Hyacinth is one of the most charming plants, used both for garden decoration and for growing in room conditions. This flower, easy to plant and care for, exudes a delicate, beautiful aroma, giving a spring mood. At the same time, you can make it bloom even in winter, creating the necessary conditions for this.

Hyacinth: origin, appearance and main properties

The genus Hyacinth belongs to the Asparagus family, whose representatives are common in the regions of Central Asia and the Eastern Mediterranean, namely in the Balkans, Syria and Turkey.

The name of the primrose in Greek means "flower of the rains."

Hyacinth is a perennial herbaceous ephemeroid (a plant with a very short growing season). The time of its growth, flowering and fruiting falls in the spring, and during the period of hot summer, cool autumn and frosty winter, flower development stops.

The large dense hyacinth bulb has a rounded shape and is covered with thin membranous scales. The leaf blades are elongated.

Feature of the plant: during flowering, the size of the leaves is relatively short, and after the death of the peduncle, they grow up to 20 cm.

The flowers, which are bell-shaped, are decorated with thin and gracefully curved petals. The buds are numerous, on one racemose inflorescence they can bloom from 12 to 35 or more pieces. In the wild, the hyacinth corolla is usually colored blue or white, and the gamut of varietal colors is very wide.

Popular varieties

Hybridizers have bred a huge number of varieties with large flowers and a heady aroma, differing in the size of inflorescences, color, height of the peduncle, and flowering time. The most common include:

1. Royal Navy. Variety with double flowers of a rich purple hue.
2. Brooklyn. Variety with flowers of white-yellow-cream color with a darker center.
3. Raphael. hallmark varieties are semi-open flowers with narrow elongated petals.
4. Rosalia. The flowers of this variety of hyacinth are bright pink.
5. Ostara. Feature varieties - bright purple inflorescences and a rather long flowering period (about three weeks).
6. woodstock. Purple-lilac hyacinth with a large inflorescence.
7. Midnight Mystic. The variety is a find of the last decade. Its characteristic feature is original flowers almost black in color.
8. Carnegie. Variety with magnificent snow-white flowers.
9. Fondant. An elegant pink hyacinth, the petals of which are cast in mother-of-pearl.
10. Orange Bowen. The variety boasts salmon-apricot flowers with a yellow throat and dark pink perianth tips.

Photo gallery: varietal diversity of hyacinths

Variety Royal Navy - a hyacinth with double flowers of a rich purple hue Brooklyn variety - a delicate hyacinth with flowers of a yellowish color with a darker center A distinctive feature of the Raphael variety are semi-open flowers with narrow elongated petals The flowers of the hyacinth of the Rosalia variety are bright pink purple inflorescences and rather long flowering period Variety Woodstock - purple-lilac hyacinth with a large inflorescence
A characteristic feature of the Midnight Mystery variety is the original almost black flowers. The Carnegie variety is a fragrant hyacinth with magnificent snow-white flowers.
Fondant is a graceful pink hyacinth with mother-of-pearl petals. Orange Boven boasts salmon-apricot flowers with a yellow throat and deep pink tepals.

Optimal conditions for hyacinth in spring-winter and summer-autumn: table

Planting a hyacinth and features of forcing a flower in an apartment

Under natural conditions, hyacinth is a primrose that blooms in mid or late spring. But indoors, flowering can be greatly accelerated and make the plant bloom by any date, such as Christmas, New Year or March 8th. To do this, the bulbs are taken out of the state of "sleep", creating certain conditions. The process is called "forcing". Hyacinths lend themselves to her quite easily. Luxurious fragrant flowers are easy to get at home.

There are two ways to grow hyacinth: in a substrate or in water. As a soil mixture, a composition of:

• garden soil;
• peat;
• sand.

All components must be taken in equal quantities and mixed thoroughly to obtain a light and loose substrate. Hyacinth also needs good drainage, it can be made from pieces of broken brick or expanded clay.

Pot selection

The capacity should be small the best option will use pots with a diameter of 1.5 times the size of the bulb. You can also use wider bowls if you plan to plant several plants in one dish. In this case, select a container according to the size of the planting material, the bulbs should be located so that there is a distance of about two centimeters between them.

Store-bought hyacinths do not need to be repotted. The flower can only be covered with a paper cap so that the peduncle becomes larger.

How to drive out hyacinth in the ground: preparatory stage

1. Choose large and healthy bulbs that are over 5 cm in diameter. They are usually well matured, which means that the flower buds have had time to develop well and accumulate enough nutrients for excellent flowering.
2. Bulbs intended for forcing, hold for about a week in a dry room. During this time, they will ripen.
3. Put a layer of drainage in the prepared container, pour coarse sand on it, which will protect the planting material from decay.
4. Fill the container with the prepared substrate.
5. Plant a hyacinth bulb in the soil mixture, deepening it by half or two-thirds of its height.
6. Water the soil lightly, the soil should not be damp, otherwise rotting will begin.
7. Cover the pot with dark material, as the rooting process must take place in the dark.
8. Transfer the pot with the planted bulb to a cool room with a temperature of 5-9 o C. You can put it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, designed for storing vegetables, or take it out to the balcony.

Distillation of hyacinths planted in the ground

1. When the hyacinth leaves grow 8-10 cm, remove the dark cloth from the pot, transfer to a bright place and start watering the plant. Thus, the time for forcing the peduncle begins, which takes 3-4 weeks. Based on this, you can predict the time of flowering. For example, to get flowering for the New Year, you need to get a hyacinth from a cool and dark place in early December.
2. The temperature of the content of hyacinth during this period should be from 10 to 20 ° C. With a higher indicator, flowering will be short.
3. Accustom the plant to the room temperature gradually, as with a sharp change in conditions, the flower will begin to grow leaves at the expense of flowering.
4. Hyacinth during this period it is necessary to reduce daylight hours, because in bright light the peduncle will grow short. To do this, flower growers use a cap made of dark paper or cover the plant with an opaque plastic cup (first for the whole day, then for half, and then for part of the day). This simple device is recommended to be used until the peduncle rises above the leaf blades.
5. When the hyacinth begins to bloom, the cap can be removed and enjoy the flowering of the plant.

At home, hyacinth blooms for about two weeks, however, if the flower pot is transferred overnight to a cool place, this period can be extended by another seven days.

An effective option: how to properly expel bulbs in water

Manufacturers often use the method of forcing hyacinths in water. In this way, you can try to grow hyacinth at home.

1. Until September, keep the bulb at a temperature of about 25 o C.
2. Choose a container that tapers at the top to about 4 cm. Small vases or special vessels for forcing hyacinths are suitable for this.
3. Place a few pieces of charcoal on the bottom to help prevent rotting. To prevent it from floating up, pour a layer of coarse sand on top.
4. Pour water into the pot. For distillation of hyacinth, it is desirable to use soft water: rain or melt.
5. Place the bulb on the neck of the container so that the distance between the bottom and the surface of the water is 1–2 cm.
6. Wrap the container with the onion in dark paper and store it in a dark and cool room at a temperature of 4-8°C.
7. Periodically inspect the bulb and add water.
8. After about two months, long roots will develop, and the growth of leaf blades and inflorescences will begin. At this time, you need to transfer the flower to a bright, warm place with a temperature of 22–25 ° C.

Keep in mind that growing hyacinths need very good lighting, otherwise the peduncle will stretch out a lot, grow thin and weak.

Forcing flowers to certain dates (New Year, March 8, etc.)

If you plan to get the flowering of charming hyacinths by a special date, then you should plan the stages of flower forcing in advance.

1. In order for magnificent flowers with a delicate aroma to bloom for the New Year, it is necessary to start the preparatory stage of forcing already in the middle of summer. In July, the bulbs are removed from the soil, cleaned from the ground and laid for two weeks in storage at a temperature of about 25-30 o C and high humidity (approximately 90%).
2. After that, the temperature of the bulb content is reduced to 20–25 o C and kept under these conditions for about two more weeks.
3. Closer to September, the planting material is transferred to a cool place with a temperature of 10–13 o C. At this, the preparatory stage of forcing hyacinth for the New Year ends, and the direct process begins in October, when the bulbs are planted in pots after a rest period.
4. If you want the hyacinth to bloom in February, then forcing should start two weeks later, in mid-October. The flower will bloom in March if the bulbs are planted in the ground or put in water in early November.

Video: hyacinth forcing technology

How to care for hyacinth

Hyacinth cannot grow at home for several years. The bulb is subjected to distillation once. At this time, she loses a lot of strength and it is unlikely that she will be able to achieve excellent flowering again. After forcing the bulb can be planted in the garden.

Watering and feeding

Hyacinth is a moisture-loving flower. The plant must be watered regularly, after the top layer of the earth has dried. In this case, it is recommended to pour water only along the edge of the container, since the ingress of liquid into the axils of the leaf blades can cause the death of the hyacinth. The procedure requires soft settled water at room temperature. Ideally, if it is rain or melt. Additional moisture in the form of spraying the flower is not needed.

When distilling hyacinth in water, it is necessary to periodically add it to the vessel. Experienced flower growers recommend adding not water, but a weak solution of complex fertilizer. For top dressing, you can use a universal preparation for bulbs, diluting the solution in half the dose recommended by the manufacturer.

Hyacinths grown in soil mix also respond well to top dressing. The color of the flowers becomes brighter, and the flowering period lasts much longer. As a fertilizer, it is recommended to use universal preparations for bulbous or flowering plants. The procedure should be carried out 1 time per week during the period from the moment the leaves appear until the flowering of the plant. After this, feeding should be completely stopped.

Features of plant care after flowering

After the hyacinth flowers wither, the peduncle should be cut off. During this period, you should completely stop feeding, but continue to water the flower until the leaf blades turn yellow. During this period, the number and volume of irrigation should be reduced by about half. It is not necessary to cut off the yellowed leaves, they should die off naturally.

How to provide a hyacinth dormant period

When the leaf blades wither, remove the bulb from the pot. Dry it for five to seven days in a well-ventilated place at a temperature of about 20-22°C. After that, remove all dead scales and cut off the roots. Give the hyacinth bulb a "sleep" period, which should last approximately 3 months. During the forcing, the bulb is greatly depleted and it is impossible to re-expose it to the procedure. The plant can be planted in August in the garden and enjoy its flowering for several more seasons.

Table: consequences of improper care and what to do to solve problems

Methods for the treatment and prevention of diseases and pests: table

Hyacinth is practically not affected by diseases and pests, but only if the planting material was healthy and the care of the plant was correct. Sometimes, under adverse conditions, the flower can be damaged by yellow bacterial rot, and pests of hyacinth can attack root mites, stem nematodes and aphids.

Reproduction of hyacinths at home

There are various ways to propagate hyacinths: baby bulbs, bulb scales and seeds. As a rule, amateur flower growers use only vegetative methods, and seed hybridizers are used to breed new varieties.

Reproduction by baby bulbs

With natural reproduction per year, an adult specimen forms only 1–2 children (in rare cases, 3 or 4). They are separated from the mother bulb during digging after the end of flowering. The number of children can be increased by making a notch crosswise about 5 mm deep on the bottom. In a year, such a bulb will give twice as many children, which, after digging and drying, must be separated and planted for growing.

Reproduction by scales - a step-by-step master class

How to propagate hyacinth seeds

Hyacinth is propagated by seeds, planting them in the garden. It is very difficult to create the necessary conditions indoors, so this method has not taken root among lovers of indoor floriculture.

As you know, this flower is one of the first to bloom in the garden at the beginning of the season and pleases gardeners with bright and unusually fragrant flowers. Hyacinths amaze with an extensive range of colors: from white and pale yellow through different shades of pink and purple to burgundy, purple and even black. Hyacinth ( Hyacinthus) is a versatile plant that is suitable for open ground, for early forcing indoors, as well as for cutting. About the features of growing hyacinths - this article.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus). © Anastasia

Botanical description of the plant

The hyacinth bulb is dense, consisting of fleshy grassroots leaves, occupying with their bases the entire circumference of the bottom of the bulb. The flowering stem is a direct continuation of the bottom, which is nothing more than the lower, greatly shortened and thick part of the stem.

After the flowering of the hyacinth, the green flower-bearing stem, together with the green leaves sitting at the very bottom with it, dries up, but in the corner of the uppermost of the green leaves, a bud is formed on the stem, inside the bulb, which little by little grows and turns into a young bulb that blooms on next year. In this young hyacinth bulb, in autumn, the stalk with flowers of the next year is already completely laid, of course, in the most compressed form.

In addition to this young bulb, other weaker bulbs, the so-called babies, are often formed in the corners of the remaining green leaves, which can be separated. Three years later they can bloom.

Hyacinth flowers are collected at the top of the stem in the form of a brush. Their perianth, in the form of a bell-shaped funnel, is brightly colored and has curved lobes.

Fruit in the form of a leathery box with three nests containing two seeds each with a fragile skin.

Choosing a place for hyacinths in the garden

The place for hyacinths should be well lit and protected from strong winds. Some flower growers recommend planting them, like other bulbs, next to shrubs and trees. It is unlikely that this advice is good. Yes, there is enough sun in spring, but the roots of trees and shrubs absorb nutrients from the soil to the detriment of hyacinths.

The site for hyacinths is preferably flat, preferably with a slight slope, providing water runoff during spring snowmelt and during heavy rains. Prolonged flooding leads to mass diseases and the death of bulbs. Groundwater should lie no closer than 50-60 cm. At a high level, drainage is done or bulk ridges are arranged.

soil for hyacinths

Hyacinths need permeable, well-fertilized soils with a high content of humus, but fresh and slightly decomposed manure is unacceptable. River sand and peat are added to clay, dense soil. It is undesirable to grow hyacinths on acidic soils. Acidic soils must be limed using chalk or limestone to a pH of at least 6.5.

Planting hyacinths

Experts advise preparing a site for planting hyacinths back in August, two months before planting the bulbs, otherwise the natural sedimentation of the soil can cause the roots to break, which will begin to develop in the fall.

The soil must be deeply cultivated, to a depth of 40 cm. For digging, humus or rotted manure is introduced at the rate of 10-15 kg per 1 m2, sand, peat and mineral fertilizers: per 1 m2 60-80 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium sulfate and 15 g of magnesium sulfate.

Potassium sulfate can be replaced with 200 g of wood ash, and magnesium sulfate - 250 g of dolomite flour. On sandy soils, the doses of potash and magnesium fertilizers should be increased by 1.5 times. As for nitrogen fertilizers, they are best applied in the spring-summer period in the form of dressings.

In the conditions of central Russia, hyacinth bulbs are planted in late September - early October. If planted too early, hyacinths can start growing and die in winter, and if planted too late, they will not have time to take root before the soil freezes to the planting depth.

When planting hyacinths, D. G. Hession recommends, in addition to respecting the depth and density of planting, remember two things: firstly, choose not the largest bulbs for planting, which are intended for forcing, but medium-sized bulbs, the so-called "flower bed", giving more weather-resistant flower stalks; secondly, well-rotted compost or peat must be added to the wells during planting, if it was not added during the preliminary digging of the soil.

However, hyacinths can be planted until the first half of November. But then the place should be insulated in advance with leaves or other material from those at hand, and protected with a film from rain and snow. And after landing, lay the insulation again.

The feeding area of ​​hyacinth bulbs is 15x20 cm. The planting depth from the bottom of the bulbs is 15-18 cm for collapsible, large bulbs, about 5 cm in diameter. Small bulbs and babies are planted thicker and not so deep.

For hyacinths, as for all bulbs, landing in a "sand shirt" is very desirable.

At the same time, the technology does not change: pure river sand is poured into the bottom of the groove or hole with a layer of 3-5 cm. The bulb is slightly pressed into it, then covered with sand, and then with soil. This technique will eliminate the rotting of the bottoms of the bulbs, protect against infection in the soil, and improve drainage. If the ground is dry, plantings should be watered to improve the rooting of the bulbs.

Eastern hyacinth "Atlantic" (Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Atlantic’). © Villu Lukk Oriental hyacinth "Red Magic" (Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Red Magic’). © Villu Lukk Oriental hyacinth "Carnegie" (Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Carnegie’). © Villu Lukk

If there are a lot of hyacinths, they are planted on ridges 15-20 cm high to protect the bulbs from melt water. In spring, the ridges warm up quickly, they have good aeration of the upper layer. In addition, it is easy to install a film shelter on the ridges. Planted in rows at a distance of 20-25 cm, between adjacent bulbs in a row leave at least 3 bulb diameters (for adult bulbs -12-15 cm).

With the onset of persistent cold weather, it is advisable to think about sheltering plantings of hyacinths. To do this, you can use mulching materials such as dry peat, humus, sawdust, as well as dry fallen leaves and spruce branches, and in the spring, as soon as the soil begins to thaw, the shelter must be carefully removed, since hyacinth sprouts appear very early.

Hyacinth Care

Hyacinths are a demanding crop. The soil around the plantings must be kept in a clean state, loosen it several times during the season, and be sure to water it in dry times (the water should soak the earthen ball to a depth of 15-20 cm). During the growing season, plants should be fed 2-3 times. An important preventive measure is the removal of diseased plants from the site (culling is carried out 2-3 times). The peduncle must be cut with a sharp knife; if the inflorescence is not cut off, then at the end of flowering it is necessary to cut off the flowers, leaving the peduncle.

Fertilizers for hyacinths can be applied dry or dissolved in water. In the latter case, fertilizers are taken somewhat less, and the soil is well moistened before fertilizing. The first feeding should be given at the beginning of plant growth (20-25 g of saltpeter and 15-20 g of superphosphate per square meter landings). 2nd - during the budding period (30-35 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium sulfate). 3rd - at the end of flowering (30-35 g of superphosphate and 30-35 g of potassium sulfate). Hyacinths can be fed with micronutrient fertilizers (applied in the same quantities as under tulips). After fertilizing, the soil is loosened, closing the fertilizer with a chopper.

Hyacinths after flowering

If the bulbs of Dutch hyacinths are left outdoors after flowering, they will bloom worse in the second year. Therefore, it is better to wait until the leaves of hyacinths turn yellow and dig up the bulbs.

The famous Russian florist A. Razin noted that the end of June-beginning of July is the most best time for digging hyacinths. Despite the troubles, the florist believed that one of the conditions for the successful cultivation of hyacinths is the annual digging of the bulbs. It allows you to inspect the bulbs, separate the babies for growing, process the bulbs in order to prevent diseases and protect against pests, and destroy diseased specimens. A. Razin dug up the bulbs, washed them with clean water, and then dried them under a canopy in the shade. The florist laid the bulbs dug, dried and peeled from leaves and roots for storage.

Storing hyacinth bulbs

Storing dug bulbs is the most crucial period. It was at this time that the process of inflorescence formation takes place in the bulb. Its various stages require different temperatures in a certain duration and sequence. Dug hyacinths are more demanding of heat than tulips or daffodils.

Immediately after digging, hyacinth bulbs are dried for 5-7 days at 20 ° C in a dark, ventilated room, cleaned of earth and root residues, then sorted by size and placed in boxes in no more than 2 layers. Small children are not separated.

If there are few bulbs, it is convenient to store them in paper bags with labels. Further storage of large flowering bulbs of hyacinths is recommended to be carried out in 2 stages: the first - at elevated temperatures, the second - pre-planting.

At the first stage, hyacinth bulbs contain at least 2 months at 25..26°C, and at the second - 1 month at 17°C. The humidity in the room should not be too low, otherwise the bulbs will dry out. If you want to shorten the first stage by a week, then in the first week of the first stage, raise the temperature to 30 ° C (the room must be well ventilated).

It is easy to calculate that the total duration of the preparatory period is not less than 95 days. Plus, before planting, it is useful to hold the hyacinth bulbs in a cold room at temperatures close to the outside. So it turns out that the bulbs, in order to plant them in the ground in the first decade of October, must be dug out later than the beginning of July. Late digging and storage of bulbs at too low a temperature are the main reasons for the further poor flowering of hyacinths.

Often during storage, numerous small babies form around the bottom of hyacinth bulbs. They break off easily, and therefore bulbs with children should be planted in the ground especially carefully. At the same time, the planting depth must be halved and it is imperative to cover the planted bulbs with a layer of mulch, increasing it compared to conventional shelter. Such children grow 4-5 years. It is very simple to cause their formation: immediately after digging, firmly wipe the bottom of the bulb with a dry cloth, removing the roots.

Propagation of hyacinths

When breeding new varieties of hyacinths, the seed method is used. Seedlings do not repeat external signs parent plants. They bloom only after 5-7 years. Seeds are sown in autumn, at the end of September, in boxes with soil composed of humus, leaf soil and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1, and grown for the first 2 years in cold greenhouses.

Natural reproduction of hyacinths is slow. For a year, an adult bulb, depending on the variety, forms 1-2 children, rarely 3 or 4, and even more rarely their number can reach 5-8.

If the hyacinth babies are well separated from the mother bulb, they are grown separately. If the children do not separate well, the daughter bulbs do not break off and the mother bulb with the children is planted.

In industrial floriculture, hyacinths do not propagate by natural division, but practice artificial way breeding. To quickly obtain a large number of bulbs, they resort to special methods of forced reproduction of hyacinths.

Since the scaly leaves of the membranous bulbs are very large, cover almost the entire bulb and are not as easily separated from the base as the scales of the imbricate bulbs, until new plants form, the incised scaly leaves of the membranous bulbs should be left unseparated from the bottom.

This principle is used in two methods of reproduction by dissecting bulbs: cutting and cutting the bottom. True, in this case, the bulbs are first injured, and then slowly die.

Hyacinth bulbs intended for artificial propagation must undergo pre-treatment: they are disinfected in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, and then dried for at least 2 days at a temperature of +20..+23 ºС.

F. McMillan Brouse in the book "Propagation of Plants" describes in detail both methods of forced reproduction of hyacinths.

Cutting the bottom of hyacinth bulbs

This operation is carried out at the end of the dormant period of the bulbs. To successfully cut the bottom, minimally damaging the bulb, you should pick up a tool. It is best to use a teaspoon with a sharp edge for this, with which the bottom is cut out. The rest of the hyacinth bulb is left intact, and then it is checked whether all the scaly leaves have had their bases removed. This can be done with a knife, but it is easy to damage the center of the bulb with it.

To reduce the likelihood of diseases, the surface of cuts of scaly leaves is treated with a fungicide. The bulbs are placed in boxes in an inverted position with the cut up. They can also be stored on wire mesh or a dry sand tray.

To cause the formation of callus at the base of the scales and delay the possible spread of diseases, the bulbs are kept at a temperature not lower than +21°C. After about two to three months, young onions form on the cuts of the scales. On one bulb of hyacinths, 20-40 children can form.

The mother bulb in the same inverted position is planted in a pot so that the children are slightly covered with the substrate. Plants are hardened and then kept in a cold greenhouse. In the spring, the bulbs will begin to grow and form leaves, and the old bulb will gradually collapse. At the end of the growing season, young bulbs are dug up, divided and seated for growing. Young plants can bloom in 3-4 years.

Cutting the bottom of hyacinth bulbs

Hyacinths can be propagated faster if you use a method similar to the previous one. The only difference is that instead of cutting the bottom, only a few cuts up to 0.6 cm deep are made on the bottom of the bulb.

On a large bulb of hyacinth, usually 4 cuts are made at right angles to each other (two intersecting cruciform ones), and on smaller ones, it is enough to make 2 cuts. In this case, the number of bulbs formed decreases, but they are larger.

Hyacinth bulbs are pre-disinfected in the same way as when cutting the bottom. The incised bulbs are placed for a day in a dry, warm place (+ 21 ° C): under these conditions, the incisions open better. When the incisions open, they are treated with a fungicide.

The subsequent operations and storage conditions of the bulbs are the same as in the previous method. As a result, onions are formed in the amount of 8-15 pieces, which will take 2-3 years to grow. Cutting and notching the bottom is used not only for the propagation of hyacinths. These methods are also used in the cultivation of daffodils, snowdrops, muscari, sprouts, white flowers.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus). © el islandes

Diseases and pests of hyacinths

In the open ground middle lane hyacinths almost do not suffer from diseases and pests. More dangers lie in wait for them in greenhouses and during forcing. If, nevertheless, hyacinths get sick in the flower garden, most often this is caused by:

1. Acquisition of already infected material;
2. Planting on heavy acidic waterlogged soil;
3. The use of fresh manure or excess mineral fertilizers;
4. Planting after unfavorable predecessors (other bulbs, as well as root crops);
5. The bulbs were not rejected during the growing season, after digging, during storage and before planting;
6. They forgot about prevention (treating the bulbs, and when forcing - the soil);
7. Landings were thickened.

When damaged by pests, hyacinths lag behind in growth, their flower stalks are twisted, there is early yellowing and wilting. For the prevention of bulbs before planting, they are pickled in one of the phosphorus-containing preparations for 15-20 minutes. Sick hyacinths are dug up and destroyed, and the rest are also treated with phosphorus-containing preparations.

Of the diseases, yellow bacterial rot is more common than others. With it, the tissues of the bulb turn into mucus with a sharp unpleasant odor. During the growing season, the disease can be detected by stunting, the appearance of stripes and spots on the peduncle and leaves, and their decay. Bulbs have clear signs of damage. In all cases, diseased plants and bulbs are destroyed (it is best to burn). The hole is etched with 5% formalin or bleach, where hyacinths can be returned only after a few years.

In hyacinths, the phenomenon of inflorescence loss is often encountered: the inflorescence, having barely appeared above the ground, falls out of the rosette of leaves. This phenomenon is not associated with a disease of the plant, but is explained by physiological reasons - an increase in root pressure. It is caused by excess moisture in the soil, storage of bulbs at insufficiently high temperature and early dates planting bulbs.

Types of hyacinths

There are different views on the taxonomy of the genus. According to some researchers, it has up to 30 species, others consider it monotypic, i.e. with one species, but which has a large number of varieties and forms. Hyacinth grows wild in the countries of the Eastern Mediterranean and Central Asia.

From myself I will add a beautiful legend that is associated with the name of the flower. It comes from the name of the hero of Greek mythology - a beautiful young man named Hyakinthos (or Hyakinthus from Amikl), with whom the sun god Apollo was in love.

Once, during training in discus throwing, the jealous god of the West Wind Zephyr, who was also in love with Hiakintos, mortally wounded the young man. On the site of the spilled blood of Hyakinthos, a charming flower grew, which Apollo named in honor of his deceased loved one.

Hyacinth is a bulbous plant that blooms in the first half of spring. The hyacinth has predominantly one flowering stem, surrounded by oblong leaves of bright green color.

Hyacinth is a perennial flower, although in Western countries the bulbs of faded plants are discarded. But with proper care, hyacinth is able to bloom for several years in a row.

From this article you will learn the basic information for caring for hyacinth at home.

Types of hyacinth

There are several varieties of hyacinth. For example, Amethyst, La Victoire, Rosalia, Ostara, Oriental, Hyacinth Litvinova, Transcaspian.

The most common are varieties of Eastern Hyacinth. Plants of this species are distinguished by a thin flowering stem and a rare arrangement of flowers. Unlike the Transcaspian Hyacinth, which is always light blue, Eastern Hyacinth varieties come in different colors.

For example, white pearl It has White color and a strong sweet smell. Its flowers are dense in the form of bells, united in a cylindrical brush.

plant varieties yellow queen yellow color. They have large flowers up to 4 cm in diameter.

Flowers tea rose Pink colour. They form a lush 15-cm inflorescence. Tea Rose blooms in the 2nd half of April - early May for 2 weeks.

Hyacinth care after purchase

The first thing to do after acquiring a hyacinth is transplanting into a new pot. Store capacity in most cases is not suitable for growing plants. Therefore, choose a pot according to the size. It should not be too big and not too small.

IMPORTANT!

Do not forget about the pallet and drainage. Water should not linger in a container with a flower, otherwise it will rot.

At the first transplant, it is not necessary to clean the hyacinth bulb from the ground. Just transfer the earth ball to a new pot and add the right amount of soil.

After transplanting, the soil under the hyacinth should be watered with a solution of phytosporin. This is necessary for disinfection.

When the plant takes root in a new place, you can increase the frequency of watering and fertilizing and carry them out until the end of flowering.

After that, watering should be gradually reduced so that the hyacinth leaves dry out. When all the leaves fall off, the bulb needs to be dug up and prepared for the new season.

Growing conditions

Hyacinth is a rather capricious plant to the conditions of detention. Therefore, in order to achieve flowering from it, a number of rules must be observed. However, there is nothing too complicated about them.

Temperature

Hyacinth loves moderate temperatures in the region of 20-22 degrees. In order for your flower to live longer, try not to expose it to sudden changes in temperature, do not overcool or overheat it.

Drafts, heaters, direct sunlight - all this can destroy the plant. In the second half of spring and summer, hyacinth can be taken out onto the street or balcony. Still, initially this is a street plant, and fresh air will only benefit him.

Air humidity

Hyacinth loves a dry room that is well ventilated. But remember that you should not allow the plant to stay in a draft. It is not necessary to spray hyacinth, and during flowering it is completely contraindicated.

Lighting

The most important component of hyacinth care is lighting. After planting the bulb, the pot should be placed in a dark room for 1.5 - 2 months. This is necessary for the normal development of the plant root.

After the appearance of the first shoots, the lighting should be gradually increased. After about 2.5 - 3 months, the hyacinth will grow to 2.5 cm. Now it can be rearranged in partial shade.

The plant is rearranged into the light only when the buds appear.

IMPORTANT!

Avoid direct sunlight on the hyacinth. Only adult plants can be taken out to the sun and only for a few hours in the morning and evening.

Choosing a place to put

The flower is advised to be placed on a south or southeast window closer to natural light and away from heating appliances.

Also, a plant pot can be placed in the center of the room if your windows face north.

How does it look in the interior?

Hyacinth creates a romantic atmosphere not only thanks to its appearance but also with a pleasant sweet aroma.

In the interior, hyacinths are accents and decorative elements such as figurines, paintings and photographs. The flower is usually not placed next to other plants, as if opposing them with hyacinth. But, if you have several pots of hyacinths at once, then you can combine them into one composition.

Currently, a trend is gaining popularity in which hyacinth bulbs are placed in transparent vases. This is done to perceive the plant as a whole, as a single living organism.

Features of care at different times

Caring for hyacinths at home is a lot like caring for flowers outdoors. For a hyacinth in a pot, the conditions of "winter", "spring", etc. are also created.

autumn

Autumn is the time for planting hyacinths. The pot with the bulb is placed in a dark room and waiting for the first shoots.

in winter

The first shoots of hyacinth appear in winter. For the plant, gradually increase the amount of light. Early varieties at the end of winter are transferred to the windowsill so that they bloom by March 8.

spring

Spring is the season for hyacinths to bloom. During this period of time, active watering and top dressing are carried out. Blooms in late spring late varieties and hybrids. The process of preparing the hyacinth bulb for rest begins.

In summer

In summer, indoor hyacinth rests. The onion is stored in the refrigerator until autumn. Interestingly, without cold, the plant will not bloom well.

Flowering conditions

At home, hyacinth blooms in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area. An important component of flowering is sunlight. It must be in abundance. Ideally, at least 15 hours. The soil in the pot should be well moistened.

How many hyacinths bloom in a pot?

Hyacinth blooms in spring from March to May for 1 to 2 weeks. Although some craftsmen are able to prolong flowering for a whole month. You can guess the flowering time yourself by forcing the plant.

Blue hyacinths are the first to bloom. Then - pink, white, red, lilac, yellow and, finally, orange.

Care during flowering

The flowering period of the hyacinth is short, but at this time you need to take special care of the conditions for its maintenance.

• The soil should be moist and loose.
• The temperature in the room is 20-22 degrees.
• The air is dry.
• The room should be ventilated, but there should be no drafts.
• Sufficient amount of lighting.
• The plant must be fertilized.

Proper care will prolong your pet's flowering and make its flowers brighter and more saturated.

Care after flowering

After flowering, the hyacinth also needs to be taken care of. Care during this period includes pruning the plant, reducing watering and preparing the bulb for the new season.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

1. The plant is pruned. Don't cut too short. Leave shoots 15 cm long.
2. The frequency of watering is reduced. It is necessary to pour water only when the earth is completely dry.
3. Watering stops when the leaves turn yellow. Now you need to wait until they dry and fall off.
4. The bulb is dug out of the ground.

What to do with the bulb after flowering?

When the flowering of the hyacinth ends, the bulb must be prepared for storage until the next season.

NOTE!

This is very important, otherwise the plant may never bloom again.

First, the root system is cleared of earth and husks. Then the bulb is treated with a solution of manganese. Thus, disinfection is carried out. Next, the root is dried. To do this, the bulb is taken out into the street or placed in a ventilated room. The optimum temperature for drying the root system is 20 ° C. And be sure to make sure that the bulb does not roast in the sun.

Hyacinth roots prepared in this way are stored in boxes or paper bags for storage. If there are several bulbs, then they need to be sprinkled with sawdust.

How to choose bulbs when buying?

1. The bulb must be at least 5 cm in diameter. For the garden, you can take a smaller size.
2. The bulb should not have rot, cuts or other damage.
3. The bulb should be smooth to the touch.
4. Inspect the seed for visible signs of disease and pest infestation.
5. The bulb should be firm to the touch.
6. The diameter of the bulb should be 1.5 times the diameter of its bottom. If the ratio is less, then the seed is unsuitable for cultivation.

What is forcing and how to do it?

Forcing is the forced acceleration of the growth process of plants. Usually distillation is done so that hyacinths bloom at a certain time.

There are two options for distillation: in the ground and in the water.

Distillation happens:

• Early. Planting is done in mid-October, and flowering begins in the 20th of December.
• Medium. Planting is done in November, and flowering begins on the 20th of January.
• Late. Planting is done immediately after the New Year, and flowering begins in the first decade of March.

Forcing in soil is basically just growing a houseplant. Only the timing of flowering is selected.

Distillation in water is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Boiled water at room temperature is poured into a clean container.
2. The bulb is placed in a container so that the bottom barely touches the water.
3. Bulbs are transferred to a cool dark place.
4. After the roots appear, the containers are covered with paper and rearranged in the light.
5. When green sprouts grow 2-3 cm, the paper must be removed.
6. After that, the hyacinth will begin to bloom in about 90 days.

Features of care during the rest period

An important feature of hyacinth cultivation is dormancy care. Of the whole plant, only the bulb remains, which needs to be rested. To do this, it is cleaned, disinfected and placed in a cold place. Most often it is a refrigerator.

It is very important to keep the planting material in the cold and dark. This gives rest to the roots. They are gaining strength for a new flowering. If you store hyacinth in a warm and bright room, then the flower will grow ugly and crooked. In the worst case, it will not bloom at all.

Transfer

Before transplanting, the hyacinth should be given time to get used to the new home. Observe the temperature regime, water regularly and do not feed the plant.

An important point is the desired level of lighting (about 15 hours a day).

After 10 days, the flower can be transplanted.

The pot should be such that the bulb does not touch its walls. Before planting, the root is inspected and disinfected. If there is any damage, then they need to be sprinkled with crushed activated or charcoal.

Having planted a hyacinth in a new pot, it is rearranged in coolness. It is necessary to water only through the pan and only after the soil has completely dried. The first top dressing should be started no earlier than after 3 weeks.

After the plant adapts, it can be moved to a permanent place.

Landing

Before planting, be sure to prepare the pot. The container is sized appropriately. Drainage is laid at the bottom: expanded clay of fine fraction. Then soil mixed with sand is poured on top. The bulb is screwed into the ground like a light bulb. Depth - about 2/3 of the size of the planting material. The top of the bulb must be above the ground.

Some experienced florists plant several plants in one pot at once. But, if you are just starting to deal with flowers, it is better not to do this.

After planting, the flower is placed in a dark, cool room.

reproduction

Unlike other flowers, hyacinth reproduces very reluctantly. There are 2 more or less working ways to propagate a plant. But they do not give a 100% guarantee.

Note that once propagated, new plants will not flower for at least 1 year after transplanting.

The first method is aimed at dividing the flower bulb. To do this, before landing on the bottom, two cuts are made with a cross. As a result, the bulb will be divided into 4 parts. Each of them can then be used separately.

The second way is to grow "kids". The bulb is not planted vertically, but laid on its side. The resulting "children" after flowering are cut off and stored as separate bulbs. In the new season, they are seated separately in new pots.

Is pruning necessary?

Hyacinth pruning is carried out without fail after the flowering of the plant.

First, the peduncle is cut off. No need to cut "under the root". Leave about 12-15 cm.

Now you need to wait for the leaves to dry. To speed up this process, watering the plant is usually reduced. Once all the leaves have dried, they are removed with scissors.

On this pruning of hyacinth ends until next year.

Watering

During the flowering period, the plant needs to be watered often and in large quantities. Hyacinth generally likes moist soil. But there are two important things.

Firstly, in no case should moisture be allowed to get on the leaves, buds, bulbs and stems.

Secondly, water stagnation should not be allowed.

therefore the best solution- water the walls of the pot or pour water into the pan.

Also, do not forget that drainage from coarse sand and expanded clay or small pebbles must be laid in the pot.

top dressing

Like most other houseplants, hyacinths need to be fed frequently during flowering and growth, and significantly reduced in dormant feedings.

The first feeding is carried out in the first days after the hyacinth moves from a dark room to the light. It is necessary to apply fertilizers that contain phosphorus.

The next planned top dressing is carried out when the peduncle begins to actively grow in the hyacinth. Nitrogen and phosphate fertilizers are applied to the soil in liquid form.

The third main top dressing is carried out after the end of flowering. Use potassium and superphosphate.

IMPORTANT!

So that the soil is completely saturated beneficial substances, after top dressing, be sure to loosen the soil.

Different varieties

Hyacinth has many varieties and hybrids that differ in the size and color of inflorescences, timing and duration of flowering. Here are the most popular ones:

• woodstock. This hyacinth has a dark purple color and a large fluffy peduncle.

• Orange Boven. A variety of pink-apricot color with dark tips of the petals.

• Royal Navy. The double flowers of this variety are bright purple.

• Raphael has a peduncle, on which flowers with thin petals are located.

• Midnight Mystique has a unique almost completely black color.

• Variety Carnegie the flowers are almost perfectly white.
• Rosalia has bright, but at the same time delicate pink flowers.

Diseases and pests

Hyacinth most often suffers from the following diseases and pests:

From all these diseases and pests, the hyacinth root system suffers the most. For example, with yellow bacterial rot, the bulb begins to liquefy, appears bad smell and the plant dies.

Aficides are used for treatment and prevention. For example, "Accord", "Akarin", "Fitoverm".

How to revive?

Instructions for revitalizing a dying flower.

1. We remove all dried leaves with scissors or a clerical knife. We leave about 2 cm of the plant.
2. We place the pot with the remains of hyacinth in a plastic bag or a plastic box with ventilation holes.
3. We place the hyacinth in the refrigerator for 2-3 months.
4. After the expiration of the term, we take out the flower from the refrigerator, clean the bulb from the ground and remove the old rotten roots.
5. Preparing a new pot. It should be larger than the old one, and drainage should be laid at the bottom. The drainage layer must be at least 2 cm.
6. We screw the bulb into the ground, leaving 1/3 of the root on the surface.
7. Optionally, sanding can be done.
8. Plentifully water the soil around the planted bulb, preventing drops from falling on the root itself.
9. We put the pot in a completely dark room. If this is not the case, then we put a black garbage bag on the pot and put it away from the window in the darkest corner. Do not forget to make holes in the bag for air access.
10. Ideally, the temperature in the room should be no higher than 15 degrees.
11. Periodically check the hyacinth. As soon as the sprouts reach at least 4 cm, we rearrange the plant in the sun.

Common mistakes

• Acquisition of "bad" bulbs. To grow a beautiful and healthy plant, you need high-quality seed.
• Applying too much mineral fertilizer. An excess of nutrients does not bring any benefit, but only harms your pet. Fertilizers need to be applied in the right quantities and at certain periods of time.
• After flowering, the bulb was not properly prepared for the new season. In order for the hyacinth to bloom annually, the bulb must be allowed to rest. For this, there is a certain algorithm of actions.

• Wrong watering. Hyacinth should be watered so as not to get moisture on the plant. Otherwise, the flower will begin to rot and become an easy target for diseases and pests.
• Poorly chosen place for the plant. Before placing a flower in your room, make sure it is out of direct sunlight, drafty, or near radiators.
• Incorrect bulb storage. Planting material should be stored in a cool, dark place. Keeping warm during the dormant period will lead to a curvature of the peduncle.

Answers to popular questions

The hyacinth peduncle is very small. What's the matter?

Most likely, the preparation of the bulb was not carried out and unnecessary roots were not removed. In order for the peduncle to be large and beautiful, the bulb must be one.

The hyacinth has blossomed. What to do?

Unlike other plants, hyacinth after flowering cannot be left just like that until next spring. The bulb needs to be dug up and provided with a dormant period. How to do this is described in the corresponding chapter of our article.

How to propagate hyacinth?

There are 2 ways to propagate hyacinth.

1. The bulb is planted sideways in the soil. So she forms "kids", which can then be planted as independent bulbs.
2. A cross-shaped shallow incision is made at the bottom of the root. The onion is divided, and from one it turns out 4.

Please note that new seedlings will bloom only after a year.

Why does the hyacinth grow leaves, but he himself does not bloom?

The most likely reason for the lack of flowering is improper planting. AT next year transplant the flower into a new pot with properly laid drainage and suitable soil.

Useful video

Conclusion

Hyacinth care is quite complicated and requires strict adherence to all rules. You need to follow the flower even during its dormant period.

But, on the other hand, blooming hyacinth will become a real decoration of your home.

Hyacinth is a wonderful bulbous plant that decorates garden beds every spring. Charming dense plumes of blue, pink, red, yellow and amethyst flowers are not only graceful and elegant - the flowers exude a thick unique aroma. If the petals have opened on just one flower from a dense bud, you can immediately recognize by the aroma that hyacinths have bloomed. The flowering of this plant fascinates, the aroma fascinates, lovers often have a desire to grow a hyacinth in a pot. Is there an indoor hyacinth and how to care for it - the answers in this article.

Joint plantings of several varieties with different colors look great.

Hyacinth is a bright and spectacular flower, naturally distributed in the Mediterranean, the Middle East and the Transcaucasus. Modern cultivars simply amaze with splendor and splendor, so hyacinths are very popular with lovers of garden flowers. But culture successfully blooms in the room, fragrant bouquets decorate window sills in winter, filling the room with fragrant fragrance.

The plant belongs to the spring ephemeroids - the leaves grow in early April, by the middle of the month powerful flower stalks rise from the outlet, which turn into charming lush flowers. Given that the flowering of the crop occurs in the spring, planting in garden beds is carried out in the fall, the operation should be completed before the onset of frost. In the southern regions, plantings are not closed from frost; in the middle lane, additional shelter should be provided, which is dismantled in early spring with the first thaws. The depth of planting the bulb in the ground is up to 20 cm (the depth depends on the height of the planting material, it is determined individually for each specimen).

After flowering, the leaves gradually fade, in June it is already difficult to find a place in a garden bed where fragrant beauties bloomed. In July, the bulbs are dug up, processed, dried and stored until autumn planting. Bulbs can not be dug up, provided that the flower bed will not be used for planting summer crops that require frequent watering. An abundance of moisture can cause hyacinths to rot in the ground. It should be remembered that hyacinths that grow in one place for several years without a transplant become smaller, grow and go deeper.

Hyacinths at room conditions: cultivation and care

Hyacinth grade "Amethyst".

Anticipating numerous questions, I will answer right away - indoor hyacinths do not exist, ordinary garden plants are grown at home using special forcing agricultural techniques. There is nothing complicated in this operation - just remember some rules:

• Large full-weight bulbs, heavier than the rest, are selected for distillation.
• It is impossible to put weak, irregularly shaped bulbs with a damaged bottom, whose diameter is less than 5 cm, for distillation. Flowers from such specimens may not develop at all or the plant will bloom weakly and ugly.
• You can make hyacinths bloom by a certain day, for this they count back from the date of the event 3 - 3.5 months. Need flowers by March 8? Plant bulbs for distillation from late November to December 10th. Want to get a fragrant bouquet for the New Year? In this case, you can start planting bulbs in the period from October 20 to November 1.
• For successful flowering of hyacinth bulbs at room conditions, it is necessary to provide the plants with dark conditions at a temperature of +5C during the forcing period. Ideal conditions are a vegetable crate in the refrigerator, but only a few pots can be placed there. It is easy to isolate the bulbs from the light - together with the container they are wrapped in newspaper, blocking the access of light.
• Hyacinth bulbs are watered as needed (no more than 2-3 times during the forcing period).
• If the bulb has risen on its roots above the container, you just need to compress the earth around it without transplanting it into another pot.
• Distillation will be successful if one bulb (5 cm in diameter) is planted in a tight pot (8-10 cm), if hyacinths are planted in a bowl, a distance of 2-3 cm between individual bulbs must be observed.
• Hyacinth bulbs are planted in containers without being buried in the ground - they should rise 1/3 above the soil.

If everything is done correctly, as a result of the experiment, you can get charming flowers for any holiday or significant date for you. Hyacinth care is within the power of even an inexperienced grower.

Speaking of mixed distillation, for example, hyacinths and crocuses, it is worth noting that the crops bloom at different times, so first hyacinth bulbs are planted, and then (in a month) crocus bulbs are placed around them, after which the procedure continues in the usual manner (dark content, compliance temperature regime).

It is impossible to expose the pot of hyacinth to the light ahead of time - forcing is considered complete if a fully formed peduncle with green unpainted buds rises among the rosette of leaves.

Priming

An important feature in the process of growing hyacinth in winter at room conditions is the preparation of a balanced soil for forcing and successful flowering of this charming plant.

When planting bulbs for distillation, you can use ready-made soil; balanced soil mixtures for violets or begonias are best suited. You can add a little sand, a layer of drainage from fine expanded clay is laid on the bottom of the container.

At self-cooking soil for planting bulbs must be mixed in equal proportions of turf, humus, leaf soil, peat and sand.

Grow container

An ideal bouquet is obtained by planting several varieties in one container.

When choosing a container for distilling hyacinth, remember that it must be cramped. The material of manufacture is not important - it can be ceramic and plastic bowls, individual plastic pots. It is not recommended to use peat pots - they quickly lose their shape, which does not look aesthetically pleasing during the flowering of a charming plant.

Drainage holes should be made in all containers for growing a flower, if they are not.

Fabulously beautiful are blue or blue hyacinths planted in containers with Gzhel painting. It is not necessary to immediately plant the bulbs in an expensive spectacular pot, you can simply put flowering hyacinth grown in plastic cup, because the age of the flower is not long.

Flowering time

Among the known varieties, orange and yellow are considered the most rare.

Each hyacinth will delight with its lush flowering on the windowsill for only 7-10 days. You can extend the fabulous flowering by lowering the ambient temperature to + 13-15 C. Caring for the blooming hyacinth is simple - water the soil as needed, turn the pot with the plant, because bright flowers are drawn to the light.

Care after flowering

After flowering, a baby is formed on the bulbs, its quantity is not as numerous as in tulips.

After the flowering of the hyacinth ends, the plant loses its decorative effect. For some time the leaves are still green and retain their shape, but gradually the rosette falls apart, the leaves turn yellow and dry. Lovers continue to care for the plant, but often excessive watering leads to rotting of the bulbs, especially when watering the plant below.

Hyacinth after flowering requires mandatory care:

• Uniform watering - the plant must be carefully monitored, the soil should not be very dry or wet.
• Lighting - a pot with faded hyacinths is left on a light windowsill, at this time, children form near the bulb, which can be used to breed the plant.
• Peduncles - must be removed.

Remember that hyacinth bulbs after flowering cannot be reused for indoor cultivation - you need to plant them in the garden in order to restore the forces spent on forced flowering. After the leaves in the pot have withered, it is necessary to remove the bulbs, treat them with preparations for fungal infections, dry them and store them in a cool place until autumn. You can store the bulbs until planting in the refrigerator, wrapping them in several layers of thick paper.

After growing in a pot, the bulb should regain strength.

planted in open ground hyacinths along with other bulbs in mid-autumn. It is advisable to prepare a sunny area for planting without soaking with nutritious light soil.

The bulb does not always bloom profusely next spring, severely depleted specimens (which gave 2 or more peduncles) may not bloom at all. Take care of such plants more carefully - fertilize and water them on time.

For the next forcing, you can use bulbs after 1-2 years of cultivation in the garden.

Many flower growers keep young hyacinths at home in a pot, because this flower is very beautiful, bright, and during flowering fills the room with a delicate pleasant aroma creating a particularly cozy environment. Owners of household plots, among other things, thus try to keep the blooming hyacinth bought in winter until autumn in order to decorate the garden flower garden with it.

However, many people acquire this flower in order to replenish their indoor floristic collection, constantly updating it with the help of the “children” formed on the bulb.

Consider all the nuances of how to properly care for a hyacinth at home in a pot, but first take a look at the photo of this flower:

Landing and transplant

The bulbs are planted in a pot either one by one or three at a time. The bottom must be laid out with drainage(A 2-3 cm layer of sand is fine). Bulbs should not be buried completely: they should stick out a third above the ground.

Up to 2.5 months, newly planted bulbs will have to be kept in a dark place at + 5-9 degrees of heat(refrigerator is a great option) moisturizing periodically. They transplant (or rather, transfer along with a clod of earth) bulbs only if the former pot becomes cramped for them.

Read more about planting and transplanting plants.

Temperature

The most comfortable room hyacinth feels at a temperature between 20-22 degrees above zero. Drafts are dangerous for a flower, as well as the proximity of heating devices - this must be taken into account when choosing a place for a plant.

Watering

Hyacinths require abundant watering, but without waterlogging. Therefore, good drainage is so important: the soil should not dry out, but the water should not stagnate either.

It is also important to keep track of so that water does not fall on the buds, leaf axils, as well as the bulbs themselves, so it is better to refuse watering cans.

How to water a hyacinth in a pot so as not to damage it? Water carefully around the edge of the container.

The best water for watering hyacinth - rain or melt, stood in the room and warmed up to room temperature.

Lighting

Hyacinth does not like shade, so it requires at least 12 hours of light daily. With regard to the light source, it is not so demanding: in addition to sunlight, it is quite suitable artificial lighting. In order for it to be uniform, the container with hyacinth must be rotated periodically.

Cultivation and reproduction

To grow a hyacinth, you need bulbs from 6 cm in diameter- dense, without damage, aged in a dormant period during the summer.

Hyacinths are propagated at the end of summer or early autumn by “children” bulbs that form on an adult plant over time.

Also suitable for breeding scales and seeds, but the latter method is carried out only by specialists.

Bloom

Requires care and flowering hyacinth. Nature provided so that a hat of bright, fragrant, densely planted flowers appears in early spring.

On one copy, up to 30 flowers can bloom - tubular, bell-shaped or funnel-shaped.

Hyacinth flowering can be artificially timed to coincide with a certain period of time - this is called "forcing".

This course is influenced by the time of planting the bulb in the pot, the temperature and cooling period of the bulbs, as well as the process of forcing itself.

However, in the process, the bulb is greatly depleted, therefore, to restore strength after flowering, it is planted in the ground.

Find out in a separate article.

pruning

After the house hyacinth fades, it peduncle should be cut off. After that, when grown in a spacious pot with proper care, the hyacinth will begin to grow new strong leaves, thereby preparing for a new flowering.

What to do in spring?

Warmth, as well as long daylight hours, will help develop beautiful, strong flowers. Hyacinth in the spring requires only water and occasionally fertilize the plants by monitoring the temperature. For fertilizer, phosphate and nitrate are most often mixed.

We take care in winter

After the hyacinth has faded, the peduncle is cut off, but the plant must continue to be watered and even fed. As soon as the hyacinth leaves completely wither in winter, the bulb is taken out of the ground, cleaned of wilted leaves and dried for a couple of days. If there are well-developed "children" on the bulb, they can be separated.

If the "babies" have not yet grown stronger and are poorly separated from the mother's bulb, it is better to leave them until next year.

Next, the hyacinth bulb can be keep dry and cool until autumn landing in the garden area. Or continue to grow hyacinth as indoor plant, but in the fall, a ground planting is still necessary, since it will no longer be possible to re-grow a flowering plant from this bulb at home.

The soil

Hyacinth in a pot also requires a special attitude when caring at home for the soil. The composition of the earth for hyacinth can be different, the main thing is to not sour. A sand-peat mixture or compost mixed with sand will do. Upper layer hyacinth soil is also sprinkled with sand with a 1-centimeter layer to prevent rotting.

Some flower growers grow hyacinths without soil: in vases filled with water with mineral fertilizers dissolved in it.

Benefit and harm

Poisonous or not hyacinth flower? For some flower growers, caring for hyacinth at room conditions is a concern with the property that all parts are poisonous upon ingestion.

If you have small children or pets in your home, take care to place the flower in a place inaccessible to them, or refuse to grow hyacinth.

However, hyacinth may be beneficial. In particular, it is believed that smell has aphrodisiac properties, and also normalizes the activity of hormones, relieves stress, has a beneficial effect on the central nervous system.

Also hyacinth used in perfumery and cosmetology, but before using these products, consultation with a specialist is necessary, since hyacinth oil is a potent substance.

Diseases and pests

If you decide to start homemade hyacinth flowers in a pot, how to care for them at home is an important issue, if the plant is not properly cared for, it will get sick.

When caring for a home flower, hyacinth leaves may turn yellow due to inappropriate temperature conditions and also due to drafts. Lack of lighting will lead to wilting of the foliage.

If fallen buds, the cause, most likely, was improper watering or moisture on the flower. Signs of decay are caused by waterlogging. All this can be easily corrected by changing the mode of care for hyacinth.

Appearance black dots on the leaves and mucus around the bulb speaks of a more serious disease - yellow bacterial rot. It cannot be cured, you can only destroy the infected plant.

But the disease can be prevented: for this you need to observe the measure in watering, and before planting, hold the bulb in a preparation containing phosphorus.

Hyacinth pests include stem nematodes, root mites, and aphids. You can get rid of them with the help of special drugs, but you need to use them strictly before the formation of buds.

Now you know what a hyacinth flower is, how to care for this plant at home. A hyacinth grown and accustomed in a home pot is ready to be planted in a backyard flower garden. And in order to decorate the house with a new blooming hyacinth, you can use its “kids” bulbs.