Our site contains a lot of interesting and useful information about such a decorative element as ceramic tiles. Many words have been said about the methods of styling it. In what cases and how to cut it correctly. This article will talk about how to cut it - the tile cutter. What are the varieties, what do they have in common and how they differ. How to choose a manual tile cutter, what to look for in the first place when buying, what are the characteristics of tools from leading manufacturers.

Tile cutter device

A tile cutter is a device of a certain type for cutting, or rather splitting, ceramic tiles up to 15 millimeters thick. Running a little ahead, it is worth noting that professional tile cutters allow you to work with tiles, stone and porcelain stoneware (including extruded), the thickness of which can reach 21-25 mm.

There are two classes of manual tile cutters:

• Manual tile cutter. This is a special hand-held device in the form of a metal rod, on one side of which a chisel for cutting the glaze is soldered, and on the other - a grip in the form of a fork for chipping tiles. A more effective tool are special pliers and glass cutter. Using a glass cutter, according to the preliminary marking, the glazed layer is cut, after which the unnecessary edge of the tile is chipped off with pliers along the cut line.
• Mechanical. This is a more complex device, consisting of a bed, guide rods, a carriage with a handle. A cutter and a splitting foot are located on the bottom of the carriage.

On the bed, with the help of special adjustable support racks, guides are installed. They are usually made from round hollow tubes. The carriage moves along the guides with a handle. Depending on the class of the tool, 3 types of carriages can be distinguished according to the type of sliding along the guide rods:

• Directly the carriage itself moves along lubricated guides. The friction of metals causes wear of parts and destruction of their surfaces. Gaps appear between the parts, causing backlash. The consequence of this is the deterioration of the quality of the tile chip and the unsuitability of the tile cutter for further use.
• Nylon liners greatly improve the situation by reducing wear on the cutter parts and significantly improving the cutting accuracy and smooth running of the carriage.
• Bearing carriages used primarily in professional devices. They are designed for long-term use in conditions of increased loads, they have significantly higher power. The bearings provide the easiest and smoothest carriage sliding along the rails.

The carriage is equipped with two devices: a cutting roller, which makes an incision in the glazed coating, and a foot, which provides pressure on the tile for splitting.

• The cutting roller is made from certain types of high speed steels or their alloys and has high hardness and resistance to abrasion. The design of the roller is such that it cannot be sharpened. As the cutter is worn out, dull, or when the cutter fails, it is replaced with a new one. Some manufacturers of tile cutters use a sharpened rod instead of a roller.
• The foot is on the tile, and when pressed by the handle of the carriage, presses on the tile along the cut line, "helping" it to crack.

In order for the tiles to be cut according to the markings, the bed is equipped with a ruler - for correct and accurate placement of the sample on the working surface. The ruler has a marker that defines where the cut line starts.

The base of the tile cutter is covered with a layer of soft rubber or rubber so that the tile does not move on the bed when the cutter is applied. Under the rubber layer, along the line of the alleged split, there is a metal protrusion - a rib that protrudes when the carriage foot puts pressure on the tile and the rubber is compressed. The shape of the base of the foot and this protrusion provide an even cleavage of a ceramic or porcelain stoneware plate in a given place.

Carriage guides can be of different designs:

• From two tubes. Some manufacturers for certain models make the guides not hollow, but all-metal.
• Rail. The guide is made in the form of a "rail" made of I-beam or solid metal plate... Most often, a professional manual tile cutter for porcelain stoneware has such a design, since such a solution allows you to withstand the heavy load required to cut a more durable material, which is somewhat thicker (up to 25 mm) than ordinary ceramic tiles.

Anyone who has done tiling work on their own knows that it is not always necessary to cut tiles in a straight line or at right angles. In the course of work, it becomes necessary to make cutouts for communications or cut tiles for laying on a non-standard surface. To simplify the solution of such problems, some models are equipped with additional devices, namely:

• Side stops or stops, installed on the base, help to fix the decor element so that it can be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
• Protractor. This is a kind of protractor with a rotary stop bar, which makes it possible to position the tiles on the bed for splitting at any desired angle.
• "Ballerina". A device for drilling holes with a diameter of 30 to 80 millimeters. On the axis of the knob, which is operated by hand, there is a device similar to a drawing compass or a ballerina frozen in a "pas" - hence the name. A holder is fixed perpendicular to the central rod, on which a cutter with an adjustable overhang is attached. The position of the cutter is set in accordance with the diameter of the desired hole. With a smooth rotation of the wrench, the mechanism comes into action and drills a hole.

It should be noted right away that a ballerina in budget tile cutters is unlikely to meet your hopes and expectations. As a rule, these devices are not of the best quality. In more high-class instruments, the ballerina is made with a higher quality and copes with the tasks assigned to her.

Among professionals, disputes often arise about the advisability of completing a tile cutter with a device for drilling holes. But, as they say, how many people - so many opinions. Therefore, choosing the most suitable tool for you, be guided by your needs and capabilities.

All manual tile cutters have one significant drawback: they do not allow you to cut a strip from the edge of the tile, the width of which is less than 10 millimeters. In such cases, use pliers or electric tile cutter.

The principle of the manual tile cutter and its advantages

Having dealt with the device, we will consider how to use a manual tile cutter. The simplest models, which are a cutter or a regular glass cutter, are very simple to work with. Marking is performed on the surface of the tile, a chipping line is drawn, along which, using a ruler, the glazed coating is cut with a cutter. After that, unnecessary parts are broken off with a chipping fork or tongs.

The technology of work for a tile cutter with a carriage is somewhat different, although the principle is the same. A cleavage line is drawn on the surface, after which the tile is laid on the bed according to special marks on the ruler fixed to the base. We fix the tile, not allowing it to move. With the handle of the carriage we press the cutter against the glaze and cut through it, smoothly moving the carriage. Then, without moving the tile, we put a foot on its surface, and pressing the handle, we split the tile.

With this information in hand, we will draw conclusions about the advantages of the tool:

• Economical - does not need additional electricity costs;
• Small-sized - has small size, easy to use and store;
• Safe - if the minimum safety measures are observed, it does not pose a threat to the health and life of the employee;
• Relatively low price.

Having an idea of \u200b\u200bhow to cut tiles with a manual tile cutter, we will consider what characteristics you need to pay attention to when choosing a tool.

The main criteria for choosing a tile cutter

When choosing a tile cutter, you should pay attention to the following characteristics:

• Bed size. The tool is used to work with both wall and floor tiles. On the market today building materials a large number of decorative elements of different sizes and shapes are presented: from squares with a side of 10x10 cm and ending decorative panels... For home use, the optimal base length will be from 40 centimeters or more (remember that some elements will have to be cut diagonally or obliquely).
• Reliability of the bed and support of the guides. The quality of its work largely depends on the strength of the tool base. It should not play and bend when the foot is pressed against the tile. Otherwise, the tool will be simply unsuitable for further use. The supports must be well adjusted and tightly, fix the guide rods without play - the carriage must move smoothly so that the cutter can cut the glaze exactly along the cleavage line.
• Carriage movement. The carriage along the guides should slide along the guides smoothly, without jolts. This will ensure correct and effective work cutter. The type of carriage (sliding, on bushings or bearings) must correspond to the load and the amount of work for which you plan to use this device. The manual porcelain tile cutter must have a sturdy handle to provide enough force to split the tiles.
  Adjustability. The tile has different parameters and characteristics, therefore, to obtain quality result the tool should be able to adjust to any kind of material.

In order to have a starting point when choosing, we suggest considering the rating of the best manual tile cutters.

Rating of tile cutters from different manufacturers

SIGMA

One of the best are the Italian Sigma tile cutters. The carriage equipped with bearings runs smoothly on two guide rods. A characteristic feature of the models of this company is a shock-absorbing bed, equipped with a spring system. This feature allows high quality cutting of thin tiles - less than 8 millimeters thick. Another advantageous feature: the minimum width of the cut strip is 8 mm from the edge of the tile.

Another highlight of the manufacturer is the ability of the carriage to work in two directions: from itself and towards itself. For some people with certain habits or physiological characteristics, this property of the instrument is very important. High cutting accuracy is ensured by the presence of a ruler that can be installed at any required angle. Allows to cut ceramics and porcelain stoneware up to 20 mm thick with a capacity of 1050-1200 kg. It has a 12, 16 or 19 mm cutter wheel depending on the model.

The biggest drawback is the price. The tools are quite expensive. This is due to the high quality that allows the use of Sigma tile cutters in both amateur and professional activities. The price for manual tile cutters from this manufacturer starts from 6,000 rubles and reaches 65,000.

RUBI

The history of another Italian manufacturer of tile cutting equipment dates back to the middle of the last century. In 1951, the Boada brothers organized the production of amateur and professional tile cutters, distinguished by high quality and reliability in use, with the following characteristics:

• The cast reinforced bed is equipped with folding shock-absorbing supports;
• The carriage installed on chrome-plated guides (in some professional models they are all-steel) works in the "pull" and "push" modes;
• Removable cutters with a diameter of 6.8 to 22 mm are installed;
• Movable separator capacity ranges from 600 to 1500 kg;
• The presence of side stops for diagonal cutting;
• Precise rulers and protractors allow you to chip at any desired angle;
• Some professional series are monorail;
• It is possible to adjust the cutting depth from 3 to 21 mm and the lowering height of the presser foot;
• The length of the cut tiles can vary from 30 to 155 cm, the maximum thickness is 20 mm.

Matrix

The Matrix tile cutters have a ball bearing carriage with smooth, easy running. Distinctive feature this tool is a soft stroke of the handle. The rail cutters are equipped with a carriage with adjusting bolts, which allows for maximum smooth running without backlash. The sturdy aluminum frame makes it reliable, lightweight and mobile.

Different models are designed to work with different facing materials from 400 to 1200 mm long and up to 16 mm thick.

Monolit

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This section of the catalog contains all the Tongs Clamps SVP of our store from various manufacturers and different standard sizes. The SVP forceps are designed to clamp the SVP wedge into the base, clip or retainer of the Tile Alignment System. With their help, the wedge is fine-tuned to the desired position to align the nearest tiles horizontally. On sale there are universal Tongs Clamps SVP with three attachments for various systems of fast tile laying from different manufacturers, including SVP T-shaped!

SVP KP - One of the most popular Tile Leveling Systems in Russia for a 1.5 mm joint. This is the first version of the tile hovercraft with a T-clamp base and a split wedge. With the SVP KP, you will lay ceramic tiles much faster with the prevention of displacement in height, both on a horizontal and on a vertical surface. The use of SVP for tiles allows you to make a perfectly even tile joint of 1.5 mm, as well as reduce the number of corrections to their position, ensuring quick and easy use. SVP KP has become even cheaper and more accessible. For the convenience of using the SVP for tiles, there are special tongs on sale for clamping wedges into T-shaped bases.

NEW! Professional Tile Leveling System 1.0 mm for fast installation of ceramic and porcelain tiles with a tile joint of 1 mm. For the first time SVP PRO 1.0 mm for a wide wedge on affordable price... SVP 1.0 mm is produced in Russia. Made from high quality virgin LDPE. SVP is relevant for both large-format and small ceramic tiles. Very efficient and easy to use. SVP SP PRO 1.0 mm is suitable for wedges DLS, KAROFIT, RAIMONDI and other systems with a wedge width of 20-23 mm. Suitable for tiles with a height of 5 mm to 12 mm. The speed of tiling with SVP is increased up to 4 times! This allows you to make large volumes in a faster time. At the same time, you get perfectly equal tile joints from 1 mm and a flawlessly smooth surface of the laid tiles.

SVP TLS PROFI 1.0 and 1.4 mm - Tile Leveling System for tile joints from 1.0 mm and tiles with a height of 4-12 mm. All system components are made of high quality plastic. TLS PROFI allows you to control the crosshairs when laying tiles and is placed 5 cm from the corners on the edges of the two tiles to be laid, which allows you to assess the condition of the crosshairs and make adjustments if necessary. The wedge does not deform during fixation and installation. The base clamp does not break during installation, but is easily knocked off with a mallet or foot. This SVP speeds up the process of laying tiles and porcelain stoneware several times. It is indispensable for independent work and for large volumes of construction companies. SVP TLS PROFI prevents differences in tile heights during installation, both on the floor and on the walls, and provides a distance between tiles of 1 or 1.4 mm. The main advantage of the Tile Alignment System is that it prevents the tiles from shifting during installation, as well as eliminating the need to correct the position of the tiles, ensuring high laying speed and ease of use.

DLS Tile Leveling System. The DLS tile hoist is preferred by large construction companies due to the possibility of installing the base and the DLS wedge on the crosshair of the tiles to be laid. Like all tile hovers, this system is designed for quick installation, preventing the appearance of height differences when laying it on the floor and on the walls. The use of the DLS SVP prevents the tiles from shifting. Correction is not required with it. SVP DLS provides speed and ease of use when self-styling... Today, the system for leveling tiles SVP DLS is a common laying system among tilers and is recognized by professionals as convenient for laying and leveling tiles of any format with a thickness of up to 12 mm. The DLS fast laying system provides a tile joint from 1.5 mm.

New! Professional SVP PROF 4K. Forms a tile joint of 1.5 mm for rectified tiles and 1.7-2.0 mm for ordinary, unedged tiles. Its shape and size is analogous to such SVPs as DLS and ILS. Has special "USY" for installing the base of the Prof 4K tile leveling system on the crosshair of the tiles being laid. In most cases, the Prof 4K tile leveling system is used simultaneously with installation on the crosshair and with installation on the side. This system works equally well both on the floor and on the walls. The high quality of the material of manufacture has allowed this tile leveling system to become a leader in orders for professional tile installers and construction companies.

Tile leveling system KAROFIT. Produced in Turkey in specialized factories, which allows you to achieve maximum quality. According to experts, even Italian manufacturers are often inferior in quality to KAROFIT hovercraft. The variety of clips of the Karofit tile leveling system is impressive. There are clips for laying tiles with a tile seam thickness from 1 mm to 3 mm. SVP Karofit has clips for laying tiles with a height of 12 mm to 20 mm. The use of this quick tiling system prevents tiles from shifting both on the floor and on the walls. With it, you do not need to adjust the position of already laid tiles. KAROFIT provides quick and easy handling for DIY tiling

SVP ILS STANDARD is intended for leveling tiles and has a thickness of legs and base of 1.2 mm. It has its own improved wedge, but also fits the Farton hovercraft wedges and is a replacement for Farton hovercraft if necessary. This is a new SVP for tiles that replaced traditional crosses and more expensive SVPs. The clamp allows you to work with unedged tiles and makes a tile seam from 1.2 mm. There are pliers for convenient work with this SVP. For legal entities - Price with VAT.

BATTIPAV Tile Leveling Systems. Designed and manufactured in Italy. SVP BATTIPAV is the prevention of the appearance of differences in the height of the laid ceramic tiles on any surfaces. The use of the BATTIPAV SVP allows you to speed up the process of laying ceramic tiles, levels the height of the tiles at the seams, prevents them from shifting, and also reduces the correction of the position of the tiles, ensuring quick and easy work. Special tongs are included with bases and wedges.

The RUBI TILE LEVEL Tile Leveling System ensures that the laid material remains stable when the mortar hardens and ensures that there are no differences in height. Thanks to the TILE LEVEL System, the master tiler can see how his working time is reduced and its profitability is increased. RUBI TILE LEVEL & was created to save time on the installation of large-format materials, especially rectified porcelain stoneware, and to ensure perfect installation and leveling of the laid surface. The pressure exerted on the ceramic by the pressure caps by means of the tapes makes this system an ideal solution for the installation task and provides time savings and excellent installation results for both ceramic and natural materials.

The process of installing porcelain stoneware would not have been possible without trimming the tiles in place. This is especially true when laying out a complex pattern. But this is not plywood, and it cannot be cut so easily. Its hardness can reach nine points out of a maximum ten.

There are several technologies for cutting porcelain stoneware tiles, for example, a special device is used - manual porcelain stoneware tile cutter. The choice of a specific method and appropriate tool depends mainly on two parameters:

• tile quality:
• type of cut.

No matter how carefully the ruler is selected and made, there is still a section along the walls that is not multiple to the tiles. Hence, it needs to be cut. A similar situation arises when bypassing communications. Obviously, to carry out these works, a tile cutter for porcelain stoneware is needed, how to choose it is another matter.

Mechanical machine for cutting porcelain stoneware: what is it

The hand held porcelain tile cutter is used to cut tiles in a straight line.

There are also tools equipped with a special element, "ballerina", with which they cut round holes.

At its rather low cost, it is very convenient and provides good quality. Its design is quite simple - it is a base platform on which the guide tubes are fixed. It is along them that the moving element moves. All tools of this type are equipped with a device with which the tiles are broken at the cut.

The cutting element of the tool is a carbide or diamond roller - exactly the same as a glass cutter, only of a larger size. The roller is fixed in a special holder that moves along the guides. A special base on which all these elements are assembled is firmly installed on the surface during work.

The manual tile cutter is more suitable for household work and small volumes. For most models, there are also restrictions on the thickness of the cut tiles - no more than 12 mm. The cut quality is quite high, although sometimes the cutting area will need to be additionally processed.

When choosing a tile cutter, adhere to general rule: the thickness of the tile and the diameter of the cutting roller must match: the thicker the porcelain stoneware, the more powerful the diameter must be.

How to cut with a hand tool

The movement of the manual tile cutter along the guides is ensured by bearings or cylinders.After long-term storage, you need to check for the movement of the mechanism and the sharpness of the roller:

• the worn out "diamond" roller is replaced,
• tighten its fasteners if, when pulling along the rods, the mechanism wedges or flounders, replace the bearings, clean the guides, etc.,
• the roller can be made easier by dripping a drop of oil.

Porcelain stoneware cutting process

After making accurate measurements, marks are made on the solid tile, then a line is drawn with a marker or pencil, according to the measurements. The tiles are placed on the base of the cutter and positioned so that the roller runs exactly along the line from start to finish. The tile should not move during cutting, therefore, during operation, it is fixed by hand. The other is to raise the handle of the tool and lower it.

Please note that the paws should not rest against the tile, while the diamond roller should touch its surface.

The roller is brought to the edge of the porcelain stoneware and, pressing the handle, is evenly drawn to the other edge: the more evenly the roller is drawn, the clearer and more uniform the cut will be.

Try to cut it in one go, as multiple cuts along the same line will affect the quality of the cut.

The next step is to return the tile to its original position, raise the handle of the tile cutter and put the paws with an emphasis in the middle of the cut, breaking occurs with their help. Gradually increasing the force, press the handle until the porcelain stoneware breaks. You can remove a small excess from the tile using nippers or pliers, biting off or breaking off along the cut line.

A poor-quality cut can be corrected by grinding. To do this, a stone cutting disc is placed on the grinder. A thin line is drawn parallel to the cut with a pencil or marker, then it is sanded. Of course, if the coating is supposed to be hidden in the future, say, under the skirting board, the quality of the cut is not so important.

Dry cutting: grinder (angle grinder)

A dry cutter is a disc for cutting porcelain stoneware that does not have slots, with a "diamond" coating, sometimes solid. The direction of rotation of the dry cutter must be aligned with the direction in which the grinder's mechanism rotates. This not only improves the quality of the cut, but also reduces the risk of injury.

When used skillfully and carefully, a dry cutter can give the same results as a tile cutter. In this case, the tile is sawn off not along the line, but with a margin of 2-3 mm. In this case, chips and cracks may remain on its front surface. This cut quality can be accepted if it is not visible. The number of chips can be reduced by making a cut in one pass - each new pass increases the number and size of cracks and chips. The left stock is ground in a circle over the stone.

The main advantage of cutting with a grinder is the ability to cut straight as well as curved. Thus, all kinds of geometric shapes are obtained. However, this process is technologically more complicated, and it also requires maximum care and the strictest adherence to safety regulations. To the disadvantages of cutting with a blade, you can add dust and debris, which are formed in large quantities during the process.

Wet cutting: electric tile cutter

How to cut ceramic granite, if you need to get a very high-quality and clean cut. If you work with a dry cutter or a mechanical tile cutter, it is not always possible to provide this high qualityand it takes too much time. An electric tile cutter is most suitable for such work. Its design consists of a table and a cutting element, which is driven by an electric motor. On some models, the tile fixing table is stationary and the cutting is guided by the advancement of the cutting element. For others, on the contrary, the cutting part of the tool is stationary, and cutting occurs due to the advancement of the table.

For high-quality and safe work with this tool, constant cooling is necessary: \u200b\u200bthe material being cut and the cutting blade must be constantly cooled. In most cases, electric ones use water cooling.

Many people dislike it. This lesson is quite difficult for a beginner. If you have not come across it, practice first on a clay tile. It is much softer and more pliable than porcelain stoneware. The tools are the same, and by stuffing your hand on ordinary ceramics, you can be more confident in handling artificial stone... Cutting porcelain stoneware involves the use of mechanical and electrical helpers.

The choice of the tool depends both on the tile and on the task. The arsenal of the ideal tiler is present. A layman's suitcase is simpler, so cutting porcelain stoneware at home requires either going to the store or renting a tool. Although if the cutting places are eventually hidden, you can limit yourself to a grinder. But about how to cut porcelain stoneware, in order.

Fast navigation through the article

Mechanical tile cutter

It is the most popular tile tool exclusively. There are many variations, but should be relatively powerful and durable. It consists of a frame, rail guides, a cutting roller and tabs for breaking tiles. The machine (bearing or cylinder) with two guides has become widespread.

To cut porcelain stoneware:

• Mark the boundaries of the cut.
• Place the plate on the tool bed with one mark to the center of the bed and the other to the cutter wheel.
• Move the roller evenly from one mark to the other.
• Gently press the paws into the cutting area.

Do it once, repeated action almost always leads to marriage. The roller must be sharp, the runners are lubricated, otherwise the process will be very difficult. The manual tile cutter has one serious drawback - over time, play appears in the guides, leading to uneven cutting. Tightening the fastening bolts does not help much, with the result that the tool is only suitable for trimming that will be hidden by wall tiles or skirting boards.

We are talking about "standard", popular, tile cutters with a relatively low cost. An expensive tool, especially a monorail, is free from this drawback. But for homework, for obvious reasons, it is not suitable.

Hand tools are good for quickly cutting a large number of slabs, the cut of which will later be hidden. In this he is much better than an electric apparatus. Considering that it comes with a template that helps you not to be distracted by marking the ceramic when trimming identical pieces, this is the best decision for volumetric and clean work.
The video shows how easy it is to cut porcelain stoneware with a hand-held tile cutter:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v\u003dGTC9H3T_bLs

Electric cutter

The electrical apparatus is devoid of mechanical drawbacks. Thanks to him, they achieve a very high-quality cut. It allows you to work with dense and thick porcelain stoneware without compromising on quality. In addition, he is able to cut thin pieces of ceramic; in the case of a power tool, even with a new roller and lubricated runners, there is no guarantee of a positive result.

An electric tile cutter is not as fast as a manual tile cutter, but that hardly matters where perfect quality is needed. The only drawback is the relative high cost. However, the price is comparable to a quality imported mechanical tool.

What is an electric cutter?

• Table or camp.
• Guide.
• Cutting element (diamond wheel).
• Electrical engine.
• Water system.

Cutting with a diamond wheel is accompanied by a large amount of dust, therefore the device has a hydraulic system that cools the cutting element and prevents active spraying of the ceramic. The models differ in the water supply scheme. In one case, it is a reservoir with a liquid, in which part of the circle is constantly immersed, in the other, wetting is carried out by running water. The fluid must be changed periodically to avoid the accumulation of waste contaminating the diamond element. The latter should also be washed regularly, otherwise cutting particles become clogged.

Bulgarian

An angle grinder is the tool that will help out in the absence of any other cutting tool. Further on the advantages and disadvantages of the grinder.

The grinder can trim any shape and size, grind the angle at 45 degrees. For work, you need a special diamond disc for tiles: smooth and without holes.

• Availability. There is a grinder in almost every home, it is enough to purchase a diamond wheel.
• Possibility of shaped cutting. The tool's portability allows you to cut almost any shape - skill would be enough.
• Many people have a certain skill of working with angle grinders, this provides a quick mastery of the pruning process.

Minuses:

• Noise and dust. Working with a grinder is accompanied by "audio accompaniment" and a lot of dust.
• LBM is a dangerous tool. Careless movement and neglect of safety measures can easily lead to injury.
• Poor quality cut. Depending on the quality of the grinder, the degree of chips and microcracks in the tile is different, but there are always flaws. Finishing the cut by grinding partly solves the problem, but it is better to use the angle grinder to work with tiles, which, from an aesthetic point of view, are not of great importance - the cut points must be hidden.

Techniques for safe work with a grinder:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v\u003dfvqotukmgEo
Having outlined the cutting line, cut a couple of millimeters from it - the diamond wheel "eats" part of the ceramics. Set the circle in accordance with the direction of movement of the mechanism; there is an arrow on the cutting element. In the process, try to drive the car back and forth less, this will reduce the number of chips. This advice does not work when cutting thin pieces of porcelain stoneware, here the desire to cut in one pass will turn into a scrap of a slab.

Approach responsibly when choosing a diamond wheel, buy high-quality consumables. Otherwise, it is fraught with the destruction of the element, which at high speed leads to injury. Give preference to circles without ventilation (gaps), ceramics do not like them.
Video about choosing a diamond wheel for trimming porcelain stoneware:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v\u003d5Bn8ab9DkRI
A blunt "diamond" can be brought into working condition with a brick. Walk over it 2-3 times with the cutting element, this will rid the circle of accumulated dirt.
How to make a narrow crop:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v\u003duCTfHEy2j7g

Waterjet cutting

The tools described are good in their own way, but how to cut porcelain stoneware complex schemes? Sometimes a project requires an intricate design with a lot of curves and lines. You can take a grinder and try to cut it out, but, as we said, it leaves a lot of chips that cannot be hidden. And a trembling hand is not the best help in such a matter. In this situation, waterjet cutting of porcelain stoneware helps out.
This is the most technologically advanced way of trimming, and it can only be carried out with special equipment in specialized workshops.
The method consists in supplying water mixed with abrasive microparticles through the thinnest (0.2-0.4 mm) nozzle under pressure. The computerized system is able to cut any, even the most complex, patterns in porcelain stoneware up to 200 mm thick. Jetting costs money, but sometimes it's irreplaceable.