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  How to make wooden entrance doors with your own hands. Independent manufacture of interior doors

Entrance wooden door to a private house, photo

Entrance wooden door can be made by anyone with correctly placed hands. Doors are one of the main elements for the interiors of most buildings.

They carry certain functions: protection from unwanted visitors, heat preservation, protection from unnecessary noise, etc. Similar designs are nowadays increasingly made of metal, but internal ones are almost always wooden.

Let us dwell in more detail on the manufacturing process itself.


Briefly what will be discussed:
  • Dowels
  • Paneled
  • Blocks
  • Block mount
  • Platbands
  • Pins
  • Hinge installation
  • Types of loops
  • Clearances
  • Regulation
  • Locks

Dowels

how to do

The main structural elements for the doors are the boards that form the panel, the dowels in the number of two pieces and the strut. It is located diagonally and serves to prevent distortions.

Typically, the slope and the keys are tamped on the panel. For this, bars are used. In more complex cases, the dowels cut directly into the boards. For these purposes, the dowels are made in size as in the figure.

Saws are made with circular electric saws, exposing them under the desired slope (about 60 degrees).

Paneled

The outside can be either plain or embossed. The corners of the platbands form a "mustache" at 45 degrees. At the beginning, vertical platbands are sawn and installed in level.

Then, under the upper part, the clypeus (horizontal) is substituted. Marked the angle with a pencil on one side, sawed off. Then it is also done from a different angle.

Wooden entrance doors with their own hands are installed fastenings of platbands with finish nails or self-tapping screws.

Pins

The most common defects are warpage due to dry material. If there are pins, then in case of warpage it will not crumble. The absence of pins is unacceptable.

Hinges

Making the entrance wooden doors with your own hands, you can not do without hinges. Loops are more than 20 types (see). The height of the hinges can range from 30 to 40 cm. For home doors, 75-150 cm is enough.

The most common are hemispherical removable, consisting of two cards (one with a rod, the other without). Hinges are sometimes used. Hinges can be left and right, as well as universal.

Clearances

Before installing the hinges, the cloth is laid so that there would not be a gap between the opening and the loop along the line of the hinges. To do this, use hardboard trimmings or the same slats, placing them so as to have a uniform gap.

The hinges cut at a distance equal to their height, measured from the inner corner of the frame. If there are spikes in that place, you need to step back 1 cm from them.

After installing the gaskets, measuring the distance at which the loops will be, the cards are circled in pencil along the contour. Hinge sockets are selected with a chisel based on thickness depth. The surface of the hinges must be flush with the door leaf, as well as the bar of the rack.

Useful advice! Door hinges are attached with self-tapping screws. If colored screws are used, then you need to know they are fragile. Black wood screws are better hardened, more durable.

Door adjustment

If over time they begin to loosen or close with a creak, they need to be adjusted. Adjustment (see) is greasing with a loop, tightening self-tapping screws, replacing them with longer ones, installing wedges in the holes (if they are loose).

Lubricants are thick and solid consistencies: pieces of a graphite rod, solid oil, lubricants. After removing or as a result of lifting it, you need to push the grease into the loop hole in a certain amount. If after a while the grease starts to stand out from the hinges, it means that it was put too much.

Sometimes they sag strongly, clinging to the floorboards. In order to eliminate this, it is necessary to place washers between the hinge cards of a certain thickness of the inner and outer diameter.

You can also rearrange the hinges above, or to plan the lower end of the door leaf. It should be moderated in order to maintain a minimum clearance with acceptable humidity.

When making entrance wooden doors with your own hands, you need to keep in mind that if cracks have formed between the panel panels, they need to be glued and puttyed, or sorted out, or closed with slats.

Useful advice! To avoid blows of a door by a cloth or the handle against a wall when opening, the buffer (emphasis) needs to be fixed on a floor. The farther it is from the loops, the better.

About door locks

It is better if there is no lock, but there is one. In the case of a proper fit, the handle is quite enough to close the door with good density. If the door opens slightly, a leather heel is stuffed on it.

The heel is stuffed with the desired thickness on the panel closer to the handle, or on the upper end. The handle must be attached to the harness, but not to the panel, because it will be stronger. When installing the handle, it is taken away from the opening so as not to injure the hand.

Outside doors have locks. The most commonly used padlocks with eyelets, as well as overhead and mortise locks. The easiest option is hanging, but they are less reliable.

Also on the external doors can be installed chains, closers, heck, bolts, eyes and other elements.

DIY wooden door assembly

Door material selection

Before you make a wooden door with your own hands, you need to choose the material. For these purposes, it is best to use wood species that are durable, but easy to process. These include:

un wood Features
Pine Among the advantages, one can distinguish such moments as:
  • Low price;
  • Ease of processing;
  • Light weight;
  • Moisture resistant.

The only thing to note is that pine can dry out over time, therefore it is not always appropriate.

Alder Also characterized by ease of processing and low weight. The only thing is that alder must be carefully treated with antiseptic compounds, as it is very susceptible to decay.
Birch Hard enough and dense wood with a beautiful texture.
Oak It is very strong and durable wood, however, difficult to process. In addition, oak is quite expensive.
Beech Strong and durable breed, resistant to mechanical stress. The only thing when making doors from beech, it should be borne in mind that this wood is susceptible to moisture. Therefore, it requires special processing.
Larch It is a strong and durable material resistant to moisture. The only drawback of larch is the relatively high cost.
Maple It has good strength and is easy to process. Among other advantages of maple, moisture resistance can be distinguished.

Note!
  If you want to make wooden doors to the bathhouse with your own hands, it is better to use linden, since this wood does not emit tar when heated.

I must say that to change certain qualities of wood allow special impregnation.

Therefore, the main selection criteria are usually:

  • The first step is to cut the fiberboard sheet, which should fit the door frame.
  • Around the perimeter, the sheet is sheathed with boards. If a milling cutter is available, profiles should be made to connect the boards together according to the tenon / groove principle. You can attach the boards to the chipboard with self-tapping screws and carpentry glue.
  • Then, stiffeners are mounted in the same way in the center.
  • Further, on both sides, the product is sheathed with plywood and veneer as a topcoat..

There is another technology for the manufacture of panel construction, which uses insulation. For its manufacture, you will need boards 25 mm thick and at least 50 mm wide, as well as plywood sheets.

Making an insulated door

So, a warm wooden door with your own hands is made in the following sequence:

  • First, from the boards you need to make a frame, which is a frame and cross-pieces in the middle. To give greater rigidity, braces can also be used.
  • Further, on one side plywood is attached to the frame.
  • Then, a heat insulator is placed in the frame, and the product, on the other hand, is sheathed with sheet material.

The paneled construction is much more complicated in execution, since it consists of many parts. Therefore, it is better to undertake its manufacture after gaining experience in manufacturing simpler products. True, after the manufacture of all the elements, the paneled door is assembled as a designer, without any difficulties.

Panel design

According to the device, it resembles a window frame, as it consists of a frame (strapping) and panels that fill the space of the frame.

Advice!
Since the door is a collapsible structure, when any part becomes unusable, you can repair your wooden doors with your own hands, replacing the damaged element with a new one.

So, the process of its manufacture is as follows:

Mounting

  1. Measurements.   Before buying products, measure the width and height of the opening (see). If there is no finish flooring, add its planned height to the calculations.
  2.   . Having laid out the details of the box on the floor, look at the presence of everything you need. Take measurements again. Do not forget, one mistake, and the work will go down the drain. Glue the parts at the corners, securing them with screws.
  3. Foaming.   Put the box in the opening. Fix the frame with wedges in the corners and in the center. Check the level of the installed frame. Opposite the wedges, install rigid struts. Then fill the cavities between the wall and the box with foam.
  4. Mounting.   Wait until the foam dries, after 12 hours you need to remove its sticking pieces. Then remove the wedges, remove the spacers. Now came the platbands. Pre-cut the necessary length at an angle of forty-five degrees, drill holes for nails. Attach the platband to the opening, fix it with finishing nails. The door can be hinged.
  5. Pens. After completing all the work, it remains to screw the handles. better in advance.

Doors are made of boards, furniture panels or beams according to previously prepared drawings. To understand what and how wooden doors are made of, we will familiarize ourselves with their varieties.

Types of doors by design

The box from the array has the following advantages:

At the same time, a wooden canvas has the following features:

  • untreated raw materials quickly absorb moisture;
  • the presence of cracks and knots;
  • flammability.

To reduce absorption, the board is dried, treated with hot steam and impregnations.

Massive doors

Before the manufacture of wooden doors, it is recommended to determine the features of the production process. The dacha can be protected from robbers by a massive sheet, for the manufacture of which thick sheet pile or planed boards are used. The resulting design is strengthened by horizontal or inclined jumpers.


  To make a massive door, a tree of dense structure is used

For the manufacture of a massive entrance door use cedar, larch or oak. Such wood is characterized by a dense structure and textured pattern.

If the design of the summer cottage includes a bathhouse, then linden, pine are used to equip the opening. The bath should be operated after processing the wood with an antiseptic.

Panel doors

For the manufacture of paneling, boards and beams are used, obtained by gluing lamellas. Then the workpiece is covered with veneer. Before you build the canvas, a drawing is prepared. It indicates the configuration of the panels. It can be the same or different. Instead of wooden elements, you can use glass.

  Panel doors are most often installed indoors

To equip the vertical and transverse elements, you need to glue the beam. For the manufacture of the canvas, a floorboard of the appropriate thickness is used. Spikes are used to fix individual elements.

  Door assembly diagram

If a panel is used to make the canvas, you need to consider:

  • the reliability of the product is directly affected by the amount of cross;
  • a home-made box is formed from a bar, and a rail or plastic is used to make the panel;
  • glazing bead is used to fix the panels.

Since the panel door is small in thickness, it is considered the best option to equip the interior doorway.

Panel doors

The panel box is made of fiberboard, veneer or laminate. The frame is assembled from boards. As a shield, sheets of fiberboard, MDF or chipboard are used.

  Panel door design

Considered canvases are classified into the following types:

  • solid - filled with bars fastened together;
  • hollow - are made of side and transverse bars. Lining is used for cladding;
  • shallow - have different filling.

To independently create a high-quality canvas, the frame is pre-coated with glued plywood. The material is laid in 2 layers. The size of 1 layer is 24 mm. This technology prevents deformation of the coating..

Tools for work

From the tools you will need:

  • to create grooves and holes, you will need a milling cutter;
  • hacksaw;
  • to polish the ends of the doors, you need a planer;
  • chisels;
  • hammer;
  • screwdriver.

  Standard door kit

To assemble the doors you will need the following materials:

  • dowel boards;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • glue.

Acquired wood is additionally dried. Boards are laid so that they do not touch each other.

Lumber selection

Before assembling the canvas, an individual plan of upcoming work is drawn up. Particular attention is paid to the selection of boards. The following criteria are taken into account:

  • financial opportunities;
  • acquisition of “commercial wood;
  • residual humidity - 15%;
  • checking the evenness of the material;
  • thickness of boards - 25-50 mm;
  • the array is polished.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Any phased plan for the manufacture of the door involves the assembly of the shield. If installation of a cloth in a bath is provided, then simple assembly of a board is carried out. To fix the boards, transverse and longitudinal elements are used. A warm box for the house is made taking into account aesthetics. The assembled shield is ground.

Making a door from solid wood

The step-by-step plan for assembling the web includes the right choice of consumables. To make a shield, grooved boards with a thickness of more than 25 mm will be required. Then the consumable is sawn into pieces.


  The tongue and groove boards should be flat and without grooves on the front sides

When assembling the shield, it is recommended to take into account the direction of the annual rings. To connect the tongue-and-groove boards, a thorn-groove lock and wood glue are used. If the consumables are non-grooved boards, then they are collected with glue.

Work is carried out on the surface of a large area. The collected coating is tightened with clamps. If the shield is dry, it is milled. In order to have good sound insulation, it is recommended to assemble a shield from several layers of boards. The resulting structure is clamped with clamps.


  Traditional methods of dressing boards in solid wood doors

For strapping, the cross members installed at the top, in the middle and at the bottom of the cover are used. Marking for grooves is performed on the canvas. The recesses to be made should be ½ of the thickness of the consumable.

  Assembly diagram

Using a milling cutter holes. It is more difficult to cut the grooves manually. This will require a chisel. A rubber mallet is used to insert the cross member. If you plan to apply a drawing to the resulting shield, first draw a pencil around its outline according to the template. A cutter is used for cutting.


  Cut-outs are milled according to a pre-applied pencil drawing.

Then the painting is carried out with pre-treatment with an antiseptic. On the canvas and the box make markings for the installation of loops. The marking for the handle and the lock is similarly done. The last stage is the canopy of the canvas into the opening.


  Antiseptic and varnish treatment

Panel door manufacturing

Instructions for the manufacture of thyroid tissue allows the use of finely filled boards. Specialists distinguish 3 methods of assembly of such a design:

  • preliminary assembly of the frame with the subsequent filling of its internal space. Using this technology, you can create a solid or finely filled shield;
  • separate manufacture of the shield with its subsequent fixation in the frame. The last stage - lining with finishing material;
  • the manufactured shield is mounted in the frame, faced.

To assemble the canvas according to the first technique, primary strapping is carried out. She will determine the size of the future door. For the construction, a bar with a section of 30 × 120 mm is used. Consumables are cut according to the dimensions of the future design.

The next step is to select the type of connection in the corners. Experts advise using the "half tree" method. Accurate marking of future grooves is an important stage in the assembly of the shield.


  Wireframe connection diagram

All grooves are coated with glue. The joining of the beam is carried out on a flat but large area. If the glue has dried, the joints are fixed with pins. To do this, through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm.

For facing the frame, plywood or fiberboard is used. The marking is carried out, the frame is removed. The frame is returning to its original place. It must be pressed to the facing material treated with glue.


  Plywood or fiberboard is used for cladding

To fill the internal space, MDF is used. It is glued to the bottom sheet of finishing material. But first the glue should dry well. In parallel, it is recommended to prepare consumables for the outer cladding of the canvas.


  Internal filling gives the web rigidity

If you need to glue 2 sheets, then the first sheet is fiberboard, and the second is laminated material or shf. The resulting design is sent under the press.

It is possible to sheathe the door with natural wooden battens. They are fixed to the frame. The holes made are filled with a mixture of glue and sawdust. If the surface has dried, it is treated with sandpaper. All corners and ends are processed by a mill. In the finished door leaf and,. The door is mounted in the appropriate box.

Using a similar technique, a frame door is made - the internal space is additionally strengthened by beams. But before starting work, accurate calculations are carried out, a drawing is prepared.

Panel door manufacturing

To make a panel door, you will need special carpentry tools and experience. The structural components are made of plywood, massive boards. A drawing is prepared in advance, on which 4 panels are marked.


The frame is made of timber. It is pre-treated with a mill. Then a groove is made on one side of it. Spikes are cut on the crossbars, and the edges are milled. In the grooves, insert panels and mediators.

The end part of the coating, which will go to the end of the canvas, should be flat. In vertical elements, slots are made to assemble the structure.

To make panels, plywood or chipboard is used. Some panel elements are replaced by glass. In this case, glazing beads are additionally used. Panels with a flat plane are mounted and framed with a glazing bead.

Otherwise, the panels are milled. In this way, a relief configuration is created. Plywood is used for the manufacture of panels. Each element of the future canvas is treated with an antiseptic, dried.



All parts are assembled in a single design on a flat surface, and each spike is coated with special glue. Step-by-step door assembly:

  • gluing the cross members into the grooves of the vertical bars;
  • installation of middle men;
  • installation of the remaining panels;
  • gluing a vertical bar;
  • fixing glazing beads for decoration.

To install the spikes into the grooves, a rubberized hammer is used. The canvas is lined on the sides. A corner is used to check the corners. The coating is compressed with clamps.

On the canvas, markings are made for installing loops and handles with a lock. Fittings are installed after finishing work. For the finish, acrylic paint is used either. To get a dark coating, use a stain.

Warming and soundproofing


  Door insulation scheme

Painting

The next step is the processing and decoration of the manufactured structure. It is recommended to adhere to the following plan:

  • processing the coating with sandpaper or a grinding machine;
  • wood impregnation with an antiseptic. The first layer should dry well. Then the processing is repeated;
  • the canvas is covered with special putty, which can be replaced with a primer. In this case, the canvas is processed 2 times. But each applied layer should dry well. This will take about 2 days;
  • paint, varnish, stain are used to finish the coating. The stain should be applied to the primer. Taking into account the desired shade, the corresponding number of stains is applied. It will take 4 hours to dry each coat. To fix the result, the stain is coated with two layers of varnish.

  For finishing the door, paint, varnish, stain are used.

The door market is huge and natural wood is still an unfading classic. But not every door can be done by a novice, so then you will find out what kind of paintings the amateur can take and which ones are best ordered in the workshop. After which we will analyze in detail how to make a door at home, and in 2 versions and with all the subtleties.

Not every door can make a beginner

It is not a problem to make wooden doors yourself, but first you need to figure out where you intend to put this canvas and what requirements for its aesthetic and operational data are presented. You see, one thing is a pantry in the backyard and quite another thing, making your own doors for rooms or your favorite bathhouse.

Massive canvases

In this case, the term "massive doors" does not refer to the size or weight of the door leaf. This means that the doors are completely made of wood and there are no technological voids inside. Plus, such a canvas is assembled from solid boards and does not have any windows or other inserts.

Massive doors belong to the elite product

In stores, the price of such a product is one of the highest and at the same time making solid massive doors with your own hands is quite realistic for any home master. The durability of such a sheet is the highest, only iron doors are stronger than massive ones, and then not everything, when compared with Chinese goods, it is better to make the door yourself from a grooved board.

Making a do-it-yourself door from a solid board for a beginner is quite real

Of course, you don’t need to take on a solid canvas shining with exquisite polishing, but how to make the doors yourself, for example, for a bath, we will tell you in detail, but a little later.

Paneling

Simply put, the term “paneled doors” means prefabricated sheets. That is, at first some kind of frame is made, and then panels (inserts) are inserted in certain places of this frame.

In classic paneling, such inserts are made of wood. In interior paneled doors, glass can be used instead of wood. The design is light and beautiful, plus less material is required.

But for beginners, we do not recommend tackling this type of door. Firstly, to properly dock the frame slats and insert panels into them, you need a skill, and secondly, to make such paintings, you need a lot of good, including a professional tool.

Inserts in interior paneled doors can be made of different materials

Panel and frame cloths

From the point of view of the layman, panel and frame doors are not much different. It is believed that the shield door consists of a rectangular box, which is sewn from both sides with whole sheets of fiberboard or plywood. At the same time, her frame sister is made of the same box, only inside are installed stiffeners made of wooden blocks.

Professionals divide these doors according to other criteria; they distinguish between solid, hollow, and shallow canvases.

  • Solid canvases are the highest quality in this niche. Inside the box is filled with a wooden rail, which at times increases the strength of the structure. True, the quality of the rail is not the highest, waste often goes there. In part, this design resembles a solid massif, only a high-quality sheet pile is used there, and here production waste;
  • Small hollow canvases - from solid doors, such doors differ in that the interior of the canvas is fragmented. Roughly speaking, when they want to save money or there are not enough wooden slats for continuous filling, these slats are fastened with passes, through one;

On the left (A), continuous, and on the right (B), shallow filling of the canvas

In panel panels, technology and existing GOSTs allow, in addition to wooden battens, to use chipboard, MDF, polystyrene and even cellular cardboard as a filler.

  • Hollow panels - the easiest and cheapest option for doors. Here, on both sides of the box sheets of plywood or fiberboard are simply stuffed. To the empty box was not so noisy, the filler is mounted there. The cheapest type of filler is honeycomb, and the best is polystyrene.

It is clear that it is easier to make simple doors with our own hands, so we leave the paneled constructions alone and dwell on massive and panel panels.

Two options for assembling the door leaf

We decided on the types of structures, but before making the door with our own hands, let's briefly go over the minimum set of tools and choose wood for our future work of carpentry.

Which tool do you need

There aren’t many tools, at the same time it’s not always possible to buy a complete set, but since we cannot do the door ourselves without the tool, we will go through the main positions.

Joiner tools for making doors

  • Wood hacksaw;
  • Electric drill;
  • Square;
  • Roulette;
  • A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver;
  • Plane;
  • A set of chisels;
  • Level;
  • At least 2 to 3 clamps;
  • Metal hammer;
  • Mallet (wooden or rubber mallet);
  • Pliers;
  • Awl;
  • Emery or grinder.

If you want to make a really beautiful door with your own hands, you will have to fork out for a high-quality hand milling cutter with a conductor (guide bed for the movement of the milling cutter). Without it, curly details you will not do.

Without a good cutter, a beautiful door cannot be made

Choose wood

When choosing a tree species, it is advisable to consider several recommendations. So for a dry room you can take any wood, but since we make the door with our own hands, it is better to refuse hard wood such as oak or acacia, it is better to refuse to process them.

In wet rooms, for example, in a bathhouse, it is better to take larch, aspen or pine, they are less prone to decay. But at the same time, only hardwood is used for the steam room, at high temperatures resin will flow from the conifers. The most affordable option is linden.

For the doors you need the so-called "business forest". Unlike usual, there are fewer knots, and most importantly it is well dried. Humidity of working wood should not exceed 15%.

Some companies offer wood soaked with protective compounds in autoclaves, it costs a third more, but then you don’t fool your head with antiseptics, plus industrial impregnation is an order of magnitude better.

In no case do not buy curved boards, especially the “propeller”, no matter what they tell you, it is no longer realistic to align the behavior of the board.

Option number 1. Doors from a solid array

Making a door with your own hands begins with the selection of a board. The fact is that the basis of the canvas is a shield, recruited from a grooved or simply planed board. If you make doors to the utility room, then you can take an ordinary board, it is cheaper. If the door is in a prominent place, then it is better to buy a grooved board.

The minimum thickness of the door board is 25 mm, but it is inconvenient to work with such a bar, so if you have a single-layer board, it is better to use a board with a thickness of 40 mm or more.

The shield from the tongue and groove board is an order of magnitude better

First you take the boards and on a completely flat table you connect them together. The tongue and groove board is joined according to the tenon-groove principle, so it can be difficult to assemble the board “dry” the first time. At this stage, your task is to remove all burrs so that the shield connects normally.

When the shield is assembled, you number the boards with a pencil and disassemble the structure. Now, in turn, lay the wood glue in the groove of each plank and reconnect the shield into a single structure. This time, the first plank rests against some kind of hard ledge, and all subsequent boards, when docked, are firmly knocked out with a mallet.

To prevent the shield strips from dispersing during drying, they must be pulled together in 2 - 3 places with clamps from the sides, plus 2 flat boards are applied from above and below and also pulled together by clamps. With this approach, the planks will not lead anywhere.

The shield is pulled together by clamps in 2 - 3 places

In a day, part of the clamps can be removed and the installation of the main stiffening ribs can begin. Stiffening ribs is the easiest option for assembling massive doors, you can position them as you like, the main thing is that they reliably hold the vertical slats of the shield and provide rigidity to the canvas.

The connection will be an order of magnitude stronger if you embed stiffeners in the web array, but here you have to choose grooves for stiffeners. Theoretically, such grooves can be selected with a hacksaw and a chisel, but only a master is capable of it, it is better for an amateur to do this job or even refuse to cut in strips, just nail them on top.

But there is another alternative option in which overhead stiffeners are not used. For this case, you should have a cutter. The scheme is approximately as follows: you assemble the shield, after which, cut a groove along the upper and lower end of the shield and glue the grooved board into it. Additionally, the connection is fixed with screws.

The decor of massive doors made of wood is a separate big topic and it is best disclosed.

Option number 2. Assembly of the shield door

If you figured out how to make the doors yourself from an array, then collecting hollow panel doors for you will not be difficult. In this case, the most important thing is to assemble a solid frame. Often for these purposes, a board with a thickness of 20 mm is taken.

The option of joining the corners is shown in the diagram below, but if you do not want to bother with cutting grooves, you can do it easier, take metal furniture corners and select small recesses under them with a chisel, pull the case with corners. In any case, then all the connections will be covered with a shield.

The most affordable box sheathing option is fiberboard or plywood, but the appearance will not be the best. If the appearance of the doors is important to you, then it is better to buy a finished laminated MDF panel, among professionals such panels are called door cards.

Typically, an MDF card just fits on a good carpentry glue, but if you doubt the strength of the structure, you can add a few screws. Only in this case, the hats of the screws will have to somehow be covered, for example, with stickers or plastic chips.

We do not recommend you to make a completely hollow door; there must be several stiffeners inside. And so that an empty box does not “ring” the rest of the space can be filled with polystyrene or mineral wool.

For insulation and noise absorption, it is advisable to fill the shield door with foam or mineral wool

Now you just have to select and embed the hinges and then install your new doors. You can learn about the intricacies of choosing and inserting hinges, and the technique for installing doors is shown.

Conclusion

As you can see, making a door with your own hands is not so difficult, in any case, a person who is not afraid of a hacksaw and a hammer is such a task on the shoulder. In the video in this article, the masters reveal their subtleties and give recommendations for arranging doors, so study our instructions, watch the video and don’t be afraid, you will succeed.

How to make wooden entrance doors with your own hands? Currently, the industry produces a large number of entrance doors from various materials and with various finishes. But the cost of such products is quite high.

If you want to install an entrance wooden door and at the same time save the family budget, you can make a solid entrance wooden door. To do this, you need to purchase the necessary materials and strictly follow the technology of the work.

How to install an entrance wooden door

Materials and tools:

  • boards;
  • wooden wedges;
  • struts;
  • wood glue;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • screwdriver;
  • hammer;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • drill;
  • nails
  • loops;
  • roulette;
  • building level.

Door Frame Making

First you need to take measurements of the opening. After that proceed to the installation of the door frame. To do this, you need to lay down the elements of the box on a flat surface, on the floor. Check the correctness of right angles using the building level. Then you need to glue the box elements at the corners. The connection is fixed using screws.

Install the box in the doorway. Then you need to mount the frame by installing wedges in the middle and at the corners. Using the building level, check the installation of the box. Then they put struts opposite the wedges. Using mounting foam, fill the gap between the door frame and the wall.

After the foam has dried, after approximately 12 hours, remove excess parts of the foam. Then wedges and struts are removed.

Then set the platbands. To do this, cut out the part of the required length, drill the required number of holes for nails. Mount the platband to the opening with nails. The product will be mounted on hinges.

DIY wooden front door

Materials and tools:

  • boards;
  • solid wood;
  • thermal insulation;
  • wood glue;
  • roulette;
  • building level;
  • plane;
  • chisel;
  • drill;
  • milling cutter;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • loops;
  • hammer;
  • nails
  • sandpaper.

The entrance model must be durable, reliably protect the house, not to let the cold pass. The design must be made with insulation. One side of the product must be sheathed with insulating material. Therefore, there will be no panels on this side. It is made smooth, without panels, and glued with fiberboard.

It is necessary to purchase boards having a thickness of 50 mm. The width of the board should be 11 cm. This design is made for a door frame measuring 200x90 cm. After measuring the box, its dimensions are specified and the dimensions of the future door are determined. To do this, reduce the size of the box on each side by 0.5 cm.

Then take measurements. The dimensions of the product are reduced on each side. This will result in about 192x82 cm.

The product must be made with 5 panels. They are made of solid wood.

To complete the construction, 2 longitudinal boards will be needed, which will be located in the length of the product and have a size of 192 cm. Then 4 transverse boards are made with a length of 72 cm.

When mounting, the distance between the cross members is left so that all panels are of the same size.The connection is performed according to the principle of a thorn groove, the size of which will be 5x6 cm.

Connect all the structural details to each other. Check the horizontal and vertical elements using the building level. After that check the correct installation of the product.

There should be no gap between the tongue and groove joints. In this case, the spike should not fit completely into the groove. If during the inspection it turned out that the structure was assembled correctly, all joints are treated with wood glue.

Since the product will be under the influence of a sharp difference in temperature and various precipitation, to increase its strength it is necessary to make dowels.

For the manufacture of dowels in longitudinal boards, holes are drilled with a drill with a depth of 10 mm using a drill. They must pass through the spikes of the diameters. For the construction, 8 dowels are installed.

Then, using a planer, deformations between the joints are eliminated. After this, it is necessary to prepare the milling cutter with a special nozzle. This nozzle is designed to produce grooves. You can use a window mill.

Using a mill, a groove is made. It should be located on one side of the product and be half the thickness of the door leaf under the panels. Then, with the help of a chisel, round the corners of the joints.

After that, panels are made. They are made from solid wood. To do this, they are cut out taking into account the required dimensions. It is necessary that they are securely fixed in the grooves.

On a milling machine, on one side of the board, a panel is made. It is necessary to adjust the position of the surface of the milling machine.

Then it is necessary to polish the panel on the front side. Then it is mounted in the door frame.

Panels must be flush with the door frame. This is necessary so that the fiberboard sheets are installed correctly.

The panels are fixed with screws. They are screwed at an angle so that it is not noticeable from the back of the canvas. After that, fiberboard is installed and nailed with a hammer with nails.

To finish the outer side of the door, an edge mill is made. After manufacturing it on a milling machine, it is necessary to sand it with sandpaper. After that, screw the handles and insert the lock. Then the product is installed in the door frame on the hinges. This completes the manufacture and installation of the wooden entrance door.

A self-made entrance door using this technology will be strong, reliable and durable.

If you wondered: how to make the interior doors yourself? Either you are an incorrigible needleworker who cannot imagine life without tinkering with something, or your design ideas are so grandiose and enchanting that you couldn’t choose the right one among the thousands of models of finished doors. In both cases, it is worthwhile to soberly assess your capabilities, have experience with wood and carpentry tools, be prepared for the fact that the door drawn in the sketch in nature will be very different from the picture.

In the 21st century, self-made doors are exotic, akin to weaving bast shoes or baskets from willow twigs. But since there are people who still remember how this is done, that means there is a need for their skill.

Types of interior doors

Do not overestimate your potential and take up the manufacture of paneled doors if you do not have access to professional carpentry equipment. With manual or electric saws, jigsaws, drills and grinders, it is impossible to achieve the required precision in the manufacture of parts.

It’s easier to make a panel interior door. The manufactured door leaf can be equally suitable for swing doors, and for various sliding options. At the same time, you will absolutely not be tied to the standards of sizes existing in house building and you will be able to make doors under any doorway, and any, most intricate form. Though like a hobbit in a hole - round.

When you have decided on the concept of the future door, you need to measure the doorway in which your masterpiece will be installed.

Material needed

To make panel doors it is possible from the most various materials: wood, plywood, fiberboard, plastic panels, drywall. Moreover, they can be either frame or frameless.

As a frame, a bar of not the highest quality can be used, the only requirement is that it be dry and without visible curvature along the length and twisting along the axis. As a filler between the facing layers, mineral insulation or polystyrene foam can be used, according to the requirements of SanPiN, suitable for use in residential premises.

If you want to make a panel frameless interior door, then you need to calculate the required amount of lumber according to the area of \u200b\u200bthe door leaf and translate the resulting value into cubic meters, since in most stores lumber is sold in cubic meters. It’s not difficult to do it yourself.

With the standard size of the interior door 800x2000 mm, its area is 1600000 mm². Standard thickness according to GOST - 40 mm. We multiply 1,600,000 x 40 \u003d 640,000,000 mm³. And since 1 billion millimeters is contained in 1 m³, we divide the resulting value of 640,000 00: 1,000,000,000 \u003d 0,064 m³.

Similarly, you can make a calculation of the needs of the filler.

Essential tool

To work, you need a fairly large number of diverse tools. It is advisable that you have:

  • A circular saw (the option is a jigsaw, although you will never get a straight saw).
  • An electric drill (an option is a screwdriver powerful enough to drill holes and use wood drill bits).
  • Electric grinder - if you plan to make a glued panel door from solid wood.
  • Hand saw on wood.
  • A set of chisels.
  • Set of feather drill bits on wood.
  • Screwdriver with interchangeable bits.
  • Clamps (4-6 pcs.).
  • Hammer.
  • Mallet.

  • Planer with a piece of iron at least 40 mm wide.
  • Rubber spatula.
  • Paint brushes of various widths.
  • The gun for polyurethane foam.
  • Gun for sealant (acrylic).
  • Measuring tool: level, tape measure, metalwork or joiner's corner, 1000 mm metal ruler.
  • Consumables: self-tapping screws, nails, anchors, plastic and wooden dowels.

Production of frame panel doors

A frame panel door implies the presence of a wooden frame with a contour around the perimeter of the door and several transverse elements connecting the long sides of the door in order to give structural rigidity and the possibility of mounting hardware. Usually, one additional element is located at the level of the future door handle.

Initially, exactly the same size is cut out of plywood (laminate, fiberboard, MDF) two identical canvases exactly the size of the door. Then two long and three to four short blanks are cut from a bar or board. When cutting workpieces, one should strive for the most accurate observance of an angle of 90 ° for the transverse elements, since they should fit tightly over the entire width of the workpiece to the vertical elements without forming a gap. This will affect the geometry of the door and its strength.

The simplest is the glue connection on furniture spikes (wooden). To do this, 2-3-4 holes (depending on the width) are drilled from the butt end of a short (transverse workpiece) depth ½ of the length of the tenon, lubricated with wood glue and hammered with a hammer until they are fully inserted into the hole.

Similarly, holes are drilled from the inside of long workpieces, at the level of which horizontal frame parts will be located. To be 100% sure that the holes coincide, the drilling of all holes is carried out according to a prefabricated stencil: which can be made of an aluminum corner with a shelf of 40 mm. or any sheet thin metal.

After installing the spikes on both sides in short (transverse parts), they are laid out on a flat surface, the protruding spikes and ends of the parts are lubricated with glue and a long part is applied to them so that the spikes enter the drilled holes. With a mallet, the long part is beaten evenly along the entire length until the studs are completely immersed in it. The second long part is similarly glued. After that, it is necessary to tighten the long parts together with long clamps or a device for tightening the floor laminate with each other with the maximum possible effort.

When gluing, it is important not the amount of glue, but the compressive strength of the parts to be glued!

After the glue has dried, first the lower panel of the casing is glued, then the filler is placed in the voids and is also fixed with glue and assembly is completed by gluing the top sheet. Immediately after this, it is necessary to ensure a tight pressing of the panels to be glued by placing a load on the door or tightening it with clamps through the mounted transverse boards below and above.

When the glue dries, the cloth is cleaned with sandpaper from glue drips, polished irregularities along the edges of the workpieces, if necessary - primed along the perimeter, overwriting existing cracks and irregularities using a rubber spatula. After drying, the primers are again treated with fine sandpaper and wiped with a damp cloth to remove dust.

The canvas is ready for further finishing with the selected material or for painting.

Solid wood frameless door assembly

For such doors, lumber of the required thickness is selected and preferably flat in texture, without a large number of knots and surface defects. If possible, calibrate by thickness (discrepancy not more than 1 mm.). The basis is a sheet of plywood or other material. On it, the lumber sawn along the length of the sheet is laid out so that it evenly covers the entire surface of the sheet.

The sheet on which the calculation was carried out is lubricated over the entire area with carpentry glue and the selected blanks of lumber are laid tightly to each other, while the butt ends adjacent to each other are lubricated with glue. After fully laying out all the blanks, they must be pulled together with clamps or a screed for floor boards (laminate) and placed on top of the load, or pulled with short clamps through the boards placed across the door of the door.

After the glue dries, the door is processed with a planer along the long side - excess lumber is removed to the required width, then it is grinded with a grinder to completely even out possible differences in the thickness of the lumber blanks.

So it turns out the door on the one hand has a base, and on the other hand - a wooden surface made of solid wood that can be preserved in its natural form or also covered with some decorative material.

Doors made of plastic panels

The manufacture of such doors is advisable for rooms with high humidity (bathtubs, toilets, storage rooms for vegetables and balcony cabinets, etc.

In essence, these are the same frame panel doors, the difference is that the assembled frame should be 15 -20 mm smaller than the dimensions of the door frame. This is necessary so that after assembling the cover, consisting of plastic panels, it is possible to sheathe the door around the perimeter with a thin wooden lath, which will close the honeycomb structure of the plastic panels at the ends.

Before starting the installation of plastic panels, it is necessary to treat the frame with solutions that prevent the development of mold and it is advisable to soak it with hot linseed oil.

After mounting the panels and nailing around the perimeter of the rail. Such doors do not need additional decoration or painting. It will only be necessary to varnish the rail or paint it to match the color of the plastic panels.

To summarize

Home-made interior doors are more a whim than a necessity. Those rare cases when it is impossible to choose the finished option in the store, or to order the manufacture of doors according to individual sizes for professionals, is an occasion to change the design concept of the room rather than undertake such a time-consuming work with an unpredictable result.

 


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