Construction of a welded motor boat "Magic"

The site has many articles about building boats from plywood, but there are no detailed articles about building a boat from AMG. Yes, it is not as easy as brewing ferrous metal, but anything is possible. Should I not cook with my father as "assistants" who cooks all his adult life and everything that can be cooked))). Well, I, a person of humanitarian specialty, but very bored with working on the weekend with a jigsaw, a grinder, a saw and a welder (not responsible seams that trust me).

It often happens that there is an opportunity to buy a boat, but there is no boat that you need ... and this drives me to such actions.

I had the idea to build such a boat for a long time. Of all the serial boats that were produced by the Soviet industry, I had almost all of them in use except Sarepta and Crimea 3, but I had the opportunity to just be like these. As a result, the one that would fit me 100% was never, among all that was done by a valiant country.

It was decided to make the boat that I need. Each time I build something, starting from the simplest Jonbot, then North 420, then many ACLs in different sizes and variations, then several boats that I designed myself. As a result, having built each boat, I, having walked on it, realized that I was not satisfied with each, a trifle but not satisfied. I didn't want to put up with this trifle.

I firmly decided that the boat, which I need for my tasks, can only be worked out in detail and made only by myself. Moreover, in addition to all the nuances and details that I needed to take into account in the cockpit of the boat, and this is generally not difficult, doing everything on my own and knowing what you need in the end, I needed the boat to be light, strong, not big (up to 4.5 m.), Seaworthy in its size, not a roll, and most importantly, the boat had to develop the speed of the Yamaha-55 BEDL outboard motor together (80 kg + 110 kg) 65 km / h. That is, the boat that I plan to build should be a little faster than all average boats in the same dimension and power-to-weight ratio, which means I have to tinker with the correct steps, and the correct crinolines that will not allow dolphin, even when the motor is tilted to the position when the steel propeller loses its emphasis. Not an easy task, but a feasible one.

Moreover, I clearly understood that it was the speed that would be the stumbling block, because if the boat did not develop the speed that I needed, its fate would be quickly resolved, in spite of all the efforts the boat would be donated or sold as not meeting all my requirements.

The boat was planned with the following characteristics:

Specifications:

Material - AMG5M sides and bottom 3 mm, small unloaded parts - 2 mm, 2.5 mm, 3 mm.

Overall length - 4.4 m.

Width - 1.65 m

Board height - 0.54 m

Height midships - 0.7 m

Outward deadrise angle on the transom - 17 degrees

Outside deadrise angle at midship - 28 degrees

Transom height - 0.508 m

Carrying capacity - 400 kg

Boat weight - 185 kg.

Once again, having calculated everything, thinking it over, weighing and re-reading the literature on shipbuilding I have, I decided to start!

It was March on the calendar, and the weather in 2014 brought surprises in the form of abnormal heat, which made it possible to start welding earlier than planned.

And so ... let's start, the argon cylinders are filled, connected and ready to go.

Welders both manual and PA are also asking for battle and ready. In the photo there is a TIG without a connected mass and a torch, but it is always ready anyway))).

Especially for the construction of this boat, I purchased an aluminum disc for a cut-off saw. I must say right away that it cuts great and is used for cutting a corner, pipe, box, etc.

I missed one important point. The tools in the photo are just a small part of what is needed when working. You will need "grinders" big and small, a good jigsaw, because we will cut AMG sheet up to 3mm., Good files for a jigsaw on aluminum, of course a drill, a screwdriver and much more.

The bottom sheets are cut and put in the slipway. We boil them from the inside on tacks with a semiautomatic device, so that they do not diverge and during further TIG welding there is no such strong leash from the outside. In the garage where I build the boat, there is one large gate and two doors on different sides. When welding with argon, one thing must be open. There should be no draft. It is important.

We begin to weld the inner set. When welding with a semiautomatic device, AlMg 5 wire 1 mm thick is used. You can take a wire with a smaller diameter (0.8), but since the entire set in the boat has a thickness of 3 mm, then we cook this. The seams themselves on the bottom are often about 15-20 cm apart. The length of the seam is at least 5 cm, naturally, remembering to degrease each seam well with acetone))).

We weld the set. The entire longitudinal set is welded to the bottom, the transverse one rests on it. We do not weld anything from the transverse set to the bottom. The corner is used 40 * 40 * 3, channel 40 * 60 * 40 * 3.

This is how we boil

When the main part of the set is welded in, we begin the installation of the frames pre-bent on the bending machine.

When all the frames are welded into place, you can begin to install the sides. He stood up very evenly, without any gaps.

The second side also fit perfectly

The boards are in place, which means you can do the transom. For the transom, you can bend a channel made of the same sheet material that we use, but knowing that a great motor can be installed on a boat at some point, I use a channel 50 * 80 * 50 * 4. It's hard, but in my opinion, it is necessary to go to the transom! The transom itself is bent on a bending machine, applied, traced, cut out and welded.

Another angle. So far, we are assembling everything on tacks in order to adjust the parts and further reduce metal deformation during TIG welding.

An important point. Crinolines are made in the form of continuation of the bottom and sides and will be sealed, each with a volume of 48 liters. Transom angle 20! Degrees. This will allow the motor to move away from the keel as much as possible and thereby raise it slightly. At the same time, crinolines in this case are not made just like that, but are optimally calculated experimentally, excluding gaps in turns. They will not take water from the propeller. They will not steal either, kilometers contrary to popular belief, this was also tested on the previous buildings. Be it! Their task in the parking lot is not to allow the stern to sink too much, fully compensating for the weight of the engine (they contain 96 liters) and to give the opportunity to squeeze the bow of the boat as much as possible on the go, before the propeller breaks off, but excluding the dolphin. But going out on the water will show everything….

The transom also turned out to fit without gaps, it was long, but necessary.

We begin to weld in the interior fittings. Support under the deck from box 50 * 30 * 3.

We weld the bench previously bent on a bending machine.

We continue to work on the transom, because as we remember, it must withstand any reasonable motor. All materials on the transom with a thickness of 4 mm.

Everything is in its place, although much is still on "tacks"

From this moment the most tedious process begins. You understand that everything, the hull is ready, and you begin to adjust, equip, do ... I lower the deck below the board level by 12 cm, and the fish will not jump out and things, and in general I have long understood that this is much more convenient for me. For myself I do !!!

So it is with the back of the boat. The bench goes into a self-draining recession. You stand on this whole structure and walk freely on it.

We bend the sides, cut out holes in them under the frames, dress them, boil them, and ... already something that looks like a boat. We weld the back part of the top of the sides, including to the back bench, tying everything together.

We boiled the cuddly and the frames.

We mark and weld the redans. First, we boil on tacks and only with a semiautomatic device, otherwise the bottom will inevitably be crooked.

When the redans are in place, the transom is in place, which means that the hull itself in its underwater part is completely ready, and all the necessary rigidity is given to it, you can start boiling with a TIG. We begin to boil ... the AMG5 additive is used for rods with a diameter of 2-3.2 mm, the welding current is 80-120A.

The result so far pleases)))

The current is large, the additive has a maximum diameter (3.2 mm), the seam turns out to be wide and through the mask in the work it is clear that it is boiled for centuries. By the way, out of interest from previous boats, I sawed off a cooked piece and broke it in a vice. AMG burst, but not by welding, because at the junction, the thickness is greater. We do not boil Redans with TIG at this stage.

Turn over and boil the transom with crinolines with a TIG. Crinolines are sealed, but little happens in life. We will also put there extruded polystyrene foam that does not absorb moisture.

We close the crinolines, they still have to go through the TIG and build up. On the left there will be a ladder along which to climb into the loda from the water after swimming.

This is how the crinolines look from the side.

In the previous photo, you can see that an additional protective weld has appeared on board. But if you pay attention to the fact that we, like redans, do not boil the corner with TIG yet, but grab it. Yes, in this case, you have to "turn and turn" the boat and do a lot of seemingly superfluous things. But we need a flat bottom, especially the part closer to the transom. To protect the side seams, we use the corner 30 * 30 * 2, and to protect the central one 40 * 40 * 3. This is the case when it is better to do "with a margin" than to worry about the keel when approaching the shore.

Maestro at work. Semi-automatic boils the tube from the outside. The bottom work is completely finished. The photo shows how the redans are located. I know from experience what it is the best option on such a body, both the speed is maximum, and the control is stable at high speeds. For redans, a corner 20 * 50 * 3 is used. We don't finish the keel, we don't need gaps in the turn.

Now you can turn over and do the console. First, as always, on short tacks.

We continue to conjure over the console.

We put the front part of the glass frame. We use any tubes or squares with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm. We make the frame so that a person weighing 120 kg can sit on it. Practicality is important to me, albeit at the expense of beauty. The photo shows a lying blank for the front rails and everything that is constantly at work ... a rag, a brush, acetone)))

We continue to equip. The center stop of the frame has appeared and the side ones will appear soon.

Important photo. That it is bad to cook without acetone is understandable))). Only in this photo you can see how the benches are mounted. They are made of corrugated so that they do not slip in the rain. The bench is just one sheet bent on a bending machine with a bend inward. This made it possible to avoid additional transverse amplifiers. The rigidity is more than sufficient. If you pay attention, the bench is built into the frame. In it, a seat has been chosen in which the end of the bench is recessed. The rigidity of both is fantastic. Such a bench can serve as a base on which a chair is placed, etc. Personally, this is how I operate the boat.

We load onto a trailer and roll it out onto the street. We started in March, and the leaves are already blooming on the street.

The photo shows that there are rails, handles on the console, pockets under the console, a ladder for getting out of the water along the crinoline. There is a hole for cables on the right side of the board, and welded on the left.

We put the "risk" before priming the boat's hull and we will priming while the weather is good.

The process of priming and painting is clear to everyone and there is no need to dwell on it additionally.

The work on the hull has been completed. As soon as possible we hang up the Yamaha 55 bedl engine, with a volume of only 760 cubes., Put a tachometer, a voltmeter and launch the boat. The standard propeller immediately changes on the shore to a steel Mitcigan Apollo with a pitch of 15 because I understand that this propeller should be just for this case and motor. We warm up, get under way ... in the boat I have one motor for 2 holes (there is no trim)), it doesn’t dolphin, the motor for 3 holes doesn’t dolphin, despite the fact that the motor is very strongly squeezed out, but there are no gaps in turns.

The engine plate is initially set low, level with the keel. From experience with this deadlift and positioning the motor as far away from the keel line as possible, I know that I will lift and lift strongly. I raise it by 2 holes at once, that is, about 4.5 cm above the keel. I leave the motor at 3 holes, there is no dolphin, and the higher the speed, the more stable the boat is on the move. There is a small gap in the corners, but in general everything is ok.

As a result, we have revolutions with one person - 5,700, the steady speed is 69.5. Together (80 kg + 110 kg) the revolutions drop by 200 and the speed is 65.5. The current is naturally absent, calm. On a light ripple, soon higher. Thus, everything that I expected and wanted to get from the case over which I had been thinking all winter, I got it in full !!!

From the photographs of the boat on the move, it can be seen that at a speed above 60 km the boat has a very small wetted surface, the extreme steps are fully operational. The boat comes out of the water and goes on the very "heel", that is, in the water, only the cat section that I asked is obtained. It was possible to bring the inner redan to the end, but such controllability would not have been. This has been tested by me earlier on other cases. Everything worked out as planned.

Having operated the boat from May to November, I realized that the hull satisfies absolutely all my requests - light, fast, flawlessly controlled on the move, seaworthy, not rolling in the parking lot, practical for my tasks. The trim on the motor is naturally not enough, it would have raised the speed and made it more convenient to use the motor. The boat can be absolutely safely operated with a higher power engine, which is planned to be done in the future by changing the engine to Yamaha f 70.

There is a short video of the boat on the move:

I want to tell you how my hobby, the construction of aluminum boats, appeared. I was born and raised in the Russian Far East in the city of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. On a peninsula surrounded by the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk, the edge of rivers and lakes. The main hobby of the population of Kamchatka is fishing and hunting. The work of most residents is also related to the sea: sailors, fishermen, border guards, military.

In 1998, with my friend Alexander Bondarenko, we decided to build our first boat out of plywood, based on one of the projects of the "Modelist-Constructor" magazine. It was hard to come by in those days good materials (fiberglass, plywood, epoxy resin and so on), used what they could find, but despite all the difficulties, the boat turned out to be good, the construction process took 3 months.

In the summer of the same year, the ship was launched and used for the entire season. The big disadvantage of boats made of plywood covered with fiberglass is: heavy weight, problems with repair and maintenance. good looking ship (paint and plastic were badly peeled off on the hull during the season).

At the end of the 90s, used aluminum fishing boats from America and Canada began to appear in Kamchatka. This led me to think why you can't build something like that, it's not the gods who burn the pots. I had no experience of building ships from aluminum, no boat projects. Internet helped, at the beginning of 2000 ordered a project of the Atlantic dori in the USA from the Glen-L company. I didn't have any welding experience, I got a lot of information by studying special literature and consulting with specialists, and most importantly practice and practice again. The boat built with a friend Alexander was launched in 2001.

We used Dory for salmon fishing, the vessel proved to be good, the disadvantage with the large size of 7.5m had a flat bottom and insufficient controllability. We built 2 more dori at the request of fishermen, boats were used on the rivers of Kamchatka during the fishing season. A photo of our first boat and a review of the Americans posted on their website

For the open sea and coastal areas in 2002 he designed and built the first boat with trimaran lines, used information, articles, theoretical drawings from the magazine "KiYa" and other sources, the boat on the water showed itself well, especially in waves, but the first sample in terms of design was very far from perfect. Two more boats were built, where childhood illnesses were corrected and the design was changed.

In 2005 he moved to central Russia in the suburb of Voronezh, in a new place I am engaged in welding, I cook various hardware made of aluminum, sometimes fishermen ask to build a boat, the last interesting project is a swamp-going boat, the prototype was American boats of the company: Go-devil

Now I am making a skiff boat for myself, not a big boat for fishing in the surrounding waters.

The last project I built was a swamp boat

Length - 4.5m;
- Width - 1.5m, Bottom -1.2m;
- Board height 0.5m;

Metal thickness:
- Bottom - 3mm;
- Transom - 3mm;
- Boards - 2mm;
- Weight approximately 180 kg.

The prototype was American boats of the Go-devil company

It is an indispensable attribute among a variety of fishing equipment. This and vehicle, and a kind of friend, helper. In this regard, when purchasing a boat, you need to pay attention to its characteristics, so as not to reproach yourself for the wrong choice in the future. An option such as an aluminum boat fully meets the requirements and desires of anglers with extensive experience.

Advantages of aluminum boats

Aluminum construction, due to the addition of such important alloying elements as manganese and magnesium, has increased rate strength, hardness and corrosion resistance.

Lightness and practicality are the main distinguishing features of an aluminum boat from one made of steel, while having the same strength. It is beneficial for aluminum as for better material in the manufacture of planing craft. To increase the acceleration of a planing boat, it is necessary to reduce its mass. Consequently, in the case of a change in speed without resorting to an increase in engine power, the performance of the craft increases significantly, and fuel consumption decreases. It turns out that the operating costs of an aluminum boat are insignificant in relation to other brethren.

The aluminum boat has a rather long operational life (more than 20 years), and maintenance does not require special efforts, since the structure does not need an internal painting of the case to create additional protection against corrosion.

Disadvantages of aluminum boats

The main trouble is that it is very noisy due to the running engine, and the body itself serves as a kind of resonator for this sound. But even this drawback can be corrected by installing rubber plates on the transom of the floating craft, which absorb the sound volume.

Certain inconveniences during transportation, because in order to deliver the aluminum structure to the water, the services of a car and a special trailer with a hydraulic mechanism will be required. As for a medium-sized boat, one person can handle it.

A garage is fine for assembly. Materials for the manufacture of a boat are selected depending on the assembly method. For example, duralumin is used to create a body on rivets, and in the case of argon welding, it is necessary to use aluminum-magnesium alloys. It is also desirable to have equipment for bending parts. In addition, you will need assembly tools, sealant, paint, etc.

The easiest type of boat to reproduce is the jonboat. These have fewer curves and details.

To make a boat, you first need to assemble a mock-up from plywood, then make aluminum parts according to templates, drill holes (if using a riveted system), assemble, then coat the joints with sealant and, if necessary, paint.

Video about the boat "Romance":

Video about making a homemade aluminum boat:

Fiberglass has become one of the common materials for building a boat with your own hands. With the help of such raw materials, you can independently design a boat of rather large dimensions: from 7.5 to 18 m in length.

General information

One of the most common boat models made of such material as fiberglass is the WaveRunner-285 boat. It is considered a full-fledged planing vessel, which is quite suitable for sea trips or tourism. The ship, which is characterized by the fact that it has an increased freeboard, as well as a rather large width, is also convenient in that a comfortable salon with an adjacent toilet and galley can be placed in its bow. In the stern of the boat, you can make a double cabin with your own hands, the location of which will be located strictly under the cockpit. The unit control section will be located above the engine compartment, and it will also be protected from wind and water spray by a sloped glass.

Boat power

When equipping a boat with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account which engine will be installed on it later. This particular model is designed to install either one or two motors. However, it is important to consider here that the total power for the normal functioning of the facility should be in the range from 250 to 500 liters. from. They should also have a direct reverse gear, which will allow a speed of 15-30 knots, which in km / h ranges from 28 to 56. In addition, the vessel can also have propulsion systems or additional outboard motors.

It is worth noting that building a boat with your own hands saves from 50 to 75% of the material resources of the amount that would be spent if the unit was purchased at the shipyard, and not built independently. It is also worth noting that the above technology for the construction of a small vessel is not the last word in shipbuilding. This is only a proven, well-established method that will allow you to design an acceptable fiberglass boat with your own hands.

Beginning of work

The beginning of the construction of a small vessel made of fiberglass is no different from the construction of any other material. The first step is to carry out a breakdown on a plywood board or on a sheet of cardboard theoretical frames, as well as bypassing the stem. The breakdown must be in the actual size of these parts.

It is also important to note that the shield or plaza on which the breakdown is taking place must have a width corresponding to the width of the boat, plus 300 mm. The height of this object must be 400 mm higher than the intended height of the cabinet. Experts recommend that you first create drawings of boats, on which all the necessary details will be marked with an indication of the dimensions. This is done in order not to make mistakes in the manufacturing process.

Another important detail is that the upper ends of all frames must be extended to the height that is depicted as a horizontal line on the plaza. It is the perpendicular line of the DP and it is called the Shergel line.

Assembling patterns

When carrying out work on the layout marking of patterns, it is very important to take into account such factors as the thickness of the strips and the thickness of the sheet metal, which will be used as the skin of the inner surface of the matrix. In other words, when drawing up a drawing of the boat and subsequent assembly, it is necessary to set aside from the theoretical line of each of the frames inward that distance that will correspond to the thickness of the rails and sheet metal in total. It is this markup option that should be used when cutting out patterns and their further assembly.

Separate parts of the cross patterns must be connected using materials such as overlays and knits, made from pieces of plywood with a thickness of 8 to 10 mm. A similar indicator is suitable for a boat, the length of which will be in the region of 10 m. It is best to glue the linings to the templates, and then additionally screw them or nail them.

How to make a boat: skin and matrix

Further, before collecting the existing patterns in the matrix, you need to attend to the creation of the outer skin of the structure. In order to create the most comfortable conditions when working with outer cladding boat, it is necessary to provide a detail that ensures the tilt of the matrix on both sides of the ship.

If you do everything right, then there will be an opportunity to work standing on the floor next to the workpieces. The matrix itself, in any case, must have a very strong and rigid structure. This is necessary so that the shape of its body is not distorted during the construction of the unit.

How to make a boat with a solid die? Large structures are assembled from longitudinal beams, which will represent the horizontal base of the boat. Inside the resulting frame, it is necessary to install walkways that will facilitate the work of gluing the body. After the longitudinal beams, which are the base of the matrix, have been installed, the future position of all the patterns is marked on them, and steel wire is pulled along the beams, which will be the string denoting the ship's DP.

Installation of patterns

It is recommended to start the process of assembling blanks from the midship frame. Before securing this element securely, it is very important to make sure that the pattern is strictly vertical and perpendicular to the DP. It is attached to the beams, which are the base. After all the other blanks were mounted, the stand was installed in the transom DP, and all the elements were braced to avoid any movement, you can proceed to such a stage as sheathing the inner surface of the matrix using longitudinal rails.

To accomplish this task, material is most often used with a thickness of 12 to 15 mm and a width of 50 mm. For equipping the bottom of the boat, it is better to use rails with the same thickness, but greater width - up to 100 mm.

Aluminum watercraft

The low cost of raw materials, as well as lathes, led to the fact that many owners sewed on to the fact that they independently make certain parts and elements from metal. It is believed that the production of an aluminum boat is one of the most difficult tasks, which is practically impossible, and at the factory they are created without difficulty, since they have special tools for this. However, this is not the case.

The most difficult thing in the manufacture of this type of boat independently is the production of its patterns from metal. This term is understood as marking how exactly it is necessary to cut the necessary parts from aluminum.

In the manufacture of such a unit from metal, the whole process is reduced to the assembly of a kind of designer. This is true if the workpieces are not cut out on their own, since this still requires a lot of work skill and high-precision equipment, and a computerized model of the boat is purchased. Yes, the cost of such a model will also be quite high, but if you compare it with the purchase of a ready-made vessel, you will see significant savings.

High-speed small craft

Another option for a ship that you can make yourself is a speedboat. A rather important part in the construction of this type of unit is the choice of the engine and its location. You can place this part in the cockpit of the vessel, and the part that will protrude can be closed with the hood.

This location was not chosen by chance. It will expand the range of devices suitable for installation. Engines from cars such as Zhiguli or Volga can be used. In addition to these models, it is quite possible to install a diesel engine from a tractor. However, this is only possible if additional hot air extraction is provided. To do this, you can use a fake chimney.

Air-cooled engines can also be installed. Since the speedboat must have good stability when moving quickly through the water, it is recommended to place this part closer to the center of gravity of the entire boat. Heavy weight the engine will give greater stability to the entire structure.

Aluminum boats are designed for fishing and recreation. The structures are light, durable, durable, maintainable, with low fuel consumption during transportation. Aluminum boats are presented in different modifications in terms of weight, dimensions, shape. Popular models from the manufacturers Vinbot, Vyatka, Tactics, Smartliner, Lund, LAKER, etc.

Boats made of aluminum and magnesium alloys differ in the following technical and structural characteristics:

• light weight;
• durability;
• strength, corrosion resistance;
• affordable price;
• maintainability, etc.

Structures can be transported by car to hard-to-reach areas. The small weight of the craft allows you to install low-power motors, save fuel.

The aluminum alloy has anti-corrosion properties, therefore it does not deform as a result of mechanical damage and does not oxidize when exposed to water.

Aluminum is durable, strong. Boats made of aluminum have a solid bottom that provides comfortable movement on the water.

A large selection of designs allows you to choose a watercraft with optimal dimensions. The average length of the products is 3-8 m, the permissible engine power is 300 hp.

Budget aluminum boat repair. The holes are covered with metal sheets with rubber, plastic inserts or sealed by welding. Aluminum is not damaged by water.

The design of metal floating craft is resistant to water, the risk of mechanical deformation is reduced in comparison with analogues made of polyvinyl chloride. The boat, if necessary, is supplemented with special elements to strengthen the frame and safe transportation of passengers in large bodies of water.

Aluminum surfaces can be easily painted with a brush or airbrush. The products are comfortable, multifunctional, and can be used both without a motor and with a powerful motor.

Varieties of metal boats

According to the manufacturing method, the products are divided into:

• riveted;
• all-metal (welded).

Riveted models are easy to transport and repair, because not required welding machine... However, it is necessary to take into account their low tightness, as well as the need to cover the surface with protective compounds. In winter, boats are stored in rooms sheltered from precipitation.

Welded products are strong, durable, resistant to deformation as a result of mechanical stress. The models are heavy, and during repair they require complex dismantling of elements.

Watercraft are subdivided into:

• single-console;
• two-cantilever.

Single-console products are small-sized, compact, optimal for fishing in calm rivers and lakes. The length reaches 4.55 m.

Aluminum double-cantilever boats are more spacious, their length exceeds 5 m. The boats are suitable for the installation of powerful motors.

• oar;
• motor;
• universal.

Engines can be stationary or outboard.

Models with stationary motors are more spacious, designed for long trips.

The outboard motors are installed in compact watercraft, suitable for versatile use in calm rivers.

Design features

The structure of the aluminum vessel is designed for freshwater reservoirs. It is not recommended to use the boat on the open sea, because it can turn over.

Determining characteristics for a boat: length (up to 10 m), width (from 1.5 m), weight (from 150 kg). The average carrying capacity is 150-500 kg, the depth is about 30-60 cm. The buoyancy of the vessel is provided by the built-in foam elements (on the sides of the boat), which prevent excessive immersion.

Constructions are available solid or collapsible.

One-piece floating craft are airtight, stable in water bodies, durable, but difficult to transport.

Collapsible aluminum boats are easy to move and transform, they are compact. However, it is necessary to take into account the reduced tightness and reduced design life.

By constructive decision boats are subdivided into:

• flat-bottomed;
• keel;
• with a V-shaped bottom and rounded contours.

Flat bottom models are simple, lightweight, budget; controlled by oars or a low power motor. Flat-bottomed watercraft are used for fishing in shallow waters.

They are well managed in rivers with fast currents, stable on waves. Models are equipped with a motor, supplemented with windshields, buoyancy blocks.

Models with a V-shaped bottom and rounded contours are comfortable, maneuverable, can be used when passing deep waters, in difficult weather conditions. The boats are water-resistant.

Optional accessories

When operating a vessel made of aluminum, it can be completed, depending on the size and purpose, with additional accessories.

In the list of devices:

• oars (for boats without a motor);
• steering;
• oarlocks;
• anchor eye;
• rope cable;
• water stopper;
• repair kit, etc.

Boats are often supplemented with oars (solid or foldable for ease of transport). The length of the elements varies in accordance with the dimensions of the craft. Compact boats are complemented by short oars with plastic inserts. Oars for large boats are often solid, non-separable. These products are durable, resistant to mechanical damage, but make it difficult to transport the boat to the reservoir.

High-end aluminum ships are equipped with steering controls.

The oarlocks allow you to comfortably steer the boat using 2 oars. Products are made from metal alloys, durable rubber or plastic.

The anchor eye is located in the bow block of the boat, it allows to protect the side parts from damage by a rope or rope. The eye is designed to securely hold the rope.

The rope is intended for fastening objects inside the vessel, if necessary, it performs the tasks of a rescue device.

The water damper prevents waves from entering the rowing boats. The element is made in the form of a visor, which is installed along the perimeter of the vessel.

As part of the mandatory equipment of the boat, there must be a repair kit, which includes rivets, means for eliminating holes, waterproof compounds, patches, and sealants.

Is it possible to make a boat with your own hands

If necessary, you can make an aluminum boat yourself. The work is recommended to be carried out in the garage block. The choice of tools and materials is influenced by the assembly method.

For a riveted model, duralumin is required. Welded models require a combination of aluminum and magnesium alloys.

To manufacture a collapsible aluminum vessel "Jonbot" you will need tools:

• drill with attachments for metal;
• bending machine;
• a hammer;
• metal cutting device;
• welding machine, etc.

Necessary materials:

• aluminum sheets;
• fasteners (rivets, staples);
• sealant;
• paint.

After cutting the elements with a metal (iron) tool, holes are drilled from the patterns. The structure is assembled and fastened in stages. The joints are coated with sealant. After the compounds have dried, the boat is painted in several layers with a special water-repellent paint.

Top Models

The best top models:

• Marine;
• Malutka;
• "Romance";
• Surface Drive;
• Smartliner 110;
• Finval 440;
• Stareсraft, etc.

Marine boats are lightweight and can be easily transported on the roof of the vehicle. The design has a keeled body that provides good glide through the water. The boat is equipped with a medium-power engine, optimal for water walks, fishing.

The Malutka model is non-separable, with a rigid structure, the connections are made with rivets. The body is strong, the model moves quickly, is durable, stable. The vessel has a passenger capacity of 3-4 people, a carrying capacity of up to 150 kg. The floating craft can be easily moved when assembled.

The boat "Romance" is equipped with longitudinal corners with outer surface bottom to increase stability and resistance to water currents at large waves. The vessel is 2.6 m long, with a maximum width of 1.1 m, a transom height of 400 mm, a displacement of 260 kg. The design refers to aluminum boats for a motor with low power (5 HP), more often driven by oars. Easily transported to the reservoir.

Models of the Surface Drive series from Go-Devil (USA) are equipped with a reinforced transom. The vessel is 4.8 m long, 1.2 m wide, and has a capacity of 500 kg. Improved transom design allows for movement in muddy water. The reinforced bottom is made of 5086 aluminum alloy. The floor surface is treated with a special anti-slip material. The passenger capacity of the vessel is 5 people.

Not the last in the ranking of aluminum boats for fishing - the Smartliner 110 model, designed for operation in rivers and coastal waters of the seas in different weather conditions. The ship's hull is made of reinforced aluminum. The deck structure is supplemented with durable plastic. The model is compact, accommodates 3 passengers, reaches 3.5 m in length, 1.3 m in width. The vessel's carrying capacity is 350 kg, the thickness of the sides and bottom is 1.5 mm, the transom is 3 mm. The permitted engine power reaches 15 hp. The design has passed European certification (CE).

Finval 440 model is included in the list of light boats, suitable for large bodies of water, equipped with a 20-50 hp engine. The carrying capacity of the boat is 400 kg, the thickness of the sides is 2 mm, the bottom is 3 mm. The vessel has average dimensions, it reaches more than 4 m in length and 1.7 m in width. The vessel's elements are connected by welding. The structure is equipped with a two-level deck, steering, fuel filter, switch box and a connector for connecting 12V instruments.

The ship of the Stareсraft brand is robust, stable, with a large carrying capacity, designed for fast rivers. Alloy 5052N34 was used in the creation of the structure. The model is distinguished by its durability, versatility, and water resistance.

The model UMS-600 Cruiser is large, the length of the vessel reaches 6.5 m, the width is 2.3 m, the height of the sides is 0.7 m. The vessel's carrying capacity is 640 kg, the passenger capacity is 8 people. The vessel is equipped with a 170 hp engine, the maximum speed of the boat is 90 km / h. The body is made of AMg5m aluminum alloys. The model is equipped with handrail equipment, electric panel, fuel tank, steering, stern ladder, repair kit.

The best aluminum fishing boat UMS - 450 DC AL accommodates up to 4 passengers, has a lifting capacity of 400 kg. The model from the American manufacturer is designed for different types fishing, equipped with specialized equipment. The structure of the body is solid, the bottom is reinforced. The ship's speed reaches 80 km / h.

Russian aluminum boats from manufacturers are perfect for fishing:

• Volzhanka;
• Kazanka;
• Crimea;
• Neman;
• Dnieper;
• Vyatka, etc.

Also on the market for boats made of aluminum and magnesium alloys are foreign manufacturers (Lund, LAKER, RusBoat, etc.).