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Paving with your own hands is not a very difficult decision, and it can be implemented on your own. To equip paths on a garden plot or near a house, paving tiles or paving stones are most often used.

The use of paving stones for landscaping is very popular, because it does not retain moisture during rains, and also has a beautiful appearance.

What is necessary for the preparation of pavers?

As an arrangement of the territory, many people prefer paving stones rather than asphalt or continuous concrete pavement, since puddles do not form on it. If there is a need to carry out new communications or repair those that are already laid, then the paving stones are easy to remove and then put in place, which you will not do with asphalt or solid concrete pavement. They will have to tear and lay a new coating, while the paving stones are used the same. If asphalt with strong heating in the sun releases harmful substances, then pavers have no such drawback.

If you decide to make paving tiles yourself, then this is only half the story, it still needs to be laid correctly and only in that case it will look attractive and have a long service life.

To create paving stones with your own hands you will need:

• separate room or at least a canopy;
• table or sheet of metal;
• rack;
• special forms;
• mortar, which consists of cement, sand, water; plasticizer, dye may be added;
• reinforcement to increase tile strength.

You can create molds for paving stones with your own hands, or you can buy ready-made ones. In order to make a pattern and create a relief of the surface of the pavers, you must first prepare the stamp. To do this, they often use a rigid wire from which various shapes are made. When the surface hardens a little after pouring, a prepared brand is installed on each tile and a relief surface is obtained.

In order to get a more durable, reliable paving, you can reinforce it or add screenings, a plasticizer, and to make it more beautiful, use dye or fillers (pebbles, glass, pieces of tile).

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Features of the choice of form

DIY homemade craftsmen can make molds for paving stones with their own hands, but you can buy them in the store. The variety of forms is very large, and you can choose exactly those that will satisfy all your requirements.

Forms are of the following types:

1. Rubber. They can be glossy or matte, completely ready for use. Such forms are designed for 500 cycles of work. You can do more, but the quality will be worse.
2. Plastic They are most often sold in stores, come in a variety of shapes, but are designed for just 250 cycles.
3. The polyurethane form is used to create tiles with small details and is designed for no more than 100 cycles.
4. The form itself can be made of boards, sheet metal, pipe pieces, plastic containers and other materials. To create them, you need to show your imagination and just bring it to life, you can even use milk bags or similar containers.

The main disadvantage of home-made forms is that they will have to be lubricated, otherwise it will be difficult to get paving stones. For lubrication, you can use machine oil or its development, drying oil.

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Kneading and making paving stones

The basis for the manufacture of pavers with their own hands is always cement and sand.

Paving molds can be purchased at the store or made independently.

To change the appearance of the pavers, you can use different sand or special dyes. Water is added until a creamy consistency of the solution is obtained. In order for the tile to be stronger and similar to natural stone, you can add screenings to the solution. The use of plasticizers can increase the strength of the product, its frost resistance and other indicators.

To make the solution, one part of cement and three parts of sand are taken. If gravel is added, then it must be mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 1.

You can use dyes in two ways: they can be added directly to the solution during its manufacture, or you can sprinkle it with dye during drying of the tile and gently smooth it with a metal trowel.

The second method allows you to get a brighter and more saturated color, but you need to work with a trowel carefully so as not to damage the surface of the pavers.

If white cement and sand are used, then the dye can be sprinkled directly into the solution. The color will turn out less saturated and bright, in other cases you run the risk of getting a dirty color tile.

After you prepare the solution, you can start pouring it into the prepared forms. First, half the mold is poured, after which the reinforcing layer is laid, it can be a wire and segments of reinforcement. Then fill in the rest of the solution and compact it well, then finally level the surface.

If you decide to make a relief surface, you can take the brand and press it into each tile to the required depth. As a decoration, you can use pebbles, broken glass or pieces of ceramic tile, which are placed in a still dry solution in a random order. In order to make a smooth shiny surface of the tile until it has dried, it is ironed: the surface is sprinkled with dry cement and smoothed over it with a trowel.

• Homemade tile from Kostya9
• Home-made vibro-table and home-made tile from The commander

Homemade tile from Kostya9

Kostya9 Member of FORUMHOUSE

To implement the ideas, specialized network resources were studied on the topic of forms and the portal forum, on the topic of the process itself - the necessary equipment, raw materials base, production technology. As it turned out, plastic and other forms in stock, whatever you want, the basic materials remained from the construction site, and the available units require a relatively simple, feasible refinement. Unforeseen complications arose only with the purchase of five hundredth cement - due to the low demand from local dealers it simply was not there, I had to go to a neighboring town.

Manufacture

To make the tile as strong as possible, a circular saw was redone for the vibrating table - the working surface was replaced with a heavy plate (with springs from nine-post racks), and a vibromotor under the plate. A typical concrete mixer for the preparation of mortar, finished polymer forms, with imitation of the surface of sandstone, for drying - an old refrigerator, set sideways.

The ratio of the proportions of concrete was also selected on the forum.

In addition to the available screenings, washed river sand and purchased cement of the required grade, a plasticizer was required for the tile, the choice fell on SP-1. This is a universal additive that improves the characteristics of the solution, its use increases the mechanical strength of concrete, reduces the number of pores on the surface, gives smoothness and increases the efficiency of vibration. Although it was dreamed of a color tile, the cost of dye and white cement, to obtain a saturated color, was forced to do with a natural, gray shade.

The proportions of the batch are as follows:

• Screening (crushed stone of fraction 0-5) - 38 kg (three ten-liter buckets);
• Sand (river, washed) - 18 kg (one ten-liter bucket);
• Cement (M-500) - 17 kg (bucket of fourteen liters);
• Plasticizer - 80 grams per batch (diluted with a liter of warm water);
• Water - 8.5 liters (if the weather is hot, another 0.7 liters).

Kneading Technology:

• The first screening is laid in the concrete mixer (all);
• Water flows in;
• Add plasticizer;
• The mixture is thoroughly mixed;
• Cement is added;
• Again thorough mixing;
• Sand is added;
• Last mixing (if necessary, water is added).

The consistency of the solution turns out to be quite thick, resembling wet soil - this is a conscious choice, although many prefer to work with more fluid solutions.

Kostya9

Liquid concrete that liquid mud– no strength.

Forms pre-lubricated with motor oil (in the corners, with a brush) are exposed on a vibrating table. The grout should be uniform.

Processing time - from three to seven minutes. Vibration should not only compact the mixture, but also expel air bubbles from it. During processing, the shapes change places and rotate around their axis - so that the effect is uniform. As it shrinks, the solution is added, until the form is completely filled, you can slap it with your hand so that there are no void left. Forms are sent from the vibrating table for more than a day (25-30 hours) to the dryer. On the advice of the participants in the branch, the old refrigerator, also known as the drying chamber, was turned from side to back, which greatly simplified the process of laying and removing the product.

After this period, the finished tile easily goes out of shape due to lubrication, and thanks to ongoing hydration processes that keep the raw material in a hot state. If you overexpose the tile, and it cools down, it will be more difficult to get it out of the plastic - you will have to pour boiling water to expand the plastic. However, if you overexposure it not for a couple of hours, but for a couple of days, and it has time to completely cool, it will be difficult to remove it, even using boiling water.

Having filled his hand on a square tile, the craftsman went over to the curly one and decided to use chromium oxide as a dye.

The first test of adding dye at the norm, at the rate of 1% of the binder (170 grams per batch), practically did not give a result. It was not the color that appeared, but a light, almost imperceptible shade, so the dosage was doubled, which gave the desired greens. Like plasticizer, the dye was previously diluted in water.

Homemade tile from The commander

Commander Member FORUMHOUSE

Tile of its manufacture was covered with a barn, and a yard, paths to greenhouses too. Very good and profitable!

And in this case, a home-made vibrating table was used. Here is a “recipe” for all interested:

• Motor - from a washing machine (on rubber shock absorbers);
• From it is a pulley for a belt drive from an engine to an eccentric;
• The eccentric is a former rotor of the electric motor: it is cut off by a 1/3 grinder, a bearing cage is machined, holders are welded, the whole structure is screwed to an iron sheet;
• On top of the sheet / table - wooden flooring 60x60 cm (for tiles 50x50 cm);
• High sides - so that you can make tiles 6 cm thick.

For household purposes - paths to the barn, in the garage, along the edges, the Commander makes large, square tiles 50x50 cm in size, and for decorative paths resembling sidewalks - figured. The forms, as in the first version, are polymer, soft - unlike hard plastic ones, they do not break for several years.

The composition of the solution and the proportions per batch:

• Gravel is a bucket;
• Cement is a bucket;
• Screening - 3 buckets;
• Plasticizer - 2/3 cup;
• Water.

Water is poured into a working mixer, plasticizer is added, gravel is next, and cement is wetted after gravel is wetted. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, screenings are added. The commander does not add sand, since there is a large amount of dust in the screenings, which replaces it and prevents the formation of voids. Forms are lubricated with palm oil before use, and are easily washed with Karcher as they get dirty. But they become polluted if you disrupt the technology and not withstand the tiles laid day, so it is better not to rush.

If the owners plan to equip the tracks on their suburban area or the area around a private city house, then inevitably you will have to decide on what material it will do better and more economically. Today, paving slabs of various colors and configurations have become a fairly popular coating used everywhere.

However, this material, as well as its transportation and unloading, is not cheap, especially during transportation there may be losses, which means acquiring tiles with a margin, and this will also be an extra waste. Therefore, many homeowners are thinking about how to make paving slabs at home and at the same time save a decent amount.

Benefits of DIY Tile Making

To make this material yourself is quite possible. Of course, the lack of special equipment and accumulated experience will make this process quite long, but it will save you from searching for a variant that is suitable for the drawing and color.

If you decide to do the self-production of paving slabs, then you need to be prepared for a fairly time-consuming job. However, the result obtained from it will exceed all expectations when the paths or the playground near the house will have exactly the form that the owners thought when developing the landscape design of their possessions.

The advantage of home-made is that you can independently create an exclusive version of the tile, which is not produced either on an industrial scale, or in general, or by anyone else.

In the process of developing your own version of the tile, there is always the opportunity to experiment with the color scheme and even the shapes, since matrices for casting can also be made independently.

Forms for the manufacture of paving slabs

In the event that the tile did not find the desired configuration in the store, or if it was found, but has a too high price, or its color does not quite suit the owners, then you can always find a way out of this situation by making the matrix for its manufacture yourself. Such forms are usually prepared in the amount of several pieces, and with their help they produce as many paving slabs as will be necessary for the improvement of paths and sites on the site.

paving slabs

For this, only a few copies of the finished tile of any color are acquired, by which forms are made. In addition to the tile, a board with a beautiful textured pattern, or a stone like its outlines, can be used as an initial sample.

Matrices can be single, that is, designed for one tile, or complex, in which several products are made at once. The second option is more difficult to do, but already during the production of tiles the work will go much faster.

To make the mold you will need a formwork material and, of course, a special composition for casting the matrix.

The formwork is made larger than the size of the initial sample by 20–30 mm in height and 12–15 mm in width. It should be borne in mind that paving slabs must have a thickness of at least 35 ÷ 60 mm. As a formwork, a plywood box, a cardboard box or any other material that can withstand pouring a plastic composition for molds is suitable. Matrices themselves are made from a two-component compound based on polyurethane, or from silicone sealant.

Polyurethane compound mold

In the assortment of building stores you can find several types of compound specifically designed for the manufacture of matrices for gypsum castings, artificial facade stone and paving slabs. One of the most popular of them can be called the domestic composition of Silagerm 5035, since it has excellent technical and physical characteristics. The molding composition is made on the basis of polyurethane and is produced in two hardness parameters - 30 and 40 units. according to the table of Shore. Its main indicators are given in the table.

The matrix is \u200b\u200bmade from the compound as follows:

• The sample for the manufacture of the matrix must be well washed and dried.
• Further, the initial sample and the inner space of the prepared formwork is covered with a solution consisting of white spirit and wax. This composition is applied in two layers. It can be replaced with ready-made wax grease.
• Then a two-component mixture is prepared. For this, a hardener is added to the paste in proportions of 2: 1, and the mass is mixed until smooth. It is very important to observe the proportions, since the correct hardening of the finished material will depend on them.

If a large amount of the mixture is being prepared, the preparation process is carried out using a drill with a mixer nozzle, but a small volume can be mixed with a spatula. When mixing the mass, the drill turns on at low speed, otherwise the composition will turn out with a large number of air bubbles. If the unmixed components of the compound are not fully used, then the containers with them must be tightly closed with regular caps to prevent contact with air.

• The finished mixture is carefully poured into the formwork, in which the template is laid face up. The composition of the fill should cover the original sample completely and the thickness of its layer above its upper part should be at least 8 ÷ 10 mm.
• After filling, the formwork needs to be slightly moved back and forth, shaking slightly to rid the mixture of air bubbles. Then, with filling, it should settle for 5-7 minutes - during this time air bubbles will rise to the surface, and they can be carefully removed with a spatula.
• After 24 hours, the mixture hardens and the mold can be removed from the formwork. However, it can be used for its intended purpose only after 72 hours, after the material has acquired all the qualities declared by the manufacturer. After this time, the mold will be able to withstand even poured mass, heated to 80 ÷ 120 degrees.
• The mold from the compound will last a long time if it is treated with a special compound “Tiprom 90” before filling with the mortar for the manufacture of tiles.

This compound is sold in buckets weighing 1.5 and 7.5 kg.

paving slabs brick

Silicone Matrix

The silicone compound can also be two-component, packaged in buckets, and requiring preparation in accordance with the instructions (in general - similar to the process described above). But you can use ordinary silicone, which is known to everyone under the name of sealant. You need to buy it as much as you need to make the mold, because after opening the package, it immediately begins to set. Therefore, it is necessary to open the factory packaging of one-component silicone after the formwork and the initial sample are greased with grease and ready for filling. The most common lubricant used is ordinary solidol.

A sample of the future tile is laid with the front side up, also lubricated with solid oil and filled with silicone. The thickness above the upper part of the source should also be 8 ÷ 10 mm.

If a tile made of gypsum is used as a sample, then it must first be processed with several layers of drying oil or varnish.

To spread the silicone over the formwork, use a spatula or brush, which are dipped in a previously prepared soap solution.

A thick layer of silicone dries much longer than a compound - this period can be from two weeks to a month, and sometimes more. The length of the period depends on the thickness and depth of the filled layer. Therefore, it is better to prepare the tile form in advance, for example, by devoting winter time to it, so that the matrices are guaranteed to be ready for the summer, since it is better to work with the cement from which the paving slabs will be made in the warm season or, at least, at a positive temperature .

When the form is ready, it is removed from the formwork and washed well with grease. Next, you can start making tiles.

The main parameters of a standard silicone one-component sealant are given in the table:

It should be noted that if the owners have no desire to engage in the manufacture of matrices on their own, then it is quite possible to get it in a specialized store. However, in this case, the paths on the suburban area may not differ at all from the neighboring ones.

When choosing a finished matrix, you should not buy a plastic mold (without special need, as will be discussed below). It is better to give preference to polyurethane, silicone or rubber.

Production of paving slabs at home

Not every house has special equipment with which you can quickly and efficiently do it. Therefore, methods that allow it to be manufactured using improvised tools will be further discussed. Of course, you can’t do without special forms, and they can be made according to the instructions above or purchased in a finished form. Ideally, for high-quality and fast production it would be nice to have a vibrating table. However, as will be shown below, on a small scale it is quite possible to cast tiles without it.

Making square tiles using a plastic mold

Square tiles can be called traditional. She does not go out of fashion, as she gives the tracks rigor and accuracy. It is especially important to use this version of the tile to decorate the path leading to the house from the entrance to the site.

Illustration
	In this case, a plastic mold with a size of 300 × 300 mm and a thickness of 30 mm is used to make the tiles. The relief pattern of this variant of the matrix is \u200b\u200bcalled "California shagreen."   Plastic forms are convenient in that they have sufficient rigidity and do not deform during mortar placement, but it is more difficult to remove the finished product from them because of the same rigidity.   In order for the form to last as long as possible, and it was easier to remove the finished tile from it, it is recommended to treat the matrix with grease before pouring the solution.
	To knead the solution required for one such tile, you need sand of a large fraction - 3 kg.
	In addition to sand, you need to prepare cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, ordinary tap water 0.5 liters, red color in powder 70 g, and plasticizer - 25 ml.
	To knead the solution, you need to prepare a container - it can be a plastic or enamel bucket.   It is not recommended to use a galvanized container, since a dye or plasticizer can cause oxidation, as a result of which the color chosen for the tile can change.
	Sand and cement are poured into the prepared container. In this case, the master chose such a kneading technology, but it will be easier to mix the mass if the dry mixture is prepared in advance - sand and cement are mixed beforehand.
	So, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed using a drill with a mixer nozzle.
	The next step, in a separate container, water, dry dye and plasticizer are mixed until homogeneous.
	As a result of such mixing, a red liquid should be obtained.
	The finished solution is poured into a dry cement-sand mixture.
	All components are thoroughly kneaded with a mixer - this process should be carried out for at least 3 ÷ 5 minutes.
	After mixing, a sufficiently thick viscous coarse mass should be obtained.   It will acquire the necessary density in the process of putting it into shape and ramming.
	Next, the resulting mixture is laid out in a greased form.   First, half the finished mixture is laid out in the matrix.
	The mass must be distributed with the greatest possible uniformity in shape, lifting it and shaking the matrix.
	Then the remaining mixture is laid out and first distributed with a spatula or trowel.   Filling the matrix with a solution, it needs to be carefully compacted, pressing with a trowel.   Particular attention to the corners of the form - they must be well filled.
	Further, the matrix is \u200b\u200b“shaken” for a long time - this process occurs until the mass is compressed to the maximum and forms a completely flat surface.   When shaking, air bubbles will come out of the solution. It is advisable to carry out this work until the air does not stop coming out completely.   When the tile is produced in large quantities, a special vibrating table is used to seal the fillings - it greatly facilitates the work. However, if the molded products are made only for one track, then buying a vibrating table or doing it yourself will be unprofitable.   The mold is left to harden for 24 hours. This indicator is valid for air temperature of +20 degrees, and can vary upwards in cooler weather - this will have to be determined experimentally.
	After the required period of time, the matrix is \u200b\u200bturned over, and the tile is carefully removed from it.
	If necessary, you can slightly press on some sections of the bottom of the form, so that the product is easier to lag behind.
	The result is a neat smooth tile, but it cannot be used right away, since it must finally dry out and gain strength.   To do this, the tiles are installed on the edge and left for at least three days.   And the final set of the necessary strength, with the possibility of applying a full load to the laid tile, will end about two weeks after manufacture.

Production of the original paving slabs “pine slice” in polyurethane form

The original design of the sites and paths is to lay a wooden round log on them. However, wood absorbs moisture well, subject to gradual decay and damage by various insects. The concrete tile imitating a cut of a tree will be an excellent substitute for a natural material.

Illustration	A brief description of the operation
	This very original version of paving slabs, having a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 40 mm, consists of two layers made from solutions of different colors.   It is somewhat more difficult to make than monochromatic, since the work will have to be carried out extremely carefully, making sure that the solutions do not mix with each other.   This tile is called a “pine cut”, as it imitates a cut round log of a tree trunk.   The inner part has a beige color and a relief of annual rings, but the outer frame repeats the pattern of the hardened pine bark.
	For the manufacture of such products, a polyurethane flexible form is used, which can be made independently using the technology described in the article above.   Since the polyurethane matrix does not have the necessary rigidity, it must be installed on a perfectly flat surface. For the stand under it, a plywood sheet is usually used, which in the future will help produce shaking the solution after filling out the form.   Shaking a flexible matrix filled with a rather heavy solution will be extremely difficult.
	To make a core with “annual rings”, for one such tile, white cement 100 ÷ 150 g, sand of medium fraction - 300 ÷ 350 g, yellow or beige color - 50 g, plasticizer 20 ÷ 25 ml will be required. and 200 ÷ 250 ml. water.
	Water, color and plasticizer are combined in one container and mix well.
	Next, the resulting solution is poured into a mixture of white cement and sand.   All components mix well until smooth.   If necessary, you can add a small amount of water.
	The result should be about 0.5 liters of the finished mixture.
	The mass is laid out in the middle of the mold, previously greased with wax grease.   It may seem that it is too small, but this is a misleading impression, since when distributing the mixture, it will fill all the space intended for it.   The mass is distributed only along the inner part of the mold, which imitates the core of a round timber with annual rings.   This layer should have a thickness equal to or slightly less than the height of the rim separating the middle part of the "round" from the improvised "bark".
	The solution should be thick enough. Therefore, it is first distributed using a spatula, gently pressing it to the bottom of the mold.   It is impossible to dilute the mixture, since the mass that will be laid on top of it can mix with the more liquid bottom, and spoil the entire intended effect of the tile.
	Since there are few mixtures in the matrix, the form after the initial distribution is moved back and forth along the table surface and carefully shook.
	Further, the mass is again distributed with a spatula, and it is pressed tightly against the mold.
	After that, the matrix with the mixture is shaken again until the mass fills all the space allotted for it.   The result should be a smooth smooth pancake, if you look at it from above.
	The next step is to prepare a solution for filling the framing of the core of the round timber "bark".   For the mixture intended for the formation of this layer, and the entire main part of the tile, it is necessary to prepare gray cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, water 0.5 l, plasticizer - 35 gr., Brown color 60 ÷ 70 gr., Sand coarse fraction 3,5 ÷ 4 kg.
	Sand and cement mix well with a mixer.   Then, separately prepared is a solution of water, dye and plasticizer.
	Half of the solution is added to the mixture and mixed with the same mixer.   During mixing, part or all of the remainder of the solution is added.   The mass should be quite thick and crumbly.
	Using a trowel, the mixture is laid out in a matrix.   First, it fills the edges of the form, which will imitate the bark of a tree.
	Then, the mixture is laid out on the entire plane of the container.   When the whole composition is laid out, it forms a slide, which must be carefully distributed with a trowel.   The shape needs a little shake. Since it is sufficiently plastic, a sheet of plywood laid under it will come to the rescue, one edge of it is lifted and shaken, that is, vibrating movements are made.
	Then, the mixture is again compacted with a trowel, continuing to distribute it.
	The mold filled with the mixture is continued to vibrate until its solution surface is even and smooth.   It should fill the entire relief pattern on the side walls of the matrix.   The finished mixture is left in the form for a day for hardening.
	After 24 hours, the matrix is \u200b\u200bcarefully inverted.
	Then, the form from the tile is carefully removed.   A polyurethane or silicone matrix has an advantage over a plastic one in that it is much easier to remove it from the finished product, and the risk of damage to it is not so high.
	The finished tile must completely dry and gain strength, this will require a minimum of 2-3 days.   When drying, the product will acquire a lighter shade, therefore, if there is a desire to get a saturated color, then you can add a larger amount of color.   However, it must be borne in mind that too much dye makes the solution less durable.
	If it is decided to make a mold for such a tile yourself, then it is necessary to take as a basis a natural round timber from any tree that you like in texture, with a well-defined structure of the coarsened bark.   Before pouring silicone or compound in the matrix manufacturing process, it is necessary to process the sample by deepening the texture, otherwise the proper effect may not work.   Pay attention to the groove between the bark and the wood itself - it also needs to be deepened - as a result, a small side will appear on the matrix, which helps to conduct high-quality layer-by-layer pouring.   After laying the tiles, this thin gap will quickly fill with soil and become invisible. You can even gently fill it yourself with a trowel or ordinary cement composition

Paving slabs made "in place" using a stencil

Another affordable way to equip garden paths is to fill them with concrete mortar using a polypropylene stencil. With the help of this convenient device, it is quite possible to quickly ennoble not only narrow paths, but also entire platforms.

This instruction can figure out how to properly prepare a place for a track, and how to use a stencil. In addition, attention will be paid to how to decorate a concrete surface.

paving slabs

Illustration	A brief description of the operation
	For such work from the tools you will need to prepare:   - building level;   - large and small spatula;   - Master OK;   - bayonet and shovel;   - pump action sprayer;   - a container for mixing the mortar or concrete mixer, - a wheelbarrow is desirable for delivering the mixture to the place of filling.   After familiarization with the process of work is carried out, each master can fill up the list with convenient tools for him, or remove unnecessary ones from the presented list.
	From the materials you need to prepare:   - plastic mold for tiles;   - cement M-500;   - sand of a large fraction;   - dye, if you plan to make the tile multi-colored;   - black polyethylene for flooring on the ground;   - slag or crushed stone of a small fraction.   At the same time, it must be borne in mind that from one 50 kg cement bag, 6–7 plates with a size of 600 × 600 mm and a thickness of 60 mm can be obtained.   This list can be replenished with borders, because on an unshielded site, the track will not last long - the edges will begin to collapse.
	A few words need to be said about the stencil itself.   The design of the form is well thought out - its side walls are wider than the middle ones that separate the tiles.   Thanks to this arrangement, after pouring concrete into it and building it with strength, it is not individual stones that are formed, but a solid plate divided by gaps in the upper part by only ⅔ of the total thickness.   Besides? the mold should have two technological holes in which the handles are fixed, which will help to easily remove the stencil from the set concrete.
	To track served for a long time and not overgrown with grass, it is necessary to prepare a place for pouring it.   For this, first of all, a fertile soil layer is removed from the marked area, approximately 100 ÷ 120 mm in depth.   Then, the soil is compacted, and on top of it it is desirable to lay a black plastic film, which will not allow the germinating grass to break out.   Next, there is a layer of cement-gravel, cement-sand mixture, just sand or slag 50 mm thick.   Some save on bedding and make it only 30 mm thick, but this will not be enough. If done honestly, then 50 mm is the optimal thickness.   This layer is moistened and compacted again.
	If a narrow path is laid, then it is recommended immediately to install borders.   If it is planned to fence the track with curbs, they can be installed even after the formation of the track.
	Next, a stencil is placed on the prepared place, treated from the inside with machine oil with a brush.   In order to save mortar, as well as to strengthen the strength of the created plate and its peculiar reinforcement, crushed stone of a large fraction can be placed in the internal space of the mold.
	The next step is mixed cement mortar.   It can be made in a concrete mixer or in a container of suitable size.   The concrete mixture should be composed as follows: for 1 kg of cement and 3 kg of coarse sand, 35 g. plasticizer and, if desired, dye is added.
	If 5 ÷ 6 forms are poured right away, then it is better, of course, to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is kneaded in the following proportions: 250 g should be prepared for 50 kg of cement. plasticizer-accelerator, 9 buckets of small gravel, 6 buckets of clean river sand. So much water is added to achieve the desired mixture consistency.   A concrete mixer designed for 0.3 cubic meters can handle this volume of solution. m   To adjust the composition for a smaller concrete mixer, it is necessary to proportionally reduce the component composition.   If colored tiles are made, then it is permissible to add color in a volume of 2 to 8% of the amount of cement, depending on how much paving is supposed to be light or dark.
	Ready solution is filled in the laid form.   It is very important that the mixture completely fills the entire space of the stencil.   Particular attention must be paid to filling corners.
	The solution is distributed with a trowel. Thanks to its pointed blade, the mass will easily be placed in the corners under the jumpers of the stencil.   It is better to put the mixture more than necessary than not to report, since the excess is easy to remove with a trowel.
	The solution is leveled on the upper jumpers of the stencil with a wide spatula.   Excess mixture is removed with a trowel.   It is recommended to smooth the surfaces of the future tile to perfect smoothness, since its durability and durability will depend on this.
	After waiting 20-30 minutes until the solution sets, the stencil is removed from the tile, grabbing the handles screwed into the technological holes.   This must be done very carefully and strictly vertically, since the concrete has not yet completely hardened, and it is likely that with an awkward movement it will damage one of the corners of the tile.
	The result should be such a concrete slab.
	The form taken from the previous plate is placed next to it, observing a gap of approximately 10 mm.   Then, the stencil is checked with a building level for evenness, and, if necessary, in one or two corners, sandy backing or support is made of flat stone or ceramic tile.
	Further, the process is repeated, that is, crushed stone is placed in the form, then it is filled with a solution that is leveled and so on, until the entire planned track (platform) is closed.
	If the track is framed by curbs already installed along it, then after the coating is completely ready, the gaps between the plates and the curbs are also filled with mortar.   In addition, the formed gaps between the tiles can also be filled with concrete mortar, covered with sand or soil with seeds of a special lawn grass, which rises only 30 ÷ 50 mm.
	The gaps between the plates may be left empty.   However, it must be borne in mind that over time they will become clogged with soil, which may contain weed seeds, and it can subsequently clog the entire path and even contribute to the destruction of slabs.
	If desired, in the process of manufacturing such a coating, it can be decorated with beaten ceramic tiles.   It is pressed into the solution just filled into the stencil, and then the surface is leveled again with a spatula.
	If you want to add colorfulness to the garden plot, then the tile can be made colored by filling the stencil cells with solutions in which different colors are added.   This process will take more time and effort, but a site with such interesting paths will always cheer you up.   Using several dyes, it is advisable to prepare two or three forms for filling. So the work will be more effective, since a solution of the same color can fill areas in several stencils at once.

When starting work on arranging paths in this way, you must be sure to ask about the weather forecast for the coming days, otherwise all work can go down the drain if it rains heavily on the first night after the formation of the paths.

The stencil will greatly facilitate the work on the arrangement of the site. Although this form is quite expensive, but with only two or three such matrices, you can quickly build tracks and improve the grounds of the entire territory without involving third-party masters.

Another important point. When purchasing a finished tile, you should remember that laying it correctly is not so simple. Therefore, if you can’t make the paving yourself, you will have to invite specialists and pay them for the amount of work, which, at least, will be equal to the cost of the tile itself.

The stencil will not allow you to make blunders. Even without any experience in this area, any owner of the site will be able to independently make high-quality neat surfaces. Of course, if all technological recommendations are followed, increased accuracy will be manifested, and the novice master will mobilize all his abilities and skills.

Video: the work of the master - the manufacture of paving slabs for natural wood

Ideal for paving walkways and pitches. Such a coating does not burn like asphalt, does not crack during heaving, and does not collect puddles on itself.

One more important advantage:, significantly reduces the cost of construction work.

There are two ways to make paving slabs:

1. vibrocompression. It includes two stages: molding the mixture in a vibrating press under the influence of vibration and pressure, and drying in a heat chamber under elevated conditions: temperature and humidity. Tiles made by this method are highly durable and suitable for use in places with a significant load;
2. vibration casting. The compaction of the solution is carried out only due to vibration, for which the forms are mounted on. Drying - in vivo.

Equipment for vibropressing is expensive and therefore this method is not suitable for the home workshop. Vibration table can be made independently, so that adjustment in artisanal conditions of production by vibrocasting does not require significant costs.

The tile obtained by vibrocasting is acceptable for places with a small pedestrian load. But for the construction of a car site, its strength is no longer enough.

Necessary tools and materials

For production you will need:

• concrete mixer. In extreme cases, you can replace a powerful drill with a mixer nozzle;
• vibrating table. How to make it yourself - is described below;
•   . Sold in stores, but possible;
• construction level: they control the horizontal position of the vibrating table and drying racks. When skewed, the tile will turn out uneven;
• shovel, trowel, bucket;
• brush.

Used materials:

1. cement. Sulfate-resistant (with a reduced content of 3-calcium aluminates) Portland cement grade not lower than M400 is used. PTsII / A-Sh-400 is suitable. Preferred color - white: gray when looking stained sloppy. The production date is important: 3-month cement, even with proper storage, loses 20% strength, 6-month cement - 30%, annual - 40%;
2. filler: large - granite screenings, pebbles or slag with a size of 3-5 mm; fine - sifted clean river or quarry sand with a fineness modulus. The purity of the sand is checked by trying to mold a lump from it: if it turns out, the material contains many clay inclusions;
3. pure water. The quality in most cases is suitable ordinary tap;
4. plasticizer. Makes concrete durable, moisture and wear resistant. Good reviews from tile manufacturers received "S-3 Superplasticizer." Also used are the brands of Component, Master Silk, Plastimax F.

The reinforcement function is performed by:

• shredded fiberglass;
• micronix polypropylene fiber 12 mm;
• micronixBazalt basalt fiber 12 mm.

To give the tile the desired color, dyes are used:

• mineral: give a bright color, resistant to chemical effects and temperature extremes;
• organic: give soft, natural shades.

Paving slabs are painted in two ways:

1. surface. Dry dye is rubbed into the surface of still wet modules or stained with a solution using a spray gun. The method gives a bright color, but is labor intensive. In addition, with abrasion and with chips, the tile loses color;
2. volume. Dye is added to the solution with kneading, in an amount of 7% by weight of dry matter, which is costly due to the high cost.

For the sake of economy, the modules are poured in two layers: first, by a third or half, with painted concrete, then the rest is colorless. The maximum allowable time interval between layer fillings is 20 minutes.

The production cycle

The tile manufacturing process includes the following steps:

• preparation of the solution in strict accordance with the recipe;
• styling with vibration damping (produced on a vibrating table);
• hardening in forms of about 2 days;
• formwork (extraction of castings from molds);
• curing to full hardening.

Preparation of molds for the production of vibrocast products

Forms are purchased in the store (the most durable) or are made independently.

Homemade are of two types:

1. simple. Represent a 4-coal or 6-coal frame from wooden bars or a metal profile. The form is left without a bottom - just install it on a rubber mat covered with plastic wrap;
2. curly.

Figured forms are made of plastic materials in the following way:

• check the level of the horizontal table for work;
• put together formwork from wooden blocks;
• they lay the sample tile in it: it is acquired or made of wood / gypsum;
• gypsum, molten plastic, polyurethane or silicone are poured into the formwork.

Plastic material will repeat the contours and relief of the sample tile.

The smallest details reproduce silicone and polyurethane. But then plastic surpasses them in a resource (from one form it is possible to make more modules). Before pouring concrete, the mold is lubricated from the inside to prevent adhesion of the mortar.

With an excess of fat in the lubricant, shells will appear in the tile, with a deficiency, the solution will stick to the form. Therefore, it is important to use either special formulations (Emulsol, Lirossin), or prepare the grease itself according to a proven recipe.

For example, for a plastic mold, the preparation is prepared as follows:

• 50 g of motor oil is poured into 1.5 liters of water;
• shake the mixture for a long time and thoroughly to the state of emulsion.

Mixing concrete composition

The ingredients for the solution are taken in such quantities:

• cement: 21%;
• granite screenings: 23%;
• sand: 56%;
• plasticizer: 0.5-0.7% by weight of dry matter (m.s.v.);
• dye: from 2 to 7% m.v. (the more, the brighter and more stable color will turn out);
• fiber: 0.05% m.s.v .;
• water: 5.5% m.s. or 70% of the volume of cement.

As you can see, the solution is prepared semi-dry: only 2 buckets of water are poured into 3 buckets of cement. This is the peculiarity of the vibro-packing: the solution in the form will seem even liquid.

Cooking process:

1. dissolve the plasticizer in hot water (70-80 0 C). Approximate ratio: 1 liter per 200 g of powder. It is important to mix thoroughly, because the plasticizer is supplied gradually;
2. in water with a temperature of 40-50 0 C dissolve the dye. Approximate ratio: 3 L per 800 g of powder. When calculating the required amount of water, the liquid contained in the dye and plasticizer solutions should be considered;
3. lubricate the concrete mixer by twisting a liquid cement mortar in it for several minutes (then pour it).

After that, the components are loaded into a working concrete mixer in the following sequence:

• a fifth of water;
• cement and sand;
• coarse aggregate (when cement in water forms an emulsion or, in common language, milk);
• plasticizer and dye solutions;
• remaining water;
• fiberglass.

With stirring, do not delay, since the water evaporates. 1 to 3 minutes interfere.

In a small concrete mixer (less than 0.5 m 3), the ingredients can be served as follows:

• sand and half gravel: interfere with 30 - 40 sec .;
• cement: all together interfere for another 1 min .;
• the entire volume of water provided for by the formulation, including plasticizer and dye solutions;

Then add the remaining crushed stone and fiber, and perform the last mixing for 1 min.

Forming, curing and stripping

Forms are filled with a solution and installed on a working vibrating table. Approximate vibro-laying time - 5 min.. The level of the solution falls due to compaction, so it must be added.

When white foam appears, the vibrating table is turned off: this indicates the release of all air from the solution, further vibro-laying will lead to its delamination. Forms are installed on the rack and covered with polyethylene.

After a day or two, the castings are removed (formwork): laying the cover, knocked out of the mold with light blows of a rubber hammer. If they go badly, form for 5 minutes. dipped in water with a temperature of 60-70 0 C.

Forms are washed with saline before the next use (it is better to soak them in it for a while), prepared at the rate of 30 g of salt per 1 liter of water.

DIY vibrating table

As a vibration table, you can use a washing machine - an automatic machine switched on in the spin mode.

A simple version of the table for 1-2 forms do this:

• stack the car tire horizontally;
• on top - a steel sheet up to 10 mm thick;
• screw the jigsaw to the sheet.

A more complex option is made in the form of a table from a sheet of the same thickness and a rolling profile:

1. cook the frame. Legs are strengthened with crossbars, bosses are welded on top. A shelf is mounted in the lower part of the frame;
2. springs are put on bosses;
3. in places of contact of the countertop with spring supports, glasses are welded. The finished structure is freely mounted on the elastic elements;
4. an engine with an eccentric is mounted on the lower shelf of the frame. A unit with a power of 500-900 W, for example, IV-98E or IV-99E, is suitable.

You can use the engine from the washing machine. It is not designed for mass production, but when replacing bushings and standard bearings with bearings of a reinforced type, the resource will increase significantly.

What can spoil the finished product?

1. the rack for storing castings before stripping is installed in a level in a strictly horizontal position;
2. castings are protected from direct sunlight;
3. rapid evaporation of moisture is excluded: castings are covered with polyethylene, there are no drafts in the storage area. Water reacts with cement, so when it is lacking, concrete loses its strength. In hot weather, the castings are periodically sprayed with water.

Under these conditions and subject to the recipe, home-made tile is not inferior in strength to the factory one.

Related videos

Step-by-step instructions on how to make paving slabs at home:

Having mastered the production of paving slabs at home, you can not only save, but also make money: among the residents of the district there are likely to be people who want to purchase this popular building material.

The process, as you can see, does not differ in complexity, because the basis of success is not so much skills and qualifications as hard work and perseverance.

The only reason that makes us think about this paving method from a negative point of view is the high cost of the material in retail chains. However, there is an affordable way to significantly reduce costs. Tiles can be made at home and then its cost will be significantly lower. Therefore, this article will consider the question of how to make paving slabs at home.

Factory Technology

On an industrial scale, the production of vibrocast, vibropressed and clinker tiles for paving sidewalks is carried out. At the same time, depending on the manufacturing technology, the quality of the products varies greatly.

The technology is quite easy to use. It is built on the fact that a cement-based mortar is poured into curly shapes and compacted on a special surface by exposure to vibration.

Vibropress.

Such products have rich color shades and are sold at a low price. However, the strength and frost resistance of such paving slabs is an order of magnitude lower than that of other types.

Vibropressed Tile   make on special equipment that compacts concrete mix with high pressure. Such paving stones are stronger, but also more expensive due to the use of the press and increased energy consumption.

The best tile is clinker.   Clinker production of paving slabs occurs by roasting specially prepared clay in a furnace at a very high temperature. The final product is very strong, frost-resistant and beautiful, while not inferior in terms of durability to even solid natural stone.

But the large energy costs for the manufacture of paving slabs and the need to use expensive industrial equipment raises the cost of this material several times.

Equipment and inventory for work

In the homestead economy, there is, of course, no special industrial equipment, and therefore the technology for producing paving slabs at home is based on vibrational compaction of concrete. To do the work you will need the following equipment and inventory:

• small;
• wide container for acceptance of finished concrete;
• sieve for sifting sand;
• or another flat vibrating surface;
• molds for pouring concrete mixture;
• rubber mallet;
• shovels, buckets, spatulas.

In addition, a strong, stable rack for drying tile blanks in molds is needed.

Necessary materials

Of building materials you will need:

• cement grade PTs500 or PTs400;
• washed or river sand, preferably a medium fraction;
• gravel fractions no more than 10 mm;
• natural or mineral pigment;
• grease for molds.

In the event that gravel is contaminated or contains a lot of dust, it must be washed, because impurities can adversely affect the quality of products and their color shade.

Site Organization

First of all, it is necessary to correctly install the concrete mixer, vibrating table and rack for placing forms with concrete. These are the largest items and all actions will take place near them.

The concrete mixer, as the main equipment for the production of paving slabs, should be so that there is enough space to place a sand pile and gravel near it.

You should also leave room for buckets of water or watering the hose. The best place for the vibrating table is on a straight line between the concrete mixer and the rack for storing concrete forms.

The rack can stand indoors or outdoors, but in a place where it will be reliably protected from direct sunlight. Cement can be stored near the rack.

Molds for making

Manufacturers offer forms of the most various configuration and sizes, made of different materials. You can buy standard square or rectangular, composite of several elements or monoblock forms. These can be cups for the manufacture of each product individually and for simultaneous pouring of several plates.

If desired, molded equipment will be easy. In this case, you can get exclusive products that no one else has. For this, various materials are used - from wood and polystyrene to metal and gypsum.

It is important to remember that tiles made by vibrocasting have a reduced rate of strength and frost resistance. Therefore, an important factor when choosing forms is their depth, which determines the thickness of the future product.

In the case of home manufacture, its thickness should be at least 40 mm for pedestrian walkways and sidewalks and at least 60 mm for places of passage or parking of a car. The movement of freight transport on such a tile is extremely undesirable.

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Manufacturing instruction

The production of paving slabs by vibrocasting is carried out in several stages, which include:

1. concrete preparation;
2. preparation of forms before laying concrete;
3. pouring concrete mixture into molds and the work of the vibrating table;
4. concrete hardening period;
5. decorating and warehousing of finished paving stones.

Each of the stages has its own technological features, some of which may have several versions.

Concrete Mix Requirements

The materials for the manufacture of concrete are subject to certain requirements. Sand must be sieved through a sieve to remove particles of clay, earth and other undesirable impurities from it, which reduce the quality of concrete. Gravel should be clean. Otherwise, it must be washed with water. The use of PTs300 cement is unacceptable even when it is added in an increased proportion.

In order to increase the strength of the tiles, synthetic fibers (fiber) can be added to the concrete. Expensive industrial plasticizers can be replaced with liquid detergent. Used pigment dyes must be resistant to ultraviolet radiation and are intended for outdoor use.

The ideal ratio of the components of the mixture for the manufacture of tiles according to the calculations of specialists is:

• cement ПЦ500 - 21% or 30 kg;
• gravel or granite screenings - 23% or 32 kg;
• sifted sand - 56% or 75 kg;
• pigment dye - not more than 7% by weight of concrete or 700 g;
• industrial plasticizer C-3 - 0.7% by weight of the mixture or 50 g;
• water - 5.5% by weight of concrete or 8 liters;
• fiberglass up to 0.05% by weight of concrete or 60 g.

Since it is almost impossible to maintain such exact proportions at home, it is usually prepared according to the following calculation:

• 1 part of cement ПЦ500, 1,5 parts of gravel, 3 parts of sand;
• 1 part of cement PTs400, 1 part of gravel, 2.5 parts of sand.

As a plasticizer add liquid detergent at the rate of 1 glass per batch. Water is added gradually until the mixture becomes homogeneous, and in density it will resemble thick sour cream.

If a dry pigment dye is used in the work, it must first be dissolved in water, and then added to concrete in an amount of not more than 1.2 liters per batch.

Initially, dry components are poured into the mixing equipment for the production of paving stones, and after mixing them, water is gradually added. In this case, it is recommended to first fill up half of the necessary sand and gravel, and then pour out cement, mix and add everything else. In this case, the cement will not adhere to the walls of the mixer.

Mixing the concrete mixture with added water should not be less than 15 minutes. The finished batch is poured into a trough or other similar container, and from there they are transported or loaded directly into the molds.

Laying ready-made concrete in molds

The types of forms and their possible choice or manufacture with your own hands were discussed above. Therefore, the process of their filling and compaction on a vibrating table will be directly described here.

In order to make the finished tiles easier to take out after the mold solidifies, it is necessary to carry out preliminary processing. To do this, they are lubricated from the inside with light machine or vegetable oil. In extreme cases, it is allowed to use a thick soapy solution.

If you can afford it, then in stores you can buy a special composition for lubrication. It will provide easier lay-out, but will require additional costs.

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For quick filling of forms, it is recommended to install a low table near the vibrating table. It will be possible to put forms on it and there to produce filling. This will reduce the amount of cement spilled onto the vibrating working surface.

The pouring process can be done in three ways:

1. The concrete mixture pre-painted throughout the volume is poured into molds in one approach, the surface is leveled with a spatula and mounted on a vibrating table.
2. Initially, a quarter of the volume is filled with a colored solution, and the rest of the volume is filled with ordinary gray concrete.
3. The color layer occupies about 15-20% of the volume, and between the color and gray layers a reinforcing mesh or pieces of wire are laid to increase the strength of the products and better connection of the layers.

The first option will be technologically the simplest, but a concrete mixture with a large amount of dye may have reduced strength.

In the second case, pure concrete will play the role of a solid foundation, as a result of which the tile will turn out to be stronger. In addition, dye acquisition costs are reduced. However, it will be necessary to simultaneously prepare two different solutions - color and gray, which complicates the production technology.

The third option allows you to get the strongest and most beautiful tile, but it is even more difficult to perform. Ultimately, the choice of technology in this case is up to you.

Methods for coloring tiles

To obtain color shades on the surface of paving slabs, four different methods are used:

1. Tiles are made of colored concrete throughout the volume;
2. The products are made two-layer, where the top layer of the tile is made of colored color mortar, and the rest is made of ordinary gray concrete mix;
3. Before pouring concrete into molds, their inner surface is coated with a water-based coloring matter;
4. Superficial.

The most stable color in the manufacture of paving slabs can be obtained if the first two methods are used, but they are quite expensive from a financial point of view. The fourth option allows you to save money, but the paint from the surface will be easily erased, as a result of which it will have to be tinted periodically.

Installing completed forms on a vibrating platform

After the required number of forms is filled, they are placed on the surface of the vibrating table. In this case, it is allowed to put the forms on top of each other, but not more than in 2 rows.

Vibration processing of paving slabs allows you to displace all the air and qualitatively compact the concrete mixture. If in the process of vibration there is a strong subsidence of the solution, then you need to add it to the empty cups to the end and level the surface with a spatula.

The strength and frost resistance of products, and, therefore, their durability, directly depends on the quality of compaction of the concrete mixture. Therefore, the process of vibration processing should continue for the necessary time. The exact duration depends on the frequency of oscillations and engine power and is determined experimentally (on average, 40-120 seconds).

Concrete hardening process

After processing on a vibrating table, the completed forms must be transferred to a storage rack. The shelves of the rack must withstand a large weight load, and the rack itself should also be in the shade, excluding direct sunlight.

The process of primary setting of concrete during the manufacture of paving slabs takes 12-18 hours, but complete hardening will end only after 72-96 hours, depending on temperature and humidity. Only after this can one begin to remove products from forms and store them.

Forming and further storage of finished products

The process of removing finished products from molds after concrete hardening is called disbanding. It must be done carefully, taking care not to damage the slabs and save the possibility of reuse of forms.

If the internal surfaces of the molds were machined before concrete was poured, then the shaping will not be so difficult, especially if soft models are used.

In case of complications, it is recommended to treat the outside of the molds with hot water.   Plastic or silicone materials will expand from hot water and release the tiles. During forming, it is allowed to tap on the molds and tiles with a rubber mallet

The removed tiles are stored on pallets, observing the laying between the individual products when laying. The height of the stack on the pallet should not exceed 1.2 meters. This condition allows you to protect the tiles of the lower rows from destruction due to weight load.

Conclusion

As you can see, it is quite possible to make paving slabs with your own hands, since this technological process is not very complicated and does not require special knowledge from the performer.

True, for successful work you need to have such equipment for the production of paving slabs as a concrete mixer and a vibrating table, but you can buy them, rent them or make them yourself. The most important thing for obtaining a high-quality result is the exact observance of technology and the use of quality raw materials.

Independent production of paving slabs gives the developer the following advantages:

• reduced financial costs for landscaping a personal plot;
• there is the possibility of choosing any shape and color of the material;
• any amount of paving material can be prepared;
• independent quality control of the manufactured material.

Laying home-made vibrocast tiles, each owner can fully demonstrate their creative abilities and arrange the site to your liking and desire.