The rational use of the bathroom space largely determines the level of its comfort, and the aesthetic component is important for making the room cozy and attractive. A plumbing element such as a toilet cabinet helps achieve these goals. If such a product is present, using the toilet will be as convenient as possible.

The bathroom is one of the most important areas of the house, and mistakes in its arrangement can affect the comfort of life. To enhance the ergonomic characteristics of this space, it is worth choosing functional, beautiful, durable closets for the toilet.

Furniture of this kind has a huge number of advantages and allows you to solve many important issues when arranging a bathroom:

• veiled communications (sewer and water pipes), you can give the room an attractive, neat look. Naked pipes can hardly be called beautiful, and their design rarely fits well in an apartment. Therefore, do not leave them unattended. By choosing the right locker, it will be possible at any time to get to the communications without any particular difficulties, which is extremely important in the event of a breakdown;
• choosing a spacious model, you can provide yourself with additional storage space household chemicals, items for cleaning. If you divide the space inside the product into an area for pipes and for shelves, you can save a decent amount of space in the bathroom. This is especially important when the room has small size, as, for example, in Khrushchev;
• if there is a water meter, it can also be hidden in a closet in the toilet. Thus, you provide yourself with hassle-free access to the equipment, but hide it behind the facade of the furniture for greater aesthetics of the interior.

Such furniture has a lot of advantages, it is for this reason that it is so popular these days among owners. country houses and apartments. But they are revealed as much as possible if a quality product is purchased.

Product variants

Modern toilet cabinets are very diverse in terms of operational parameters and appearance, so the consumer can easily choose a model in any style, depending on the decor of the bathroom of a particular size and color.

Let's describe the most popular types of toilet cabinets. By the type of doors, plumbing products are distinguished with:

• louvered doors of two types: roller shutters and "pseudo-blinds". The first option is convenient for a small bathroom due to its compactness. The door does not swing open, which requires additional space, but folds up, rising up. Therefore, louvered models can be hung in places that are inconvenient in shape. The second option is a conventional facade made in the form of blinds, but without the presence of movable slats. Such a door allows the interior of the furniture to be perfectly ventilated;
• a plumbing hatch that covers a niche with pipes. In practice, the hatch is a regular corner frame, on which a metal door with a lock is mounted using hinges. Note that such a solution will not be expensive, but the hatch does not always look stylish, expensive;
• swing facades - it is better to make such structures to order. They are varied in design, size, functional and practical;
• compartment doors - this design does not require additional space to open the door, since it simply slides behind the second facade.

Louvered

Swing

With sanitary hatch

Based on the material of manufacture, models are distinguished from:

• natural wood is an expensive, beautiful, durable material. But it is worth remembering that when combining a bathroom and a toilet, the service life of a wooden cabinet may be reduced. An increased level of humidity will negatively affect the quality of surfaces.
• MDF - the cost of MDF structures belongs to the category of average, but under the influence of water, the material can lose its shape;
• Particleboard is the most undesirable option for a combined toilet with a bathtub, since particleboard quickly absorbs moisture from the air and swells. But for a separate toilet, chipboard is an ideal option in terms of cost and external aesthetics;
• plastic is the most practical option, since plastic is absolutely not afraid of high humidity. But appearance plastic models are not always aesthetic. It is rather a budget option.

Wooden

Plastic

Glass

Based on the shape of the product, cabinets are distinguished:

• rectangular - standard products that are selected for the bathroom more often than others;
• angular triangular - fit perfectly into the space of the corner, which allows you to rationally plan it;
• angular in the shape of a trapezoid - more spacious than a triangular model;
• radius - have an unusual design, but are quite expensive.

Placement methods

If a sewage pipe passes in a niche, it is worth picking up a standard rectangular or square cabinet in the toilet behind the toilet. It is the ideal solution for making communications attractive. The main thing is to guess with the size of the model so that it fits well into the niche. If you want to save money, you can not buy a ready-made cabinet, but pick up a hatch with a lock, with which you can close a niche with pipes.

If the pipes are concentrated in the corner of the room, then you should opt for the corner cabinet model. Such designs are characterized by high capacity, and their design will give the toilet a pleasant look.

Additional functions

In small bathrooms, it is extremely important to endow all pieces of furniture with high functionality, practicality, so that using the room is as convenient as possible at any time of the day. However, do not forget that the design of a small space also affects its comfort. Therefore, the models of wardrobes in the toilet should have additional functions. Such a product is shown in the photo in the selection.

With mirror

Backlit

How to choose the right one

If the design of the bathroom has been chosen, it remains to choose a suitable cabinet model for it. When choosing a mini size toilet cabinet, it is important to remember the following:

• initially it is required to decide on the choice of the shape of the product. If there is a niche, choose built-in models to order, if not, you can choose more affordable, ready-made models;
• then take measurements of the space in order to understand which cabinet of what scale will successfully fit into the bathroom. It is also required to measure the parameters of the pipes, which will hide in the cabinet. Be sure to sketch schematically the features of their location before leaving the furniture store;
• choose the current color scheme and design of the sanitary element that will perfectly complement the decor of the bathroom;
• ask the seller for a quality certificate for the product, which will guarantee a long service life of the furniture, its practicality, high Quality materials used in the process of its manufacture. It is also important to check the availability of fasteners and other components. If, in addition to the model, there is no bracket or hardware, you will have to purchase such fasteners separately. They will allow the installation of the structure on the wall surface.

Remember, the closets in the toilet, the photo of which is presented below, should be in harmony with the decoration of the room, complement it with their beauty. Then the room will look laconic, holistic.

Video

Photo

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water pipe is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other water intake points, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible hose is also used for installation gas equipment... It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid is designed, which is made of the following materials:

• Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 ° C and remain functional for 3 years. At high humidity, the aluminum braid is prone to rust.
• Of stainless steel. Thanks to such a reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water hose is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 ° C.
• Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

As fasteners, nut-nut and nut-union pairs are used, which are made of brass or of stainless steel... Devices with different allowable temperatures differ in the color of the braid. The blue ones are used to connect to the cold water pipeline, and the red ones are used with hot water.

When choosing an eyeliner for water, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment, flexible hoses are also used. Unlike water models, they are yellow and do not pass environmental testing. End steel or aluminum reinforcement is used for fixing. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

• pVC hoses that are reinforced with polyester thread;
• made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
• bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and devices for connecting it to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and the quality of products is confirmed by certificates of the established form. For informational support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.

Drainage is an irrigation and drainage measure aimed at removing excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the site for a long time, the soil gleys, if the shrubs and trees quickly disappear (soak), you need to urgently take action and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging of the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogging:

• clayey heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
• the aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
• high occurrence of groundwater;
• man-made factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that impede natural drainage;
• violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
• the landscape plot is located in a lowland, a ravine, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What is the risk of excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

• the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
• oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
• the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disturbed, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
• there is an intense breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, putrefaction processes are activated.

Plants can tell you where the groundwater is.

Take a closer look at the flora of your site. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

• top water - at this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
• at a depth of 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges - vesicular, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass grow;
• at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
• from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse peas, ranks;
• from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning the drainage of the site

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

• at a depth of groundwater from 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow in high beds;
• the depth of the water layer up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetables, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry bushes, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
• if the groundwater is more than 2 m deep, fruit trees can be grown;
• optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture - from 3.5 m.

Do you need drainage of the site

Write down your observations at least for a while. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sedimentary water along a bypass channel, rather than letting them flow through your site?

Perhaps, it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend to call. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness of this issue.

At the end of the technological and production tasks related to the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, an industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the involved system by the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved, and the test report for internal sewage systems and gutters will be material evidence of the acceptance of the facility.

Visual inspection should be accompanied by the introduction into the certificate of testing of internal sewage systems and gutters according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the D series application, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary-technical systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working edition for SNiP 3.05.01-85.

Often there are problems with the storage space for household chemicals. All kinds of powders, cleaners, rinses ... There are more and more of them, and they usually have nowhere to store. It's too humid in the bathroom, it's not too pleasant in the kitchen, as they can spread foreign aromas, which are poorly combined with cooking, or rather, suck do not. Nevertheless, there is a way out - a closet in the toilet. Although the toilet is usually small, you can find free space in it - above or behind the toilet. This is where you can hang / install a toilet cabinet.

What material to make

When they decide to make a closet for the toilet, the question immediately arises of what material to make it from. If we talk about furniture, there are options:

• (Laminated chipboard);
• laminated;
• wood.

The cheapest material in this category is laminated chipboard. MDF is four times more expensive and wood is even more expensive. If you assemble doors from edged boards or lining with your own hands, it may not be more expensive than MDF. But such work requires at least a minimal carpentry skill. If it is not there, you will have to pay for the work of a specialist, which can significantly increase the final cost of the product.

If the cabinet is going to be tiled, pasted over with wallpaper, vinyl, plastic, you can use materials other than those listed above:

• plywood;
• GVL (gypsum fiber sheet);
• sheet MDF.

All of these materials are quite suitable for the device of a locker in the toilet. The only doubt can be about the GVL: will it crumble at the place where the hinges are attached? If heavy loads are not foreseen, it is quite possible to use this material as well.

Frosted glass and a mirror are also possible options for facades for a closet in a toilet

Now the question is whether to use moisture resistant materials. A closet for a toilet can be made of ordinary material, provided that it is only a toilet and not a combined bathroom, i.e. there will be no high humidity in the room. An exception is the situation when it was made using a transfer window through the toilet. Such schemes still exist in houses with an old layout. In all other situations, the use of moisture resistant materials is optional.

False wall and niche

In most apartments, the toilet is a narrow and long room. Its width is about a meter, its length is two or more meters. Such a long room is inconvenient to use - the area to the door is still not used in any way. You can improve the situation by installing a false wall. In this case, the toilet bowl can be moved forward, and the partition can be fenced off 50-60 cm. The remaining space is more than enough for comfort, and the one that turns out to be "behind the wall" can be used as a wardrobe.

Sewer and water risers will hide behind this false wall, which otherwise will have to be closed with a special one. The space behind the toilet does not have to be sewn up tightly. Here you can make a very roomy wardrobe. It can store powders, supplies of other chemicals, which are usually hard to find a place for.

For the device, you will have to take the toilet forward, nail strips to the walls and on the ceiling (40 * 40 mm will be quite normal), fill in horizontal strips that will hold the shelves. The doors for such a closet in the toilet are attached directly to the walls. Rather, to the slats that are fixed to the wall.

The plank is needed 8 cm wide. Since it will be visible when the doors are open, it is desirable that it be trimmed with the same material as the doors. It is attached with nails / screws / dowels to the wall, and hinges to it.

Toilet closet from floor to ceiling (or almost)

The closet for the washroom can be a separate piece of furniture. It has a characteristic design that cannot be confused with anything. At the bottom, the closet for the toilet has two narrow and high pedestals, which stand from each other at a distance of 50-60 cm. Above them there is one or two sections with or without doors. These are already solid sections with hinged doors.

Different design one idea - maximum use of all available space

The parameters of these cabinets depend on the dimensions of the room. You won't see such products in stores, only an individual order. From the same laminated chipboard it will not be too expensive, and there is a lot of space for storing chemicals.

There are models that are more economical in terms of use of space: in the lower part there are only supports-racks, open and closed shelves are located above the toilet bowl.

The above option is good when the load-bearing capacity of the walls is not sufficient to withstand conventional wall shelves. If you have a plasterboard, porous or lightweight concrete partition, you can look this way.

Wall cabinets

Above the toilet, you can hang a regular wall cabinet of suitable width and height. It can be part of a kitchen unit or part of a hallway. You can find a suitable sample in any modular collection. You only have to cut openings in the back wall for sewer and water pipes, but this alteration is not difficult.

Wall cabinet above the toilet: heights and fronts are different ...

If you are worried about moisture damage to the open cut, you can take self-adhesive melamine and use it to process the cut. A simpler option is painting or smearing with a water-repellent sealant.

The height of the cabinet above the toilet can vary. As you can see in the photo above, models can be hung different - on two or three shelves (total height of about 70 cm) or on five to seven shelves (total height is obtained from a meter or more). The most important condition is the cabinet must not block the ventilation opening... Second point: it shouldn't interfere. That is, there should be access to the flush button, and while sitting on the toilet, you should not bang your head against the door. Based on these considerations, the size of the wall cabinet in the toilet is selected. Since the parameters of the toilet bowl, cistern and installation of the entire structure are different, the depth of the cabinet can be from 35 to 60 cm.

What to make doors

If you decided to make a closet in the toilet yourself, it is usually not a problem to make shelves: two parallel strips are stuffed on the walls, shelves are laid on them. Instead of slats, you can install furniture shelf holders - they are of different sizes and shapes, they are installed simply. A hole is drilled in the wall, into which the extended part of the holder is inserted. This is one type. The second is the brackets that attach to the wall. In general, there are usually no problems in this part.

But with what and how to make the doors, there may be questions. The easiest way is to order a facade of the required size in a furniture workshop. It is better to order together with the strips to which these doors will be attached. And you can also ask to embed the loops. Then it will be easy to install them in general: screw them to the wall and that's it. Possible facade materials: laminated chipboard, LMDF, plastic, aluminum + glass or aluminum + plastic.

There is an option - to make the doors from sheet material and paste over them with the same tiles that were laid on the walls. This is in case you don't want the cabinet to stand out. You can also stick a mosaic of a suitable shade, use flexible tiles (sheet plastic under the tiles), stick washable wallpaper, glass wallpaper for painting, etc. There are actually a lot of options.

One of the main problems of a city apartment is the eternal lack of space. Countless detergents, tools, screws, nails, spare faucet taps and other household items are rapidly filling cabinets and shelves. Today we will meet several simple constructions closets that can partially solve this problem.

Wishes

Ideally, any home-made cabinet above the toilet should satisfy a few simple requirements.

• The depth of the structure should be minimal... There is not enough space in the toilet; our goal is to make good use of the niche behind the cistern, and not to deprive ourselves of the rest of the comfort.
• The structure must be moisture resistant... The humidity in the bathroom is always slightly higher than the average for the apartment due to the evaporation of moisture in the toilet bowl and cistern.

In addition: the toilet, bathroom and kitchen are more often than other premises subject to flooding in case of accidents.
It is desirable that the next incident does not force the owner to make major repairs.

• Finally, the cabinet above the toilet should not block access to the risers located in the niche.... There are often hidden valves that shut off the water to the apartment, and coarse filters. In houses where hot water is not distributed centrally or is supplied intermittently, in the same niche there is often a boiler or instantaneous water heater.

Materials and solutions

What can be used to build a cabinet in the toilet behind the toilet with your own hands with a minimum of time, effort and money?

Here are some simple solutions.

Drywall

Very aesthetic open shelves can be made from moisture-resistant drywall.

The frame is assembled from a galvanized profile; the procedure for further work is quite traditional for structures made of gypsum board:

1. Plasterboard parts cut to size are hemmed to the frame with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. You can use a jigsaw to cut drywall, or you can simply break off the sheet by cutting it with a sharp knife to a third of its thickness.

1. The seams and caps of the self-tapping screws are putty with gypsum putty (ABC, Fugenfüller) twice with intermediate drying.
2. Then the seams are roughly rubbed with a sanding mesh and swept away from dust, after which the entire surface of the gypsum board is primed with penetrating soil.
3. The next step is to reinforce the seams. In the author's humble opinion, for this purpose it is better to use not a serpyanka, but a rolled fiberglass: with sufficient strength, it will make the seam less noticeable and make it possible to do without additional costs of the putty for leveling. Fiberglass is glued to PVA slightly diluted with water.
4. After the reinforcement has dried, the seams are re-putty as thinly as possible, "on the sdir", with a layer of plaster, polished with a mesh, swept and primed.

How can you decorate the plasterboard shelves in the toilet behind the toilet?

Plywood

A very sturdy and durable cabinet behind the toilet in the toilet can be made of plywood.

The specific design of the reader will be prompted by his creative talent; the author will focus on the technical problems of construction.

• It is better to use FC plywood 15 millimeters thick. The more moisture resistant PSF is not suitable for residential premises due to the composition of the adhesive: it contains phenol formaldehydes.

• Shelves up to half a meter long do not need stiffening ribs and can be mounted on galvanized corners screwed to the walls with dowel screws. Longer shelves are best reinforced with vertical ribs cut from the same plywood. Rib width - about 50 mm; it can be run along the near or far edge of the shelf.
• A circular saw is best for cutting plywood. Jigsaw cuts will always be less straight. You should drive the saw slowly along the cut: this way there will be much less scoring.
• Elongated parts are marked on the sheet so that their longer edges on the front side are parallel to the veneer grains in the surface layer. The reason is, again, at the edges of the cut: when cutting along the fibers, there will be no untidy scoring and raised chips.
• Thick plywood can be joined end-to-end with self-tapping screws 45x4 mm. The part, which is mounted flat, is pre-drilled with a 4 mm drill; the end face of the second part is drilled with a diameter of 3 mm to a depth of 30 mm. Do not forget to countersink the hole to hide the screw head.
• Parquet varnish on an alkyd-urethane base can be used as a protective and decorative coating. It is applied in three to five thin layers with intermediate drying. Before applying the first layer and after it has dried, the parts must be sanded: FC plywood initially has a far from ideal surface; varnishing will raise the pile on it, which will make the plywood rough.

Wood

Wood compares favorably with plywood in that it does not sag under long-term exposure to significant loads. In addition, wood (especially of noble species) looks much better under a layer of transparent varnish; however, the price of this material is not comparable to the cost of one or two plywood sheets.

To connect parts from a solid array, not self-tapping screws or nails are used, but pins set on glue. For the manufacture of dowels, hard woods are used (birch is quite suitable from inexpensive ones); it is better to use natural adhesives: casein or albumin.

Wooden cabinet. The wall is made of lining, the door is made of a thin strip.

Chipboard

The chipboard laminated on both sides attracts only by the simplicity of finishing the finished structure: in essence, the manufacturer only needs to paste over the ends of the parts with an edge band. With moisture resistance, everything is sad; we are also not talking about any resistance to deformation - for shelves over 30 centimeters long, stiffeners are required.

The only thing for which laminated chipboard can be used without any problems is the manufacture of cabinet doors. The doors in the toilet behind the toilet will not be subject to serious mechanical stress, and the vertical orientation will not allow the material to deform under its own weight.

In panel apartment buildings, with a ready-made plumbing cabin, divided into a bath and a bathroom, riser engineering communications, as well as a water supply to the apartment, is located in the toilet behind the toilet. During construction, they are closed with an ugly cabinet with a door, which are often changed to decorative cabinets. One of the options for such a decorative cabinet, which covers the riser utilities and the water inlet to the apartment, can be a cabinet made of plasterboard. If in the last article a cabinet was built from gypsum cardboard in the bathroom, here is how to make a cabinet in the toilet behind the toilet from gypsum cardboard.

Working conditions

We have a toilet in panel house, about 800 mm wide. Behind the installed toilet, a wardrobe is made with a door made of chipboard, painted or pasted over with PVC film.

The task is to replace the existing, unsightly wardrobe with a wardrobe in the toilet behind a gypsum cardboard toilet with a hatch door, for access to utilities. The hatch door is planned to be faced ceramic tiles along with the walls in the toilet.

Measurements

For the correct purchase of materials, even before dismantling work, the following measurements must be taken:

• The width of the toilet from wall to wall, in the place where the cabinet is installed;
• The height of the toilet from floor to ceiling;
• The height of the upper part of the toilet bowl, taking into account the height of the finished floor.

Picture

Let's draw the future wardrobe on a piece of paper. In the figure, we indicate the hatch door. The bottom of the hatch should not be lower than the height of the barrel to be able to open it. If the barrel is planned with a vertical drainage mechanism, with a lever, the height of the drain handle must be taken into account.

Note: the dimensions of the hatch door are standard and can be viewed on any seller's website.

Together with the drawing of the cabinet, we will draw a diagram of the frame. The frame of the sanitary cabinet between the toilet walls is not complicated. Vertical posts against the walls and at the hatch installation sites. Horizontal pillars on the ceiling and floor, as well as reinforcing pillars at the bottom and top of the hatch installation. Around the hatch to be installed, a kind of frame of profiles for drywall should form, and the profiles themselves need to be strengthened wooden beams, to be able to fix the hatch door.

Materials

For these works, we need the following materials:

• Guiding profile (PN);
• Wooden bar for strengthening the profile at the hatch installation site;
• Drywall moisture resistant in the area of \u200b\u200bthe cabinet 12 mm thick. To strengthen the structure, you can use two layers of drywall 10 mm thick;
• Self-tapping screws for gypsum board, self-tapping screws, dowels and screws as needed;
• Dichtungsband type sealing tape.

Instruments

For these works, we need the following tool:

• Electric drill (or hammer drill);
• Scissors for metal or "grinder" for profile cutting;
• Assembly knife for cutting drywall;
• The ruler is metal;
• Construction level;
• A set of screwdrivers or screwdriver.

Do-it-yourself closet in the toilet behind the gypsum cardboard toilet: Stages of work

Work stages include:

• Removing the toilet;
• Dismantling the old cabinet;
• Leveling the floor in the area of \u200b\u200bthe cabinet (if required);
• Installation of the frame with the strengthening of the racks with a bar;
• Sheathing of the frame with plasterboard;
• Installation of a hatch door;
• Sealing drywall seams, preparing for tiling.

Stages of work execution

Remove the toilet

Having previously turned off the water supply and draining water from the barrel, the old toilet must be dismantled. It will interfere with work.

Dismantling the old cabinet

With the help of a crowbar, an ax and a nail puller, the old cabinet must be disassembled. The walls must be free of all structures.

class \u003d "eliadunit"\u003e

Leveling the floor around the cabinet

If necessary, the floor in the area where the new cabinet will be installed must be leveled. Debris must be removed, and the floor must be leveled with a leveler, it is semi-dry and will not leak to neighbors. The leveling agent (semi-dry screed) dries for 3 days.

Markup

The layout of the cabinet consists in drawing the profile fixing line on the walls, floor and ceiling. Marking lines must be strictly vertical.

Fixing profiles (frame construction)

A frame made of profiles is mounted according to all the rules for installing plasterboard structures. The profiles are fastened to walls, floor, ceiling with dowels and screws or dowel-nails. The profiles are connected with self-tapping bugs or a cutter. The reinforcement bar is inserted into the profiles and fixed with wood screws. If the hatch is large and heavy, the vertical bars are best spaced from ceiling to floor.

Important! Dichtungsband sealing tape must be installed between profiles and structures. The tape is glued to the outer flange of the profile.

Installation of the hatch

Conclusion or Conclusions

The closet in the toilet behind the gypsum cardboard toilet is tiled along with the walls.