affected bushes, the rose's immunity weakens, and the bush becomes vulnerable to infectious diseases.

Spider mites are very small insects, less than 2mm in size. Its microscopic dimensions make it unnoticeable. Insects that form colonies of less than 100 individuals are not dangerous to the plant. But the peculiarity of the pest is its rapid reproduction and colonization of neighboring plants.

The food for the mite is cell sap, which the pests draw out during the period of active growth. The rose bush is weakened and depleted. This pest is especially dangerous for young plantings in which root system works poorly.

The pest lives on inside leaves, forming a thick web in which it lives. By this sign you can easily guess the presence of a tick.

Prevention

Preventive measures to prevent the spread of ticks begin in the fall. With the onset of cold weather, the pest moves into fallen leaves for the winter. Thorough cleaning and burning of leaves at the end of the season will reduce the number of insects in next year and will reduce the occurrence of fungal infections.

Pest control measures:

Chemical means

Features of tick development are a rapid change of generations and the development of immunity to poisons. This suggests that in order to destroy the pest colony, the plant will need to be treated at least three times, every 3-6 days.

When choosing a drug, you need to pay attention to the active ingredient. top scores They gave me the following medications:

• "Sunmite", active ingredient - pyridabene;
• "Flumite", active ingredient - flufenzine;
• "Floromite", active ingredient - biphenazate;
• "Oberon", active ingredient - spiromesifen;
• "Nisoran", active ingredient - hexythiazox;
• "Apollo", the active ingredient is clofentesine.

Fighting spider mites using biological products

Such drugs, entering the digestive system of the insect, block the functioning of vital organs, causing the death of the pest at the mobile stages of development. Biological products act only on a narrow range of pests, without harming beneficial insects.

When using biological products, you need to remember that

• Ticks will die from such drugs in 8-12 hours.
• The action of biological products does not apply to tick eggs. Processing is carried out 3 or 4 times.
• Prepared solutions are stored for no more than an hour.
• You must strictly follow the instructions for using the product.

The best biological products that destroy spider mites:

• "Agravertine"
• "Kleschevit"
• "Akarin"
• "Fitoverm"
• "Vertimek"
• "Aktofit".

Folk recipes for killing spider mites

• Dandelion infusion. Leave 500 g of chopped herbs in 10 liters of water for 4 hours. Several applications will destroy spider mite colonies.
• Calendula infusion, prepared in the proportion of 400 g of flowering plants per 4 liters of water and infused for 5 days, will not be inferior to dandelion.
• Datura. A decoction of 1 kg of dry raw materials or 3 kg of fresh and 10 liters of boiling water. The chilled decoction poisons ticks no worse than chemicals. An infusion of 100 g of dry grass and 1 liter of water is kept for a day and sprayed.
• Celandine . Just a pinch of dry herb, brewed in boiling water and slightly infused, will become a deadly weapon against the spider pest.
• Onion and garlic. 200 g of husk is poured into a bucket of water for a day, then the greens are sprayed.
• Yarrow. 500 g of dried plants are brewed with boiling water and diluted to 10 liters of water.

Scale insects are considered one of the most difficult pests to remove. The body of an adult pest is covered with a shell that protects the scale insect from external influences, including the effects of chemicals. The pest appears on weakened plants that lack care, watering and fertilizers.

The scale insect sucks the juice of the plant, secreting a sticky substance, which reveals the presence of the pest on the rose. Sooty fungus quickly multiplies on sticky secretions.

The insect looks like scales on shoots and leaves

Prevention

When covering roses for the winter, be sure to leave gaps for ventilation. After removing the cover, the bushes are pruned. Regular preventive inspections of bushes will allow timely detection of the pest and carry out treatment. Frequently spraying the bushes with water will help curb the spread of the pest.

Pest control measures:

Chemical means

You can destroy scale insects on roses using broad-spectrum insecticides, such as:

Aktellik. An effective remedy suitable for indoor and outdoor use. The solution can be used to treat plants, or you can water the soil around the plantings. The exposure time ranges from several minutes to several hours. The protective effect lasts up to twenty days.

The advantages of the drug are that the pest does not become accustomed to the pesticide; a single treatment is sufficient; it is possible that the drug can be used in conjunction with other drugs.

Disadvantages: dangerous for pets and children, bad smell.

Aktara. Suitable for open air and closed ground. Water the soil with the solution. The toxic substance penetrates the leaves and shoots, destroying the pest. Advantages: compatible with growth stimulants, pest addiction is not observed.

Disadvantages: toxic to pollinating insects, unpleasant odor, unsuitable for residential premises. Bankol. Can be used both indoors and outdoors. Has a contact effect.

Advantages: low toxicity for warm-blooded animals, resistance to washing off by rain, compatible with growth stimulants, odorless.

Disadvantages: most effective at elevated temperatures, unsuitable for use in the garden.

Bitoxibacillin. Combines the action of an insecticidal drug and a bacterial agent. The harmful object is affected through the intestines. After 24 hours, the insect stops feeding, and after 72 hours, mass death of the pests occurs.

Bitoxibacillin can be used both indoors and outdoors. The product is non-toxic and odorless. The disadvantages are that the minimum temperature of use is +18 degrees; re-processing is required.

Folk recipes for exterminating scale insects

A small number of pests can be mechanically scraped from the plant. Wipe the damaged parts of the plants with a cloth or foam sponge soaked in soapy water.

In the spring, you can spray the bush with a soap solution with the addition of kerosene or used machine oil (5-6 drops per 1 liter of liquid). An insect covered with an oil film will not be able to breathe.

Another way to destroy the pest is to use vodka or garlic infusion. These liquids, applied to gauze, wipe shoots and leaves infested with scale insects. The leaves must be thoroughly wiped on both sides, removing insects and the sticky layer. Treat each sheet separately, and you need to dip the gauze into the liquid several times.

Garlic tincture is prepared from 5 chopped medium cloves of garlic and a glass of warm water. The mixture is infused in a warm place for several hours. Strain and use after treating the plant with a soap solution that removes sticky residue.

Good results are obtained by cleaning the surface of the leaves with a weak vinegar solution.

Protecting plants from insect pests: video

Gnawing pests

Gnawing pests - beetles, leaf-cutting wasps, caterpillars, sawflies - damage leaf plates, shoots, buds on the outside, stamens and pistils inside the flower. As a result, growth slows down, the plant weakens, and the number of flowers decreases.

Another type of pest is leaf miners. They eat away the internal tissues of the leaf, leaving the veins and outer coverings intact.

Caterpillars

Most often, caterpillars damage rose bushes planted in a shaded area or next to deciduous trees. Hatching from eggs in early spring, young caterpillars descend from trees and nibble on leaf buds on bushes. Damaged flowers bloom from eaten buds, and young leaves stop developing. You can collect caterpillars by hand only if there are few of them. You can fight a large number of pests only by spraying. The arsenal includes a large number of chemicals and herbal decoctions.

Prevention

As a preventive measure, it is advisable to collect mummified fruits and dried leaves covered in cobwebs from fruit trees in late autumn, after the leaves have fallen. Pest eggs overwinter in them. Egg clutches on branches and folds of bark can be destroyed by mechanical cleaning.

Pest control measures:

Chemical means

You can destroy caterpillars with broad-spectrum insecticides - Aktelik, Alatar, Bankol, Inta-Vir, Iskra.

Good results are obtained by treating plantings with biological preparations Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocid, Dendrobacillin.

All drugs must be diluted in accordance with the instructions and used on the day of preparation. When spraying, protective equipment is required.

Folk recipes for killing caterpillars

To kill caterpillars using non-chemical means, use onion skins, chamomile grass, burdock, tomato or potato tops, tansy or yarrow. 1 kilogram of dry raw material is poured into 10 liters of water and left for 24 hours. The strained solution is brought to 10 liters. Green or laundry soap is added to the resulting infusion to improve adhesion.

Vinegar essence added in the amount of 1 tablespoon per bucket of water will help scare away butterflies that lay eggs.

100 g of dry mustard are diluted in 10 liters of water and infused for 2-3 hours. The mixture is filtered and used for spraying. Caterpillars that taste leaves with such a seasoning quickly die.

The appearance of this pest is immediately noticeable - cut out semicircles appear along the edges of the leaves on the rose bush. Such damage does not cause much harm, but the nutrition of the bush deteriorates, and the appearance of the plant also becomes worse. Leaf cutter bees use cut pieces of leaves to create their nests.

Prevention

The appearance of such pests can be prevented by removing asteraceous weeds such as thistles or thistles on the site, on which bees make their nests.

Fighting methods

Leaf-cutter bees cause minimal harm and only appearance bush. There is no need to spray the bushes with pesticides. To preserve the leaves, you can cover the bushes with a net. You can use preparations used in the vineyards of Otos, Super Fas, Adamant. A greater effect will be achieved if used late in the evening.

A voracious beetle of golden-green color, up to 20 mm in size.

Smaller, up to 12 mm, but no less voracious, the hairy black beetle.

Both of these beetles actively feed from May to August on roses and other flowers. Grown-up females lay eggs in the soil at the beginning of summer; by the end of the season, larvae hatch and pupate. Before spring, the larvae become adult beetles and take flight the following summer.

These beetles can only be controlled by mechanical collection and physical destruction of the pest. In the morning, when the beetles are motionless, they are easy to collect from flowers. You can hang traps with fermented compote or jam in the flower garden. You can protect the bushes with covering material.

The appearance of caterpillars in the garden that roll leaves into cigars is a common occurrence. Leaf rollers are less common on roses, but they cause serious damage. Roseate leafrollers are inconspicuous butterflies with a wingspan of up to 22 mm. The mottled wings are dark brown or golden ocher with wavy stripes and spots.

Leaf rollers overwinter in cracks in the bark of trunks and branches. They return to activity in mid-spring. This coincides in timing with the separation of buds on late varieties apple trees Young caterpillars eat fresh leaves, damage the buds, eating away their petals, pistils and stamens.

Older caterpillars roll leaves into tubes, damage ovaries and fruits, penetrating into the seed chambers. After a month, the caterpillars become pupae at the feeding site. Most often this occurs in leaf tubes. At the end of July, adult butterflies emerge. After just 5 days they lay eggs, up to 250 eggs each. The eggs overwinter, withstanding up to 27 degrees below zero. Stronger frosts destroy up to 90% of wintering forms.

Prevention

Cleaning loose bark in the fall, whitewashing trunks.

Pest control measures:

Chemical means

When bushes are heavily populated by caterpillars, they are destroyed with systemic drugs Aktara, Alfatsin, Fastak.

Folk recipes for destroying leaf rollers

A small number of leaf rollers can be destroyed manually.

You can destroy butterflies by collecting them from the trunk with your hands. You can catch them on fermented compote or kvass.

The number of caterpillars can be reduced by installing hunting belts. Their effectiveness can be increased by soaking the burlap or corrugated paper pesticide.

Traces of miners

Externally, miners look like small flies flying short distances. They are called miners for their ability to make passages in the internal tissues of the leaf. Both larvae and adult insects feed on cell sap. Hatching larvae gnaw tunnels in the internal tissues of the leaf. The resulting tunnels impair photosynthesis, weakening the plant.

It is difficult to fight leaf miners - they are protected by the integumentary tissues of the leaf.

Pest control measures:

Chemical means

The use of chemicals is resorted to when 2 or more mine passages are laid on one sheet. In this case, systemic insecticides such as Actellik are used.

Eco-friendly methods

You can fight miners using non-chemical methods when there are few pests. Adult butterflies can be washed off the leaves with a high-pressure stream of water.

Digging the soil in the tree trunk circle will help reduce the number of pests. Some of the pests are destroyed by birds, the rest will die from frost.

Calendar of treatments for roses against pests and diseases

A set of products for caring for roses should consist of preparations that allow you to destroy both pests and pathogens.

1. Remedies from powdery mildew and spotting: Falcon, Tilt Super Alto.
2. Remedies against downy mildew: Revus, Profit-gold, Thanos, Ridomil-gold, Previkur.
3. Insecticides: Aktara, Inta-Vir, Iskra.
4. Tick ​​control products: Vertimek, Fitoverm, Apollo, Sunmite.
5. Products that improve the adhesion of drugs - liquid, green or laundry soap.

All of these products can be mixed with each other, increasing their effectiveness.

Approximate list of required treatments

1. With the appearance of the first leaves on the bushes, use a mixture consisting of drugs from groups 1, 2 and 3. We carry out at least two treatments at intervals of 10-14 days. When a large number of insects appear, we use additional products from group 3.
2. The time for the buds to emerge is a mixture of products 1, 2 and 3.
3. Mid – end of July. A mixture of products from groups 1 and 2. Add drugs from group 3 as needed. The means need to be changed each time to avoid addiction.

Drugs from group 4 (from ticks) are added to the mixture if necessary.

Each time, when carrying out processing, it is necessary to take into account weather conditions.