Next to a private house or cottage there is always a free plot of land where you can build a small but extremely useful structure - a barn. Its purpose is very diverse, from storing equipment and solid fuel for the stove, to keeping animals. Wood is most often used to build a shed. And this is completely justified: it is affordable, durable and easy to use. You can build the structure yourself, following simple step-by-step instructions.

The first questions that will need to be resolved before starting construction: where and what to build the barn from? The area of ​​plots is often limited, so you need to use the land to the maximum. As an option, you can build a shed against one of the walls of the house or fence. If there is enough space, then you can choose absolutely any place, the main thing is that the building is convenient to use.

You can build a wooden shed from different materials:

The first two types of wood will provide a high-quality, durable and warm construction, but the construction process requires large financial and physical costs. The remaining types are suitable for lightweight structures that will be used as storage space; they will certainly cost less, and even one person can build such a shed.

Advantages of a wooden shed:

• Possibility to build “warm” and “cold” versions of the structure;
• Fast construction time;
• Availability and wide range of materials for construction;
• Ecological purity of wood;
• Possibility of using any decorative finish and lightweight types of foundation.

Don't forget about the appearance of the barn. It should be harmoniously combined with other buildings on the site. Exterior unity can be achieved through modern finishing materials, such as siding or corrugated sheeting.
In order not to make a mistake when calculating the amount of materials, it is necessary to prepare in advance a plan with the exact dimensions of the shed and make markings on a plot of land.

You also need to stock up on fasteners, tools and materials for arranging the foundation and decorative finishing, if required.

Construction of a shed from timber or logs

If the outbuilding must last for many years, then it is best to choose timber or logs as the basis for the walls, because the service life of buildings made from them can reach 70 years. These materials will provide high-quality thermal insulation in case of keeping livestock or poultry indoors. The building is also suitable for storing equipment. To build a large barn, additional labor will be required.

It is better not to use a shed made of timber or logs for storing firewood, since it does not have sufficient ventilation to dry the heating oil.

Foundation preparation

If there is no time to prepare the foundation, you can replace it with pillars dug to a depth of 60-80 cm.

The principle of laying the foundation is similar to that described above.

Strapping and erection of frame

It is more convenient to start construction by arranging a site that will serve as a floor and foundation for the construction of walls. The lower trim should be made of 150x150 mm timber, treated with an antiseptic. The foundation must first be covered with roofing felt to protect the structure from moisture.

The strapping bars can be joined end-to-end and secured with metal corners, or in half a tree. In the second case, the joints must be secured with nails or studs.

The floor joists are attached to the frame with special brackets or corners. To do this, 50-60 mm boards are placed on edge and fixed with self-tapping screws onto the beams in increments of no more than 60 cm. The location of the joists must be aligned along the upper edge of the trim so that when laying the floor the surface is level.

The next stage is installation of the floor. It can be fixed with self-tapping screws or nails. It is important to ensure that there are no gaps, and that the outer contours of the floorboard or OSB coincide with the bottom trim.

Then the racks are mounted at the corners of the base and secured with the top trim. To make your work easier when building a pitched roof, the racks can be immediately adjusted to size, two of them should be 50-80 cm higher. For a gable roof, all racks must be made the same. Next, additional supports are installed along the perimeter of the walls every 50 cm and openings are formed for windows and doors.

Roof construction

It is advisable to erect a shed roof for a barn - it is quick and economical. Moreover, the attic in such small buildings is rarely used.

If the top frame is at an angle, then the rafters from the boards can be laid directly on it, turning them on the edge. The distance between them should be no more than 50 cm so that the roof can withstand a large snow load.

Plank sheathing is laid on the rafter system. The pitch depends on the roofing material. Under roofing felt, the sheathing must be continuous; under ondulin, boards can be laid at a distance of no more than 40 cm; under corrugated sheeting, a step of 60 cm is acceptable.

Wall cladding and installation of doors and windows

You can cover the walls with OSB or boards (edged and unedged). The slabs and edged boards are laid end-to-end and secured with self-tapping screws or nails. Unedged lumber is mounted with an overlap so that there are no gaps between the boards.

It is better to use ready-made windows, since their manufacture requires the skills of a carpenter. The door can also be custom made from wood, metal or plastic, or cut from OSB board and reinforced with bars.

All stages of the construction of a frame shed can be clearly studied in the presented video.

Finishing

OSB or board does not always look attractive. In addition, if the boards are waterproof, then the lumber needs protection from moisture, sunlight and insects. Therefore, decorative cladding of a frame barn is an almost mandatory condition for durability and aesthetic appearance.

You can also arrange a cellar under the barn, which you can make yourself.

The building can be sheathed with different types of materials. When choosing them, you should focus on the exterior of adjacent buildings. For example, siding can perfectly imitate brick, logs and other materials; if corrugated sheets are used in the decoration of the house, then the barn should be sheathed with the same, choosing the appropriate shade.

House or country outbuildings are most often built from wood and its derivatives. These materials provide variability in construction and the quality of the finished shed. If all the work is done correctly, the building will last a very long time, retain its attractive appearance and will not lose its functionality. Therefore, it is so important to follow all stages of construction from laying the foundation to decorative finishing.

No matter how much space there is in a country house, a personal plot cannot do without such a necessary outbuilding as a barn.

If you don’t yet have experience in self-building, but the owner knows how to use tools, he can easily build a shed at his dacha with his own hands, following the instructions.

If the barn will be located next to the house, and it is important that it looks aesthetically pleasing, it is better to use the same materials from which the house is built. To reduce the cost of construction, you can decorate the barn with siding - it can be different, and imitates any materials - wood, brick, stone of different textures.

How to make a shed quickly and inexpensively

Following step-by-step instructions on how to make a shed yourself, you can build it in the shortest possible time, while spending very little money.

One of the simplest, fastest and cheapest options is a frame shed. The frame itself can be made of wood or metal, the outside is sheathed with suitable material, a roof is installed - and the comfortable outbuilding is ready for use.

If the barn is made of wood, then the frame can be made of timber. But it is more convenient, reliable and durable to make a frame from profiled pipes with a rectangular or square cross-section - a profile with a round cross-section is more difficult to join and weld.

There are also ready-made metal frames on sale, which are assembled using self-tapping screws, and at the factory you can order a structure according to your own drawing.

As practice shows, assembly of both metal and wooden sheds usually takes only a few days. The photo shows sheds on frames - what they are like, and how beautifully they can be finished.

What should the foundation be like?

Sheds on frames are lightweight buildings, so the foundation for them is made lightweight. Most often, several posts, screw piles or a concrete block are enough - one or several, depending on the area of ​​the barn.

If the soil on the land plot is complex, the foundation can be a shallow strip foundation made of special monolithic blocks.

A reinforced strip foundation will withstand even bricks and building blocks as walls - the building will be reliable and will not crack on soil that is prone to swelling, since the movement of the structure will occur along with the foundation.

The choice of foundation type depends on the soil on the site, the area of ​​the barn, the material from which it is built, as well as the financial capabilities of the owners of the site. But it’s easier, faster and cheaper to build a shed on a frame without a foundation.

Frame lean-to shed without foundation

Frame sheds can be built without a foundation at all. There are two options. In one case, the racks treated against rotting are buried 60-80 cm, concreted, and then the lower frame is attached to them, on which the floor is laid on the joists. It is worth noting that this method is only suitable for building a small area.

On soils that absorb and drain water well, you can also build a shed without a foundation this way: the area for construction is marked out in such a way that the area on which the shed will stand is 0.5 m wider on each side than the area of ​​the building itself .

The turf is removed from the soil and a sand and gravel backfill is made, which must be thoroughly compacted. A strapping beam is laid on the prepared site, and floor joists treated with an antiseptic are attached to it - the joists will be in direct contact with the ground, so treatment with an antiseptic is required.

As soon as the logs for the future floor are laid on the site, the floor itself is made. It can be made of planks, from sheets of moisture-resistant plywood or from oriented strand board (OSB). In this case, the recommended thickness of materials:

• for boards – 20 mm;
• for plywood and OSB – 13-15 mm.

When the site for the building is ready, you can begin building the shed.

Note!

When building a frame barn with a pitched roof, the roof should be installed correctly - its angle should be such that snow easily rolls off it.

Practice shows that the optimal angle of inclination is achieved when the height of one wall is 3 m, and the opposite one is 2.4 m. It is a good idea to cover the roof with ondulin - this roofing material is also called Euro slate.

Ondulin is much more attractive in appearance than slate, it has a wave-like shape, and its color can be different, this allows you to make the roof of the barn beautiful, cheerful, truly country-like.

Having started assembling the frame, first the racks of each wall are mounted into the floor one by one. If not boards are chosen for cladding, but ready-made slabs - made of wood, metal or other material, the cladding can be installed on the frame of each wall in advance, on the ground, and the wall can be fixed to the floor in finished form. As an option, the walls can be sheathed with OSB 9.5 mm thick.

There is an alternative technology - Balloon. With this method, installation is carried out gradually - corner frame racks are immediately attached to the frame or the blocks themselves as the racks are installed in height. A rope is stretched between them at each new height level, along which the next racks are then placed.

Note!

When constructing window and door openings, it should be taken into account that the load on the frame is greater here, so it is necessary to strengthen the frame in those places where the window and door sashes will be attached. For this purpose, the openings are equipped not only with corner posts, but also with reinforced posts.

Erection of the roof

Since the roof of the barn will be single-pitched, the rafter system is simple: rafter boards, the length of which to provide an overhang (as a rule, it is made 30-50 cm) must be greater than the length of the side of the area intended for the roof, are laid on the edge. For example, if the planned area of ​​the shed is 3 m by 3 m, then the length of the rafter board should be 3.840 m.

The boards are nailed diagonally - two nails on both sides, so that the roof can more reliably withstand loads under snow pressure and strong winds; it can be reinforced with metal corners.

It is necessary to install a sheathing on the roof (100*25 mm is suitable). If the roof is planned to be covered with ondulin, then the optimal lathing pitch recommended by the manufacturer of this roofing material should be 40 cm.

The final step is to cover the roof with the selected material - ondulin, slate or others.

Note!

Completing the construction of the shed

After the walls and roof are erected, windows and doors are installed in the prepared openings.

You can make a small porch at the door or just one or several small steps - depending on the height of the threshold of the barn.

The lining of the shed can be painted to match the roof, or, if it is wooden, leave it a natural color, which will look organic in the dacha by oiling it.

And to make the building look aesthetically pleasing and neat, the foundation should be covered with an asbestos sheet.

Such a barn, if the site on which it is being built has already been prepared, can be erected in just a couple of days. Built with your own hands and taking into account individual needs, it will turn out to be very comfortable and beautiful.

Photo of a do-it-yourself shed

Every dacha begins with buildings. You don’t want to carry gardening tools with you every day; you need to rinse off after work, and there’s nowhere to hide from the rain in an “open field.” Therefore, not a single plot is complete without outbuildings in which you can store work equipment, crops from your personal plot or firewood. In the end, you may want to have chickens or rabbits; they also need somewhere to live. Wooden or metal utility blocks are designed to solve these problems.

Purpose of utility units

The utility block is a non-residential building, traditionally a room for storing various property. Country utility blocks are usually small in size and can be universal or designed for specific needs. If you don’t have enough free space in your house for equipment and want to put all the tools in a separate room, it is recommended to build a utility unit.

Few people would refuse to take a refreshing shower on a hot summer day. And for this purpose, it is customary to install a small building for a shower in the utility block, which combines the shower stall itself and the necessary equipment and furniture for comfortable ablution. Another direction is utility toilets, which are made taking into account sanitary and hygienic standards and their design does not spoil the overall appearance of the estate or summer cottage.

Outbuildings in the form of change houses are intended for those summer residents who, for some specific reason, do not want to build a permanent structure on their site, or are just in the process of building a garden house. An equipped wooden outbuilding will be able to satisfy modest living needs or provide shelter from bad weather. In addition, such a building will become an auxiliary building and temporary shelter for hired workers.

Household units will undoubtedly be useful for any family that lives in the country in the summer. Such a structure can also play the role of storage for vegetables and fruits, act as a workshop, pantry or summer kitchen. Firewood for dacha farming is most often stored under a shed or in a woodshed, which is often an extension to the outbuilding. Another typical part of the outbuilding is a barn, which is necessary for keeping poultry and rabbits.

Design of a country house block

The utility units installed on the site most often consist of container blocks. This structure is a fairly simple structure of a frame-modular type, the basis of which is a frame made of a channel or corner covered with wood boards. Such outbuildings are very mobile, do not require the construction of a foundation, and the construction of the building does not require a lot of time and the participation of qualified specialists.

As a rule, wooden outbuildings are covered on the outside with galvanized corrugated sheets, and sheet iron is laid on the roof. At the request of the developer, blind or opening windows can be installed. If outbuildings for a dacha consist of several container blocks, depending on the purpose, it is possible to install internal partitions, as in the photo of do-it-yourself outbuildings.

If you plan to use utility units during the cold season, its floor, shelves, walls, windows and doors are insulated using heat-insulating materials, mainly improvised ones. To protect yourself from moisture, you can use a special moisture-proofing material, and the use of pest control and fire-retardant impregnations makes household units invulnerable to various types of pests.

Space planning

When choosing a location for a utility block, you should take into account the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97 and the purpose of the building. If you will keep livestock, poultry, or install a toilet in the building, then the minimum distance to the residential building from its wall is 12 meters, to the border of the neighboring plot is 4 meters. If it is planned to equip a shower room in the utility block, the minimum distance from the residential building should be at least 8 meters, and from the border with neighbors - 1 meter.

Please note that even if there is only one meter left to the neighbor’s property, behind the utility block you can store a ladder, firewood, and the remains of building materials, and water from the roof of the building will not fall on your neighbor’s things during rain. The best thing is to place the utility block next to the neighbor’s utility block in a “back to back” type, then all its “beauty” will not be visible behind the neighbor’s shed, and your neighbor will not be able to see yours.

In garden plots you can find a great variety of outbuildings. The disadvantage of such buildings is the significant consumption of building materials for their construction. And the main thing is that all these buildings take away such scarce space from the garden and garden! This problem can be solved by combining several rooms in one building. A typical drawing of a utility block is a combination of a summer shower, a toilet and a utility room located between them.

In order to save free space on a plot of land, it is customary to build a multi-storey utility block. The underground floor can be used as a cellar and compost pit; above there will be a storage room and a workshop, a bathroom and a summer kitchen, as well as a small shelter. As an extension, a barn for birds and livestock, as well as a woodshed, is being built. There is space in the attic for hay, a dovecote and seedlings.

You can solve the problems described above if you attach a utility block to the garden house. It is best to attach a utility building to a blank wall of a house without windows, which is located on the north, north-east or north-west side.

Laying the foundation

So, you have already decided on the location of the future utility block, now you can start building the utility block with your own hands. It is necessary to first cut off the fertile soil layer by 150-200 millimeters, compact it and place the sand in a layer of 100 millimeters. Then you should mark the perimeter of the base and mark the points where the columnar foundation will be laid - in the middle and at the end corners of the wide sides of the building.

The foundation usually requires 6 pillars, for each, drill holes with a diameter of about 200 millimeters and a depth of 1200 millimeters, while each piece of pipe under the foundation pillar should also be 1200 millimeters long. Pour 100 millimeters of sand or fine gravel into the bottom of each hole, then compact it. Lower the sections of asbestos-cement pipe into the prepared holes and level them to their vertical position. Pour and compact sand between the walls of the holes and pipes to fix them.

Cement mortar must be poured inside the exposed sections of asbestos cement pipes, but only to 1/3 of the pipe volume. After this, lift the pipe up by 100-150 millimeters, fix it at the level and wait 2-3 days until a concrete base is formed at the bottom of the holes, the diameter of which is larger than the diameter of the pipe, thanks to this, during winter heaving of the earth, the columnar foundation of the utility block will not rise with your own hands.

Then prepare 4 pieces of reinforcement that have a diameter of 10 millimeters, a length of at least 350 millimeters, of which 150 millimeters goes to immersion in the solution, which will fill the pipe sections, and 200 millimeters protrudes out. After this, prepare the solution, completely fill the container of each pipe, accompanying the casting with the bayonet procedure and placing the embedded reinforcement in the center. Complete hardening of the foundation takes two weeks; during this time, the pillars should be hidden from sunlight and periodically moistened with water.

Construction of the frame

The frame is usually assembled from timber, which has a cross-section of 150 by 150 millimeters. Connect the timber forming the frame together with a half-wood groove and secure it with four galvanized self-tapping screws. To install the frame on the foundation pillars, grooves are marked and drilled in it. Between the pillars and the frame on the foundation you need to lay a layer of roofing felt, bend the protruding edges down so that moisture does not accumulate under the beam.

Before final installation, treat the wooden frame, like all other wooden elements of the utility unit, with an antiseptic and two layers of drying oil. Three logs made of timber are installed along the perimeter of the grillage in increments of 1350 millimeters. To build the frame, prepare a beam with a section of 100 by 150 and 100 by 100 millimeters.

It is convenient to lay frame beams of different lengths, as shown in the video of the utility block with your own hands - on the front side with a length of 3000, on the back side with a length of 2400 millimeters, thereby you will significantly simplify the procedure for making rafters for a pitched roof.

To begin, assemble identical end frames, each of them will have an opening for a window. All connections of the grillage frame and vertical posts are made using reinforced galvanized angles and self-tapping screws. Set up your front side stance first. At a distance of 1000 millimeters from it, two racks are mounted with a distance of 600 millimeters between them. The installation of the end of the utility block is completed by the last rack with a length of 2400 millimeters.

To achieve greater diagonal rigidity, install struts with a section of 100 by 100 millimeters between the first and second, third and fourth racks. Cut the ends of the struts at an acute angle of 45 degrees, attach them to the frame and racks with bolted connections. Place window crossbars between the second and third posts. In exactly the same way, you need to assemble the second end frame of the utility unit.

Then you can start assembling the frame of the front facade - set up the main racks, which are 3000 millimeters long. Two of them were already installed when the end frames were assembled, the two middle ones need to be installed, the step between the nearest racks should be 1800 millimeters. To prevent the racks from “walking”, temporarily connect them together with a board using screws or nails.

Since the internal area after the construction of the utility block will be divided into several separate rooms, it is necessary to arrange a window opening and doorways in the front facade. The width of each of them can be made the same. It may also vary. Between the third and second posts, measured from the front frame, you need to set diagonal braces.

The frame of the rear facade is made in the following sequence: there are already end posts, you need to install 2 intermediate ones with a length of 2400 millimeters with a pitch of 1800 millimeters and install braces between the first and last two posts. Make the top trim from timber at a height of 2000 millimeters from the grillage frame. It will consist of segments that are equal to the distance between the vertical posts, and will be secured with self-tapping screws through a reinforced steel corner.

Vertical racks are made of 2 boards that have a cross-section of 40 by 120 millimeters. One board is attached to the inside of the frame with screws, the other is attached to the first one on the frame of the frame either with an overlay or with a stop. Each composite rack must be fastened with nails every 400-500 millimeters. After checking the verticality of the racks, you need to strengthen them with struts. The work on the construction of the utility block can be completed by fastening the upper frame, which will rest on the external posts for strength.

Assembly of rafters and roofing

The rafters are assembled on the ground; installation on the racks of the utility unit is carried out ready-made. Rafters 5000 millimeters long are made of timber with a cross-section of 100 by 50 millimeters; they are connected to each other by a lathing made of 30 mm edged boards with a pitch between the rafters of about 850 millimeters.

The distance between the sheathing will depend on the weight of the roofing material with which you plan to cover the roof - for example, when using metal tiles, there is no need to create a continuous sheathing. Conversely, when using a soft roof, it is better to use a continuous sheathing.

At an angle of 10 degrees, it is necessary to cut grooves in the racks where the rafters will rest. Its overhangs and eaves should be sewn up before installing the roof; for this, use a 30-mm edged board. To install the rafters on the racks, you need to pre-drill holes in them for self-tapping screws. Then place the structure on the joists behind the utility block along them and face up, using stops, lift it to the placement location.

Using uncut boards, create a sheathing spaced along the rafters every 0.8 meters and cover with roofing material with an overlap of at least 100 millimeters. Lay slate sheets from bottom to top of the roofing felt. Overlap the sides of the sheets by one wave and attach them with screws to the sheathing, having previously drilled holes in the ridges that have a diameter 2 millimeters larger than the diameter of the screws. Be sure to place rubber washers under the screw heads. If desired, insulation can be placed in the space between the walls. Hem the ceiling with hardboard or planed board.

Final work

So you have built a utility block. After carrying out this work, you should begin cladding the walls outside. To do this, you can use lining, edged boards, OSB boards. To insulate walls, it is best to use mineral wool. It is also customary to lay glassine between the insulation and the outer skin, which serves as a waterproofing layer. It is not advisable to lay glassine from the inside, as it has a not very pleasant smell. For hydro- and vapor barrier of internal walls, it is recommended to use foil, which can improve the thermal insulation of rooms.

The floors in the utility room are usually made of planed 40 mm boards. When laying floors made of unplaned boards, it is necessary to additionally sand them or cover them with linoleum. The wiring can be carried out outside or hidden in the walls, but it must be enclosed in special insulating boxes to protect against fire.

In the shower room, there should be a place in the floor to secure the tray with the installation of a shower drain - approximately 800 by 800 millimeters. Lay a clean floor around it flush with the equipped tray. The walls of the dressing room and sink are lined with unplaned planks and upholstered using hardboard. A partition with an opening, but without a door leaf, is placed between the sink and the dressing room. Frame-panel partitions for use inside the utility unit are formed using a “half-wood” connection and fastened with self-tapping screws.

After you have built the utility block and shower, you can work on the restroom. The toilet in the utility block is made without a cesspool. If you wish, you can install a dry closet in this room or make a branch to the septic tank - a special plastic tank that is installed at an angle to the block and is cleaned as it fills. You can install both, although a dry closet will be quite enough for the first time.

Doors and windows are installed before the start of final finishing work inside the utility block. All cracks and joints must be filled with foam to prevent drafts. The easiest way to buy windows and door frames is, of course, at the nearest construction market, but you can build them yourself.

Boxes should be made from boards that are approximately 40 millimeters thick. The overall dimensions of the boxes are 1.9 by 0.8 meters; on the back wall of the toilet it is recommended to provide a small window under the ceiling in addition to the front one. Door leaves are usually held together on mortise keys or planks made of boards, which differ in thickness of about 40 millimeters.

After we built the outbuilding with our own hands and finished the building, there were still a couple of working moments left. If expensive tools and equipment are stored in a country house, you should protect yourself from thieves by additionally equipping the windows with special bars. Although it is not a residential building, you still need to take care of the integrity and safety of its structural elements. When it rains, you can see how water flows from the roof of the utility block onto the ground and splashes the walls. The structure becomes damp, and over time the walls begin to rot. To drain water away, it is recommended to use gutters.

Special hanging gutters are made rectangular or semicircular. For a semicircular gutter, it is necessary to determine the diameter by adding about 3 centimeters on each side to beat off the stiffeners. Round the gutter on a firmly attached pipe. To hang the gutter, it is customary to install two outer brackets, then a cord is pulled between them and the remaining brackets are mounted along it. Strengthen the gutter in such a way that there is a slight slope for drainage.

Now you know how to make a utility block at your summer cottage! All construction work usually takes from one week to 30 days. Therefore, building a utility unit with your own hands is more profitable than buying a ready-made solution.

Your summer cottage is your place of comfort. In order to provide this comfort, considerable strength and, of course, a suitable tool will be required. Surely, many of you are working in the garden or in your own garden. It is necessary to maintain areas of different sizes in each season. Therefore, a completely logical question arises: where should we store tools and all kinds of equipment? This shortcoming can be solved by erecting a special building designed for this purpose, namely a barn for a summer residence.

There are a huge number of ways to carry out this construction. Depending on your needs and planned economic costs, the type of terrain and soil, the barn can be assembled from different materials, and can also act as an extension to a residential building or a separate structure. Before construction, decide on the material, since sheds can be made from various materials. Possible implementation options are discussed below.

Plastic shed

A very simple option in terms of organization. Complete installation is completed in a few hours. A plastic garden shed can only be used for storing equipment and tools during a certain seasonal period (it is not suitable for storage during the cold season). Despite all the positive aspects, there are several nuances - the option is quite expensive and not durable enough.

A fairly practical option for a shed due to the fact that the material is durable and, in turn, lightweight, which allows construction to be completed within a short period of time. Inside such a shed, you can screw shelves or mount hooks designed for light weight. In addition, such a barn has an attractive aesthetic appearance, which allows it to fit into almost any country interior. When building your storage facility from WPC, take care of ventilation - proper ventilation will ensure long service life of the structure itself.

Made from blocks or bricks

Building a brick shed at your dacha with your own hands is a significant guarantee of long years of service. This is a powerful option that is not affected by weather and precipitation. Installation, provided you do it yourself, will require you to have certain skills and knowledge regarding the construction of walls and pouring the foundation. Moreover, this is an expensive option. Considering the above, carefully consider the construction option; if you lack the skills, use the services of specialists.

Brick barn

Shed made of foam blocks

A wooden shed for a summer residence is the simplest organization option and the most economical. Does not require installation of a foundation; if desired, it can be sheathed with roofing felt. An uncut board is overlapped onto the support bars, then the roof is mounted, and that’s all. This option is quite inconspicuous and is used in almost every country house.

Construction plan

Before you build a barn at your dacha with your own hands, you need to carry out several preliminary operations. To begin, draw a plan of your shed, taking into account all the surrounding buildings and plantings. The location of the shed should be practical, access to it should be as convenient as possible from almost anywhere on the site (this is necessary for cases when you need to quickly remove tools or firewood due to unexpected precipitation).

When choosing a location, try to take into account the presence of sewer pipes, cables (electrical, underground), toilet (outdoor) and build your shed as far as possible from them.

When making your plan, take into account:

• The size of the shed and its location on the site;
• Dimensions of windows and doors, their installation location;
• The place where the ventilation will be located;
• Drainage system.

Foundation for a frame shed

To make a garden shed with your own hands, the first step is to build its base - the foundation. To select the required type of foundation for a specific shed, you need to decide on the type of the latter. Considering the light weight of the frame barn structure being erected, a columnar foundation is suitable.

The foundation installation process can be divided into several sequential steps:

To carry out the lower trim, you need to stock up on wide-section bars (100x100 mm if there are 15 support pillars, and if there are 9, the thickness should be 150x150 mm), as well as boards for rough installation of the floor (approximately 40 mm thick).

Do not forget to pre-treat all wooden parts of the structure with a special antiseptic material with additives for fire resistance. Cover the pillars themselves with roofing felt (preferably a double layer glued with bitumen).

We saw the bars to give them the required length. At the end of the bar, cut off half of its thickness, which is necessary for connection with the next bar.

Sawing the beams at the ends in half to connect to the other end of the beam

Connection-beams

Then, using a drill, we make holes (the diameter of each is 20 mm) and install dowels in them for each connection.

Installation of vertical supports

To organize the racks, bars of different lengths are needed (3 m for the front wall, and 2.2 m for the back wall). First, we try on each wooden support (beam rack) in the place of its future installation. We drill a hole at the end side (0.2 – 0.22 cm). Next, the timber must be placed on the dowel and secured.

Fastening can be done using metal corners screwed with self-tapping screws.

To give greater strength, we carry out additional fixation by installing slats. All elements must be level. In addition, for strength it is also necessary to know the minimum number of vertical posts (for a barn 3x6 m, for example, their number should be six). The total number of beams in this case is exactly 13 (five pieces of different lengths for the front and rear walls and three beams for central installation).

Upper harness

We prepare 2 beams and cut off half the thickness at the ends of each, as described earlier (this fastening method is called “half a tree”). The length of the bars is 6 meters each. We take a ladder or a trestle and, having climbed up, mount the bars and fasten them using corners and screws.

Floor installation

A fairly simple operation - boards of the required length are screwed to the joists using self-tapping screws (do not forget to make cuts in the right places).

If you are going to store more powerful equipment than standard ones, you may need a concrete floor - you can make it by first organizing a sand cushion and covering it with a layer of waterproofing. Afterwards, the reinforcement is attached and the pouring itself is carried out, followed by leveling.

Treat the concrete after hardening with a special impregnation if you want to avoid it from absorbing various liquids.

Organization of rafters

To make rafters, you need to know their length. To do this, we make the necessary measurements and calculations, taking into account the 20 cm allowance required for the future canopy. Accounting is carried out over the rear wall of the building and over its facade. The total number of rafters is 12 (thickness is 40 mm). It is recommended to make one rafter with high quality, and the rest according to its analogy. In addition to all of the above, it is necessary to make notches to securely fix the roof.

Each of the rafters is fixed in its proper place, followed by driving in a 20-centimeter nail.

Roof decking

For installation, boards of the following dimensions are required - 25x150 mm, length is six meters. We attach boards to the pre-assembled rafters using nails (the distance between them should be 15 cm). Then, between the last rafters and the bars from the top frame, we fasten the block vertically by diagonally drilling screws.

To make protection from the wind, it is enough to simply sheathe parts of the rafters that extend beyond the level. The cladding is made of wooden floors on the bottom and sides. For the last stage of the roofing, lightweight decking materials are selected; a prime example is metal tiles or corrugated sheets.

The installation procedure is as follows: we lay waterproofing on top of the sheathing (usually roofing felt). Afterwards, metal tiles are laid from the right edge moving towards the center. Ondulin should hang 5-6 cm from each edge. Fixation is done using nails driven through the tiles into the boards.

Wall cladding

To begin with, you need to sheathe the walls using OSB. Of course, don’t forget to make doors and windows in the necessary places. OSB is fastened using beams and self-tapping screws. The distance between each of the screwed screws should be about 30 cm, and the distance from the edge of the OSB sheet should be approximately 10 cm. When installing the sheathing, do not forget to leave a gap of 0.3-0.5 cm.

After completely covering the structure, we make an overlap of windproof material, and then we attach thin slats that will form the corresponding cells for laying mineral wool. Mineral wool is necessary for insulating the shed, which will allow you to operate the building at any time of the year. For extra confidence, we lay a moisture-proof layer on top of the mineral wool and cover the barn with boards. If siding is used, preliminary installation of thin slats is required to provide ventilation.

Inside, the walls are finished according to the desire and taste of the owner. This type of shed is quite durable and, if you follow the above instructions, will serve you for a very long time.

Watch a video about building a frame shed.

The foam block shed option is durable, although it may suffer unwanted economic losses. This is due to the high cost of the material, but foam blocks are durable and easy to install.

The construction of such a barn can be done with your own hands in several stages:

1. Prepare the soil for future concrete. Remove grass, debris, cut the soil to half a meter.
2. Pour the foundation (strip type), let the solution harden (carry out the pouring in sunny weather, and after it, make sure that the concrete does not dry out, to do this, pour water on it at the right time).
3. Place the roofing felt on the finished foundation (for greater moisture resistance).
4. Mix the solution for fixing the foam blocks (cement and sand in a ratio of 1 to 4).
5. We lay foam blocks, having previously mounted the corners. During installation, we maintain the level; all horizontal and vertical constructions must be strictly perpendicular. Leave openings for windows and doors in planned locations.
6. Making a roof. Almost any roofing material is suitable for this; for greater aesthetics, use a gable option for organizing the ceiling.
7. The last stages are installing doors and windows, and laying the floor.
8. We finish the walls outside and inside (plaster the outside, and cover the inside with plasterboard).

In order to make this construction, certain experience and knowledge is required. If they are missing, contact construction companies for help.