Remontant strawberry varieties are demanding on watering and fertilizing, and some of them do not reproduce by runners. At the same time, these plants are highly resistant to disease and do not require shelter for the winter. Thanks to continuous flowering, the harvest can be harvested from early June to late August. It is recommended to select varieties for planting on the site that differ in terms of ripening, then it will be possible to enjoy ripe sweet berries almost all summer.

What does remontant strawberry mean?

Strawberries of remontant varieties have several flowering cycles and bear fruit several times during the summer with breaks of 1.5–2 weeks. The ripening period of berries can last until the end of September, especially in the southern regions of Russia.

Strawberries of remontant varieties can be enjoyed until frost

This variety of strawberry does not tolerate drafts or shading, but overwinters well without shelter. Modern selection allows you to enjoy the following berries:

• white-fruited, red, yellow, orange;
• different shapes and sizes;
• with classic strawberry flavor, nutmeg notes and pineapple aroma.

Different varieties of remontant strawberries differ in shape, color and taste.

Remontant varieties are day-neutral plants; regardless of the season, the fruiting of the berry crop is not interrupted, so the plant is often grown in pots on the windowsill. These strawberries need to be changed every two to three years; in the garden plot it is better to have beds of different ages: last year’s plants will produce the smallest harvest in the third year.

The ability of remontant strawberries to set buds at any time of the year, regardless of the continuation of daylight hours, does not guarantee a stable harvest in closed ground. The size and taste of berries grown at home differs significantly from summer strawberries ripening in the garden. Even if you manage to get berries on the windowsill, they may be smaller and more sour.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of remontant strawberries

How to grow remontant strawberries

In order for sweet, aromatic berries to grow in the garden all summer long, you need to take seriously the choice of placement of strawberries on the plot and the preparation of the planting site. It is necessary to carry out watering, pest control and weeding on time, and remove dry and damaged leaves from the area.

Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the soil between rows are mandatory activities in strawberry beds

Planting remontant strawberries

Strawberries are planted in the spring: from March 20 to mid-May, and in the fall at the beginning of September (until the 10th). When planted in spring, the plant develops a powerful root system during the summer and produces its first modest harvest for testing. Most often, in the spring, young seedlings grown from seeds and separated mother bushes - two-year-olds - are planted.

In the south, strawberries begin to be planted from the first ten days of March, in the middle zone from the end of March to the last ten days of April. In the north, the best time to plant remontant strawberries is the third ten days of May.

In autumn, planting begins on the 20th of August and is completed by September 10. In order for the bushes to take root, it is necessary to plant 3 weeks before the predicted frost. Autumn planting is suitable for propagating strawberries with mustaches; at this time, layering has well-developed roots.

When planting remontant strawberries at any time of the year, the daytime temperature should not be lower than +15 +18 °C, at night above +5 °C. The beds are placed to the southeast, preferably to the south.

Choose a site for strawberries that is sunny and located on a hill

Preparing the soil for planting

Remontant strawberries grow well on loose, light soils; sandy loam or loam soils with the addition of fertile peat (2-3 buckets per 1 m2) are perfect; 1.5 buckets of chicken manure per 1 m2 or 2 buckets of cow manure per 1 m2 are enough for the same area. Before planting, the area is cleared of weeds, roots and stones. To improve soil aeration and enrich it with useful substances, future beds are sown with green manure (phacelia, mustard, oats). This is done in the year preceding planting.

Oats are an excellent green manure of the cereal family, suitable for planting in future strawberry beds

In the fall, I add ammonium nitrate (100 g), half a bucket of ash and superphosphate (100–120 g) per square meter to the site of the future garden bed. And also in the process of preparing the site, I add a couple of buckets of rotted manure or when planting 1-2 handfuls in each hole; for remontant varieties, soil fertility is of great importance.

Svetlana

http://dachniiotvet.galaktikalife.ru/viewtopic.php?f=205&t=48&sid=

How to grow remontant strawberry varieties with seeds

It is best to plant remontant strawberry seeds after stratification (keeping the seeds at a certain temperature to speed up germination). They begin sowing at the end of January - beginning of February; the planting time is selected so that by the time it moves into open ground the plant is fully formed and strong. If sowing is late (at the end of February), seedlings will have to be planted on the plot in the summer heat. In this case, fragile young plants require shading and regular watering, that is, later planting is more troublesome.

For the first time, I planted remontant strawberry seeds in yogurt jars. Small and comfortable, they fit easily in your hand, and you could watch the barely noticeable shoots hatching. But after a month and a half, when the plants had three leaves, the bushes had to be replanted, since the soil in small containers dried out quickly. Important: strawberry seedlings do not tolerate waterlogging or drought equally; this causes instant death of fragile shoots.

I had to transplant small seedlings into cut-off liter plastic bottles (10 cm deep). In this container the bushes lived quietly until they were moved into the ground. But next time I took flower pots with a volume of 1.5 and 2 liters - this seemed most convenient for watering and loosening. A week after the emergence of shoots, I fed the sprouts with baker's yeast: I took dry yeast on the tip of a knife per liter of warm water, this feeding occurred regularly (every 5-7 days). Every two weeks I watered the roots with complex preparations: once with Aquarin, the second time with a humatized additive. The next feeding was done at the end of April already in the garden bed in the open ground (with mullein tincture in water at a ratio of 1:3 with the addition of 100 g of ash per bucket of solution).

For planting, choose a dish 10 cm deep filled with moist soil mixture, carefully scatter the seeds over the surface

At first, the container with seeds is covered with cling film to create a mini-greenhouse. After the seedlings hatch, the film will only do harm - in such conditions, fungi and mold quickly develop on the soil surface. The sprouts are placed on a south-facing window, excluding direct sunlight on the plants. Water gently at the root or spray as the soil surface dries. Using a thin stick or the tip of a knife, carefully loosen the top layer of soil along the mini-bed to improve air exchange in the roots.

Fragile strawberry sprouts require careful handling

The main thing in caring for strawberry sprouts for the first two months is not to harm them. The most accurate watering is obtained from a syringe; it allows you to irrigate only the surface of the soil, and it is easy to calculate the dosage of water down to the drops. It is convenient to loosen with a regular toothpick. If thin shoots are watered too much, they may stick to the soil and break. Loosening is also a delicate job; if you accidentally pick up fragile and long hair roots, the plant can be pulled out of the soil.

Video: remontant strawberries from seeds

At the phase of three to four leaves, the strawberries are picked; when the fifth and sixth leaves appear, the plant can be moved to open ground. First, the seedlings are taken out to the balcony or veranda for hardening. This is done daily for 2–4 hours a week before placing the seedlings in a permanent place.

To obtain seed at home, knead the berries well in warm water; after 10–15 minutes, the seeds settle to the bottom of the dish. The contents are poured onto the surface of the prepared soil substrate and covered with film for germination.

Seedlings of remontant varieties are planted in beds, the predecessors of which were green manure, root crops, and melons. It is better to do this in the morning or evening hours in cloudy weather at a temperature of +15+20 °C. In adult seedlings, the roots are shortened to 7–10 cm.

1. Before planting, the soil in the beds is mixed with superphosphate (150 g per 1 m2) and 1.5–2 buckets per square meter of rotted soft manure. The width of the beds is 2–3 meters, the distance between the bushes is 25–30 cm for small-fruited remontants, about 40 cm for large-fruited varieties.
2. Make 10 cm deep depressions in the holes and water (a liter is enough for a bush).
3. The plants are carefully removed from the seedling container, trying not to damage the long, thin roots, lowered into the planting hole and carefully sprinkled with soil. It is important to ensure that the growing point remains uncovered and that the leaves do not stick together or become wrinkled.
4. The root space is mulched with small sawdust.

When planting, make sure that the plant is not too deep

When the beds are ready, I form holes in which I put 2-3 granules of the mole cricket preparation. It is this pest that most often prevents plants from developing, eating up roots and young shoots at the base of the root. Since high humidity is always maintained in strawberry beds after planting in order for the cuttings and seedlings to take root, the mole cricket will definitely settle in the neighborhood. The pest prefers moist, loose soil; this is the kind of soil that is prepared for planting strawberries.

After 2–3 weeks, the first leaf will appear from the central bud. It's time to make the first fertilizing with mineral fertilizers for seedlings (according to the instructions). The next application of fertilizers is organized after 2 weeks, an infusion of organic matter and ash is prepared (1 kg of fresh manure, boric acid 1–2 g and half a glass of ash per 5 liters of warm water) and 250–300 g are used per bush. For the first two weeks, water the seedlings in the beds every 3-4 days.

Strawberry seedlings are ready for transplanting into open ground

If the weather is hot, the beds are shaded for the first time. To do this, pieces of slate are dug along the beds, leaving 20–30 cm above the ground surface. Strawberry seedlings are very sensitive to the sun; in hot weather, the leaves quickly turn yellow and deteriorate.

Nadezhda K.

Planting scheme for remontant strawberries

Strawberries are planted in well-lit areas; if necessary, the plant tolerates partial shade without damaging the harvest, provided that this happens periodically during the day. They try not to thicken the plantings, place them in one or two rows, with a continuous carpet or solitaires in decorative flower beds. But it is also convenient to grow this crop in greenhouses and greenhouses, in flower containers at home on the window. Strawberries get along well with currants and gooseberries, onions and garlic, carrots, radishes, green peas, and low-growing annual flowers.

Remontant varieties bloom profusely for a long time, decorating any corner of the garden.

In single-row beds 60–70 cm wide, bushes are placed at intervals of 40–50 cm. Such plantings are easy to treat for weeds; the strawberries are not thickened, so they ripen faster and rot less.

Remontant strawberries are placed on the site in a single-row manner.

But more often, remontant strawberries are planted using a two-line bush method. Form two beds at a distance of 60–80 cm from each other. Strawberries are planted in a row, retreating 30–40 cm from each next bush.

The two-line method of planting strawberries simplifies weeding and watering, avoids weathering and drying out the soil

Often, in the first year of planting, remontant strawberries, capable of growing mustaches, are planted in one row. During the growing season, all the tendrils that have been thrown out by the mother bushes are directed parallel to the bed, placing the young shoots in pre-prepared holes with a nutrient substrate. This method allows you to form a second row of strawberries.

Video: planting schemes for remontant strawberries

To mulch strawberry beds between the rows in the summer, I use ordinary cardboard food boxes (disassembled), which are recycled by grocery stores - carefully, environmentally friendly and economical. This mulch is just enough for the summer. Over the winter, paper rots and decomposes.

Photo gallery: ways to place strawberries in the garden

Solitaire planting option - strawberries in a wooden box Strawberries in a round flowerbed grow no worse than in a garden bed Strawberries can weave the entire area - carpet planting method Remontant strawberries bear fruit even in a pot

Strawberry propagation

Due to the heavy load, bushes of remontant varieties age very quickly; the main harvest is obtained in the first year of fruiting, less abundant in the second year. It is necessary to take care of planting material for remontants in advance. It is recommended to update the beds annually by planting young shoots or divisions (a bush with a developed root system divided into several parts) onto the plot.

Dividing the bush

By dividing the bush, mainly small-fruited strawberries propagated.

1. The plant is dug up and divided into several bushes with roots and central buds.
2. Place it in a hole watered with water.
3. Sprinkle the roots by lightly tamping the surface of the soil with your hands.
4. Mulch with hay or oilcloth.

Reproduction by mustache

Propagating garden remontant strawberries with a mustache usually does not cause difficulties. Plants are planted in the same way as young seedlings, maintaining the distance between bushes and rows.

Video: how to get a lot of whiskers from remontant strawberries

Seedlings of cuttings can be obtained by tucking them around the mother bush into the soil or dipping them into cups with prepared fertile substrate. After rooting, well-developed large bushes (first and second order) with 2–3 leaves are selected and transplanted to a permanent place. For propagation by mustaches, separate beds are often set aside, with wider row spacing - up to a meter; the distance between individual mother bushes is left at 50–60 cm, making room for the mustaches.

Video: propagation of strawberries with a mustache

The peculiarity of remontant strawberries with mustaches is that in the first year of the growing season a large number of offspring appear, therefore the main period of reproduction by mustaches is the first year of the plant’s life. During the ripening of the berries, it is recommended to tear off the mustache; the more mustaches on the plant, the less abundant the harvest and the smaller the berries.

Caring for remontant strawberries after planting

During the growing season, remontants produce several times more yield than ordinary traditional strawberry varieties, so they require fertile soil and regular fertilizing with organic matter. The surface of the beds is mulched to maintain soil moisture and protect the berries from rot during fruiting. Straw, hay, sawdust, pine needles, as well as oilcloth and lutrasil are used as mulch.

Natural materials are considered budget-friendly and do not require extra financial costs

Strawberries are regularly loosened, young shoots (whiskers) must be removed if they are not required to be rooted for propagation.

Video: caring for remontant strawberries

Watering

Strawberries are watered regularly, especially in hot, sunny weather. The irrigation process is carried out in the evening or in the morning, until the air is heated above +25 °C. For irrigation, use settled water at a temperature of at least 15–20 °C. Plants are watered at the root during the period of mass flowering and during the ripening of fruits; before and after flowering, the sprinkling method is used. The best option is drip irrigation of berry plantings.

The ideal option for irrigating strawberry beds is drip irrigation

Top dressing

There are many options for fertilizing strawberries:

• nitroammophoska (potassium + phosphorus + nitrogen), superphosphate, potassium sulfate, urea;
• organic matter in the form of chicken droppings (solution 1:20), cow manure (solution 1:10);
• iodine, boric acid and manganese;
• biological products (for example, Kemira);
• homemade fertilizer (herbal infusion, baker's yeast, wood ash).

Strawberries are fed twice before flowering and 1–2 times in the intervals between subsequent formation of peduncles.

• Organic matter is added during the flowering period and during the formation of ovaries - early to mid-May.
• In early spring, nitrogen fertilizers (urea) are applied, at the end of July - at the beginning of August, when there is a break between fruitings, mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium are applied, this will accelerate the formation of next year's flower buds.

Before applying fertilizer, the bushes are loosened to a depth of 7–10 cm, then fed “at the root” and watered abundantly

Video: homemade strawberry fertilizer

How to feed remontant strawberries in a pot

When growing strawberries in pots, you need to carefully monitor soil moisture and regularly fertilize. In containers, the soil quickly dries out and becomes less fertile, this can be judged by the yellowness of the lower leaves, crushing of the berries and slow growth of the plant.

• When growing in a pot, Kemira, Kemira Lux and other complex chlorine-free preparations are used as mineral fertilizers (according to the instructions).
• Conventional organic matter at the rate of 1 kg of fresh cow manure per 5-liter bottle gives good results. The mixture is infused for 24 hours and watered at the root of the plant - 150–200 g per bush.
• You can brew nettle or a mixture of herbs - dandelion, wormwood, tansy - 200 g of fresh raw materials per 3 liters of water. The broth is allowed to brew for 6–8 hours and poured over the strawberries. Such root feeding not only enriches the soil, but also disinfects it.

Preparing for winter

Closer to winter - from mid-September until early October, depending on the variety and region - the plants are prepared for wintering. At this time, reduce watering and carry out sanitary pruning of dry and spoiled leaves. They cut out the tendrils that appear before the first frost and draw nutrients from the plant. In the northern regions, strawberries are covered with straw (layer 5–10 cm) to protect them from freezing.

Strawberries are insulated for the winter with a layer of straw

Preventive treatment against diseases and pests

Spring treatment of strawberry plantings with urea and spraying with Topaz (early to mid-March before the start of active growth) helps combat gray mold.

To combat pests, the beds are spilled with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (10 ml per 10-liter bucket of water). They also make a solution from two glasses of ash poured with boiling water, add 2 g of boric acid, 2 g of potassium permanganate and 1 tablespoon of iodine. The mixture is generously sprayed onto the bushes in dry, windless weather.

Evgenia Yurievna

http://forum.vinograd.info/archive/index.php?t-2889.html

To get rid of slugs that spoil the crop and damage the leaves, planks or pieces of roofing felt measuring 30 by 50 cm are laid out along the beds. In hot weather, pests gather in the damp soil that remains under them; it is enough to collect the slugs and destroy them.

If you don't stop the slug attack during the attack, you can lose most of your harvest.

In preparation for wintering, the strawberry beds are loosened and the soil is treated with Karbofos solution (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of warm water, pre-infused for 3-4 hours).

Varieties of remontant strawberries with descriptions and characteristics

There are several varieties of remontant strawberries with and without runners, which can be grown in open ground, in a hanging form and in a greenhouse.

Table: the most famous self-pollinating varieties of remontant strawberries with descriptions and characteristics

Photo gallery of famous self-pollinating varieties of remontant strawberries

The unpretentious Ruyana takes root and bears fruit equally well on loose sandy soils and on heavy chernozem soils. The aromatic berries of the Rügen variety ripen in early June. The beardless variety Baron Solemacher was one of the first to conquer domestic garden plots due to its unpretentiousness and productivity
From one Holiday strawberry bush you can harvest up to 7 kg of berries

Beardless remontant strawberry varieties with description and characteristics

Such strawberries do not have the additional load that bushes receive that produce abundant tendrils during fruiting.

• Bearded remontants easily reproduce by dividing the bush and seeds.
• Resistant to low temperatures.
• They have a longer ripening period.

Table: the best remontant varieties of strawberries without mustache

Photo gallery: the best remontant varieties of strawberries without mustache

Snow White with subtle pineapple notes due to the absence of red pigment is suitable for allergy sufferers Vima Rina's berries are similar to garden strawberries with traditional fruiting Strawberry The yellow miracle is not afraid of frost, so it has taken root in garden plots in the Urals and Siberia Lyubasha's drought-resistant strawberries have all the same berries, and the seeds are the same When fully ripened they turn red. The Coquette Strawberry is similar to meadow strawberries in both taste and shape. Fragrant jam is made from small-fruited Ali Baba strawberries.

Varieties of remontant strawberries with description and characteristics

The advantages of hanging varieties are that they are not only decorative, but also allow you to enjoy healthy berries all summer long.

The large-fruited Garland strawberry bears fruit from the end of June until almost the beginning of September, and reproduces with tendrils. Delicate pink berries with sourness weigh up to 30 g and have a cone shape. Since ampelous hybrids most often grow in flowerpots and pots, there must be good drainage at the bottom of the planting container, and the surface must be constantly loosened - the variety does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil.

Remontant strawberry Garland does not tolerate waterlogging and is resistant to gray rot

Strawberry Temptation with red elongated berries (weight up to 35 g) looks decorative and decorates the beds thanks to its tall shoots with numerous flowers. A lush bush is tied to a trellis or allowed to hang freely, while the pot with strawberries is hung at a distance of 1.5–2 meters from the ground in a sunny place, protected from drafts. Poorly resistant to frost.

Strawberry Temptation does not tolerate low temperatures; it is grown in the southern regions and in the south of the Black Earth Region

Remontant varieties of strawberries for greenhouses with descriptions and characteristics

For growing indoors, experts recommend the well-known remontant variety Elizaveta 2 with long continuous fruiting, small-fruited Alexandria, and a hybrid of the Czech selection Selva. These strawberry varieties are cultivated for year-round harvest in greenhouses.

Table: remontant strawberry varieties for greenhouses

Photo gallery: remontant strawberry varieties for greenhouses

Strawberries Elizaveta 2 bear fruit from May to the end of September. The Alexandria variety has small berries, but they are aromatic and sweet. Selva strawberries are highly immune to diseases and are also not attractive to pests. Fragrant Basket strawberries are enjoyed already in early June

Other varieties of remontant strawberries

There are more than 30 well-known varieties of remontant strawberries, which have positive reviews from experienced gardeners. Productive and weather-resistant European and domestic hybrids, little known and under variety testing, are grown by both ordinary summer residents and farmers on an industrial scale.

Table: other modern varieties of remontant strawberries

Photo gallery: other varieties of remontant strawberries

Monterey strawberries bloom and bear fruit 3-4 times per season Elsinore strawberries are a large-fruited remontant variety with fragrant berries Letitia strawberries produce a bountiful harvest in a continental climate San Andreas strawberries bear fruit in waves with an interval of 5 weeks before the first frost Moscow delicacy strawberries can be easily identified by blunt-conical, flattened berries with deeply planted seeds

Remontant strawberry varieties suitable for growing in regions

Most of the well-known remontant varieties of strawberries are grown everywhere due to their frost resistance and unpretentiousness. When choosing a variety, it is important to focus on the growing conditions in the climatic zone. Considering that there are small-fruited and large-fruited varieties, sweet and sour, the taste preferences of the gardener when choosing strawberries play an important role.

Video: the best varieties for growing in Russian regions

Varieties of remontant strawberries for growing in the Moscow region

For the Moscow region, varieties that tolerate waterlogging and are resistant to return frosts are suitable. Alexandria and Rügen, amazing-tasting strawberries Yellow miracle, a Moscow delicacy that has become a favorite in recent years, Ruyana, with delicate strawberry notes Lyubasha - the most unpretentious and suitable for growing in a variable climate. The Garland variety is planted as an hanging plant.

Varieties of remontant strawberries for cultivation in central Russia

The most famous remontant varieties - early ripening Baron Solemacher, fragrant Ruyana, large-fruited Selva, Rügen - are frequent guests in garden plots in Central Russia, the Volga region, and the Black Earth Region. Elsenore and Holiday have adapted to temperate climate conditions. Lyubava and Zolotinka bloom profusely and bear fruit for up to 2 years. The most common varieties are Ali Baba and Alexandria; gardeners prefer them as the most unpretentious remontants.

Varieties of remontant strawberries for cultivation in Siberia and the Urals

Basically, varieties are selected for cultivation that can easily tolerate frost and bear fruit continuously throughout the season:

• Rügen.
• Alexandria.
• Baron Solemacher.
• Ruyana.
• Yellow miracle.
• Yoshkarolinka.
• Yoke.

Even in the Siberian climate, you can find small-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries - they are the most resistant to returning cold. In Siberia, it is necessary to insulate strawberries for the winter with a layer of straw mulch. In the first ten days of May, it is recommended to cover early varieties with non-woven materials at night to protect flowering shoots from frost.

Remontant varieties of strawberries for growing in Belarus

In the southern regions of Belarus, the varieties Monterey and Selva are grown; the fruitful Elizaveta 2 and Albion, the fragrant Forest Fairy Tale are found in garden plots here; ampelous hybrids - Temptation and Garland. These are mainly varieties that tolerate drought and hot weather well. In areas located to the north, the Rügen strawberry, the recently popular Yoshkoralinka, the Moscow Delicacy, Baron Solemacher, the unpretentious Wima Rina strawberry, and the Charlotte variety, a novelty of the last decade, are cultivated. Heat-loving varieties (for example, Monterey) require additional shelter for the winter.

Video: the best variety of remontant strawberries in Belarus

Experienced gardeners know the difference between remontant strawberries and simple ones. Owners of country houses and private houses with land plots often plant strawberries. This berry requires careful care. Of no small importance is the choice of a variety suitable for a given climatic zone. What are the features of growing berries and caring for remontant strawberries?

Remontant strawberries differ from simple varieties in that they can bear fruit several times during the season. During the summer you can harvest up to 3 or more harvests. Moreover, the berries can be picked even in the fall. This variety of strawberry has other features. These include the small size of the bush. Despite this, in terms of taste characteristics, this strawberry is not inferior to simple varieties.

Remontant strawberry varieties are divided into several types. They are large-fruited and small-fruited. Some varieties of remontant strawberries are not able to reproduce by layering. Reproduction is carried out only by seeds. Remontant large-fruited strawberries are the most beloved among gardeners. Growing remontant strawberries requires certain efforts from the owners of the garden or summer cottage, because the yield depends on the regularity of watering, proper planting, the quality of the soil, the presence of pests and weeds on the land.

The best varieties of strawberries

• "Queen Elizabeth";
• "Inexhaustible";
• "San Andreas";
• "Monterey";
• "Ostara";
• "Diamond";
• "Russian size";
• "Laurent";
• "Diva";
• "Snow White";
• "Capri";
• "Aromas";
• "Linosa".

It is best to entrust the choice of remontant strawberry variety to a specialist. The following characteristics are taken into account:

• frost resistance;
• transportability;
• plant requirements for watering.

Varieties of remontant strawberries with long and neutral daylight hours are available for sale. This division is based on the ability to bear fruit depending on the length of daylight hours. Growing remontant strawberries in day-neutral conditions is much easier. Remontant strawberries “Queen Elizabeth” are in great demand. It has the following features:

• produces large fruits weighing up to 40 grams;
• resistant to cold;
• is highly resistant to various pests;
• blooms continuously from May to October.

This is a day neutral variety. The bushes are tall and the fruits have a conical shape. The berries are sweet and sour and large. This variety is excellent for freezing and transportation. Over the summer, you can collect 2-3 buckets of berries from 1 bush with regular watering and fertilization.

Strawberries of the Primadonna variety are good. This is a hybrid variety that is distinguished by tall flower stems and sweet, bright red berries. These strawberries are well adapted to Russian frosts.

New varieties of remontant strawberries include “San Andreas”. During the season, this variety bears fruit up to 4 times. The weight of the berries is 20-30 grams. The fruits are shiny, large, fleshy and juicy. The berries are suitable for transportation. The strawberry variety "Capri" is grown in European countries and Russia.. The first harvest can be harvested at the end of June, and the last at the end of October. Fruits continuously.

Preparing for planting on the site

Planting of remontant strawberries is carried out in a prepared area. It must be sufficiently illuminated, otherwise the plants will not receive the required amount of light and will bear fruit poorly. Remontant strawberries grow better in those beds where vegetables (potatoes, tomatoes, garlic) previously grew. Before you grow strawberries, you need to purchase them. It is preferable to buy mustaches or seeds from familiar gardeners or in specialized stores. The mustache must be healthy.

Immediately before planting plants in the ground, you need to grow seedlings in small pots. The containers should have a diameter of 10-15 cm. There is no need to fill the containers with earth to the brim. You need to leave 3-4 cm on top. When growing seedlings from seeds, you need to scatter them on the ground, sprinkling them with a little soil. After this, you need to irrigate the ground using a spray bottle.

For faster and better seed germination, the containers must be covered with plastic wrap. After 2-3 weeks, the seeds will produce the first shoots. All gardeners know that not all seeds will sprout. This must be taken into account when planting. Seedlings are planted in May, and sometimes in autumn. Before planting plants in the ground, the strongest plants are selected. They should have 2-3 large leaves.

Growing remontant strawberries (video)

Technology of planting plants in the ground

To plant remontant strawberries in a garden bed, you need to prepare a plot of land. The highest yields are observed in areas where there is black soil, loamy or sandy soil. Of no small importance is the level of groundwater. It should be more than 60 cm. The level of soil freezing in winter is also taken into account.

The soil in the garden bed should not contain large numbers of wireworm and Colorado potato beetle larvae. After the seeds have sprung and seedlings have formed, they can be planted. To destroy the larvae before planting strawberries, it is advisable to plant lupine or treat the area with ammonia water. Before planting, the soil must be dug and loosened. It is better not to plant remontant strawberries next to potatoes.

When planting planting material, it is necessary to make holes in which the plants will be placed along with a lump of earth. For convenience, the seedlings are watered. During planting, plants should not be exposed to the sun, otherwise they will wither. The roots of the seedlings should be up to 10 cm in size. If necessary, you can trim them. For better rooting in the ground, it is advisable to treat the roots with the preparation “Kornevin” or dip the plants in a clay mash.

Strawberries grown from seeds and purchased seedlings are planted in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of at least 70 cm from each other. The soil should be moist, but not soggy. There should be no weeds in the ground. If there are a large number of plants, the distance between the beds is at least 80-90 cm. Trees and large shrubs should not grow nearby. It is recommended to plant remontant strawberries from seeds in cool weather so that the plants take root better.

The film method of planting strawberries is widely used. This procedure is called mulching. The essence of the method is that strawberries are planted under a black film. This provides optimal conditions for plant growth and helps retain water under the film. Before growing strawberries, you need to lay a black film with a thickness of 0.05 mm on the bed and sprinkle it. Small holes are made in the film where the plants will be planted.

Varieties and varieties of strawberries (video)

Rules for caring for strawberries

Not everyone knows how to care for remontant strawberries. Care includes watering plants, loosening the soil, fertilizing, removing tendrils, pest control, and weeding the beds. Caring for strawberries necessarily includes watering. Remontant varieties require constant soil moisture. This is especially necessary for regions with hot climates.

Soil moisture is determined manually. Watering can be done using a watering can, hose, sprinklers or drip method. If you have a large number of plants, a drip or hose irrigation system is best. The drip method is great for growing berries in containers or in bags.

Additionally, strawberry bushes can be watered with herbal infusion. The most commonly used mixture is nettle, yarrow and wormwood. After watering or rain, the soil becomes hard, so it needs to be loosened. When mulching, practically no loosening is required. Caring for remontant strawberries during fruiting includes fertilizing.

It is imperative to trim the mustache, as a large number of them negatively affects the yield.

Propagation of remontant strawberries is carried out by mustaches. Remontant strawberries need to be renewed at least once every 2 years. In this case, old plants are removed. Less commonly, seeds are used for propagation. With a small number of whiskers, you can divide the bush.

It is recommended to cut off all flower stalks after the first fruiting of large bushes. Strawberries must be protected from pests. These can be insects, worms, birds, mites, fungi. When strawberry mites are detected, Karbofos is used. This product should be used after harvesting. Reproduction of remontant strawberries is carried out using layering.

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Remontant strawberries are a special berry crop. Her genes contain the ability to bear fruit several times in one season .

There are several varieties of remontant strawberries, and each has its own distinctive characteristics.

The development phases of strawberry plants directly depend on lighting.

When growing remontant strawberries, the characteristics of the variety are taken into account, which you need to become familiar with before purchasing seedlings.

Regular garden strawberries, which are not remontant, are classified as plants short daylight hours. This means that it produces flower buds only when the daylight hours are decreasing (in late summer and autumn).

And it blooms and bears fruit in the first half of the season. Remontant strawberries behave differently.

Not all gardeners know that there are two groups of remontant strawberries:

• long daylight hours;
• neutral day.

Each of these types has its own characteristics.

Remontant strawberries of long daylight hours on our site!

Remontant strawberry of neutral day

Daylight neutral strawberries are better suited for southern latitudes and for growing in greenhouses or at home.

These plants are capable of laying flower buds and growing berries constantly, wave after wave, with very short rest breaks. The factor of length of day and night is not decisive.

Such large-fruited strawberries feel comfortable only in warm regions.

Features of care

The maximum yield of remontant strawberries NSD is harvested in the first two years.

This berry crop is intensive - it has increased requirements for the level of agricultural technology, temperature conditions, and nutrition.

• Prolonged harvesting greatly depletes the plants. Both outdoor plantations and greenhouse beds must be regularly watered and fertilized. – both organic and mineral. Micronutrient supplements are required. It is advisable to use growth and immunity stimulants.
• Intensively fruiting remontant bushes age much faster than ordinary strawberries. Day-neutral plants degenerate early, often lasting only one season . Such a plantation requires annual renewal - planting new bushes.
• If strawberries are grown for the sake of harvest, that’s it, otherwise the berry grower will spend additional energy, becoming even more depleted. The buds of plants selected for propagation are plucked out, preventing flowering.
• Outdoor plantations of large-fruited remontant strawberries on a neutral day are especially needed. It is necessary to take care of shelter and good snow accumulation .

This variety of strawberry is represented mainly by varieties of foreign selection. Brighton, Albion and many others are popular. In recent years, many new products have appeared, but not all of them are suitable for the Russian climate.

Remontant strawberry of long daylight hours

DSD strawberries bear fruit several times during the season.

Long-day plants produce two or three waves of harvest. Buds appear very quickly in spring. The first wave coincides with the fruiting of traditional early varieties. After a short break, the second stage of berry formation occurs - usually in August (in the southern regions in July). The third time the ovaries grow in the fall, if the weather is quite warm.

Subtleties of agricultural technology

• Repairing strawberries need in increased soil fertility, regular watering .
• If you want to get a bountiful harvest in August-September, spring buds need to be removed , preventing the first wave from bearing fruit. The principle is the same as when working with remontant raspberries.
• Remontant strawberries with long daylight hours can live longer than day-neutral ones . However, after two or three seasons of work, it also becomes depleted. Obsolete bushes weaken and winter poorly; the berries become smaller. Plants that have exhausted their resources are replaced with new ones.
• The winter hardiness of remontant long-day strawberries is slightly lower than that of non-remontant ones. . But it overwinters more successfully than the day-neutral one.

Well-known strawberry varieties of this group are Selva, Crimean remontantnaya, and Queen Elizabeth 2.

Ability to form a mustache

Whiskered strawberries are easier to propagate.

Remontant strawberries can be moustached, small moustached and beardless. This trait depends on the variety.

• The mustachioed variety is especially convenient for reproduction. But the active growth of mustaches - together with the summer and autumn filling of berries - greatly depletes the bushes and thickens the plantation. The mustache must be constantly cut off at the very beginning of its formation. This takes a lot of effort and time.
• Small mustache varieties produce a small number of mustaches - and, as a rule, only in the first year of the bush’s life. Mass propagation of such plants is problematic. Sometimes bushes are planted, divided into horns. Some branded varieties of this group are grown from store-bought seeds. Seed material has to be re-acquired and sown every 2-3 years.
• Beardless remontant strawberries are propagated by dividing the bush or by seeds. Small-fruited varieties can be grown from your own seeds. This method is not very suitable for large varieties. Seed and planting material must be regularly repurchased from reliable manufacturers. The most productive plants are obtained in special laboratories using microcloning. Their cost is high, but it pays off with a bountiful harvest.

The small-mustachioed and beardless remontant berry directs all its efforts to the formation of berries. The gardener does not need to spend time removing the whiskers. But difficulties arise with reproduction. Each owner decides for himself which plants are more convenient for him to deal with.

Complex of works on remontant strawberries

Experienced gardeners know that remontant berries are more demanding on growing conditions. To get a good harvest of such strawberries, they advise follow all rules of agricultural technology.

Selection of seedlings, planting dates

The method of propagation of remontant strawberries depends on its varietal characteristics. , purchase ready-made seedlings in stores and nurseries, root the mustache or divide the bushes.

Strawberry seeds are planted for seedlings in February–March.

Seeds

Seeds they buy only from the most reliable manufacturers so that time and effort are not wasted.

They are sown at home for seedlings at the end of winter or early spring. Strong young seedlings are transferred to the ground in May-June. As a rule, such bushes produce a harvest already in the same season.

Seedlings

Seedlings You can buy it at a garden store or market, or get it from neighbors or friends. The origin of plants may vary.

Strawberry seedlings are planted in a permanent place in mid-May.

Seedlings from private individuals most often take the form of tendrils or divided bushes. They are purchased and planted in beds in early spring or in the second half of summer. In warm regions, autumn planting is also acceptable.

Stores and nurseries sell rooted runners, grown seedlings, as well as test-tube seedlings (obtained by microcloning). Seedlings of remontant strawberries with a closed root system can be planted in the ground almost throughout the entire season - from spring to early autumn.

1. The surface of the ground on a remontant strawberry plantation must be covered with mulching materials - for example, straw or hay.
2. It is convenient to plant remontant strawberries on black agrofibre. This mulch protects against weeds, preserves moisture and heat, and protects the berries from dirt and damage.

Greenhouse effect

The use of simple shelters helps to extend the season for obtaining vitamin berries.

Agrofibre or film draped over small frames (arcs) allows you to get an earlier harvest in the spring. At flowering time, the ridges are opened for pollination. The cover is re-stretched in the fall so that late ovaries ripen better.

Plantation care

The drip system is the best option for watering strawberries.

Remontant strawberries are fed more often and more abundantly than regular ones. Fertilizer irrigation is needed 2 times a month. A full range of nutrition is important throughout the season. The need for nitrogen and potassium is especially great; a moderate amount of phosphorus is also required. Microelements are required.

It is advisable to supply nitrogen in the form of organic matter.

• Apply water solution manure (1:10), bird droppings (1:20), herbal infusion (1:5). 1 liter of this liquid is poured under each bush.
• Wood ash infusion (a half-liter jar for 10 liters of water) is recommended to be applied separately - 500 ml per bush.
• Ash and natural organics can be replaced with store-bought fertilizers - complex mineral or organomineral, preferably special “for strawberries”.

In the second half of the season, phosphorus fertilizers should be added to the fertilizing (according to the instructions).

In August, phosphorus fertilizers are applied to the strawberries.

Remontant strawberries are in dire need of additional mineral elements, especially molybdenum, boron, magnesium, and zinc. A complex of microelements is applied along with other fertilizers or given as foliar feeding, spraying the bushes on buds and flowers several times a season. Treatment with immune stimulants has a positive effect on yield – for example, Zircon(according to instructions).

Watering

The soil under the remontant strawberry bushes should be constantly moist to the entire depth of the roots - 25–30 cm.

In dry weather, when watering, use up to half a bucket of water for each plant. Sprinkling method is not recommended (berries rot), it is best to use a drip irrigation system.

Protection from diseases and pests

Remontant varieties may suffer from gray rot.

Plantings of remontant strawberries are not used for too long, only 1–3 years, and infections do not have time to accumulate. It is important to initially use healthy seedlings and soil. Mulch helps maintain cleanliness.

The berry bears fruit almost without interruption, so using chemicals is harmful. In critical cases, spraying against weevils on spring buds is allowed. In autumn (after harvest) or early spring you can.

To fight With spraying with biological preparations is used ( Fitosporin, Alirin ) or folk remedies: aqueous iodine solution (1 drop per 1 liter of water) or potassium permanganate (pink).

Trimming

In ordinary strawberries, the foliage is removed after fruiting. This is not done on remontant plantations. Only the lower darkened leaves are periodically cut out - especially in autumn and spring after the snow melts. Unnecessary mustaches require regular trimming.

Preparing for winter

In the fall, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is stopped and increased doses of phosphorus and potassium are given.

For the winter, strawberries are covered with straw or hay.

Varieties with poor winter hardiness are not allowed to bear fruit in the autumn months; the flower stalks are removed. When the daytime temperature drops below zero, the remontant strawberry plantation is covered before wintering with spruce branches, pine needles, dry leaves, and agrofibre. The protection should not be too tight or damp - this risks overheating.

Moderate snow layer– the best insulation for remontant strawberries in the northern regions.

Video about the six best remontant strawberry varieties

The sweet juicy strawberry has been known to mankind since ancient times. Archaeologists still find traces of it in fossilized deposits that are more than 60 million years old. But they began to grow the berry as a garden crop only in the 15th century, constantly improving the appearance and technical characteristics of the fruit.

Care and planting of remontant strawberries

Today, there are a huge number of different varieties of garden strawberries, among which remontant species occupy a special place. They gained their popularity due to their high yield - fruiting lasts throughout the summer until the first frost, that is, harvesting can be done 2-3 times per season.

How to choose seedlings

When purchasing seedlings, first of all, pay attention to its appearance. Planting material must meet the following characteristics:

• Developed root system: plant rhizomes should not be less than 6 cm;
• well-formed bushes have at least 3-4 true leaves without any defects (foreign inclusions, etc.);
• the central bud (heart of the bush) should be large and pink.

Choosing a landing site

The area for planting berries should have a flat or slightly inclined surface to the southwest. Do not plant strawberries in lowlands, because the air there is cooler than at higher elevations, and this significantly reduces the yield of berries. It is also not recommended to grow plants on a southern slope - early melting of snow can lead to the death of revived bushes under the influence of spring frosts. The planting area must be protected from the wind.

Lighting is an important factor for successful growth and development of berry bushes. Strawberries prefer well-lit areas, only in this case you will get a high yield of sweet and aromatic fruits. Bushes growing in the shade are characterized by low yields and sour, watery fruits.

For planting, choose light loamy soil. The area is first cleared of weeds and stones, mulching the ground at the same time. Remontant species grow well on mulch made from pine needles, green manure, hay, straw, and sawdust. Light soil retains moisture better, it warms up faster, which contributes to an earlier harvest.

Planting remontant strawberries

Planting remontant strawberries and it is necessary to care for it according to certain rules that every gardener who decides to start growing this crop should know. When planting seedlings, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

The timing of planting remontant strawberries is determined depending on the climatic conditions of the growing region. Active growth of rhizomes and foliage of the plant is observed twice a year: the first in spring, the second in summer. Therefore, seedlings are also planted in the ground twice a season. In spring, young bushes are planted after the top layer of soil has warmed up sufficiently (up to +12 degrees). Summer plants can be planted in the second half of July (from approximately the 25th) until mid-August.

But still, experienced gardeners recommend planting remontant varieties of strawberries in the spring. In this case, the bushes have time to adapt and take root well in the new area. When planting strawberries in mid-May, the first harvest can be obtained already in the second half of July, and from this moment the strawberries will delight you with delicious berries until the end of September.

Each gardener himself determines the planting scheme for remontant strawberries based on the characteristics of his site. The following types of landing exist:

• Carpet method. In this way, beardless Victoria varieties are usually planted. The distance between plants is: for large-fruited species - about 40 cm, for small-fruited species - 25 cm.
• Planting plants in rows. Strawberry bushes are planted in a continuous row according to a 30*70 cm pattern. This planting method is suitable for varieties that throw out tendrils and grow in width.

Features of care

Remontant strawberry varieties differ from others in the continuity of the fruiting process: as soon as the first berries ripen, new ovaries immediately form. Of course, it’s nice to enjoy delicious juicy strawberries throughout the summer season. However, to get a really good harvest, it is necessary to provide certain care for the plants.

Since remontant varieties They bear fruit several times during the summer; they require more fertilizing and watering.

Remontant strawberries need more frequent watering, especially in hot weather, when the air warms up to a temperature of +30 degrees and above. Make sure that during this period the soil is saturated with moisture by at least 3-5 cm. In order for the strawberry yield to be really high, it is necessary to ensure timely weeding, as well as loosening the soil. The procedure is carried out with great care, trying to preserve the integrity of the root system and tendrils of the plant. If you mulched the soil already during planting, in the future you can loosen it only occasionally.

Fertilizing strawberry bushes is carried out after watering. For this purpose, use a herbal infusion (wormwood and nettle), which is kept for a week in the open sun. This mixture contains the nutrients necessary for the growth and development of bushes. Before use, the solution should be filtered through a piece of cloth to prevent weed seeds from getting into the strawberry plantings. In addition, an infusion of bird droppings or mullein is used for feeding.

Growing strawberries from seeds at home

This method of growing strawberries is quite labor-intensive, however, despite this, it is very popular among gardeners because it allows you to grow fruits that having the desired taste.

Although growing strawberry bushes from seeds is much more difficult than from seedlings, many gardeners still prefer this method, since it allows them to obtain fruits with the desired taste. In order to harvest this season, it is necessary to sow the seeds on time.

When and how to sow

Optimal planting dates seeds are February-March. Plants planted during this period have time to fully develop before the onset of summer heat. In addition, bushes planted in early May give a full harvest at the end of the summer season. Remontant strawberry seeds can be planted directly in open ground. Over the summer, the seedlings will strengthen well, which will allow them to easily survive the winter.

The quality and composition of the soil are also important. To plant strawberries, you can purchase a ready-made substrate, treated with special agents against various diseases, pathogenic microorganisms and weeds.

You can prepare fertile soil yourself. To do this, you need to take peat (1 part), garden soil (2 parts) and sand (1 part). Add a little wood ash and rotted manure to the resulting mixture. Disinfect the substrate with a solution of Fitop-Flora-C or Ftosporin-M. Many people practice scalding with boiling water, but this results in an absolutely sterile environment, not entirely suitable for growing seedlings, since in this case the seedlings will have weak immunity.

Peat tablets, which contain all the microelements necessary for the growth of strawberry seedlings, are also quite popular. To plant seeds, you can use plastic cups, food containers or peat-humus pots, in which the seedlings are then planted in a permanent place without using the transshipment method.

The following methods of growing strawberries from seeds at home are practiced among gardeners:

Plantings must be ventilated and watered daily. Avoid mold or mildew. Water the young bushes with warm boiled water, using a teaspoon, since a strong stream from a watering can can uproot fledgling sprouts. The first shoots will appear in about 2-3 weeks.

To obtain strong, healthy seedlings, it is necessary to provide the seedlings with all the necessary conditions for normal growth and development. Strawberry seedlings need good lighting, so they should be additionally illuminated with warm or cold spectrum LEDs or phytolamps.

Watering should be regular, but it is necessary to avoid waterlogging of the soil, as well as its drying out. Picking of seedlings is carried out after the formation of two true leaves. The sprouts are carefully transplanted into separate containers, trying to maintain the integrity of the central root. Pinching the rhizome will cause overgrowth superficial roots, which will negatively affect the drought resistance of the bushes when transplanted to a permanent place.

This variety of sweet berry is becoming increasingly popular among gardeners. The plant can be grown as a house flower both in hanging bowls and flowerpots, and on window sills and beds. Climbing strawberries are famous for their incredibly tasty and large fruits. But in order to get a good harvest, it is necessary to provide the crop with appropriate conditions. The main feature of this subspecies is the formation of long mustaches, which require mandatory gartering to a support. Ampelous varieties tolerate a lack of light well, so they are suitable for planting in a greenhouse, on a terrace and balcony.

Planting and care

To plant ampelous strawberries, you need to prepare special soil from manure, compost and peat. A drainage layer (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel), about 10-15 cm high, is poured onto the bottom of the container, and a prepared soil mixture is placed on top, which is immediately watered. After the substrate settles, add it to the required volume. 1 plant is planted per hole, pressing each one with a small lump of earth. Before planting a seedling, it must be placed in a clay mash. This will help the bush to take root and take root faster.

To obtain a year-round harvest, several varieties of ampelous strawberries should be planted simultaneously. This variety of strawberry grows well on a windowsill, which allows you to enjoy the juicy berry even in winter.

To do this, just plant the plants in ordinary flower pots. This method of cultivation requires regular and frequent replanting (every 3-4 years), since over several years the soil fertility decreases, and you risk growing wild strawberries.

At first, planting requires frequent (3 times a day) and abundant watering. Adult plants need to be moistened every three days. They also periodically trim the tendrils, leaving no more than 5 pieces on each plant. In the second year of life, before flowering and fruit formation, strawberry bushes are fed with fertilizers.

Growing remontant strawberries on your windowsill or garden plot is not so difficult. If you follow simple rules and recommendations, you can get an excellent harvest of delicious sweet berries with a minimum of effort.

Strawberries, or garden strawberries, open the long-awaited berry season. Numerous varieties produce fruits of all shapes, sizes, shades of color and taste. For those who want to see these fragrant berries on their table before frost sets in, it will be interesting to learn about growing remontant strawberries.

Peculiarities

Let's start with a definition. Remontability is the ability of some plants to bear fruit repeatedly or repeatedly. Remontant strawberries produce their first harvest in July, the second, the most abundant, in August - early September. Strawberries are very sensitive to daylight hours and are divided into three photoperiodic types:

• Have a short day. Habitual varieties with a single fruiting in early summer. Buds are laid during short days (less than 12 hours) at the end of summer; fruiting can occur as early as an eight-hour day, but is limited by the low temperatures of the winter months and therefore occurs much later, at about 14 hours.
• Have a long day. Varieties of remontant strawberries that lay fruit buds when the day length is 16-17 hours (from the end of May to half of July). They begin to bloom during a 12-hour day; the main harvest is produced at the end of summer.
• Neutral day. The formation of fruit buds and flowering does not depend on day length and continues from early spring until the end of the growing season. This process for “neutrals” is wave-like and occurs every 6 weeks. In the southern regions, these varieties can form 4 strawberry fruiting cycles in open ground. However, in dry times at 25 degrees, the pollen becomes sterile and fruits are not formed.

Therefore, the maximum yield of day-neutral varieties is obtained in closed ground, where all conditions are created for its cultivation.

With such a heavy load, the plants quickly age, therefore, more careful care is required for remontant strawberries and the plantations have to be renewed more often.

Video “Features of care”

From the video you will learn how to properly care for remontant strawberries.

Preparing for landing

To plant remontant strawberries, choose well-lit places with light, fertile soil. The area should be spacious, because the bushes are planted at a fairly large distance from each other in order to be able to root the tendrils that appear. The selected area must be cleared not only of weeds and all organic debris, but also of pests that can destroy an entire plantation of remontant strawberries.

To combat the larva of the May beetle, mustard is planted as green manure or the soil is treated with the Aktara insecticide. Then the earth is dug up onto the bayonet of a shovel and leveled, breaking up the lumps. You can plant strawberries in about three weeks, when the ground settles. Freshly dug soil can expose the neck and roots of the plant after shrinkage or, conversely, cover the growing point.

Remontant strawberries, the cultivation and care of which require care, require well-fertilized soil. If the soil is poor, then organic matter and phosphorus fertilizers are added along with digging. Caring for the future harvest includes the correct selection of varieties. The best varieties, according to experienced gardeners, are Ali Baba, Alexandri, Lesnaya Skazka, Ruyana, Baron Solemacher, Queen Elizabeth, Temptation, Diamant, Evi2, Moscow Delicacy.

Among them there are both small-fruited and varieties with giant berries. If you are interested in any variety, you need to find out how it is propagated. It is better to purchase seedlings of beardless varieties not from the market, but from serious producers, or to grow them yourself from strawberry seeds. Growing from seeds cannot be called an easy way to grow remontant strawberries, but there is no doubt that it is the most inexpensive.

How to grow seedlings from seeds? To do this you will need a box and some garden soil. They begin to sow seeds in January, if additional lighting for seedlings is possible, or in early March. Seeds of remontant strawberries are laid out on a napkin, soaked, covered with polyethylene and placed in a warm place until sprouts appear. Before sowing, you need to prepare the soil by disinfecting it in a preheated oven for 15-20 minutes. Hatched strawberry seeds are planted using a match or toothpick.

Planting methods

How to plant remontant strawberries depends on the ability of the variety to form mustaches. It is better to plant beardless varieties using the two-line method. The distance in the row is from 20 to 40 cm, between the rows - 50 cm. The advantage of the method is the ease of planting and care, as well as picking berries. It is better to grow remontant strawberries, which throw out tendrils, using the nesting method with a distance between plants of at least 50 cm. This method allows you to grow both a good harvest and high-quality home planting material.

The plants are well lit, do not come into contact with each other and, therefore, do not become infected. The disadvantage of this method in large areas of unused land can be corrected by thickening the plantings of remontant strawberries with garlic. Garlic grown in this way will not only bring a rich harvest, but will also protect the plantation from slugs.

Planting of remontant strawberries is done in a hole with dimensions 20x20x20. A slide of a nutrient mixture is poured onto the bottom (for 1 bucket of soil - 2 cups of ash, 1 bucket of compost and 2 liters of vermicompost), a seedling is placed and sprinkled with earth. In this case, the root collar should be at ground level. After this, the bushes are watered.

Remontant strawberries are planted from spring to autumn. Spring plantings will not produce many berries, but autumn plantings will bear fruit several times. You should not delay planting in the fall; the seedlings should take root before frost.

Rules of care

The yield of plantings directly depends on how to care for remontant strawberries. It is necessary to frequently loosen the soil, protect it from pests, regularly water it, apply fertilizer, and remove diseased leaves.

We can say that caring for remontant strawberries is the same as for regular ones. If you grow different varieties, then the first flower stalks on the remontant ones can be cut off, then the subsequent harvest will be more abundant.

Preparing for winter

To protect plants from freezing, it is necessary to take care of preserving the leaves that protect the main organ of the strawberry - the “heart”. To do this, the soil is loosened to a depth of 1.5 cm, trying not to damage the roots, fed with Ammophoska (1 tablespoon per square meter), mulched with humus and picked off flowers and berries. There is no need to touch the leaves.
If the foliage freezes and turns black before the snow appears (this happens at -5 degrees), this will greatly weaken the plants.

Therefore, strawberries are covered with pine needles or leaves, and covered with film on top. When a 10-centimeter layer of snow forms, the film is removed and branches or spruce branches are thrown onto the beds to retain snow.

10-12 centimeters of snow will protect strawberries from frosts down to -18 degrees, and a layer of 20 centimeters will be a talisman even when the cold drops to 30 degrees. Heavy snowfalls will preserve strawberries without any shelter.

Video “Growing from seeds”

From the video you will learn how to grow strawberries from seeds.