Doors of this type are installed both in wall openings and in built-in cabinets. Therefore, installation systems may differ slightly. But in general terms, the algorithm of actions when calculating the parameters of compartment doors does not change. The technique is quite simple, and if you understand the meaning of each stage, you can do everything yourself, without turning to a professional.

Calculating the cabinet (if it is the one that is being assembled) is not limited to just determining the dimensions of the sashes. It is necessary to take into account its layout, calculate the optimal dimensions of compartments, drawers, and modifications of various components. For example, a roller mechanism. But that is another topic.

Preparation of the workplace

You need to start with this, and it doesn’t matter whether the installation of sliding sashes is supposed to be in a niche or a wall opening. It is necessary to ensure that the geometry of the selected area of ​​the room is correct, without distortions. Otherwise, calculating dimensions will not only become more complicated, but the result will also have large errors. In addition, the profiles will lie unevenly, and the compartment door leaves will roll spontaneously.

Determining the dimensions of the opening

The peculiarity of this stage is that width measurements are carried out at several levels to identify possible discrepancies in the parameters. The same applies to heights - at different points. Based on the results obtained, average values ​​are calculated.

Sash size calculations

Height

To calculate this parameter of compartment doors, no formulas are needed. The initial value is the corresponding size of the opening (it is already known). Since the sash should not “fall out” of the profile, you need to take into account the height of its wall. If we focus on the Raumplus mounting system, which is most often used, then it is 45 mm.

It is enough to subtract about 40 from the height of the opening, and you will get the desired value. There will be a guarantee that the rollers in any case (dynamic or static) will not jump out of the upper guide. The maximum height is determined in the same way. Only the double thickness of the profile wall (top + bottom of the opening) is subtracted.

Using this method, the height of the sliding wardrobe is determined, regardless of the scheme according to which it is mounted. The algorithm of actions is identical for any constructions of this type.

Width

It should be selected so that the overlap of the canvases is ensured by an amount sufficient to install the selected type of handle.

The calculation principle is the same, but the number of leaves is taken into account. The initial value is the width of the opening.

• Wardrobe with 2 compartment doors. The overlap value is added to the result of measurements of the niche (opening), and the resulting value is divided by 2.

• Three-door design. The difference is that the number of handles and overlaps of the canvas increases. Consequently, the formula takes a different form. The calculation is made as follows: the double size of the door hardware is subtracted from the width of the opening, but the result is divided by 3.

Note

This is true if you need to calculate the maximum door width. As a rule, home craftsmen install so-called sash bumpers. And if their thickness is significant, then this value (multiplied by 2, since the installation of devices is done on both sides) will have to be subtracted from the obtained value. This will be the optimal width of the wardrobe.

Calculation of profile parameters

• Guide length. It is the same for the lower and upper planks and is calculated taking into account the width of the opening. For ease of installation, approximately 2.5 ± 0.5 mm is subtracted from it.

• Length of dividing profiles. The calculation is made depending on the design of the compartment door - 2 or 3 leaves. But the calculation procedure is the same - the amount of their overlap is subtracted from the width of the canvases.

Fill calculation

Doors for sliding structures are made of different materials - multi-layer plywood, chipboard, and sometimes high-strength glass. They all differ in thickness. But the calculation procedure for any filling of compartment doors remains unchanged. The basis for all calculations is the configuration of the profile for edging (that is, the features of its cut) and the standard dimensions of slab (sheet) products.

• Height. It has already been defined for the opening. All that remains is to subtract twice the thickness of the guide (top + bottom). When installing compartment doors, the seal is also taken into account. Its material has its own thickness, which must be multiplied by 2 and subtracted to obtain the desired value.
• Width. Also nothing complicated. If the filling is done in a metal “edging” (frame), then the thickness of the “ribs” is taken into account. Accordingly, its total value is subtracted from the calculated door width.

When independently assembling sliding structures, individual drawings are used, developed in relation to local conditions. The main thing is to understand the principle of calculating the size of doors, be it a wardrobe or doors in a wall opening. And everything else is just minor nuances that are not difficult to take into account. For example, the thickness of the divider partition, the design features of the handle, and the like.

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Calculation of wardrobe doors: how to take correct measurements manually and with a calculator

If you are planning to assemble a sliding wardrobe with your own hands, this means that you will have to independently calculate the dimensions of the sliding doors. It is not difficult to carry out calculations of facades, but you need to understand that the comfort of using the furniture and its service life depend on how correctly you do this. In the article you will find everything you need to know for the correct calculation of sliding facades.

Design of compartment facades

The diagram shows the structure of the door, namely, a set of profiles fixed around the perimeter of the filling. This design provides sufficient rigidity and strength when the door moves along the guides. Let's take a closer look at what the sliding door is made of.

Illustrations	Structural elements and their description
	Filling. This is the main material that forms the door leaf. The filling can be solid or stacked. In the first case, a solid slab of chipboard, MDF or other dense material is used as filling. The separate filling is assembled from several separate panels connected to each other by a horizontal strip - a divider.
	Top profile. At the initial stage of facade assembly, an upper U-shaped profile is attached to the upper part of the filling. Fastening is carried out with preliminary installation of a silicone seal.
	Handle profile. After the top profile is installed, handle profiles are attached to the sides. If the filling is glass, a silicone sealant is glued under the profile; if the filling is made of chipboard or MDF, a sealant is not needed.
	Lower connecting profile for compartment door. After the handles are attached to both sides of the filling, a U-shaped profile is installed in the lower part, on which the roller system will subsequently be attached.
	Horizontal divider for making a combined compartment door. If the filling is carried out not in one, but in several pieces, these fragments are joined into a single whole with a metal profile with an N-shaped cross section. Correct joining of filling fragments in a metal profile allows you to assemble doors that are no less rigid than doors with a solid filling.

How to calculate compartment doors yourself

Doors, or compartment facades as they are also called, are technically complex structures that slide relative to each other, opening access to the interior space.

This design feature, on the one hand, provides a number of obvious advantages, including excellent design and rational use of indoor space. On the other hand, due to the sliding opening, compartment facades are more difficult to independently calculate and manufacture compared to conventional swing doors.

Facade calculations depend on a number of parameters, including the dimensions of the opening into which the structure will be built, the type of materials used to make the facade, etc. To perform the calculations correctly, you can use an online calculator, or you can spend a little time and perform the necessary calculations yourself.

Parameters affecting the calculation of the dimensions of the sliding wardrobe

Width and height. The height and width of the cabinet depends on the width and height of the opening where the installation will be performed. When taking measurements of the opening, we take into account that the junctions between the ceiling and walls, especially in old apartments and houses, may not be perfectly smooth. Therefore, we measure the width and height at several points at once.

We measure the width at the bottom and top of the opening. We measure the height at the extreme points on the right and left of the wall. We also measure the height along the adjacent walls with an indentation equal to the depth of the cabinet.

Height measurements must be strictly vertical, and width measurements must be horizontal. Therefore, it is advisable to use a laser level to take measurements.

Having made measurements, we subtract the correction 50 mm from the obtained number, which will be enough to compensate for even a strong blockage of the walls. Technological gaps after assembling the cabinet can be covered with decorative false panels.

Depth calculation. The depth of the cabinet is not particularly important when calculating the size of the doors. However, the depth of the cabinet will be determined by measurements of the height and width of the opening along the reach, which in turn affects the calculation of the dimensions of the cabinet and facades.

Door overlap. Sliding doors overlap each other with their edges when closed. The minimum overlap is 26 mm. It is impossible to do less overlap, as this will negatively affect the strength of the entire structure; it is irrational to do more overlap.

Calculation of the facade for a built-in cabinet

Now that we know how to measure a room correctly, it’s time to determine the dimensions of the facades.

Calculation of housing dimensions. Let's say there is a niche in which you need to build a cabinet with sliding doors. The niche width is 1550 mm and the height is 2500 mm. From the length and width, we subtract the correction for the unevenness of the walls by 25 mm on the right and left and the same on top and get a width of 1500 mm and a height of 2475 mm.

Since the cabinet will be a cabinet, we subtract the thickness of the cabinet from the width and height. Let's say the case is budget and we assemble it from 16 mm thick laminated chipboard. Therefore, we calculate the width inside the case as 1500 – 32 = 1468 mm and calculate the height as 2475 – 32 = 2443 mm.

Calculation of door size according to the height of the wardrobe. To calculate the height of the doors, you need to subtract 40 mm from the internal height of the body. 40 mm are standard gaps that will be occupied by guide profiles, as well as support and guide rollers. We consider 2443 – 40 = 2403 mm. The resulting number is equal to the length to which we will cut the side profile with a handle.

Determining the number of doors. The number of doors is determined by the internal width of the body and the ease of opening.

The minimum sash size is 600 mm. There are examples of manufacturing sashes with a width of 50 cm, and in this case, when moving, the sashes become warped due to the small contact with the guides. A width of 60 cm is enough to prevent distortion of even heavy chipboard doors.

Maximum width 1 meter. It is possible to make a sash a meter or more wide, but it will be difficult to move and its weight will put a significant load on the support rollers and guides.

Horizontal size. How to calculate the width? Since in our case the internal width of the cabinet body is 1468 mm, it will be correct to install two sliding doors. To calculate the width of the sashes, add 26 mm to 1468 mm - the minimum allowable overlap, then divide the resulting amount - 1494 mm - by the number of sashes, that is, by two. As a result, the width of one sash, taking into account the overlap and taking into account the installed profiles, is 747 mm.

The length of the side profile with handle on both the right and left is equal to the previously calculated height of the sash. To calculate the length of the horizontal inserts, subtract 51 mm from the width of the façade of 747 mm. We also calculate the length of the dividing horizontal profiles, if such are provided in the design.

Filling calculation. In order to determine the length of the chipboard sash filling, we subtract 60 mm from the previously calculated door height - a technological standard that takes into account the thickness of the profile in the lower and upper parts of the structure. We calculate the filling height: 1468 – 60 = 1408 mm.

If we calculate the length of the mirror or glass filling from the height of the door, we subtract not 60, but 63 mm. This 3 mm is the thickness of the silicone seal or schlegel glued to both sides of the sash.

We calculate the width of the filling; to do this, subtract 35 mm from the width of the facade 747 mm and get 712 mm for each sash. When calculating the width of glass or mirror, we subtract not 35, but 38 mm, where 3 mm is the thickness of the seal.

When making the filling, we take into account the thickness of the material. The base thickness is 10 mm, but you can use filling with a thickness of 8 mm, although you will have to install spacers from the inside out.

Let's sum it up

Now you know what sliding doors are made of and how to calculate their dimensions for self-assembly. You will find more interesting information on the topic by watching the video in this article, and if you have any questions, ask them in the comments.

A sliding wardrobe is an extremely convenient and practical piece of furniture. Taking up almost no useful space in the room, it has considerable capacity, and its external design is quite capable of decorating any room interior. The demand for such products is consistently high, and many owners are attempting to build a wardrobe on their own.

It must be said that there is every reason for this - there are special sets of profiles on sale that allow, if you have certain skills and special care in your work, to make such a cabinet yourself. The work will be successful if all measurements and necessary calculations are carefully taken. One of the key parameters is the width of the sliding wardrobe doors. It depends on several initial values ​​- all this is taken into account by the calculator we offer for calculating the width of the wardrobe door leaf.

Prices for sliding wardrobes

inexpensive wardrobe

The corresponding explanations for the calculation are in the text section below the calculator.

The wardrobe door is a simple mechanism only at first glance. To make and install it yourself, it’s not enough to buy everything you need. It is necessary to correctly measure the connector and calculate the necessary indicators. This will take time and patience. Correct calculation is half of the positive result, a guarantee of successful service and maximum benefit of the design.

How to calculate the size of the door leaf for a sliding wardrobe

First of all, indicators such as the height of the opening and its width are measured. Be sure to measure with a level so that the guides do not tilt - if they are not adjusted, the sashes may roll down.

The height of the slats themselves along which the canvas will move is about four centimeters.

First you need to determine the height of the ceiling (standard height 2500 mm) and subtract 4 centimeters of the gap for the guides - the resulting value will be the height of the door leaf:

• Door H = 2500 – 40 = 2460 mm

After determining the height, the width is determined. It will depend on the type of handle being installed, of which there are two main types: open (opens from the side where the hook is located) and closed (the same everywhere). For this reason, the width will vary.

The width of the door leaf is also calculated depending on the number of door leaves - when their dimensions are determined, it is taken into account that they are mounted overlapping so that they can open freely in all directions. If the cabinet has 2 doors, there will be one overlap, out of three - two, four - here are the options: two or three overlaps. It is clear that the width depends on the number of door structures. For example, if there are 3 two doors in the closet, the sum of their widths should be approximately 2 centimeters greater than the size of the opening (due to overlap).

The visible length (L) + overlaps is the desired indicator, which must be divided by the required number of sashes:

• L (open) = (2300+10*2)/2 = 1160 mm.
• L (closed) = (2300+15*2)/2 = 1165 mm.

Calculation of components

For closed and open handles, measurements are taken individually:

• The handle is the side frame of the door, with its help the door leaf opens.
• L handle = H door
• Track - top and bottom - the upper rail, thanks to which the canvas is fixed in a vertical position.
• Track (top and bottom) = N opening
• Frame – tightens the door at the top and bottom.
• L top/bottom frame = L doors – 50
• The insert is the external facade: mirror, glass.
• H insert = H door – 60, L insert = L door – 40

As for the inserts: it should be remembered that the standard width of the sheet is 4 mm (glass or mirror) plus an auxiliary seal (sheets of plywood or chipboard).

If the insert is without glass, but simply uses a dense material (suitable dimensions 10-12 mm), you can do without a seal.

During installation you will also need the following parts:

• Rollers (upper and lower, 4 pieces each);
• Hex key screws (sold with rollers).
• Brakes (4) F
• Mirror seal (silicone);
• The pile is dustproof;
• Self-tapping screws (4.5*60) 8-10 pieces.

A very important note - the dimensions of the guides should be 2 cm less than the H of the opening to facilitate installation. If we are talking about cabinet furniture, then the length should be generous, because during installation it turns out that the lengths of the upper and lower rails are different.

Assembly and installation of sliding wardrobe doors

You need to assemble the structure on a flat table or on the floor, first leaning it against something (a wooden beam).

General assembly algorithm:

• File a profile;
• Tap the top frame (tap gently with a rubber mallet);
• Stuff the bottom frame;
• Level the horizons (insert protrusion 7 mm);
• Installation of the handle (7 mm indentation);
• Put on the handle and side handle;
• Pull the frame;
• Screw in the screw at the top;
• Installation of rollers and seals;
• Installation of mirror inserts.

Inserts with a coating (film) at the edges should be rounded; if they are at a right angle, the film may be damaged.

Installation algorithm:

• We insert the sash into the installed upper guide mechanism.
• The rollers are installed in the lower track.
• The door is adjustable horizontally and vertically.
• Install the remaining parts: from far to near.
• If the facade is skewed: adjust using a hex key and screw the roller. In the direction of the clock - raise it, against the clock - lower it.

Useful information about the calculation and installation of sliding wardrobe door panels:

Sliding interior doors

Recently, double-leaf interior sliding structures have gained great popularity, the main advantage of which is saving space.

You can install them yourself; to do this you need to purchase:

• Door leaf.
• Sliding mechanism.
• Pens.
• Lock (if necessary).

This kit is already enough for installation. To make new interior doors look more attractive, you should think about replacing other parts:

• Door frame (you will need a rail).
• Platbands.
• Bar for sliding system.

Installation begins with preparing the door leaf: first, a small slot is made in the center with a grinder (it serves as a door stop), rollers are screwed on all sides, a lock is installed, and handles are attached. Then you need to install the sliding mechanism in the doorway. Pay special attention to the length of the guide, adjust it to size if necessary, and calculate the correct installation height.

Thanks to the rollers, the blade can be easily installed in the guide.

A rubber stop, upper and lower stops are attached to the three-millimeter gap.

It is advisable to carry out the work after replacing the door frame: it is made of slats, reinforced with foam, and trims are installed. If the interior doors have a lock, then in place of one of the platbands a beam is placed where part of the locking mechanism will be located. The frame can also be decorated with stone, laminate, to match the design of the room, so that the interior doors look harmonious.

Sliding wardrobes, which not so long ago were considered completely exotic interior items that could only be seen in glossy catalogs or in very “rich” apartments, have gradually entered the everyday life of the average family. Such furniture designs combine practicality, spaciousness, and savings in usable space, and on top of all this, they fit very well into the interior of the room, often becoming its central design element.

And yet, if you look at the price lists of companies engaged in the manufacture and installation of sliding wardrobes, sometimes the prospect of such an acquisition looks somewhat frightening. Therefore, many owners who know how to hold carpentry and plumbing tools in their hands have questions - is it possible to make such an interior item themselves? It turns out that this is quite possible. The biggest difficulty is the sliding door design. However, this should not be scary - in specialized stores you can purchase special kit systems that will help you assemble beautiful and functional doors for a sliding wardrobe with your own hands, of course, if diligence, accuracy, and a clear sequence of all technological operations are applied.

What is included in the kit for wardrobe doors

This article will not discuss the process of installing the cabinet itself with shelves, side walls, drawers, etc. The point is completely different - the defining element of such a piece of furniture is precisely. By and large, no matter how paradoxical it may sound, a wardrobe may simply not even be a “wardrobe” in the literal sense of the word.

Thus, with a movable door structure you can fence off a long niche in the wall, placing in the resulting space both ordinary shelves and racks, bedside tables, etc. Often, such a partition separates the end part of the room, along its entire width, from wall to wall, and in height - from floor to ceiling. And the resulting mini-room can serve as both a spacious closet and a storage room, and sometimes even a small office. A similar design is also used for installation in the corner of a room or hallway - as a result, the owners have a triangular “closet” at their disposal, which can be used as a closet and for other needs, for example, even for “home parking” of a bicycle.

In a word, there can be an innumerable number of options. But they all have one thing in common - . Correctly mounted sashes move effortlessly along their guides, alternately allowing one or another section of the “cabinet” to be opened, and in the closed position they fit tightly, without gaps, to the vertical planes framing the structure.

Doors for wardrobes

You should not assume that the numerous local companies involved in the manufacture and installation of sliding wardrobes use some of their own designs or mechanisms. In the vast majority of cases, ready-made systems are used for this, which can be purchased at furniture fittings stores. Usually they represent a certain set of metal (usually aluminum) profiles and the necessary components: roller mechanisms, plugs, gaskets, jumpers, fasteners, etc. These systems help assemble the frame structure of the doors and the mechanism for moving them, but each master is free to choose his own internal filling - mirrors, transparent or tinted glass, plastic, laminated fiberboard or MDF and other materials.

There are many such systems for sliding wardrobe doors. They may differ in the configuration and material of the profiles, the principle of installation of parts, the level of complexity of the roller mechanism, the adjustment system, etc. Our publication will discuss the Aristo system as one of the most popular, proven to be reliable, and quite easy to install yourself. In addition, it is pleasant to know that these are products of our domestic manufacturer, which have won recognition abroad.

Aristo profiles are made of primary aluminum and have a precisely calibrated geometry, which allows you to assemble door structures with high precision. The system involves sliding doors, the load from which falls on the lower roller. It is equipped with a metal rolling bearing that does not require lubrication throughout its entire service life, and ensures smooth and silent movement of the sash along the guide without applying much effort. The upper rollers play a stabilizing role, hold the canvas in a vertical position and ensure its smooth movement relative to the upper guide.

The manufacturer of the kits claims that the resource built into the mechanism, if assembled correctly, will be enough for one hundred thousand (!) closing and opening cycles - a more than impressive figure.

The manufacturer offers a wide selection of color designs for aluminum profiles - it is possible to mount a structure that will fit perfectly into the interior without standing out, or, conversely, sharply contrasting against the general background.

Wood-look profiles are covered with a high-strength two-layer laminating film, and monochrome parts receive their shade using anodizing technology.

Aristo profiles allow the production of sliding doors filled with glass (4 mm thick), a composition of glass with plywood or fiberboard (6 or 8 mm thick) or from chipboard, MDF panels (10 mm thick). The maximum door dimensions can be: up to 1500 mm wide, up to 3300 mm high, the permissible weight of one leaf is up to 160 kg.

What are the main components included in the Aristo system (an option with guides for two or more sashes is being considered):

№№	Illustration	Dimensions	Short description
1.			Side handle-stand, open type, asymmetrical, profile C.
2.			Side handle-stand, closed type, symmetrical, profile N.
3.			The upper guide profile (track) is double-slide.
4.			The lower guide profile (track) is double-slide.
5.			Upper door frame. The channel for screwing in the assembly self-tapping screw is clearly visible.
6.			Lower door frame. The same mounting channel for the screw, and the high profile shelves create a niche for placing support rollers.
7.			The door frame is medium without additional fixation with a self-tapping screw. It is used when using several fragments of filling in cases where reinforced fixation of the lintel is not required - it will be held by the filling panels (for example, if rigid chipboard or 10 mm MDF boards are used).
8.			Middle door frame with screw fixation. Able to add additional rigidity to the door frame. It is advisable to use when used as fragments of filling glass or mirrors, or when the entire door leaf structure has significant dimensions.
9.			Straight stop. Optional element. It is used to frame the vertical sides of the opening at the point where they adjoin the walls.
10.			Shaped stop. Optional element. It is used to frame the vertical sides of the opening if they are walls made of chipboard panels.
11.			P-profile. Optional element. Can be used to frame the ends of chipboard panels used in the installation of the cabinet structure, in places where they are adjacent to the floor, ceiling, and walls.
12.		-	The upper roller is symmetrical. Used when using closed vertical profiles N.
13.		-	The upper roller is asymmetrical. Used when using open vertical profiles C. Each sash requires a set of two rollers.
14.		-	Lower support roller with adjusting screw. Each sash requires a set of two rollers. The AB74 adjusting screw has a 6 mm hex head.
15.		-	Assembly screw AB75, with self-tapping working part. The head is for a 6 mm internal hexagon. One screw for each connecting node.
16.		-	Spring stopper. Optional element. Provides fixation of the door in the closed position.
17.		-	Silicone rubber seal. It is laid along the perimeter of the door filling inserts. They vary in size - a seal is available for inserts of 4, 6 and 8 mm thickness. When using 10 mm thick filling, no seal is used.
18.		-	Schlegel is a self-adhesive strip of plastic and lint. It is glued along the entire height of the door leaf from the end part - for this purpose a special groove is provided on profiles C and H. Schlegel softens the impact of the door on the cabinet walls, and when the door is closed, it prevents the penetration of dust.

There are several more items that can be purchased upon request - closers, magnetic stoppers, locks, caps for the ends of profiles, etc. But they no longer directly affect the process of assembling and installing wardrobe doors under consideration.

The principle of assembling doors for a sliding wardrobe with the “Aristo” system

Everything in the configuration of the profiles and fittings of the Aristo system is thought out, so installing the door structure should not cause much difficulty.

A schematic diagram of the assembly of one door leaf with vertical profiles of type C is shown in the drawing. Here and below, the numbering of profile and fitting elements is observed in full accordance with the detailing table located above.

Profiles 3 and 4 are fixed respectively to the ceiling (cabinet lid) and floor (cabinet base), and are fixed parts of the system.

Installation of the door leaf structure is carried out using assembly screws (pos. 15). No. 14a shows the adjusting screw for the lower support roller.

The drawing does not show the option of central horizontal jumpers, if they are necessary. But their installation is fundamentally no different. They are either simply inserted without additional fixation (there are special sides on the inside of the vertical posts for precise centering), or they are fixed with an assembly screw according to the same principle as the upper crossbar of the door.

Below is an assembly drawing for the option using a vertical profile type H.

There is no fundamental difference - just a different, symmetrical type of upper rollers is used for these profiles. True, there will still be differences in the calculation of dimensions and in the installation of the upper and lower guide profiles (runners).

Calculations of door sizes for sliding wardrobes of the Aristo system

The assembly of the door will only be of high quality if careful, down to the millimeter, calculations are carried out, and the parts are prepared very carefully according to the obtained dimensions. No negligence or calculations “by eye” are allowed - this will certainly lead not only to a sloppy appearance, but also to distortions and even jamming of the door structure.

Calculations are carried out in the following sequence:

• The exact dimensions of the opening into which the door structure will be installed are determined.

The diagram shows wall structures, floor and ceiling, but these can also be the walls of a mounted cabinet - the principle does not change.

At the output we have two values: opening length – Lп and its height is Np, from which the further countdown will begin.

It is extremely important to pay attention to the fact that the upper and lower boundaries of the opening must be strictly horizontal along their entire length. If the deviation from the side walls from the vertical, although extremely undesirable, can still be somehow compensated for by decorative finishing, then even small deviations from the horizontal will lead to looseness or jamming of the movable sashes.

Often, in order to compensate for slight unevenness in the floor and ceiling, and to facilitate further fastening of the guide profiles, smooth panels (strips), for example, made of chipboard, are mounted above and below along the entire length of the opening. In this case, the height of the opening is measured after installing such pads, or their thickness must be taken into account - subtracted from the total height of the opening.

• After measuring the opening, you can immediately obtain the height of the door structure, that is, the length of the required vertical handle profiles (1 or 2).

Regardless of the profile type, it is always equal

Нд = Нп – 40 mm

• Opening length Lп immediately gives the length of the lower and upper guide profiles (3 and 4).

There may be a nuance here. If you plan to install a frame from a straight or shaped stop (profiles 9 or 10), then the length of guides 3 and 4 will decrease by 3 mm (1.5 mm on each side due to the thickness of the frame).

Ld =Lп – 3 mm

The length of profiles 9 and 10 is always equal to the “net” height of the opening Np.

• The next question is the width of the door leaf.

This indicator depends on the total length of the opening and on the planned number of movable sashes, and on the vertical handle profile used, and even on the presence or absence of a schlegel.

With significant opening lengths, you should not strive for large door leaf widths - they turn out to be too massive and not entirely convenient to use. It is quite possible to place two, three, four or even five sashes on double-runner guides. Despite the fact that even 1500 mm is allowed, they usually try to keep the width of each within the range of 750 ÷ 900 mm.

Initial value for calculating the width of the sash ( Lc) – opening length Lп and the planned number of sashes.

The following ratios are used for calculations:

	Presence of Schlegel	Profile C	Profile H
2 doors	- without schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 25) / 2	Lс = (Lп + 35) / 2
	- with Schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 15) / 2	Lс = (Lп + 25) / 2
3 doors	- without schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 50) / 3	Lс = (Lп + 70) / 3
	- with Schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 40) / 3	Lс = (Lп + 60) / 3
4 doors	- without schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 50) / 4	Lc = (Lp + 70) / 4
	- with Schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 30) / 4	Lс = (Lп + 50) / 4
5 doors	- without schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 100) / 5	Lс = (Lп + 140) / 5
	- with Schlegel	Lс = (Lп + 90) / 5	Lс = (Lп + 130) / 5

In order not to get confused in the formulas, we suggest using the built-in calculator, which will quickly calculate the required sash width