Many for suburban buildings operate on wood. In the 19th century, logging was carried out manually, but with the creation of mechanical wood splitters, human labor was noticeably easier. The very first devices were steam, and it was impossible to build them at home. Currently, you can assemble a wood splitter yourself. Drawings, photos, instructions will help you do this without any problems.

Such a device allows you to cope even with large logs and logs.

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How to choose a wood splitter: product features

If a wood splitter is needed on the farm, it is important to decide whether to buy the finished product or assemble it with your own hands. When implementing the latter option, certain skills will be required. For example, you can study the catalog of components for screw and cone wood splitters of any manufacturer and assemble a reliable and productive unit yourself.

Other equipment options work according to the principle - the motor moves special knives onto the log, upon exerting pressure on which the log breaks. To create a high-quality product, it is worth studying the information on how to make a wood splitter yourself and what type of device is better to choose.

There are a lot of installations working on this principle and they differ from each other according to separate signs:

• according to the method of laying logs. There are vertical and horizontal mechanisms. Devices of a vertical type are considered more powerful and can work with thick logs, but for a curved log you should choose a horizontal device;
• the maximum possible values \u200b\u200bof stacked firewood. Depending on this factor, the equipment is divided into industrial and domestic;
• types of drive. For domestic use, it is enough to use an electric unit with a power of about 2.5 kW.

In addition, the mass of household tools matters. A similar product can be constructed independently.

Firewood classification

To understand the drawings, photos and instructions created by your own hands, you should know what types of these devices are.

Classification of wood splitters is made taking into account the type of drive:

• a simple option for gasoline or diesel fuel, which is autonomous and highly efficient;
• for small volumes, mechanical type devices are recommended;
• stationary options include models that operate on electricity.

According to the design features and the principle of splitting, a splitter is of the following types:

• electric log splitter with a vertical arrangement of logs;

• rack type device;

• screw differs in big power;

• hydraulic.

For everyday use, it is worthwhile to choose hydraulic and screw versions of a wood splitter with your own hands. The video demonstrates how to make such products yourself.

Characteristics of cone-shaped cleaver models

In electric and diesel devices, a cone is used in the form of a cone, which splits the barrel using mechanical pressure and by moving the tip of the cleaver. At the same time, great efforts are not expended and fuel consumption is minimal.

The device consists of the following parts:

• a motor with a power of 1.5 kW, a speed of about 400 and a voltage of no more than 380;
• the bed is a tabletop where the firewood is stacked;
• gearbox is used to control the speed.

If you decide to make such a splitter yourself, then drawings, photos, instructions for it will be easy to find on the pages of the interior, and all the components can be found at an affordable price. Similar devices are used for small, and.

Features of a hydraulic wood splitter

Using the hydraulic model, you can process a significant amount of raw materials in the shortest possible time. The apparatus is operated by an engine and hydraulic equipment.

When assembling such a model, it is worth considering some features:

• arrangement of logs vertically or horizontally;
• allowable sizes;
• dimensions of the cylinder and features of the motor, which affect the power of cracking of raw materials;
• motor power.

It is more difficult to build such an assembly than a screw product. This device has a higher performance, it can be used not only for domestic purposes, but also commercial.

Nuances of the rack variant

In the rack and pinion device, the cleaver is fixed to the rail, which is moved by means of a gear transmission. A log is placed between the thrust device and the cleaver. The split of the log is performed by pressing on a special handle of the equipment. After that, the gears are firmly engaged, and the rail with the cleaver moves forward to the log.

Reverse movement shifts the cleaver to its original position, and the chopped log is removed. Such a device operates from an electric motor and does not require complicated maintenance.

For the rack unit, the following parameters are considered important:

• possible blade length;
• a kind of cleaver;
• the force that is applied to the workpiece.

Comment

Tool selection specialist "AllInstruments.ru"

"A rack splitter can be purchased factory-fitted. Cone or screw models are not offered in the assembly. Separately, you can find a steel cone, and pick up the remaining parts from improvised means.

Step-by-step instructions: assembly features

At home, you can assemble any wood splitter yourself: drawings, photos, instructions will help to do it right. Each model requires a separate approach.

How to assemble a rack splitter with your own hands: visual drawings, instructions and photos

The description shows that the rack structure can be mounted with your own hands. To do this, adhere to certain recommendations and the sequence of work:

Picture	Work stages
	Drawing selection.
	Preparation of necessary materials.
	Assembly of the bed. An important element is the supporting frame, it is made of a channel, an I-beam or a profile pipe.
	Installation of structural parts. The push mechanism is being installed. You can install additional parts:, a protective sleeve.
	The cleaver should be selected four-pronged.

The rack unit is better equipped with a horizontal laying device, which is made in the form of a gutter.

DIY installation features of a hydraulic wood splitter: simple instructions, drawings and photos

The assembly of the hydraulic model is difficult due to the mechanism. You will need to find an oil tank, a special cylinder, a fluid flow control unit and.

First of all, the frame is made. It is better to mount it on wheels or chassis in order to move the device to the right place. The main hydraulic part is attached to the frame. Instead of a knife, a conical wedge adapts, which moves to the log with the help of a central screw.

Greater performance is characterized by splitters with engines. For their installation, a hydraulic cylinder, an oil tank, a control unit and an electric motor are required. A similar device works faster than a jack mechanism. This requires less effort.

Using the control button, a command is transmitted to the dispenser for supplying fluid to the cylinder cavity. As a result of this, the stubborn heel moves in the right direction.

Such a design does not have a high speed of operation, but differs in certain convenience.

Helpful information! Most often, the hydraulic installation is taken from the tractor. A gasoline engine is also used.

How to build a model of a screw splitter yourself: drawings

It is easiest to assemble a screw assembly yourself. To do this, you need to buy a screw cone for a splitter. You will also need a powerful, sturdy bed, lowering gear and shaft.

First of all, the engine and gearbox are mounted on the bed. A cone is attached to the shaft, and the mechanism itself is connected to a reduction gear with a motor. When assembling, important points to consider:

• the nozzle cannot be mounted directly to the motor;
• if there are no skills of an electrician, then a highly qualified specialist should do the electrical mechanisms;
• belt and chain drives are protected by a special casing;
• the minimum speed of rotation of the cleaver is 250-300 rpm.

This type of wood splitter works with a rotating metal cone, splitting logs due to a special thread. When assembling a screw model with a cone-shaped cleaver, it is necessary to choose the right cone depending on the logs used. The base for the device has the form of a working platform with a fixed splitting shaft. A keel is welded to the table, avoiding particles falling under the rotating mechanism. Power supports are mounted, and the cleaver is installed in the working position. Then the engine is connected.

The model of a splitter with an engine from is very popular. Three types of motors can be used: asynchronous, collector or electronically controlled. The most common option are asynchronous motors. In older models, there is a separate winding for starting.

For some, chopping wood is an old Russian pastime. And in many regions of vast Russia, this is a way to survive and not freeze in the winter. And in more civilized regions, in the country there are stoves and fireplaces. Buying ready-made firewood - you save time, but not money.

Therefore, under a canopy in many firewood lie sawn logs, and wait for the owner with an ax.

To facilitate this troublesome occupation, the Russian "lefthanders" began to make a wood splitter with their own hands. Such devices are also sold in stores, but 90% of rural residents with stove heating use homemade appliances.

Types of log splitters

Homemade hydraulic splitter

The principle of operation - the pusher, driven by a hydraulic actuator, feeds the log to the wedge system. A compressor is required for operation. It can be electric or assembled by internal combustion. The design is efficient and reliable enough, since there are few mechanical parts. Only the hydraulics themselves need maintenance.

Hydraulic wood splitter

Making it yourself is quite problematic, except that you can get the hydraulic drive from decommissioned agricultural equipment.

The video shows an example of the work of a homemade splitter. As you can see from the video, there is nothing super complicated in its design. The main hydraulic cylinder from the screw of the combine harvester is a stroke of 50 cm.

The pusher is set in motion by a pair of "gear rack", the mechanism is clear from the illustration. The drive can be electric or gasoline. The torque from the shaft of the electric motor with the help of a gearbox is amplified many times.

With the help of the lever, the gear rack is pressed against the rotating traction gear, feeding the pusher onto the log. Then the spring returns the mechanism to its original position. Such a wood splitter is not so powerful, in comparison with a hydraulic one.

However, for home use, it is quite suitable. The cost of the device is quite affordable. The disadvantage is that the working gear wears out quickly and the steam needs to be replaced.
Such a device can be made with your own hands.

In this video clip, a self-made rack splitter with a belt drive is presented. Nothing sophisticated, a simple and effective design performance, which is higher than that of a hydraulic splitter.

Screw (cone) splitter

Homemade screw splitter

The most popular design of this device. Available for sale in various sizes and price categories. The principle of operation is simple - the log is fed to a rotating cone, made in the form of an Archimedean gimlet.

It is more pleasant for a physically developed person to chop wood rather than a burden. And, of course, useful: this lesson harmoniously loads all muscle groups. But - which is too much, it is not sensible. If chopping wood is exhausting and / or does not leave forces on other household chores, then a splitter on the farm, of course, is needed. However, it is hardly advisable to choose a prototype according to the technical features of well-known industrial products, if only because there are dozens of varieties of their designs and the use of each requires safety measures that are far from always possible at home. Therefore, to make a splitter with your own hands, you must first determine for what purpose it is needed:

1. For the regular preparation of a large amount of firewood for heating a large house in a harsh climate;
2. The same, but the house is small and / or located in a place with mild winters, i.e. firewood is required a little;
3. For irregular preparation of firewood as an additional fuel (e.g. coal) or for heating utility rooms;
4. For occasional preparation of firewood for decorative heat engineering devices (e.g. a fireplace) or for heating a winter weekend cottage.

Beat or crush?

Cleavage of churaks is considered a dangerous production process: a disc that has turned out of the machine can flatten a person, and flown off chips will pierce him through. It is impossible to completely exclude abnormal situations when chopping wild wood - in this respect, the material is far from completely predictable. As a result, some types of technical classification of devices for splitting raw wood must be borne in mind in order to make a splitter that is safe enough in everyday life. Namely - he shock action or push:

• Mechanized shock splitters with an intermediate energy storage device are highly efficient, economical, and almost completely relieve the operator of muscular effort, but are structurally complex and are the most dangerous to operate. Cope with any churak, including with butt ridges of elm and larch.
• The same, manual without a mechanical energy accumulator - non-volatile, cheap, structurally simple. They can be used in push mode and thus split svilovatye and dull churaks up to 25-30 cm long. Less muscular effort is required, and work safety is higher than with manual chopping with a chopper on the block. Inefficient; suitable for occasional and occasional preparation of firewood.
• Push splitters driven by an internal combustion engine or electric motor are quite expensive (see below). The muscular efforts of the operator are also almost completely eliminated. Productivity is sufficient for regular supply of wood at home up to 200-300 square meters. m in winter with frosts up to –40 and below. Security is achievable as high as possible for this class of devices. Disadvantages - the complexity of the design and a rather large energy consumption in the form of electricity or liquid fuel.

Note: Churak (forestry term) - an untreated forest without a butt or crown, or part of it. The use of colloquial synonyms for chump, chump and chock is certainly legitimate if there are no differences in context.

Why not beat

In mechanical impact wood choppers, a relatively weak engine spins the flywheel through the fluid coupling. Thus, the engine runs almost all the time at optimal speeds and consumes a minimum of fuel / electricity. Then, with the flywheel, a crank with a pusher is introduced into engagement (hydraulic or friction), which feeds the churk to the chopping knife. The impact force is colossal: more than energy can be “pumped” into a flywheel with a diameter of 60-80 cm than in a 100 kg aerial bomb. Churak actually does not prick, but is cut with a knife in spite of any defects of the tree.

Abroad, where energy and high-quality straight-layer wood are expensive, household mechanical impact wood choppers are produced and are in demand, see the photo at the beginning. There is no import of such devices in the Russian Federation, but industrial ones are finalizing their resources and analogues are not being developed for replacement. The reason is extremely dangerous. Modern composite super-flywheels do not burst, but it is impossible to stop the push from the flywheel and thereby prevent the development of an emergency in a threatening and dangerous situation. Therefore, further in the article, mechanical impact wood splitters with energy storage are not considered.

It can't be easier

The simplest non-volatile manual wood splitter is nothing more than a cleaver ax. If you use it little by little, but regularly, in order to develop a skill and an eye, then it is even safer than mechanical and mechanized ones and more productive than the first ones. Provided that the configuration of the cleaver and ax are optimal and consistent.

The ax ax has gone through a long evolution and continues to improve. On the right in fig. a drawing of an Arrow cleaver, adapted for manual chopping of dull and knotted ridges, is given; on the left - an ax for him (a cleaver on it is mounted with a wedge). With the ax you want, you like to wave the ax or not, but the cleaver itself is still very useful to us, see below.

But also what is not necessary

For several years now, a find of a Finnish farmer has been walking on the Internet: chopping churaki for firewood in a tire, see fig. on right. The good thing is that the chopped chock does not fall apart, but remains stuck in the shell, it is not clear. But something else is clear. If with a conventional chopping firewood to be smeared with a cleaver instead of a chop on the chopping block, the ax will painfully hand over. You can’t even stay on your feet and hurt yourself. But if you miss the same cleaver on the rubber, you can get a butt on the forehead. So do not. The splint splint is a curious thing, but not at all useful.

When you need a lot of firewood

For mass preparation of firewood, push-type wood splitters with a hydraulic or mechanical rack pusher and a stationary working body - a cleaver are used. The pusher shoves the churk on the cleaver, which splits it into 2, 4 or 8 segments, suitable for loading into the furnace of the furnace. In both cases, the feed rate of churak to the cleaver is determined most of all by the properties of wood and is 4-5 cm / s. So that on the reverse stroke of the pusher the engine does not “break the speed” and does not consume too much fuel / electricity, the reverse speed is taken 7-7.5 cm / s. In this case, in the morning you can prepare up to half a ton or more firewood.

Note: do not prick raw freshly chopped churak on segments. For a year they must dry from the ends in a separate section of a woodpile or woodcutter. If wood chocks still oozing with juice are chopped, then the tree will lose up to 15-20% of calorific value during further drying. And you - respectively. money for fuel.

More about security

A homemade wood splitter can be made similar to a factory one with horizontal or vertical feed of churak, see fig .:

Vertical type wood splitters are more compact and allow the use of a stronger U-shaped bed. However, the probability of ejection from a vertical wood splitter of churak, slanting, bovine, curly, crooked and / or with non-parallel saw cuts or its fragments, is much greater than from a horizontal one; side paws here, as they say, for peace of mind. In addition, the operator of the horizontal splitter is normally outside the zone of expansion of the churak parts in an emergency; he can only be hit by a rebound. At the vertical splitter, the debris scattering zone is almost circular and the people around it are directly affected by them with full force. Therefore, it is better to make a wood splitter horizontal and vertical with your own hands from random improvised materials only when there is very little suitable place. A typical case is a stationary electric wood splitter. It is impossible to leave it in the open air according to safety requirements, and a vertical one can be put in a wood shed.

Hydraulic

The hydraulic wood splitter in this segment is the most economical and productive. This is determined by the external characteristic of the hydraulic drive, see below, and by the fact that the hydraulic pump drive motor is operating in a stable mode. The scheme of the device, the appearance and the scheme of the hydraulic drive with one pump are shown in the figure: the drive motor rotates the hydraulic pump, it pumps oil from the tank into the system, and the distributor feeds it into the cavity of the forward and reverse hydraulic cylinders.

A significant drawback is that the owner-operator needs to have skills in working with hydraulic systems and their maintenance. Less essential is the need for periodic replacement of oil, which costs money. Another drawback (in this case, small) is that the motor power is taken both in the forward and reverse motion, therefore, with the availability of accessories (see below), craftsmen sometimes make hydraulic systems with 2 pumps for direct and, low-power, for the return stroke, cm . roller:

Video: homemade hydraulic wood splitter

Note: with your own hands it’s quite possible to make a vertical type hydraulic splitter, see the video below:

Video: vertical type hydraulic splitter

The safety of the hydraulic splitter is average: there is no return spring, and the time for switching to the reverse stroke is quite long - about 0.5 s for the best branded designs. During this period, a “harmful” churak can have time to burst and fly apart, even if the operator is experienced and his reaction is instant.

To do or to buy?

The first thing you need to decide if you already liked the hydraulic breaker - but isn’t it better to buy a ready-made one with a guarantee? A good diesel fuel unit for double splitting of straight-layer churaks up to 20 cm in diameter can be found for up to 20 thousand rubles. A device for splitting chocks up to 30 cm with separate knots and sills for 4 segments (which is optimal for the furnace) with adjustable cleaver height and a log dump (see fig. To the right) will cost up to 25-27 thousand rubles. For a high-performance wood splitter for splitting into 8 segments of knotty and twisted ridges up to 60 cm in diameter, more than 100-120 thousand rubles will have to be laid out.

At the same time, a set of knots for a homemade hydraulic breaker will cost at least 60 thousand rubles. Even if parts of the old hydraulic system are lying in your barn, this is not an option. Firstly, worn out hydraulic components are not repairable. Secondly, the hydraulic cylinders of the special equipment are designed for a higher feed rate than optimal for splitting firewood. Accordingly, the pump will have to be delivered overly productive, and the motor for its drive is obviously more powerful. As a result, either the fuel consumption will be significantly greater, or the emphasis is weaker than that of the factory prototype.

If you still do

Suppose you have or can buy hydraulic components from a mini-excavator or other mini-special equipment at a cheap price in your trash (these are just right). In this case, the hydraulic cylinder is selected (or the performance of the wood splitter is determined) by the splitting force:

• Churak 20 cm in half - 2 tf straight layer; 2.7 tf a bit dull / frizzy.
• Churak 25 cm - 2.3 / 2.7 tf, respectively.
• The same, for 4 segments - 3/4 tf.
• Churak 30 cm into 4 segments - 3.5 / 4.5 tf.
• That is, for 8 segments - 4 / 5.5 tf.
• Churak 40 cm into 8 segments - 5.5 tf / 7 tf.

Then, according to the feed speed of 4 cm / s and the volume of the hydraulic cylinder, the performance of the hydraulic pump is determined and, according to the specification for the hydraulic cylinder, a pressure is selected that is suitable. After that, select the distributor. Then the efficiency of the hydraulic system is set to 75% and the drive motor is selected with the required power with a margin of 5-10%. Additionally, according to the external characteristics of the drive motor, its most economical revolutions are looked at and checked whether they correspond to those of the pump. Hoses, valves, etc. fittings are selected according to the working pressure with a margin (for amateur construction) of at least 50%.

Cleaver

The most crucial part of a makeshift wood splitter is its cleaver. Lovers make it from old truck springs. The quality of the material does not get better, but the spring leaves are slightly curved, which reduces productivity and increases the risk of injury to the product. The best option is the top 1.5-2.5 cm of the head of the old rails. The convicts for their knives really appreciate the bandages of railway wheels and car buffers (they also went through a long cold hardening), but they are less suitable for the splitter cleaver.

The relative position of the cleaver knives is also very important. A horizontal knife protruding forward (on the left in the figure) immediately makes the wood splitter traumatic and most likely, a thin straight-layered pine chura stuck in it. Meet a chock should a vertical knife sharpened on a straight (symmetrical) wedge, pos. 1 in the center. The horizontal knife is 15-20 mm posterior and sharpened on the upper oblique wedge, pos. 2. It is very useful to equip the vertical knife with a pruner from below (item 3 on the left) with a height of approx. 30 mm speakers approx. 20 mm forward. Such a cleaver would be better to split the clumsy churaks, if they are put on the lodgement with the most even side down. The sharpening angles are as follows:

• Vertical knife for soft and / or straight-layer wood (except for birch) - 18 degrees (3 knife thicknesses).
• The same for solid fine-wood and birch - 15 degrees (3.7 knife thickness).
• Horizontal knives - 15 degrees.
• The pruner is 22-25 degrees (2.5-2.7 knife thickness).

Rack and pinion

A rack splitter is cheaper than a hydraulic splitter: a branded splitter can be bought for 8-17 thousand rubles. Its device is shown in fig. - the pusher on the gear rack is fed with a small gear-tribe (or tribe). The gear ratio from the motor to the tribe shaft is calculated using a feed rate of 4 cm / s.

It’s also easier to make a wood splitter with a rack drive with your own hands - the details of the rack jack (old ones can be used) are quite suitable. In operation, the log splitter is also simpler: maintenance for the hydraulic system is completely eliminated. Its safety is greatest: it is enough to release the lever of the pinch roller (or throw it reflexively with a fright), as the return spring will raise the rail over the tribe and throw it back.

The main drawback of the rack splitter is the poor external characteristic in this case (pos. P in the figure below): when the feed speed approaches zero, the stop increases sharply, and then also drops sharply to zero. That is, if there is a defect in the churak, in which the cleaver gets stuck, the drive will severely tear (which may cause it to break), and then the tribe's effort will be spent on pushing the rail away from itself, and not pushing it forward. It looks like this: the feed lever (if not released) painfully beats in the hand, the mechanism crackles, trembles, and may break. The initial section of the external characteristic of the hydraulic actuator is soft: the greatest emphasis is created at zero feed rate. If a very stubborn churk gets caught by a hydraulic digger, he will also push him stubbornly and shove him to a cleaver; maybe a split.

The first consequence of the stiffness of the initial branch of the external characteristics of the rack splitter is that a large motor power is needed. Shift the values \u200b\u200bof the splitting force for the hydraulic drive in the list above by one position, and throw 40 cm churuk and 2 / 2.7 tf for the 20-cm drive - get the initial data for calculating the rack drive; however, its efficiency can be taken 0.85. The second - an internal defect in a block of wood that can inhibit the cleaver, may also be trapped in the cleft. As a result, the rack drive is more suitable for low-performance manual mechanical splitters (see below) with an adaptive external characteristic of the “motor” - our muscles.

Note: the poor external performance of the rack drive can be improved to some extent by chain transmission from the motor to the drive shaft, see below.

When you need less firewood

For splitting churaks for firewood in a milder climate or for heating a small structure, a screw splitter is most suitable. Its performance is low; using it requires a certain skill and fairly strong hands. But, contrary to popular belief, a screw splitter is not very sensitive to defects of the churak, because his working body pricks a tree, screwing into it and sawing. As a result of this, a screw splitter is economical: with a 2.5-3 kW motor it can chop churaks up to 40 cm in diameter and 60 cm in height; with a motor from the washing machine - more or less straightforward with a diameter of up to 20-25 cm.

Note: Many people make screw splitter with motors from the washers, especially since the rotational speed is suitable, see below. But in this case, you do not need to install a cleaver directly on the engine shaft - from lateral forces, the motor case not designed for them will soon lead, or if it is silumin, it will crack. The cleaver must be planted on the drive shaft in the bearings, and connected to the motor shaft with a damping gear or clutch, e.g. from a piece of dyurite hose.

The device of a screw splitter is shown on the left in fig. Working body - conical screw with shaped persistent left-hand thread; rotation speed 150-1500 rpm (optimally 250-400). Why is the thread left? Mostly because most people are right handed and have a stronger right hand; if you are left-handed, then it will be much more convenient and safer to work with a right-handed screw cleaver.

Churak is fed vertically to a screw cleaver, otherwise the situation shown in the lower right in Fig. Churak necessarily sticks with his hands (top right), so a screw splitter is a potentially dangerous device. The right hand, stronger and more dexterous (the left-handed one has the left one) keeps the remainder of the churak from being pulled by the cleaver under itself (the wedge stop is important in this regard, see below), which inevitably causes permanent damage to the mechanism and almost always injuries to the operator. Therefore, logs need to be chipped off from that part of the block that is under the left hand (with the left-handed right), and make sure that there is not too much left under the right (left) one. If a cleaver stumbles in a mass of wood on a viscous place (knot, swill), it can, as it were, wind a chura on itself and bend down; prevents a similar situation a wedge emphasis under a cleaver.

Design features

Safety, performance and ease of use of a wood splitter with the same motor strongly depend on a rational design and its correct execution of such structural components as a wedge stop, a drive mechanism, a drive shaft and its bearings. The efficiency of the screw splitter is more affected by the configuration of the cleaver.

Emphasis

Wedge emphasis is a critical element of the whole structure. Its absence or improper execution not only makes the wood splitter dangerous, but also reduces its performance, reliability and capabilities: a chuker with an incorrect focus takes smaller, slower ones, and he wears out faster and more often breaks.

Leaving the cleaver high hanging without a lower stop, and even with the drive shaft, which is held only in the bearings (on the left in the figure) is a gross mistake. There are more than enough opportunities to pull a piece of wood under you and tear yourself out of weak supports together with a bent shaft near the cleaver, and it is difficult to split the churak, biting into it high above the lower saw cut. But a simple steel plate instead of an abutment (in the center) is no better: with the lateral forces that arise when splitting, it’s all the same, 4 mm steel or cardboard.

The correct wedge stop of a screw splitter is a massive all-metal one, securely attached to a strong frame, on the right. The length of the stop is such that the splitter nose is free on 1/3-1 / 2 of the length of the threaded part. The width of the stop along its entire length is equal to the diameter of the cleaver in a given section minus 3-4 thread heights, see below. The gap between the emphasis and the shank of the cleaver is not more than 1.2-2 mm; better if you can make a gap of 0.5-0.7 mm; let the cleaver first rubs a little against the emphasis, that's okay, but it will last a long and reliable time. Stop height approx. 2/3 of the diameter of the shank of the cleaver; for 75 mm in the range of 50-60 mm.

The essence of such an emphasis is that grabbing and pulling the churak at the beginning of the working stroke is easily parried by hands. When the cleaver is screwed enough into the tree, you can’t hold on to the grasped churk by your hand. But in this case, the tightened part of the bottom will hit the sidewall of the stop; perhaps split off and fly off. The grip on the part of the churak under the right hand will weaken and will not turn the cleaver up, and the grip on the left side will press it against the stop. If the drive and the drive shaft cage are made correctly, the mechanism will stop and the situation will not develop into a threatening one.

Drive unit

The external characteristic of a screw splitter has an unpleasant feature, similar to that of a rack splitter - zero threading at zero rotation. Only here it is not the rail that is repelled by the tribe, but the cleaver pulls the churk under itself. At the same time, if a cleaver comes across a sticky obstacle in a tree, in most cases it is enough for him to break through at first, then he will go to saw a knot or swill, albeit more slowly. The inertia of the drive can help in this case: for a moment, the splitter, as it were, turns into a mechanical shock.

The inertia of rotation is ensured by a belt drive with a rather massive driven pulley, on the left in the figure, but without additional safety elements (see below), this decision is doubtful: if the “plug” is not broken, and the flywheel pulley is heavy, then the whole mechanism may break and a dangerous situation arises. The chain drive is much better in this respect, on the right in fig. The chain itself is heavy, and because of the backlash in the joints of its links, one strong enough long jerk is divided into a number of sharp frequent ones, and the cleaver overcomes the “plug” more easily. Compare: what is the best way to drive a nail into a wall without bending - to sweep a nail once again or with frequent small blows?

Drive shaft support

The inertia of the chain is still small, and if clumsy chocks have to be chopped, it is advisable to supply the wood splitter with a mechanical energy storage device in the form of a massive driven belt drive pulley. The safety of the device is then ensured by introducing a deliberately weak link into the shaft support structure.

An example of such a solution is given in Fig. on right. The weak link here is a pair of cotter pin - cotter pin (pos. 1 and 2). Additionally, the friction clutch of the pulley 5 through the thick washer 3. The drive shaft 10 is of a simple configuration, and conventional ball bearings 4 (better yet self-aligning) are fixed by cup spacers 6 and 8 between the bearing pins and the rear pin and the pulley. The covers 7 are pressed into the housing 8, and the entire support assembly is attached to the bed in any convenient way.

The cotter pin is not completely clewed; enough 1-2 cotter pins (selected by experience). The nut is normal right. If the flywheel jerk did not help the cleaver to overcome the congestion, the cotter pin is cut off, the nut is unscrewed and the cleaver stops. The operator expresses himself as best he can, but nothing bad happened, and the breakdown is easily fixed.

Carrot screw

So they call the working body of a screw splitter for external resemblance to a root crop. A wood splitter carrot also saws wood, so chopping wood with a screw gives a lot of sawdust, see fig. If a barn or a house is heated with a stove on sawdust (bubafon, etc., this can be useful. But actually for a season, up to 10-12% of fuel in the dust is undesirable .. To help the case in this case, you can change the thread profile of the screw cleaver.

Drawings of 2 variants of a carrot cleaver for a screw splitter are given on the trail. rice; the landing dimensions are the same, under the shank of the drive shaft in the drawing above.

On the left is the usual design with a sawtooth profile carving: sawdust and small wood chips give quite a lot, it does not matter to overcome wood defects, it often gets stuck in dense small-layer wood. On the right is a screw cleaver with a specially profiled thread, sawing a little tree, but well overcome its defects. In addition, a special thread profiling made it possible to increase the angle at the top of the cone from 19.85 to 26 degrees. The working body has become shorter; therefore, one and the same churuk will split faster. In addition, special thread clings weaker to a tree and it is safer to work with such a cleaver. For cutting special threads you will need a shaped cutter, but both one and the other screw cleaver can be made with your own hands on a desktop lathe, see video:

Video: making a “carrot” for a wood splitter in a garage

When you need a little firewood

In the southern regions and / or for the heating of utility rooms, little firewood is required. It would be possible for a normal peasant to prick them by hand effortlessly, and then let the missus only try not to give the stopar for dinner. But - the problem: the right swing. Without it, waving a cleaver is exhausting and dangerous, and working out a swing for splitting firewood is no easier than using knives; see, for example, a fighter chopping wood in Kurosawa's “Seven Samurai”.

Again, a manual mechanical splitter, contrary to popular belief, doesn’t save little or no muscle effort when chopping wood, but it allows you to safely produce it without owning the swing of a lumberjack. Its additional advantage is that it can work both in gravitational-inertial and in push mode. The latter allows you to slowly, slowly, but to cope with the most stubborn churks of almost any diameter. The main thing is that their saw cuts are parallel and approximately perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the block, otherwise it will be much more dangerous to work.

The device of a manual mechanical splitter is shown in Fig. The lever arm is taken from 1.5 m; the bigger, the better. The load - depending on its strength, 10-50 kg. If the cleaver is fixed motionless, this splitter works only as an inertia one: the lever is lifted by the handle and lowered to the churk with force. If the cleaver can be moved along the lever, then the splitter can also be push; the lever arm is lengthened with a pipe worn on the handle.

There are a number of significant nuances in the design of a manual manual splitter (shown by arrows on the right in the figure). The first is the cleaver. A simple wedge from a rail trim is ineffective and bites in a tree. Such a wood splitter works much better with Strela cleaver (see above), especially since it can be bought cheaply ready. The second is the spring; it is the most traumatic element in this design. The spring force is needed so that the free lever with the cleaver in its extreme distant position is held approximately horizontally. It is necessary to fix the spring on the heels so that it does not come off them with a full swing of the lever; it’s better to skip the swinging guide into the spring.

And the last - if the lever splitter is not fixed rigidly to the supporting area, then its front legs must be made at least as long as the maximum lever arm + double diameter of the largest churak. How to make a lever splitter with advanced kinematics yourself, see next. video:

Video: spring firewood cleaver

Note: do not make a mechanical splitter with a cleaver sliding on a support, see fig. above right. According to the butt of the cleaver, you need to peel with a sledgehammer, and still he wedges all the time.

When firewood helps

The butt parts of the woods and, especially, stumps from uprooting, as you know, give, burning, a lot of heat. You can buy them for firewood inexpensively, and in Russia in some places it’s just for pickup: for cellulose, fiber for MDF and technical wood for OSB, chipboard and fiberboard, they are of little use. But to split such a clumsy log block into wood for firewood is not so simple. However, for the preparation at home of a small amount of wood fuel additional to the main fuel, this task, which woodworking specialists are still struggling with, is quite solvable.

How? It is necessary to make a conical splitter: it does not split the churk by force, but forces it to crack as it is most convenient for it. If the workpiece is not more than 60 cm in diameter, then the resulting logs will be placed in the furnace of the furnace. Their transverse dimensions are not optimal for the most economical combustion, but also waste fuel.

The device of the conical splitter is shown in Fig. on right. The diameter of the base of the cone is 80-150 mm, depending on the largest size of the available churaks. The angle at the apex is 15 degrees for a shallow layer and 18 degrees for a straight layer tree. Note 1/3 of the height of the cone from the base, it is replaced by a solution angle of 22 and 25-30 degrees, respectively. The jack is better to apply rack and pinion. The fact is that the jack is an emergency device that is not designed for frequent regular use. The rack jack has nowhere to simplify further, but the hydraulic jack in the wood splitter will flow pretty soon. For comparison: a stamping hydraulic press, developing the same effort, this solid structure is more than a ton in weight.

Another nuance: the adjusting rod of the cone splitter is better to make working. To do this, it is made of a steel bar St45 or more durable with a diameter of 24 mm. The trapezoidal thread is cut (parts can be used from an unusable gas or water main valve). The steering wheel is replaced by a lever collar. Then, together with an assistant, it will be possible to split the thickest, most infamous of the vilest churks. Frame - channels from 150 mm and pipes from 60x4.

When firewood is needed sometimes

That is, for inserting a decorative fireplace or for temporary heating with improvised waste fuel; e.g. in the country. Abroad, for fuel for fireplaces, churaks of low-value soft wood are sold: poplar, aspen, willow, etc. And to them are wood choppers like that in pos. 1 pic. below. The core of marketing promotion - the ridges on the knife immediately give a splinter for kindling. But in general, the idea is strange: a churk, which can be split with a gentle blow of an ax, is put in a clip and several times it is severely hit with a sledgehammer. True, chopping firewood is, on the contrary, safer. Maybe there it is relevant. In America, there is a saying (translated into Russian): "If the average American, in a hurry to get to work, does not slip and does not turn his neck in his soul, then he will cut his throat while shaving."

A saber splitter (pos. 2) is much more convenient and not more dangerous. He acts according to a well-known saying: the loafer was asked - why did he chop wood sitting? "And I tried lying - uncomfortable." Reciprocating wood splitter can be attached to the wall and floor. Shoulder of the cutting lever from 0.8 m for soft straight-layered wood; for birch and pine from 1.2 m.

Split oak saber splitter, etc. or wood of fruit trees is already difficult and not always obtained. Therefore, in the country house, visited in the cold season, the foot lever splitter (item 3) will not interfere: it copes with the churaks of any tree with a diameter of up to 25-30 cm; True, performance is low. In this splitter, the sliding stop pulls the earring (shown by the arrow) when depressing the pedal. The swinging lodgement is raised until the churk fits in it, then released and pressed on the pedal until the piece of wood splits.

The day after chopping wood, even if health allows you to load yourself with such physical activities, you feel, to put it mildly, not really. Everyone who has chopped firewood at least once remembers this feeling - his hands do not rise, his back splits. What can I say, when you have to cook for the winter! Before the start of the season, it is necessary to chop at least 5-6 cubic meters of logs. Not everyone has helpers ready to help out and do the hard work for you. For such cases, a separate tool for chopping firewood with a foot pedal has long been invented. It significantly reduces the load on the back and arms, while increasing labor productivity. Is it possible to make such a tool with your own hands, what you need to know about the design of the cleaver and the nuances of its use, we will tell you in this review about the site.

The basis of any type of wood splitter: mechanical, electrical, gasoline - is the same principle. They all consist of a cleaver, with a sharp blade sharpened at about 30˚, and a mechanism that sets it in motion. Moreover, the methods for creating this force can be different: piston thrust, and maybe physical effort created by man. By the way, manual-powered mechanical splitters also exist.

Such a cleaver belongs to the simplest of devices designed for mechanical chopping of firewood. Let's consider all variations of devices in more detail.

Note! The weight of the “head” of a traditional hand cleaver usually starts with three kg.

Mechanical devices for chopping firewood: from simple attachments to lever models

Most often in home workshops they use two types of mechanical wood splitter: spring and gear. Consider the designs of their main ones to decide which device will be easier to make at home.

Advice! For some types of work, you can do with a conventional wood chipper. Crushers usually consist of a protective casing, a demarcation strip, a sieve, a case, and are most often equipped with an electric drive.

So, consider the types of mechanical splitter:

• Spring loaded. The principle of operation is based on the return energy of a compressed spring. Usually there is a pedal or lever. Working with such a mechanism requires the physical efforts of a person.

The version of the cleaver in the photo consists of a metal frame. The design must be provided with supports. The arrow acts as a lever, the system is mounted on a hinge. It, as can be seen in the photo, rests on a spring, which is sandwiched between two cups. On the other side of the lever is a cleaver and a handle.

Important! The design of the frame must be such as to prevent possible tipping of the cleaver.

This design has several advantages:

• does not require connection to electricity;
• simplicity of construction;
• available materials;
• allows you to chop logs of different sizes.

Among the minuses is the mandatory monitoring of the state of the cleaver fastener, an accurate calculation of the length of the lever mechanism. Otherwise, you may be injured.

Let us return to the discussion of types of mechanical splitter. So, the second type remains.

• Gearbox. In this case, the cleaver is driven by a gear and a gear. Sometimes this type of wood splitter is called rack and pinion, as part of its mechanism is a long rail equipped with a gear or worm gear.

Note! A splitter can be with two different types of blades: flat. It cuts log into 2 parts and cruciform. In this case, the log is decomposed into 4 parts.

Mechanical chopping wood is compact. Usually, home craftsmen prefer foot-operated appliances. They are safer.

Electric Firewood Cleaver

Electric breakers are more advanced units. They can be both vertical and horizontal. Most often they work with a cone nozzle, which is simply drilled into a log. It makes sense to use such aggregates for large volumes of wood harvesting.

The safest are vertical wood splitters. However, despite all the convenience, there is one caveat, the machines operate on a voltage of 320 volts. In addition, any unit requires a certain skill. It is important to ensure the free movement of all mechanisms, to carry out regular maintenance to prevent jamming and damage to the device.

Gasoline units for chopping firewood: features of use

Even more professional devices are considered working on gasoline. Such equipment is at logging enterprises. The operator is only required to control the progress of the work. Such devices are not suitable for installation in. They are quite dimensional and noisy.

What is attractive about leg-driven firewood choppers

The mechanisms for chopping firewood with a foot drive are ideal for home, seasonal logging. They can easily split chocks of medium diameter and free your back from overloads.

If we talk about mechanical models of wood splitters, then it is almost impossible to injure them. Such a tool is intuitively easy to use and suitable even for older people, in fact, even a teenager can cope with it.

Important! The smaller the diameter of the cleaver, the easier it will be to work with the mechanism. However, remember that logs should be selected exclusively for the working diameter of the unit.

The device can be easily folded, does not take up much space, is suitable for use on or. If necessary, you can simply put it in the barn.

Note! On average, the weight of a mechanical foot cleaver is between 8 and 10 kg. It is made mainly of durable steel.

Overview of the most popular models for chopping firewood

You can buy a tool for chopping firewood in specialized stores of special equipment or household goods. Usually they are not brought in large quantities, so it is better to speak with a store representative in advance to determine if a device is available.

Most often, Russian consumers praise the Logmaster brand special tool.

Logmaster mechanical wood splitter

Wood splitters of this series are of high build quality and amazing performance.

Briefly about the characteristics:

• weight - 9.5 kg;
• drive type - foot;
• working effort - 1200 kg;
• price - from 4 000 rubles.

Logmaster mechanical wood splitter

Yardworks ZIGZAG Mechanical Wood Splitter

The mechanical wood splitter ZIGZAG is one of the lightest firewood choppers. Provides a simple and quick splitting of logs without. Pressing the foot pedal on a steel wedge creates a pressure of 1200 kg. Dimensions of the processed log: diameter up to 25 mm, length 45 mm. The cost of this model is 4900 rubles.

Yardworks ZIGZAG Mechanical Wood Splitter

Hecht 6 cleaver with foot drive of the popular manufacturer of utility equipment and special tools Hecht

A convenient tool for those cases when you urgently need to prepare firewood. All elements are made of hardened steel.

According to consumer reviews, the device is practically trouble-free and can even cope with raw firewood. However, remember, it can lead to rotting of the wood, in addition, such canvases greatly lose volume as they dry.

Hecht 6 Foot Splitter

How to make a homemade hydraulic wood splitter: drawing and walkthrough

Simple schemes for making a wood splitter with your own hands can be found on the Internet. The easiest way to create a spring mechanism. Here are some schemes (both the entire unit and the cleaver) that may occur in operation.

However, many craftsmen set themselves an even more difficult task - to create a hydraulic wood splitter. We will help with this. We offer you a review photo-instruction for the manufacture of such a unit.

Advice! The feed rate to the blade of a hydraulic splitter is up to 5 cm / s.

After you have decided on the drawing, studied the photo of the hydraulic wood splitter with your own hands, a small overview photo instruction will come in handy:

Illustration	Action description
	The first stage is the manufacture of a bed. In our case, the rear suspension was taken from a Volkswagen Golf car. The device turned out to be mobile.
	On top of the base as guides are welded 2 U-shaped channels. In some cases, metal corners can also be used to strengthen the frame.
	A platform is welded to the hanger at the back, on which the engine and other working elements are located. Uninterrupted operation of the machine will be ensured by an oil pump.
	The knife has a very interesting design. He is able to cut logs into 4 flat parts. The nozzle may be removable.
	The device has a universal device and allows you to quickly cope with a large number of firewood. In addition, it can be translated from place to place.

And if you want to know more details about the hydraulic cutter for firewood, watch this video.

A wood splitter helps in the household when harvesting firewood. A sufficient amount of time is wasted on chopping firewood and setting to dry. There are several types of mechanical splitter that allow you to not apply much physical effort during work.

Mechanical splitter

A small amount of work can be done using a simple device. Drovokol differs in a simple design and possible production from any material at hand. The productivity of this device is low, but it makes it possible to safely do the work of harvesting firewood with your own hands. There are some sophisticated firewood choppers that can be made in the household.

The easiest and easiest option for assembling a wood splitter with your own hands is similar in design to a well crane. The racks are connected by a hinge method; instead of a container, handles with a cutter are installed. With this mechanism, work occurs due to physical strength. Assembly can be made from any means at hand, you will need corners and several pipes, you can use a broken ax as a cutter.

A self-made mechanical cleaver has a number of disadvantages. For a more simplified process, an elongated lever should be used, which affects the dimensions of the mechanism. The most common option is to install a lever system with a heavier cleaver. Due to the increased mass, the structure is easiest to pour concrete into the ground. This device is more compact, more efficient than its competitor.

Firewood classification

Harvesting firewood on the farm is a frequent business, it requires a lot of effort. Before making a home-made device for chopping wood with your own hands, you need to determine the volumes and purpose of the device. The proposed equipment is divided into main categories:

• Mechanical device - the presence of an engine, as a drive for a screw or hydraulics, electric and spring-based volatile firewood.
• Design features - rack, vertical, cone, horizontal and so on, there are many designs for splitting firewood.
• The principles of operation can be hydraulic or pneumatic, in the form of a screw.

The cheapest construction option is a mechanical cleaver, consisting of a stand and a support table. For more complex designs, such as a conical splitter, you will need equipment to connect the engine and the rotary element itself. This machine will significantly increase productivity compared to a mechanical device.

Using the appropriate drawings, it is possible to make a more complex rack structure with your own hands. The principle of operation is based on the conversion of rotational energy into translational motion, on the basis of this, additional materials for manufacturing will be needed.

Vertical inertial splitter

Manual vertical wood splitter, the mechanism of which consists of a metal pipe connected by a hinge to a support, contributes to the quick splitting of firewood. A cutting element for splitting is installed at the end of the pipe, reinforcing the force of the load.

Home-made of this type of wood splitter works by abruptly lowering the pipe down, which, under the influence of the load, chop wood. The advantage of the machine is the availability of composite materials, which can be found at your own or neighboring garage.

The disadvantage is the increased weight of the cutting device, for a long time a person will not be able to work out due to fatigue.

Electric splitter

Hand tools and mechanical devices help you cope with everyday tasks. However, if mass production of firewood is required, it will not be easy to make a large quantity with a mechanical splitter, due to the physical fatigue of a person. For an easier and faster process, it is possible to use electric motors on the design of wood splitters. It is more difficult to make an electric wood splitter with your own hands, but if you correctly adjust the parts according to the drawings, it is possible to achieve a design that does not differ from those sold on the market.

Conical screw

The most simple to manufacture, reliable design is a self-made screw splitter. Two varieties are used; they differ only in the presence of thread on the rotating element. Crashing ingots occurs due to cutting into its middle, with larger ones, the edges first break off, then the middle.

Before assembling the structure, it is necessary to catch the components. The splitting part should be turned according to the drawing of the conical splitter. If you use the tool without a thread, you will have to apply sufficient force when splitting the firewood. The threaded tip bites into the wood, thereby making the process easier. The manufacture of the tip is carried out on a lathe with certain parameters. Typically, such work is ordered in a turning workshop, but if you have experience and equipment, it is possible to make a fixture for a cone splitter with your own hands.

The electric motor for operation must be selected according to the power parameters, the number of revolutions. Direct connection is possible if the motor parameters are as follows:

• The shaft rotational speed is 300-500 rpm, a smaller indicator will be too small for operation, helps to delay the process, and a larger number of revolutions is dangerous, as it can tear the workpiece out of hand.
• Engine power not less than 2 kW, for uninterrupted operation of the engine with hardwoods.

There are times when it is impossible to find an engine with identical parameters. Then it is necessary to install a gearbox or belt drive. Installation of additional equipment allows you to use the engine with the necessary parameters. The transmission can also be of a chain type, it is more reliable, but emits increased noise during operation.

Hydraulic splitter

Hydraulic models are heavier to manufacture. For manufacturing, you need a hydraulic splitter scheme, when assembling, you need to take into account many parameters:

• The location of the ingot can be horizontal or vertical, depending on the type of material.
• The dimensions of the unit are selected for the average dimensions of the workpieces.
• The size of the hydraulic cylinder and drive power depend on the strength of the log splitting.

Making a hydraulic wood splitter with your own hands is a little harder than the rest. Distinctive features are uniform details at the exit, speed of a split. The tool can be used both for domestic purposes and in small-scale production of firewood for sale on the market. The force applied during the process is great, so the material in the manufacture of a hydraulic wood splitter with its own hands should have a sufficient thickness. Cutting knives are installed in the form of a square or asterisk for cutting pigs into several parts in one process.

Mechanical spring cleaver

A modified version of the manual cleaver is a mechanical spring device. The splitter acts on the principle of centrifugal force, the main purpose of the design is to hold the cleaver with an impressive mass at the end of the cycle. The spring must be made movable to adjust the force exerted to stop the cleaver. A device made by yourself should have the appropriate height for a person, for the smallest loads.

The manufacture of a log clamp is made for safety reasons. The frame mechanism experiences constant loads, so it is necessary to make it of double material. For possible mobility, it is possible to mount the wheels on one side for movement.

Simple mechanic do-it-yourself splitter

A common type of splitter is a rack type mechanism. The principle of operation consists of starting the cycle, after which all elements are coupled, the pusher abuts against the workpiece and the cutting process occurs, by connecting with a knife. To make a homemade splitter, you will need the following elements:

• Drive, commonly used electric motor. In places of lack of electricity, it is possible to use an engine powered by combustible mixtures.
• The transmission pulley on the shaft, the transmission is connected by a belt.
• The gear wheel is located on the end of the secondary shaft.
• Deck frame, cutting knife, control lever.

The engine must be selected with a large margin of power. Do-it-yourself rack-type splitter can be used with all types of wood. Safety control, engine load is achieved through improved transmission and smoothness of effort.

Also, a mechanical wood splitter has a simple design with a screw design. The least amount of manufacturing costs makes it indispensable in the household. I can make a tool with my own hands. I probably have an old electric motor, a prepared conical screw, basic knowledge in electrics to connect the motor to the starting device.

How to make a wood splitter mobile

A mobile splitter is needed in situations where the device needs to be moved a long distance. To make the wood splitter mobile give the possibility of attached wheels.

The weight of the manufactured structure should be taken into account, the axle load should be calculated.

For safe operation, it is necessary to provide for locking the wheels or to use the footrests while using the tool.

How to choose a wood splitter product features

The choice of device model depends on the intended use. A self-made tool will turn out to be a budget option, and bought on the market will save time and has a guarantee. The price of powerful models of wood splitters in stores can be up to 100 thousand rubles.

Self-made tools can be used for their intended purpose. The ability to add or remove functions can significantly save the budget during production. The only major difference will be the appearance, since a self-made device is not so neat and harmonious.

For use in production or commercial purposes, the best option would be to purchase a finished unit. There are models on the market with various types of engines and pig cuts.

Advantages and disadvantages of using a splitter

Before making any unit with your own hands, you should ask yourself whether it is so necessary in the household. Buying or making the device yourself will require a lot of financial costs and effort, you need to weigh all the advantages and disadvantages. The advantages of the device include.

1. Physical activity per person. The machine operator only performs loading, controls the process, the main physical work is performed by the splitter mechanism.
2. A device that includes an electric drive will cope with tasks faster than manual work.
3. Convenient use maintains health and physical strength.
Use of wood splitter

Disadvantages during operation are noticeably smaller, but still they are present, like every device.

1. The complex design of some models. For a more even log, the final result uses a hydraulic splitter. To make such a mechanism at home with their own hands is expensive and takes enough time.
2. The high cost of finished designs. Buying a finished wood splitter will save time on manufacturing, but the cost of some models is so high that it does not justify itself during the use process.

It should be understood that for a small area, the purchase of equipment is not advisable. Having a clear purpose and constant implementation of firewood, it is worth thinking about buying or making a wood splitter with your own hands.