Hobs are divided into 3 classes, depending on the method of heating the work surface. Combined and electric models must be connected to the electric network. We will figure out how to do this, depending on the characteristics of the home and the installation site.

What you need to know

• To connect the hob, a separate line is mounted inside the apartment (room). It is not allowed to connect other electric devices (in parallel) to this circuit.
• It is advisable to lay a separate cable (stranded wire) from the power board. In this case, the panel will be completely "decoupled" from the common electrical wiring. Sometimes it is allowed to connect the device to an existing line, although this is not desirable. Why?

Firstly, you will have to take into account the degree of wear and the cross section of the wires - this is for you. The hob is a device characterized by increased electric power. This characteristic must be specified in his passport. In order for the wiring to be guaranteed to withstand, its “quadrature” must be designed for a load that exceeds the calculated one by at least 2 times.

On a note!

To find out what section of the wires are brought into the apartment, you do not need to disassemble and look at something. For example, remove the front panel (cover) from the light switch. By the way, the most common mistake is when the owner determines the characteristics of the electric circuit in this way. The fact is that a wire with conductors of one section can be brought into the house, and another one can be connected to the switch (socket) from the terminal box (this happens quite often). You need to see what kind of "squaring" of the wires extending from the meter - then there will definitely not be an error.

Secondly, there are other appliances in the house that can work simultaneously with the panel. Therefore, we are talking about the total power. It is impossible to foresee all the features of the operation of equipment, accidents, unforeseen circumstances, especially in the future. For example, the acquisition of some other electronic device. This is an additional argument in favor of laying a separate cable.

*Approximate panel power (kW) is indicated in brackets.

The circuit must include devices (moreover, separate, not involved in other lines): RCD and circuit breaker. The rating is selected in accordance with the amount of current consumed, multiplied by 1.5.

Options and connection diagrams

Here we will not consider the nuances associated with the execution of sockets and plugs - we focus on purely electrical connections. It should be noted that the types of terminal blocks may differ for different models, but the connection principle is the same.

But first, a few points:

• If the dimensions of the pins of the plug and socket sockets do not match (this occurs), then you need to purchase a new one. Any attempt to “expand” something will lead to unreliable contact and increased sparking. What's next is clear.
• It does not make sense to purchase a “euro” socket personally for the panel and install it in houses with single-phase power supply to apartments. In such buildings there is no connection to the common house ground loop, which means that there is no corresponding wire.

single phase circuit

This is the case in most of our apartments. But the hob cable is often stranded, without a plug. How to proceed? The “zero” of the apartment is connected to the corresponding conductor of the device (usually blue or blue).

The wires of the "power" panel (specify according to the diagram, usually brown, black) are twisted and connected to the phase of the apartment. Photo option:

If a model with a "euro" plug is connected to a regular outlet, then a special adapter is used. Available for sale, within 45 - 60 rubles.

On a note! In many houses, the internal wiring is made of stranded wire, so they stick out of the wall of the same color. You can determine the phase and zero.

Connection to a three-phase circuit 380 V

Some models are designed for this. In relation to a private house, it is quite convenient.

Peculiarities:

• It is recommended to use a wire of the PVS-5 brand (or similar) for 4 "squares".
• It is necessary to check the terminal panel of the device. If there are jumpers between contacts 1 - 2 - 3 (based on connection to 1 f), then they should be removed.

The photo shows typical switching options depending on the characteristics of the circuit.

As already indicated, a “own” line is drawn for the panel. If possible, it is better to connect it directly, without an outlet, especially since the product is not a “mobile” device that is constantly moved from place to place (for example, like a coffee grinder). You can "disconnect" the cable directly on the terminal block.

The logic is simple. The socket is a common contact group in a plastic case. Each connection is, in the long term, a “bouquet” of problems. It sparks, then there is no contact. Another thing is how to disconnect from the circuit, for example, if you want to wash the product? The answer is simple - you can de-energize the circuit by moving the circuit breaker key to the lower position.

If other household appliances that are connected to ground are located next to the panel, then it is forbidden to “parallel” the product with them. For him, by analogy with a power wire, his own "earth" is being laid.

When installing the power cable, you need to lay a wire for 4 cores. 2 will be used (phase, zero), and 2 more will be spare. Alternatively, 1 of them will be used for grounding (if it is possible to connect to the loop).

Some houses have already installed sockets for connection. But how the wires are attached to them is a big question. You should not rely on the fact that the electrician did everything right. High-class apartment specialists do not go around and do not screw wires sticking out of the wall to sockets - they do more complex work.

Therefore, make sure the connection is correct! That is, will the phase contact (pin) of the device plug coincide with a similar socket socket? Or is it connected to a ground wire? You don’t need to focus on the color of the insulation - check only with a “probe”.

The author draws the attention of the respected reader to the fact that all the advice and recommendations given in the article are of a general nature, since it is unrealistic to take into account all the nuances of a particular structure, wear and tear of wires, network characteristics and many other factors. Therefore, it is necessary to start connecting not only with a detailed acquaintance with the manufacturer's instructions, but also with studying the features of the electrical wiring in your home.